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Archive for the ‘Winery Visit’ Category

Visiting Benessere Vineyards in Napa Valley

Posted by Gabe on June 9, 2011

On my most recent trip to Napa Valley I had the opportunity to visit Benessere Vineyards, while there I spent some time with winemaker Jack Stuart. He’s been on board at Benessere for roughly a year and he’s set to usher in the winery’s next era. Of late he’d been working on his own projects, but prior to that he’d been the winemaker at Napa Valley stalwart Silverado for more than 20 years.

The focus at Benessere is on Italian varietals. Sangiovese, Pinot Grigio. Muscat Canelli, and Aglianico are all part of the portfolio. Their Rosato contains Sangiovese as well, and they make several Zinfandels in addition to a couple of other releases. Each wine in the portfolio I tasted on my visit was distinct. What ties the Benessere wines together is that they are well balanced offerings loaded with varietal character; each of them is primed to pair with food.

In speaking to Jack I was able the gleam quite a bit about his approach to winemaking and what changes he intends on a go forward basis for the Benessere wines. In fact it’s fair to say that his intent is to take the traits I feel are already strong about the wines and take them to the next level. From a technical standpoint he’s making small changes with the oak treatment some of the wines receive, using French instead of American in spots he feels that’s appropriate. Another example is improving the Pinot Grigio by working to craft one without the bit of residual sugar that has cropped up in some vintages.

Benessere makes a couple of single vineyard Zinfandels which are impressive for a couple of reasons. Importantly, the Benessere Zinfandels are distinct, as single vineyard wines should be. Unfortunately not every single-vineyard wine on the market is as distinct and special as that designation is intended to indicate. That’s not an issue at Benessere where the Zinfandel is made in a classic style which compared to some of the other Zinfandels on the market today would be considered restrained. In truth what they are is impeccably balanced and age-worthy, showing off a sense of place that makes them noteworthy.

Benessere Vineyards is located at 1010 Big Tree Road in St Helena and they’re open daily from 10 AM to 5 PM. Check there website for more specific details as well as tasting and tour options. Benessere sits up on a quiet road in St. Helena, one of the least hectic parts of Napa Valley. It’s a serene atmosphere that seems far removed from the hustle and bustle that so often embodies Highway 29, just a stones throw away. The folks at Benessere are friendly and the wines are well made, quite delicious and more than fairly priced. If you’re going to be in Napa Valley I highly recommend setting aside some time out to visit them. Take a break from the endless array of Cabernet Sauvignon and sample some well made California versions of classic Italian varieties.

Also, please stay tuned as I’ll take a close look at some of the current releases from Benessere Vineyards right here over the next few weeks.

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Visiting Judd’s Hill Winery on the Silverado Trail in Napa Valley

Posted by Gabe on May 9, 2011

Wine tasting is one of the greatest and most relaxing ways to spend a couple of hours, a day or a week. If you spend enough time in tasting rooms it’s easy to pick out the places that are truly special. At the end of the day if the wine is good, that’s sufficient I suppose. That said some places take it to another level by treating their visitors particularly well or offering more than just a couple of pours at a bar in the corner. I spent the last week plus out in Napa and Sonoma and I found some excellent places to recommend. Once such producer is Judd’s Hill, which is located on the Silverado trail. If you hit the trail out of downtown Napa they’re quite literally the first producer you’ll run across.

Judd’s Hill is a boutique winery that sets itself apart from the masses in Napa in a number of ways. From the moment you drive onto their property you’ll feel like you’re transported to a different time. Their facility is just perfectly secluded enough to make this an incredibly serene environment. Lucky for us wine lovers that they share it with the public. Tastings at Judd’s Hill occur daily from 10 AM to 4 PM by prior appointment. The tasting room itself seems like anything but the standard bearer rooms you find at many other spots nearby. It’s a bright, well lit room, with a large conference style table at the center. The walls are adorned with artwork from both local artists who are being featured and members of the family such as founder Art Finkelstein. Tastings at Judd’s Hill are $10 (waived with a $45 purchase) and officially they have about 5 wines at a time they pour. However often they have other wines open which are gladly sampled for the keenly interested. Someone will guide you and/or your group through the tasting and walk you through the facility as well if you’re interested. Their wines are made both from estate and purchased fruit. What is distinct about the Judd’s Hill wines is that they are each well-balanced and loaded with varietal character. They’re also priced very fairly which is nice to see. Their new release 2010 Sauvignon Blanc ($24) is a particular standout in terms of being an exceptional value. The Estate Pinot Noir which is available only at the winery was my favorite of their current releases. I also got to sample a Merlot and several Cabernet Sauvignons. Each wine they poured for me was terrific and if you’re a fan of one of their wines there’s a good chance the portfolio in general will appeal to you. The reason for this is the house style which is aimed towards producing balanced and food friendly wines which are proportionate.

