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Dinner with Cuvaison Winemaker Steve Rogstad

Posted by Gabe on February 26, 2013

Cuvaison Winery has a history in Napa Valley that dates back to 1969. However they were reset in 1979 when the Schmidheiny family from Switzerland purchased the property. A decade ago they built a new facility in Carneros under the stewardship of winery president Jay Schuppert and winemaker Steve Rogstad, who both joined on in 2002 and are still onboard. Previous to that the wines were made in Calistoga where they still own a facility and a satellite tasting room. Last week I had the opportunity to have dinner with Steve Rogstad at Tocqueville. We tasted through the core releases as well as a couple of wines made from the Brandlin Estate on Mount Veeder. My thoughts on my favorite wines from the evening follow.

The Cuvaison 2011 Estate Chardonnay Carneros is their flagship offering. It makes up roughly 75% of their total production which varies between 40 and 50,000 cases from one vintage to the next. The fruit for this wine came from 44 distinct blocks within their Estate. Each lot was picked and vinified separately. This Chardonnay was barrel fermented and aged in French oak for 8 months; 20% of the barrels utilized were new. This widely available wine has a suggested retail price of $25. This is a gorgeous Chardonnay with clean and crisp flavors. Apple aromas lead the nose and carry on to the palate. Tropical fruit flavors join in as well with pineapple and guava of particular note. Spice, minerals and a little kiss of crème fraiche emerge on the finish which has nice length. It is classic example of well made Carneros Chardonnay that allows the fruit to shine brilliantly through. This wine is a very solid value at its price point.

The Cuvaison 2011 Kite Tail Chardonnay is produced each year from a single block. This block is planted to the Wente clone. The fruit was hand harvested and whole cluster pressed. It was fermented and aged in barrel over 15 months in French oak; 50% of the barrels utilized were new. This wine has a suggested price of $42. Hints of smoke and toast light up the nose of this Chardonnay along with bits of orchard fruit. The flavors here are more concentrated and have a greater intensity. Apple and pear are in strong evidence along with a bit of mango. Bits of toasted almond, and copious spices such as nutmeg and white pepper emerge on the finish which has substantial length. Tasting these two Chardonnays side by side is a tiny little window into how diverse this grape is. In this case multiple factors play in to the distinction. Both wines are delicious and interesting in their own right.

The Cuvaison 2011 Estate Pinot Noir Carneros was produced with fruit sourced from 20 distinct blocks within the Winery Estate. Each block was vinified separately. Barrel aging took place over 11 months in small oak barrels; 30% of them were new. This wine has a suggested retail price of $38. Fresh red fruit aromas fill the nose of this Pinot Noir. Bing cherry and strawberry characteristics are at play on the palate along with a bit of cinnamon and black pepper spice. Raspberry emerges on the finish along with wisps of rhubarb and earth. As a counterpoint to the Estate Chardonnay this is an equally engaging and well made example of Carneros Pinot.

The Brandlin Estate Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon is largely varietal (94%), with small amounts of Petit Verdot (4%), Malbec (1%) and Cabernet Franc (1%) blended in. This wine was aged over 22 months in French oak; 50% of the barrels utilized were new. This wine has a suggested retail price of $55. Cuvaison purchased this property, which has been farmed by the Brandlin family since the 1870’s in the late 90’s. This is a historic Napa vineyard whose history they honor by name and in practice. Less than 40 of the 170 acres have been planted to vine. There’s a ton of excellent Cabernet Sauvignon in NapaValley. Personally I think some of the most compelling examples are made from mountain fruit. This selection from Brandlin is no exception. Black fruit aromas dominate the nose along with hints of toast. This is a young Cabernet and it’s a bit tight out of the bottle right now. It opens up nicely with some air and shows off blackberry and raspberry fruit flavors as well as hints of cocoa. Earth and black pepper emerge on the finish which has good length. This wine has firm, gripping tannins and solid structure. It’s tasty now but will be even better a few years from now. This is a nice example of Mt. Veeder Cabernet.

The connective tissue with the wines Steve Rogstad is making for Cuvaison and their Mount Veeder Property Brandlin is proportion. These are lovely, vineyard-driven wines that pair well with a wide array of foods and quite frankly life in general. Each wine is distinct yet it’s clear the guiding hand and winery principles employed at Cuvaison have led to the creation and maintaining of an impressive portfolio that leads with their property in Carneros and the beautiful grapes that are grown there. Add to that the rugged Cabernet and other Bordeaux varietals of Mt. Veeder and the picture of a producer that lets their properties speak through the bottle emerges. It’s always a pleasure to taste wines alongside the person who shepherded them into existence. When the winemaker is one like Steve Rogstad with his wealth of experience in the business in general and at his length of tenure at his current Winery, its all the more interesting and informative.

