Posted by Gabe on July 9, 2009
In certain areas of France and South Africa Chenin Blanc is widely planted and pretty highly regarded. And while it’s planted in many 
regions throughout the world it doesn’t get nearly as much acclaim anywhere else. In the US Dry Creek Vineyard has been making an excellent one for years that they do quite well with. There are certainly other producers in California, but the noteworthy examples are few and far between. Today I’m looking at one from Lucas & Lewellen.
The 2008 Chenin Blanc from Lucas & Lewellen is produced from fruit sourced at the Los Alamos Vineyard; part of the Santa Barbara AVA. This offering is 100% varietal. This wine was cold fermented. 376 cases were produced and the suggested retail price for this offering is $20.
This Chenin Blanc has an abundance of floral notes in the nose along with orange blossom and hints of spice. Lychee fruit, pineapple and mango are all part of the bright, fruity palate along with sweet pear nectar and touches of honey. Gentle but lingering spice makes up the finish. This wine has good acidity and is well balanced.
What I like about this wine is the wealth of appealing ripe fruit flavors. This Chenin Blanc has touches and hints of sweetness but is far from a truly sweet wine. Those hints however add a lot to the appeal of this selection and drive the desire to keep going back to the glass for another sip. This offering is delicious on its own but has the complexity to stand up to a variety of foods. Chicken based, spicy, Indian dishes would be a particularly good match. A lovely wine, made for summer.
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Posted by Gabe on July 7, 2009
With summer here a couple of things come to mind, Yankee Baseball and drinking lots of Rosé. The two happen to go well together. There are several Rosés which have become standards for me year after year. The Rosato from Swanson Vineyards is one of these. However every summer I keep an eye out for selections I haven’t tried. Today I’ll look at the one from Fat bastard.
The Fat bastard 2008 Rosé is made from fruit sourced in Languedoc, This offering is an even split of Grenache and Shiraz. The wine most often sells for just under $10.
This 2008 Rosé has a lovely pink hue, perhaps a bit darker than the average French offering in the category. The nose offers an enticing mix of strawberries, cherries, white pepper and a hint of sugar. Watermelon is the most dominant component through the palate. While this wine isn’t really sweet it reminded me of Jolly Ranchers. Raspberries and dark cherries join the watermelon flavors in supporting roles. The finish is crisp and refreshing, beckoning you back for another sip. This Rosé has excellent acidity and will pair well with the casual foods associated with summer. I paired it with Hot Dogs slathered in onions and a side of Pasta Salad; an excellent and laid back summer match.
The refreshing and fruity nature of this Rosé is what stands out most. It’s noteworthy to add that while I often drink Rosés ice cold this one was better a couple of degrees warmer. That still chilled, but slightly warmer temperature allowed several additional layers of flavor to emerge.
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Posted by Gabe on July 5, 2009
Pinot Grigio is an often frustrating varietal. It wants to be loved and there are a lot of wine drinkers who do in fact drink it in spades. The 
trouble is that a lot of the Pinot Grigio that’s widely available on US shelves is, to be kind, uninspiring. Speaking for myself I know that I’m always compelled to try Pinot Grigios that cross my path; the search for something great, always on my mind. A couple of months ago I looked at some wines from Graffigna; two Malbecs and two Cabernet Sauvignons, all of them were pretty tasty. So when the chance to taste their current release Pinot Grigio came up I was intrigued.
The 2008 Graffigna Pinot Grigio is 100% varietal. All of the fruit for this selection was handpicked. The grapes were sourced in the Tulum Valley, located in San Juan Argentina. The vineyards are close to 2,000 feet above sea level. This wine was fermented in stainless steel. The suggested retail price for this Pinot Grigio is $13.
