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Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

Archive for September, 2008

Rodney Strong Vineyards – 2006 Knotty Vines Zinfandel

Posted by Gabe on September 10, 2008

A couple of weeks back I looked at several wines from Rodney Strong Vineyards in Sonoma. Today The 12 Days of Zin checks in with them to see how they handle this quintessentially California varietal.

The 2006 Knotty Vines Zinfandel is 99% varietal with 1% Petite Sirah blended in. fruit was sourced from Alexander Valley (83%) and Russian River Valley (17%). The Russian River vines date back to 1904. The wine was aged in American (71%) and French (29%) oak for 10 months. The suggested retail price for this wine is $20, though it can often be found for about $5 less than that.

A touch of reticence immediately out of the bottle is overcome quickly and within 30 minutes this wine is ready to party. Jam laden berry notes and vanilla fill the nose of this wine. Throughout the palate a solid fruit core is underscored by a persistent undercurrent of spice. The combination of these two together is the wines hallmark. The back of the mid-palate has a touch of a bacon fat note on which leads into a finish filled with white pepper, nutmeg and assorted more subtle spices and lingering berry fruit notes.

What I like most about this selection is that it’s a Zinfandel with finesse and elegance but also counterbalanced by some zippy jam laden fruit up front to provide immediate appeal. This wine has sufficient acidity and is nicely balanced. Widely available and attractively priced this is a good bet as a go to zin any night of the week. Drink it in the short term.

Up Next: The 12 Days of Zin Continues!

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Michael David – 2006 Seven Deadly Zins

Posted by Gabe on September 9, 2008

The next wine I’m looking at for The 12 Days of Zin is from Lodi. Zinfandels from this region often tend to be big jammy blockbusters. This is a style of Zin that can be as popular with some crowds as it is reviled by others. Personally, when they’re well made and I’m in the mood, I like a blockbuster in your face Zinfandel as much as the next guy.  Michael David Family of Wines has been making several wines with catchy names and packaging that are priced right for everyday drinking. Today I’ll look at their current vintage of Seven Deadly Zins, which happens to be the first release of theirs I became aware of several years back.

The Michael Davd Family of Wines 2006 Seven Deadly Zins is a blend of Old Vine Lodi Zinfandel from seven different vineyards. Small amounts of Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot were also added to the blend. The suggested retail price for this wine is $17. Look around or check wine-searcher and you’ll see it’s often available for closer to $13.

Plum, blueberry, and blackberry fruit fill the nose and palate of this wine. If you could drink wild berry pie, this is probably what it would taste like. As with past vintages the 2006 version absolutely leaps out of the glass when you pour it. While it’s hugely expressive immediately,  some air allows it to show it’s layers. Lingering fruit and spice carry through a persistent finish. From start to finish this wine is big, mouth-filling, rich and incredibly smooth and silky.

If you’re a fan of big, unbridled, jam laden Zins that speak of their Lodi heritage you’re going to have a tough time doing better Seven Deadly Zins, especially when you factor in bang for the buck. If you’re looking for a Zinfandel that leans towards restrained, this wild child of a Zin might not be for you. An excellent choice to bring to a BBQ or other large gathering. Both the price and the explosive flavor are sure to please the masses.

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Orfila Vineyards & Winery – 2005 Zinfandel

Posted by Gabe on September 9, 2008

The 12 Days of Zin Continues with what will be its Southern most stop. Orfila Vineyards and Winery is a San Diego based operation. Orfila Winery was purchased close to 20 years ago by Alejandro Orfila and his wife. He is a former Argentine Ambassador to the US. His General Manager and Winemaker at Orfila is Leon Santoro. Santoro brought a wide range of experience with him. His past winemaking includes stops at Napa Valley’s Quail Ridge, Stags Leap Cellars and Louis Martini Winery. Together Orfila and Santoro share a stated goal to prove that excellent wine can be produced in the Southern part of California. Orfila has a 70 acre Estate with 40 of those under vine.

The 2005 Orfila Winery & Vineyards “Gold Rush” Zinfandel was sourced from the Lopez Vineyards in Rancho Cucamonga. The suggested retail price for this wine is $24.

