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Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

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Tamás Estates - 2009 Pinot Grigio / 2008 Zinfandel / 2008 Double Decker Red

With Holiday time upon us a lot of folks are looking for wines to drink at gatherings of all sorts. Sometimes the occasion calls for a special bottle of some kind. Perhaps in those cases you either pull out something you have tucked away or you might step outside of the normal spending budget to get something different, unique or limited. Conversely the Holiday Season also inspires a lot of more casual get-togethers with friends and family too. People in general seem more prone to call and say they’re going to pop by. It’s a times like these it’s really handy to have some everyday wines on hand to share. You want something that isn’t going to break the bank, but you’ll want it to be tasty too. Riding that line between budget and quality can be tricky. I believe the selections I’m looking at today from Tamás Estates make it a little easier. First up is the Tamás Estates 2009 Pinot Grigio. This wine was produced using fruit sourced in California’s Central Coast. Fermentation occurred in stainless steel tanks. It has a suggested retail price of $9.99. Green apple and hints of citrus fill the nose of this Pinot Grigio. Zesty lemon-lime ice is apparent through the palate. Crisp sour fruits, hints of cream and spice make of the finish. This wine is refreshing and showcases firm acidity.

Next up is the Tamás Estates 2008 Zinfandel. This wine was also sourced from Central Coast fruit. Fermentation took place in stainless steel followed by aging in a combination of French, American and Eastern European oak; both new and neutral barrels were used. This wine has a suggested retail price of $9.99. Jam laden red fruits and touches of vanilla are present in the nose of this Zinfandel. Black raspberry and huckleberry are present in droves through the palate. Those berry fruit flavors continue through the finish along with black cherry, earth, graham cracker crust, plum pudding spice and toasty oak. This is Zinfandel built to pair with food.

Finally today is the Tamás Estates 2008 Double Decker Red. This blend was produced from Central Coast fruit. It combines Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and Barbera. After fermentation in stainless steel, aging occurred in both neutral oak and stainless steel. This wine has a suggested retail price of $9.99. Plum and blueberry aromas fill the nose of this blend. Cherry and continued blueberry and plum are prominent through the palate. Sour cherry emerges on the finish along with rhubarb and both black and white pepper. This is a very appealing red that will pair with a host of medium to full flavored foods.

This trio of wines from Tamás Estates is great for the purpose I described above; they’ll give you something tasty to open for a casual get together without breaking the bank. Wines like this are also handy to keep around the house when a friend or neighbor shows up and gives you an unexpected gift. A bottle of wine in a gift bag paired with a dark chocolate bar or a small bag of nuts is a convenient gift to have lying around for those occasions. And worst case if the holidays end and you didn’t use them for that purpose, open them on a random Tuesday with a slice of pizza.

Chilcas - 2008 Reserva Merlot / Ecos de Rulo - 2007 Bisquertt Merlot Gran Reserve

I love Merlot. There I've done it, I’m taking sides with a variety that a lot of people seem to have a strong aversion to. Here’s the dirty secret about that though, there’s quite a bit of really good Merlot made in many wine regions throughout the world. That said there’s also a lot of Merlot I would have no desire to drink. Due to some industrial tasting Merlot, and a little movie that bashed Merlot as much as it praised Pinot Noir a lot of wine drinkers have taken to drinking anything but Merlot. For my money they’re missing out. Today I’ll look at two terrific, well priced examples from Chile. First up is the Chilcas 2008 Reserva Merlot 2008. The fruit for this wine was sourced near the winery which sits adjacent to the Descabezado Volcano. There they have just fewer than 1,000 acres. This includes vineyard land, physical winery, bottling plant, and their offices. This wine is 100% Merlot and has a suggested retail price of $13.

The nose of this Merlot shows of a bit of an herbaceous quality, following that is an onslaught of dark fruit flavors. The dark fruit theme continues through the palate where cherry and blackberry along with a host of other flavors rule the day. Pencil lead, minerals, black pepper and earth are all part of an above average and layered finish. This wine has chewy tannins and good overall structure. For $13 this wine shows excellent varietal character and is a very good value.

The second wine is the Ecos de Rulo 2007 Bisquertt Merlot Gran Reserve. This wine was made using fruit sourced in the Colchagua Valley. In addition to Merlot (90%), this wine has 10% Petit Verdot blended in. Barrel aging occurred over 12 months in French oak; three months of bottle aging followed. This offering has a suggested retail price of $16.

Blueberry aromas explode from the nose of this 2007 Merlot. They’re joined by hints of vanilla, thyme and a touch of toast. Blackberry, black raspberry, huckleberry, and continued blueberry are all part of a veritable avalanche of dark fruit flavors which dominate the palate of this Merlot.  Espresso, hints of earth and a dollop of brown sugar all emerge in the finish which has excellent length. This wine shows of medium tannins and nice structure. At $16 it also shows off true Varietal character and is a terrific value.

If you haven’t been drinking Merlot, it’s time to start again. If you have been drinking it along here are a couple of offerings that over-deliver in their category. In any case you can’t miss with these two wines from Chile. This is a country which continues to be one to look to time and again for distinct wines that deliver more quality than their price points indicate in many instances.

Visiting Opus One in Napa Valley

Expectation can be a heavy burden to live up to. Whether it’s a film, book, a bottle of wine or an athlete’s performance, anything perceived as less that the anticipated result comes off as a let down. The same of course can be true for winery visits. Producers of all shapes and size the world over open their doors and invite folks in to taste their wares and perhaps tour their facility. Sometimes it’s easier to be wowed when you know nothing of the wine or the producer in question. Again, with a lack of expectation it’s somewhat easier to impress people. Folks in all lines of work do this all the time; under promise and over deliver, it’s a classic time honored technique. But with many of the world’s wineries, particularly the well known ones, their reputation is known and the expectation level exists. Such is the case with Napa Valley’s Opus One. Last month I paid to Opus One with some friends. I’d been their once before and recalled it fondly, but it had been about 7 or 8 years so the details were dull. The wine itself is of course the stuff of legend. Founded in 1979 by Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild the goal from the outset was simple, greatness. These two legends of their respective wine worlds came together in Napa Valley to make one wine that would compete with the best of the best. It was to be an offering in the great Bordeaux style using the classic varieties which also flourish in Napa Valley. Pretty much from the outset the wines have been praised, setting the bar even higher.

So as my friends and I approached Opus One each of us had different ideas about what we’d find inside, but certainly we all had lofty expectations. Keeping that in mind it’s impressive to say the least that we were all knocked out by the experience. Our tour guide Yasko was part of the greatness of our visit. She’s been with Opus One for a few years and knows the history of the project amazingly well and answered every question we had. But well beyond that the grandeur of the facility is hard to miss. Everything about Opus One is as precisely as it was masterminded, regal and impressive. If I had a nickel for every barrel room I’ve seen on winery tours, well I’d have quite a few nickels. They come in all styles and sizes but at the end of the day not many of them make my jaw drop. I’d seen the barrel room at Opus One before, but still it was a sight to behold. The same came be said for the tank room and other pieces of the wine making facility. The entrance, the tasting area and essentially every last square inch of Opus One is on a different rung than most wineries. It’s intended to be both a working winery and a knock your socks off showplace and it succeeds admirably at both of those things.

