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Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

Archive for August, 2010

Paul Dolan Vineyards – 2008 Chardonnay / 2008 Sauvignon Blanc

Posted by Gabe on August 14, 2010

More and more often I find myself gravitating to taste a larger number of wines from Mendocino when I can. One producer that sticks out in a good way is Paul Dolan Vineyards. They’re Organic and Biodynamic and fully embrace everything that is natural in winemaking. Today I’ll look at two of their white wines.

The Paul Dolan Vineyard 2008 Chardonnay was produced entirely from Mendocino County fruit. Fruit was sourced from two vineyards, each planted in the early 1970’s. This wine is 100% varietal. 20% of the wine underwent oak barrel aging for 8 months; the remaining 80% was aged in stainless steel. 3,080 cases of this offering were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $18.

Aromas of Orchard fruit, underscored by white pepper characteristics light up the nose of this 2008 Chardonnay. Bartlett pear, pineapple and light mango flavors are on display through this incredibly fresh and lively wine. Hints of mineral, copious spice notes and a dollop of cream all emerge on the even-keeled and crisp finish of this selection.

The bottom line on this Chardonnay is that it’s clean, crisp and loaded with fresh fruit flavors. In other words this is what Chardonnay tastes like when it’s grown right and the winemaker allows its natural charms to shine. Drink this beauty over the next two years to get the most out of its charming flavors. This is a very impressive selection in its price range.

The Paul Dolan Vineyards 2008 Sauvignon Blanc was produced using fruit from two neighboring vineyards located at the headwaters of the Russian River in Mendocino County. This offering is 100% Sauvignon Blanc; it was both fermented and aged in stainless steel. 1,260 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $18.

Hints of Vanilla Bean intertwine a bevy of citrus aromas in the bold and dynamic nose of this 2008 Sauvignon Blanc. Zesty lemon sorbet flavors through the palate are accompanied by spices and a touch of grass. The finish is lean and mineral laden; it features crisp acidity. The Paul Dolan Sauvignon Blanc leans towards the austere side of this varietal, making it a wine that truly excels when well paired with lighter foods.

This Sauvignon Blanc stands out from the pack; its favors are individual and do an excellent job of expressing a sense of place. If you care about naturally grown wines that aren’t over manipulated, the Paul Dolan portfolio should be on your short list.

Posted in Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Trapiche – 2008 Broquel Malbec

Posted by Gabe on August 12, 2010

Malbec has entered a phase in this country were most wine drinkers are well aware of it and more than likely have also tasted it. Many people drink it regularly as it’s become a go to choice for a lot of folks. And with it’s easy to like characteristics it’s easy to see why. But most of the Malbec people are drinking leans towards one style; wines whose most prominent feature is juicy up front fruit. Nothing wrong with that if you like it and there are bargains to be bad. But there are many other faces to Malbec. Today I’ll look at one from Trapiche.

The Trapiche 2008 Broquel Malbec was made from fruit sourced at vineyards with 25 years of age on them. These vines sit between 900 and 1,200 meters above sea level. This wine is 100% Malbec. Fermentation took place in concrete vats over a period of 25 days. Barrel aging followed over 15 months in a combination of French and American oak. This wine has a suggested retail price of $18.

Boysenberry, blackberry and a wisp of vanilla are all apparent in the slightly reticent nose of this 2008 Malbec from Mendoza. There fruit flavors throughout the palate also lean towards the darker end of the spectrum with continued blackberry as well as black raspberry. Mineral, earth and a solid wallop of black pepper are all part of the finish along with dark, dusty baker’s chocolate notes. This wine has soft, lush tannins and solid acidity.

This Malbec from Trapiche is more austere than the average with tighter structure. While this wine is delicious today it’ll continue to be very enjoyable for the next 3-5 years. A nicely made Malbec.

Posted in Malbec, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Rodney Strong Vineyards – 2008 Chalk Hill Chardonnay

Posted by Gabe on August 9, 2010

Rodney Strong Vineyards is a dependable name in wine. They’re both one of the flagship brands of Sonoma County and a large winery that produces a wide array of wines in many different price points and styles. The bottom line for me is that their releases tend to be at the very least fairly priced in their respective categories. Sometimes their wines can also be an outright bargain as well. Importantly though, I’ve never had a wine from Rodney Strong Vineyards that I felt was overpriced for the quality it delivered. For my money, that’s no small feat. Today I’ll look at the latest release of one of their Chardonnays.

