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Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

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Pinot Noir

Masút Vineyards and Winery - 2010 Estate Pinot Noir

I was quite impressed with the 2009 vintage of Masút Pinot Noir. So when the 2010 came across my desk I was particularly excited to sample it and see if it compared favorably to that previous vintage. Masút Vineyards and Winery was founded by third generation vintners Ben and Jacob Fetzer. They’re a small family own and run winery specializing in Pinot Noir; a grape that has gained tremendous popularity in the United States over the last decade and is becoming a key varietal for Mendocino County. Today I’ll take a look at the 2010 release The Masút 2010 Estate Pinot Noir was sourced from the winery’s 23 acre hillside parcel. This vineyard was planted in 1997. The property is split into numerous blocks; 13 different ones, hand picked over 12 days were utilized to create this Pinot Noir. After hand sorting and destemming the fruit was fermented over 16 days in stainless steel utilizing both native and select yeasts. Barrel aging occurred over 11 months in French oak; 50% of the barrels were new. 1,400 6 bottles cases of this release were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $40.

Wild strawberry, leather, mushroom and thyme aromas leap from the glass of this 2010 Pinot Noir. The palate is loaded with appealing and eager fresh, red fruit flavors; strawberry, cherry and raspberry are all here in abundance. Gingerbread spices kick in along with white pepper towards the back of the palate. The finish is impressively persistent and shows off rhubarb, sour cherry, black raspberry and a bit of green peppercorn. This wine is finely structured and has lively and vibrant acidity. It's easy to enjoy on its own and will pair favorably with an incredibly wide array of foods

This Pinot has depth and layer upon layer of delicious flavors to spare. I recommend decanting this wine if you’re going to consume it over the next year or two. It’s ever so slightly tight and some air really allows it to open up and showcase all its charms. As great as the 2009 release was, this one is strikingly better. The bottom line for me: The Masút 2010 Estate Pinot Noir represents everything that great Pinot Noir from California should be. If you love Pinot Noir I can’t recommend this wine vociferously enough; grab it before it’s gone.

Craggy Range 2010 Pinot Noir "Te Muna Road"

The Craggy Range 2010 Pinot Noir is a single vineyard effort. All of the fruit for this wine is from the Te Muna Road Vineyard which is located in the Martinborough region of New Zealand. The fruit for this wine (100% Pinot Noir) was hand harvested. It was fermented in open top stainless steel tanks and inoculated with native yeasts. Oak aging was accomplished over 9 months in small barrels; 31% of them were new. This wine is available in select countries around the world and it has a suggested retail price of $45.99. This Pinot Noir is a tad reticent when you first open it. About 30 minutes of air in the decanter really does the trick allowing this wine to come into its own. Aromas of mushroom, cherry and strawberry are all present. The palate is intricately layered and loaded with oodles of appealing flavors; wild strawberry, bing and black cherry, cardamom and coriander are all present. Earth, sour cherry, rhubarb, white pepper and hints of cola are on display throughout the long and persistent finish.

New Zealand first made its mark by showing the world what it can do with Sauvignon Blanc. Of late we’ve also been lucky to be seeing more and more Pinot Noir’s from New Zealand on our shelves. This single vineyard selection from Craggy Range is an exceptionally nice example of the varietal. It’s delicious now with a touch of air and will improve in the bottle over the next 4-7 years. If you like Pinot’s that are pure and loaded with expressive character, the Te Muna Road is one you should aim to try.

Matrix Winery - 2009 Bacigalupi Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir

Matrix Winery located on Westside Road in the Russian River Valley of Sonoma makes wine from a number of different varietals. Chardonnay, Zinfandel, and Petite Sirah are each part of their portfolio. First and foremost however they’re a Pinot Noir House. They make a host of small lot, single vineyard efforts and Cuvee’s from fruit sourced at local vineyards within their own appellation. Today I’ll look at one of their reserve tier wines from the famed Bacigalupi Vineyard. The Matrix Winery 2009 Bacigalupi Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir is a single vineyard effort produced exclusively from fruit sourced at the namesake vineyard. Bacigalupi Vineyard was planted in 1995 and 2003 to the 667 and Wadensville Clones. After hand harvesting the grapes were fermented in small open top vessels utilizing native yeasts. This Pinot Noir spent 18 months aging in French oak. It was bottled unfined. A mere 124 cases of this offering were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $52.

Aromas of cherry and earth abound on the nose of this 2009 Pinot Noir. The palate is rich, deeply layered and loaded with complex flavors. Fresh cherry and raspberry pie characteristics dominate with hints of jammy fruit representing secondary flavors. Rhubarb, continued raspberry and spice in the form of black pepper, nutmeg and clove all emerge on the finish. This wine has excellent length, firm structure and racy acidity. While its tasty on it’s own I would recommend pairing this with roasted meats, mushroom based dishes or funky, full flavored cheeses. If you have the patience to cellar this Pinot it’ll age gracefully for the next 8 or so years. This is a wonderful example of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir.

