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Archive for the ‘Cabernet Sauvignon’ Category

A Couple of The Reasons I Love Rodney Strong Vineyards

Posted by Gabe on April 25, 2013

Rodney Strong Vineyards is one of the single most important producers in Sonoma County. The breadth of their portfolio, consistency of quality and general availability of their wines across the country assure that wine lovers everywhere have releases they can count on. Some producers focus on a couple of small lot wines, others a wide array of offerings made in massive quantities and still others fall into places somewhere between that. In a sense Rodney Strong does a little bit of all of that and then some; the key though is that they do it all very well, almost impossibly so.

One of the concepts that they have embraced for a number of years now is the Winery within a Winery. I recently visited with winemaker Greg Morthole and toured this facility; getting an inside peek of what goes on there. Greg has been part of the winemaking team at Rodney Strong for 8 years and he provided some valuable insights into their operation. In a sense this sub-facility makes what one would think of as a reserve tier wines. The highest end, smaller lot wines are made there. By creating a smaller facility on the Rodney Strong property a team can dedicate themselves to shepherding these wines from vine to bottle. This includes offerings like the single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons such as Brothers Ridge, Rockaway and Alexander’s Crown and their proprietary blend Symmetry, not to mention the Davis Bynum Wines which became part of the Rodney Strong family a few years back. Working in a smaller (but not small by any means) facility allows the team to focus on specific lots and highlight the best of the best for the most premium offerings in their portfolio. I spent a good chunk of time with Greg tasting through barrel samples and getting an idea of what they look for when they create the blends for these wines.

After my visit I then decided to take a look at some of the releases currently on the shelf, a way of backing up my work in the “classroom” with Greg by tasting current offerings of released wines. Wanting to have a bit of a common thread I chose three wines from the 2010 vintage; in each case Cabernet Sauvignon is the predominant varietal. Each comes from a different tier in their lineup.

First up is the Rodney Strong Vineyards 2010 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon. This offering was produced from Cabernet fruit sourced in various parts of Sonoma County. After fermentation this wine spent 18 months aging in a combination of French and American oak barrels. This widely available release has a suggested retail price of $20. Red fruit aromas such as wild strawberry and cherry are prevelant on the nose along with bits of toast and vanilla. Those characteristics carry through the palate along with red raspberry, black cherry and hints of espresso. The solid finish shows off minerals, rhubarb, black pepper and clove. This Cabernet has soft, supple tannins. The Sonoma County Cabernet is an easy drinking wine in the best sense of that term, while showing off more than sufficient true varietal character and depth for its category. Also considering its most often available for closer to $12 this is a value that’s difficult to beat in California Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Rodney Strong Vineyards 2010 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was from fruit sourced exclusively in the namesake appellation. After fermentation this wine spent close to 17 months in a combination of French and American oak barrels. This widely available wine has a suggested retail price of $28. Deep, dark fruit aromas permeate the nose of this Alexander Valley Cabernet. On the palate black fruits continue to dominate but wisps of red fruit flavors pipe through here and there as well. The palate shows off a depth and purity of fruit with blackberry and black cherry leading the way. Chocolate, dust, spices galore and espresso are all part of the finish which has terrific length, depth and precision. The Alexander Valley Cabernet has firm, chewy tannins, terrific acidity and lots of delicious fruit wrapped up in a well proportioned package. This wine most often sells for right around $18. It’s a prime example of how Rodney Strong Vineyards hits it out of the park year after year. There are Cabernets in both Napa and Sonoma selling for $50 that simply aren’t as good as this wine is one vintage after the next. Quite simply it’s an awesome value and a terrific example of Alexander Valley Cabernet.

The Rodney Strong Vineyards 2010 Symmetry Red Meritage was produced from fruit sourced in Alexander Valley. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (75%), this blend also contains Malbec (12%), Cabernet Franc (10%), Merlot (2%), and Petit Verdot 1%).The fruit was hand harvested and each lot was fermented and barreled separately. After it spent ½ a year in oak, each lot was tasted and from the best of the best, Symmetry was assembled and then returned to barrel for 15 additional months of oak aging. This offering has a suggested retail price of $60 but is often available for close to $45. Hints of crème fraiche support more vigorous aromas of plum and toast on the nose of the 2010 Symmetry. Blackberry and raspberry flavors are prominent on the palate along with an absolute avalanche of cherry flavors (both red and black). A host of sweet and savory spice notes are also present and carry through the lengthy finish along with chicory, chocolate sauce and hints of sour fruit. Symmetry has excellent, length, depth of palate and persistence of flavor from the first through the last sip. One vintage after another there is a consistency of quality and general style to this wine which makes it a wonderful sure-bet for a special occasion or relaxed Sunday Dinner with Family and Friends. The bottom line for me is that Symmetry really is a shining example of the small lot winemaking facility at Rodney Strong. All of the techniques such as hand harvesting, berry sorting, lot selection and more are utilized to make world class wines that speak of their origins within specific appellations of Sonoma County.

