Gabe's View

Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

Archive for August, 2009

Lucas & Lewellen Vineyards – “Silver King” Port

Posted by Gabe on August 9, 2009

ll-portI drink dessert wine pretty regularly. Most often it’s Tawny or Late Bottled Port from Portugal. After that I’m always curious to taste the different styles of Ports and Dessert wines being made in California. When it comes to the Golden State I most often think of Late Harvest Zinfandel. That style seems to be the most ubiquitous expression in California; not surprising when you consider how much Zin there is. The last few years though I’ve run across a solid handful of folks making Dessert Wine or Port with Merlot. I was a bit dubious at first, but then I had the chance to taste a couple and I found there are some interesting offerings out there. Today I’ll look at one from Lucas & Lewellen.

The Lucas & Lewellen “Silver King” Port is produced using Merlot grapes sourced at their Los Alamos Vineyards. To that juice, neutral grape spirits are added. 312 cases of this wine were produced. It’s available in 375 ml bottles for $20.

As soon as I poured this wine my senses were engulfed with deep, dark, cherry pie aromas. Chocolate dipped fruitcake notes were plentiful throughout the palate along with bountiful black cherry characteristics that kept resonating. The finish of this Port had a touch of perceptible heat. In this particular case it worked really well and provided hints of Cherry Liqueur. That finish coated the back of my throat with a thick honey-like consistency in it’s mouth-feel. This wine could easily have been dessert on its own. I paired it with dark chocolate covered biscotti and found that to be a ridiculously delicious match.

What I like best about this particular port is that it’s unique. While the number of dessert wines made from Merlot is increasing it’s still a small segment of the whole. The fact that it stands out from the pack is reason enough to seek it out so you can have a different experience. The main reason though is that it’s well made and delicious.

Please take a moment to vote for my blog.

Posted in Dessert Wines, Merlot, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Martin Ray Winery – 2005 Synthesis Cabernet Sauvignon

Posted by Gabe on August 8, 2009

syntA winery the size of Martin Ray makes many releases with large, sometimes huge case productions. So it’s always interesting and informative to also look at what they’re doing on a smaller scale. Today I’ll look at such a selection from them.

The Martin Ray 2005 Synthesis Cabernet Sauvignon is made from fruit sourced in three locations. The vast majority of the fruit is from Napa Valley; 67% from Diamond Mountain and 23% from Stags Leap District. The remaining 10% was sourced in the Sonoma Mountain Appellation. This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Oak aging was accomplished with 34 months in French barrels. A tiny 103 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $75.

It’s important to mention immediately that this wine really needs to be decanted if you’re going to drink it any time soon. An hour really helps, two hours would be even better. Once you’ve given it that time to aerate, this Cabernet is going to really be ready to perform. The nose is very expressive and filled with aromas of ripe summer berries, underscored by hints of vanilla. The Diamond Mountain fruit which represents more than two thirds of this cuvée really shines through with purity and intensity of flavor through the palate. Immense layers of dark berry, plum and bakers chocolate notes are accompanied by flourishes of black olive. Copious earth, black tea, mineral notes and black pepper emerge in a very nice and lingering finish. This wine has firm tannins that soften as the wine evolves, and solid acidity.

By combining fruit from three distinct parts of Napa and Sonoma Martin Ray has created a Cabernet blend with diverse elements that come together nicely as one. While this wine is delicuous now I expect it to evolve over the next 8 or so years and drink well for several after that. I went back to this Cabernet after it had been open for a full 24 hours and found it to be even tastier and more expressive than it was on the first day.

Please take a moment to vote for my blog.

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Tasting At Regusci Winery

Posted by Gabe on August 5, 2009

regusciThe Regusci Family has a long tradition of wine-making in Napa Valley. It dates all the way back to 1932 in fact. However the current incarnation of Regusci Winery in Stags Leap didn’t open its doors to the public until 1998. That was a couple of years after their first crush as a reborn winery.

