Gabe's View

Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

Archive for March, 2011

V. Sattui Winery – 2007 Cabernet Franc

Posted by Gabe on March 18, 2011

There are a handful of varietals that I find too intriguing to ever turn down. Petite Sirah and Charbono are two, the third is Cabernet Franc. What they have in common I suppose aside from being red of course, is varying degrees of scarcity. If you go from tasting room to tasting room in Napa as one example you’ll find lots of Cabernet Sauvignon. However you’ll be able to count the number of times you run across these varietals in a day on one hand. That’s only part of the story though. Lots of other varieties are even harder to come by and I don’t chase them to the ends of the earth. These wines each has something that makes them both unique and interesting in many cases. So when someone offers me a taste, it doesn’t matter when or where, I nod my head and say, “yes please.” Today I’ll look at a Cabernet Franc from Napa Valley producer V. Sattui Winery.

The V. Sattui Winery 2007 Cabernet Franc was produced using fruit mostly sourced in Alexander Valley. This wine is mostly Cabernet Fran (93.8%) with small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon (3.9%) and Merlot (1.4%) blended in. The fruit came from two vineyards; most from Ramazzotti in Alexander Valley and a smaller amount from Henry Ranch on Mt Veeder. Fremenation took place in open top stainless steel. Barrel aging followed in a combination of new (50%) and used (50%) French oak. 637 cases of this selection were produced and it sells for $30.

Blueberries and plum lead the nose of this 2007 Cabernet Franc along with hints of leather. The palate is loaded with rich, layered berry flavors. Blueberry, red and black raspberry and blackberry each make their presence known. Droves of earth, cherry, pepper spice and dusty baker’s chocolate are part of the finish which has excellent length. Firm tannins yield with some air.

This wine is a fine example of Cabernet Franc. The small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon makes its presence known in the structure of this wine. This is a very solid value for $30.

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Vino dei Fratelli – 2009 Nero d’Avola

Posted by Gabe on March 17, 2011

Nero d’Avola isn’t one of those grapes that you hear people talking about a lot. Certainly it isn’t discussed the way people do Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese or Pinot Noir to name a few. And I suppose there are numerous reasons for that. That said this southern Italian grape should get a bit more attention than it does. The wines it produces are often good values that work well with everyday foods. Today I’ll look at one from the 2009 vintage.

The Vino dei Fratelli 2009 Nero d’Avola was produced using fruit sourced in Sicily. This wine is 100% varietal. 5,000 cases of this offering were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $15.99.

Aromas of plum and black mission fig are prominent on the nose of this 2009 Nero d’Avola. Dried red and black fruit flavors dominate the palate. Earth and spice both emerge on the finish. This wine shows supple tannins and firm acidity. This selection is a natural partner for cheeses, salamis and the like.

This wine is a nice everyday value and it really represents exactly what Nero d’Avola is about in my opinion. It has rock solid acidty and pairs well with many of the foods that people eat regularly; and for less than $16 you can keep it around to enjoy often.

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Examining the Age Worthiness of White Wines from Alto Adige

Posted by Gabe on March 16, 2011

Last week I attended a tasting in Manhattan featuring the wines of Alto Adige. This region sits in the Italian Alps. Both red and white varieties are grown with white taking the lead at 55% of planted acreage. This two-part tasting included a walk around portion that featured tons of exciting new releases from a host of producers. Both red and white wines were showcased. That was the second part of the day; I’m going to focus on the first part. That initial piece was a 90 minute, sit-down seminar during which eight white wines were presented. The mission statement of the seminar was to illustrate the overall age-ability of white wines from Alto Adige. There are few regions in the world that produce white wines with the ability or intent of aging. The ones that have that capability however can often be transcendent. I was pretty curious to see how these wines would taste and if they really did have the as advertised potential for above average longevity. What follows are some brief thoughts about each of the eight wines we tasted.

Nals Margreid 2007 Pinot Grigio Punggl DOC Alto Adige. This single vineyard wine is 100% Pinot Grigio. Half of the grapes for this wine were fermented and aged in large oak barrels, the other half in stainless steel tanks. At release this wine had a suggested retail price of $24. The 2009 is the current vintage of this particular wine. The 2007 features lots of yellow fruit flavors throughout a round and sweet but well balanced palate. It shows off the juicy flavors that are prevalent with relatively small production Pinot Grigio treated with care; as opposed to the vast array of anonymous Pinot Grigio that hits US shelves by the boatload.