In addition to producing wines under their own label, Judd’s Hill is a custom crush facility. That means you can sign up to utilize their equipment and vast wine making acumen to make your own wines. Unlike many of the other such facilities out there Judd’s Hill is a Micro Crush facility; their focus is not on large commercial clients but rather on wine enthusiasts the world over who want a place to enjoy their hobby or start their small brand. By focusing on smaller clients, one barrel (24 cases) is the minimum; they can apply the same personal touches they do to their own small-lot wines and tasting room visitors to their Micro Crush clients. Their website contains many more details, but in short someone who wants to participate can pick exactly which parts of the process they want to be involved in, Judd’s Hill will handle the rest for you.

Judd’s Hill also offers a wine club that can be customized to suit your personal tastes and needs. This includes selecting the number of bottles you receive (shipments are quarterly), as well as an option to receive red wines only. Wine club members are also welcome to pick their wines up at Judd’s Hill. That sounds like a perfect reason to stop by for a taste every 3 months. They also throw events throughout the year including wine pick up parties. If you’re lucky, winery namesake Judd Finkelstein’s Ukulele band will be playing.

So whether you’re in Napa Valley looking to taste wine or you want to bottle some of your own, Judd’s Hill is a place to keep in mind. Their friendly, welcoming atmosphere as well as eclectic artistry and tastes guarantee you’ll have spent time at a special and distinct place when you eventually walk out their door. Call them at 707-255-2332 to schedule a visit; you’ll be glad you did.

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Visiting Signorello Estate in Napa Valley

Posted by Gabe on May 4, 2011

I’ve been travelling to Napa Valley since the early 90’s. Even with trips out here several times a year there are wineries that have existed that whole time that I have yet to get to. With that in mind I try to scratch a few off of my list each time out so I can taste their wine and of course see what they’re up to. One such producer whose wines I’ve been drinking over the years is Signorello Estate located on Silverado Trail. Even before landing I had them on my short list of places to finally get to this trip. I’m happy to say I’m very glad I did.

The drive up the road to Signorello Estate from Silverado trail isn’t a long one, but when you reach the top you’re sure to feel like you’ve entered a special place. The grounds are stunning and the colors of the tasting room building inside and out are warm and inviting. When I reached their tasting counter I was greeted enthusiastically and noted that there are several tasting options. In addition to current release and Reserve flights poured in the tasting room Signorello offers tours, food and wine pairings and picnics on their patio. The food is cooked in house, actually right in the tasting room which features an open kitchen area.

The day I visited the current releases being featured included two whites and three reds. This tasting is available for $15. The reserve tasting featured fived reds; within that a three year vertical of their Estate Cabernet Sauvignon and two vintages of “Padrone” their Proprietary Estate Blend. Depending on the day you go, they may have other treats open for you to sample. For example I got to experience a Cabernet Franc that was simply out of this world. One of my favorites amongst the current releases is their white blend “Seta.” This classic Bordeaux inspired blend is 60% Semillon and 40% Sauvignon Blanc, flipping the formula on most of the White Bordeaux style wines you’ll run across in California. It’s a really lovely wine that features a gentle palate layered with lots of flavor and a slightly zippy finish with good length. It’s delicious on its own but it’ll really work fabulously with lighter foods.