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Wine, Winemaker Dinner | Leave a Comment »

Visiting Williams Selyem Winery in Sonoma County

Posted by Gabe on February 4, 2013

Williams Selyem Winery has been making wine in Sonoma County since 1981. It was that year that they produced their first vintage of Pinot Noir. Since then their portfolio has been expanded a bit and there are a handful of other varietals in the mix; however they are first and foremost a Pinot Noir House. A couple of weeks ago I had the opportunity to visit them and taste through some current and older releases, as well as tour the facility.

Williams Selyem graciously welcomes visitors by advance appointment. Check their website for specific details. Pulling up to the winery, the facility is impressive in a number of ways. On the one hand it’s a beautiful structure that would look good anywhere. Secondly and somewhat more importantly it fits perfectly into its surroundings. When they built this new winery property a few years back they surely kept the idea of being shepherds of the land in mind. From every angle I walked the facility, inside and out, it literally seemed as if it had been gently dropped into the vineyard land so as not to disturb anything. And in fact numerous trees of significant age are about as close to the building as one could possibly imagine. It’s also an eye-catching edifice inside and out without ever being ostentatious in any way.

William-Selyem is best known for Pinot Noir and their portfolio is dotted with single vineyard designate wines and cuvee offerings. In addition to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Zinfandel and a port produced from traditional Portuguese varietals are part of the mix. One of the interesting production methods that sets them apart is the use of Dairy Bins for fermentation. These large, rectangular bins offer a larger surface area than traditional fermentation vessels. They’re so ingrained in the production process that William-Selyem has a company routinely looking out for additional bins for them to acquire. Once they are purchased, the bins are retrofitted to comply with their needs. While a small amount of wines go out in distribution, 96% of their production is sold direct to consumers. They have had a robust mailing list of admirer’s for years that’s the envy of many others in the industry. Allocations are largely based on time on the list and buying history.

Quite a number of well made and delicious wines passed my lips while I visited; here are my impressions of a handful of selections that particularly stood out that day.

Williams Selyem 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay. The fruit for this entirely stainless steel fermented wine was sourced at three vineyards; Drake Estate Vineyard, Olivet Lane Vineyard, and Lazy W Ranch located on Westside   Road. This was a preview of a wine being released this spring. It’s going to have a price of $37. Orchard fruit aromas fill the fresh and vibrant nose of this wine. Tart green apple flavors are prominent on the palate along with bits of lime and pear. Minerals and an undercurrent of spice emerge on the finish which is clean and crisp. If I were to sum up this wine in one word it would be lovely. Those who aren’t fond of overdone, over-oaked Chardonnay should do whatever they can to acquire their own stash of this wine. It’s beautiful, refreshing and simply a pleasure to drink.

Williams Selyem 2010 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. The fruit for this cuvee style offering was sourcec at a combination of five vineyards; Bucher Vineyard,  Drake Estate Vineyard, the Foss Vineyard, the Lone Oak Vineyard, and Williams Selyem Estate Vineyard. Oak aging took place over 11 months in a combination of new (25%), once used (50%), and twice used (25%) barrels. This wine which was released last spring sells for $37. Both red and black fruit aromas fill the nose of this Pinot Noir. This theme continues through the palate where black cherry characteristics take a starring role. Raspberry, earth, black tea and a gentle wisp of anise all emerge on the finish which has excellent length. Fine acidity provides a firm backbone. This is a really terrific Pinot Noir in the under $40 category.

Williams Selyem 2005 Vista Verde Pinot Noir. This wine was made entirely from fruit sourced at the Vista Verde Vineyard. The location of this vineyard is just south of Holister, near where Calera, another highly regarded California Pinot Noir house is located. Barrel aging took place over 15 months in a combination of new (65%) and once used (35%) oak. At release this wine sold for $49. From the first whiff to the last sip this wine showed itself to be in its sweet spot. At just over seven years old it’s showing subtle cherry aromas on the nose. The palate leads with gingerbread spice notes that are accompanied by red fruits. Earth, sour cherry and a bit of tea are present in the finish which has terrific length. This is a stunning wine at its peak.

Williams Selyem 1998 Central Coast Pinot Noir. This wine was produced from Estate Vineyards located south of Hollister. Their Central Coast release typically spends 10 months in a combination of new (33%), once used (33%) and twice used (33%) oak. The current release sells for $39. At first blush this wine was a bit closed off and honestly I thought it might be gone. However a few minutes in the glass did wonders. Ultimately I was knocked out by how very much alive this 15 year old Pinot Noir is. Good lively fruit marked the nose and palate, with zippy acidity and a core of spices playing along as well. Impressive for its age and well worth drinking if you can get your hands on a bottle. This underscores the importance of balance and its role in the age-ability of wines.