I’d visited their tasting room a few times before, but not for several years. This trip I decided to make stopping there a priority so I could see what they’re up to these days. In general they offer two tasting flights, Current Release ($15) and Heritage Wines ($25). If you take the second flight the first is also included. The current release flight offers three wines and the Heritage Flight adds two, though they often throw a bonus in somewhere.

The Regusci tasting roomhas a warm, inviting and somewhat rustic atmosphere. The folks behind the tasting bar are very friendly and welcoming; they also know the Regusci Wines inside out. That said they’re very good at not shoving too much knowledge down your throat too soon. In some tasting rooms it seems the person wants to tell you what you’re going to taste or experience before you take your first sip. This of course puts that suggestion in your head and you’re more likely to think you taste it, even if you don’t. The folks at Regusci don’t do this. In my opinion they carefully and deftly balance the line; offering as much information as they find each taster is looking for. Questions are answered cheerfully. They pipe in with their opinions when you ask, making it clear just because it’s how they feel, it’s not necessarily how someone on the other side of the counter will. And while that may seem like a simple thing, and it should be, it’s often not the case in some tasting rooms.

Stags Leaps District wines, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon, can be wildly expensive. That’s another area in which I think Regusci Winery does a rally nice job. While they do have some more expensive offerings the current Stags Leap releases I tasted were good values. Their 2006 Merlot is a well structured wine that demands attention. It’s loaded with rich berry fruit and dusty layers of chocolate and spice. While $40 might not be everyday drinking for most people this is a serious Merlot. Their Estate Cabernet Sauvignon sold for $48 and was equally impressive. Cherry fruit notes were most prominent. The finish was long and persistent. Cabernet Sauvignon of equivalent quality from Stags Leap is often far more expensive than this offering from Regusci.

Their Heritage Wines which are more expensive were also interesting to taste. The 2006 Patriarch is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (64%), Merlot (27%) and Cabernet Franc (9%). This is an intense and immense wine. It’s loaded with berry flavors, good tannic structure and layers of earth. This one had me craving a T-Bone. This offering sells for $80 and should simply get better with some time in the bottle. I wouldn’t drink it for 5 years and then I’d enjoy it sometime over the following 6 or 7. This would be a good choice to tuck away for a special occasion or holiday dinner somewhere down the road.

In total I tasted 6 wines at Regusci during my recent trip. Each of them was well made and pretty tasty. The ones I mentioned above stood out most to me. The Merlot was my overall favorite. If you like Stags Leap District wines Regusci Winery is a really nice, as well as, casual stop. They’re open daily and no appointment is necessary for a tasting. Being right on Silverado Trail they’re quick and easy to find too. Well worth some time.

Please take a moment to vote for my blog.

Posted in Winery Visit | Leave a Comment »

Visiting Gargiulo Vineyards

Posted by Gabe on August 4, 2009

Whenever I travel to Napa or other Wine Regions I’m always looking to check gargiuloout producers I haven’t visited before. Often times I get recommendations when I’m out and about tasting. What I find really interesting is that just about every trip there is one place that seems to have some undercurrent of buzz about it. No matter where I go or who I speak to eventually it seems that folks get around to mentioning a specific winery. This trip I lost track of how many folks suggested I check out Gargiulo Vineyards. The people making the suggestion ranged from individuals at other wineries to folks I tasted side by side with elsewhere. After a couple of days of hearing about them, the groundswell building in my head convinced me to go see what they had going on; so I called and scheduled an appointment.

Gargiulo is a boutique family owned Napa Valley Estate Winery. They produce 3,500 cases of wine, primarily from two separate Estate Vineyards in Oakville; one at their Winery site right on Oakville Crossroad near Silverado Trail and one on Money Road. In addition to Bordeaux Varietals they have Sangiovese and Pinot Grigio planted as well.

When I arrived at Gargiulo Vineyards I was immediately taken by the lovely and welcoming grounds. I made my way to the tasting room which was incredibly comfortable and warm, with rustic flourishes. In one corner a handful of guitars stood on their stands. Apparently everyone who knows how to play is welcome to pick one up and strum. All of these things come together to form a tranquil space to spend some time and yes, taste wine in.