At the end of the tour, right after being wowed by the barrel room we had the opportunity to taste the current release of Opus One, the 2007. I was left with a similar impression that I’ve had each time I’ve tasted a new release of their wine. It was impressively structured and tasty, but ultimately tight and in need of some time in the bottle to really resolve itself fully. Hopefully most of the folks who are spending the money to invest in this wine ($195.00 SRP) are also patient enough to give it a few years of time. A few minutes later tasting the 2005 vintage proved to be a revelation in itself. While I believe it still has quite a few years ahead of it, the 2005 Opus One is performing phenomenally right now. It’s a showcase wine and if you want to bowl your wine loving friends over and you can locate some 2005, it’s sure to do the trick.

Touring and tasting at Opus One is neither the least or most expensive proposition in Napa Valley. However it’s an incredibly impressive display of greatness that actually lives up to the hype; something my entire group of four could attest to. So if you’re heading to Napa Valley and you want do something nice for yourself and maybe for your friends too, book a tour at Opus One, you won’t forget it. The cost is $40 and you should book in advance. I for one know that I won’t let another 7 or 8 years pass until my next visit. How could I, I don’t want to forget what the experience was like. Sometimes expectations as grand as they are can be met and exceeded.

Tempra Tantrum - 2009 Tempranillo /Shiraz

Spain has quite a number of producers with lengthy histories as family wineries. One of those is the Osbornes. Rocio Osborne is a member of the 6th generation of that family in the wine business and he produces wines under the Tempra Tantrum label. The wines under this label are blends that use Tempranillo at their heart. Today I’ll look at a new release that blends it with Shiraz. The Tempra Tantrum 2009 Tempranillo/Shiraz was produced using fruit from the Osborne Family Estate in Malpica de Tajo. This is located approximately an hour from Madrid. This offering blends 60% Tempranillo and 40% Shiraz. Fermentation took place at cool temperatures followed by micro-oxygenation and minimal bottle aging. This offering has a suggested retail price of $11.99.

Aromas of dried red fruit and black pepper fill the nose of this 2009 Spanish blend. Cherry, blackberry and huckleberry flavors are all on display throughout the palate which is vibrant and full of flavor. Hints of smoked meat emerge on the finish along sour red fruits that have a bit of a savory edge. This wine is soft and lush with sufficient acidity.

This blend from Tempra Tantrum is made to be enjoyed in its youth. It’s a well priced wine that is suitable for large gatherings or casual evenings at home. It has the flavor profile to stand up to heartier foods, but is also proportionate enough to pair with medium flavored ones as well. For less than $12 this is an interesting blend which provides good value.

Fontanella Family Winery - 2008 Chardonnay / 2008 Zinfandel / 2007 Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon

During a summer 2009 trip to Napa Valley a friend recommended Fontanella Family Winery to me. I stopped by and tasted their wines, which were impressive. You can read about my experience here. So with 2010 almost out it seemed like a good time to taste their current releases and see if I felt as strongly about these as I do the previous vintages. My impressions of them follow. First up is the Fontanella Family Winery 2008 Napa Valley Chardonnay. This wine which is all Chardonnay was produced using fruit from Mt Veeder (50%) and Carneros (50%). It was aged in French oak for 9 months; 30% of the barrels were new. It has a suggested retail price of $30. Note: The 2009 has recently been released; it’s a Mt. Veeder selection and also sells for $30.

The nose of this 2008 Chardonnay shows off orchard fruit, baker’s spices, and light hints of toasty oak. A host of fruit types are on display through the palate. Mango, nectarine, pear, apple and hints of peach are all in strong evidence. In truth it’s a very appealing potpourri of fruit flavors with a prominent vein of spices running through it. The stone fruits in evidence hang on through the lengthy finish along with continued spice such as nutmeg and white pepper. There’s a touch of unctuousness in the finish which is generally quite fresh and vibrant with racy acidity. This wine has terrific complexity and is clearly an example of Chardonnay that is enhanced by judicious use of oak.

Next up is the Fontanella Family Winery 2008 Zinfandel which was produced from fruit sourced in several prime Napa Valley Appellations; Mt Veeder and Oakville are the most prominent. This offering is 100% Zinfandel. Oak aging occurred over 11 months in American barrels. 442 cases of this release were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $36.

Right up front the nose opens with a burst of jam laden fruit. This is underscored by wisps of vanilla and bramble. Both blackberry and raspberry are prominent through the palate which is rich with layer after layer of sweet, appealing berry fruit flavors. Chocolate sauce leads the finish and really lingers right through persistently as the last note echoing on your taste buds. Along with it the fruit flavors and spice notes such as black pepper and a hint of plum pudding spice also join in. This is a Zinfandel that can easily be enjoyed either on its own or with a meal. It’s hefty and hearty but also quite well balanced and proportionate.

Finally we have the Fontanella Family Winery 2007 Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon. 100% of this fruit was sourced on Mt Veeder. 92% is Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% is Merlot. Barrel aging occurred over 20 months in French oak; 83% of the barrels were new. 650 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $50.

Eucalyptus, toast, and vanilla are the first aromas out of the chute. They’re followed immediately by a heady brew of dark leaning berry fruit. As with the Zinfandel this wine is loaded with layers of complexity that simply don’t stop. Most of the flavors lean towards dark fruits; plum, blackberry, boysenberry and quite prominently, black cherry to name a few. Chicory, dusty baker’s chocolate and hints of earth all emerge in the lengthy finish. This wine his firm tannins that yield with some air. If you’re going to drink this Cabernet now, I’d recommend a couple of hours in the decanter for maximum pleasure; however if you have some patience, lay it down for a few years and you’ll be rewarded with an even more beautiful wine.

The wines from Fontanella Family Winery are distinct and elegant. In their price points they represent fine values. The Cabernet Sauvignon in particular is an excellent deal. Terrific Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon isn’t cheap. With that in mind; this offering is actually a bit of a bargain. If you haven't had a chance to try the wines from Fontanella Family Winery yet, now is as good a time as any. Highly recommended.

Matetic Vineyards - 2009 Corralillo Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is amongst the varieties that I’m pickiest about in terms of style. To start with I’m a pretty firm believer that nothing else really belongs blended in with Pinot Noir. Of course it should also be planted in an appropriate spot and be treated right every step of the way. There’s a purity and a beauty that can be achieved with this grape when it’s appropriately handled that is distinct and impressive. Of late I’ve run across more and more examples from South America that hit my sweet spot for well made Pinot that stays true to varietal character. Today I’ll look at one from Chilean producer Matetic Vineyards. They have been farming with organic practices and are also taking the appropriate steps to become Biodynamic. To achieve this they’ve worked with noted expert in the field Alan York. His reputation as a Guru of Biodynamic Farming practices is amongst the very best. The Matetic Vineyards 2009 Corralillo Pinot Noir was produced using fruit from two estate hillside vineyards located in their home region of San Antonio Valley Chile. This offering is 100% Pinot Noir. After fermentation with select yeasts the wine was aged in French oak. 900 cases of this vintage were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $27.99.