If you’re a Pinot Noir lover traveling to Sonoma County Williams Selyem should be on your short list of producers to visit. This is a relatively small outfit, doing things in a unique manner with consistently noteworthy results. And if for some strange reason Pinot Noir isn’t your thing, the Zinfandel, Chardonnay and Port are quite tasty as well.

Posted in Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Wine, Winery Visit, Zinfandel | Leave a Comment »

Dinner with Winemaker Bernard Portet

Posted by Gabe on December 4, 2012

Last week I was lucky enough to sit and taste wine over dinner with Bernard Portet at Union Square Cafe. He was one of the founders of Napa Valley stalwart Clos du Val. Bernard was with them in a variety of capacities until just a couple of years ago, when he retired. That retirement didn’t last very long and now he’s involved with a smaller, personal project called Heritance. It’s been my good fortune over the years to sit across numerous tables, tasting counters and barrels from a wide array of winemakers. These opportunities are always a pleasure and it is also quite educational to learn about and taste wines with the person responsible for their existence. The experience is all the better when what the winemaker describes and what I taste in the glass true up; somewhat remarkably this isn’t always the case. I’m happy to report that the wines that I tasted with Bernard were exactly what he was describing, well balanced, food friendly offerings that will age appropriately for their intended styles. What follows are my thoughts on a few of my favorites from the evening.

Heritance 2010 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc. This offering is made utilizing mostly Sauvignon Blanc (91%), with a small amount of Semillon (9%) blended in. Aging of this wine took place in stainless steel. 2,000 cases were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $24. This is a fresh and lively Sauvignon Blanc with a mid-weight palate. The Semillon adds to that weight as well as to the complexity and roundness. The acidity here is firm but not aggressive. Citrus and orchard fruit characteristics are in evidence throughout and they’re buoyed by subtle wisps of grass. This is an absolutely awesome Sauvignon Blanc that can be described as pure elegance. If the only wine I tasted that evening was this Sauvignon Blanc I would have been happy to drink it all night. We also sampled the 2011 vintage and instead of Semillon it has a dollop of Roussanne blended in. It’s a nice wine as well that needs a few months before it really comes into its own.

Heritance 2011 Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir. All of the fruit for this wine was sourced in Carneros. Fermentation took place in open top, stainless steel tanks with twice daily punch downs. Barrel aging took place in previously used French oak 300 cases of this release were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $45. This wine opens with an enormously fragrant nose loaded with Bing cherry, spices and bits of leather. Cherry, strawberry and spice are in abundance through the palate which is even keeled and loaded with depth. Pomegranate and sour cherry are in evidence on the finish along with black pepper and mineral elements. This wine is loaded with varietal character and does a great job of showcasing what excellent Pinot Noir from Carneros is all about.

Heritance 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (94%), Merlot (4%) and Petit Verdot (2%). The fruit for this wine was hand harvested and fermentation took place over 10 days at high temperatures. Barrel aging occurred over 20 months in a combination of new and previously used French oak. 5,796 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $36. Black fruit aromas lead the nose of this Cabernet Sauvignon. The palate is rich and velvety with plum and black raspberry flavors leading the charge. Chocolate and espresso notes are in evidence on the finish which has good length. Firm tannins yield with some air. This is a nicely structured Cabernet that works well today with richly flavored foods. Over time it will soften and become more elegant. The 2008 which I also had the opportunity to sample is a delicious, ready to drink now Cabernet. Its style and graceful elegance speak volumes to where the 2010 is likely to be in a year or so. $36 for Napa Cabernet of this quality is, to say the least, a terrific value.

In addition to these wines we tasted several others; one particular standout was a 1979 Cabernet Sauvignon that Bernard made at Clos du Val. It was delicious and loaded with lively fruit and excellent character. It still has several years, perhaps a decade of life ahead of it. I asked Bernard why he picked the 1979 in particular and he indicated that while the 1978 had been hailed critically, he had personally always been a bigger fan of the 1979 which he felt even back then showed great promise. Bernard has a long track record of producing well made, approachable, food friendly wines that will age gracefully. The bottom line is that all the wines I sampled at dinner, which fall under his new label, continue that tradition. In addition to being well crafted and taking advantage of his 40 + years of experience they are also excellent values in their respective categories.

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Wine | 1 Comment »

Viña Ventisquero – 2012 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc / 2011 Reserva Pinot Noir / 2010 Grey Carmenère / 2009 Grey Cabernet Sauvignon

Posted by Gabe on November 26, 2012

When I was in Chile last month I participated in a virtual Blogger tasting. I’d taken part in previous tastings of that kind from home before. But on this occasion I was onsite in an adjacent room while the winemakers discussed their varied offerings a few feet away. Getting to mingle with a roomful of winemakers before and after the tasting was one of many highlights that dotted a wonderful week in Chile. There were several standouts for me that day; one of them came from producer Viña Ventisquero. The Cabernet Sauvignon from their Grey tier of wines really made an impression, so once I was back home I decided to take a closer look at a few of their current releases. Here are my thoughts on four of them including the Cabernet Sauvignon I tasted while in Chile and had the opportunity to revisit for this story.