What continues to impress me about them as a producer is that whether it’s an under $10 Chardonnay or a $75 single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon you’re getting value and quality for your money. The intent of all of these wines is different and often so is the intended target audience but being able to count on one producer to offer so many good choices is quite frankly inspiring and a boon for consumers. For those of us who live close to great wine shops we’re often spoiled with a litany of selections from all over. Not everyone has that at their fingertips and therefore it’s a feather in their cap that you can walk into a decent wine shop just about anywhere in America and find quite a few of the Rodney Strong wines and count on the fact that they’re going to be delicious, quality wines that well represent their varietal and Sonoma County; as well as being sold at a fair price for what they represent. Some producers can do this on the low end of the spectrum and others do it in the premium or super premium category, Rodney Strong Vineyards manages to do this in all of those categories. It’s a notable feat that should be mentioned often, particularly in a world where we have so many choices; if it says Rodney Strong on it, spend your money with confidence!

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Trione Vineyards and Winery – 2011 Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc / 2008 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Posted by Gabe on April 13, 2013

For more than 30 years the Trione Family has been growing and selling grapes in Sonoma County from their own property as well as vineyards they manage. In 2005 they launched Trione Vineyards & Winery to bottle their own wines. They hired Scot Covington as winemaker. He brings both winemaking experience in Sonoma County and elsewhere to the table as well as winery building and design knowledge. A couple of months ago I was really impressed with some of their then current releases. Here’s a look at a couple of more recent ones.

The Trione Vineyards and Winery 2011 Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc was produced from fruit sourced at River Road Ranch. This vineyard is 115 acres in size. The vines have between 2 and 12 years of age on them. Fermentation took place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks using select South African yeast. 4 months of aging in neutral French oak followed. 600 cases of this vintage were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $23. Lemon, minerals and a touch of grass imbue the nose of this Sauvignon Blanc. The palate has good weight and is loaded with lemon-lime, spices such as white pepper and continued mineral elements. The finish here is crisp and clean with a nice bite of acid. Mineral characteristics continue here along with ginger, pepper and touch of vanilla. The end of each sip inspires another one as this wine beckons you back to the glass for more. This is a gorgeous Sauvignon Blanc built to pair with light foods.

Trione Vineyards and Winery 2008 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was produced utilizing fruit sourced at a single vineyard. The Cloverdale Ranch sits in the northern part of Alexander Valley amongst the Mayacamas Mountains. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (85%), small amounts of Merlot (9%), Cabernet Franc (2%), Petit Verdot (2%), and Malbec (2%) were blended in. Each lot was vinified and aged in barrel separately over 12 months. After blending an additional 12 months in French oak followed. Just fewer than 1,200 6 bottle cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $64. Violets, vanilla bean and dark fruit aromas fill the nose of this Cabernet Sauvignon.  Dark fruit characteristics continue through the palate where black cherry, currant and bits of blackberry are all present along with pepper and cardamom. Wisps of blueberry and plum emerge on the lengthy finish along with earth and mineral elements. Firm tannins yield with some air and are part of the wines fine structure. This Cabernet is well suited to pair with rich, bold foods. If you’re drinking it over the next couple of years I recommend decanting it for 90 minutes or so. Otherwise lay it down for 5 or more years and you’ll be richly rewarded for your patience.

Trione Vineyards and Winery is making some lovely wines. These are two more examples. If you enjoy vineyard driven wines made in relatively small lots with care and precision that speak of their origins, give them a shot.

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Ravenswood Winery – 2008 Pickberry Red

Posted by Gabe on March 23, 2013

ravenswood_logoRavenswood Winery under the direction of Joel Peterson became known for Zinfandel. Whether it’s cuvee style offerings from different appellations or single vineyard wines, to this day Ravenswood has a Zinfandel for just about every budget and palate. And in addition to Zinfandel they make some other wines of note too. Most of these are small production offerings that are found in better wine shops and some restaurant wine lists. One of these is Pickberry Red; I’ll look at the current release today.

The Ravenswood 2008 Pickberry Red is a single vineyard effort. All of the fruit was sourced at the namesake vineyard which is located on Sonoma Mountain. This offering is a blend of Merlot (59%), Cabernet Sauvignon (39%), Malbec (1%) and Petit Verdot (1%). This wine was aged over 22 months in entirely French oak; 22% of the barrels utilized were new. 600 cases were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $50.

