deLorimer Winery - 2006 Alexander Valley Malbec

As I continue to take an occasional look at Malbec this spring it’s time to shift away from Argentina for a moment. There’s no question that Malbec really thrives there and many fine examples exist. However you can usually find a little bit of Malbec wherever Cabernet Sauvignon and the other Bordeaux varietals are grown. The trouble is outside of Argentina not many folks are bottling it as a single varietal. It’s too bad because the ones crafted with care often make for interesting wines. Today I’ll look at a current release of California Malbec from Alexander Valley’s deLorimer Winery. The deLorimer Winery 2006 Malbec was produced from fruit sourced in Alexander Valley. The vineyard site sits more than 300 feet above sea level and it was planted in 1985. This offering is 100% Malbec. Fruit was handpicked and barrel aging took place in French oak over a period of 30 months. 400 cases of this Malbec were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $24.

The unmistakable deep, dark hue of Malbec is immediately striking. Black mission fig aromas lead the nose of this wine and are joined by little bits of vanilla bean and toasty oak. Rich, ripe, dark berry fruit is present in copious quantities throughout the palate. Black pepper and nutmeg play key roles as well. Rhubarb, cranberry and earth all emerge on the finish which shows significant length. This Malbec has firm tannins and excellent acidity.

This wine is pretty nice on its own, but it’s really primed to pair with food. Roasted meats will work particularly well. This is a really well balanced wine that will age gracefully over the next 6-8 years. That said it’s delicious now and there’s no particular reason to wait on this one. It may not be from Argentina, but it is a very fine example of Malbec.

Parducci Wine Cellars- 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Sauvignon is a variety that flourishes in a huge number of appellations throughout the world. It’s also made in an even wider range of styles and with varying intent. The prices can range from dirt cheap to astronomical. Today I’ll look at a budget priced version from Mendocino County Pioneers Parducci Wine Cellars. The Parducci Wine Cellars 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon was produced using fruit sourced at family farms throughout Mendocino County. Parducci has long championed sustainable farming and green power. They were the first producer in the US to become carbon neutral. This wine was aged for 26 months; 20% in new American oak and the balance in a combination of Redwood and stainless steel tanks. 5,000 cases of this vintage were bottled and it has a suggested retail price of $10.99.

Aromas of plum, raspberry, violet and hints of toast light up the nose of this 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. Flavors of dried cherries are complemented by a spice core through the palate of this wine. Earth, cranberry, nutmeg and white pepper are each apparent on the finish. This wine has soft, supple tannins and fine acidity.

This Cabernet Sauvignon is a good value. It’s not the most complex Cab out there, but for under $11 it’s not expected to be. This is an appealing wine that shows good fruit, will marry with red sauces, cheeses, sandwiches, you name it. And most importantly it tastes like what it should, Cabernet Sauvignon. If you shop around this wine is often available for under $10. For that price this is a solid bet as a case buy. Keep it around as a house wine and drink it over the next 2-3 years.

Cinnabar Winery - 2007 Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the two varieties I personally associate with the Santa Cruz Mountains more than any other. A host of other varietals flourish there, but the two stars of Burgundy seem to benefit the most from the unique terroir up there. Today I’ll look at a current release Chardonnay from Cinnabar Winery. The Cinnabar Winery 2007 Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay was produced using fruit sourced at two vineyard sites. The two sites sit 1,400 and 2,000 feet above sea level respectively. These vineyards were selected because they’re distinct from each other in a variety of ways. This offering is 100% Chardonnay. The fruit was all fermented in barrel. 80% of it underwent malolactic fermentation. Barrel aging occurred in French oak; 20% of the barrels were new. 300 cases of this wine were produced in the 2007 vintage. It has a suggested retail price of $29

The golden yellow hue of this Chardonnay is immediately striking and impossible to miss. An intoxicating mix of tropical and orchard fruit aromas fill the nose of this Chardonnay. Lots of apple, pear and a bit of papaya show on the palate along with baker’s spices. Apple pie crust and hints of crème brulee lead the finish which has good length and persistence. Spice notes in droves and gentle wisps of mineral, are the lasting impression from this wine which linger after the final sip has disappeared from your lips.

This is a fine example of Chardonnay. It has a purity of fruit that exemplifies the lovely wines emerging from many producers in Santa Cruz. I should also note that the use of oak on this selection was definitely judicious. It makes its presence known, but only enough to enhance all the glorious fruit. If you’re a fan of balanced California Chardonnay that showcases the fruit above all else, this wine should be on your short list.

Davis Bynum - 2009 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

When it comes to Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley is one of a small handful of places within California that it truly thrives. More regions than should, grow it and a few others also allow it to properly prosper. Davis Bynum Winery has been making Pinot from Russian River Valley fruit for close to 40 years. A couple of years ago they became part of the Rodney Strong family of properties. Considering how consistent they’ve been, the Davis Bynum tradition is in capable and trustworthy hands. Today I’ll look at their most recent release of Pinot Noir. The Davis Bynum 2009 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir was produced from several select vineyards throughout the valley. This offering is 100% Pinot Noir. After fermentation barrel aging followed for 15 months in all French oak. 5,000 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $35.