Parducci - 2009 "Small Lot Blend" Pinot Noir

Inexpensive Pinot Noir that actually looks, smells and tastes like what the label says is an all too uncommon thing. Pinot is a tough grape to grow as legions of winemakers will attest. Its popularity as a varietal causes there to be way too many poor examples on store shelves. So I’m always looking for good Pinot and I’m particularly interested in examples that are appropriate for everyday drinking. Parducci Wine Cellars recently unveiled a smaller production Pinot. I’ll take a look at it today. The Parducci 2009 Small Lot Blend Pinot Noir was produced using select, individually vinified lots of wine. This offering is 100% Pinot Noir. The fruit comes from both Mendocino where Parducci is based and the Sierra Foothills. All of the fruit utilized is sustainable as with all Parducci wines. Barrel aging took place over six months; 15% in new French oak and the balance in a combination of seasoned oak and Redwood tanks. 6,000 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $12.

Earth, cherry, toast and rose petal aromas fill the deep nose of this 2009 Pinot Noir. The palate on this wine is gentle and layered with red fruits; cherry and strawberry are both of note. Chicory and spice emerge on the finish which has good length. This wine has soft, pliable tannins and firm acidity. This is a fine Pinot to sip on its own or better yet pair with a meal.

For $12 this is a tremendous value in Pinot Noir. It blows away most of the other examples in this price range. Most importantly it’s genuinely Pinot Noir. This would be an excellent wine to consider a case purchase of as a house wine. Parducci routinely turns out very good value wines that are emblematic of their Mendocino origins. This Pinot Noir is another in that line.

Matrix Winery - 2009 Buoncristiani Vineyard Pinot Noir / 2009 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir / 2009 Nunes Vineyard Pinot Noir

For years a lot of the Pinot Noir in California was grown in some questionable (for Pinot) locations. Over time vineyard managers and winemakers learned more about the unique spots that are best for this legendarily finicky grape. One appellation that was long ago indentified as a Pinot Noir haven is the Russian River Valley. Today I’ll look at a trio of new releases from Matrix Winery. The Matrix Winery 2009 Buoncristiani Vineyard Pinot Noir was made using Russian River Valley Fruit. This is a single vineyard effort made entirely from Pinot Noir. The Buoncristiani Vineyard which was planted in 2002, and sits 150 feet above sea level, features clones 115 and 777. After hand harvesting the fruit was fermented utilizing native yeasts. Barrel aging took place over 19 months in French oak. 199 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $36.

Aromas of cherry, spice, earth and mushroom are all present on the nose of this Pinot Noir. Fruitcake spices, strawberry, and plum flavors are all in evidence through the palate which has nice depth. Rhubarb and sour cherry highlight the finish which is long and warming. Red fruits star and are tinged by hints of black. This is a classic example of Russian River Pinot Noir. It’s delicious all by itself and will pair well with a wide variety of foods.

The Matrix Winery 2009 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir was produced using Russian River Valley Fruit. This is a single vineyard effort with all of the fruit sourced at the namesake vineyard. This offering is 100% Pinot Noir. The Bacigalupi vineyard which was planted in 1995 and 2003 features 2 clones, 667 and Wadensville. After being hand picked the fruit was fermented utilizing native yeast. The wine was aged over a period of 18 months in French oak. 199 cases were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $38.

Bright red cherry aromas fill the nose of this 2009 Pinot Noir. Hints of cedar and herb are in evidence as well. Strawberry, cherry and earth are joined by vanilla bean throughout the flavorful palate. Black cherry and rhubarb are both on hand through the finish which has good length. This wine is balanced by fine acidity. It drinks particularly nicely on its own and will also complement food. However, it’s a particularly nice bottle to sit in the corner and contemplate life with. It’s a little tight out of the bottle showing its youth. If you’re drinking it now I recommend decanting it for 90 minutes or so.

The Matrix Winery 2009 Nunes Vineyard Pinot Noir was made using Russian River Fruit. This single vineyard effort is made up of 100% Pinot Noir. The Nunes Vineyard was planted in 2000; it featurtes clones 115 and 777. Barrel aging took place over 18 months in all French oak. 199 cases of this release were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $42.

Aromas of dry wild strawberry and hints of green herbs fill the nose of this Pinot Noir. Cherry dominates the palate with both black and red fruits checking in; red raspberry is of particular note. The finish on this wine is quite long and loaded with spices, black tea and sour black cherry flavors. It has finely ground tannins and firm acidity making this a surefire bet with a vast multitude of different food styles. This wine is tasty now but is sure to be even better in a year or so. If you’re drinking it over the next 12 months, decant if for at least an hour for best results.

This is a fine group of releases from Matrix Winery. In addition to showcasing the appropriate nature of Russian River Valley as a bastion for Pinot Noir they also highlight the specific vineyards beautifully and distinctly. These are well priced, small lot wines that will each age nicely. In fact this entire trio, particularly the Nunes will really benefit from some additional time in the bottle. If you’re a fan of new world Pinot Noir these efforts from Matrix are worth your time and money.