The Ventisquero 2012 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc was produced using fruit sourced in Chile’s Casablanca Valley. This wine is 100% varietal. After fermentation the wine was aged on the lees for a period of four months. This offering has a suggested retail price of $12.99. The nose here is fresh and lively with citrus and orchard fruits in abundance; hints of spice play a supporting role. A grassy undercurrent underlies the palate which is framed by lemon zest, orange and grapefruit characteristics. Limestone, white pepper, and a touch of vanilla bean lead the finish which is light, fruity, zesty and crisp. This Sauvignon Blanc will pair wonderfully with entrée salads, soft cheeses and roasted veggies to name a few choices. It’s also quite delicious all by itself. There are quite a few excellent Sauvignon Blanc’s coming out f Chile at a host of different price points with a variety of intents. In the roughly $10 range this selection from Ventisquero is a terrific value that is indicative of the great things being accomplished with this grape in Chile. Drink this wine over the next year or so when it’s young, vibrant flavors are at their most exuberant.

The Ventisquero 2011 Reserva Pinot Noir was made utilizing fruit sourced in Casablanca Valley. This offering is 100% Pinot. Fermentation took place in temperature controlled open tanks. The wine was aged in a combination of French oak (70%) and stainless steel (30%) over a period of 10 months. This Pinot has a suggested retail price of $12.99. Bing cherry, wild strawberry and vanilla bean characteristics are in full evidence on the nose of this wine. Hints of mushroom and gentle red fruit flavors make up the even keeled palate. Cranberry, pomegranate leather and spices are part of the finish which has solid length and persistence. This is a perfectly dry wine with tons of varietal character, two things often not in evidence in Pinot Noir at this price level. The bottom line is this wine is an extraordinary Pinot Noir for the price. This would be an excellent wine to buy a case or more of. If you’re searching for a wine to have around the house to give out as stocking stuffers or last minute gifts look no further. Your Pinot loving friends and family will thank you for turning them on to this tremendous little value.

The Ventisquero 2010 Grey Carmenère was produced from fruit sourced at Trinidad Vineyard in Chile’s Maipo Valley. This is a 100% varietal offering. Fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks followed by aging in French oak over 18 months. 33% of the barrels utilized were new. An additional 8 months of bottle aging occurred prior to release. This wine has a suggested retail price of $23.99. Boysenberry, vanilla and violet aromas burst out from the nose of this Carmenère. The palate is juicy and pleasing with plums, blackberry and berry fruit flavors galore. Green herb notes underscore things here and play a supporting role. Black tea, plum pudding spices, minerals and black pepper all emerge on the finish. There is a lovely balance in this wine with loads of eager fruit buoyed by lots of spice and a lovely collection of herbaceous characteristics. The Ventisquero Carmenère works equally well paired with full flavored foods as it does on its own.

The Ventisquero 2009 Grey Cabernet Sauvignon was made using fruit sourced from within Block 38 which is a hillside section of the Trinidad Vineyard in Maipo Valley. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (94%), this wine also has some Petit Verdot (6%) blended in. This wine was entirely aged in French oak over 18 months; 33% of the barrels were new. No less than 8 months of bottle aging followed prior to release. The Ventisquero Grey Cabernet Sauvignon has a suggested retail price of $23.99. Cherry and raspberry aromas dominate the nose of this 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon. White pepper and hints of anise support the plate which is loaded with red fruits in the form of wild strawberry and cherry. Hints of black fruits are present as well and they dart through from time to time. Clove, cinnamon and a bit of nutmeg emerge on the finish along with cocoa, minerals and continued cherry and other warming red fruit flavors. This is an elegant, well structured and beautifully proportioned wine for the money. A Cabernet at this level of quality from some other regions would easily retail for $35-$40. This wine is delicious now and will drink well over the next 8 or so years. However it’ll be at its best over the next 5.

It’s fair to say I was highly impressed with this quartet of wines. The Reserva line offerings are excellent buys in their price range. If you drink wines for around $10 you’re going to be really happy with what you get for your money here. The Pinot Noir in particular is brilliant. There are very, very few Pinot Noirs under $15 that are worth spending much time talking about. This example from Ventisquero is amongst their tiny number. The Grey tier wines are quite lovely as well. It was nice to see that the Cabernet Sauvignon was equally notable when I re-tasted it at home roughly a month after sampling it in Chile. Their portfolio, like that of many Chilean producers is vast, with the quality of these 4 selections I look forward to exploring it further and reporting on my findings; I suspect their will be some other gems to be had.