Black cherry, leather and sandalwood aromas fill the appealing nose of this 2009 Pinot Noir. Cherry, mushrooms, spice and hints of barnyard lead the palate. The story of this wine is elegance laced with precise intensity. Black Cherry fruit is in command here with flashes of red cherry and hints of wild strawberry popping in from time to time. Earth, rhubarb, sour black cherry, pomegranate and a touch of toasty oak are all part of the lengthy finish that also shows off an impressive core of spices that reverberate persistently after the last sip is swallowed.

On the one hand this wine has been of consistent quality over the last few vintages. On the other, the 2009 is an even more impressive expression of excellent Russian River Pinot Noir than the last couple. The bottom line though is that in a world where Pinot prices are sometimes out of control, this selection is a terrific value.

Hugel et Fils - 2007 Pinot Gris / 2009 Riesling Classic / 2008 Gewürztraminer

Hugel et Fils is a name that should be very familiar to US wine lovers. Their offerings have been on our shelves for many years. At a time when there were less Alsatian wines on ours shelves then there are today they were a friendly face that provided consistent quality. Even today, when our options have increased dramatically, they’re still providing solid wines vintage after vintage at competitive prices. Today I’ll look at a trio of their current releases. The Hugel et Fils 2007 Pinot Gris was produced using fruit sourced in Estate vineyards in Alsace. This offering is 100% Pinot Gris. Fermentation took place in a temperature controlled environment. This offering has a suggested retail price of $14.99. Aromas of dried white flowers fill the nose of this Pinot Gris along with hints of tangerine and orchard fruits. Golden Delicious apples are prominent on the palate and accompanied by lemon ice. Nutmeg, tart green apple, white pepper and a hint of cream are all part of the finish which shows off good length. This wine has an elegance that belies its price-point and that’s particularly evidenced by the balance and proportion it shows off. The juicy fruit flavors that fill your mouth when you taste this are balanced by solid acid and a crisp finish.

The Hugel et Fils 2009 Riesling Classic was produced from fruit sourced at Estate vineyards and parcels of land under long term contracts. All of the fruit is from vines surrounding the village of Riquewihr in Alsace. This selection is 100% Riesling. Fermentation took place in temperature controlled vats. This wine has a suggested retail price of $24.99. Apple and grapefruit aromas emerge from the nose of this Riesling. The palate shows off Asian pear, peach and continued citrus notes. Granny Smith apple emerges on the finish along with minerals and a solid spice component. Overall this wine is lean and slightly austere. It’s a lovely wine that most importantly shows off good varietal character. Personally I would most often serve this a welcome wine when guests arrive.

The Hugel et Fils 2008 Gewürztraminer was made from fruit sourced at Estate vineyards in Alsace. The fruit is hand picked and transported to the winery in small vats. This selection is 100% Gewürztraminer. Fermentation took place in temperature controlled barrels. Filtering occured just prior to bottling. This wine has a suggested retail price of $24. Lychee Fruit, apricot and hazelnut aromas each emerge prominently from the engaging nose of this 2008 Gewürztraminer. White cling peach, apricot, and nectarine are part of an explosion of stone fruits that dominate the palate of this offering. All of those rich, beguiling fruit flavors give the impression of sweetness, but this is a perfectly dry wine. Hints of tropical fruit and spices kick in as well. They lead to the finish which shows off fleshy white plum, citrus and continued wallops of spice. This wine has a long, lingering finish whose flavors persist on your tongue well after the last sip is gone. This is a really terrific example of Gewürztraminer. It’ll pair well with a wide array of foods, but is incredibly engaging and delicious all by itself.

This trio of wines represents a look at three distinct varietals that flourish in Alsace. Their flavor profiles vary greatly as do the situations they will each perform best in. While each of them represents a well made wine and a solid value the Gewürztraminer is my favorite from this trio. It’s the one I couldn’t stop drinking. Hugel et Fils continues to turn out classically styled wines from Alsace at reasonable prices. They’re also widely available across the country. These are all reasons to look to them as one of your go to producers for Alsatian wines.

Trapiche - 2007 Icons Malbec Vina Adolfo Ahumada

One of the great things about Malbec is that you can often get a reasonable example of it for a pretty decent price. Like everything else though there are also Malbecs at higher than entry level price points. In fact these days a good wine shop stocks Malbecs at almost any conceivable price. Today I’m going to look at a single vineyard effort that falls into the super premium category. The Trapiche 2007 Icons Malbec Vina Adolfo Ahumada is a single vineyard effort. All of the fruit for this wine was sourced at the La Patria vineyard. These vines sit close to 1,100 meters above sea level in the Mendoza region of Argentina. This offering is 100% Malbec. This wine was aged over 18 months in French oak. It has a suggested retail price of $55.

Boysenberry, black raspberry and spice box aromas fill the nose of this 2007 single vineyard Malbec. Blackberry and cherry flavors dominate the palate which is loaded with lots of fresh, ripe, rich, appealing dark berry fruit. An undercurrent of spice is present as well and leads to the finish. Pencil lead, espresso, earth, black pepper, nutmeg, clove, and pomegranate are all part of the finish along with lots of crushed cherry. The final notes linger persistently for an impressive overall finish. This wine has terrific structure and features firm tannins and solid acidity.