The hue of this wine is a bit darker than the average Pinot Noir, it approximates deep red cherry in color. Wisps of tobacco and mushroom emerge from the nose of this 2008 Pinot Noir. The cherry theme continues on the palate. Black Cherry leads the way and hints of red cherry are interspersed in there as well. Touches of juicy strawberry also play a role. Black tea notes lead the finish along with cranberry, rhubarb and a spice parade led by pepper and cardamom.

This is a terrific example of Pinot Noir as well a further proof that exciting things are happening with this grape in Chile. The long, lingering finish and the wines overall balance and elegance are its most noteworthy characteristics. This wine is impressive enough to serve at a special meal, but inexpensive enough to indulge in regularly.

Fred Loimer - 2009 "Lois" Grüner Veltliner

Most things evolve over time and wine is certainly among the number of ones that do. Fred Loimer has been making this Lois release for a decade now. It was initially conceived as a lighter style of Grüner Veltliner; perhaps one that would be easier for the uninitiated to enjoy and begin to understand. Over the last decade it’s become an even more focused release with a sense of place more deeply ingrained within its contents. Today I’ll look at that 10th vintage release. The Fred Loimer 2009 Lois Grüner Veltliner was produced using fruit sourced in vineyards near Langenlois and Kamptal. Fermentation occurred in stainless steel tanks, followed by bottling in January of 2010. This wine is 100% varietal. This wine can most often be found on shelves for $12 or $13. An interesting little extra on this bottle is that the back label is doubled. The top one peels off to reveal one of many different fun lower labels. This was the wineries gift to this release on its 10th birthday.

Aromas of fresh cut grass, lime and herbs are all present in the lively nose of this 2009 Grüner Veltliner. Apple reigns supreme throughout the palate. Both tart green and a hint of yellow delicious make their presence know. Citrus chips in as well and continues through the finish along with limestone, a touch of bell pepper and a wallop of spices including white pepper. This wine is incredibly fresh, vibrant and appealing.

What I like most about this Grüner Veltliner is its versatility. Not only will this wine drink well on its own and pair nicely with food it will also have wide crowd appeal. Whether you’re new to Grüner Veltliner or have been drinking it for years this wine has something for you. At $12 or $13 it’s an excellent value and good candidate for everyday drinking.

Oveja Negra - 2008 Lost Barrel

While I’ve been drinking Chilean wine for many years I feel reinvigorated to taste more and more of them lately. For several decades now we’ve been able to find lots of value in Chilean Wine on US shelves. But now we’re also seeing greater and greater numbers of wines in all price categories. Prices, styles and quality vary; but the bang for the buck is pretty constant across all tiers. Of course not every wine is great, but there are a lot out there to love. Today I’ll look at a Chilean blend from the Maule Valley. The Oveja Negra 2008 Lost Barrel was produced using fruit sourced in the Maule Valley of Chile; more specifically from the winery’s San Rafael Vineyard. This blend is a combination of Syrah (40%), Carignan (40%), Carménère (18%), and Petit Verdot (2%). The Carignan vines have 40 years of age on them. The wine was aged in French oak barrels for 12 months. It has a suggested retail price of $25.

Aromas of dark plum are joined by hints of eucalyptus and a touch of thyme to form a lovely nose. Cherry flavors with a just a touch of kirsch liqueur to them emerge in the palate. Additional characteristics take the form of dried fruits which show up in spades. Black tea also plays a role and leads towards the finish which shows off hints of smoked meat, dark chocolate and a touch of earth. This wine has yielding tannins and firm acidity.

What I love most about this red blend is how well it pairs with food. Quite frankly it’s a food lovers dream. The dried fruit characteristics and firm acidity, which form the backbone of its pairing ability, also put me slightly in the mind of good Chianti stylistically. The finish which is above average is another noteworthy aspect of this wine. Bottom line for me is that for $25 or a bit less if you shop around you’re getting an excellent value.

V. Sattui - 2008 Vittorio's Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc

Regardless of the grape variety in question there are always an assortment of styles and differentiations to be had. This is based on where it’s grown, how it’s grown, the manner in which it’s handled, winemaking technique and of course the year to year vagaries of weather. All that on the table, I believe Sauvignon Blanc stands as one of the varieties with the greatest number of styles and expressions. Today I’ll look at one from V. Sattui Winery in Napa. The V. Sattui 2008 Vittorio’s Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc was produced using estate fruit. Vittorio’s Vineyard sits right next to the winery itself. In addition to Sauvignon Blanc (99.8%), this wine also contains a splash of Semillon (0.2%). The majority (82%) of the wine was fermented in stainless steel with the balance (18%) in neutral French oak. 773 cases of this release were produced and it sells for $22.

This pale straw color of this Sauvignon Blanc stands out immediately upon pouring. Fresh vibrant aromas of citrus and tropical fruit are part of a lively, zingy nose. The full, round palate shows off mango and papaya as well as citrus and stone fruits such as peach, apricot, nectarine and lemon. Orange ice emerges on the finish as well as wisps of white lemon pepper.

This Sauvignon Blanc from V. Sattui is food friendly and incredibly appealing. It’s easy to like style makes it a sure winner for large groups with varying palates. It also features enough depth and complexity to keep more experienced wine lovers engaged. This wine has a definite “wow” factor that will light people up when they taste it. This is a truly excellent value.

Visiting Domaine Carneros in Napa

Every time I travel to California Wine Country I undergo a lot of internal tussling. Honestly long before I even book a flight I’m thinking about where I want to go to taste wine. There are of course hundreds of options. But making the choice even tougher is the lure of old favorites, sitting on my shoulder and whispering in my ear like a comfortable, well known angel.  There’s something to be said for revisiting something you love, particularly the attraction of new vintages. On the other shoulder sits the unknown. This angel doesn’t look familiar but he whispers to me about unusual delights that I have yet to experience. In the end I try to strike a balance between the two with the unknown angel getting a little more of my attention. Each trip I also attempt to come up with some places I have been meaning to visit but somehow have managed to elude me. I visited one such spot a couple of days ago, Domaine Carneros. I’ve driven past Domaine Carneros more often than I could possibly count, and I’ve had some of their wine before. But for one reason or another I was always passing by on my way somewhere with a clock ticking. I had a 3 PM appointment for a tour and tasting and I arrived in their entryway just before that and was warmly greeted. Moments later a gentleman by the name of Jean Claude came over and introduced himself. He was our guide for the tour, and so much more. I’ve been on many wine tours and it was immediately obvious that this was going to be a noteworthy one. Jean Claude has a passion for his subject, an ability to read his audience that many don’t posses, and enough personal warmth to fill a room. The tour I was on had a total of 10 people on it; Jean Claude managed to connect on some level with every one of them. Along the way he showed us around the facility and told us about the history of Domaine Carneros as well as the Carneros appellation itself. We tasted a quartet of Sparkling Wines on our journey, from their most widely available release, to wines that are a bit harder to come by on store shelves. In short a well planned cross section of their Sparkling Wines. In an engaging and easy to follow manner that never spoke down to anyone Jean Claude went through the production of Sparkling Wine. As we did this we made our way through the facility and saw different parts of it. It was an A to Z on Sparkling Wine that provided good basic knowledge for a newer wine lover but also a level of detail that would hold the attention of a more veteran taster.