Dark fruits such as black cherry and plum fill the nose of Pickberry Red. The palate is also loaded with deep, inky fruit flavors which are simultaneously intense, layered and proportionate. Black cherry characteristics lead the way along with black raspberry and blueberry playing roles as well. Minerals and spice offer a nice counterpoint. Earth, violets and black pepper are all part of the finish which has terrific persistence. This wine has chewy tannins that soften with some air and firm acidity at its backbone. While the 2008 Pickberry Red is delicious today it’s built for the long haul. If you have the patience to lay this down for 8-12 years you’ll be justly rewarded. This is a new world wine that brings to mind old world flavors and style. Pair it with a delicious meal for best results.

Posted in Blends, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Wine | Leave a Comment »

California Meritage and Franciscan’s Magnificat Turn Twenty Five

Posted by Gabe on March 5, 2013

Last week Franciscan Estate threw what amounted to a birthday party, for Magnificat their flagship wine, in Manhattan at Calliope Restaurant. I was glad to be in attendance at this event which showcased the Franciscan Bordeaux blend. Bordeaux blends have been made all over the world for many years, including in Napa. However, it has now been 25 years since the term Meritage was introduced and along with it Franciscan’s first vintage of Magnificat. As such it was a noteworthy milestone to mark, and an excellent reason to take a look at Magnificat alongside some of its peers. Franciscan Winemaker Jay Turnipseed was on hand to speak about his wines as well as to offer some insight in a general sense about all of the Bordeaux inspired wines.

Those peers helped make the event particularly interesting. They were part of a blind tasting of six wines composed of Bordeaux varietals from around the world; Magnificat was of course amongst their number. Tasting them blind was a fine exercise in testing each of our abilities to nail regional characteristics and styles. The sense I got was that most of us gathered had about 2/3 of the regions picked out correctly. All of the blends tasted were from the 2009 vintage. The regions in play were New Zealend, Bordeaux (Left and Right Banks), Walla Walla Washington, South Africa and of course Napa Valley. I was pretty happy getting 4 out of 6 regions correct. The Magnificat stood out to me immediately probably for a few reasons, not the least of which being I’ve been drinking it consistently since the 90’s.

After the blind tasting we sat down to dinner where we were poured several Franciscan wines. This included the current vintage of Magnificat again, side by side with the 2003. The older vintage was actually darker in color that the 2009. Often at about 10 years old the color starts to morph a bit, but this wine was vibrant in color and flavors. While it certainly has a number of years of enjoyable drinking to come, The 2003 Magnificat is in a really lovely place right now. Secondary characteristics have started to kick in and the fruit flavors are ever so slightly tamed. Earth and espresso bean were prominent on the finish.

The current release is the Franciscan Estate 2009 Magnificat. This vintage is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignn (64%), Merlot (26%), Petit Verdot (5%), Cabernet Franc (3%), and Malbec (2%).It was fermented and macerated over a 22 day period. Barrel aging followed over 20 months in French oak; 70% of the barrels were new. Just over 6,000 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $50. Booming, black fruit aromas emerge from the nose of this wine. The flavors are ripe and eager. Blackberry, raspberry and cherry flavors are all in evidence. There’s dark chocolate and chicory on the lengthy finish along with black pepper and a hint of nutmeg and vanilla bean. The 2009 Magnificat does an excellent job of threading the needle. It’s powerful and elegant at the same time. The flavors are big but never over the top and the tannins firm but not overpowering. In short this is an excellent vintage of Magnificat a wine that is one of the standard bearers of Meritage. It’s delicious today but there’s no need to rush, it will certainly drink well for the next 15 years if stored properly.

Tasting the current vintage of Magnificat alongside counterpart wines from around the world, another vintage of Magnificat and several other Franciscan wines throughout the night really helped showcase its beauty. Happy Birthday Magnificat!

Posted in Blends, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Dinner with Cuvaison Winemaker Steve Rogstad

Posted by Gabe on February 26, 2013

Cuvaison Winery has a history in Napa Valley that dates back to 1969. However they were reset in 1979 when the Schmidheiny family from Switzerland purchased the property. A decade ago they built a new facility in Carneros under the stewardship of winery president Jay Schuppert and winemaker Steve Rogstad, who both joined on in 2002 and are still onboard. Previous to that the wines were made in Calistoga where they still own a facility and a satellite tasting room. Last week I had the opportunity to have dinner with Steve Rogstad at Tocqueville. We tasted through the core releases as well as a couple of wines made from the Brandlin Estate on Mount Veeder. My thoughts on my favorite wines from the evening follow.