The nose of this 2005 Zin from Orfila is filled with the aromas of fresh summer berry pie. I found the wine to be slightly tight out of the bottle. Decanting or letting it open a bit in your glass is recommended. Once it opens up a ton of cherry and subtle wild strawberry notes come out in droves. While this selection is rich and full in the mid-palate it leans towards medium bodied within the world of Zinfandel. Black pepper and light earth notes fill the finish which has good length. I had this with London broil and it complemented it quite well.

What I liked most about this particular Zinfandel is its combination of rich flavor, countered by smooth, easy drinkability. A nice selection from Orfila Vineyards and Winery.

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Eberle – 2006 Zinfandel

Posted by Gabe on September 8, 2008

The first stop today during the 12 Days of Zin is Paso Robles. As I’ve mentioned in the past I feel Zinfandel is one of the varietals that tends to really thrive in the Paso Robles area. With a couple of exceptions Zins from this area that have most impressed my tend towards the bigger, jammy style. Gary Eberle who founded the namesake winery has a history of wine-making in the region that precedes it even being an officially recognized appellation. Their broad array of offerings include Rhone and Bordeaux varietals as well as several other wines such as Zinfandel that aren’t part of either classification.

The 2006 Eberle Winery Zinfandel was made with fruit sourced from both the Steinbeck and Wine Bush vineyards. The split was an even 50/50. This wine spent 16 months aging in 20% new American oak.  Just over 2,800 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price for this wine is $24.

The first thing that is apparent about the Eberle Zinfandel is that it needs to breathe. Before decanting it didn’t really give much. After having had the chance to get some air it really started to shine. Plum, blueberry, and black raspberry all come out in the nose. From the entry point through the mid-palate there is plenty of medium bright fruit accompanied by a sour cherry undertone that gives this offering a very unique and appealling edge. Blackberry pie spice, as well as white pepper and earth make up the lingering finish. This wine will be an excellent match for almost any type of BBQ. I had it with slow cooked, pulled pork and it worked marvelously. A nice little value.

This wine shares elements of both big jam laden Zins as well as those made in a more restrained style. It has a fine acidity that helps balance it. For maximum pleasure I recommend drinking this one over the next 2-4 years.

Up Next: The 12 Days of Zin Continues!

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Cakebread Cellars – 2005 Zinfandel

Posted by Gabe on September 7, 2008

The 12 Days of Zin continues with a stop at Napa Valley’s Cakebread Cellars. Their story is one of a true family business that starts with Jack and Dolores Cakebread and continues through their sons and extended family. When a lot of people think of Cakebread Cellars the Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc come to mind. This isn’t surprising as they have both been heralded and scored highly in various publications for many years. Personally I’ve always been a bigger fan of their reds. Thus I’m happy to include their Zinfandel in this series.

The Cakebread Cellars 2005 Zinfandel is 100% varietal. All of the fruit is from the Lake County, Red Hills appellation. Three different Zinfandel clones were aged separately for 9 months. At that point the final blend was put together and the wine spent another 9 months in 35% new French oak barrels. The suggested retail price for this wine is $41.

This 2005 Zin has berry, bramble and vanilla on the nose. It comes out of the gate a little tight and decanting for an hour or so is recommended. Once it’s had that chance to open up its layers really come out. This is a thick, rich, opulent and mouth-filling example of Zinfandel.  Chocolate covered cherry notes emerge on the entry and carry though the palate. Plum, blackberry and other dark fruit underscore the chocolate notes which remain persistent throughout. Both white and black peppers come out on the finish, accompanied by subtler oak notes. A firm tannic structure is evident as well.

What I like best about this wine is that it’s got a really solid, even keeled palate that never seems to fade. It carries solid, rich notes throughout the wine. This is an example of a bigger, riper Zin, with some jam fruit elements. However it’s balanced and structured enough that it will not only drink well and hold for several years but will likely improve in the short term.