At the other end of the spectrum I thought that their proprietary Red “Padrone” was a knockout wine. I tasted both the 2006 and 2007. Currently the 2007 is a bit more accessible and ready to drink. However both are beefy, Cabernet based wines that will age gracefully for a minimum of 15 years. Other wines I tasted included Chardonnay, Syrah and Zinfandel. There’s clearly a house style at Signorello; Proportion, grace, balance and precise power are the words I’d use to describe that style. Each wine I sampled was loaded with varietal character and made in a food friendly style. I had the chance to speak to Pierre Birebent for quite awhile and he’s a charming host and great ambassador for these wines, not to mention a killer winemaker. He’s been at Signorello since 1998 after working at several other places as a vineyard manager, a title he also retains here. His passion for making excellent wines that are balanced but not wimpy was obvious in speaking to him. He’s clearly achieving his goal.

Out in back of the tasting room is beautiful patio and pool, where events and some of the tastings take place. The view is nothing short of stunning. Truthfully it took me much longer to visit Signorello Estate than it should have. One thing is for certain, it won’t take me nearly as long to get back. Their picnic on the patio sounds way too tempting, plus the wine is outstanding. I highly recommend you add Signorello to the itinerary on your next trip to Napa too! These folks are doing a wonderful job and a stop will be well worth your time and money.

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Visiting Medlock Ames in Alexander Valley

Posted by Gabe on April 30, 2011

Much like Wineries come in all shapes and sizes so do Winery visits. When I landed in San Francisco yesterday I had quite a few wineries on my list to visit during my trip. I didn’t however have any specific plans for my first day. My itinerary that initial day involved getting settled in and attending Gateway to Passport in Healdsburg. Of course though once I was settled in and had several hours to spare I headed off to make a couple of stops. On my way to my first stop I passed a tasting room I hadn’t noticed before in Alexander Valley I made a note and on the way back I stopped in to check out Medlock Ames.

Their tasting room sits on the same property that for decades housed the Alexander Valley Bar and Store. They rebuilt the structure on the same footprint using as much reclaimed material as they could. Walking in the feel is rustic, modern, incredibly natural and quite welcoming all at the same time. I made my way up to the tasting counter and noted that they have a couple of different options. Their standard flight of four wines is available to taste for $10 and their Library tasting which features those 4 plus others is $20. In addition to the tasting counter they also have a long, picnic like table that accommodates quite a few folks for a sit down tasting. The room is tastefully adorned; wine sits naturally throughout the room as does the olive oil and pickled vegetables they make. Medlock Ames is both sustainable and Biodynamic; that’s clear in their approach and the purity comes singing through when you taste their wines.

I sampled about 6 wines during my visit. The regular flight included, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. In addition to those I got to sample a Cabernet/Merlot blend and an earlier (2001) vintage of Merlot. Each of their wines was impressive in its own right. Varietal correctness is the order of the day and there is no doubt when you taste their Chardonnay for instance, the clarity of the grape shines. My personal favorite however is their Merlot. The fruit for this comes from their home estate on Bell Mountain. It’s mostly Merlot with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in. As it should this wine tastes like Merlot. It’s sad but there is a sea of uninspired, tired, flabby wine out there with Merlot written on the label. This is NOT that. This is a tremendous wine with great structure, pure fruit flavors, gripping tannins and a long, inspiring finish. This 2006 Merlot has excellent aging potential to boot. I also sampled the 2001 which was made from the same vineyard source. That 10 year old Merlot is in peak mode now and it’s drinking like velvet.

In the grand scheme of things Medlock Ames is a tiny producer. They make about 4,500 cases with plans to expand a little over the ensuing years. But the way they grow their wines, operate their business and shepherd their property makes them a very important player. They’re part of a movement that is increasing in size every day. This little boutique winery with a charming tasting room on a corner in Alexander Valley is well worth a visit. Check them out soon, you’ll be happy you did. I know I’m absolutely thrilled that I popped in yesterday. Sometimes these last minute, unplanned visits are the best kind, this one was a true delight.

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Visiting Opus One in Napa Valley

Posted by Gabe on December 1, 2010

Expectation can be a heavy burden to live up to. Whether it’s a film, book, a bottle of wine or an athlete’s performance, anything perceived as less that the anticipated result comes off as a let down. The same of course can be true for winery visits. Producers of all shapes and size the world over open their doors and invite folks in to taste their wares and perhaps tour their facility. Sometimes it’s easier to be wowed when you know nothing of the wine or the producer in question. Again, with a lack of expectation it’s somewhat easier to impress people. Folks in all lines of work do this all the time; under promise and over deliver, it’s a classic time honored technique. But with many of the world’s wineries, particularly the well known ones, their reputation is known and the expectation level exists. Such is the case with Napa Valley’s Opus One.