Robert Mondavi Winery - 2010 Carneros Pinot Noir / 2009 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

The Robert Mondavi Winery hardly needs an introduction; simply put it’s a legend. Sometimes though we take those legends for granted and it’s useful to remind ourselves they’re there and remember why they achieved their status to begin with. With that in mind I’ll take a look today at two of their current releases. The Robert Mondavi Winery 2010 Pinot Noir was produced using mostly fruit sourced in Carneros (93%); the remainder of the fruit is from the Russian River Valley (7%). This offering is 100% Pinot Noir. The fruit was hand-picked and some of it was whole cluster pressed while the balance was de-stemmed. After fermentation this Pinot Noir was aged in French oak for 7 months; 34% of the barrels were new. This offering has a suggested retail price of $27.

Aromas of cherry, spice, and earthy mushrooms fill the nose of this 2010 Pinot Noir. Copious red and black cherry flavors are prominent on the palate along with wild strawberry and bits of pomegranate. Sweet and sour cherry flavors continue through the finish which also shows off lots of clove, nutmeg, white pepper and hints of cinnamon. This wine has fairly firm, gripping tannins that yield with some aeration. This Pinot Noir is tasty now but look for it to improve significantly in the next year and drink well for a couple of years after that. The Robert Mondavi 2010 Carneros Pinot Noir is a fine example of this grape in this appellation at a fair price.

The Robert Mondavi Winery 2009 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was produced using fruit sourced in Stag’s Leap and Oakville; 31% comes from the well regarded To Kalon vineyard. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (75%), this wine also contains small amounts of Merlot (11%), Cabernet Franc (10%), Syrah (2%), Petit Verdot (1%) and Malbec (1%). After hand harvesting the fruit was fermented in a combination of stainless steel and oak tanks. 17 Months of barrel aging followed in French oak; 15% of them were new. The Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet has a suggested retail price of $28.

Cigar box and eucalyptus support strong bramble aromas on the dark and inviting nose of this 2009 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Red raspberry and black cherry flavors lead the palate along with hints of sweet chocolate, toasty oak, blackberry and pepper. The solid finish shows off lots of earth, crushed cherries, and dusty dark cocoa. This wine has supple tannins that yield with air and time as well as firm acidity. This is an approachable Cabernet Sauvignon that will be at its best over the next 5-8 years.

These two wines are polar opposites of perception for me personally. The Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is the first wine that comes to mind for me with the Mondavi Winery. It’s a release that has been a solid example of the varietal for decades as well as a good value; it continues to be exactly that. Pinot Noir on the other hand, for whatever reason isn’t a varietal I associate as quickly with the Mondavi Winery. That being said I’ve had this wine on numerous occasions over the years and It’s been a solid performer. The 2010 provides really nice varietal character, sense of place and good value to boot. If you haven’t checked in with the Robert Mondavi Winery in awhile, these releases are a good reason to.

Gustave Lorentz - Cremant d’Alsace (NV) / 2009 Pinot Noir Le Rosé / 2007 Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim

Alsace France is a region that can certainly inspire tons of passion from wine lovers. White varietals rule the day here. When they are from excellent vineyards and made with care they can be nothing less than amazing. I recently tasted through most of the portfolio from Gustave Lorentz. This Alsatian family has been making wine since 1836. It was a pleasure and an eye-opener to samples these wines. As is typical of Alsace the majority of their offerings are white with a few reds in the mix as well. Both still and sparkling wines are part of the mix. I’ve liked each of the selections I’ve tasted from this producer but here are three diverse ones that really set themselves apart.

First up is the Gustave Lorentz Cremant d’Alsace (NV). This sparkling wine is composed of Chardonnay (33%), Pinot Blanc (33%) and Pinot Noir (33%). This offering was produced using the classic “Methode Champenpoise.” 4,500 cases of this wine were bottled and it has a suggested retail price of $24.99

The nose of this non vintage Sparkling Wine is remarkably fresh and lively with apple and green melon aromas of particular note. Brioche, juicy orchard fruits and bits of stone fruit are all part of the palate along with spice and mineral notes. The finish shows an inherent creaminess along with touches of candied lemon zest. This is a really nice sparkling wine for the money. It drinks well on it’s own but will work even better paired alongside light foods.

Next up is the Gustave Lorentz 2009 Pinot Noir Le Rosé. The grapes for this wine were picked as ripe as possible. This wine is 100% Pinot Noir. The fruit was sourced from vineyards that feature clay and limestone heavy soils. 2,000 cases of this Rosé were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

Fresh, ripe Bing cherry aromas drive the nose of this 2009 Rosé. Strawberries, cherries and vanilla characteristics are all at play through the palate. These are joined by hints of darker berry fruit and a touch of candied cherry. The darker fruit elements emerge a bit more forcefully in the finish along with a touch of white pepper. This wine is light and refreshing as most well made Rosé should be. But it also features more depth, weight and complexity than the average example. This wine will pair really well with light foods. A fruit and cheese plate would be perfect. Of course it should be chilled, but resist the temptation to over-chill this beauty.