The Cuvaison 2011 Estate Chardonnay Carneros is their flagship offering. It makes up roughly 75% of their total production which varies between 40 and 50,000 cases from one vintage to the next. The fruit for this wine came from 44 distinct blocks within their Estate. Each lot was picked and vinified separately. This Chardonnay was barrel fermented and aged in French oak for 8 months; 20% of the barrels utilized were new. This widely available wine has a suggested retail price of $25. This is a gorgeous Chardonnay with clean and crisp flavors. Apple aromas lead the nose and carry on to the palate. Tropical fruit flavors join in as well with pineapple and guava of particular note. Spice, minerals and a little kiss of crème fraiche emerge on the finish which has nice length. It is classic example of well made Carneros Chardonnay that allows the fruit to shine brilliantly through. This wine is a very solid value at its price point.

The Cuvaison 2011 Kite Tail Chardonnay is produced each year from a single block. This block is planted to the Wente clone. The fruit was hand harvested and whole cluster pressed. It was fermented and aged in barrel over 15 months in French oak; 50% of the barrels utilized were new. This wine has a suggested price of $42. Hints of smoke and toast light up the nose of this Chardonnay along with bits of orchard fruit. The flavors here are more concentrated and have a greater intensity. Apple and pear are in strong evidence along with a bit of mango. Bits of toasted almond, and copious spices such as nutmeg and white pepper emerge on the finish which has substantial length. Tasting these two Chardonnays side by side is a tiny little window into how diverse this grape is. In this case multiple factors play in to the distinction. Both wines are delicious and interesting in their own right.

The Cuvaison 2011 Estate Pinot Noir Carneros was produced with fruit sourced from 20 distinct blocks within the Winery Estate. Each block was vinified separately. Barrel aging took place over 11 months in small oak barrels; 30% of them were new. This wine has a suggested retail price of $38. Fresh red fruit aromas fill the nose of this Pinot Noir. Bing cherry and strawberry characteristics are at play on the palate along with a bit of cinnamon and black pepper spice. Raspberry emerges on the finish along with wisps of rhubarb and earth. As a counterpoint to the Estate Chardonnay this is an equally engaging and well made example of Carneros Pinot.

The Brandlin Estate Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon is largely varietal (94%), with small amounts of Petit Verdot (4%), Malbec (1%) and Cabernet Franc (1%) blended in. This wine was aged over 22 months in French oak; 50% of the barrels utilized were new. This wine has a suggested retail price of $55. Cuvaison purchased this property, which has been farmed by the Brandlin family since the 1870’s in the late 90’s. This is a historic Napa vineyard whose history they honor by name and in practice. Less than 40 of the 170 acres have been planted to vine. There’s a ton of excellent Cabernet Sauvignon in NapaValley. Personally I think some of the most compelling examples are made from mountain fruit. This selection from Brandlin is no exception. Black fruit aromas dominate the nose along with hints of toast. This is a young Cabernet and it’s a bit tight out of the bottle right now. It opens up nicely with some air and shows off blackberry and raspberry fruit flavors as well as hints of cocoa. Earth and black pepper emerge on the finish which has good length. This wine has firm, gripping tannins and solid structure. It’s tasty now but will be even better a few years from now. This is a nice example of Mt. Veeder Cabernet.

The connective tissue with the wines Steve Rogstad is making for Cuvaison and their Mount Veeder Property Brandlin is proportion. These are lovely, vineyard-driven wines that pair well with a wide array of foods and quite frankly life in general. Each wine is distinct yet it’s clear the guiding hand and winery principles employed at Cuvaison have led to the creation and maintaining of an impressive portfolio that leads with their property in Carneros and the beautiful grapes that are grown there. Add to that the rugged Cabernet and other Bordeaux varietals of Mt. Veeder and the picture of a producer that lets their properties speak through the bottle emerges. It’s always a pleasure to taste wines alongside the person who shepherded them into existence. When the winemaker is one like Steve Rogstad with his wealth of experience in the business in general and at his length of tenure at his current Winery, its all the more interesting and informative.

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Wine, Winemaker Dinner | Leave a Comment »

Visiting Frog’s Leap Winery in Napa Valley

Posted by Gabe on January 21, 2013

Frog’s Leap has been around since 1981 and their focus has remained resolute to this day. They grow their grapes organically utilizing dry farmed vineyards. Their wine making techniques are classic and old school in intent and execution. Neither their vineyards nor their wines are over manipulated. They are also stewards of the land they inhabit and strive to be community members that make a difference. Towards that end they have been a solar powered facility since 2005. The folks at Frog’s Leap take their work, their wine and their place in the neighborhood quite seriously, but they do so while having fun, giving a wink and a smile so to speak.

A couple of days ago I made a visit to Frog’s Leap in Napa Valley. Though I’ve enjoyed a number of their wines over the years it was my first time visiting. Along with a couple of friends I made my way into their reception area and we were quickly seated even though we arrived quite a bit earlier than our scheduled appointment. They have an open porch with tables to host tastings, from that vantage point we could look at some of their vines as well as one group of visitors playing a game on the lawn while they enjoyed a taste of wine.