Last month I paid to Opus One with some friends. I’d been their once before and recalled it fondly, but it had been about 7 or 8 years so the details were dull. The wine itself is of course the stuff of legend. Founded in 1979 by Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild the goal from the outset was simple, greatness. These two legends of their respective wine worlds came together in Napa Valley to make one wine that would compete with the best of the best. It was to be an offering in the great Bordeaux style using the classic varieties which also flourish in Napa Valley. Pretty much from the outset the wines have been praised, setting the bar even higher.

So as my friends and I approached Opus One each of us had different ideas about what we’d find inside, but certainly we all had lofty expectations. Keeping that in mind it’s impressive to say the least that we were all knocked out by the experience. Our tour guide Yasko was part of the greatness of our visit. She’s been with Opus One for a few years and knows the history of the project amazingly well and answered every question we had. But well beyond that the grandeur of the facility is hard to miss. Everything about Opus One is as precisely as it was masterminded, regal and impressive. If I had a nickel for every barrel room I’ve seen on winery tours, well I’d have quite a few nickels. They come in all styles and sizes but at the end of the day not many of them make my jaw drop. I’d seen the barrel room at Opus One before, but still it was a sight to behold. The same came be said for the tank room and other pieces of the wine making facility. The entrance, the tasting area and essentially every last square inch of Opus One is on a different rung than most wineries. It’s intended to be both a working winery and a knock your socks off showplace and it succeeds admirably at both of those things.

At the end of the tour, right after being wowed by the barrel room we had the opportunity to taste the current release of Opus One, the 2007. I was left with a similar impression that I’ve had each time I’ve tasted a new release of their wine. It was impressively structured and tasty, but ultimately tight and in need of some time in the bottle to really resolve itself fully. Hopefully most of the folks who are spending the money to invest in this wine ($195.00 SRP) are also patient enough to give it a few years of time. A few minutes later tasting the 2005 vintage proved to be a revelation in itself. While I believe it still has quite a few years ahead of it, the 2005 Opus One is performing phenomenally right now. It’s a showcase wine and if you want to bowl your wine loving friends over and you can locate some 2005, it’s sure to do the trick.

Touring and tasting at Opus One is neither the least or most expensive proposition in Napa Valley. However it’s an incredibly impressive display of greatness that actually lives up to the hype; something my entire group of four could attest to. So if you’re heading to Napa Valley and you want do something nice for yourself and maybe for your friends too, book a tour at Opus One, you won’t forget it. The cost is $40 and you should book in advance. I for one know that I won’t let another 7 or 8 years pass until my next visit. How could I, I don’t want to forget what the experience was like. Sometimes expectations as grand as they are can be met and exceeded.

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Visiting Domaine Carneros in Napa

Posted by Gabe on November 7, 2010

Every time I travel to California Wine Country I undergo a lot of internal tussling. Honestly long before I even book a flight I’m thinking about where I want to go to taste wine. There are of course hundreds of options. But making the choice even tougher is the lure of old favorites, sitting on my shoulder and whispering in my ear like a comfortable, well known angel.  There’s something to be said for revisiting something you love, particularly the attraction of new vintages. On the other shoulder sits the unknown. This angel doesn’t look familiar but he whispers to me about unusual delights that I have yet to experience. In the end I try to strike a balance between the two with the unknown angel getting a little more of my attention. Each trip I also attempt to come up with some places I have been meaning to visit but somehow have managed to elude me. I visited one such spot a couple of days ago, Domaine Carneros. I’ve driven past Domaine Carneros more often than I could possibly count, and I’ve had some of their wine before. But for one reason or another I was always passing by on my way somewhere with a clock ticking.