Franz Haas 2004 Cuvee Manna. This wine is a blend of Riesling, Chardonnay, Traminer Aromatico and Sauvignon Blanc. The fruit was sourced from four vineyards at altitudes of 350 to 850 meters. Each lot was picked and fermented separately. The Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc saw time in Barrique while the Riesling and Traminer Aromatico were fermented in steel. The blend was assembled at final fermentation and spent 10 months on yeasts prior to bottling. 50,000 bottles of this wine were made and at release it had a retail price of $40. The stated goal of this wine is the ability to pair with as wide an array of foods as possible. Apricots, and white cling peach characteristics are dominant on this wine which is driven by intense, fresh fruit flavors. There is a bit of honey on the finish. Ultimately this offering is layered with loads of complexity. For me this was one of the most interesting wines of the day.

San Michele Appiano 2006 Pinot Grigio Sanct Valentin DOC Alto Adige. This wine was sourced from vines with 25-40 years of age on them. The vineyards selected sit approximately 450 meters above sea level. This wine was aged in a combination of new (40%) and used (60%) barriques. This offering spent 11 months on yeast. At release this wine had a suggested retail price of $35.99. Lilac, peach and a hint of petrol are all present in the nose of this wine. Apricots are prominent on the palate along with spices that carry through the finish along with minerals. This wine has terrific concentration of fruit and persistent, lingering and rather impressive length.

Caldro Castell Giovanelli 2007 Sauvignon DOC Alto Adige. The vines the fruit for this selection were sourced from average 5-10 years of age. This offering is 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Fermentation and aging took place in oak casks. At release this wine had a suggested retail price of $48. This wine is incredibly aromatic with citrus and melon fruit just exploding from the nose. The palate shows continued citrus in droves. Minerals are the story on the crisp, clean finish. This wine has racy, slightly zingy acidity.

Terlan Nova Domus 2005 Terlaner Riserva DOC Alto Adige. This wine is a blend of Pinot Blanc (60%), Chardonnay (30%), and Sauvignon Blanc (10%). The fruit was sourced from vineyards sitting between 350 and 500 meters above sea level. Fermentation took place in large oak casks (50%) and 500 Liter Tonneaux. The wine spent a year on the yeast. At release this offering had a suggested retail price of $55. Citrus and spice notes are both prominent on the finish of this wine. Stone fruits dominate the palate. The finish of this selection just goes on and on. For a 5 + year old white blend the fruit on this wine is incredibly fresh and vital. It just keeps beckoning you back for more.

Alois Lageder 2002 Chardonnay Lowengang DOC Alto Adige. The fruit for this wine was selected from vines with 40 to 60 years of age on them grown at vineyard sites sitting 260-450 meters above sea level. This was fermented using native yeasts. It was aged in a combination of new (50%) and used (50%) barriques. At release this wine had a suggested retail price of $40. Apple, limestone and minerals are all present on this wine. Its overall style in many ways brings to mind aged Burgundy. The purity of fruit and length of finish are both impressive. 

Peter Zemmer 2006 Gewürztraminer Reserve DOC Alto Adige. This wine is 100% Gewürztraminer, Fermentation took place with pure strains of yeast in temperature controlled tanks. At release this wine had a suggested retail price of $29. This wine is gloriously aromatic with spice and dried fruit and flower aromas emerging from the glass in droves. The palate of this wine is rich and layered with flavor; it’s also impeccably balanced and incredibly in focus. The finish has prodigious length that features a particularly impressive spice component.

Tramin 2004 Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer DOC Alto Adige.  The Nussbaumer Estate Vineyards sit between 350 and 500 meters above sea level. This wine is 100% Gewürztraminer. Fruit for this wine was hand picked. Fermentation took place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. At release this wine had a suggested retail price of $35. Nectarine, lychee and hazelnuts fill the nose of this wine. Through the palate apricot and both white and yellow peach flavors are present in droves. This wine has a rich, layered and honeyed finish that lingers persistently. This wine has incredibly appealing flavors and you’ll be hard pressed to stop drinking this once you start.