When we were finished with the Sparkling wines we sat down in a lovely bar area and Jean Claude guided us through a trio of Pinot Noirs from the Portfolio. He spoke about these as well and we enjoyed them alongside a light snack of nuts.

At the end of the tour I was lucky enough to get a chance to spend time with still Winemaker TJ Evans. He poured me an additional sparkling wine I had yet to taste and then we headed to the barrel room.  Once there TJ showed me some lots of wine with varying age on them. Some were specific clones and others a blend of more than one. I was able to get a real window into his winemaking philosophy and where the Pinot Noir Program at Domaine Carneros is headed. In his time there he’s added a few releases to the line and it looks like he’ll continue to tinker and add things when he feels the fruit justifies it.  After going through some barrels TJ showed me some older wines. While he didn’t make the 2000 and 2001 Pinot Noir he poured for me tasting them was an eye opener as he’s working with the same vines. It’s clear that the fruit those vines produces can make Pinot Noir which has the ability to age.

Taking a tour at Domaine Carneros costs $25 and lasts approximately 90 minutes. In that time you’ll learn quite a bit about the Estate, their wines, Sparkling Wine and Pinot Noir in general and Carneros. We tasted seven wines in that period and they were well spaced out with plenty of time to enjoy and contemplate them. Domaine Carneros is a beautiful property and they make terrific wines, both still and sparkling. If you’re going to be in the Napa area, don’t wait as long as I did, get to Domaine Carneros, it’s well worth your time, effort and money. I should also note that if you don’t have time for a tour there are also numerous tasting options available as well. Check their website for details. My initial instinct was right on, this was a noteworthy tour and visit.

Visiting The House of Sandeman in Portugal

One of the many highlights of my recent trip to Portugal was visiting Sandeman Cellars in Porto. Tasting a producers wine is one thing, you can conceivably do that anywhere. But the experience is always heightened for me when I get to do it in the winery itself. When you consider that Sandeman has a history dating all the way back to 1790 it’s immediately obvious that a visit there is at least, partially a step back in time. By the same token the upkeep on the facility is staggeringly on point. The sections that could and should be modernized are, the portions that are best as they were, remain intact with care. Being in close proximity to the water and walking into Sandeman Cellars was breathtaking. The history contained in the city and even in that single facility is stunning. There’s something impressive and regal about Sandeman Cellars as an edifice even as you approach it. Perhaps it’s the Sandeman Don looking down on you, or it’s the stucco and stone work that has weathered beautifully over time. In any case it’s hard not to be swept up in the times gone by. But then you have to consider that this is very much a working facility. In earlier days the Port was vinified on site. Now it’s made elsewhere, up in the Douro, and stored in casks and barrels of varying size in Porto. Walking through the cellar I felt as if the wine angels and ghosts of Ports past were walking alongside me. I practically felt them over my shoulder when I tasted some of the wines too.

George Sandeman, who is a descendent of the founder, guided us through the facility on my visit and he was a wealth of information. The tour included a look at lots of historical Sandeman artifacts encompassing documents, classic artwork and even older bottle styles. Looking at pictures of these sorts of things is one thing, to see them inches away a whole other experience. The all-inclusive tour includes a short film that serves to fill visitors in on the history of Sandeman and their production of Port. Again watching it is one thing but doing it a few feet away from barrels full of port, a very different experience. The same can be said for tasting Port not only in Sandeman, but in the very heart and soul of Porto. This is the mother of fortified wines and to taste it in its true birthplace and natural home felt as right as enjoying a glass of wine can.

The coup de grace for me was something that admittedly not every visitor will get to experience. I want to mention it however as it left a deep impression. The group I was travelling with had the good fortune to enjoy dinner in the Sandeman boardroom. We were graciously hosted by George Sandeman and several other terrific folks who work in a variety of capacities for Sandeman. In addition to the great food, the kicker was tasting several of the ports as well as other Portuguese wines alongside dinner. I’m a firm believe that wine is really an important part of a meal, so that’s my preferred method of enjoying it. Tasting Sandeman Ports alongside Portuguese cuisine is even more effective because you get to taste the wines precisely as the winemaker might when they’re putting together blends and making decisions on what works and what doesn’t.

While I was in Porto I took the time to scope out a number of Port producers. As you’d expect there are a lot of them, many of them well worth your time. However if you only have the time to visit one producer in Porto, I believe Sandeman Cellars is a perfect choice. They have the history that will wow you, the consistency of quality that will keep you coming back vintage after vintage, and the stylistic variety to appease most every palate. Once you sample the Sanedman Ports you’ll want to procure them again back home. So it’s also important to note the wide availability of the lion’s share of their different port wines. If you like Port wine and haven’t had a Sandeman, I’m not sure what you’re waiting for. If you’re new to Port the wide berth of styles and price points available under the umbrella that is their portfolio makes them a natural place to start.

Grape Festival at Ca'Mea in Hudson New York

As you can probably imagine I’ve been to wine tastings of all shapes and sizes, winemaker dinners and the like. Quite frankly I thought I’d experienced every type. That was until I heard about The Grape Festival that was held last week at Ca’Mea Restaurant in Hudson NY. This event was put on by Importer Quintessential Wines in association with the restaurant. Quintessential Wines is an importer of wines that I’ve been familiar with for a number of years. More so I’ve been impressed with their overall portfolio which focuses on family owned and operated wineries the world over. Each of these wineries features not only handcrafted wines, but a good story to boot. So when I heard that they were going to pour 17 of their wines at Ca’Mea in Hudson and pair them with Italian food I was in. Great food and wines with names like La Tunella, New Age, Valentin Bianchi, Simonsig, Two Angels, Koyle, Tinto Figuero, Fratelli, Quinta Do Vallado, and Dead Letter Office? Try to keep me away! This was to be my first trip to Hudson NY and I didn’t know exactly what to expect. What I found was a charming town with a downtown area that brings to mind old time Americana with a hip, modern flair. All located just off the Hudson River in Columbia County NY. Entering the restaurant I was taken by the homey vibe with Tuscan flourishes. Sure I was in NY, but the warmth of the staff, the ambiance, and the smells coming from the kitchen told me I could have just as easily been in a small town in Italy. Ca’Mea has been in operation for about 8 years. It was started by Roy Felcetto and his partner of late has been Max Cenci from Cortona Italy. His restaurant back in the homeland has been in operation for 18 years and is now run by his family. In addition to dining both indoors and in a courtyard garden Ca’Mea offers lodging. They offer two buildings with accommodations, one right next door and another a block away. Both are older buildings that have been lovingly restored and feature all the modern amenities one would expect from fine, country lodging. I stayed overnight myself and was really taken by the feel of the place as well as how it’s both right in the middle of town, but also serene.

