Gabe's View

Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

Archive for the ‘Chardonnay’ Category

« Previous Entries

Dinner with Cuvaison Winemaker Steve Rogstad

Posted by Gabe on February 26, 2013

Cuvaison Winery has a history in Napa Valley that dates back to 1969. However they were reset in 1979 when the Schmidheiny family from Switzerland purchased the property. A decade ago they built a new facility in Carneros under the stewardship of winery president Jay Schuppert and winemaker Steve Rogstad, who both joined on in 2002 and are still onboard. Previous to that the wines were made in Calistoga where they still own a facility and a satellite tasting room. Last week I had the opportunity to have dinner with Steve Rogstad at Tocqueville. We tasted through the core releases as well as a couple of wines made from the Brandlin Estate on Mount Veeder. My thoughts on my favorite wines from the evening follow.

The Cuvaison 2011 Estate Chardonnay Carneros is their flagship offering. It makes up roughly 75% of their total production which varies between 40 and 50,000 cases from one vintage to the next. The fruit for this wine came from 44 distinct blocks within their Estate. Each lot was picked and vinified separately. This Chardonnay was barrel fermented and aged in French oak for 8 months; 20% of the barrels utilized were new. This widely available wine has a suggested retail price of $25. This is a gorgeous Chardonnay with clean and crisp flavors. Apple aromas lead the nose and carry on to the palate. Tropical fruit flavors join in as well with pineapple and guava of particular note. Spice, minerals and a little kiss of crème fraiche emerge on the finish which has nice length. It is classic example of well made Carneros Chardonnay that allows the fruit to shine brilliantly through. This wine is a very solid value at its price point.

The Cuvaison 2011 Kite Tail Chardonnay is produced each year from a single block. This block is planted to the Wente clone. The fruit was hand harvested and whole cluster pressed. It was fermented and aged in barrel over 15 months in French oak; 50% of the barrels utilized were new. This wine has a suggested price of $42. Hints of smoke and toast light up the nose of this Chardonnay along with bits of orchard fruit. The flavors here are more concentrated and have a greater intensity. Apple and pear are in strong evidence along with a bit of mango. Bits of toasted almond, and copious spices such as nutmeg and white pepper emerge on the finish which has substantial length. Tasting these two Chardonnays side by side is a tiny little window into how diverse this grape is. In this case multiple factors play in to the distinction. Both wines are delicious and interesting in their own right.

The Cuvaison 2011 Estate Pinot Noir Carneros was produced with fruit sourced from 20 distinct blocks within the Winery Estate. Each block was vinified separately. Barrel aging took place over 11 months in small oak barrels; 30% of them were new. This wine has a suggested retail price of $38. Fresh red fruit aromas fill the nose of this Pinot Noir. Bing cherry and strawberry characteristics are at play on the palate along with a bit of cinnamon and black pepper spice. Raspberry emerges on the finish along with wisps of rhubarb and earth. As a counterpoint to the Estate Chardonnay this is an equally engaging and well made example of Carneros Pinot.

The Brandlin Estate Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon is largely varietal (94%), with small amounts of Petit Verdot (4%), Malbec (1%) and Cabernet Franc (1%) blended in. This wine was aged over 22 months in French oak; 50% of the barrels utilized were new. This wine has a suggested retail price of $55. Cuvaison purchased this property, which has been farmed by the Brandlin family since the 1870’s in the late 90’s. This is a historic Napa vineyard whose history they honor by name and in practice. Less than 40 of the 170 acres have been planted to vine. There’s a ton of excellent Cabernet Sauvignon in NapaValley. Personally I think some of the most compelling examples are made from mountain fruit. This selection from Brandlin is no exception. Black fruit aromas dominate the nose along with hints of toast. This is a young Cabernet and it’s a bit tight out of the bottle right now. It opens up nicely with some air and shows off blackberry and raspberry fruit flavors as well as hints of cocoa. Earth and black pepper emerge on the finish which has good length. This wine has firm, gripping tannins and solid structure. It’s tasty now but will be even better a few years from now. This is a nice example of Mt. Veeder Cabernet.

The connective tissue with the wines Steve Rogstad is making for Cuvaison and their Mount Veeder Property Brandlin is proportion. These are lovely, vineyard-driven wines that pair well with a wide array of foods and quite frankly life in general. Each wine is distinct yet it’s clear the guiding hand and winery principles employed at Cuvaison have led to the creation and maintaining of an impressive portfolio that leads with their property in Carneros and the beautiful grapes that are grown there. Add to that the rugged Cabernet and other Bordeaux varietals of Mt. Veeder and the picture of a producer that lets their properties speak through the bottle emerges. It’s always a pleasure to taste wines alongside the person who shepherded them into existence. When the winemaker is one like Steve Rogstad with his wealth of experience in the business in general and at his length of tenure at his current Winery, its all the more interesting and informative.