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Chile, Petit Verdot, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Trione Vineyards & Winery: Looking at a Tasty Quartet of Sonoma County Wines

Posted by Gabe on November 20, 2012

For more than 30 years the Trione Family has been growing and selling grapes in Sonoma County from their own property as well as vineyards they manage. In 2005 they launched Trione Vineyards & Winery to bottle their own wines. They hired Scot Covington as winemaker. He brings both winemaking experience in Sonoma County and elsewhere to the table as well as winery building and design knowledge. Here’s a look at a few of their current releases, all made from fruit sourced in Sonoma County.

First up is the Trione 2008 Russian River Valley Syrah. The fruit for this wine was sourced from 2 blocks within their Russian River Ranch. Fermentation took place in small open top tanks. Barrel aging occurred over 18 months in French oak; 40% of the barrels were new. 678 cases of this Syrah were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $32. Black plum, violet, rose petal, and vanilla aromas fill out the nose of this 2008 Syrah. Dried Blackberry, cherry and blueberry fruit characteristics are all in evidence on the palate. Dusty cocoa, earth, chicory and savory herbs all emerge on the finish which has terrific length. This Syrah shows off beautiful structure, firm acidity and medium tannins that yield with some air. This is a new world Syrah that shows off old world inspired style.

The Trione 2009 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir was made utilizing fruit sourced at four blocks within their property. These blocks are planted to clones 115, 667 and 777. The fruit was harvested by hand and fermented in small open top tanks. Barrel aging took place over 15 months in entirely French oak; 45% of them were new. 1,114 cases of the 2009 Trione Pinot Noir were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $32. Cherries, white pepper and wisps of mushroom aromas fill the nose of this 2009 Pinot Noir. Wild strawberries, continued cherries, loads of spice notes and a subtle hint of cola are all in evidence throughout the palate. Black tea, pomegranate and earth characteristics emerge on the finish which has substantial length and persistence. This Pinot was a bit tight on opening but its charms came out in droves after it had a bit of aeration. My recommendation is to decant for an hour or so if you’re going to drink it over the next 2 years. Alternately, lay it down for a few years if you have the patience. In either case this is a fine example of Russian River Pinot Noir.

Trione’s 2008 Alexander Valley Red Wine is a Bordeaux inspired blend. This offering includes Cabernet Sauvignon (53%), Merlot (22%), Petit Verdot (11%), Cabernet Franc (10%), and Malbec (4%). The fruit for this wine came from three properties within Alexander Valley. Each varietal was fermented separately. Barrel aging took place over 18 months in French oak; half of them were new. 2,435, 6-pack cases of this blend were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $48. Fresh red and black berry aromas, vanilla bean and green herbs illuminate the nose of this 2008 blend. The plate is studded with dried red fruit flavors interspersed with black fruits and spice elements such as black pepper and cardamom. Sour cherries, black tea and a host of minerals are in evidence on the finish. This wine has terrific structure and is well proportioned. It will age gracefully for at least a decade.

Last but not least is the Trione 2007 Alexander Valley Block 21 Cabernet Sauvignon. All of the Cabernet comes from the Trione Cloverdale Ranch which is in the northern portion of Alexander Valley. The vines sourced were planted in 2001 to clone 337. In addition to Cabernet (85%) this wine has small amounts of Merlot (10%) from Geyserville as well as Petit Verdot (2.5%) and Malbec (2.5%) from Cloverdale. This wine spent a total of 24 months in barrel, 12 months prior to blending and another 12 after. All of it was French oak and 45% of the barrels were new. 733 cases were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $64. Boisterous dark berry aromas are buoyed by cardamom and hints of toast on the nose of this 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. The palate is laden with an avalanche of sweet, dark berry flavors laced with just a speckle of green herbs. Minerals, earth, clove, white pepper, black cherries and cinnamon are all in evidence on the finish which has excellent length. What’s most impressive to me about this wine is the depth and purity of fruit favors that just beam forth from the glass from the first impression to the final sip. At 5 years old this Cabernet Sauvignon is at the beginning of its true accessibility. It will drink well over the next 8-12 years. This is a fine example of how good Cabernet from Alexander Valley can be.

This is a diverse and appetizing quartet of wines from Trione Vineyards & Winery. The common threads that run through them are character, balance and elegance. These are all lovely offerings that will drink well for a number of years. This was my first time trying their wines and I look forward to drinking future releases from them to see how they progress as a producer.