Peaches, melon and a touch of hibiscus are prominent in the nose of this South American take on Pinot Grigio. Pineapple, ripe, sweet white peach and apricot star in the appealing palate. Those sweet and inviting fruit notes continue through the finish which also has some light hints of vanilla. I found this wine paired well with a simple snack of Kalamata olives, sharp cheddar and flatbread. That said I think this selection also drinks quite nicely on its own and would be a tremendous welcome wine for a dinner party.
The Pinot Grigio from Graffigna is a very tasty effort. This is an excellent selection for summer. It’s light and refreshing with sufficient Pinot Grigio character to keep things interesting. For a $13 price-point, less if you shop around, this selection won’t break your budget either.
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Posted by Gabe on July 4, 2009
It’s been fascinating tasting wines in the Cameron Hughes Lot Series from time to time. One of the things that stands out to me about them is that they source fruit from numerous regions. Often a Négociant sources primarily (or wholly) from one region. By using the world as their source material Cameron Hughes Wine is able to provide a truly diverse array of offerings. Today I’ll look at one of their California releases.
The 2006 Cameron Hughes Lot 100 Stag’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon has fruit from Coombsville (9%) and Mount Veeder (3%). In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon this offering has 3% Petit Verdot blended in. 4,000 cases of this cuvee were produced and the suggested retail price is $20.
This Cabernet is a touch young right now. If you’re going to drink it in the next year or so don’t be shy about decanting it. An hour would be great, two hours even better. Once it’s had that chance to get some air the nose of this wine is quite expressive. Violets, plums, leather and blackberry are all present and prominent. These characteristics continue through the palate where they are joined by an avalanche of cherries as well as subtler cardamon and cinnamon. layer after layer of flavor emerges in the palate which is full flavored and persistent however quite well balanced. Mineral notes, tobacco, black tea and continued spice make up a lengthy and impressive finish. This Cabernet has firm but yielding tannins and good overall structure. While it will pair well will an array of foods, this is the style of Cabernet I like to drink on its own over a long afternoon or evening as I contemplate its many changes.
What stands out most about this wine is that it continues the Cameron Hughes tradition of delivering much more value than the sticker price would indicate. I don’t know who they sourced the fruit from, but I suspect that if that name were on the label this would be at least a $35 bottle. If you can wait, I’d lay this down for 3-4 years. That time will really serve this beautiful Cabernet well.
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Posted by Gabe on June 28, 2009
Some wines are so ubiquitous that it strikes me as interesting to check in with them from time to time. My purpose in doing this is two-fold. On 
the one hand I’m just curious to see how a wine is tasting from vintage to vintage. And on the other I’m always interested to taste something that has mass popularity; looking at that as a bit of a barometer of the general tastes of the average consumer. While not particularly scientific, it does fascinate me. Blackstome Merlot is such a case. For quite a number of years now this wine has been incredibly popular on store shelves, and in restaurants. I know that for many years this wine was the most popular Merlot in restaurants, it may still be the case but I’m not sure.
The 2006 Blackstone Winery Merlot carries a California designation. Fruit was sourced in a number of counties, Monterey at 58% was the most represented. The fruit is a blend of Merlot (85%), Syrah (9%), Cabernet Franc (2%), Cabernet Sauvignon (2%), Malbec (1%), and Petite Verdot (1%). French and American oak barrels were used to age 30% of the wine. While the suggested retail price is $12, this wine is widely available for between $8 and $10.
Ripe berry with a little lilt of jam fills the nose of this Merlot along with subtle violet and vanilla notes. Throughout the palate dark fruit notes such as blackberry, black cherry and plum are prominent. The medium length finish brings out white pepper spice and a touch of sour cherry. Overall this wine is approachable with a soft mouth-feel and gentle tannins. A grilled burger is the classic match for this wine.
The bottom line for me with the Blackstone Merlot is that it’s widely available and very reasonably priced. I find it to be a step up from the Yellowtails of the world in terms of varietal correctness and overall drinking pleasure. The fruit is perhaps a bit brighter than what I find in my favorite Merlots. But those aren’t available for $8 and aren’t necessarily made to satisfy a large gathering. For me that’s the appeal of the Blackstone Merlot. if you have a BBQ or party a lot of people who will drink a glass of wine but don’t necessarily spend countless hours obsessing over it are going to enjoy it. And the ones that do obsess over it, they’ll be glad it does in fact taste like Merlot.