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Wine, Winemaker Dinner | Leave a Comment »

Visiting Williams Selyem Winery in Sonoma County

Posted by Gabe on February 4, 2013

Williams Selyem Winery has been making wine in Sonoma County since 1981. It was that year that they produced their first vintage of Pinot Noir. Since then their portfolio has been expanded a bit and there are a handful of other varietals in the mix; however they are first and foremost a Pinot Noir House. A couple of weeks ago I had the opportunity to visit them and taste through some current and older releases, as well as tour the facility.

Williams Selyem graciously welcomes visitors by advance appointment. Check their website for specific details. Pulling up to the winery, the facility is impressive in a number of ways. On the one hand it’s a beautiful structure that would look good anywhere. Secondly and somewhat more importantly it fits perfectly into its surroundings. When they built this new winery property a few years back they surely kept the idea of being shepherds of the land in mind. From every angle I walked the facility, inside and out, it literally seemed as if it had been gently dropped into the vineyard land so as not to disturb anything. And in fact numerous trees of significant age are about as close to the building as one could possibly imagine. It’s also an eye-catching edifice inside and out without ever being ostentatious in any way.

William-Selyem is best known for Pinot Noir and their portfolio is dotted with single vineyard designate wines and cuvee offerings. In addition to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Zinfandel and a port produced from traditional Portuguese varietals are part of the mix. One of the interesting production methods that sets them apart is the use of Dairy Bins for fermentation. These large, rectangular bins offer a larger surface area than traditional fermentation vessels. They’re so ingrained in the production process that William-Selyem has a company routinely looking out for additional bins for them to acquire. Once they are purchased, the bins are retrofitted to comply with their needs. While a small amount of wines go out in distribution, 96% of their production is sold direct to consumers. They have had a robust mailing list of admirer’s for years that’s the envy of many others in the industry. Allocations are largely based on time on the list and buying history.

Quite a number of well made and delicious wines passed my lips while I visited; here are my impressions of a handful of selections that particularly stood out that day.

Williams Selyem 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay. The fruit for this entirely stainless steel fermented wine was sourced at three vineyards; Drake Estate Vineyard, Olivet Lane Vineyard, and Lazy W Ranch located on Westside   Road. This was a preview of a wine being released this spring. It’s going to have a price of $37. Orchard fruit aromas fill the fresh and vibrant nose of this wine. Tart green apple flavors are prominent on the palate along with bits of lime and pear. Minerals and an undercurrent of spice emerge on the finish which is clean and crisp. If I were to sum up this wine in one word it would be lovely. Those who aren’t fond of overdone, over-oaked Chardonnay should do whatever they can to acquire their own stash of this wine. It’s beautiful, refreshing and simply a pleasure to drink.

Williams Selyem 2010 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. The fruit for this cuvee style offering was sourcec at a combination of five vineyards; Bucher Vineyard,  Drake Estate Vineyard, the Foss Vineyard, the Lone Oak Vineyard, and Williams Selyem Estate Vineyard. Oak aging took place over 11 months in a combination of new (25%), once used (50%), and twice used (25%) barrels. This wine which was released last spring sells for $37. Both red and black fruit aromas fill the nose of this Pinot Noir. This theme continues through the palate where black cherry characteristics take a starring role. Raspberry, earth, black tea and a gentle wisp of anise all emerge on the finish which has excellent length. Fine acidity provides a firm backbone. This is a really terrific Pinot Noir in the under $40 category.

Williams Selyem 2005 Vista Verde Pinot Noir. This wine was made entirely from fruit sourced at the Vista Verde Vineyard. The location of this vineyard is just south of Holister, near where Calera, another highly regarded California Pinot Noir house is located. Barrel aging took place over 15 months in a combination of new (65%) and once used (35%) oak. At release this wine sold for $49. From the first whiff to the last sip this wine showed itself to be in its sweet spot. At just over seven years old it’s showing subtle cherry aromas on the nose. The palate leads with gingerbread spice notes that are accompanied by red fruits. Earth, sour cherry and a bit of tea are present in the finish which has terrific length. This is a stunning wine at its peak.

