Gabe's View

Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

Michael David – 2007 6th Sense Syrah

Posted by Gabe on February 8, 2010

For quite a number of years I’ve been fond of the Michael David Wines. When I see their labels or think of their offerings I’m reminded of wines that tend to be big, bold and widely available. The price points for the wines also tend to be reasonable. Today I’m going to look at their current release of Syrah.

The Michael David 2007 6th Sense Syrah was produced using Lodi fruit. In addition to Syrah, some Petite Sirah is also blended in. Barrel aging was accomplished over 20 months in French oak. The suggested retail price for this selection is $16.

The 2007 vintage of 6th Sense Syrah opens with Black Mission Fig aromas, along with hints of leather, and wisps of vanilla. The palate is loaded with plum, blueberry, and a host of other dark, fleshy fruit notes. Chocolate, espresso, and burnt sugar characteristics mark the smooth, lingering finish of this Syrah. This wine has soft tannins and sufficient acidity.

This wine has been consistent from vintage to vintage. If anything I found the 2007 to be ever so slightly more restrained than recent vintages. It has better balance and a bit more structure to boot. Overall though, if you have liked this in the past you’re more than likely going to enjoy it now. If you’ve never had 6th Sense Syrah, it’s modest price point and wide availability make it a safe bet to reach for the next time you’re hosting or attending an event with wine lovers of all stripes. This wine is both a good value and an excellent example of Lodi fruit.

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Posted in Syrah/Shiraz, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Bodega Septima – 2007 Gran Reserva

Posted by Gabe on February 7, 2010

Single varietal wines are probably the ones most American consumers have historically identified with and looked for. There now seems to be a growing segment in the US that realizes the power of blended wines. As we mature as a wine consuming culture in the US there are more and more folks that are comfortable straying outside of their safe zone and experimenting. Blended wines, whether classic Bordeaux style blends or otherwise can offer many positives. Of course at their best the goal is to achieve the best possible wine using the highest quality fruit a producer has available. In addition to that sometimes its as simple as some Merlot being blended in to a Cabernet for additional complexity. In any case while the single varietal expressions have their place too, blended wines are their own unique discipline. Today I’ll look at one from  Bodega Septima.

The Bodega Septima 2007 Gran Reserva was produced using fruit sourced in several distinct parts of Mendoza. This wine is a blend of Malbec (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), and Tannat (10%). Each varietal was barrel aged separately in a combination of French and American oak. After 12 months in barrel the final blend was assembled prior to this offering being bottled. The suggested retail price for this wine is $25.

When this 2007 blend is poured, the deep purple hue is striking. Blackberry, blueberry and vanilla aromas waft enticingly from the nose of this wine. The palate is loaded with intense layers of fruit flavor. These are joined by spice and chocolate notes that coat the tongue and back of the throat with flavor and good intensity. Espresso, earth and mineral reference points make up the lengthy finish. This wine has firm tannins and good acid structure. In it’s powerful youth this wine will work best paired with hearty, full flavored dishes that can match its intensity.

What I like best about this wine is the balance on display between the Malbec and the Cabernet Sauvignon. The lusty fruit of the Malbec shines through, along with the depth of flavor and structure that the Cabernet provides. The softer and lighter bodied Tannat acts as a bridge, bringing it all together. While this wine is delicious now, particularly after a solid decanting, it will undoubtedly improve for the next 5-6 years and drink well for several after that. A nice wine and a very good value.

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Bodega Septima – 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon

Posted by Gabe on February 2, 2010

When it comes to South American wine Cabernet Sauvignon was the first varietal I started drinking. It was my realization back then that there was great value in the Cab category that started me on tasting wines from both Chile and Argentina. Perhaps because it was the first thing from there I started that I still get excited when I find a solid Cabernet Sauvignon value from South America. Over the last few months I’ve had the chance to taste a number of wines from Bodega Septima. During the next couple of days I’m going to report on a few recent examples I’ve really liked. Today I’m going to look at their current release of Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Bodega Septima 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon was made using fruit sourced in Luján de Cuyo, south of Mendoza. This selection was producing 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel aging was accomplished over six months in American oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is $11.99.