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Papapietro Perry – 2005 Zinfandel

Posted by Gabe on September 6, 2008

The third day of The 12 Days of Zin marks another stop at a winery in the Dry Creek Valley. 2008 marks 10 years since the first vintage of Papapietro Perry. Interestingly they specialize in both Pinot Noir and Zinfandel. Each is a red grape made in an incredibly wide array of styles. Both happen to be favorite varietals of mine and I tend to cover examples of each whenever  I have the opportunity. Whereas with Pinot Noir I’m strongly in favor of those made in a classic Burgundian style, I’m much more open to more divergent styles of Zin.

The Papapietro Perry 2005 Pauline’s Vineyard Zinfandel is 100% single vineyard varietal. It was aged for 13 months in a combination of 2 and 3 year old French Oak. 390 cases of this wine were produced and it retails for $36.

Decanting this wine is highly recommended. At first blush, out of bottle it’s closed up and tight. Once it opens though it tells a far more expressive story. Red raspberry and earthy bramble fill the nose along with subtler but present blueberry notes. While the nose has jam aspects the palate rides the line. All the berry fruit is kept in check by fine acidity and a solid tannic structure. Dark plum notes emerge at the back end of the mid-palate, leading the way to the finish. Vanilla, nutmeg, white pepper and dust notes fill the lingering finish. That dust leaves the final impression and is an indicator of it’s Dry Creek heritage. This wine will be a nice match for pepper steak, london broil or a burger topped with strong cheese.

What I like best about this Zinfandel is it’s impressive structure and clear ability to age. This should improve over the next year or so and drink well for a minimum of 5 years after that, likely longer. While $36 may not be a wine you have every night with a burger, not every Zin will improve with age, not to mention impress with it’s balance and overall finesse.

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Fritz Winery – A Couple of 2005 Zinfandels

Posted by Gabe on September 5, 2008

The 12 Days of Zin continues with what will be the first of several stops in the Dry Creek Valley. Quite a few varietals thrive in this area of Sonoma, but I find Zinfandels from this area seem to be particularly impressive in general. Today’s selections are from Fritz Winery. They produce approximately 12,000 cases annually of wine from grapes they grow in Dry Creek and Estate Vineyards in the Russian River Valley. I’m looking at both their Estate Zinfandel and an Estate Reserve Zinfandel today.

The 2005 Estate Zinfandel is 100% varietal and all Estate fruit. The wine spent 6 months in a combination of French and American oak, 40% of it was new. Just under 2,800 cases of this selection were released and the suggested retail price is $25.

The first thing that’s apparent is this wine has a beautiful cherry apple red hue. Bright cherry, vanilla and underlying wild strawberry fruit are featured in the nose of the 2005 Estate Zinfandel from Fritz. 45 minutes or so in the decanter or glass serves this wine well and allows it open nicely. Once it does it shows itself to be medium bodied (within the world of Zins) and choc full of cherry and spice flavors. This wine is smooth and easy drinking while filling the plate with nutmeg spice and earth on a gentle, lingering finish. The spice notes are the most prominent and persistent throughout this wines palate. While this wine will stand up to some ribs, it’s balanced enough to be a welcome match for a dish of pasta as well.

Compared to the Estate Zinfandel, only a tiny amount of the Fritz Winery 2005 Estate Reserve was produced. In fact, only 278 cases in total. The reserve has a suggested retail price of $40.

What’s immediately obvious about the reserve is how much darker it is in color than the estate. That deeper hue comes through immediately. The nose is filled with blackberry, vanilla, cedar and an underlying touch of eucalyptus. Taking the first sip of this wine I found it, not surprisingly, to be a little tight straight out of the bottle. Once it opened up sour cherry and black pepper notes came out prominently on the entry point. From the mid-palate through the finish more deep, dark fruit notes are buttressed by terrific white pepper, nutmeg and cherry pie spice notes. This wine has excellent acidity and is impeccably balanced. It’s a bigger, bolder wine than the Estate and should be paired with heartier foods that will best complement it.

I tasted the reserve again after it had been open for a full 24 hours. In that time period it had blossomed further and was even more expressive than the day before. I’d expect it to age effortlessly for at least a decade.

What I liked best about these wines is that they’re each fine values in their respective price categories. They’re both made in a more classic style of Zinfandel. Both have some jam fruit elements but tend towards restraint balance and the ability to age.