The bottom line is that each of these selections was impressive in its own right. Taken as a group they were an impressive lineup that achieved the mission statement of showcasing the eminent age worthiness of well made white wines from the Alto Adige region of Italy. Each of them was drinking well and featured fresh flavors that belied their ages. As a group they also had more life ahead of them. Given the complexity, drinkability and obvious longevity these particular wines as well as the current vintages are well worth your time, effort and money.

Posted in Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Palacios Remondo – 2009 La Vendimia D.O.C. Rioja

Posted by Gabe on March 15, 2011

The two red grape varietals that dominate the landscape both figuratively and somewhat literally in Spain are Tempranillo and Garnacha. Often times one or the other dominates either a blend or is bottled as a single variety with small percentages of other grapes. Today I’ll look at a blend where the two key red varietals from Spain play equal roles.

The Palacios Remondo 2009 La Vendimia D.O.C. Rioja was produced using fruit sourced at estate vineyards. These vines which sit at 1,800 feet above sea level have been organically farmed since 2003. This wine is a 50/50 blend of Garnacha and Tempranillo. The fruit was hand-picked and sorted. Fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks. Barrel aging took place over 5 months in a combination of used French (80%) and American (20%) oak. This offering has a suggested retail price of $14.99.

Aromas of violet and dark berry fruit are joined by hints of vanilla crème in the nose of this 2009 blend from Rioja. Black and red cherry lead the way through the palate. Ultimately though, those cherry flavors are supplanted by black currant and a host of purple fruit flavors. The finish shows off earth, hints of cola, rhubarb and a couple of wisps of cranberry. This wine has soft tannins and solid acidity.

This Rioja blend is a terrific value. It’s drinks beautifully on its own and will also be a great match for a particularly wide array of foods. Things like Serrano Ham, Manchego cheese and Paella will all pair fabulously with this wine.

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Antinori Agricola Bramasole La Braccesca – 2006 Syrah Cortona DOC

Posted by Gabe on March 14, 2011

Syrah is one of those varieties that belong to the world. What I mean is that it flourishes in quite a few places and the expression of it can be wildly different and yet quite valid. Syrah gown in California, France and Australia often has very little in common, flavor profile wise. Italy isn’t the first, or even the second place I think of when this grape comes to mind, but there are some pretty interesting examples of this varietal emerging from there. Today I’ll look at a release from Antinori, one of the classic Italian producers.

The Antinori Agricola Bramasole La Braccesca 2006 Syrah Cortona DOC was produced using fruit sourced at La Braccesca estate vineyards. This offering is 100% Syrah. After fermentation it was aged in new barrique for 14 months followed by 12 months of bottle aging prior to release. This wine has a suggested retail price of around $44 but is currently on sale at WineChateau.com for just under $26.

Black cherry, blueberry, nutmeg, clove and allspice aromas are joined by hints of herbs on the nose of this 2006 Italian Syrah. A combination of fresh ripe fruit flavors intermingles with more prominent dry fruit characteristics throughout the palate of this wine. Blackberry and black raspberry flavors are particularly prominent along continuing cherry elements. Minerals, black tea, spice, smoked meats and rhubarb all emerge along with copious quantities of chocolate covered cherries on the velvety and persistent finish. This wine is balanced by firm acidity.

This is a nice Syrah that will pair well with a pretty wide array of foods. Full flavored dishes will be a particularly good match. That said this wine drinks well on its own. If you like Syrah, this is a good value and an interesting wine, give it a shot.

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Franciscan Estate – 2009 Sauvignon Blanc / 2009 Chardonnay

Posted by Gabe on March 13, 2011

In the early 90’s when I first started visiting Napa Valley a handful of producers were of specific interest to me. I’d visit them time and again because they had one or more wines that I enjoyed regularly and I was also always eager to taste smaller production things that I couldn’t get on my shelf back home. Franciscan Estate was one of those producers. Their Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay were the three wines I drank with the most regularity, but I really enjoyed the majority of their portfolio quite a bit. As happens from time to time they slipped off my radar a bit of late. The number of wines out there are practically dizzying in number, making it difficult to always go back and revisit. So when current releases of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc from Franciscan landed on my desk recently it felt like it does when an old friend you haven’t seen in awhile calls or rings your doorbell, or these days, pokes you on Facebook. Regardless of how they reach out, the reaction is usually the same you want to know how they’re doing. And that was exactly what I was wondering about Franciscan Estate. So today I’ll take a look at their latest vintage of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.