Dark berry, thyme, toast and vanilla bean aromas fill the nose of this 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. Sweet berry fruit notes lead the palate. Pie crust flavors emerge around the mid-palate making Blackberry pie the predominate reference point. Black pepper and hints of smoke lead the finish followed by earth and chicory. This wine has soft tannins and solid acidity. The Bodega Septima is an excellent choice to pair with burgers or pasta in red sauce.

This 2007 Cabernet from Bodega Septima hits the marks I look for in this category. For $12 or less you get a wine that has solid varietal character as well as sufficient complexity. It’s meant for short term drinking but should hold its charms for the next couple of years. This is a good value.

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Haber Family Vineyards – 2006 Diamond Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon

Posted by Gabe on January 27, 2010

There are winemakers out there who work on numerous projects throughout the year on a consulting basis. Some like Napa Valley’s Bob Pepi consult in several countries as well as work on their own projects. Another California based one who hit my radar over the last few years is Tim Milos. Various wines he was involved with impressed me, but it was Tim’s work with Rubissow that really knocked my socks off. So when I became aware of Haber Family Vineyards, his involvement was one of the reasons I was interested in checking out their wine. They’re a mountain Winery like Rubissow and it takes a particular talent in my opinion to get the best out of mountain fruit. New wineries and small family owned producers are of particular interest to me as well and Haber Family Vineyards, which was started in 2004, fits both bills. While their winery sits on Howell Mountain they also produce a wine from Diamond Mountain. Today I’ll look at that wine.

The Haber Family Vineyards 2006 Diamond Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon is their inaugural release. This offering is composed entirely of Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel aging was accomplished over a period of 20 months in French oak; 85% of the barrels were new. A mere 380 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $80.

This 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon has a beautiful dark hue that presents strikingly when poured. Deep, dark, brooding, berry notes lead the nose. Subtle eucalyptus, cedar and vanilla aromas also play a role. The palate is generously flavored and loaded with layer after layer of well proportioned and even keeled, but relentless and intense fruit flavors. Plum, cherry and blackberry are the most prominent. A host of spice notes are present as well.  These flavors give way to chocolate covered blackberry and an avalanche of earth that form the core of this wines tremendous finish. This Cabernet has good structure and firm tannins; excellent acidity provides the framework.

If you’re going to drink this wine over the next couple of years, decanting it is highly recommended to get the most out of it. If you have the patience to lay it down, this Mountain Cab will evolve beautifully over the next decade or so. I went back to this Cabernet after it had been open for 24 hours and again when it had been open for 48 hours. In both cases the wine had continued to evolve positively. It might have even been at its best after 48 hours. In any case it was consistently impressive

The lengthy finish and depth of flavor in the palate are both noteworthy. When you take into account that this wine is the first release it’s exciting to consider what Haber Family Vineyards will unleash going forward. It’s also clear that Tim Milos is amongst the folks who have the ability to get at the core of mountain fruit and let it show off its purity and power. This is an excellent wine, well worth its price tag.  

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Posted in Cabernet Sauvignon, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Sandeman – 20 Year Tawny Port

Posted by Gabe on January 25, 2010

Tawny Port is amongst the categories of dessert wines that I reach for most often. When they’re done right, the combination of flavor and quality in an often very reasonable price point is hard to resist. Throw in the general availability of a great number of standard bearer Tawny Ports and it’s easy to see why a lot of folks look towards them for their after dinner wine needs. All Tawny Ports aren’t created equally of course so I find sampling them a fascinating exercise. Today I’m going to look at an example from long time Port House Sandeman.