If you’re going to drink this Malbec over the next couple of years, it’s wise to decant it. It’s tight out the bottle right now and an hour or so really allows it to open up and express itself. However you could just as easily lay this down for 4-6 years and drink it in the 4-6 after that. Time will treat this wine well. This is an impressive Malbec worth every penny of its suggested retail price. A good wine to taste if you want to see the heights Malbec can achieve.

Maison Vincent - 2009 J.J. Bourgogne Blanc

Truth be told I’ve had a rocky relationship with Chardonnay over the years.  Some would say it’s love / hate. In theory I love Chardonnay. Certainly the grape itself is one of the stone cold classics; the most revered of varieties in many circles. And when Chardonnay is made in a style true to its roots and its natural essence I’m on board. Sometimes though the grape is bastardized with absurd amounts of oak, to the point that the wine in question becomes a testament to wood, not grapes; thankfully that trend seems to have lessened over the last few years. Today I’ll look at a Chardonnay firm Burgundy, a place that more often than not has treated Chardonnay with the kid gloves it deserves to achieve greatness. The Maison Vincent 2009 J.J. Bourgogne Blanc was produced from fruit sourced in southern Burgundy. This offering is 100% Chardonnay. This wine was vinified in a combination of stainless steel (67%) and French oak (33%). This selection has a suggested retail price of $18.

Fresh orchard fruit aromas and hints of biscuit emerge from this nose of this 2009 Chardonnay. Both apple and pear continue on the palate and they’re accompanied by bits of Meyer lemon and white pepper. Minerals lead the finish along with tart apple, a touch of vanilla bean and a mélange of citrus flavors. This wine is crisp and refreshing with zingy acidity.

This is a really nice example of Chardonnay and it’s also a good value for its price-point. The use of oak on this wine was judicious and it adds to the overall complexity and layers of flavors. The firm acidity helps lend this wine to being a natural partner for lighter foods.

V. Sattui Winery - 2007 Cabernet Franc

There are a handful of varietals that I find too intriguing to ever turn down. Petite Sirah and Charbono are two, the third is Cabernet Franc. What they have in common I suppose aside from being red of course, is varying degrees of scarcity. If you go from tasting room to tasting room in Napa as one example you’ll find lots of Cabernet Sauvignon. However you’ll be able to count the number of times you run across these varietals in a day on one hand. That’s only part of the story though. Lots of other varieties are even harder to come by and I don’t chase them to the ends of the earth. These wines each has something that makes them both unique and interesting in many cases. So when someone offers me a taste, it doesn’t matter when or where, I nod my head and say, “yes please.” Today I’ll look at a Cabernet Franc from Napa Valley producer V. Sattui Winery. The V. Sattui Winery 2007 Cabernet Franc was produced using fruit mostly sourced in Alexander Valley. This wine is mostly Cabernet Fran (93.8%) with small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon (3.9%) and Merlot (1.4%) blended in. The fruit came from two vineyards; most from Ramazzotti in Alexander Valley and a smaller amount from Henry Ranch on Mt Veeder. Fremenation took place in open top stainless steel. Barrel aging followed in a combination of new (50%) and used (50%) French oak. 637 cases of this selection were produced and it sells for $30.

Blueberries and plum lead the nose of this 2007 Cabernet Franc along with hints of leather. The palate is loaded with rich, layered berry flavors. Blueberry, red and black raspberry and blackberry each make their presence known. Droves of earth, cherry, pepper spice and dusty baker’s chocolate are part of the finish which has excellent length. Firm tannins yield with some air.

This wine is a fine example of Cabernet Franc. The small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon makes its presence known in the structure of this wine. This is a very solid value for $30.

Vino dei Fratelli - 2009 Nero d’Avola

Nero d’Avola isn’t one of those grapes that you hear people talking about a lot. Certainly it isn’t discussed the way people do Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese or Pinot Noir to name a few. And I suppose there are numerous reasons for that. That said this southern Italian grape should get a bit more attention than it does. The wines it produces are often good values that work well with everyday foods. Today I’ll look at one from the 2009 vintage. The Vino dei Fratelli 2009 Nero d’Avola was produced using fruit sourced in Sicily. This wine is 100% varietal. 5,000 cases of this offering were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $15.99.

Aromas of plum and black mission fig are prominent on the nose of this 2009 Nero d’Avola. Dried red and black fruit flavors dominate the palate. Earth and spice both emerge on the finish. This wine shows supple tannins and firm acidity. This selection is a natural partner for cheeses, salamis and the like.

This wine is a nice everyday value and it really represents exactly what Nero d’Avola is about in my opinion. It has rock solid acidty and pairs well with many of the foods that people eat regularly; and for less than $16 you can keep it around to enjoy often.