The final wine in this trio is the Gustave Lorentz 2007 Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim. The fruit for this wine comes from the namesake classified Grand Cru site. This offering is all Gewürztraminer. The soils there feature heavy clay and limestone components. The vines average between 30 and 50 years of age. Fruit for this offering was hand picked and the whole grapes were pressed and this juice was separated from the free run juice. Fermentation took place with select and native yeasts in mature oak vats. It was aged in these vats for 11 months prior to bottling. 1,000 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $59.99.

Aromas of apple, yellow melon, vanilla and a touch of crème fraiche fill the expressive nose of this 2006 Gewürztraminer. Apricot and yellow peach notes are in abundance throughout the palate. A nice spice component featuring white pepper, cardamom and nutmeg is present as well. Lot’s of sweet yellow and white fruits continue through the impressively long and persistent finish which shows off a bit of a honey. In addition to the lengthy finish the purity of fruit is what strikes me as most impressive about this Gewürztraminer. This wine is delicious now, both on its own and paired with spicy foods in particular. However don’t hesitate to lay it down for the next 8-12 years.

This is a delicious trio of wines from Gustave Lorentz. That said don’t hesitate to try others with their name on the label either. I’ve sampled quite a few and each has been a winner.

A Trio of Thirst Quenching Quality Boxed Wines

With summer almost over it’s time to get friends and family together for a few more BBQ’s before the weather turns cool. Large gatherings mean lots of mouths to feed and plenty of thirsts to quench. Historically a lot of jokes have been made about boxed wine. And for many years the commentary, criticism and humor were warranted. However in the last 5 years things have taken a pretty dramatic turn for the better. There are a number of producers now putting quality wine out in boxes. This is often referred to as the bag in the box. More often than not these are 3 Liter containers which equates to four standard size bottles. These wines generally sell for right around $20 give or take a couple of dollars based on brand and where you’re shopping. If you were purchasing these as stand alone bottles you could expect to pay somewhere from $6- $9 per bottle. In addition to saving some money with the three liter format a few other advantages are part of things as well. Eschewing glass makes them more environmentally friendly. Additionally if you don’t finish them up no worries as the bag in a box concept keeps the wine fresh for approximately 30 days. Make no mistake there are still plenty of anonymous boxed wines you’ll want to avoid, but now there are also some very solid go to choices. Today I’ll look at three that I recommend. The Falling Star 2009 Chardonnay was produced from fruit sourced in the Mendoza region of Argentina. Falling Star is part of the Trapiche line and represents their budget label. After hand harvesting and fermentation the wine was ages in stainless steel tanks for approximately 6 months prior to a light filtration and bottling, This wine is available in 750 ml bottles, 1.5 L bottles and 3 Liter Boxes. I tasted out of 3 Liter box which has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

Tropical fruit aromas dot the nose of this Chardonnay from Argentina along with copious quantities of yellow and green apple. At the core of this wine is an inherent fruitiness. This is an engaging wine whose chief appeal is that it provides a pure blast of unadulterated Chardonnay flavor. The crisp, clean, refreshing finish shows off continued apple and orchard fruit flavors as well as wisps of minerals and lemon zest. Serve this Chardonnay well chilled at your next BBQ or party and the white wine lovers in the crowd will surely be pleased.

The Falling Star 2010 Malbec was produced from fruit sourced in Mendoza. Fruit was hand harvested and fermented for approximately 20 days at controlled, cool temperatures. 6 months of aging in stainless steel tanks followed prior to filtration and bottling. Much like the Chardonnay this wine is available in 3 sizes. The 3 Liter Box has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

Dark and brooding jam fruit aromas burst forth from the nose on this 2010 Malbec. A number of spices such as nutmeg, vanilla and cardamom make their presence known as well. Juicy, appealing, forward dark fruit flavors are the story of this wines palate. This wine is loaded with pleasing flavors that will make an impression on party guests and keep them coming back to the box for more.  This wine has a reasonable finish for its price point and it will pair well with just about anything off the grill.

The Folonari 2009 Fresh Cask Pinot Noir was made from fruit sourced in the Veneto. This Italian wine is 100% Pinot Noir. After fermentation 80% of the wine was aged for roughly 6 months in stainless steel, the remaining 20% in French oak barriques. This Pinot is available in 750 ml bottles, 1.5 liter bottles and 3 Liter boxes. The 3 Liter Box has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

Dried red fruit, clove, and bits of toast all emerge from the nose of this Pinot Noir. This wine features an even keeled palate where fruit and spice notes both play equally important roles. Dried black cherries, olive tapenade and bits of herbs are all present. A touch of smoke, sweet strawberry and vanilla crème all emerge on the finish. This is a balanced and dry wine with terrific acidity. The Folinari 3 Liter Pinot Noir would be a perfect choice to serve if you’re having a big pasta or pizza party.

Each of these Boxes of wine represents a solid value in its category. They’re appealing wines, meant to please crowds of people. They succeed quite admirably on that score. The easy to pour spouts they feature and the 30 day shelf life of these wines once opened add additonal value. Give one a shot for your next party and see what you think.