Williams Selyem 1998 Central Coast Pinot Noir. This wine was produced from Estate Vineyards located south of Hollister. Their Central Coast release typically spends 10 months in a combination of new (33%), once used (33%) and twice used (33%) oak. The current release sells for $39. At first blush this wine was a bit closed off and honestly I thought it might be gone. However a few minutes in the glass did wonders. Ultimately I was knocked out by how very much alive this 15 year old Pinot Noir is. Good lively fruit marked the nose and palate, with zippy acidity and a core of spices playing along as well. Impressive for its age and well worth drinking if you can get your hands on a bottle. This underscores the importance of balance and its role in the age-ability of wines.

If you’re a Pinot Noir lover traveling to Sonoma County Williams Selyem should be on your short list of producers to visit. This is a relatively small outfit, doing things in a unique manner with consistently noteworthy results. And if for some strange reason Pinot Noir isn’t your thing, the Zinfandel, Chardonnay and Port are quite tasty as well.

Posted in Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Wine, Winery Visit, Zinfandel | Leave a Comment »

Franciscan Estate Winery – 2011 Chardonnay / 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon / 2008 Magnificat

Posted by Gabe on January 14, 2013

I’ve personally been drinking wines from Napa Valley’s Franciscan Estate Winery since the early 1990’s. In that time they’ve remained a solid player that offers appealing wines sold at consumer friendly prices. Their portfolio has occasionally expanded a bit but they have mostly remained focused on their core offerings. Here’s a look at three current releases that make up a large portion of the backbone of their operation.

The Franciscan Estate 2011 Napa Valley Chardonnay is a 100% varietal wine. All of the fruit comes from the winery’s home appellation of Napa Valley. Barrel aging occurred over 7 months in a combination of French and American oak; 20% of the barrels utilized were new. 74,000 cases of this widely available offering were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $18. Golden Delicious apple and vanilla bean aromas emerge from the nose of this Chardonnay Orchard fruit and apple pie spice are in abundance throughout the even keeled palate. A bit of crème fraiche leads the crisp finish along with cloves, white pepper and an undercurrent of lemon zest. This is an easy to find Chardonnay that is well made vintage after vintage. If you’re looking for a New World Chardonnay that showcases its appealing fruit flavors this is one to consider.

The Franciscan Estate 2010 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was produced from Napa Valley Fruit. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (85%), small amounts of Merlot (11%), Syrah (3%), and Malbec (1%) were also blended in. Barrel aging took place over a period of 20 months; 25% of the barrels utilized were new. 117,000 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $28. Blackberry and blueberry aromas star on the nose of this 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon. Loads of dark berry flavors dominate the palate, interspersed with bits of red fruit throughout. Copious spices are present as well and add to the depth and complexity of this eager and appealing Cabernet. Minerals and earth are prominent components of the finish which shows good length for its category. Medium tannins yield with some air. This is a textbook example of a Napa Valley Cabernet that is meant for relatively short term consumption. It’ll hold up over the next 5 or 6 years, but it’s appealing, well priced and perfect to drink now, no reason to wait.

The Franciscan Estate 2008 Magnificat is a Napa Valley Meritage wine. This Bordeaux inspired blend has been produced since the 1985 vintage. The 2008 version blends together Cabernet Sauvignon (69%), Merlot (23%), Petit Verdot (6%), and Malbec (2%). This wine spent 20 months aging in oak; 70% of the barrels utilized were new. Just over 7,000 cases of the 2008 Magnificat were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $50. Bramble, red and black raspberry, as well as bits of vanilla bean are present on the nose of this 2008 Meritage. The palate here is studded with sumptuous black fruit flavors, lead by blackberry as well plum and accompanied by a vigorous spice component. Dark chocolate, espresso, earth and black pepper are all in strong evidence on the lengthy and persistent finish of the 2008 Magnificat. This is one of the longest standing and also most consistently excellent Meritage wines coming out of Napa Valley. At $50 a bottle it offers a combination of quality level and relative bang for the buck that is hard to beat. There are similar style blends selling for more than twice the price that can’t touch Magnificat. Whether you purchase it to drink today, or you want to lay it down for a special occasion a decade or so from now, you’re going to get a terrific bottle of wine at a very good price.

The Franciscan wines are standard bearers in Napa Valley. This is producer that makes fairly large quantities of wine that are easy to find all over the country. Their wines also represent a consistent level of quality and offerings that are fairly priced. These wines are well worth your time and money.