Posted in Blends, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Syrah/Shiraz, Wine | Leave a Comment »

A Visit to Veramonte in Chile’s Casablanca Valley

Posted by Gabe on October 29, 2012

Rodrigo Soto, Director of Winemaking

Years ago when I first started drinking Chilean wines I tasted some juice from a host of producers, many of them blurry to the memory at this late date. However a select few of the names still resonate for me; one of those is Veramonte. I recall drinking and enjoying several of their varietal wines, which make up the Reserva tier, consistently, the Sauvignon Blanc in particular has long been a favorite value wine of mine. My interest shifted to a higher gear for me when they first released Primus, a Red Blend. That was an impressive wine for the money when it was first released. As time went on I drank more and more Chilean wines but kept returning to the Veramonte releases. In the last few years that’s included the Ritual line of wines as well as the expanded lineup under the Primus name. So when I found out Veramonte was on the itinerary of Winery visits for my Chile trip I was thrilled. There is something particularly interesting and exciting to me about visiting a winery for the first time whose wines I’ve enjoyed for close to two decades. I wondered what I’d learn, that the contents of all those empty Veramonte bottles hadn’t taught me.

Most of our visit was spent with Winemaker Rodrigo Soto as our guide. He’s the Director of Winemaking for Veramonte and prior to his current gig he most recently spent six years working at Benzinger Family Winery in Sonoma County. Benzinger is well known for their Sustainable and Biodynamic winemaking practices. In speaking to Rodrigo it was fascinating to learn what he has planned for Veramonte. This is a successful winery that already makes delicious wines, but he and owner Agustin Huneeus aren’t satisfied with that. Their drive is to completely change the farming practices, eschewing herbicides and the like for sustainable and natural methods. The goal is Sheppard these vineyards for future generations, as well as of course making even more delicious wines. Rodrigo made the point that Chilean wine in general stands today where California did a couple of decades ago. As such, the perspective and knowledge Rodrigo gained working in Sonoma will serve Veramonte well on their move to the next level. After a tour of the winery and a look at some vineyards we sat down and tasted some highlights of the current portfolio. What follows are some brief impressions of a couple of my favorites.

Veramonte – 2011 Ritual Sauvignon Blanc – This wine is richer and riper than the entry level Sauvignon Blanc. The palate has a bit more heft than the average Chilean Sauvignon Blanc. It’s a spicy and round wine with a mineral laden finish. Most of the fruit was sourced from two high performing blocks. Their goal of proactive farming as opposed to winery manipulation shines through in this release.

Veramonte – 2011 Ritual Pinot Noir - This wine has a fresh nose with cherry, strawberry and bits of herbs. Fruit leads the palate with savory/spice playing a lesser but present role. Black cherry and a touch of plum are present. The 2011 has a solid finish. This continues to be an excellent value.

The Ritual wines have been noteworthy to me since their release a handful of vintages back. The current editions do nothing to dissuade me, if anything the style has come fully into view with several consistent vintages under their belts. If you enjoy the Veramonte Reserva tier of wines, the releases in the Ritual range are an obvious place to go next. The Ritual wines are generally available under for $20.

In addition to the Veramonte wines we had the opportunity to taste Neyen This is a partnership between Raul Rojas who founded it in Apalta in 2002, and Agustin Huneeus. The wine is sourced from Old Vines in Apalta planted to Carménère and Cabernet Sauvignon. Neyen is their take on a single spectacular wine made from old vines in an area already regarded for some highly respected Chilean releases. This wine sells in the US for around $45 and the current vintage is the 2008. If you like big mouth-filling reds with depth and character it’s one to consider. As delicious as it is today, my sense is that it will improve in the bottle over the next 5 years and be quite lovely for another 5 or 6 after that.

Veramonte was a place I was really looking forward to visiting. Not only did it meet my expectations it exceeded them on many levels. I’m excited by the plans they have to take things to a new level going forward. These wines are already well made, delicious and more than reasonably priced. More natural farming practices in the vineyards and around the winery in general stand to enhance what they’re doing. I’m excited to continue drinking these wines for years to come, you should be too!

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Chile, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Wine, Winery Visit | Leave a Comment »

Visiting Balletto Vineyards & Winery in Sonoma County

Posted by Gabe on August 20, 2012

It’s a good thing I keep lists. In this case it’s a list of Wineries in Sonoma County I keep meaning to get to but haven’t yet. Thankfully I can now scratch Balletto Vineyards & Winery off of that list. A couple of years back someone had poured one of their wines for me and It had left an impression. Subsequently a few people whose opinions I trust had mentioned them to me as well. But I kept running out of time on previous trips and never made it there, until last week. I’m quite glad that I did. Balletto Vineyards sits at 5700 Occidental Road, Santa Rosa, CA and their phone number is 707-568-2455. Balletto is open every day from 10 AM to 5 PM.

Balletto started out as growers and farmers and they still are, selling off roughly 90% of their fruit in most years. The tasting room has a country charm which instantly brings to mind classic Sonoma County. The day I visited they had roughly ten wines they were pouring. Overall, both whites and reds left a very good impression as did the welcoming nature of their tasting room and operation as a whole. Here’s a look at a few of the wines that stood out the most on my visit.