The Sandeman 20 Year of Tawny Port was aged in wooden casks. As the name indicates the average age of the wines blended is at least 20 years. The suggested retail price for this Port is $51.99

Fruitcake spice and stone fruit aromas lead the nose of this 20 Year Tawny Port. Apricot and yellow cling peach flavors are apparent on the palate along with honey and various nut characteristics. The finish of this wine is long and lingering with tea notes leading the charge; they’re joined by vanilla and continuing spice. This Sandeman Port is delicious on its own and many may consider this to be dessert in and of itself. I sampled it that way and personally I most often drink Tawny Port on its own. However I tasted it with sweet cranberry-walnut bread topped with a triple crème cheese and found that to be an outstanding match as well.

Two things stood out to me most about this Port. First is the mid-palate of the wine which is simultaneously rich and layered with flavors but yet gentle and even keeled. The finish is also impressive in length. Just when you think it’s going to end, the flavors linger a bit longer. This Sandeman Tawny Port is an excellent entry in the 20 Year category. In its class it offers excellent quality and solid value.

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Simonsig Family Vineyards – 2005 Pinitage

Posted by Gabe on January 23, 2010

Every wine region has its signature grape varietal, some like South Africa have a couple. For white wine its Chenin Blanc and when it comes to reds it’s Pinotage. The varietal was created about 85 years ago when Cinsault and Pinot Noir were crossed. And while there are other reds that do well in South Africa, Pinotage is the varietal that sets them apart from the pack. Today I’ll look at one from Simonsig Family Vineyards.

The Simonsig 2005 Pinotage was made from fruit sourced in the Stellenbosch region of South Africa. This offering is 100% Pinotage. Approximately 5,000 cases of this selection are produced each vintage. The suggested retail price for this wine is $14.99.

An extroverted nose, loaded with cherries, mulled spices and cedar leads this 2005 Pinotage. Taking the first sip, fleshy fruit flavors emerge. Both black and blue flavors star with blueberry, blackberry and cherry leading the way. Kirsch liqueur flavors emerge mid-palate and continue through to the finish which features flourishes of burnt sugar and a host of continuing spice notes such as black pepper, cinnamon and cloves. These give way to a savory component that’s joined by a nice closing wallop of sour berry. This wine has good structure and solid acidity.

Both Pinot Noir and Cinsault are generally speaking excellent food wines when they’re made well. It’s no surprise then that a well made and balanced Pinotage would also be a terrific food wine. This Pinotage is both of those things. It’ll pair well with many foods but a hearty and spicy beef based chili would be an inspired pairing. This wine is delicious now but don’t hesitate to hold onto it for several years. The tannins will soften a bit and make this an even more appealing selection. For under $15 this is a very solid value packed with flavor.

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2010 New York Wine Expo Is Around The Corner

Posted by Gabe on January 19, 2010

The 3rd annual NY Wine Expo is coming next month. I’ve attended the first two and found it to be a large scale wine event worth attending for wine lovers. Read my review of the 2009 edition here, and 2008 here. Readers of this site can save $10 on either Friday or Saturday tickets by using the code: GABESVIEW. Specific event details follow:

 

The 3rd Annual New York Wine Expo is February 26 through 28 at the Jacob Javits Center. In all, the Grand Tasting offers attendees a chance to sample more than 600 wines from over 170 winemakers from around the globe. Seminar presenters include Gloria Maroti Frazee, who oversees Wine Spectator School, and Leslie Sbrocco an award-winning author, and Founder of “Thirsty Girl” a brand new multi-media company focused on wine, food and travel.

New York Wine Expo Hours
Friday, February 26, 6:00 – 10:00 PM; $75, prior to Feb. 19
Saturday, February 27, 2:00 – 6:00 PM   $85, prior to Feb. 19
(Sunday is for trade professionals only)
 
Go to
www.NewYorkWineExpo.com for tickets and additional information or call 800-544-1660.

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Urraca – 2007 Familia Langley Reserva

Posted by Gabe on January 18, 2010

It was just about a year ago that I first tasted the offerings from Argentine producer Urraca Wines. Since then I’ve gone back to them several times and been impressed each time with their overall portfolio. Their wines hit a different segment of the Argentine wine imports than most. Within the vast number of wines from Argentina, the majority on US shelves are value based. Some of those values are outstanding and provide quality and some are generic. What Urraca does from the get go is to aim higher. They start at a premium level and then also make super-premium offerings. So while the least expensive wine you’re going to find from them is in the mid to high teens, there is value to be had. Today I’m going to look at the current release of their flagship wine. This wine is certainly within the super-premium category. The question is does it still deliver value, or even a bargain, in its price point.