It was a beautiful day and Frog’s Leap is an excellent atmosphere in which to taste wine. After being seated we had someone dedicated to pouring us wine and telling us anything we might want to know about the facility and the wines. Their standard flight features 4 selections and the tastings are priced at $20. In addition to the four we were lucky enough to sample a few other releases.  On weekdays they also offer tours by prior appointment. What follows are my thoughts on a few of my favorite selections I tasted on my visit.

Frog’s Leap 2011 Rutherford Sauvignon Blanc: This 100% varietal wine is what got things off the ground for Frog’s Leap more than 30 years ago. All of the fruit for this offering comes from Rutherford. It was fermented and aged in stainless steel. This wine has a suggested retail price of $20. Citrus and mineral aromas pop out of this wine’s nose. The palate is gently layered with tropical and citrus fruit characteristics. Zippy acidity, spices and minerals galore are at play here as well and they continue through the finish which is clean, crisp and refreshing. My overriding desire after taking a sip was simply to take another. This is a lovely Sauvignon Blanc whose flavors are not forceful or over the top but rather persistent in their complexity and depth.

Frog’s Leap 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon: In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon, small amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc are blended into this wine. It was aged for 21 months in French oak and it has a suggested retail price of $42. The small dollop of Cabernet Franc in this blend really helps the nose pop. As a result cherry and leather aromas are in striking abundance. The palate here is smooth and approachable with deep berry flavors; Blackberry and plum are of particular note along with continued cherry. Earth and a bit of mocha emerge on the finish which has impressive length for the price. This wine will drink well for a number of years but it’s incredibly engaging and exuberant right now, there’s simply no reason to wait on this one.

Frog’s Leap 2010 Zinfandel: This wine is made in classic Field Blend style. This wine is composed of Zinfandel (77.5%), Petite Sirah (22%) and Carignane (0.5%). All 3 varietals were picked, fermented and aged together. Barrel aging took place over 12 months in French oak. This wine has a suggested retail price of $27. This Zinfandel really emerged after it was sitting in the glass for 15 or 20 minutes. Cherry aromas came out in droves along with a dollop of vanilla bean. Both red and black berry flavors dominate the palate along with a nice complement of spices such as clove, cinnamon and pepper. The finish is lengthy with sour cherry, bits of chocolate sauce and a final bit of biting spice. This is a proportionate Zinfandel made in a classic style. It’s spicy, fun, delicious and easy drinking without being over the top or simplistic. It’s a wine that will pair as beautifully with a pizza as it will a burger or soft polenta topped with sautéed mushrooms. Whatever you pair it with, you’re likely to love this terrifically well made Zinfandel.

Frog’s Leap 2010 Petite Sirah: This selection is 100% varietal and all of the fruit came from Rutherford. Aging took place over 11 months in French oak. The Frog’s Leap Petite Sirah has a suggested retail price of $37. In the glass this wine is as black as night. The aromas that emerge are dark and brooding to match. The first sip reveals Blackberries, blueberries and plum pudding spices. The finish has good length with hints of earth and a bit of chicory. This Petite Sirah is young and a bit tight right now with firm tannins. Time in the bottle will soften this wine and really help show off its charms. I’m fond of aging well made, balanced Petite Sirah that has good structure and acid. The Frog’s Leap Petite hits all those marks and I can’t wait to see where this wine is in about a decade. Of course you could decant it for a few hours and speed up the process. In any case this is a promising example of one of my favorite varietals.

It took me way too long to make it to Frog’s Leap for the first time, suffice it to say my second visit won’t take nearly as long. This is a great winery to visit in the heart of Napa Valley. The wines are terrific and well made. Each of them was balanced and proportionate with reasonable alcohol content, bucking current trends. The Zinfandel in particular stood out for being under 14%, something worth noting in an environment where some folks are making Zins that tip the scales over 16%. The wines are also clean and fresh with pure fruit flavors bursting through. Additionally the atmosphere is welcoming and charming with lovely understated décor that is soothing to the eye. The folks working at Frog’s Leap are incredibly friendly, accommodating and quite knowledgeable about the wines and Frog’s Leap in general. Next time you’re in Napa Valley, I strongly urge you to make a beeline to Frog’s Leap.

Posted in Wine, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Sauvignon Blanc, Petite Sirah | Leave a Comment »

Cornerstone Cellars – 2009 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

Posted by Gabe on January 18, 2013

Cornerstone Cellars has been making terrific wine in Napa Valley since 1991. Over the last few years they have expanded their portfolio to include some wines from Oregon as well as releases under the Stepping Stone sub-label. It’s been a pleasure to keep drinking their wines vintage after vintage as they have offered releases of consistent quality and approach. New additions to their portfolio are always a welcome surprise as they try new things. However at the core of their portfolio is Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Today I’ll look at the latest release of their Howell Mountain Cabernet.