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Posted by Gabe on June 24, 2009
Over the last several years the prominence of Malbec has grown in the United States. South American wines in general get more shelf space than they used to; Malbec is one of the leading growth categories within that. I for one am pretty happy about it. South America has long been a place to look towards for value. The increase in selection also means we’re getting more wines in every price range and that makes for more interesting choices. Today I’ll look at a value priced Malbec.
The 2008 High Note Elevated Malbec was produced by Vista del Sur Winery. Fruit was sourced in Argentina’s Uco Valley, which is part of Mendoza. Grapes for this selection were picked from five vineyards; they ranged in elevation fron 3,200 to 5,000 feet above sea level. In addition to Malbec (85%), Cabernet Sauvignon (7%), Cabernet Franc (4%), Viognier (2%) and Petit Verdot (2%) are blended in. This wine was aged in French (65%) and American (35%) oak; 24% of the barrels were new. This selection sell for around $12 but proficient shoppers will note that it can often be found for less than $10.
While there is only a small amount of Viognier blended in to this wine, it does wonders for the nose, adding a lovely floral quality. Blackberry, blueberry and vanilla bean are also part of the aromatics. The palate is rich, and tightly wound, with an array of deep, dark berry fruit flavors. The finish has continued vanilla, along with chicory notes and a dollop of lingering minerals. This Malbec has firm but approachable tannins and sufficient acidity. This offering, while tasty on it’s own will perform best when matched with rich, full flavored foods.
For a relatively low price point this Malbec offers good flavors and a particularly expressive nose. It’s a nice example of the varietal and indicative of the values coming out of Argentina. With BBQ season in full swing, here’s one to keep in mind
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Posted by Gabe on June 23, 2009
As readers to this blog can attest I have a fickle relationship with Pinot Noir. 
In theory I’m a huge fan. In fact if you force me to choose a favorite varietal, Pinot Noir is in the running, with a fighting chance to win. Sadly though there are a lot of Pinot’s from California, especially in the under $20 category that don’t live up to what this great grape should be. These subpar examples often have other varietals blended in to darken the hue or add something. The trouble is they take away more Pinot character than anything they add. So when I find an example in this price range that acquits itself nicely, I find it a reason for a minor celebration. Today I’ll look at one from Irony Wines.
This 2006 Irony Pinot Noir is produced from fruit sourced in Monterey. This wine is aged in a combination of both new and old French and American oak for eight months. 24,000 cases were produced and the suggested retail price is $15.99.
Wild strawberries dominate the nose along with touches of vanilla and an inherent and appealing hint of cream. Throughout the palate, cherry and raspberry characteristics are on the forefront and underpinned by subtle spice. Earth, wild mushroom and white pepper are all part of a medium length finish. I found this wine went quite well with pork loin and rosemary roasted potatoes.
As I hinted at above what I like about this Pinot Noir is that it’s both true to the varietal and well priced. This is a genuine wine that’s widely available and sold at a reasonable cost. When it comes to California Pinot Noir those traits don’t intersect very often. This wine is made to drink now and will be enjoyable for the next couple of years. As far as everyday drinking Pinot goes, this is a solid choice.
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Posted by Gabe on June 20, 2009
Today’s recommendation for a Father’s Day gift of Cabernet Sauvignon comes from Napa Valley. Travel to Napa and you’ll get to taste many different varietals, but one fact will quickly take hold; Cab is King. And with Dad being King on Father’s Day it’s only natural that a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon would make a nice gift. Today’s selection is from Cornerstone Cellars. This boutique producer of Cabernet makes just a few thousands cases of wine per year. At just over 1,200 cases their 2005 Napa Valley designated selection is their largest current production. Their wines are made by Celia Masyczek who is both highly regarded and sought after. Today I’m going to look at their, smaller production, Howell Mountain Cabernet. This Napa Valley sub-appellation is located east of Calistoga. Elevations 1,400 feet and above, a lack of fog, early morning warmth and vineyards that fully ripen a bit later than the rest of the valley are all things that make Howell Mountain unique.