So wine and food you ask, what made this tasting so unique. The host for the evening in addition to the owners of Ca’Mea was Al De Winter from Quintessential Wines. Al has been around wine for quite awhile and what he presented was a real eye opener for the eager group in attendance. The seventeen wines he poured and spoke about each represented a specific grape variety. From white through red and from Pinot Grigio through Petite Sirah, Shiraz and a Moscato D’Asti for dessert and a lot of other stops in between Al hit on 17 grapes, and eight different countries. Speaking about the grapes and their style as well as encouraging everyone to pair the wines with the food that was served seemed to open a lot of eyes. I spoke to some folks who weren’t necessarily wine drinkers but were regulars at Ca’Mea and they thought they’d check out the event. It’s fair to say that a number of people have a new appreciation and understanding of wine from the everyday manner in which Al presented good information about wine and why it works with a variety of foods. The bottom line don't be afraid to try slightly unusual sounding pairings. The results might please you a great deal.

And speaking of food; oh what food. The items that Max prepared for the tasting were nothing short of sensational. Some of it was quite traditional like Pasta in Bolognese sauce, other things like a roasted apple topped with Mascarpone cheese, truly palate awakening. Potato Croquettes were delicious and addictive. Roasted pork wrapped in Bacon with an applesauce accompaniment was delectable, seasonal and a killer pairing with at least half of the 17 wines. Bottom Line, I didn’t taste a single thing that didn’t make my mouth water. Later on in the evening I had Gnocchi with fresh tomato and basil. There are many places I simply won’t order them because of the industrial tasting, heavy as marbles things that some restaurants try to pass off as Gnocchi. I was confident this wouldn’t be the case at Ca’Mea and boy was I right. Max makes his pastas in house, by hand. The Gnocchi was airy, fluffy and just imbued with the right amount of potato flavors. The fresh sauce, basil and cheese on top the appropriate accompaniment. Having the opportunity to enjoy this dish with a glass of wine talking about food with Max, Roy and Al made the experience all the better. We sat in the courtyard where heat lamps were ready to keep us warm if there had been a chill, but there wasn’t. It was the perfect Indian Summer evening.

Did I mention how homey and terrific the ambiance and welcome at Ca’ Mea are? It’s as hard for me to overstate that as it is easy to see why this absolutely killer restaurant has a dedicated local clientele of regulars, who have become their friends really, eating there night after night. Let me put it another way, I live 100 miles away from Ca’Mea, making it hard for me to be a regular, but I can tell you I’ll definitely make the drive a couple of times a year, at least. If you’re local or travelling through the area I recommend Ca’Mea heartily. If you’re looking for a place to kick up your boots for a night or two, check into one of their rooms and enjoy their hospitality at the table and the Inn.

Masi - 2006 Costasera Amarone Classico DOC

I recently attended a tasting in NYC hosted by The Amarone Families. This is a group of 12 Family owned wineries that have formed their own association. All 12 of these families and their wineries are steeped in history, tradition and unforgiving dedication to their craft and the quality of their wines. The tasting allowed me to sample older and current vintages from each of the producers. Regardless of the style of Amarone you lean towards, they have something for you. Today I’ll take a look at a current release Amarone from one of those very families.  The Masi 2006 Costasera Amarone Classico was produced using grapes sourced at hillside, estate vineyards in the Amarone della Valpolicella Classic DOC region. This offering is a blend of Corvina (70%), Rondinella (25%) and Molinara (5%). Grapes were allowed to dry until late January when they were partially destalked prior to pressing. Fermentation occurred over 45 days in Slavonian oak. Barrel aging took place over 24 months; 80% in larger Slavonian oak and the rest in a combination of small Allier and Slavonian barrels. 40% of the barrels were new and the remainder either once or twice used previously. The wine is then bottle aged for a minimum of 4 months prior to release. It has a suggested retail price of approximately $60.

Aromas of plum and raisin are prominent in the nose which is heady and loaded with dark, brooding fruit characteristics. Just below that is an undercurrent of fresh vibrant aromas. Blackberry, blueberry, cherry and zingy raspberry flavors are all part of the palate which is full flavored, layered and intense. Chocolate and espresso notes are both in abundance on the finish along with continued wallops of fruit, particularly cherry. This wine is impeccably balanced and shows excellent acidity.

There’s no doubt this Amarone is delicious now. Decanted for a couple of hours and paired with flavorful foods this wine is just tremendously satisfying as well as an exceptional example of Amarone. However if you have some patience, you want to put this wine away for a decade or two. When you come back to it down the road you’ll find an even more elegant wine. Either way this is a sure-fire winner.

William Cole - 2009 Columbine Reserve Pinot Noir

Over the last few years I’ve taken note of some impressive Pinot Noirs from Chile. It’s an understatement to say that I'm excited about that turn of events. Pinot is one of my favorite varieties when it’s great, trouble is it’s not exceptional often enough. Too often, particularly in California, it’s planted in the wrong spot or treated with a heavy hand. A dollop of Pinot Noir in another variety is fine with me, anything else blended into a varietal Pinot Noir, not so much. Today I’ll look at a Chilean Pinot Noir that hit the spot for me. William Cole Vineyards is based in the Casablanca Valley, one of Chile’s cooler regions. They have over 129 Hectares under vine. The William Cole 2009 Columbine Reserve Pinot Noir was aged for six months in small oak casks. This offering has a suggested retail price of $15.

Wild strawberry, raspberry, mushroom a hint of forest floor and herb flourishes are all present in the heady, fresh, and inviting nose of this 2009 Pinot Noir. Black cherry and zingy red berry flavors make themselves known throughout the palate along with hints of black pepper. Rhubarb, sour red fruits and a wisp of candied cherry are all part of the finish along with star anise and a touch of chicory. This wine has excellent acidity. I found this Pinot Noir very appealing on its own and it also pair perfectly with a bowl of pasta dressed in a simple tomato sauce.

For $15 This Pinot Noir from William Cole represent a tremendous value. It’s very accessible as well as elegant. It shows off lots of genuine Pinot character and has an above average finish. If you're looking for a case buy of Pinot Noir that you can drink everyday without breaking the budget, this is it. Here’s hoping lots more Pinot Noir of this caliber and value reach our shores from Chile.