Veramonte - 2009 Ritual Pinot Noir

The Veramonte 2009 Ritual Pinot Noir was produced from fruit sourced exclusively in the Casablanca Valley of Chile. This offering is 100% Pinot Noir. After hand harvesting each batch of grapes went through double sorting. Fermentation was aided by wild yeasts. Barrel aging took place over a period of 12 months in all French oak; 40% of the barrels were new. This wine has a suggested retail price of $19.99. When I first tasted the Ritual Pinot Noir with the previous vintage I was pretty knocked out with the quality and varietal character that wine offered for under $20. Since that time I’ve gone back to that release on a number of occasions and each time I’ve found the quality and value to be consistent. So when the time to taste the 2009 arrived I was both excited and a bit hesitant. My hesitation came from fear that it might not live up to what came before. Thankfully that fear was unfounded.

Aromas of fresh red fruit, strawberry and cherry in particular fill the nose of this 2009 Pinot Noir. A layer of herbs underscores this and provides a nice counterpoint. Red and black berry fruits are prominent through the palate which has good weight. Black and red cherry, raspberry, blueberry and wild strawberry are all in play here. A hint of jam emerges on the lengthy finish along with hints of toasty oak and copious spice notes. This is a full bodied Pinot Noir that will pair well with richly flavored foods.

This Pinot will drink well over next 3-4 years. For best results I suggest decanting it for about an hour. The folks at Veramonte continue to turn out well made, reasonably priced wines, keep their name on your radar for delicious value.

Masút Vineyards and Winery - 2009 Pinot Noir

There’s quite a bit of tasty, well made Pinot Noir emerging from Mendocino County. Many of the noteworthy offerings are from family owned, boutique wineries making small amounts of wine. Masút Vineyards and Winery, which was founded by third generation vintners Ben and Jacob Fetzer, fits that description. This wine is dedicated to their Dad who passed away in 2006. Today I’ll look at their inaugural release of Estate Pinot Noir. The Masút Vineyards and Winery 2009 Pinot Noir was produced from fruit sourced at Ben and Jake Fetzer’s Estate Vineyard in Mendocino California. Three clones of Pinot Noir (777, 115, and 113) were used. Their vineyard in the family tradition is certified organic. Barrel aging took place in French oak, 55% of the barrels were new. 1,700 six-pack cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $40.

Aromas of cherry and wild strawberry dominate the nose of this 2009 Pinot Noir. Hints of mushroom and vanilla play supporting aromatic roles. Black cherry fruit is prominent throughout the palate along with lighter flourishes of plum and black raspberry. Lots of spice notes appear as well with clove, nutmeg and cardamom the most prominent. Black tea, minerals and earth notes are all apparent in the finish which has excellent length, and depth of flavor. This is a Pinot Noir that will pair as beautifully with a wide of foods as it will drink on its own.

This introductory release from Masút is impressive and speaks well to the quality products we can expect from them on a go forward basis. If you’re a Pinot Noir lover, this is a release you should go out of your way to seek out.

Luigi Bosca - 2008 Pinot Noir Reserva

The Luigi Bosca 2008 Pinot Noir Reserva was produced from fruit sourced at the El Paraiso Vineyard in the Mendoza region of Argentina. The vines have 45 years of age on them and sit more than 2,500 feet above sea level. Fermentation took place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. Barrel aging followed over an eight month period in once used French oak. This offering is 100% Pinot Noir and it has a suggested retail price of $20.99. Wild strawberries, rose petals and mushroom aromas are on display in the nose of this 2008 South American Pinot Noir. Loads of cherry flavors show themselves on the palate along with raspberry and copious spice notes. The palate is deeply layered with gentle, complex flavors that emerge in wave after wave. Cranberry, rhubarb, pepper spice and little bits of earth are present in the finish which has good persistence. Fine acidity keeps this wine nicely balanced.

Pinot Noir from South America has been coming on strong over the last few years. This Argentine example from Luigi Bosca is a lovely showcase of how far they’ve come with this great varietal. If you shop around you’ll find this wine for less than $20 and it’s a really nice value. It’s loaded with varietal character, complexity and just sheer drinkability. If you love Pinot Noir, South American examples should be on your radar, this release from Luigi Bosca is a good place to

Davis Bynum - 2009 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

When it comes to Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley is one of a small handful of places within California that it truly thrives. More regions than should, grow it and a few others also allow it to properly prosper. Davis Bynum Winery has been making Pinot from Russian River Valley fruit for close to 40 years. A couple of years ago they became part of the Rodney Strong family of properties. Considering how consistent they’ve been, the Davis Bynum tradition is in capable and trustworthy hands. Today I’ll look at their most recent release of Pinot Noir. The Davis Bynum 2009 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir was produced from several select vineyards throughout the valley. This offering is 100% Pinot Noir. After fermentation barrel aging followed for 15 months in all French oak. 5,000 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $35.

Black cherry, leather and sandalwood aromas fill the appealing nose of this 2009 Pinot Noir. Cherry, mushrooms, spice and hints of barnyard lead the palate. The story of this wine is elegance laced with precise intensity. Black Cherry fruit is in command here with flashes of red cherry and hints of wild strawberry popping in from time to time. Earth, rhubarb, sour black cherry, pomegranate and a touch of toasty oak are all part of the lengthy finish that also shows off an impressive core of spices that reverberate persistently after the last sip is swallowed.