The Franciscan Estate 2009 Sauvignon Blanc was produced using fruit sourced exclusively in Napa Valley. This offering is 100% Sauvignon Blanc. The wine was fermented in a combination of stainless steel (90%) and neutral oak (10%). Just fewer than 4,000 cases of this wine were bottled and it has a suggested retail price of $17.

A host of herbaceous aromas are joined by citrus and vanilla bean in the nose of this Sauvignon Blanc. Meyer lemon and grapefruit characteristics lead the palate. Along the way tropical fruit flavors such as papaya and guava are in evidence as well along with bits of gooseberry. White pepper spice, minerals and continued citrus flavors are all part of a lingering finish which is clean, crisp and refreshing.

This Sauvignon Blanc would be an excellent choice to pair with entrée salads, light appetizers and soft cheeses to name a handful of examples. It‘s tasty on its own as well, but really excels to a higher level with food. This is a very appealing wine that will both appease a large crowd of general wine drinkers and also satisfy the Sauvignon Blanc lovers amongst them.

The Franciscan Estate 2009 Chardonnay was produced using fruit sourced in Carneros and southern Napa Valley. This wine is 100% Chardonnay. Fermentation took place in barrel followed by 7 months of aging in small French and American oak barrels; 20% of them were new. Just fewer than 59,000 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $18.

Orchard fruit aromas fill the nose of this Chardonnay. Vanilla bean and hints of toast are present as well to a smaller degree. Both pear and apple flavors are in evidence throughout the palate along with a bit of orange zest. Baker’s spices provide some tongue tingling complexity. Hints of creaminess emerge on the finish and the orchard fruit flavors continue along with a bit of pie crust and a touch of citrus.

This Chardonnay is an impeccably balanced wine. The influence of oak adds the perfect counterpoint to all the terrific fruit flavors. Everything is kept in balance by vital, racy acidity. This wine like the Sauvignon Blanc is delicious on its own but will flourish when paired with food.

Checking in with these new releases from Franciscan Estate it’s good to see that they’re still producing wines that show off their fruit beautifully. Each of these wines is widely available through the US and if you shop around you’ll find them for a bit less than suggested retail. These are both tasty wines and solid values.

Posted in Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Robert Mondavi Winery – 2009 Moscato D’Oro

Posted by Gabe on March 12, 2011

The Robert Mondavi Winery 2009 Moscato D’Oro is a single vineyard effort. All of the fruit for this dessert wine was sourced at the Wappo Hill Vineyard in Napa Valley’s Stags Leap District. This wine is 100% Muscat Canelli. The fruit was hand-picked over several days so that each lot would bring in different flavor profiles. Fermentation was stopped with chilling and filtration right after the sugar level dipped below 11%. This wine saw no oak treatment. The alcohol content is just above 8%. This wine is bottled in 375ml splits and has a suggested retail price of $25; it is current selling through the winery’s website for $20.

As is typical to the Muscat Canelli grape this dessert wine from the Mondavi Winery is highly aromatic. Tropical fruit aromas carry the day. Mango and papaya play roles along with lychee, and guava is present as well. These characteristics carry on through the palate where they’re joined by peach, apricot, nectarine and white plum. Those flavors continue through the finish where hints of tangerine are also present along with a wisp of white pepper. This is one dessert wine that is refreshing and crisp. When that final note dissipates it beckons you back to the glass for another sip

The 2009 Moscato D’Oro is a truly gorgeous wine. What I love about it most is that it does an impeccable job of balancing sweetness and light. All of the glorious ripe fruit flavors are on display prominently. The requisite sweetness is perfectly balanced by terrific acidity. This wine can easily be dessert all by itself. However it’ll pair perfectly with a fruit tart or an Italian style Ricotta based cheesecake.

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Michael Torino Estate – 2010 Cuma Malbec

Posted by Gabe on March 11, 2011

I’ve been tasting through quite a few Malbecs lately and I’ll present some of the noteworthy ones here every week or so for a couple of months. Argentina’s Michael Torino Estate makes several tiers of wine. One of those tiers is Cuma. This word means clean and pure in Aymara a local language that predates the Inca’s. This range represents their organic offerings. Today I’ll look at the Malbec from that tier. In addition to Malbec they also produce a Cabernet Sauvignon and a Torrontes in that range.