Rodney Strong - 2007 Symmetry Red Meritage

Whether it’s a $10 bottle or a $75 bottle I’ve found that the wines Rodney Strong puts their name on represent solid or better values in just about every case. If you enjoy wines from Sonoma County they’re a producer you should be familiar with as they offer many go to options, for everyday drinking, as well as plenty of wines appropriate for special occasions or cellaring. Today I’ll look at their latest Meritage. The Rodney Strong 2007 Symmetry is a red Meritage wine. Fruit for this wine was sourced in Alexander Valley. This offering is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (85%), Malbec (10%), Merlot (3%), Cabernet Franc (1%) and Petit Verdot (1%). Aging occurred over 26 months in exclusively French oak barrels. This wine has a suggested retail price of $55.

Aromas of blackberry, black raspberry, toasty oak and a hint of pine are all present in the nose of this 2007 Meritage. Cassis and continued blackberry characteristics are apparent through the palate. The story these flavors tell is quite dark and brooding with impressive depth and layer after layer of juicy flavor. Plum pudding spice notes are in evidence midway through and carry to the finish which also shows off lots of dark sweet chocolate, espresso and hints of emerging earth. This wine has firm tannins and fine acidity. I tasted this wine over 3 consecutive days. Each time I went back to the open bottle it had undergone a continuing positive evolution. If you’re drinking it now, pair it with something substantial for best results.

Symmetry is delicious today, particularly if you decant it for a couple of hours, but time will only help this wine. I would recommend this 2007 release from Rodney Strong as something you might like to tuck a couple of bottles of away in your cellar. Then come back to them down the road apiece, perhaps 5 or 10 years and you’ll find you have an even more harmonious wine on your hands. In either case Symmetry is an excellent example of what can be achieved in Alexander Valley with Bordeaux varietals.

Palacios Remondo - 2007 La Montesa

When I first started drinking Spanish wine, most of what I explored was from Rioja. Many of them, Tempranillo based wines. As time has gone on of course I’ve looked to numerous other Spanish wine regions; not to mention a host of other grape varieties. Rioja however retains a special significance for me. Today I’ll look at a new release from Palacios Remondo that blends three classic varieties. The Palacios Remondo 2007 La Montesa was produced using fruit sourced at estate vineyards which sit at an altitude of 1,800 feet. The vines have an average age of 22 years. This offering is a blend of Garnacha (60%), Tempranillo, (35%), and Mazuelo (5%). All of the fruit for this wine was handpicked and clusters were hand selected twice. After fermentation barrel aging occurred over 12 months in a combination of new and used French (85%) and American (15%) oak. This wine has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

Blackberry, plum and vanilla characteristics are present in the nose and accompany bold and enticing crushed cherry aromas which appear in spades. Throughout the palate berry fruit and spice flavors are underscored by flourishes of orange syrup and wisps of apricot, Rhubarb, white pepper and dusty, dark baker’s chocolate notes emerge with conviction in the above average finish. Lush tannins and firm acidity provide excellent structure.

I sampled this wine on its own and then later on with food. It worked quite well in both cases. However, these grapes, made in this style really excel at a different level with food. It’s as if the pairing allows the flavors to fire on all cylinders. However you drink this wine, you’ll enjoy it if you like well balanced Spanish wines that show off varietal character and sense of place. This is a very solid value.

"Attitude" by Pascal Jolivet - 2009 Rosé

With fall here and a chill in the air I start to think of Rosé a little differently. In the warmer months I think of how thirst quenching it can be; not to mention its crowd pleasing ability. This time of the year my thoughts veer towards the flexibility and adaptability that good Rosé shows off with a variety of foods. Thanksgiving, which is perhaps the most American of Holidays, is a perfect time to pull out Rosé. The typical Thanksgiving table is loaded with a variety of flavors, a challenge to pair wines with, but just the job Rosé was created to conquer. Today I’ll look at one from the Loire Valley that I strongly recommend considering for your holiday table. Attitude by Pascal Jolivet 2009 Rosé was produced from fruit sourced in the Loire Valley. This offering is a blend of equal parts Pinot Noir, Gamay and Cabernet Sauvignon. This offering was produced using a combination of press juice and some obtained using the saignée method. This 2009 Rosé has a suggested retail price of $16.

I was immediately struck by the color of this Rosé; its classic pink hue is tinged with a touch or orange. Aromas of wild strawberry and vibrant red raspberry fill the seductive nose of this wine. Red fruit characteristics continue through the palate where they’re joined by elements of citrus. Ruby grapefruit notes in particular make their presence known. White pepper and sour red fruit along with additional citrus are all part of the finish. Solid acidity keeps things nicely balanced. This is a wine that is going to make you want to keep going back to the glass for sip after sip.

This wine is textbook Rosé. It’s light and refreshing, a natural for food and is sure to please a wide array of taste buds. This is an excellent choice for a holiday meal loaded with diverse flavors. At $16, less if you shop around, it’s easy on your wallet too.

Chilean Blends Offer Diversity and Value

Wines of Chile hosted an online tasting of red blends the other night. I jumped at the opportunity to participate for several reasons. First of all, schedule permitting; I rarely turn down the opportunity to try some new wines. Secondly I’ve been a long term fan of the quality, diversity and value at varying price points that’s coming out of Chile. And last, but certainly not least, it’s fun. The format for this tasting was very similar to one I took part in a few months back, and it’s a system that works. Master Sommelier Fred Dexheimer hosted the proceedings from New York City, The winemakers for each of the eight wines we tasted were gathered in a room in Santiago Chile and the rest of us looked on via the web and submitted questions through a chat function as well as commented back and forth. Additionally most folks Tweeted during the proceedings. Tasting the wines and making notes that night was great. Many of the offerings certainly seemed like they had the structure for at least medium term aging. With that in mind I went back to the wines after 24 hours to see how they evolved. Here are my thoughts on these eight wines, presented in the order we tasted them. Valdivieso 2005 Eclat – Fruit for this wine was sourced in the Melozal area of Maule Valley. This offering is a blend of Carignan (56%), Mourvedre (24%), and Syrah (20%). The Carignan vines have over 60 years of age on them. This wine was aged for 12 months in French oak. It has a suggested retail price of $27. This wine, the oldest of the bunch, has a deep garnet hue. Aromas of spice and cocoa are both prominent on the nose. Zingy raspberry flavors are underscored by rhubarb throughout the palate. Minerals and earth notes are both in abundance in the above average finish. This wine is a food lovers dream. The firm acidity makes it a natural partner for a very wide array of matches. I liked this wine so much I wanted to climb inside the bottle and get closer to it. I’d settle for a long weekend with a couple of cases and some delicious food to munch on. Bottom line, this is just an excellent wine that you’re going to want to keep reaching for more of. When I went back to this wine after 24 hours it had held steady and was drinking as well as it had the evening before.