On the one hand this wine has been of consistent quality over the last few vintages. On the other, the 2009 is an even more impressive expression of excellent Russian River Pinot Noir than the last couple. The bottom line though is that in a world where Pinot prices are sometimes out of control, this selection is a terrific value.

Trapiche Broquel - 2009 Pinot Noir

South America has been coming on strong with Pinot Noir. It’s perhaps the most fickle of all red varieties. Where it’s grown and how it’s treated after that is often the source of great debate. When Pinot Noir is well made it can inspire great acclaim and adulation. Trapiche is an Argentine producer that has broad range of wines in its portfolio. Their offerings run the gamut of styles, disciplines, and price points. Today I’ll look at the current release Pinot Noir in their Broquel line. The Trapiche Broquel 2009 Pinot Noir was produced using fruit sourced in the Mendoza region of Argentina. Some (70%) of the fruit was de-stemmed and the balance (30%) was vinified with stems. The wine was aged on the lees in French oak for a period of nine months. This offering is 100% Pinot Noir and it has a suggested retail price of $15.

Dark cherry, leather and mushroom aromas fill the nose of this 2009 Pinot Noir. Hints of plum and wild strawberry are apparent on the palate. However these are secondary to the oodles of black cherry flavors that dominate. Earth, black tea, hints of cola and bits of vanilla, white pepper and clove cinnamon are present on the finish which has good persistence. This wine has yielding tannins and firm acidity.

For $15 (less if you shop around) this wine represents a nice value in Pinot Noir. It’s well made, presenting a flavor profile that is authentic to Pinot Noir. It’s quite tasty by itself but will pair with a wide range of foods.

Domaine Serene - 2008 Yamhill Cuvée Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir remains one of the trickiest varieties in the world. There are a host of reasons for this. It prospers in some areas and doesn’t do well at all in others. Sometimes a couple areas in question can be quite close to each other, relatively speaking. But aside from the regions and sub-regions where Pinot either thrives or not there are questions of intent. While there are folks passionate about just every grape in the world, Pinot Noir has a particularly dedicated legion of believers. The treatment of the grapes and the style it’s produced in garners as much praise or criticism as the location it’s from. For most of those passionate about Pinot that means things like restrained use of oak and wines that are 100% varietal to name but a couple. One of the regions in the world where Pinot Noir thrives and is produced in a variety of styles is Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Today I’ll look at a current release from Domaine Serene. The Domaine Serene 2008 Yamhill Cuvée Pinot Noir was produced using fruit sourced mostly from the winery’s estate vineyards in the Eola Hills and Dundee Hills. The fruit used is three distinct Pinot Noir Clones, Pommard (51%), Dijon (38%), and Wadenswil (11%). Barrel aging was accomplished over 12 months in French oak; 51% of the barrels were new. 7,500 cases of this wine were produced in the 2008 vintage and it has a suggested retail price of $42.

Aromas of red raspberry, wild strawberry and leather fill the nose of this 2008 Pinot Noir from Oregon. Throughout the palate black cherry, nutmeg and blueberry each play key roles. The middle of this wine is simply loaded with copious amounts of red and black fruit characteristics as well as equal amounts of spice. The lengthy finish shows off both black and white pepper as well as rhubarb, sour cherry, hints of cola and cedar. This wine has fairly firm tannins that yield with some aeration.

This 2008 Cuvée from Domain Serene is an excellent example of the world class Pinot Noir emerging from Oregon. If you like Pinot Noir pure and true to varietal, Oregon is certainly already on your go to list. I recommend making sure Domain Serene is one of the producers you look to. This wine is also a relative value in its price category. For best results, decant this wine for about 90 minutes.

Famiglia Bianchi - 2008 Pinot Noir

The Famiglia Bianchi wines from Argentina continue to offer solid (and often better) values at numerous tiers and price points. Their portfolio has a wide scope in terms of varietals, style and cost. This makes it relatively easy for almost anyone to find a wine in their line to enjoy. I for one am fond of their wines in general and today I’m looking forward to sampling their current release of Pinot Noir. The Famiglia Bianchi 2008 Pinot Noir was produced using fruit sourced in the San Rafael region of Mendoza. This wine is 100% Pinot Noir. After hand picking the wine was fermented and macerated with skins. Barrel aging was accomplished over six months in a combination of French and American oak.  This wine has a suggested retail price of $15.99.

Wild strawberry aromas dominate the nose along with an undercurrent of vanilla and a gentle wisp of crème fraiche. Black cherry, candied strawberry and a persistent vein of kirsch liqueur are the stars of the palate. Black pepper spice plays a role as well and leads to the finish which shows off black tea, continued wallops of cherry, emerging earth and wisps of espresso. This wine has soft, lush tannins and good acidity.

As has been my experience with the Bianchi wines in general this Pinot Noir is crafted with food in mind. It’ll excel with a broad range of roasted meats, cheeses and medium flavored foods. This 2008 Famiglia Bianchi Pinot Noir also continues the streak of great values from this dependable Argentinean producer.