The Urraca 2007 Familia Langley Reserva is made using fruit from the Mendoza region of Argentina. The proprietary blend is composed of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Malbec (30%), and Merlot (30%). Barrel aging was accomplished over 18 months in a combination of French and American oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is approximately $70.

A potpourri of dark berry aromas lead the exuberant nose of this 2007 blend. Blackberry and cherry (both red and black) intermingle along with lots of white pepper and hints of nutmeg throughout the palate of this selection. This wine has serious length. The impressive finish is marked my minerals, earth, black pepper and a hints of charcoal. This wine has firm tannins that soften in the glass. Excellent acidity provides the framework and keeps everything in check.

There are three things which I find equally impressive about this wine. First and quite importantly is its consistency. I was blown away by the 2005 version of this wine and was quite curious to see how the 2007 edition would stack up. Nothing to worry about there, the 2007 is every bit as impressive. The second thing that struck me is the tremendous level of even-keeled intensity that this wine displays from the first sip through the long finish. There are a lot of wines that hit you up front with big fruit and then the flavor drops as if it fell from a cliff. While this wine has little peaks and valleys, it manages to maintain a notable level of complex, layered and concentrated flavors throughout. The third thing that impresses me is the finish on the Familia Langley, which is noteworthy in length.

If you’re going to drink this wine in the short term, decanting for an hour or two is strongly recommended. However if you’re patient and can lay it down for a few years, you will be rewarded by a wine that will show plenty of positive evolution. Yes this wine is $70, and yes for that money it’s still, very much, an excellent value. It compares favorably to many blends from a number of regions of the world that hit the triple digit price point.

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Posted in Blends, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Wine | Leave a Comment »

Cinnabar Winery – 2007 Paso Robles Merlot

Posted by Gabe on January 14, 2010

Merlot is easily one of the most maligned varietals of the last decade. The film Sideways did little to help its cause. But in my opinion what hurt Merlot’s reputation more was the sea of insipid examples out there. For every excellent Merlot there’s one that’s sweet, flabby and worst of all innocuous. There’s nothing more discouraging than drinking a wine and being unable to distinguish what varietal it is. Thankfully though, along with the solid examples that have always been out there, the tide seems to have shifted a bit. More and more of the Merlot’s I’ve tasted, in a wide array of price categories, from all over the world, actually taste like what they are. Today I’ll look at an example from Cinnabar Winery.

The Cinnabar Winery 2007 Merlot I made from fruit sourced in two sections of Paso Robles. 95% of the wine is Merlot with 5% Petit Verdot blended in as well. Barrel aging was accomplished over 16 months in a combination of American and Hungarian oak; 15% were new. The suggested retail price for this wine is $21.

Dark fruit aromas with an undercurrent of jam fill the inviting nose of this Paso Robles Merlot. Blackberry pie, cherry and plum pudding spice notes are the most prominent parts of the full flavored palate. Chocolate notes as well as hints of graham cracker emerge on the finish which has yielding tannins, good length and a velvety mouth feel. Solid acidity keeps everything in check.

I like this Merlot a lot for a couple of reasons. Most importantly it’s true to the varietal. Secondly it’s a fine example of Paso Robles wine. The combination of fruit from two distinct areas in Paso helps keeps things balanced and provides for a style that shows both the big fruit that Paso is known for as well as the proportion that can be achieved. A nice value.