De Martino 2006 “Las Cruces” Single Vineyard Old Bush Vines – Fruit for this wine is from a single vineyard in Cachapoal Valley. This offering is a blend of Malbec (66%) and Carmenère (34%); there are also very low amounts of some other varieties. This wine was aged in French oak for 14 months. It has a suggested retail price of $45. A hint of mint emerges in the nose of this wine. The palate is layered and remarkably restrained for a blend of predominately Malbec and Carmenère. That said when re-tasting it after 24 hours it was significantly more expressive. The red fruits, tinged by hints of darker black fruits were more apparent on day two. The finish which has very good length shows off some sour red fruit elements and continued spice. This wine is remarkably smooth, refined and elegant. In short it’s Grace in a bottle. Delicious now, particularly with food, it should age well for 8 or more years. Pair this with hearty foods for memorable results.

Estampa 2008 Gold Assemblage Carmenère – The fruit for this offering was sourced primarily at their Marchigue estate near the Pacific Ocean. This wine is a blend of Carmenère (57%), Cabernet Sauvignon (23%), Cabernet Franc (12%) and Petit Verdot (8%). This selection has a suggested retail price of $22. The first impression of this wine is the fresh fruit aromas that waft from the nose with conviction. They’re underscored by spice and a touch of herb. Throughout the palate loads of berry fruit flavors emerge and play key roles in what is a very expressive, multi-layered wine. Both earth and espresso notes come out to play in force on the lengthy and persistent finish. Re-tasting this the second day showcased how this wine can really open up with some air and its flavors become even more animated than before. This blend from Estampa has the structure and stuffing to age gracefully for a dozen years at minimum; in short it’s a baby today. More impressive, at $22 this wine is an outright steal. This would be an excellent choice to put away a case of to watch evolve over time. This is a real knockout. If you drink it now decant it for 3 hours to get the most out of it.

Montes 2008 Limited Selection Cabernet Sauvignon Carmenère – Fruit for this blend was sourced at the Montes La Finca Estate in Apalta Valley. This offering is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), and Carmenère (30%). This wine spent six months in American oak. It has a suggested retail price of $15. The dark hue of this wine struck me as it was decidedly more intense in color than the previous three. The nose is filled with heady black cherry and copious quantities of intoxicating plum pudding spice. Those characteristics continue through the palate where red and black cherry flavors play a significant role. The palate is quite layered and while everything is in proportion the flavors are intense, just short of explosive. Minerals such as graphite in addition to other elements like earth and continued black fruits dominate the solid finish. This wine surprised me; I didn’t expect it to be better the next day. In fact I thought this was a candidate to taste a little sluggish on day 2, boy was I wrong. The openness of the flavors really ratcheted up several notches after 24 hours. For $15 this wine offers tons of drinking pleasure. Enjoy it over the next 3-4 years to get the most of its exuberant youth.

Maquis 2006 Lien – The fruit for this wine was sourced at the Maquis vineyards which are between two rivers. This vintage is a blend of Syrah (42%), Carmenère (30%), Cabernet Franc (12%), Petit Verdot (9%), and Malbec (7%). This wine was aged in all French oak. It has a suggested retail price of $19. Black fruits and spice are the dominant characteristics of the nose. The palate is loaded with juicy, red and black fruit flavors. Chocolate notes emerge as well along with spice elements. While the fruit is fresh and intense it never comes close to nudging over the top. In fact all of the elements come together lending themselves towards a wine that has both new and old world flourishes. I find that Lien has lots of wow factor. It’s going to have smart crowd appeal. It has the openness to appeal to the masses and the structure and complexity to keep more seasoned wine lovers happy. For $19 this wine is a very solid value. On the second day I found that it held its own quite nicely. Not built for long term aging, but it’ll drink well for five years. Having had this wine several times over the last few vintages, I can say that the quality and value have remained consistent.

Hacienda Araucano 2008 Clos de Lolol – Fruit for this effort was sourced in the Lolol Valley. This offering is a blend of Syrah (31%), Cabernet Franc (29%), Cabernet Sauvignon (23%), and Carmenère (17%). The Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère vines are some of the last vines in the world not to have known Phylloxera. This wine has a suggested retail price of $23. Aromas of fleshy plum and chocolate sauce are both part of the nose. Cherry comes out in droves on the palate as well as loads of spice, black pepper in particular. Kirsch liqueur emerges on the finish along with flourishes of sour berry. This wine is layered and polished. It has firm but yielding tannins and solid acidity. It drinks well on its own but will be a terrific partner to full flavored foods. On the second day this wine had opened up just a touch more. Mostly it had held steady and showed again a day later that buying this wine for $23 is petty larceny. It stands as one of the two or three best values of these 8 in a tasting loaded with wines that over deliver.

Emiliana 2007 Coyam – Fruit for this wine was sourced in Colchagua Valley. This offering is a blend of Syrah (38%), Cabernet Sauvignon (21%), Carmenère (21%), Merlot 17%), Petit Verdot (2%) and Mourvedre (1%). It was aged for 13 months in a combination of French (80%) and American (20%) oak. This wine has a suggested retail price of $29. A touch of eucalyptus emerges from the nose of this 2007 blend. It’s joined by prominent chocolate covered cherry aromas. Cherry and blackberry flavors along with toasty oak notes are all out with varying degrees of intensity through the palate. An absolute avalanche of dusty dark chocolate emerges on the finish along with earth and chicory notes. Firm tannins yield with some air. This wine is well structured for the long haul. Of the 8 wine in this Chilean Blends tasting Coyam was the most dramatically different the 2nd day. It was quite delicious on day one, but in retrospect akin to a shy child who needs some time to open up and get comfortable. On the second day the flavors just exploded on the palate and lingered on the back of the throat in a persistent finish that left an impression long after the last sip. Coyam is a very impressive wine that I’d love to re-taste 5-10 years down the road to see its evolution.

Casas del Bosque 2007 Gran Estate Selection Private Reserve – Fruit for this release was sourced in Casablanca Valley. This offering is a blend of Syrah (61%), Merlot (26%), and Pinot Noir (13%). This wine spent 22 months in 100% new French oak. It has a suggested retail price of $50. This wine has the deepest, darkest hue of the bunch. Aromas of dark fruit such as blueberry and huckleberry fill the nose. The Pinot Noir in this blend really makes its presence known in the palate; there’s a lighter bodied feel it adds, which belies the weight and heft this overall wine really has. Licorice and baker’s spice flavors join the compote of dark fruit flavors that make up this wines intense, brooding middle. Chewy tannins, and lots of juicy, sumptuous fruit flavors are part of a lengthy finish that has layer after layer of flavor. This wine was a little closed out of the chute and really needed air to open up. On day 2 it had opened up significantly; but quite frankly it tasted like it still had plenty to give. It’s an impressive wine that should definitely be decanted if you drink it over the next few years. I expect this wine to improve in the bottle over the next decade or so and to drink well for several years after that.