Cupcake Vineyards - NV Brut Rosé

Over the last couple of years Cupcake Vineyards has emerged as an interesting source for wine. They offer an ever increasing, eclectic portfolio of releases sourced the world over that deliver solid (or better) quality at prices that most folks can afford on a regular basis. Today I’ll look at one of their Sparkling Wine efforts. The Cupcake Vineyards Brut Rosé was produced using 100% French Pinot Noir. After gentle pressing the juice is cold fermented, over a couple of weeks, in stainless steel. After the lots are assembled it undergoes secondary fermentation in bottle followed by aging on the lees. It’s then riddled and corked prior to release. The whole process spans approximately 2 years, 10,000 cases of this sparkling wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $15.99.

Things start of with a classic salmon colored hue, lovely and typical for Rosé Sparklers. Aromas of wild strawberry lead the nose underscored by touches of crème fraiche. This wine has a substantial palate that features red cherry, strawberry and an overall mélange of juicy red fruits including watermelon. Wisps of biscuit and ginger are part of the finish along with creamy scone. The finish is noteworthy in its range for both length and structure.

What I love most about this Non Vintage Brut is how versatile it is. It’s delicious sipped by itself but will also pair well with a host of foods both sophisticated and casual. I had this wine alongside a grilled cheese sandwich of Muenster cheese on 12 grain bread; it was a terrific match. The modest price tag makes it a wine you can open any day of the week, the quality makes it something you’ll be happy to serve to guests.

Matetic Vineyards - 2009 Corralillo Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is amongst the varieties that I’m pickiest about in terms of style. To start with I’m a pretty firm believer that nothing else really belongs blended in with Pinot Noir. Of course it should also be planted in an appropriate spot and be treated right every step of the way. There’s a purity and a beauty that can be achieved with this grape when it’s appropriately handled that is distinct and impressive. Of late I’ve run across more and more examples from South America that hit my sweet spot for well made Pinot that stays true to varietal character. Today I’ll look at one from Chilean producer Matetic Vineyards. They have been farming with organic practices and are also taking the appropriate steps to become Biodynamic. To achieve this they’ve worked with noted expert in the field Alan York. His reputation as a Guru of Biodynamic Farming practices is amongst the very best. The Matetic Vineyards 2009 Corralillo Pinot Noir was produced using fruit from two estate hillside vineyards located in their home region of San Antonio Valley Chile. This offering is 100% Pinot Noir. After fermentation with select yeasts the wine was aged in French oak. 900 cases of this vintage were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $27.99.

The hue of this wine is a bit darker than the average Pinot Noir, it approximates deep red cherry in color. Wisps of tobacco and mushroom emerge from the nose of this 2008 Pinot Noir. The cherry theme continues on the palate. Black Cherry leads the way and hints of red cherry are interspersed in there as well. Touches of juicy strawberry also play a role. Black tea notes lead the finish along with cranberry, rhubarb and a spice parade led by pepper and cardamom.

This is a terrific example of Pinot Noir as well a further proof that exciting things are happening with this grape in Chile. The long, lingering finish and the wines overall balance and elegance are its most noteworthy characteristics. This wine is impressive enough to serve at a special meal, but inexpensive enough to indulge in regularly.

Visiting Domaine Carneros in Napa

Every time I travel to California Wine Country I undergo a lot of internal tussling. Honestly long before I even book a flight I’m thinking about where I want to go to taste wine. There are of course hundreds of options. But making the choice even tougher is the lure of old favorites, sitting on my shoulder and whispering in my ear like a comfortable, well known angel.  There’s something to be said for revisiting something you love, particularly the attraction of new vintages. On the other shoulder sits the unknown. This angel doesn’t look familiar but he whispers to me about unusual delights that I have yet to experience. In the end I try to strike a balance between the two with the unknown angel getting a little more of my attention. Each trip I also attempt to come up with some places I have been meaning to visit but somehow have managed to elude me. I visited one such spot a couple of days ago, Domaine Carneros. I’ve driven past Domaine Carneros more often than I could possibly count, and I’ve had some of their wine before. But for one reason or another I was always passing by on my way somewhere with a clock ticking. I had a 3 PM appointment for a tour and tasting and I arrived in their entryway just before that and was warmly greeted. Moments later a gentleman by the name of Jean Claude came over and introduced himself. He was our guide for the tour, and so much more. I’ve been on many wine tours and it was immediately obvious that this was going to be a noteworthy one. Jean Claude has a passion for his subject, an ability to read his audience that many don’t posses, and enough personal warmth to fill a room. The tour I was on had a total of 10 people on it; Jean Claude managed to connect on some level with every one of them. Along the way he showed us around the facility and told us about the history of Domaine Carneros as well as the Carneros appellation itself. We tasted a quartet of Sparkling Wines on our journey, from their most widely available release, to wines that are a bit harder to come by on store shelves. In short a well planned cross section of their Sparkling Wines. In an engaging and easy to follow manner that never spoke down to anyone Jean Claude went through the production of Sparkling Wine. As we did this we made our way through the facility and saw different parts of it. It was an A to Z on Sparkling Wine that provided good basic knowledge for a newer wine lover but also a level of detail that would hold the attention of a more veteran taster.