I had a 3 PM appointment for a tour and tasting and I arrived in their entryway just before that and was warmly greeted. Moments later a gentleman by the name of Jean Claude came over and introduced himself. He was our guide for the tour, and so much more. I’ve been on many wine tours and it was immediately obvious that this was going to be a noteworthy one. Jean Claude has a passion for his subject, an ability to read his audience that many don’t posses, and enough personal warmth to fill a room. The tour I was on had a total of 10 people on it; Jean Claude managed to connect on some level with every one of them. Along the way he showed us around the facility and told us about the history of Domaine Carneros as well as the Carneros appellation itself. We tasted a quartet of Sparkling Wines on our journey, from their most widely available release, to wines that are a bit harder to come by on store shelves. In short a well planned cross section of their Sparkling Wines. In an engaging and easy to follow manner that never spoke down to anyone Jean Claude went through the production of Sparkling Wine. As we did this we made our way through the facility and saw different parts of it. It was an A to Z on Sparkling Wine that provided good basic knowledge for a newer wine lover but also a level of detail that would hold the attention of a more veteran taster.

When we were finished with the Sparkling wines we sat down in a lovely bar area and Jean Claude guided us through a trio of Pinot Noirs from the Portfolio. He spoke about these as well and we enjoyed them alongside a light snack of nuts.

At the end of the tour I was lucky enough to get a chance to spend time with still Winemaker TJ Evans. He poured me an additional sparkling wine I had yet to taste and then we headed to the barrel room.  Once there TJ showed me some lots of wine with varying age on them. Some were specific clones and others a blend of more than one. I was able to get a real window into his winemaking philosophy and where the Pinot Noir Program at Domaine Carneros is headed. In his time there he’s added a few releases to the line and it looks like he’ll continue to tinker and add things when he feels the fruit justifies it.  After going through some barrels TJ showed me some older wines. While he didn’t make the 2000 and 2001 Pinot Noir he poured for me tasting them was an eye opener as he’s working with the same vines. It’s clear that the fruit those vines produces can make Pinot Noir which has the ability to age.

Taking a tour at Domaine Carneros costs $25 and lasts approximately 90 minutes. In that time you’ll learn quite a bit about the Estate, their wines, Sparkling Wine and Pinot Noir in general and Carneros. We tasted seven wines in that period and they were well spaced out with plenty of time to enjoy and contemplate them. Domaine Carneros is a beautiful property and they make terrific wines, both still and sparkling. If you’re going to be in the Napa area, don’t wait as long as I did, get to Domaine Carneros, it’s well worth your time, effort and money. I should also note that if you don’t have time for a tour there are also numerous tasting options available as well. Check their website for details. My initial instinct was right on, this was a noteworthy tour and visit.

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Visiting The House of Sandeman in Portugal

Posted by Gabe on November 3, 2010

One of the many highlights of my recent trip to Portugal was visiting Sandeman Cellars in Porto. Tasting a producers wine is one thing, you can conceivably do that anywhere. But the experience is always heightened for me when I get to do it in the winery itself. When you consider that Sandeman has a history dating all the way back to 1790 it’s immediately obvious that a visit there is at least, partially a step back in time. By the same token the upkeep on the facility is staggeringly on point. The sections that could and should be modernized are, the portions that are best as they were, remain intact with care.

Being in close proximity to the water and walking into Sandeman Cellars was breathtaking. The history contained in the city and even in that single facility is stunning. There’s something impressive and regal about Sandeman Cellars as an edifice even as you approach it. Perhaps it’s the Sandeman Don looking down on you, or it’s the stucco and stone work that has weathered beautifully over time. In any case it’s hard not to be swept up in the times gone by. But then you have to consider that this is very much a working facility. In earlier days the Port was vinified on site. Now it’s made elsewhere, up in the Douro, and stored in casks and barrels of varying size in Porto. Walking through the cellar I felt as if the wine angels and ghosts of Ports past were walking alongside me. I practically felt them over my shoulder when I tasted some of the wines too.

George Sandeman

George Sandeman, who is a descendent of the founder, guided us through the facility on my visit and he was a wealth of information. The tour included a look at lots of historical Sandeman artifacts encompassing documents, classic artwork and even older bottle styles. Looking at pictures of these sorts of things is one thing, to see them inches away a whole other experience. The all-inclusive tour includes a short film that serves to fill visitors in on the history of Sandeman and their production of Port. Again watching it is one thing but doing it a few feet away from barrels full of port, a very different experience. The same can be said for tasting Port not only in Sandeman, but in the very heart and soul of Porto. This is the mother of fortified wines and to taste it in its true birthplace and natural home felt as right as enjoying a glass of wine can.