Posted in Blends, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Syrah/Shiraz, Wine | Leave a Comment »

The State of Chilean Wines Today: Quality, Value, and Diversity

Posted by Gabe on October 30, 2012

Some of the Diversity I tasted in Chile

Cabernet Sauvignon was king when I first started drinking Chilean wines some 20 years ago. And not just Cabernet in general, but specifically bargain priced Cabernet. Most wine drinking folks I know rifled through bottles of $6 or so Cabernet Sauvignon looking for gems; we found quite a few. And for many people that’s the lingering impression of Chilean Wine. The trouble is it’s no longer a valid image. Sure you can still find a bargain and some of them are Cabernet Sauvignon, but there is so much more Chilean wine on U.S. shelves deserving your attention and your dollars that it would be a real shame to limit yourself. I knew this before I went to Chile last week. So one of my goals in visiting was to verify it and see what they had going on that might be less obvious from 5,000 miles away. So I’ve compiled a handful of strong impressions of Chilean Wines gleamed from the trenches.

- Argentina gets the attention but Chile makes some ass kicking Malbec: It’s Argentina’s signature grape so they should be at the forefront. In some ways they are, the general public thinks about Argentina first for Malbec. Some of them are terrific, but unfortunately way too many examples are made in an overtly fruit forward style with a lackluster body and no finish to speak of. I was a little surprised with the number of Malbecs I got to taste in Chile. While I knew it was there, its presence is larger than I would have guessed. More importantly the ones I tasted where almost all uniformly well made. By and large they were elegant, balanced and well proportioned. Often times they were made from old vine fruit. I hope we start seeing Chilean Malbec on our shelves in reasonable numbers soon.

- Tiers baby: I’ve often written about wineries like Rodney Strong in Sonoma County whose tiered approach to their portfolio is consumer friendly. This is true in a very large percentage of Chilean Wineries. They often have 3 or 4 tiers of wine. Often the entry-level wines retail for around $10 on our shelves and they have a top-level that might reach into the $30’s and $40’s, as well as occasionally higher. In between are wines in the teens and $20’s. What’s remarkable is that there is more often than not quality, value, and diversity to be had at each tier. In Chile wineries that produce what we view as very large quantities of wine often do so at a high level. One of the main reasons for this is simple: estate fruit. By owning the vineyards outright or having fruit under long-term contract they have a say in precisely how the vineyards are maintained. This can (and often does) lead to high quality in the bottle at each price point. The intent of a producer’s $8 Sauvignon Blanc and their $20 one are often quite different as are their appeals and projected end user. But what’s important is getting value regardless of price; in Chile that is often the case.

- There are some delicious small production wines being made: Sure there are lots and lots of excellent Sauvignon Blancs coming from Chile and some tasty Pinot Noirs now too, but that’s not all. I had the opportunity to taste a delicious and marvelously dry Gewürztraminer made by Nimbus (part of the Santa Carolina Family of wines), as well as a lovely sparkling wine from Cono Sur to name a couple.  Viognier is making some ripples in Chile too and hopefully before long we’ll see a greater number of them available in the US as well. I’ve mentioned a few whites but the same can be said for reds. More than one example of varietal Petit Verdot I had was lovely as were a couple of tastes of Carignan. In some cases these wines aren’t on our shelves in the US yet, but they’re important to mention for the coming diversity and quality they represent.

- Blends will set Chile apart: Almost every winemaking culture has some blends. In places like Bordeaux they’re everything. In a lot of other places, well quite frankly they’re doing their best to mimic Bordeaux. Certainly Chile works to make great wine and learning lessons from places like Bordeaux or Napa to name two examples is part of the equation. But I also got the very strong sense that Chile is happy to be writing their own rule book when it comes to blends. Sure some of them contain the usual suspects of Bordeaux varietals. However grapes like Carménère that have been marginalized or fallen by the wayside in Bordeaux often steal the show in Chile. Additionally with red blends Syrah often makes a mark too as well as some others. Some of the most impressive wines from Chile I’ve tasted over the last 5 years have been blends. This remained constant on my trip last week where I tasted lots of delicious blends. It’s important to note that with blends like with varietal wines there are values at many price levels.

- Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon can still be a great value: While there are no longer boatloads of awesome deals on $6 Cabernet Sauvignon there are still many deals to be had. Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile when it’s grown in the right spot and treated properly in the winery can blow away a lot of countries on QPR. What I found on this trip is that the Cabernets in the $15-$25 range were particularly noteworthy in terms of value. These are balanced wines that are often perfect for everyday enjoyment as well as drinking over the next few years. At a higher cost there are some truly age-worthy wines. One example was the Casa Real Cabernet Sauvignon from Santa Rita. We tasted both the current release (2009) and a 15 year old bottle (1997). Jameson Fink, a fellow writer who was on the same trip wrote about this particular experience and it’s well worth a read.