The Cornerstone Cellars 2009 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon is predominately varietal (95%), with a small dollop of Merlot (5%) blended in. The majority of the fruit was sourced at their Ink grade Vineyard on Howell Mountain; a small amount of Cabernet from Oak Knoll was also used. The Merlot was sourced in Carneros. This wine was aged over 22 months in entirely French Oak. This small production release has a suggested retail price of $80.

Toast, bramble, black raspberry and vanilla bean aromas fill the nose of this Cabernet Sauvignon. The palate is loaded with black fruit flavors. Blackberry, plum and continued raspberry elements play starring roles here. Black cherry and a hefty spice component are in play as well. Dark, dusty baker’s chocolate, espresso, earth and black pepper all emerge on the finish which has terrific persistence and length. This Cabernet has firm tannins that yield with some air. There is a depth and purity of fruit here that comes across in awesome Mountain Cabs. Year after year the Howell Mountain Release from Cornerstone is amongst my favorite Napa Valley Cabernets, the 2009 is no exception. This is a big, beautiful wine that is both brawny and precise. It’s most impressive characteristics are its depth, length and how loaded it is with concentrated fruit flavors from start to finish. This wine is delicious today; particularly if you let it breathe so it can express all its charms, but will benefit from some aging. Don’t hesitate to lay this wine down for a dozen years. Either way this is top shelf Napa Valley Cabernet.

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Franciscan Estate Winery – 2011 Chardonnay / 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon / 2008 Magnificat

Posted by Gabe on January 14, 2013

I’ve personally been drinking wines from Napa Valley’s Franciscan Estate Winery since the early 1990’s. In that time they’ve remained a solid player that offers appealing wines sold at consumer friendly prices. Their portfolio has occasionally expanded a bit but they have mostly remained focused on their core offerings. Here’s a look at three current releases that make up a large portion of the backbone of their operation.

The Franciscan Estate 2011 Napa Valley Chardonnay is a 100% varietal wine. All of the fruit comes from the winery’s home appellation of Napa Valley. Barrel aging occurred over 7 months in a combination of French and American oak; 20% of the barrels utilized were new. 74,000 cases of this widely available offering were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $18. Golden Delicious apple and vanilla bean aromas emerge from the nose of this Chardonnay Orchard fruit and apple pie spice are in abundance throughout the even keeled palate. A bit of crème fraiche leads the crisp finish along with cloves, white pepper and an undercurrent of lemon zest. This is an easy to find Chardonnay that is well made vintage after vintage. If you’re looking for a New World Chardonnay that showcases its appealing fruit flavors this is one to consider.

The Franciscan Estate 2010 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was produced from Napa Valley Fruit. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (85%), small amounts of Merlot (11%), Syrah (3%), and Malbec (1%) were also blended in. Barrel aging took place over a period of 20 months; 25% of the barrels utilized were new. 117,000 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $28. Blackberry and blueberry aromas star on the nose of this 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon. Loads of dark berry flavors dominate the palate, interspersed with bits of red fruit throughout. Copious spices are present as well and add to the depth and complexity of this eager and appealing Cabernet. Minerals and earth are prominent components of the finish which shows good length for its category. Medium tannins yield with some air. This is a textbook example of a Napa Valley Cabernet that is meant for relatively short term consumption. It’ll hold up over the next 5 or 6 years, but it’s appealing, well priced and perfect to drink now, no reason to wait.

The Franciscan Estate 2008 Magnificat is a Napa Valley Meritage wine. This Bordeaux inspired blend has been produced since the 1985 vintage. The 2008 version blends together Cabernet Sauvignon (69%), Merlot (23%), Petit Verdot (6%), and Malbec (2%). This wine spent 20 months aging in oak; 70% of the barrels utilized were new. Just over 7,000 cases of the 2008 Magnificat were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $50. Bramble, red and black raspberry, as well as bits of vanilla bean are present on the nose of this 2008 Meritage. The palate here is studded with sumptuous black fruit flavors, lead by blackberry as well plum and accompanied by a vigorous spice component. Dark chocolate, espresso, earth and black pepper are all in strong evidence on the lengthy and persistent finish of the 2008 Magnificat. This is one of the longest standing and also most consistently excellent Meritage wines coming out of Napa Valley. At $50 a bottle it offers a combination of quality level and relative bang for the buck that is hard to beat. There are similar style blends selling for more than twice the price that can’t touch Magnificat. Whether you purchase it to drink today, or you want to lay it down for a special occasion a decade or so from now, you’re going to get a terrific bottle of wine at a very good price.