The Michael Torino Estate 2010 Cuma Malbec was produced from grapes certified to be organic. The fruit was sourced in the Cafayate Valley region. This offering is 100% Malbec. This wine has a suggested retail price of $12.99.

When you pour this Malbec it’s impossible not to notice the beautiful purple hue that’s tinged with bits of red. Aromas of sweet red and black jam along with vanilla bean fill the nose of this 2010 Malbec. The word juicy is the first that comes to mind when tasting this wine. Crushed red cherries and black mission fig flavors fill the palate. An undercurrent of spice kicks in and leads to the finish which shows off a bit of sweet dark chocolate and continued spice. Sufficient acidity keeps things in check.

There are a few things I really like about this Malbec. One is the overall juiciness of the wine. The other is the purity of fruit which is persistent from the first sip until the last. It’s loaded with flavors but nicely balanced and easy to drink in the best sense of that expression. The bottom line is that it outclasses its price-point.

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Cinnabar Winery – 2006 Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon

Posted by Gabe on March 10, 2011

More and more over the last few years I’ve been impressed with wines from the Santa Cruz Mountains. I’ve taken a few looks at some wines from Cinnabar and the time has come to revisit them. Cinnabar Winery has a history there that dates to 1983. The name of the winery comes from the belief of 14th century alchemists that they could use the mineral Cinnabar to transform everyday metals into gold. Cinnabar Winery founder Tom Mudd applied that magical thought to winemaking. In total Cinnabar Winery produces approximately 17,000 cases per year. Incorporated in that are three lines or tiers of wines.

The Cinnabar Winery 2006 Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon was produced using hand picked fruit from two parts of the Santa Cruz Mountains. This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Oak aging took place over 30 months in small French Barrels. The final wine was assembled from a cuvee of select barrels. A mere 198 cases of this offering were bottled and it sells for $45.

Heady dark fruit aromas lead the nose of this 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon. Spice notes such as clove, vanilla and a hint of thyme underlie them in a firm supporting role. The palate shows off rich dark fruits that are filled with mountain grown intensity and concentration. Black cherry dominates with blackberry and blueberry fruit playing secondary roles along with a host of spices. Toasty oak, black pepper and wisps of nutmeg are all part of the finish which features terrific persistence. Firm tannins yield with some air and everything is kept in check by terrific acidity.

This is a fine example of Cabernet Sauvignon and an equally compelling illustration of the excellent wines being produced from Santa Cruz Mountains Fruit. If you drink this wine over the next couple of years I’d plan to decant it for 90 minutes and pair it with hearty for best results. However if you have some patience I’d lay this wine down for 5-8 years and drink it in the 5 after that. In either case you can’t go wrong this is a terrific Cabernet Sauvignon.

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Trapiche Broquel – 2009 Pinot Noir

Posted by Gabe on March 9, 2011

South America has been coming on strong with Pinot Noir. It’s perhaps the most fickle of all red varieties. Where it’s grown and how it’s treated after that is often the source of great debate. When Pinot Noir is well made it can inspire great acclaim and adulation. Trapiche is an Argentine producer that has broad range of wines in its portfolio. Their offerings run the gamut of styles, disciplines, and price points. Today I’ll look at the current release Pinot Noir in their Broquel line.

The Trapiche Broquel 2009 Pinot Noir was produced using fruit sourced in the Mendoza region of Argentina. Some (70%) of the fruit was de-stemmed and the balance (30%) was vinified with stems. The wine was aged on the lees in French oak for a period of nine months. This offering is 100% Pinot Noir and it has a suggested retail price of $15.

Dark cherry, leather and mushroom aromas fill the nose of this 2009 Pinot Noir. Hints of plum and wild strawberry are apparent on the palate. However these are secondary to the oodles of black cherry flavors that dominate. Earth, black tea, hints of cola and bits of vanilla, white pepper and clove cinnamon are present on the finish which has good persistence. This wine has yielding tannins and firm acidity.

For $15 (less if you shop around) this wine represents a nice value in Pinot Noir. It’s well made, presenting a flavor profile that is authentic to Pinot Noir. It’s quite tasty by itself but will pair with a wide range of foods.

Posted in Pinot Noir, Wine | Leave a Comment »

 
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