Examining the Age Worthiness of White Wines from Alto Adige

Last week I attended a tasting in Manhattan featuring the wines of Alto Adige. This region sits in the Italian Alps. Both red and white varieties are grown with white taking the lead at 55% of planted acreage. This two-part tasting included a walk around portion that featured tons of exciting new releases from a host of producers. Both red and white wines were showcased. That was the second part of the day; I’m going to focus on the first part. That initial piece was a 90 minute, sit-down seminar during which eight white wines were presented. The mission statement of the seminar was to illustrate the overall age-ability of white wines from Alto Adige. There are few regions in the world that produce white wines with the ability or intent of aging. The ones that have that capability however can often be transcendent. I was pretty curious to see how these wines would taste and if they really did have the as advertised potential for above average longevity. What follows are some brief thoughts about each of the eight wines we tasted. Nals Margreid 2007 Pinot Grigio Punggl DOC Alto Adige. This single vineyard wine is 100% Pinot Grigio. Half of the grapes for this wine were fermented and aged in large oak barrels, the other half in stainless steel tanks. At release this wine had a suggested retail price of $24. The 2009 is the current vintage of this particular wine. The 2007 features lots of yellow fruit flavors throughout a round and sweet but well balanced palate. It shows off the juicy flavors that are prevalent with relatively small production Pinot Grigio treated with care; as opposed to the vast array of anonymous Pinot Grigio that hits US shelves by the boatload.

Franz Haas 2004 Cuvee Manna. This wine is a blend of Riesling, Chardonnay, Traminer Aromatico and Sauvignon Blanc. The fruit was sourced from four vineyards at altitudes of 350 to 850 meters. Each lot was picked and fermented separately. The Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc saw time in Barrique while the Riesling and Traminer Aromatico were fermented in steel. The blend was assembled at final fermentation and spent 10 months on yeasts prior to bottling. 50,000 bottles of this wine were made and at release it had a retail price of $40. The stated goal of this wine is the ability to pair with as wide an array of foods as possible. Apricots, and white cling peach characteristics are dominant on this wine which is driven by intense, fresh fruit flavors. There is a bit of honey on the finish. Ultimately this offering is layered with loads of complexity. For me this was one of the most interesting wines of the day.

San Michele Appiano 2006 Pinot Grigio Sanct Valentin DOC Alto Adige. This wine was sourced from vines with 25-40 years of age on them. The vineyards selected sit approximately 450 meters above sea level. This wine was aged in a combination of new (40%) and used (60%) barriques. This offering spent 11 months on yeast. At release this wine had a suggested retail price of $35.99. Lilac, peach and a hint of petrol are all present in the nose of this wine. Apricots are prominent on the palate along with spices that carry through the finish along with minerals. This wine has terrific concentration of fruit and persistent, lingering and rather impressive length.

Caldro Castell Giovanelli 2007 Sauvignon DOC Alto Adige. The vines the fruit for this selection were sourced from average 5-10 years of age. This offering is 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Fermentation and aging took place in oak casks. At release this wine had a suggested retail price of $48. This wine is incredibly aromatic with citrus and melon fruit just exploding from the nose. The palate shows continued citrus in droves. Minerals are the story on the crisp, clean finish. This wine has racy, slightly zingy acidity.

Terlan Nova Domus 2005 Terlaner Riserva DOC Alto Adige. This wine is a blend of Pinot Blanc (60%), Chardonnay (30%), and Sauvignon Blanc (10%). The fruit was sourced from vineyards sitting between 350 and 500 meters above sea level. Fermentation took place in large oak casks (50%) and 500 Liter Tonneaux. The wine spent a year on the yeast. At release this offering had a suggested retail price of $55. Citrus and spice notes are both prominent on the finish of this wine. Stone fruits dominate the palate. The finish of this selection just goes on and on. For a 5 + year old white blend the fruit on this wine is incredibly fresh and vital. It just keeps beckoning you back for more.

Alois Lageder 2002 Chardonnay Lowengang DOC Alto Adige. The fruit for this wine was selected from vines with 40 to 60 years of age on them grown at vineyard sites sitting 260-450 meters above sea level. This was fermented using native yeasts. It was aged in a combination of new (50%) and used (50%) barriques. At release this wine had a suggested retail price of $40. Apple, limestone and minerals are all present on this wine. Its overall style in many ways brings to mind aged Burgundy. The purity of fruit and length of finish are both impressive. 

Peter Zemmer 2006 Gewürztraminer Reserve DOC Alto Adige. This wine is 100% Gewürztraminer, Fermentation took place with pure strains of yeast in temperature controlled tanks. At release this wine had a suggested retail price of $29. This wine is gloriously aromatic with spice and dried fruit and flower aromas emerging from the glass in droves. The palate of this wine is rich and layered with flavor; it's also impeccably balanced and incredibly in focus. The finish has prodigious length that features a particularly impressive spice component.

Tramin 2004 Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer DOC Alto Adige.  The Nussbaumer Estate Vineyards sit between 350 and 500 meters above sea level. This wine is 100% Gewürztraminer. Fruit for this wine was hand picked. Fermentation took place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. At release this wine had a suggested retail price of $35. Nectarine, lychee and hazelnuts fill the nose of this wine. Through the palate apricot and both white and yellow peach flavors are present in droves. This wine has a rich, layered and honeyed finish that lingers persistently. This wine has incredibly appealing flavors and you’ll be hard pressed to stop drinking this once you start.

The bottom line is that each of these selections was impressive in its own right. Taken as a group they were an impressive lineup that achieved the mission statement of showcasing the eminent age worthiness of well made white wines from the Alto Adige region of Italy. Each of them was drinking well and featured fresh flavors that belied their ages. As a group they also had more life ahead of them. Given the complexity, drinkability and obvious longevity these particular wines as well as the current vintages are well worth your time, effort and money.