The Rodney Strong Vineyards 2008 Chalk Hill Chardonnay was produced using fruit from the Chalk Hill area. This offering is 100% Chardonnay. 97% of this wine was fermented in barrel and underwent malolactic fermentation. Barrel aging occurred over an 8 month period. This wine has a suggested retail price of $20.

Pineapple, McIntosh apple, and a hint of burnt sugar are the most prominent aromas in the fresh and lively nose of this 2008 Chardonnay. Orchard fruits, including continued apple, are the stars of the palate. Spice and mineral notes play important secondary roles. A hint of oak emerges in the finish along with a rich creamy edge. Crisp acidity keeps things in balance.

I have found this Chardonnay from Rodney Strong Vineyards to be a consistent winner. It does a nice job of straddling a few lines. It has new oak clearly imparted but never over the top. It’s a premium wine at $20 but it over delivers on quality in that price range. Finally it has a generally consistent flavor profile from year to year while still allowing vintage variation to dictate its nuances. A fine and worthy Sonoma Chardonnay.

Posted in Chardonnay, Wine | Leave a Comment »

2008 Pinot Noir – Rodney Strong Russian River Valley Reserve / V.Sattui Henry Ranch Carneros

Posted by Gabe on August 6, 2010

Pinot Noir is one of my favorite varietals. But way too often this grape is treated poorly. Sometimes the problem starts at birth so to speak. Some folks plant Pinot in the wrong place. Thankfully we know a lot more today about where Pinot should be planted than we did even a decade or so ago. Some of the other potential Pinot problems are when Pinot is overburdened with new oak as well as when it’s blended with other varietals. Today I’ll look at Pinot’s from two of the best spots in California to grow this fickle grape; Russian River Valley and Carneros.

The Rodney Strong Vineyards 2008 Reserve Russian River Valley Pinot Noir was produced using fruit from Russian River Valley. This wine is 100% varietal and three clones (Clone 115 46%, Clone 777 46%, Clone 114 8%) of Pinot Noir were used. This offering under went 10 months of barrel aging in 100% French oak. This Pinot Noir has a suggested retail price of $40.

Red cherry, clove and strawberry aromas are all on display in the nose of thus Russian River Pinot. Rhubarb flavors are joined by red and black cherry notes to form the core of the palate; their underscored by a host of spice notes such as nutmeg and white pepper. Sour cherry, black raspberry and brown sugar notes all emerge in the lengthy finish of this wine. Firm but yielding tannins and rock solid acidity provide good structure here.

This is a deep, dark, full-bodied Pinot Noir. It’s leans toward the bigger side of Pinot but it gets that expression right. Some air really softens this wine up and I recommend decanting it for about an hour if you drink it now. Otherwise you could hold this for the next 4-6 years. A great wine to pair with lamb.

The V.Sattui Winery 2008 Henry Ranch Pinot Noir was produced entirely from Carneros fruit. This offering is 100% Pinot Noir. Fermentation took place in open top stainless steel tanks. All of this wine was aged in barrel. 951 cases of this selection were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $36.

Aromas of black raspberry, tobacco leaf and a touch of thyme fill the nose of this 2008 Carneros Pinot Noir. Wild strawberry, pomegranate and a host of spices are all in abundance throughout the palate of this wine. Mushroom, earth and graham cracker notes all emerge in the finish which has good length. This wine is marked by solid acidity and soft, lush tannins.

This offering from V.Sattui is the style of Pinot I enjoy drinking on it’s own as I sit in the corner or on my deck contemplating life and the bottom of the bottle, which seems to arrive too soon.

Both of these lovely Pinot Noir’s are made by dependable producers who have been making excellent wines in California for many years. If you enjoy California Pinot Noir, either of these selections offers lots of drinking pleasure and true varietal expression.