Several factors should become obvious to anyone tasting these wines side by side. There are a host of delicious blended wines being produced in Chile from a diverse and ever expanding array of grapes. Some of these grapes are associated with Chile in people’s minds, but many are not, and provide a real sense of discovery. The quality across the board, regardless of price point can be quite staggering. This is particularly obvious when you take into account what the same money buys you in wine from numerous other regions. And while I’m mentioning value let me make it clear I don’t mean Entry level $6 bottles. Value is important regardless of what you spend on a wine. I’m a firm believer that a $100 bottle of wine can be every bit as significant of a value as a $10 bottle. To me, it’s always relative to what else you can buy for that $100, or that $20 for that matter. This tasting of Chilean blends was a microcosm of that idea. The suggested retail prices of these 8 wines ranged from $15 to $50 which is a decent sized gulf for many folks. Perhaps most impressive, that while it certainly varied, each of the 8 wines delivers quality well over normal expectation for the price-point. If you haven't considered Chilean Wines recently, now is a good time to jump in. There are many delicious offerings to try, regardless of your budget.

V.Sattui - 2007 Black Sears Zinfandel

One of the constantly fascinating things about wine is the sense of discovery that waits around every corner and in most every bottle. Depending on how adventurous you are you may find new things in your local wine shop, online or when you visit the wine regions of your choice. V.Sattui Winery is one of the age old secrets that await you in Napa Valley. They sell their wines through the tasting room and online, direct to consumers. So unless you’ve been to Napa or a friend has gifted you a bottle, you might not know about them. That would be a shame as they’ve been turning out a diverse selection of fine wine for a long, long time. Today I’ll look at the current release of one of their Zinfandels. The V.Sattui 2007 Black Sears Zinfandel was produced using fruit sourced exclusively at the vineyard of the same name. Black Sears Vineyard sits on Howell Mountain in Napa Valley. This offering is 100% Zinfandel. Aging occurred over 16 months in French oak; half of the barrels were new, the other half previously used. A mere 400 cases of this wine were produced and it sells for $40.

Bramble, vanilla and berry fruit aromas are all present in the nose of this 2007 single vineyard Zinfandel. Throughout the palate cherry, plum, and blueberry come together as a trio to form the core of this wines gloriously dry flavor profile. This Zinfandel has a lengthy finish which shows off sour cherry, minerals, earth, espresso, and black pepper. This wine has impressive structure with firm, gripping tannins, and excellent acidity.

What I like best about this wine is the impeccable balance it shows off. This is a Zinfandel made in a style that is both restrained and loaded with flavor. The V.Sattui Black Sears Zinfandel is delicious today, however those with patience will be rewarded. This wine is an ager to be sure. It’ll improve over the next 5-8 years and drink well for at least 4-6 after that. One of the most impressive Zinfandels I’ve tasted this year. If you love Zin, grab this small production beauty before it’s gone.

The Mixology and Adaptability of Sandeman Ports

Last Week I had the opportunity to travel to Portugal for the first time. In a handful of days I felt fully engrossed in the food, wine and culture of the country. Over the next few weeks I’ll take an occasional, and in-depth, look at a number of the experiences I had while visiting this charming and beautiful country. The wines, the food, the scenery and the people were each beautiful and welcoming in their own way. So please sit back and enjoy. When it comes to Portugal, naturally the first thing that comes to mind, at least for me, is Port. These legendary wines can last more than a generation in great vintages. But of course there are so many other iterations which are distinct from Vintage Port. From Ruby Port, to Tawny and Late Bottled Vintage the styles and variations are many. While visiting Portugal I spent a significant amount of time at Sandeman Cellars. This is one of the classic Port Houses. I'll speak more about some of the specific wines in another story. This time I want to talk about something that was a reasonably fresh idea to me; that is the use of Port Wine for cocktails. The idea wasn't entirely new to me but I hadn't spent more than a little time thinking about it before this trip. Left to my own devices wine of one style or another is usually my alcoholic beverage of choice. So the idea of cocktails that include tasty ports appeals to me greatly.

Throughout last weekend I had the chance to not only spend time thinking about it and tasting cocktails made with numerous styles of Sandeman Port, I got to do some mixing myself. In a sense it was full immersion into Port based cocktails. From lunch on my very first day in Portugal right through pre-dinner cocktails on my last night I sampled more cocktails based on Port than I had ever imagined existed, let alone tasted.

The highlight of the Port based cocktail experience, for me, occurred several hours before dinner on Saturday. Along with the other folks I was travelling with, Sandeman Cellars treated us to a couple of hours with a Mixologist. This took place in a classroom/laboratory like setting within the Sandeman facility in Porto. Our teacher so to speak was an engaging fellow named Kiko. He took us through the basics of making cocktails using three classic methods. Along the way he showed us some recipes that incorporated Port of course. And then the real fun began. Our group was broken up into teams of two. Each team was given 45 minutes to come up with an original cocktail. The only rule was that it should contain one of the Sandeman Ports at our disposal. After an initial recipe my teammate and I attempted, flopped miserably, we raced the clock with only 10 minutes left. At that point my teammate James and I decided to base ours on 10 Year Old Tawny Port. To this we added simple syrup, muddled in some nectarine and topped it with Champagne. For garnish we added a strawberry and nectarine slices. Considering our original failed experiment and the minimal time we had, I think we did OK. The judges seemed to agree as we took 2nd place for what we dubbed The Sandeman Metro.

What was most incredible to see and taste is how many divergent flavors one can get from a handful of simple ingredients. Kiko impressed upon us that most of the things in our kitchens should be considered fair game for making a drink. After having this experience I for one feel a bit invigorated. My intent is to experiment further on my own and make cocktails with Port for friends and family going forward. Additionally I feel empowered, encouraged and most of all excited to share this experience with others. I've been drinking many styles of Port for most of my Adult life, but never seriously considered the adaptability of it as a cocktail base. And as a wine lover I'm enchanted by the idea of having wine parties at my home where I served port based cocktails. In a sense it'll be a way to have the best of both worlds.

The range of possibilities is staggering, if you think about it. Port can be mixed with Fruit, spices, sodas, vegetables, hard liquor, and Champagne to name but a few. The Sandeman webpage has recipes for quite a few cocktail tailored specifically to the nuances of their Ports. Not every Ten Year Tawny or Late Bottled Vintage is created equally, so keep that in mind when trying these cocktails at home. Most of all though, after trying some of these recipes, make them your own. Twist and turn them with your own nuances, or start from scratch and come up with some that are uniquely yours. If you come up with a winner, please e-mail it to me, I'd love to try something new. One of my personal favorites is the Sandeman Royal. This blend of 20 Year Old Tawny and 12 year old Scotch epitomizes how simple some of the drinks are to make. Whether you enjoy it on its own or make a cocktail with it, drink more Port. For me Ports are amongst the greatest wines in the world, I'd love to see more folks discover them and then enjoying them regularly.