Antinori Agricola Bramasole La Braccesca - 2006 Syrah Cortona DOC

Syrah is one of those varieties that belong to the world. What I mean is that it flourishes in quite a few places and the expression of it can be wildly different and yet quite valid. Syrah gown in California, France and Australia often has very little in common, flavor profile wise. Italy isn’t the first, or even the second place I think of when this grape comes to mind, but there are some pretty interesting examples of this varietal emerging from there. Today I’ll look at a release from Antinori, one of the classic Italian producers. The Antinori Agricola Bramasole La Braccesca 2006 Syrah Cortona DOC was produced using fruit sourced at La Braccesca estate vineyards. This offering is 100% Syrah. After fermentation it was aged in new barrique for 14 months followed by 12 months of bottle aging prior to release. This wine has a suggested retail price of around $44 but is currently on sale at WineChateau.com for just under $26.

Black cherry, blueberry, nutmeg, clove and allspice aromas are joined by hints of herbs on the nose of this 2006 Italian Syrah. A combination of fresh ripe fruit flavors intermingles with more prominent dry fruit characteristics throughout the palate of this wine. Blackberry and black raspberry flavors are particularly prominent along continuing cherry elements. Minerals, black tea, spice, smoked meats and rhubarb all emerge along with copious quantities of chocolate covered cherries on the velvety and persistent finish. This wine is balanced by firm acidity.

This is a nice Syrah that will pair well with a pretty wide array of foods. Full flavored dishes will be a particularly good match. That said this wine drinks well on its own. If you like Syrah, this is a good value and an interesting wine, give it a shot.

Franciscan Estate - 2009 Sauvignon Blanc / 2009 Chardonnay

In the early 90’s when I first started visiting Napa Valley a handful of producers were of specific interest to me. I’d visit them time and again because they had one or more wines that I enjoyed regularly and I was also always eager to taste smaller production things that I couldn’t get on my shelf back home. Franciscan Estate was one of those producers. Their Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay were the three wines I drank with the most regularity, but I really enjoyed the majority of their portfolio quite a bit. As happens from time to time they slipped off my radar a bit of late. The number of wines out there are practically dizzying in number, making it difficult to always go back and revisit. So when current releases of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc from Franciscan landed on my desk recently it felt like it does when an old friend you haven’t seen in awhile calls or rings your doorbell, or these days, pokes you on Facebook. Regardless of how they reach out, the reaction is usually the same you want to know how they’re doing. And that was exactly what I was wondering about Franciscan Estate. So today I’ll take a look at their latest vintage of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. The Franciscan Estate 2009 Sauvignon Blanc was produced using fruit sourced exclusively in Napa Valley. This offering is 100% Sauvignon Blanc. The wine was fermented in a combination of stainless steel (90%) and neutral oak (10%). Just fewer than 4,000 cases of this wine were bottled and it has a suggested retail price of $17.

A host of herbaceous aromas are joined by citrus and vanilla bean in the nose of this Sauvignon Blanc. Meyer lemon and grapefruit characteristics lead the palate. Along the way tropical fruit flavors such as papaya and guava are in evidence as well along with bits of gooseberry. White pepper spice, minerals and continued citrus flavors are all part of a lingering finish which is clean, crisp and refreshing.

This Sauvignon Blanc would be an excellent choice to pair with entrée salads, light appetizers and soft cheeses to name a handful of examples. It‘s tasty on its own as well, but really excels to a higher level with food. This is a very appealing wine that will both appease a large crowd of general wine drinkers and also satisfy the Sauvignon Blanc lovers amongst them.

The Franciscan Estate 2009 Chardonnay was produced using fruit sourced in Carneros and southern Napa Valley. This wine is 100% Chardonnay. Fermentation took place in barrel followed by 7 months of aging in small French and American oak barrels; 20% of them were new. Just fewer than 59,000 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $18.

Orchard fruit aromas fill the nose of this Chardonnay. Vanilla bean and hints of toast are present as well to a smaller degree. Both pear and apple flavors are in evidence throughout the palate along with a bit of orange zest. Baker’s spices provide some tongue tingling complexity. Hints of creaminess emerge on the finish and the orchard fruit flavors continue along with a bit of pie crust and a touch of citrus.

This Chardonnay is an impeccably balanced wine. The influence of oak adds the perfect counterpoint to all the terrific fruit flavors. Everything is kept in balance by vital, racy acidity. This wine like the Sauvignon Blanc is delicious on its own but will flourish when paired with food.

Checking in with these new releases from Franciscan Estate it’s good to see that they’re still producing wines that show off their fruit beautifully. Each of these wines is widely available through the US and if you shop around you’ll find them for a bit less than suggested retail. These are both tasty wines and solid values.

