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Archive for February, 2008

Joel Gott – 2005 California Cabernet Sauvignon

Posted by Gabe on February 14, 2008

Today’s selection is a 2005 Cabernet from Joel Gott. This one differs from most of the other Cabernet’s this week in that it’s a blend sourced from several diverse areas of Joel GottCalifornia. Fruit from Napa, Sonoma, Lodi & Lake County went into this wine. It was aged for 15 months in a combination of French and American oak. Just over 9,000 cases of this wine were produced and it retails at $17.

The diversity of fruit really helps make a wine of wide-ranging character and appeal. The first thing apparent is a bouquet of candied black cherries that just explode in your nose. The first couple sips of this wine are tart and tight but it opens up and smooths itself out very quickly. There is an absolute ton of dark, jammy fruit up front that leads to a huge rich mouth-filling mid-palate. The finish features some mocha notes that are underpinned by tingly white pepper. Joel Gott’s 2005 California Cabernet is lush and the finish is hefty and substantial. The wine has good acidity and is well balanced. The rich heady fruit makes it very much the New World wine that it is. It has easy drink-ability and sufficient complexity to make it interesting and a bit thought provoking. This wine will pair very well with BBQ and grilled meats in general. It also drinks very well on it’s own.

For $17 I found this wine to be a very good value. It over-delivers for the price-point. Definitely recommended for fans of fruit driven wines that envelope the palate. Joel Gott is probably best known for his Zinfandels. This Cabernet shows that his other offerings are well worth a look too.

Coming Tomorrow: A Single vineyard Cabernet from Wellington Vineyards.

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Martin & Weyrich – 2003 Cabernets

Posted by Gabe on February 13, 2008

Up today are two offerings from Martin & Weyrich of Paso Robles California. Admittedly, I am a huge fan of the Paso Robles region in general. I find that by and large there are many noteworthy wines of distinction coming out of this area. Not only do many of them stand out stylistically, they are also often available at bargain prices compared to wines of similar quality from say Napa or Sonoma.

Having started in 1981 Martin & Weyrich is amongst the earliest wineries from the area. Their portfolio reads like the United Nations of Wine. Italian and Spanish varietals are a large part of what they do right alongside Bordeaux offerings such as Cabernet Sauvignon. There are precious few U.S. Wineries that even make Tempranillo, let alone a dry Rosé of Tempranillo. That’s but one example of their diversity.

The first of their two Cabernet’s that I looked at is called “Etrusco.” 15% Sangiovese was blended in and it spent 18 months Etruscoin 50% new French oak. 3,100 cases of this wine were produced and it’s retail price is $22. I found this wine to need a solid hour in the decanter to really show all it’s true colors. Initially it had some tartness but that dissipated. The nose is full of black raspberry and earthy mushroom aromas. The first sip reveals toasted cherry flavors that follow through to the mid-palate along with substantial pepper and overall spice elements. The finish features some white pepper notes and clings to the back of the throat for a noticeable amount of time. “Etrusco” is well balanced with terrific acidity. It’s clear that the Sangiovese blended in really helps balance this wine and make it very approachable. This wine works very well with pasta and red sauce as well as fairly strong cheeses.

For $22 this wine is a certainly worth it in my opinion. What I most enjoyed about this wine is it’s combination of bright and dark fruit flavors which makes it very easy to drink. That said, this wine has quite a bit going including firm tannins, suggesting a respectable shelf life if stored properly.

The second Martin & Weyrich Cabernet offering is also from 2003. This one is however 100% varietal. Additionally it 2003 Cabernetspent two full years in 80% new French oak. Fruit was sourced exclusively at the Weyrich Family Ranch and production was limited to 500 cases. Retail price is $35.

Giving this wine time to breathe is even more essential than with the other selection. The nose offers up chocolate dipped raspberries. The first sip reveals significant tannins, earthiness and kirsch liquor. The mid-palate is big, round and mouth-filling with a ton more cherry fruit and mushroom laced earthiness. The finish is long and lingering with more berry fruit and substantial spice flavors that go on and on. While this wine is quite enjoyable now, especially after sufficient time breathing, it will improve with age, perhaps dramatically. I would anticipate the already present earthiness to become a greater focus as the fruit and tannins soften. The winery expects this wine to age ten years and that would not surprise me. I think that if you tuck a couple away now you’ll be pretty happy in 5 or so years when you pull one out for an occasion. At the moment this wine would be a great match for a steak or other equally hearty foods.