The coup de grace for me was something that admittedly not every visitor will get to experience. I want to mention it however as it left a deep impression. The group I was travelling with had the good fortune to enjoy dinner in the Sandeman boardroom. We were graciously hosted by George Sandeman and several other terrific folks who work in a variety of capacities for Sandeman. In addition to the great food, the kicker was tasting several of the ports as well as other Portuguese wines alongside dinner. I’m a firm believe that wine is really an important part of a meal, so that’s my preferred method of enjoying it. Tasting Sandeman Ports alongside Portuguese cuisine is even more effective because you get to taste the wines precisely as the winemaker might when they’re putting together blends and making decisions on what works and what doesn’t.

While I was in Porto I took the time to scope out a number of Port producers. As you’d expect there are a lot of them, many of them well worth your time. However if you only have the time to visit one producer in Porto, I believe Sandeman Cellars is a perfect choice. They have the history that will wow you, the consistency of quality that will keep you coming back vintage after vintage, and the stylistic variety to appease most every palate. Once you sample the Sanedman Ports you’ll want to procure them again back home. So it’s also important to note the wide availability of the lion’s share of their different port wines. If you like Port wine and haven’t had a Sandeman, I’m not sure what you’re waiting for. If you’re new to Port the wide berth of styles and price points available under the umbrella that is their portfolio makes them a natural place to start.

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Tasting the Phifer Pavitt 2006 Date Night Cabernet Sauvignon

Posted by Gabe on May 14, 2010

My time in Napa is always precious. This most recent trip, a few weeks back, it was particularly so. While I was spending nine days in wine country tasting, only one was in Napa Valley. Spending one day in Napa feels like an eye blink to me, so I planned the day as well and carefully as I could. A couple of friends were going to be with me for the whole day so whatever I planned they’d be in on, something for me to be mindful of as I planned. When I was presented with the opportunity to meet Suzanne Phifer Pavitt, taste her wine and have dinner with her, I took  the chance. Even though the day was already pretty full, and I was unfamiliar with her or her wine it seemed like exactly the sort of great opportunity with fortuitous timing that pops up on the best trips to Napa Valley. Without question I’m glad I did.

My friends and I met Suzanne at her property on the Silverado Trail. We got to see the Phifer Pavitt tasting room which is currently being completed. After seeing the property and getting a little bit of her history we made our way to dinner so we could learn more and taste her wine. Suzanne and her husband Shane spent a lot of date nights meeting up at various locations throughout California. At first their relationship was long distance and they would pick a place to meet and have a date night each week. Eventually once they were together it led them to buying property in Napa. Those date nights then started taking place on their property, where they dreamed of what it would become.

When the time came to name their wine they realized that Date Night was the natural choice for them. Sure it sounds catchy but for them the name embodies the essence of how they got around to making a wine to begin with. It’s rare (at least for me) to meet a person and feel as if you already knew them. Suzanne has that quality about her. She’s incredibly engaging and charming. Being from Georgia she’s imbued with down home hospitality; quite frankly it pours out of her.

Between stopping at her property and sitting in the restaurant we were all talking for close to a couple of hours and we hadn’t actually tasted her wine yet. At that point I was hoping I would like her wine because I already liked her. I’d have been genuinely disappointed if it turned out I didn’t care for her wine. The good news is that her wine is pretty terrific. Suzanne and her husband make a single offering, Cabernet Sauvignon. They’re currently on their second vintage which is 2006. The fruit is from the Pope Valley section of Napa. In addition to Cabernet winemaker Ted Osborne blended in 2% Petit Verdot. They made 275 cases of this wine and it has a suggested retail price of $75.

Over the course of a leisurely and delicious meal at Solbar we went through two bottles of Date Night and it left a lasting impression. The Phifer Pavitt 2006 Date Night Cabernet Sauvignon is classic example of Cabernet from the valley to my taste buds. Make no mistake it’s a big and bold wine, but it’s structured, well-balanced, and remarkably even, throughout a very persistent palate. The flavors are remarkably mouth-filling and completely take over, but do not overwhelm your senses. The finish is lengthy and the flavors linger for a good long while. The tannins are finely knit and give this Cabernet the structure to age gracefully over the next 6 or so years. And while it will certainly improve in the bottle, this Cabernet is ready to go now. This wine is simultaneously bold, refined and elegant. Date Night Cabernet Sauvignon harkens back a few years in my opinion, to when the goal was to make delicious, drinkable wine that had legs, not specifically to chase scores.