When we were finished with the Sparkling wines we sat down in a lovely bar area and Jean Claude guided us through a trio of Pinot Noirs from the Portfolio. He spoke about these as well and we enjoyed them alongside a light snack of nuts.

At the end of the tour I was lucky enough to get a chance to spend time with still Winemaker TJ Evans. He poured me an additional sparkling wine I had yet to taste and then we headed to the barrel room.  Once there TJ showed me some lots of wine with varying age on them. Some were specific clones and others a blend of more than one. I was able to get a real window into his winemaking philosophy and where the Pinot Noir Program at Domaine Carneros is headed. In his time there he’s added a few releases to the line and it looks like he’ll continue to tinker and add things when he feels the fruit justifies it.  After going through some barrels TJ showed me some older wines. While he didn’t make the 2000 and 2001 Pinot Noir he poured for me tasting them was an eye opener as he’s working with the same vines. It’s clear that the fruit those vines produces can make Pinot Noir which has the ability to age.

Taking a tour at Domaine Carneros costs $25 and lasts approximately 90 minutes. In that time you’ll learn quite a bit about the Estate, their wines, Sparkling Wine and Pinot Noir in general and Carneros. We tasted seven wines in that period and they were well spaced out with plenty of time to enjoy and contemplate them. Domaine Carneros is a beautiful property and they make terrific wines, both still and sparkling. If you’re going to be in the Napa area, don’t wait as long as I did, get to Domaine Carneros, it’s well worth your time, effort and money. I should also note that if you don’t have time for a tour there are also numerous tasting options available as well. Check their website for details. My initial instinct was right on, this was a noteworthy tour and visit.

William Cole - 2009 Columbine Reserve Pinot Noir

Over the last few years I’ve taken note of some impressive Pinot Noirs from Chile. It’s an understatement to say that I'm excited about that turn of events. Pinot is one of my favorite varieties when it’s great, trouble is it’s not exceptional often enough. Too often, particularly in California, it’s planted in the wrong spot or treated with a heavy hand. A dollop of Pinot Noir in another variety is fine with me, anything else blended into a varietal Pinot Noir, not so much. Today I’ll look at a Chilean Pinot Noir that hit the spot for me. William Cole Vineyards is based in the Casablanca Valley, one of Chile’s cooler regions. They have over 129 Hectares under vine. The William Cole 2009 Columbine Reserve Pinot Noir was aged for six months in small oak casks. This offering has a suggested retail price of $15.

Wild strawberry, raspberry, mushroom a hint of forest floor and herb flourishes are all present in the heady, fresh, and inviting nose of this 2009 Pinot Noir. Black cherry and zingy red berry flavors make themselves known throughout the palate along with hints of black pepper. Rhubarb, sour red fruits and a wisp of candied cherry are all part of the finish along with star anise and a touch of chicory. This wine has excellent acidity. I found this Pinot Noir very appealing on its own and it also pair perfectly with a bowl of pasta dressed in a simple tomato sauce.

For $15 This Pinot Noir from William Cole represent a tremendous value. It’s very accessible as well as elegant. It shows off lots of genuine Pinot character and has an above average finish. If you're looking for a case buy of Pinot Noir that you can drink everyday without breaking the budget, this is it. Here’s hoping lots more Pinot Noir of this caliber and value reach our shores from Chile.

Rapitala - 2007 "Nuar" Nero d'Avola / Pinot Noir

I’ve always found it fascinating to taste wines of any price point. But I have a particular curiosity for wines in the under $20 range. While it’s certainly quite possible to find a good or great value in any price range, under $20 is different. Many more folks are interested in those types of values. So I’m constantly on the lookout for those wines, both for myself as good everyday values and so that I can recommend them to my friends and of course my readers. Today I’m going to look at an Italian blend that hit the mark for me. The Tenuta Rapitala 2007 Nuar is a blend of Nero d’Avola (70%) and Pinot Noir (30%). Tenuta Rapitala has an estate of 70 acres in Sicily; of these they have 28 under vine. They are somewhat hilly acres which vary from 100-300 meters above sea level. The Nero d’Avola was fermented in stainless steel while the Pinot Noir spent nine months in small French oak casks. It was blended just before bottling and was then given some additional months to age in bottle. This offering has a suggested retail price of $15.99.

Red rose and hints of violet are joined by a cornucopia of red fruit aromas on the lovely, even keeled nose of this 2007 Sicilian blend. Both dried and fresh red fruit flavors are prominent throughout the palate; cranberry, cherry, wild strawberry and raspberry are all present. Subtle cocoa, lots of black pepper, sour cherry and wisps of earth are all part of the finish on this wine. Soft tannins and firm acidity mark the easygoing charm of this selection.

Without question this is a food lovers wine. Whether you pair it with hard flavorful cheeses, a dish of pasta in red sauce or a plate of salami this wine will perform well. For $15.99 (closer to $13 if you shop around) this is a tasty wine that you can pull out any day of the week without breaking the budget.