The first wine we were poured was the Rosato di Sangiovese. This dry Rosé was refreshing and an excellent way to get things going. Tastings at Gargiulo are by appointment. Once everyone who was going to be in my tasting group settled in we sat around a nice large square table with ultra comfortable chairs. We were then led through our wines by a member of the Gargiulo team. The second wine we tasted was accompanied by a dish of morsels for each guest to munch on. Olives, cheese, nuts and more made up the treats on hand. That second wine Aprile, was my overall favorite. This offering, named for the owner’s daughter is a blend of Sangiovese (97%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (3%). They call this their Super Oakville Blend which is a nod to the Super Tuscan blends that inspired it. What impressed me about this offering was its combination of complexity, length, drink-ability and good acidic structure. This is a classic food wine and I was craving a dish of pasta.

After that we tasted a Merlot and several Cabernet Sauvignons. I’m happy to report that there wasn’t a clunker in the bunch. Each wine was a fine example of Oakville fruit and the varietal in question. I was particularly impressed with the Merlot which was made with structure, length and most importantly true varietal character. When they are well made Merlots appeal to people who like Cabernet Sauvignon. The Money Road Ranch offering from Gargiulo is such a Merlot. The Cabernets were nice too and each had the stuffing to age for a number of years. Each of the Gargiulo wines I tasted was well made and would match well with typically appropriate cuisine.

After we’d gone through all the wines we took a tour of the grounds and the winemaking facilities. This being Oakville, Gargiulo has some pretty well known neighbors surrounding them; Screaming Eagle is amongst them.

In addition to the tasting I attended Gargiulo offers some other options. At least one of them includes Lunch prepared by owner Jeff Gargiulo. I found the wines, surroundings, people and overall tasting experience at Gargiulo to be an excellent and impressive one. More and more wineries are doing sit down tastings by appointment these days. Some of them work very well and some fall flat, the one at Gargiulo is a keeper.

Please take a moment to vote for my blog.

Posted in Wine, Winery Visit | Leave a Comment »

Visiting Terra Valentine

Posted by Gabe on August 3, 2009

terravalentineOne of the great things about visiting Wine Country is the number of stories and history each Winery has. While these vary greatly, one of particular interest is that of Terra Valentine. While that winery as an entity only dates back to 1999, their facility has a much longer and pretty fascinating back story.

The building that is the Terra Valentine Winery as well as a guest cottage on their property were both built by original owner Fred Aves. Over many years he built everything by hand. This included stained glass windows, doors, cast metal stairs, a multitude of stonework and much more. Visiting Terra Valentine is a fascinating insight into the vision of an iconoclast and his singular drive to create something unique. Fred Aves did make wine at the winery which he called Yverdon, for a number of years. But he was a reclusive fellow and didn’t really share his craft or his creations with many.

About a decade ago Angus and Margaret Wurtele discovered the property up for sale after Fred had passed on. They purchased it and spent time cleaning it up and adding modern winery equipment. While they make a number of other wines the focus at Terra Valentine is on Cabernet Sauvignon. They make several single vineyard designates both from the property the winery sits on and another Spring Mountain District parcel the Wurtele’s own.

Each of the Cabernet’s I tried was delicious and well made. Amore, their blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon really stood out to me. It was a classic food wine that paired very well with the bites of food served with the tasting.

Visiting Terra Valentine requires an advance appointment. They have several standard tour times per day. Outside of that they do their best to accommodate visitor’s needs. Once you’re there you get a tour of the facility while tasting the first wine. The day I went it was a lovely Viognier. Once the tour is over you proceed to a spacious tasting room. There at grand table you sit down and go through quite a few of their other wines. As I mentioned above these are paired with some small bites to nibble on. Overall you spend a bit over an hour there. You’ll get to tour a fascinating and beautiful facility with a unique history and taste some really nice wines. This is an excellent way to spend some time in my book. When you do go, give yourself plenty of time to get there. The road up Spring Mountain is windy and takes longer than the actual distance might seem to indicate.

Please take a moment to vote for my blog.

Posted in Wine, Winery Visit | Leave a Comment »

 
Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 236 other followers