At $35 this wine is actually a bargain. No it’s probably not a wine most can have with leftovers on Wednesday night very often. But it is a tremendously good wine with excellent aging potential. Cabernet Sauvignon of equal quality from Napa would easily cost twice what this wine does. What I liked most about this wine was it’s range of flavors and complexity for the price.

Both Cabernets from Martin & Weyrich impressed me. They are distinct wines and each offers value in it’s price category.

Cabernet Sauvignon Week continues with a wine from Joel Gott coming up next. 

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Castillo de Molina Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2005

Posted by Gabe on February 12, 2008

Molina Today’s selection is the final Cabernet for the week in the value category. The Castillo de Molina Cabernet is from Curico Valley. This is estate fruit grown in Vina San Pedro’s vineyards. Castillo de Molina is one of Vina San Pedro’s second labels. For those not familiar with them, Vina San Pedro’s flagship Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the best coming out of Chile year in and year out. For my money it often runs neck and neck with the legendary Don Melchor.

This Cabernet spent a year in a combination of French and American oak barrels. 30% of the barrels used are new. The first whiff of this wine reveals vanilla and blueberries. After the wine opens up a bit some mocha and cherry notes also emerge from the nose.  The palate shows some toasty oak layered on top of berry flavors. This wine is very light bodied for a Cabernet. It features a firm acidity and the tannins present are soft and round. The Molina has no hard edges and certainly goes down smoothly. The finish features some spicy white pepper notes. The finish is a touch below average. This wine should be paired up with lighter food than the average Cabernet Sauvignon. Mild cheeses and roasted chicken are 2 items that come to mind which would work well.

I found previous vintages of this wine to be more impressive. The 2003 in particular was excellent in it’s price category. The retail price of this wine is around $11. If you shop around you can find it for a couple of dollars less. At around $9 it’s an OK buy. I would not expect this wine to improve in the bottle. However it should drink as it does now for 3-5 years. Without question, of the three value priced Cabernets I looked at this week, the Guenoc is hands down the best value.

Up Next: Two selections from Martin & Weyrich

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Guenoc – 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon

Posted by Gabe on February 11, 2008

The second selection for Cabernet week is from Guenoc in Lake County California. GuenocGuenoc is a sub label of Langtry Estate & Vineyards. Lake County is an up and coming area in California about 60 miles north of San Francisco. Some interesting wines at very fair prices are emerging from this area.

Guenoc’s 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon is blended with 8% Petit Verdot and 4% Petite Sirah. This wine spent 20 months in a combination of French and American oak barrels. The nose of the Guenoc Cabernet has lots of dark blackberry fruit and a touch of tobacco. It takes about 45 minutes in  the decanter for this wine to open up fully. Once it does the first sip reveals generous spice notes, especially pepper and more dark fruit characteristics. The finish is of medium length and there is some white pepper that coats the back of the throat as it closes out. It’s lighter bodied than a typical Cabernet which lends itself to pleasurable sipping on it’s own. I also expect this wine to go well with pasta and red sauce as well as a variety of cheeses.

Retail price on the Guenoc Cabernet Sauvignon is $12, putting it in the value category. A quick look at wine-searcher.com shows it can generally be found for under $10. It’s certainly a solid value in that price category. I’d expect this wine to have at least 5 years of life ahead of it.

Coming tomorrow: Castillo de Molina, the weeks final entry in the value category. 

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Santa Rita – 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva Maipo

Posted by Gabe on February 10, 2008

First up for Cabernet Sauvignon week is a value priced offering from Chile. Over the years I’ve had good luck in finding Santa Ritasome terrific values for my money with wines coming from South America. And Maipo Valley, where this selection hails from, has been a specific source of some of my favorite Chilean finds over time. In general I have often been able to find Chilean wines with a great earthiness to them, which is appealing to me.

The 2005 Santa Rita Cabernet Sauvignon was aged in a combination of American oak and stainless steal vats for 8 months. This one is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose features mostly black fruit characteristics along with subtler anise and a bit of clove. The first sip out of the bottle was tart and tight. The mid-palate has some dust and earth on it along with dark berry and soft tannins. Even after breathing the finish showed some tartness along with a few white pepper notes. That finish however is well below average in length. After the bottle is open for an hour or so and the initial tartness dissipates as do most of the other limited flavor notes this wine features. In fact, what little fruit it has seems to disappear rather quickly and be replaced by an unfortunate vegetal quality that isn’t appealing.