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A Vertical Tasting of Swanson Vineyards Salon Chardonnay, Vintages 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008

Posted by Gabe on January 11, 2010

Once upon a time I was ready to give up on New World Chardonnay. More than anything though it was really California Chardonnay I’d grown weary of. So many of the wines I tasted were overburdened with oak to the point of blunting the fruit. The litany of jokes made in tasting rooms and elsewhere about these wines could easily fill a book. I’m not sure anyone is printing joke books these days. If they were though there’s lots of material. It got to the point where I found it tiresome to even try new Chardonnays. Many of them, were high scored, and well regarded, yet there was a seeming avalanche of sawdust in my mouth. So I drank mostly Chablis, when I had the chance, and when I felt adventurous I’d try one from California.

Then one incredibly fateful day I made my first visit to Swanson Vineyards Salon in Napa Valley. While I liked the first wine they poured Rosato, I was dubious when then Salonnier Shawn Larue said the next wine was Chardonnay. I must have made a face because Shawn assured me that what I was about to taste was not a typical over oaked wine that was in fashion for many years. I thanked him for mentioning it but inside I thought “we’ll see about that.” From the first sip the Swanson Chardonnay was nothing short of a revelation. The fruit starred gloriously and there was complexity to spare. “That’s amazing,” were the first words I recall uttering after the very first sips I ever took of Swanson Chardonnay. More than anything it reminded me of a fine Chablis. I  Joined their wine club soon after in large part so I could have guaranteed access to the Chardonnay. It’s only made in small quantities and if there’s any left after the wine club gets their allotment you can get some through the Salon. I wasn’t taking that chance. I’ve come to love the Swanson portfolio of wines in general. The Chardonnay though, for my money, there isn’t a finer one in Napa Valley.

I was recently going through my cellar and realized I had four vintages of the Chardonnay on hand. It was obvious that the only thing to do was invite some friends over for a vertical tasting. What follows are some of my impressions about these wines and how they’re currently tasting.

The Swanson Chardonnay is available through the Salon in Rutherford. The suggested retail price for the current vintage (2008) is $36.

Swanson Vineyards 2005 Salon Chardonnay – This wine has changed remarkably in the time since it was released. Much of the fruit has dropped off at this point. The spice and mineral elements which were always present have pushed to the fore front. This now lean, mineral laden wine turned out to be the favorite of most during the vertical tasting. A nice showcase for the potential longevity of well made, balanced, white wines.

Swanson Vineyards 2006 Salon Chardonnay – This wine is definitely transitioning at this time. The spice component is present as are hints of minerals. However they’re not as prominent as on the 2005. There is more fruit present right now. I’ll be curious to see how it develops further over the next year and if it gets to the second life the 2005 is currently enjoying.

Swanson Vineyards 2007 Salon Chardonnay – Of the four vintages this is probably the one drinking at closest to its peak efficacy right now. It’s all about personal taste of course but the 2007 still now has all the glorious fruit this Chardonnay features in its youth. There’s plenty of complexity as well with spice, mineral notes and the great length this wine traditionally features. An excellent vintage of a very consistent wine in its peak drinking window.

Swanson Vineyards 2008 Salon Chardonnay – This is the current vintage of this wine, released this past August. Not surprisingly this vintage currently has the biggest fruit of the bunch. Gentle hints of butter are present along with the classic spice elements. Mineral notes are just starting to eek out of this wine and I suspect they’ll become much more prominent over time. While it’s delicious now, history tells me that to my taste I’m going to like this wine even more in about 5-6 months.

Vertical tastings can be fascinating and instructive. This one was no different. While everyone had their favorites, for a variety of reasons, there was some consensus. Regardless of how much the older vintages have evolved, the house style, we agreed was evident throughout. While age and of course vintage variation play a strong role, the consistent quality of the Swanson Salon Chardonnay from year to year was on display.

So the moral of the story here is two-fold. First of all if you like a varietal, don’t give up on it if you run across some examples you don’t like. You may eventually find one you love. The tide may also shift as it has with California Chardonnay. Of course the oak laden butter bombs are still out there. Thankfully though there are less then of them than before. The other part of the story? If you like excellent Chardonnay, that has fruit, complexity, and a good bit of longevity, do what you have to and get your hands on a bottle of Swanson Salon Chardonnay.

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