Robert Mondavi Winery - 2009 Moscato D’Oro

The Robert Mondavi Winery 2009 Moscato D’Oro is a single vineyard effort. All of the fruit for this dessert wine was sourced at the Wappo Hill Vineyard in Napa Valley’s Stags Leap District. This wine is 100% Muscat Canelli. The fruit was hand-picked over several days so that each lot would bring in different flavor profiles. Fermentation was stopped with chilling and filtration right after the sugar level dipped below 11%. This wine saw no oak treatment. The alcohol content is just above 8%. This wine is bottled in 375ml splits and has a suggested retail price of $25; it is current selling through the winery’s website for $20. As is typical to the Muscat Canelli grape this dessert wine from the Mondavi Winery is highly aromatic. Tropical fruit aromas carry the day. Mango and papaya play roles along with lychee, and guava is present as well. These characteristics carry on through the palate where they’re joined by peach, apricot, nectarine and white plum. Those flavors continue through the finish where hints of tangerine are also present along with a wisp of white pepper. This is one dessert wine that is refreshing and crisp. When that final note dissipates it beckons you back to the glass for another sip

The 2009 Moscato D’Oro is a truly gorgeous wine. What I love about it most is that it does an impeccable job of balancing sweetness and light. All of the glorious ripe fruit flavors are on display prominently. The requisite sweetness is perfectly balanced by terrific acidity. This wine can easily be dessert all by itself. However it’ll pair perfectly with a fruit tart or an Italian style Ricotta based cheesecake.

Michael Torino Estate - 2010 Cuma Malbec

I’ve been tasting through quite a few Malbecs lately and I’ll present some of the noteworthy ones here every week or so for a couple of months. Argentina’s Michael Torino Estate makes several tiers of wine. One of those tiers is Cuma. This word means clean and pure in Aymara a local language that predates the Inca’s. This range represents their organic offerings. Today I’ll look at the Malbec from that tier. In addition to Malbec they also produce a Cabernet Sauvignon and a Torrontes in that range. The Michael Torino Estate 2010 Cuma Malbec was produced from grapes certified to be organic. The fruit was sourced in the Cafayate Valley region. This offering is 100% Malbec. This wine has a suggested retail price of $12.99.

When you pour this Malbec it’s impossible not to notice the beautiful purple hue that’s tinged with bits of red. Aromas of sweet red and black jam along with vanilla bean fill the nose of this 2010 Malbec. The word juicy is the first that comes to mind when tasting this wine. Crushed red cherries and black mission fig flavors fill the palate. An undercurrent of spice kicks in and leads to the finish which shows off a bit of sweet dark chocolate and continued spice. Sufficient acidity keeps things in check.

There are a few things I really like about this Malbec. One is the overall juiciness of the wine. The other is the purity of fruit which is persistent from the first sip until the last. It’s loaded with flavors but nicely balanced and easy to drink in the best sense of that expression. The bottom line is that it outclasses its price-point.

Cinnabar Winery - 2006 Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon

More and more over the last few years I’ve been impressed with wines from the Santa Cruz Mountains. I’ve taken a few looks at some wines from Cinnabar and the time has come to revisit them. Cinnabar Winery has a history there that dates to 1983. The name of the winery comes from the belief of 14th century alchemists that they could use the mineral Cinnabar to transform everyday metals into gold. Cinnabar Winery founder Tom Mudd applied that magical thought to winemaking. In total Cinnabar Winery produces approximately 17,000 cases per year. Incorporated in that are three lines or tiers of wines. The Cinnabar Winery 2006 Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon was produced using hand picked fruit from two parts of the Santa Cruz Mountains. This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Oak aging took place over 30 months in small French Barrels. The final wine was assembled from a cuvee of select barrels. A mere 198 cases of this offering were bottled and it sells for $45.

Heady dark fruit aromas lead the nose of this 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon. Spice notes such as clove, vanilla and a hint of thyme underlie them in a firm supporting role. The palate shows off rich dark fruits that are filled with mountain grown intensity and concentration. Black cherry dominates with blackberry and blueberry fruit playing secondary roles along with a host of spices. Toasty oak, black pepper and wisps of nutmeg are all part of the finish which features terrific persistence. Firm tannins yield with some air and everything is kept in check by terrific acidity.

This is a fine example of Cabernet Sauvignon and an equally compelling illustration of the excellent wines being produced from Santa Cruz Mountains Fruit. If you drink this wine over the next couple of years I’d plan to decant it for 90 minutes and pair it with hearty for best results. However if you have some patience I’d lay this wine down for 5-8 years and drink it in the 5 after that. In either case you can’t go wrong this is a terrific Cabernet Sauvignon.

Trapiche Broquel - 2009 Pinot Noir

South America has been coming on strong with Pinot Noir. It’s perhaps the most fickle of all red varieties. Where it’s grown and how it’s treated after that is often the source of great debate. When Pinot Noir is well made it can inspire great acclaim and adulation. Trapiche is an Argentine producer that has broad range of wines in its portfolio. Their offerings run the gamut of styles, disciplines, and price points. Today I’ll look at the current release Pinot Noir in their Broquel line. The Trapiche Broquel 2009 Pinot Noir was produced using fruit sourced in the Mendoza region of Argentina. Some (70%) of the fruit was de-stemmed and the balance (30%) was vinified with stems. The wine was aged on the lees in French oak for a period of nine months. This offering is 100% Pinot Noir and it has a suggested retail price of $15.