The Franciscan wines are standard bearers in Napa Valley. This is producer that makes fairly large quantities of wine that are easy to find all over the country. Their wines also represent a consistent level of quality and offerings that are fairly priced. These wines are well worth your time and money.

Posted in Blends, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Syrah/Shiraz, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Dinner with Winemaker Bernard Portet

Posted by Gabe on December 4, 2012

Last week I was lucky enough to sit and taste wine over dinner with Bernard Portet at Union Square Cafe. He was one of the founders of Napa Valley stalwart Clos du Val. Bernard was with them in a variety of capacities until just a couple of years ago, when he retired. That retirement didn’t last very long and now he’s involved with a smaller, personal project called Heritance. It’s been my good fortune over the years to sit across numerous tables, tasting counters and barrels from a wide array of winemakers. These opportunities are always a pleasure and it is also quite educational to learn about and taste wines with the person responsible for their existence. The experience is all the better when what the winemaker describes and what I taste in the glass true up; somewhat remarkably this isn’t always the case. I’m happy to report that the wines that I tasted with Bernard were exactly what he was describing, well balanced, food friendly offerings that will age appropriately for their intended styles. What follows are my thoughts on a few of my favorites from the evening.

Heritance 2010 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc. This offering is made utilizing mostly Sauvignon Blanc (91%), with a small amount of Semillon (9%) blended in. Aging of this wine took place in stainless steel. 2,000 cases were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $24. This is a fresh and lively Sauvignon Blanc with a mid-weight palate. The Semillon adds to that weight as well as to the complexity and roundness. The acidity here is firm but not aggressive. Citrus and orchard fruit characteristics are in evidence throughout and they’re buoyed by subtle wisps of grass. This is an absolutely awesome Sauvignon Blanc that can be described as pure elegance. If the only wine I tasted that evening was this Sauvignon Blanc I would have been happy to drink it all night. We also sampled the 2011 vintage and instead of Semillon it has a dollop of Roussanne blended in. It’s a nice wine as well that needs a few months before it really comes into its own.

Heritance 2011 Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir. All of the fruit for this wine was sourced in Carneros. Fermentation took place in open top, stainless steel tanks with twice daily punch downs. Barrel aging took place in previously used French oak 300 cases of this release were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $45. This wine opens with an enormously fragrant nose loaded with Bing cherry, spices and bits of leather. Cherry, strawberry and spice are in abundance through the palate which is even keeled and loaded with depth. Pomegranate and sour cherry are in evidence on the finish along with black pepper and mineral elements. This wine is loaded with varietal character and does a great job of showcasing what excellent Pinot Noir from Carneros is all about.

Heritance 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (94%), Merlot (4%) and Petit Verdot (2%). The fruit for this wine was hand harvested and fermentation took place over 10 days at high temperatures. Barrel aging occurred over 20 months in a combination of new and previously used French oak. 5,796 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $36. Black fruit aromas lead the nose of this Cabernet Sauvignon. The palate is rich and velvety with plum and black raspberry flavors leading the charge. Chocolate and espresso notes are in evidence on the finish which has good length. Firm tannins yield with some air. This is a nicely structured Cabernet that works well today with richly flavored foods. Over time it will soften and become more elegant. The 2008 which I also had the opportunity to sample is a delicious, ready to drink now Cabernet. Its style and graceful elegance speak volumes to where the 2010 is likely to be in a year or so. $36 for Napa Cabernet of this quality is, to say the least, a terrific value.

In addition to these wines we tasted several others; one particular standout was a 1979 Cabernet Sauvignon that Bernard made at Clos du Val. It was delicious and loaded with lively fruit and excellent character. It still has several years, perhaps a decade of life ahead of it. I asked Bernard why he picked the 1979 in particular and he indicated that while the 1978 had been hailed critically, he had personally always been a bigger fan of the 1979 which he felt even back then showed great promise. Bernard has a long track record of producing well made, approachable, food friendly wines that will age gracefully. The bottom line is that all the wines I sampled at dinner, which fall under his new label, continue that tradition. In addition to being well crafted and taking advantage of his 40 + years of experience they are also excellent values in their respective categories.

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Wine | 1 Comment »

Viña Ventisquero – 2012 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc / 2011 Reserva Pinot Noir / 2010 Grey Carmenère / 2009 Grey Cabernet Sauvignon

Posted by Gabe on November 26, 2012

When I was in Chile last month I participated in a virtual Blogger tasting. I’d taken part in previous tastings of that kind from home before. But on this occasion I was onsite in an adjacent room while the winemakers discussed their varied offerings a few feet away. Getting to mingle with a roomful of winemakers before and after the tasting was one of many highlights that dotted a wonderful week in Chile. There were several standouts for me that day; one of them came from producer Viña Ventisquero. The Cabernet Sauvignon from their Grey tier of wines really made an impression, so once I was back home I decided to take a closer look at a few of their current releases. Here are my thoughts on four of them including the Cabernet Sauvignon I tasted while in Chile and had the opportunity to revisit for this story.