- Diversity is King of Chile now: Everywhere we went there was something unique to taste. In some cases it was a Sparkling Rosé made from an almost lost grape. Sometimes it was a Moscato that stunned us all by how lovely and dry it was. On one occasion it was an Old Vine Sauvignon Gris. These are just a couple of examples. Chilean winemakers are experimenting in the vineyards with new farming techniques as well as plantings of new varietals or the reclamation of abandoned old vineyards. In the Winery they’re also experimenting with how they utilize oak, what they blend together and frankly just about every decision they make. What that means to us is we’re going to get to taste a wide swath of different wines from Chile.

In short I was pretty knocked out by what they have going on in Chile. I’ve really enjoyed drinking the wines from there for a long time now. But in 2012 instead of thinking of them for one thing, I think of Chile for an ever widening variety of different varietals, blends and more. Grab some Chilean wines and taste the quality, value and diversity I was lucky enough to witness firsthand.

Posted in Blends, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Chardonnay, Chile, Gewürztraminer, Malbec, Moscato, Rosé, Sparkling Wine, Wine | 1 Comment »

Franciscan Estate – 2010 Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay

Posted by Gabe on July 26, 2012

Franciscan Estate is a Napa Winery that has been a mainstay in the valley for close to 40 years. Their wines are available all over the country and many of the labels peak out from the shelves like familiar friends that want to come out and play. Today I’ll take a look at their relatively small production Chardonnay, Cuvée Sauvage, a wine that hasn’t been around quite as long as some of their other releases.

The Franciscan Estate 2010 Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay was produced entirely from fruit sourced in the Carneros appellation of Napa Valley. This wine is 100% Chardonnay. The wine was fermented entirely in barrel utilizing only native yeats. All of the barrels were French oak; 86% of them were new. Aging took place over a period of 14 months. Just over 1,400 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $40.

Aromas of Anjou pear, vanilla bean and cardamom fill the appealing and welcoming nose of this 2010 Chardonnay. Lemon zest, orchard fruit in droves and bits of crème fraiche are all present on the palate which is layered and intense while retaining grace and precision. A bevy of spices including white pepper and clove are in evidence throughout the lengthy finish along with lemon ice and continued pear and apple flavors. This is an elegant and impressive expression of Chardonnay that is well worth the bottle price. There’s a lot of Chardonnay from Napa Valley out there, this is an example that is both reasonably easy to find and well worth sampling because it stands apart from the pack a bit.

Posted in Chardonnay, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Rodney Strong Vineyards – 2010 Chalk Hill Chardonnay / 2010 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Posted by Gabe on July 19, 2012

Rodney Strong Vineyards is a Sonoma County producer with an impressive and consumer friendly portfolio. If you’re a wine lover there’s a very good chance they have something you’ll like that also fits into your budget. Today I’ll take a look at two of their wines that I have tasted over numerous vintages which are consistently well made year after year.

The Rodney Strong Vineyards 2010 Chalk Hill Chardonnay was produced entirely from fruit sourced in the Chalk Hill appellation of Sonoma County. This offering is 100% Chardonnay. 92% of the wine was fermented in French oak and underwent malolactic fermentation. That portion was also aged in new and seasoned barrels for 9 months; the balance was fermented and aged in stainless steel. This widely available wine has a suggested retail price of $20. Aromas of vanilla, lemon zest and subtle toast emerge from the nose of this Chardonnay. Bartlett pear and yellow delicious apple flavors are dominant through the palate along with a wallop of zesty lemon curd which is one of the hallmarks of this wine year after year. Minerals, white pepper and baker’s spice are part of the finish along with hints of creaminess. Firm structure marked by solid acidity makes this a Chardonnay well heeled to pair with a variety of food styles. The Chalk Hill release from Rodney Strong is in that beautiful middle ground of Chardonnays that showcase pure fruit that are enhanced by judicious use of oak which is clearly present but never detracts. Drink it up, they make more every year.

The Rodney Strong Vineyards 2010 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir was produced from fruit sourced at a number of vineyards. The River East vineyard in Healdsburg which was planted by Rod Strong in 1968 is a chief contributor. This wine is 100% varietal. Barrel aging occurred over 11 months in entirely French oak. This wine is readily available nationally and has a suggested retail price of $20. Strawberry, leather, and cinnamon aromas are well represented on the nose of this Russian River Pinot Noir. Black Cherry flavors leads the palate and they’re joined by red plum, as well as continued bits of strawberry. Black tea, pepper and a treasure trove of spices as well as hints of red apple emerge on the finish which has very good length. Racy acidity and nice overall structure help make this a versatile food wine. If you’re looking for a dependable Russian River Pinot Noir for around $20, this wine has got to be on your list.