Up Next: The 12 Days of Zin Continues

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Barra of Mendocino – 2004 Estate Zinfandel

Posted by Gabe on September 4, 2008

The second selection during the 12 Days of Zin, takes us up to Mendocino. Barra of Mendocino is a family owned winery that exclusively uses Estate fruit in its wines. They have 175 organically farmed acres under vine. Petite Sirah, Chardonnay and Muscat Cannelli are just of few of the varietals outside of Zinfandel that they produce. Their history is a long one, founder Charlie Barra has been farming grapes since the mid 40′s. In 1954 he purchased the land the vineyards are part of.

The 2004 Barra of Mendocino Zinfandel is a brand new release. This wine is 100% varietal. The wine was aged in a combination of new (20%), one year (40%) and three year (40%) French oak. 562 cases of this wine were produced and the retail price of this selection is $20.

The Barra of Mendocino 2004 Estate Zinfandel is impressive from the word go. That said, letting it breathe is recommended for it to spread it’s wings and fully soar.  Blackberry jam, cassis and vanilla notes leap out of the glass and form a lively and exciting nose. From the first sip it’s filled with plum notes underscored by subtle cinnamon. This wine has a rich round, smooth, mouth-feel. The entire palate is full of big, firm fruit notes. The finish, which is lengthy enough to be impressive, features lots of spice in the form of black pepper as well as mocha notes that really emerge in a big way once this wine opens up, bringing to mind chocolate covered blackberries.

What I like best about this Zinfandel is how well balanced it is, featuring excellent acidity. The four years of aging before release seem to have suited this wine very well. It nicely layered with good fruit and spice components and several layers of complexity. Harmonious is the word that comes to mind most when reflecting on this selection. As indicated above, less than 600 cases of this wine were produced. If you’re a fan of well made Zinfandel that will complement a wide array of food, this is one to get your hands on. Kudos to Barra of Mendocino.

Up Next: The 12 Days of Zin Continues

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Valley of the Moon Winery – 2005 Zinfandel

Posted by Gabe on September 4, 2008

The first wine I’m looking at during The 12 Days of Zin is a widely available release from Sonoma County. Valley of The Moon Winery is based in Glen Ellen California. They produce an array of varietal offerings, as well as several proprietary blends. While the winery has been in existence since the late 1800′s, a 1997 revitalization and modernization found it recommitted as a current wine making house.

The 2005 Valley of the Moon Zinfandel is 95% varietal with 5% Petite Sirah blended in. 36% of the fruit comes from Dry Creek Valley with the remainder coming from Sonoma Valley in general. The wine was aged for 16 months in a combination of French (60%) and American (40%) oak barrels. Just over 10,000 cases of this wine were made and the suggested retail price is $16.

Tons of jammy fruit in the form of blackberry and plum notes fill the nose. I found this wine to be pretty accessible right out of the bottle. That said, 30 minutes in the decanter took it to a more open and expressive place. The palate is filled with an avalanche of sweet berry fruit from the first sip through the finish. Blackberry pie notes in particular come out strongly in the mid-palate. Vanilla, spice and earth are the main components of a finish that’s above average in length.

What I like best about this Zinfandel is that is successfully straddles the stylistic line. Up front it’s jam laden with tons of fruit but that’s balanced by solid acidity and capped with a solid finish. The Petite Sirah that’s blended in adds backbone, structure and a dollop of deep, dark fruit undertones.

While this wine retails for $16, it can often be found for a few dollars less. In its price range this is a good wine and nice value, offering solid varietal character and sufficient complexity.

Up Next In the 12 Days of Zin: Barra of Mendocino 2004 Zinfandel

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12 Days of Zinfandel

Posted by Gabe on September 3, 2008

Coming up next is what’s going to total out to 24 days of Zinfandel coverage. The first 12 Days will start next and continue through the middle of the month. Then a few other wines will be covered followed by 12 MORE Days of Zin towards the end of the month. Over 40 Zinfandel’s will be covered ranging from commonly available wines produced in large quantities to small productions from boutique and medium sized wineries. Many different growing areas in California will be represented. So strap yourself in and grab a glass of ZIN!

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