Before too long the Phifer Pavitt tasting room will be open. I highly recommend that you stop by. Tasting the wine and meeting the people behind it is likely to be an occasion you won’t forget. I generally only speak for myself but in this case I can safely say my friends and I all had a wonderful time getting to know Suzanne and her excellent Date Night Cabernet Sauvignon. I eagerly anticipate tasting the next vintage.

Photos by David Vermeire

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Visiting Smith-Madrone Winery on Spring Mountain

Posted by Gabe on May 10, 2010

I’ve travelled to Napa Valley often over the last two decades, and still the list of wineries I have yet to visit, that I want to visit, seems bottomless. Okay well perhaps not bottomless, but there sure are quite a few places I have yet to make it to. Every trip out in addition to recommendations and spots I stumble on I do my best to cross a few off the master list in my mind, of producers I need to visit. One that has been rumbling around in my mind for some time is Smith-Madrone. They’re a Spring Mountain producer that has been around since 1971

While I had tasted their wine a few times over the years my knowledge of Smith-Madrone was largely by reputation. So when I arrived at their property with a couple of friends I was a sponge ready to soak in whatever I could about them. Visiting on Spring Mountain is always particularly exciting to me. It’s off the beaten path and lots of folks don’t make it up there, so it seems a little like a secret wine mission. Once there we were greeted by Stu Smith, half of the Smith brother’s team at the helm of the winery.

Stu took us on a tour of their vineyards and taught us a lot about their property as well as things in Napa I wasn’t aware of. One example was the political struggle in the valley faced by mountain vineyards when compared to the folks on the valley floor. It was pretty fascinating to hear especially from a guy like Stu who is incredibly passionate, well spoken and unfiltered in the best way possible.

The Smith-Madrone portfolio includes Chardonnay, Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon. At one time they also made Pinot Noir. Touring their vineyards it was instructive to note the diversity in their topography, spacing, and training. Some of their blocks are being replanted so it was informative to see the plantings that dated back to the early days of the winery versus the current plantings as well as those in between.

After a fun, informative and sometimes rollicking ride through the vineyard with Stu as our guide we made our way back to the winery itself. It was at this point that we met his brother Charles. While they both seem pretty involved in every aspect of the operation Charles leans towards the winemaking side and Stu towards the vineyard management side.

Tasting through the wines was as much of a revelation as the vineyard tour. Between current vintages, prior vintages and barrel samples we were fortunate enough to taste a few examples of each of their three releases. I didn’t make formal note so I can’t go into great detail about each wine. However as a whole they were impressive. The Chardonnays were really clean and full of fruit. The older of the two (2007 I believe) we tasted from bottle was a bit leaner and had more mineral notes than its younger brother. The Rieslings also featured pure expressions of fruit. There was an impression of sweetness, though they were in fact quite beautifully dry. The Cabernets were simply a knockout. Of the ones we sampled the 2004 was probably my favorite. I have found that when they’re well made, wines that emanate from mountain fruit often show off a pure and intense expression of flavor that is unique. This was the case with the Smith-Madrone Cabernets. They are fruit driven and intense without being fruity and over the top. They are powerful and at the same time elegant and refined. I enjoyed all three varietals quite a bit as they are well made, correct expressions of the grape in question. However the Cabernets for me (at least on the day I tasted them) were just a notch above the Riesling and Chardonnay. Though I’d happily drink any of them.

Before the end of our visit we enjoyed a casual picnic lunch overlooking their vineyards at a table right outside their barrel room. The lively banter we all enjoyed about the world of wine in general was a lot of fun. It also gave me a window into Charles and Stu’s thoughts about some wines outside of their own. Most important to me tough was to have their wine alongside some food. As delicious as they were on their own, having them with a picnic lunch enhanced the experience, which is as it should be with wine in my opinion. Much sooner than I wanted to we had to say goodbye to Charles and Stu so we could make it to another appointment on time. While this was my first visit to Smith-Madrone, it certainly won’t be my last. Their open and gregarious nature, desire to share their vineyards and wines are refreshing and reason enough to visit. Of course the wines themselves makes a pretty strong argument as well. When you mix well made wine, with lovely people you have a sure fire winner in my book. Smith-Madrone is a winery I wish I’d visited sooner and one that it’s well worth your time to make an appointment to visit. When your trip to wine country is over it’s sure to be one of the spots you spend a lot of time talking about.