It’s probably clear by now that I’m a big fan of the Rodney Strong Vineyards wines. As much as I do like the wines though, I’m an even bigger fan of what this winery represents. They’re a widely available brand that provides fair value at numerous price tiers. Consumers should have the confidence to buy wine with the Rodney Strong name on it knowing that they are getting a well made wine that represents a real place, Sonoma County. Not everyone has the wide selection available that we do in some parts of the country, the time to research them when we do or in some cases the resources to blindly take a chance on a bottle. With Rodney Strong Vineyards you’re placing a safe bet that you will win.

Posted in Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Black Stallion Estate Winery – 2010 Napa Valley Chardonnay

Posted by Gabe on July 13, 2012

The Silverado Trail in Napa Valley has been flourishing for years now. However it’s not nearly as populated as Highway 29, and on a busy day it’s still a safe bet for easier travelling. But it’s no longer the secret it may once have been. Savvy wine lovers know that there are excellent wineries of every size and scope throughout Napa Valley, Silverado Trail is a microcosm of that with both small family owned wineries and larger producers dotting its landscape. Black Stallion Winery sits towards the very southern end of the trail. Today I’ll take a look at their current release of Chardonnay.

The Black Stallion Estate Winery 2010 Napa Valley Chardonnay was produced from fruit sourced in several Napa sub-appellations including Carneros, Green Island and Rutherford. This wine is 100% Chardonnay. All of the fruit was hand harvested and gently crushed into stainless steel tanks where fermentation began by adding select yeasts. After the yeast was introduced the juice was moved to French oak. 85% of the wine underwent Malolactic Fermentation. The total time in oak was 7 months. 9,000 cases of this Chardonnay were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

Fresh orchard fruit aromas are joined by lemon curd on the welcoming nose of this 2010 Chardonnay. Pineapple and mango are a couple of the tropical fruits that light up the gorgeous palate of this wine along with orchard fruits such as apple and pear. A burst of baker’s spice is present as well. Minerals, continued fruit and a final tingly conglomeration of spices are all present on the finish which has good length.

Black Stallion’s 2010 Napa Valley Chardonnay is a very solid value for its category. This is a well made wine showing off good varietal character. With 9,000 cases produced it should be easy enough to locate. If your taste in Chardonnay runs towards the style that showcases fruit which has been gently enhanced by oak this might just be the wine for you.

Posted in Chardonnay, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Smith-Madrone Vineyards and Winery – 2009 Chardonnay / 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

Posted by Gabe on June 15, 2012

Sometimes wine lovers bemoan the state of Napa Valley. People are heard to complain about the number of ostentatious wineries and tasting room that have taken hold of the Valley and along with that they talk about how it was in the old days when Napa had a small number of producers and a visit meant tasting with the owner who was often also the winemaker. The trouble with that line of thought is that there are still many family owned Wineries in Napa Valley that belie the image of Napa as only lavish tasting rooms and over the top facilities.

Smith-Madrone Vineyards and Winery is a shining example of a small family owned and run Winery. A visit there is in some ways a visit to a simpler time in Napa Valley. They’re a boutique producer that focuses on Estate grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Riesling. When you visit you’ll see their property with either Stu or Charles Smith or if you’re really lucky both of them. They grow the grapes, make the wine and do pretty much everything from soup to nuts that’s involved in bringing their wines to your table. That’s the way it’s been since they were founded in the very early 70’s. Their location up on Spring Mountain is a bit removed from the hustle and bustle of the valley floor, but it’s not a far ride. Once you’re up there though you’ll feel like you’ve traveled to a magical land where all that matters is the way the grapes are grown, picked and vinified to make offerings that represent the location they came from.

I recently had dinner with Stu Smith who started the winery in 1971. It’s been my fortune to spend some time with Stu on a few occasions and I’m always impressed by how unvarnished, real and without pretense he is. The truth is you can discover the very same thing simply by drinking their wines. They make approximately 4,000 cases of wine each year entirely from their own property. Everything about Smith-Madrone comes from the two brothers. They planted the vines and in the 41 years they’ve been in operation have replanted sections of the vineyard in some cases too. They are as truly Napa Valley as any producer on the map. Their wines are made in a genuine style that lends itself to immediate enjoyment upon release as well as age ability. These are not wines that are produced in a vacuum with the idea of trying to gain high scores on someone’s point system. These are wines grown, pressed and aged in the same ecosystem, every vintage, for over 40 years. The Smith-Madrone wines are alive, delicious and most importantly a true representation of the spirit and desire of two brothers to make great wine in their little corner of the world. With that here’s a look at a couple of the wines I tasted over dinner with Stu and then re-tasted a couple of days ago.