Balletto Vineyards & Winery 2010 Russian River Valley Estate Pinot Gris is the 9th vintage they have made of this particular release. All of the fruit came from their own vineyards. This wine is 100% Pinot Gris. Just fewer than 2,500 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $18. A welcoming nose shows of bits of Lychee as well as vanilla bean. The palate shows an impression of sweetness in the droves of stone fruit such as Apricot and White Peach. Lemon Zest rounds things out and leads to the finish which is clean and crisp with zippy acidity. This is perfectly suited to pair with spicy food and light meals; it’ll also work perfectly as a welcome wine.

The Balletto Vineyards & Winery  2009 Russian River Valley Estate Gewüurztraminer is the 5th vintage they have produced this wine. This is a single vineyard effort with all of the fruit coming from their Piner Road vineyard. It’s 100% Gewüurztraminer. Just over 500 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $18 but when I visited they were selling it for a bit less. White rose petal aromas emerge from the nose of this wine along with loads of fruit and hints of spice. Stone fruits, pear and bits of white pepper and vanilla are present on the palate which is gentle and layered with plenty of complexity. The finish here is lengthy as well as spice and mineral laden. This is a really beautiful example of Gewüurztraminer, something a bit too rare in California. Whether you drink it on it’s own or pair it with light foods, this wine is a sure fire winner.

The Balletto Vineyards & Winery 2011 Russian River Valley Estate Pinot Noir was produced from fruit sourced at 5 different vineyards within the winery’s Estate holdings. It’s all Estate fruit and this is the 11th year that they have produced this offering. It’s 100% Pinot Noir. Just fewer than 3.900 cases of this brand new release were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $29. Bits of tea and strawberry emerge on the slightly reticent nose of this 2011 Pinot Noir. This is a new release a bit on the young side and some additional time in the bottle will be a benefit. Cherry and cranberry lead the palate which has good depth as well as being gentle and proportionate. Nutmeg and clove as well as white pepper emerge on the finish along with bits of mineral characteristics. This is a really nice Cuvee style Pinot Noir that you should decant for an hour or two if you’re going to drink it soon. Otherwise hold it for another year or so and it’ll be immediately approachable.

The Balletto Vineyards & Winery 2009 Russian River Valley Estate Syrah is a Single site effort with all of the fruit coming from their Estate BCD Vineyard. This is the 5th vintage they have produced this wine. A mere 210 cases were made and it has a suggested retail price of $24. Aromas of smoked meats and black fruits fill the deep, dark nose of this Syrah. Dark, brooding fruits continue on the palate along with spices that include both white and black pepper. The smoked meat characteristics continue on the lengthy finish along with bits of dark, dusty chocolate. This wine, which is a killer example of how well Syrah can be made in CA when it’s grown and treated right, will pair well with a host of bold meat dishes.

I highly recommend Balletto Vineyards & Winery as a stop to anyone visiting Sonoma County. The wines are well made, delicious and quite reasonably priced. The folks manning the tasting room are friendly, welcoming and informative. In short it’s a great place to while away some time, tasting excellent wine. The day I visited they had several wines on sale which made those particular wines nothing short of a steal. It took me awhile to get there, but I’ll be back, on my very next trip.

Posted in Gewürztraminer, Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Syrah/Shiraz, Wine, Winery Visit | Leave a Comment »

Rodney Strong Vineyards – 2010 Chalk Hill Chardonnay / 2010 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Posted by Gabe on July 19, 2012

Rodney Strong Vineyards is a Sonoma County producer with an impressive and consumer friendly portfolio. If you’re a wine lover there’s a very good chance they have something you’ll like that also fits into your budget. Today I’ll take a look at two of their wines that I have tasted over numerous vintages which are consistently well made year after year.

The Rodney Strong Vineyards 2010 Chalk Hill Chardonnay was produced entirely from fruit sourced in the Chalk Hill appellation of Sonoma County. This offering is 100% Chardonnay. 92% of the wine was fermented in French oak and underwent malolactic fermentation. That portion was also aged in new and seasoned barrels for 9 months; the balance was fermented and aged in stainless steel. This widely available wine has a suggested retail price of $20. Aromas of vanilla, lemon zest and subtle toast emerge from the nose of this Chardonnay. Bartlett pear and yellow delicious apple flavors are dominant through the palate along with a wallop of zesty lemon curd which is one of the hallmarks of this wine year after year. Minerals, white pepper and baker’s spice are part of the finish along with hints of creaminess. Firm structure marked by solid acidity makes this a Chardonnay well heeled to pair with a variety of food styles. The Chalk Hill release from Rodney Strong is in that beautiful middle ground of Chardonnays that showcase pure fruit that are enhanced by judicious use of oak which is clearly present but never detracts. Drink it up, they make more every year.