The Ventisquero 2012 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc was produced using fruit sourced in Chile’s Casablanca Valley. This wine is 100% varietal. After fermentation the wine was aged on the lees for a period of four months. This offering has a suggested retail price of $12.99. The nose here is fresh and lively with citrus and orchard fruits in abundance; hints of spice play a supporting role. A grassy undercurrent underlies the palate which is framed by lemon zest, orange and grapefruit characteristics. Limestone, white pepper, and a touch of vanilla bean lead the finish which is light, fruity, zesty and crisp. This Sauvignon Blanc will pair wonderfully with entrée salads, soft cheeses and roasted veggies to name a few choices. It’s also quite delicious all by itself. There are quite a few excellent Sauvignon Blanc’s coming out f Chile at a host of different price points with a variety of intents. In the roughly $10 range this selection from Ventisquero is a terrific value that is indicative of the great things being accomplished with this grape in Chile. Drink this wine over the next year or so when it’s young, vibrant flavors are at their most exuberant.

The Ventisquero 2011 Reserva Pinot Noir was made utilizing fruit sourced in Casablanca Valley. This offering is 100% Pinot. Fermentation took place in temperature controlled open tanks. The wine was aged in a combination of French oak (70%) and stainless steel (30%) over a period of 10 months. This Pinot has a suggested retail price of $12.99. Bing cherry, wild strawberry and vanilla bean characteristics are in full evidence on the nose of this wine. Hints of mushroom and gentle red fruit flavors make up the even keeled palate. Cranberry, pomegranate leather and spices are part of the finish which has solid length and persistence. This is a perfectly dry wine with tons of varietal character, two things often not in evidence in Pinot Noir at this price level. The bottom line is this wine is an extraordinary Pinot Noir for the price. This would be an excellent wine to buy a case or more of. If you’re searching for a wine to have around the house to give out as stocking stuffers or last minute gifts look no further. Your Pinot loving friends and family will thank you for turning them on to this tremendous little value.

The Ventisquero 2010 Grey Carmenère was produced from fruit sourced at Trinidad Vineyard in Chile’s Maipo Valley. This is a 100% varietal offering. Fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks followed by aging in French oak over 18 months. 33% of the barrels utilized were new. An additional 8 months of bottle aging occurred prior to release. This wine has a suggested retail price of $23.99. Boysenberry, vanilla and violet aromas burst out from the nose of this Carmenère. The palate is juicy and pleasing with plums, blackberry and berry fruit flavors galore. Green herb notes underscore things here and play a supporting role. Black tea, plum pudding spices, minerals and black pepper all emerge on the finish. There is a lovely balance in this wine with loads of eager fruit buoyed by lots of spice and a lovely collection of herbaceous characteristics. The Ventisquero Carmenère works equally well paired with full flavored foods as it does on its own.

The Ventisquero 2009 Grey Cabernet Sauvignon was made using fruit sourced from within Block 38 which is a hillside section of the Trinidad Vineyard in Maipo Valley. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (94%), this wine also has some Petit Verdot (6%) blended in. This wine was entirely aged in French oak over 18 months; 33% of the barrels were new. No less than 8 months of bottle aging followed prior to release. The Ventisquero Grey Cabernet Sauvignon has a suggested retail price of $23.99. Cherry and raspberry aromas dominate the nose of this 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon. White pepper and hints of anise support the plate which is loaded with red fruits in the form of wild strawberry and cherry. Hints of black fruits are present as well and they dart through from time to time. Clove, cinnamon and a bit of nutmeg emerge on the finish along with cocoa, minerals and continued cherry and other warming red fruit flavors. This is an elegant, well structured and beautifully proportioned wine for the money. A Cabernet at this level of quality from some other regions would easily retail for $35-$40. This wine is delicious now and will drink well over the next 8 or so years. However it’ll be at its best over the next 5.

It’s fair to say I was highly impressed with this quartet of wines. The Reserva line offerings are excellent buys in their price range. If you drink wines for around $10 you’re going to be really happy with what you get for your money here. The Pinot Noir in particular is brilliant. There are very, very few Pinot Noirs under $15 that are worth spending much time talking about. This example from Ventisquero is amongst their tiny number. The Grey tier wines are quite lovely as well. It was nice to see that the Cabernet Sauvignon was equally notable when I re-tasted it at home roughly a month after sampling it in Chile. Their portfolio, like that of many Chilean producers is vast, with the quality of these 4 selections I look forward to exploring it further and reporting on my findings; I suspect their will be some other gems to be had.

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Chile, Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Wine | Leave a Comment »

 
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