Dark cherry, leather and mushroom aromas fill the nose of this 2009 Pinot Noir. Hints of plum and wild strawberry are apparent on the palate. However these are secondary to the oodles of black cherry flavors that dominate. Earth, black tea, hints of cola and bits of vanilla, white pepper and clove cinnamon are present on the finish which has good persistence. This wine has yielding tannins and firm acidity.

For $15 (less if you shop around) this wine represents a nice value in Pinot Noir. It’s well made, presenting a flavor profile that is authentic to Pinot Noir. It’s quite tasty by itself but will pair with a wide range of foods.

Hugel et Fils - 2008 Pinot Blanc “Cuvée Les Amours”

Pinot Blanc is one of those grape varieties that often enough confuses those unfamiliar with it. Some are unsure what it is and how it varies from Pint Gris for instance. And that’s a fair enough question since it is a genetic derivative of Pinot Gris. Taste-wise however there can be a wide gulf. While there are certainly a few other notable regions that have traditionally grown Pinot Blanc, Alsace is without question the area it’s most associated with. Today I’ll look at a current release of a Pinot Blanc from Hugel et Fils. The Hugel et Fils 2008 Pinot Blanc “Cuvée Les Amours” is an Alsatian white wine that has been a mainstay on US shelves since the early 1970’s. This offering was produced from fruit sourced at a number of vineyards in Alsace. It is composed 100% of Pinot Blanc. This wine in 375 ml half bottles sells for approximately $10.

Fresh orchard fruit aromas fill the nose of this 2008 Pinot Blanc. The palate shows off lots of apple. Golden delicious notes alternate with wisps of green apple. Vanilla and ginger provide subtle hints of spice. The wine is ultimately crisp and refreshing with firm acidity. It keeps you coming back to the glass for more. It works nicely in its own and will also pair with a host of lighter foods and dishes.

This is a lovely light wine that works well as a welcome wine or as the first wine at the start of a meal. It's crisp, mouth-watering and a nice way to get a party started.

Reconsiderng a Napa Valley Legend; Robert Mondavi Winery

As we’ve grown precipitously as a wine drinking nation over the last couple of decades our choices have also increased. The number of outlets selling wine is way up and the options we have once we go there are in sharp contrast to what was available a number of years ago. The temptation in our culture is also to chase the new hot thing. Sometimes that leaves little room to reconsider or reconnect with something we already love. In this case that something is the Robert Mondavi Winery. There was no greater ambassador for both California wines and the importance of wine on our tables in this country than Robert Mondavi. Napa Valley and perhaps the entire US wine industry would look radically different today if not for the chances he took and the advances, in quality and more, that he championed. In the sea of wine that’s out there it’s easy to forget that. Recently I had the opportunity to taste through some current and older releases with winemaker Genevieve Janssens.

Tasting both new offerings and an older Cabernet Sauvignon really showed off the quality of winemaking that is still going on at this venerable Napa Valley house. A particular standout was the 2007 I Block Fume Blanc. This wine is made in tiny quantities (207 cases) and sourced from a specific block of the To Kalon vineyard. It was one of the more impressive Sauvignon Blancs I’ve tasted in quite awhile. At three plus years old it’s fresh and vibrant and still has plenty of life ahead of it. It’s only available through the winery (SRP $75) and well worth the extra effort to get it.

The event took place at Hearth Restaurant in New York and this allowed us to taste these wines as they are meant to be consumed; side by side with food. I sampled the 2008 Napa Valley Chardonnay with a rotating cast of different appetizers. This wine was produced with fruit sourced in Carneros (58%), East Napa foothills (29%), Sonoma County (10%), other Napa vineyards (3%). 69% of the juice was fermented in barrel; 13% of them were new. The balance was fermented in stainless steel. This Chardonnay which is widely available has a suggested retail price of $20. Orchard fruit aromas fill the nose of this wine along with a hint of spice. Golden delicious apple, pear, pineapple and guava all make their presence know through the palate. Minerals, apple pie crust and baker’s spice are each part of the finish which has impressive length for a Chardonnay in this price category. The use of oak here was judicious and it adds to the complexity, as opposed to some Chardonnays where it becomes a distraction. The bottom line is that this wine pairs well with a wide array of different foods and also drinks beautifully on its own. It’s one of the work horses in the Mondavi portfolio and it’s well worth trying if you haven’t had it in awhile.

Two vintages of the Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon were impressive for different reasons. The 1996 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is an excellent example of the age worthiness of good Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon. Most (79%) of the fruit for it came from Oakville; much of it from To Kalon. When Robert Mondavi spoke of comparing Napa wines to his French counterparts it was wines like the reserve Cabernet that I bet he had in mind. This wine still has plenty of fruit on it, but it’s also become earthier and softer. It’s a pleasure to drink both with food and without.

The Robert Mondavi Winery 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon was made entirely with fruit from Oakville and 93% of it from To Kalon. This wine is bigger, bolder and a bit brasher today. It has firm tannins that need some time in the bottle or some aeration to soften a bit. The elements which make the 1996 so drinkable today are also there in the 2007. It’s simply loaded with fruit and spice flavors that are accented by the time spent in barrel. Just less than 10,000 cases were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $135. Ultimately, the 2007 has the hallmarks of a wine that promises to be an even more impressive effort than the 1996. The question after purchasing it is if you have patience. It’s very enjoyable now, particularly with full flavored foods. However if you give it 5 or 10 years of proper storage you’ll be rewarded with a slightly mellower, more resolved wine that will just knock your socks off. You really can’t go wrong either way, it depends which experience you prefer.