The Rodney Strong Vineyards 2010 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir was produced from fruit sourced at a number of vineyards. The River East vineyard in Healdsburg which was planted by Rod Strong in 1968 is a chief contributor. This wine is 100% varietal. Barrel aging occurred over 11 months in entirely French oak. This wine is readily available nationally and has a suggested retail price of $20. Strawberry, leather, and cinnamon aromas are well represented on the nose of this Russian River Pinot Noir. Black Cherry flavors leads the palate and they’re joined by red plum, as well as continued bits of strawberry. Black tea, pepper and a treasure trove of spices as well as hints of red apple emerge on the finish which has very good length. Racy acidity and nice overall structure help make this a versatile food wine. If you’re looking for a dependable Russian River Pinot Noir for around $20, this wine has got to be on your list.

It’s probably clear by now that I’m a big fan of the Rodney Strong Vineyards wines. As much as I do like the wines though, I’m an even bigger fan of what this winery represents. They’re a widely available brand that provides fair value at numerous price tiers. Consumers should have the confidence to buy wine with the Rodney Strong name on it knowing that they are getting a well made wine that represents a real place, Sonoma County. Not everyone has the wide selection available that we do in some parts of the country, the time to research them when we do or in some cases the resources to blindly take a chance on a bottle. With Rodney Strong Vineyards you’re placing a safe bet that you will win.

Posted in Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery – 2010 Sauvignon Blanc / 2009 Pinot Noir

Posted by Gabe on June 25, 2012

Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery has a distinguished history in Sonoma County as a producer. They’re best known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay made with Burgundian intent. Their portfolio offers several other varietals as well. Today I’ll look at two of their current releases.

The Gary Farrell 2010 Sauvignon Blanc was produced from fruit sourced at Redwood Ranch in Sonoma County. This vineyard sits at the very southern end of Alexander Valley. The vines sourced for this offering were planted in 1997. The Gary Farrell 2010 Sauvignon Blanc is a 100% varietal wine. This wine was bottled n January 2011 after a short time in oak. Just over 1,500 cases of this offering were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $25. Pear and citrus aromas fill the nose of this 2010 Sauvignon Blanc. Copious quantities of citrus and topical fruit flavors such as yellow plum, mango and lemon zest are layered throughout a welcoming and weighty mid-palate. Spice and continued fruit flavors fill the impressively lengthy finish of this Sauvignon Blanc. If you prefer Sauvignon Blanc that leans towards the tropical and fruity side, this beauty is for you.

The Gary Farrell 2009 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir was produced from fruit sourced at a small handful of Vineyards. These well known growers within Russian River Valley are regarded specifically for Pinot Noir. The fruit was hand picked over a period of roughly 30 days as each source came to maturity. Barrel aging took place over roughly 8 months. 3,230 cases of this widely available offering were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $42. Wild Strawberry, clove, cardamom, and tobacco aromas are all in evidence on the engaging nose of this 2009 Pinot Noir. Black cherry and leather emerge from the palate along with continued strawberry and spice. Black pepper, graphite and bits of cola along with sour cherry, pomegranate and a touch of toast are present on the finish which has above average length. Firm acidity marks the fine structure of this wine which is delicious now but will improve over the next handful of years and drink well for a decade.

Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery has long been associated with quality wines from Sonoma County that exhibit a wonderful sense of place. Both of these wines continue that story and each of them is well worth seeking out.

Posted in Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Davis Bynum – 2010 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Posted by Gabe on April 30, 2012

Davis Bynum was the first winery to produce a Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Over the years they’ve established a long track record of well made, varietally correct Pinot Noir. A couple of years ago the winery was acquired by the owners of Rodney Strong, another terrific Sonoma County producer. Having had several vintages under their stewardship it’s good to see that the string of excellent Pinot continues unabated. Today I’ll take a look at their 2010.

The Davis Bynum 2010 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir was produced from fruit sourced from vineyards located in a small sub section of the Russian River Valley. This offering is 100% Pinot Noir. The fruit was hand harvested prior to cluster and berry sorting. Fermentation was cool and temperature controlled. Barrel aging occurred over 10 months in 100% French oak. 8,500 cases of this vintage were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $35.

Fresh wild strawberry aromas lead the nose which also shows off herbs and a dollop of earth. The palate tastes like a bowl of fresh red berries. Those fruit flavors are accompanied by loads of spices such as clove, white pepper and a hint of fennel. Sour red cherry, rhubarb and raspberry are all in evidence throughout the lengthy finish along with a hint of black tea. Firm acidity keeps things balanced and helps make The Davis Bynum 2010 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir a marvelous food lovers wine.

It’s nice to be able to count on certain things; the wines of Davis Bynum as well as their sister winery Rodney Strong are two things you can count on for consistent quality and value. My recommendation is to drink them up whenever you get the chance.

Posted in Pinot Noir, Wine | Leave a Comment »

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