Posted in Pinot Noir, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Big House – 2009 Big House White / 2009 Big House Red

Posted by Gabe on August 4, 2010

Who wouldn’t want to drink single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon everyday, or perhaps first growth Burgundy, or even small production Petite Sirah? I for one can raise my hand affirmatively. Most likely I’d go for the Petite Sirah, a weak spot if ever I had one. However most days many folks are looking for something that is both tasty and affordable. With a little bit of research and luck it could, and quite frankly should, be interesting too. That doesn’t sound like a lot to ask, but how does one discern one bottle from another when there are aisles and aisles of wine out there? There are two ways I go in these circumstances; one is the esoteric route, the other is the tried and true. Left to my own devices, I most often lean towards the slightly arcane or obscure, that’s just my nature. I’ll take a chance on something in the value price range and if it doesn’t pan out at least it was an adventure. If others are involved I tend to rein myself in a little bit. I look for something I’m familiar with that I feel has mass appeal. Today I’ll look at two such releases from Big House.

The Big House wines used to reside under Randall Graham’s Bonny Doon label. A number of years ago they were sold off and now Big House is its own label with a portfolio unto itself.

The 2009 Big House White was produced from fruit sourced at different vineyard sites throughout California. This wine is a blend of Malvasia Bianca (56%), Muscat Canelli (22%), Viognier (18%) and Rousanne (4%). This wine underwent temperature controlled fermentation prior to bottling. This offering has a suggested retail price of $9.99.

Lychee fruit, papaya and orange blossom aromas are all present in the nose of this wine. Lemon zest, pineapple, mango and a solid core of spice characteristics are all on display throughout the palate. A bit of vanilla bean emerges on the finish of this wine which also has a hint of honey in an overall crisp and zingy close. This wine will be an excellent match for Asian or Indian cuisine. It has lots of crowd pleasing potential and will also work well as a welcome wine.

The 2009 Big House Red was also produced from fruit sourced throughout California. This offering is a blend of Petite Sirah (27%), Syrah (14.5%), Montepulciano (8.6%), Barbera (8.2%), Nero d’Avola (6.4%), Tempranillo (6.1%) and a host of others in smaller and smaller quantities. This wine underwent temperature controlled fermentation. Some lots underwent malolactic fermentation and barrel aging in primarily neutral oak. This wine has a suggested retail price of $9.99.

Plum aromas abound in the nose of Big House Red. Throughout the palate dark fruit flavors in general are prominent. Raspberry, sour black cherry and blackberry join continued plum characteristics. The finish is spicy with black and white pepper leading the charge. A good amount of earth emerges as well and adds to the old world charm on display. This wine is tasty on it’s own but is a great match for casual foods; burgers, hot dogs, sandwiches and the like are all appropriate pairing partners.

These wines from Big House have been solid values for many years. What separates them from a lot of wines in the same price category is that they’re far more interesting. Part of that is the diversity of the blends, the rest is the winemaking. These offerings are made to be food friendly and have wide appeal, but they aren’t dumbed down like so many in this price range. They’re are solid everyday vales the average wine drinker will enjoy.

Posted in Blends, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Cono Sur – 2008 20 Barrels Syrah

Posted by Gabe on August 2, 2010

Well priced Cabernet Sauvignon is what first turned me on to Chilean wines many years ago. After discovering the great values available in that category I began to explore others as well. Over the years the other red from Chile that has most often impressed me is Syrah. There are many well priced examples coming from Chile. Stylistically they take cues from both the old and new world. Today I’ll look at a limited release Syrah from Cono Sur.

The Cono Sur 2008 20 Barrels Syrah was produced using fruit sourced in the Limarí Valley of Chile. In addition to Syrah this wine also has a small amount (less than 3%) of Cabernet Sauvignon blended in. Fruit was hand picked and fermentation occurred over 30 days in stainless steel tanks. Barrel aging followed over the next 16 months. This wine has modest alcohol content of 13.6%. It sells for right around $19.

The first thing that’s apparent about this 2008 Syrah is the deep, dark, inky, purple hue that springs from the glass with brooding intensity. The nose is loaded with brambly fruit, leather, dust, cigar box and an underlying wisp of thyme. Crushed cherry flavors with a velvety edge lead the palate which is intense and full flavored in its attack. Blackberries and copious spice notes follow. They all lead to an intense and layered finish which shows off chicory, tobacco, black pepper, earth, sour cherry and a hint of dark dusty baker’s chocolate. Fine acidity keeps things balanced.

This is a really nice Syrah that provides tons of varietal character and lots of bang for the buck. A perfect wine to pair with roast pork dishes such as Pernil or even BBQ. This one is worth the effort to seek out. Drink it over the next 2-4 years for maximum pleasure.

Posted in Syrah/Shiraz, Wine | Leave a Comment »

 
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