First up is the Smith-Madrone Vineyards and Winery 2009 Chardonnay. All of the fruit for this wine came from their home ranch on Spring Mountain. Their Chardonnay vines have 37 years of age on them. This offering which is entirely Chardonnay was barrel fermented and aged in entirely new French oak over a nine month period. Just over 500 cases were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $35. Apple pie aromas dominate the nose of this Chardonnay and they are underscored by pleasing hints of lemon curd. The palate is marked by the intensity of its Chardonnay character in the form of pure and unadulterated fruit. Apple flavors dominate things here with spice and minerals galore to add to the complexity. Nutmeg, clove and continued mineral characteristics are all in evidence on the finish which has excellent length. Firm, zippy acidity adds to the wonderful structure and balance of this Chardonnay. The Smith-Madrone Chardonnay is nothing short of an absolute joy to drink. It’s also a wine that will age gracefully and be quite enjoyable and drinkable over the next 8 or so years at minimum.

The second wine today is the Smith-Madrone Vineyards and Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon. All of the fruit came from their home ranch in the Spring Mountain area of Napa Valley. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (85%), this wine contains Merlot (6%), and Cabernet Franc (9%). The vines had 34 years of age on them at the time of harvest. This Cabernet spent 22 months aging in American oak. The Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon was bottled unfined and unfiltered. Just fewer than 1,500 cases were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $45. Aromas of fresh black fruits such as blackberry, currant, and black cherry fill the inviting nose of this 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon. Wisps of toast and herb characteristics are present as well. There is a depth, power and complexity to the palate of this wine that immediately impresses as soon as you take a sip and let it envelop your senses. This wine is intense but precise and measured. As with all of the Smith-Madrone wines it’s balanced and proportionate. Cherry flavors, both black and red dominate the palate along with hints of mushroom and leather as well as black pepper. The finish here is long and lush with the depth that is often associated with great Napa Mountain Cabernet. Earth, baker’s chocolate, black tea and hints of graphite are all present. This Cabernet will certainly age and improve in the bottle over the next 15 or so years. However it’s quite ready to drink now, a benefit of Charles and Stu holding their wines until they are drinkable. If you do drink it now you have the choice of decanting it for an hour or so or watching as it develops in your glass over a leisurely meal. In any case you’ll be drinking one of the very best Cabernet’s from Napa Valley regardless of price point.

If you have yet to taste the wines of Smith-Madrone I urge you to do so at your earliest convenience. In addition to being well made and delicious they are also fairly priced. The Cabernet Sauvignon in particular is a terrific bargain relative to many of the Napa Cabernet’s of similar quality. In addition to drinking these offerings, I urge anyone travelling to Napa Valley to take the time and make an appointment so you can visit the lovely folks at Smith-Madrone; your time there will undoubtedly become a memorable visit you will cherish as you drink the wine you will have brought back home with you. So don’t bemoan the over the top tasting rooms at some Napa Wineries, enjoy them for what they are. But when you want to get to the pulse of Napa Valley, point your car up Spring Mountain either literally or via your local wine shop and enjoy the wines of Smith-Madrone.

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Dining, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Craggy Range – 2011 Kidnapper’s Vineyard Chardonnay

Posted by Gabe on June 1, 2012

The Craggy Range 2011 Kidnapper’s Vineyard Chardonnay is a single vineyard wine produced exclusively from fruit sourced at the namesake site. Kidnapper’s Vineyard is located in the Hawkes Bay appellation of New Zealand. After harvesting fermentation took place in a combination of vessels; both large and small oak containers were used as well as stainless steel tanks. Some of the fruit had been de-stemmed prior (25%), while the balance was whole cluster pressed. Barrel aging took place over 5 months in a combination of French oak barriques, puncheons and cuves; 12% of the oak utilized was new. This widely available wine has a suggested retail price of $21.99.

Lemon zest, vanilla bean and wisps of toasted nuts fill the vibrant nose of this 2011 Chardonnay. Apples and white peach flavors lead the palate which is impressive for its pure and unadulterated blast of pure Chardonnay fruit. Continued fruit and nut characteristics are joined by a bevy of spices such a clove and nutmeg on the finish which has excellent length. This is a balanced Chardonnay that shows off firm acidity and a lovely structure. The Kidnapper’s Vineyard Chardonnay is going to be equally adept at quenching thirst on it’s own as it will be paired with the lighter foods that are prevalent in warm weather months.