Santa Rita Cabernet Sauvignon Resevra has a retail price in the neighborhood of $12. If you look around though you can find it for about $9. Unfortunately with all the values coming out of Chile it’s very easy for me to say that this wine simply isn’t worth your money. Way too many South American producers are providing more bang for the buck in this category. This particular wine is one to avoid.

Coming tomorrow a review of a Guenoc Lake County California Cabernet Sauvignon

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Cabernet Sauvignon Week

Posted by Gabe on February 9, 2008

Tomorrow marks the beginning of Cabernet Sauvignon Week. Each day one or two cab’s will be looked at closely. The Etruscolist of wines scheduled for coverage include (not necessarily in this order):

Santa Rita – A Chilean Wine in the value category.

  

Guenoc – A California wine from emerging Lake County in the value category.

  

Wellington - A single vineyard wine from Sonoma County California.

  

Martin & Weyrich- Two selections from this venerable Paso Robles, California producer.

  

Mollydooker - A rising star from Australia in the $20 range.

  

Castillo de Molina - A Chilean producer with a value priced entry.

  

Joel Gott- A wine priced in the teens and sourced from several prime California AVA’s

 

Tara Bella- A single vineyard, limited production wine from Sonoma.

  

Mondavi- A look at what this seminal Napa winery is offering in Cabernet for around $20.

  

and more….

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Willie Nelson – Moment of Forever

Posted by Gabe on February 6, 2008

Moment of ForeverThat at almost 75 years of age, and close to 50 years after the release of his debut album, Willie Nelson still manages to release music is impressive. The fact that he can release an album as fresh and timeless sounding as Moment Of Forever in 2008 is astounding.

Willie’s career has taken on many phases, sounds and shapes. He’s been a legend so long now it’s hard to think of him as much else. Before he reached those heights though he had many other stops along the way. Outlaw is one of the titles he seemed to wear most proudly. It’s fitting then that he had Kenny Chesney produce this album. Chesney is one of the most successful acts in country today, yet at least by perception and reputation he seems to stand outside the Nashville mainstream and go his own way.

Moment Of Forever does a fine job of combining Willie Nelson originals with well chosen covers. Dave Matthews’ “Gravedigger” retains enough of the original versions funky vibe while simultaneously being unmistakably Willie. “Takin’ On Water” has some organ parts that bring to mind mid 70′s Stevie Wonder in their soulfulness. “You Don’t Think I’m Funny Anymore” with it’s old juke joint stomping feel to it is the best of the Nelson originals on the album. The closer though, a cover of Dylan’s “Gotta Serve Somebody,” delivered with stirring conviction is the definitive highlight of the album.

Chesney’s production is clean and streamlined. He doesn’t bog the album done with any unnecessary layers. He acts as a conduit to bring Willie and the songs directly through the speakers to the listener.

Detractors might point out that “Moment of Forever” isn’t quite ”Shotgun Willie” or “Phases and Stages.” And while that is true, “Moment of Forever” goes beyond what one can rightly expect from someone 50 years into a recording career.

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Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén – Hemar 2005 Crianza

Posted by Gabe on February 5, 2008

The final selection for Spanish Wine Week is the 4th wine I’ve looked at in the Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén  portfolio. Hemar CrianzaAs with the previous three it was produced from fruit sourced in Ribera Del Duero. Hemar’s older vineyards at 80 years old are also at an average elevation of 2,730 feet and the soil is quite stony in nature.

The 2005 Hemar Crianza spent 13 months in French oak followed by 9 months in bottle before it was released. As with the other wines I tasted in the Hemar line the Crianza straddles the line of New World fruitiness and Old World Elegance. This wine needs about 30 minutes of breathing time before it’s fully ready to come out and play. Once it has had that time though it reveals itself nicely. The nose gives of an earthy mushroom muskiness that puts me in the mind of Burgundian Pinot Noir. The mid-palate is an absolute buffet of dark berry fruit with underlying notes of vanilla and a hint of clove. Hints of subtle dark chocolate hit the back of the throat and tease it with their richness. Hemar Crianza is somewhere between medium and full bodied. It’s incredibly rich and full in the mouth but doesn’t overwhelm. The finish is long, lingering and well above average. More of the earthiness that was apparent in the nose as well as some peppery notes come out in the finish. The acidity and balance of this wine are perfectly in check. This wine will go well with an assortment of grilled meats and other fairly hearty fare.

Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén 2005 Crianza retails at just over $30. For that price I feel you’d certainly be getting fair value for your money. This wine is drinking well now. I’d anticipate it to evolve favorably for a couple of years at drink well until at least the end of 2012.

Imported by The Ravensvale Group.

This concludes Spanish Wine Week. Look for Cabernet Sauvignon Week starting on Sunday!

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Barón de Ley – 2001 Reserva

Posted by Gabe on February 4, 2008

With so many wines to cover, Spanish Wine Week has crept into a second week. Today’s selection, a reserva, brings me back to the Baron de leyRioja region. The Barón de Ley 2001 Reserva was aged for 20 months in new American oak. After that it spent a full 24 months aging in bottle.

This first thing the nose of this wine gave off was a strong whiff of menthol. I didn’t find that very pleasant but it was also accompanied by some subtle cherry. The initial sip was very tart. This wine needs to be decanted for at least an hour. Once that hour passes the menthol notes dissipate and the cherry come out front and center. Accompanying the sour cherry notes, which are fairly typical of Rioja, is plenty of out front oak. As time goes on the oak fades from the forefront. The mid-plate features more cherry accompanied by some vanilla and spice notes.  The wine has tremendous acidity. Not so much that it’s distracting but it is ever-present and should be considered when looking for a dish to pair this wine with. The finish brings out some white pepper and a touch of earthiness. However for a wine that retails at around $22 the finish is below average in length and frankly unimpressive. Overall the wine doesn’t have nearly enough complexity to justify it’s price tag.

Once Barón de Ley 2001 Reserva opens up it’s decent but underwhelming. For $22 this wine is overpriced. If it retailed for half the price it would be much easier to overlook it’s shortcomings. However as it stands it’s incredibly easy to do much better for that money with wines from Rioja. Therefore there is no way I can recommend this wine.

Imported by Frederick Wildman and Sons.

Spanish Wine Week concludes tomorrow with another selction from Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén. 

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Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén – Hemar 2004 Llanum

Posted by Gabe on February 3, 2008

2004 LlanumToday’s selection is the third of four from Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén. All four are from the Ribera del Duero region. The 2004 Llanum is a limited production. Less than 550 cases of this wine were produced and it was sourced completely from 80 year old vines.

Hemar 2004 Llanum was aged for 15 months in a combination of French and American oak barrels. This wine is very tight out of the bottle. I’d recommend ninety minutes to two hours decanting time. Once it opens up though, it really sings. The huge nose reveals mulled spice, candied berries and a hint of toasty oak. The mid-palate features loads of dark plum and berry fruit along with cassis notes, a hint of espresso bean and an undercurrent of bacon fat that hits the back of the throat and sticks there. Llanum is incredibly rich, self-indulgent and mouth-filling. The finish which is above average and impressively long has some dark chocolate notes, more spice and continued big and dark fruit. Along with the rich jammy berry fruit Llanum has excellent acidity that creates a very well balanced wine. The fact that Llanum is sourced exclusively from 80 year old vines shows itself in the concentration and richness of this wine.

Hemar 2004 Llanum is a perfect match for hearty fare. I found it to go very well with a Sausage and Lentil stew from Umbria. As impressive as this wine is now I expect it to age and improve. Laying it down for two to three years should bring out even more complexity. I’d expect it to drink well for at least five to eight years after that. The retail on this wine is between $60 and $65. It’s well worth that. This is not a Tuesday night with pizza wine, but it’s a perfect special occasion bottle. Sock a couple away now and you’ll be pretty happy when you pop them open for Christmas 2010.

No two ways about it, Hemar 2004 Llanum is a tremendous and impressive bottle of wine.  The year is young but I’ve had the chance to taste several hundred wines already, some of them priced well more than twice as much as Llanum. This is easily the best one I’ve had so far in 2008.

Imported by The Ravensvale Group. 

Next up in  Spanish Wine Week is a selection from Rioja.

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