Tasting these wines and several others with food, over a leisurely evening made a couple of facts crystal clear. Most importantly if you haven’t had wines from the flagship Robert Mondavi Winery in Napa Valley for a while, it’s high time to revisit them. Their releases still showcase some of the best that Napa Valley has to offer. This was apparent both in widely available wines like the Chardonnay and Cabernet as well as small production items like the I Block Fume Blanc. The other point is that as much attention as the To Kalon Vineyard gets, it should probably get more. The wines that were sourced there show off a tremendous sense of place and are simply impressive efforts. Genevieve Janssens who has been making the wines at Robert Mondavi Winery since 1997 (she worked at Opus One previously) is doing an impressive job shepherding the philosophy of Mr. Mondavi into the future. The best way to thank her for that effort is to taste these wines.

Astica - 2010 Malbec / Falling Star - 2009 Malbec

Everyone is always on the hunt for values, and these days it seems that’s truer than ever. Argentina is a country that has been providing value driven wines for a long time now. Seemingly at every conceivable price-point there are wines to be had that over deliver on what you spend. When it comes to red varieties, Malbec is a great source of diversity and value. There are a myriad number of Malbec styles and designations from all over Argentina in a wide array of prices. Over the next month or so I’ll be looking at a diverse array of Malbecs. Today I’ll start with a couple that will fit into any wine budget. First up is the Astica 2010 Malbec. This wine was produced using fruit sourced in the Cuyo region of Argentina. The fruit for this release was hand harvested. This 2010 Malbec has a suggested retail price of $5.99.

A big and immediate whiff of vanilla bean opens the nose of this Malbec. Raspberry, cedar and a touch of eucalyptus follow. Cherry, plum, and raspberry notes are part of the palate with both fresh and dried fruit characteristics playing a role. Towards the finish the fruit flavors take on a fleshy feel and they’re joined by continued vanilla, hints of cranberry and white pepper. This wine has good acidity and is made for enjoyment in its youth when all of the appealing upfront fruit flavors are at their peak.

Today’s second wine is the Falling Star 2009 Malbec. The fruit for this selection was sourced in the Mendoza region.  Half of the fruit was fermented at high temperatures while the other half underwent traditional fermentation. This offering is 100% Malbec and has a suggested retail price of $5.99.

Dark jam fruit aromas as well as toast and vanilla are part of the nose on this 2009 Malbec from Falling Star. The palate of this wine is incredibly juicy with super appealing black fruit flavors. Blackberry pie and blueberry are of particular note. The finish has more than reasonable length for a wine in this price-point. The dark fruits continue and they’re joined by hints of clove and white pepper. This is a sturdy Malbec with lots of crowd appeal. BBQ season is fast approaching and this wine is an excellent one to have on hand for your own entertaining as well as to bring to a friend’s house. For less than $6 a bottle it’s definitely a bargain and a wine you might want to consider a case buy on. It has more flavor, depth and value than similarly priced “critter wines” that aim for a similar spot on your wine rack. Consume this wine over the next two years to get the most of its youthful bravado.

Both of these wines are fine examples of the value available in entry level Malbecs from Argentina. That’s just the tip of the iceberg though. Stay tuned as I continue looking at a variety of Malbecs over the next handful of weeks.

deLorimer Winery - 2006 Alexander Valley Sangiovese

Sangiovese is one of the classic varietals of Italy. It really thrives as a true workhorse grape there forming the backbone of wines in numerous regions throughout the country. Outside of Italy however Sangiovese hasn’t always done as well. Often times growers and producers outside of Italy make the wine in a style that isn’t true to the essence of this wonderful grape. From time to time though I run across an example of Sangiovese, from outside Italy, which captures the true spirit and soul of this legendary grape. Today I’ll look at such an offering from a producer in Alexander Valley. The deLorimer Winery 2006 Alexander Valley Sangiovese was made from fruit sourced in a vineyard planted in 1982. That Alexander valley vineyard sits at an elevation of 310 feet above sea level. In addition to Sangiovese (86%), this wine also contains Cabernet Sauvignon (14%). Grapes for this selection were hand harvested. After fermentation this wine was barrel aged in French oak over a period of 30 months. 190 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $29.

Rose petals, leather, cigar box and red fruit aromas light up the nose of this 2006 Alexander Valley Sangiovese. Throughout the palate dried cherry fruit flavors carry the day. Red delicious apple notes play a role as well along with an undercurrent of darker berry fruit. Nutmeg, clove, cinnamon, earth and espresso are all part of a lengthy finish which turns slightly lusty as the vibrant flavors go on for awhile.

This is one of the better examples of Sangiovese from California I’ve sampled. It’s true to its varietal, and with the generous dollop of Cabernet Sauvignon, shows some of the tendencies and structure of a Super Tuscan style wine. It’s very well balanced and will drink well for the next 5-6 years at minimum. This is without question a food lover’s dream wine. Pair it with strong cheeses, roasted meats or pasta in red sauce for excellent results.