There are a ton of Chardonnay options on our shelves, emanating from just about every corner of the globe. The styles and flavors are almost as diverse as the number of options. This particular wine is a great choice if you’re looking for a Chardonnay that showcases rather than hides its brilliant fruit flavors. For less than $20 if you shop around this wine is also more than fairly priced.

Posted in Chardonnay, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Folie à Deux – Sonoma – 2010 Chardonnay / 2010 Merlot / 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon / 2009 Zinfandel

Posted by Gabe on May 7, 2012

Folie à Deux is probably best known by consumers for their popular Ménage à Trois line of wines. Both the red and white blends in those wines have been offering consumers’ value driven offerings for many years. There are also some varietal wines in the Ménage à Trois tier which are produced from fruit sourced in a range of places throughout California. I recently tasted some new wines that Folie à Deux has released. These offerings focus on specific areas within Sonoma County. I’ll take a look at the four new releases today.

The Folie à Deux 2010 Chardonnay was produced from fruit sourced in the Russian River Valley. This offering is 100% Chardonnay. Fruit was fermented almost exclusively in French oak barrels. Barrel aging occurred over five months in a combination of French and American oak; 22% of the barrels were new. 16,500 cases of this Chardonnay were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $18. Pineapple aromas dominate the nose of this 2010 Chardonnay along with hints of vanilla bean. The palate shows off an explosion of pure fruit with Granny Smith and Yellow Delicious apple characteristics stealing the show. Lemon zest and Anjou pear flavors are present as well. Pie crust, baker’s spices and white pepper all emerge on the finish which has good length. This is an appealing Chardonnay that shows off good varietal character. It’ll work well all by itself or paired with lighter foods.

The Folie à Deux 2010 Merlot was produced from fruit sourced in several Sonoma County appellations. Most of the fruit however came from Alexander Valley. This wine is a blend of Merlot (92%), Syrah (7%), and Petite Sirah (1%). Barrel aging occurred over nine months in a combination of French and American oak; 36% of the barrels were new, 13,000 cases of this Merlot were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $18. Aromas of leather, black cherry and vanilla fill the nose of this Merlot. Raspberry flavors emerge on the palate along with continued cherry characteristics (red and black). Tobacco, kirsch liqueur, minerals and white pepper all show themselves on the finish which has good length. This Merlot has firm structure and is true to its varietal. Those are both excellent qualities in a well priced wine that will be easy to find nationally.

The Folie à Deux 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon was produced exclusively from fruit sourced in Alexander Valley. This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel aging was accomplished over 18 months in a combination of French and American oak; 17% of the barrels were new. 19,600 cases of this Cabernet Sauvignon were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $24. Aromas of smoke, leather, cherry and bits of green herb fill the appealing nose of this 2009 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Black plum, raspberry, blackberry and cherry flavors fill the palate of this wine which is towards the upper end of medium bodied. Bits of graphite, sour cherry, black pepper and cardamom spice emerge on the finish which has very good length for its category. This Cabernet features firm acidity and soft, yielding tannins; it also shows off the virtues of good Alexander Valley Cabernet while simultaneously being primed for consumption early in its life when it’s appealing fruit flavors are at their best.

The Folie à Deux 2009 Zinfandel was produced from fruit sourced in Dry Creek Valley. This selection is a blend of Zinfandel (90%) and Petite Sirah (10%). Barrel aging was accomplished over roughly 12 months in a combination of French and American oak. 10,300 cases of this Zinfandel were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $18. The jam laden nose of this Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel shows off plum and raspberry aromas. Cherry and blackberry lead a brambly palate which is interspersed with bits of maraschino cherry. The generous dollop of Petite Sirah in this blend really helps the bottom end with deep, dark flavors such as black plum and boysenberry. Black raspberry, pepper spice and nutmeg emerge on the finish which has more than sufficient length. This wine has just enough of a jam component to make it a juicy and very forward, appealing Zin right out of the gate, It also has medium tannins and firm acidity making it a killer food wine perfectly suited to pair with anything off of your grill.

This quartet of wines from Folie à Deux does a fine job of showing off a few of the appellations within the broader scope of Sonoma County. Their friendly price points and wide availability also add to their appeal as go to wines when you’re out shopping for some selections that have crowd appeal for a summer BBQ or other get together.

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Wine, Zinfandel | Leave a Comment »

« Previous Entries
 
Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 279 other followers