Photos by David Vermeire

Posted in Wine, Winery Visit | Leave a Comment »

Visiting Jordan Winery In Alexander Valley

Posted by Gabe on May 6, 2010

Last week I had the opportunity to tour Jordan Vineyards & Winery, as well as taste their wines. While I had been there once in the past, it had been a number of years, so I was eager to see what if anything had changed in the ensuing years.

Jordan Winery is a classic Sonoma County Estate, both because of their facility and the wines they produce. In a world where many producers have an ever increasing roster of wines, Jordan has remained hyper-focused on two things; Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. If you’re going to train the laser so closely on two varietals, it’s a very good idea to get those wines right.

I had the fortune of being an overnight guest on the Jordan property. That allowed me to really take things in and spend quite a number of hours just thinking about them and their wines. In my time there I had the opportunity to taste through several vintages each of Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. I didn’t make formal notes, but my general impressions are included here.

At one time the Chardonnay was taken from their home estate in Alexander Valley. That’s no longer the case as they now source fruit under long term contracts from growers in the Russian River Valley. In tasting through the 2005, 2007 & 2008 vintages of Chardonnay the overall quality of the wine was obvious. There was a clear consistency in style, yet obvious vintage variation that allowed each wine to speak on its own. Most impressive to me was the 2005. Not that it was significantly better than the other two. In fact it would be tough to distinguish between the three as far as general quality goes. What knocked me out was how fresh, vital and full of fruit the 2005 still was. At 5 years old it showed no sign of letting up and I’d be surprised if it doesn’t drink well for several more years. Certainly the younger wines were even fresher and showed off a bit more bold fruit, with the 2005 featuring more mineral characteristics. Looking forward they all seem headed down the same delicious and long lived path.

The story with the Cabernet Sauvignon was similar. The older vintage of that wine I had the chance to taste was the 2000. It also displayed much more vibrant fruit than I would have expected at this point. I was particularly impressed with the holding power of this wine when taking into account all the 2000 Cabernet Sauvignons from both Sonoma and Napa Valley that are unimpressive. That wine goes a long way towards supporting the axiom that great winemakers shine in tough vintages. Rob Davis who has been at Jordan since the beginning has done an impressive job of helming these wines over the years without getting complacent. The Cabernet Sauvignon program has also had some changes over the last few years. At one time all the fruit was from their Estate. They now source some fruit from other growers. Mendocino is one of the notable locations they go to for outside fruit. Their goal is to make the best wine possible and if that includes some fruit sourcing that’s the direction they take. The more current releases of Cabernet Sauvignon I tasted again showed consistency of quality as well overall style. Despite being located in Alexander Valley Jordan is very much making wines that take old world styling into account. Balance and longevity are both big parts of the program.

The inside and outside of the Jordan Winery facility are beautiful and each has a charm that makes it seem it’s been there much longer than the 30+ years it has been. Touring the property is a revelation. It’s hard to properly describe how mammoth it is in size and scope. Perhaps the only thing more impressive than that is the shear beauty on display. Many wineries are almost all vineyard. This isn’t a surprise when you take into account the cost of acreage. Jordan has its vineyards of course, but they’re surrounded by acres and acres of unspoiled land.

Often times when I reach for a bottle of wine I go for the new and unknown. That can be fun and exciting. If you want a sure bet though Jordan Winery is a great go to choice. They continue to bring an excellent product to market almost four decades into their existence. Many producers with similarly big reputations have gotten apathetic and rested on their laurels. To the contrary it’s clear to me that Jordan keeps reaching for the brass ring. They respect their own past, but they constantly strive to tweak their present, on a constant drive for perfection. So if you’re reaching for Alexander Valley Cabernet or Chardonnay these folks are worth the time and the money. If you’re going to taste wine in Alexander Valley, it’s worth making an appointment. Their staff is filled with friendly people loaded with information about their winery. The photos below will give you a hint about the beauty that awaits you if you visit.

Photos by David Vermeire

Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Wine, Winery Visit | 1 Comment »

 
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