The Cornerstone Cellars 2004 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon is composed of fruit harvested over a period of a month. This wine is 100% Howell Mountain and all Cabernet. Aging was accomplished over 22 months in French oak; 75% of the barrels were new. 620 cases of this vintage were produced. The suggested retail price for this wine is $100.
A couple of things are readily apparent about this Cabernet when you pour and taste it. The first thing is that it’s black as night; reminding me a bit of Petite Sirah in its hue. Second and not at all surprising is that it needs some air. There’s a lot going on the minute you pop the cork and taste it so you could be fooled into not decanting; don’t make that mistake. After an hour in the decanter the difference is beyond substantial. It’s like the distinction between taking a car with a big engine out on the highway and opening it up after having cruised neighborhood streets for an hour; only then can you truly appreciate the power of the engine. The same thing is true with this Cabernet Sauvignon.
Having given it that time to open up I found the nose to be full of effusive black raspberry, earth, mushroom and hints of leather. The palate is intense and layered with opulent fruit, bold spice and tremendous mineral notes that underpin things. The finish, which has terrific length, features ever emerging earth, dusty baker’s chocolate notes and echoing spices. This wine is very well structured.
What I like best about this offering is that it achieves its intent. The 2004 Cornerstone Cellars Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon is a full throttle, ripe Napa wine with the added punch of mountain fruit intensity. All that said this wine is balanced and will age well. No doubt in fact that this Cabernet will improve for 15-20 in appropriate storage conditions. Personally though, I find its exuberance and explosive berry fruit hard to resist right now. So if Dad has been good this year and you decide to splurge on this wine for him, know that you are getting a tremendous example of Cabernet from one of regions it flourishes in. If you’re lucky, he’ll share some with you.
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Posted by Gabe on June 19, 2009
Martin & Weyrich has become a standard bearer for me when it comes to 
Paso Robles Wineries. They’re one of the larger producers and make a broad selection of offerings. They also manage to maintain a high level of quality across those offerings. It’s unlikely to love every selection from a winery, particularly one that makes as many releases as Martin & Weyrich does. The bottom line though is that by and large I find their wines, well made, appealing, and interesting. More often than not they are also priced fairly. All that said, when I decided to taste through about a dozen Cabernet Sauvignons so I could find a handful I felt comfortable recommending as Father’s Day gifts it seemed natural to check in with the latest one from Martin & Weyrich.
The Martin & Weyrich 2005 Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon is made from fruit sourced at the Weyrich Family Ranch. Aging was accomplished in French oak for 24 months. 188 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $30.
This wine is a touch closed up at first and some time in the decanter is recommended if you’re drinking it now. Once it opens up, berry, bramble and cedar notes emerge in the nose of this Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon. Black cherry, black raspberry, nutmeg and crushed white pepper are prominent throughout the palate. Dried cherry, earth and a touch of espresso all emerge in the finish which is of above average length. This wine is well structured and has firm acidity. Roasted game or pasta with a hearty meat sauce would be excellent matches for this Cabernet.
People are discovering Paso Robles, but it’s still not a household name, meaning there are still a lot of values to be had there. This Cabernet Sauvignon is one of them. It’s $30 but would be a lot more if it came from a region that was better known. In this price range it’s a bonus to get a Cab that you can easily lay down for 7-8 years. If you want to splurge a little on Dad get him two bottles of this wine; one to drink now and one to age.
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Posted by Gabe on June 18, 2009
The second Cabernet Sauvignon I’m going to recommend as a Fathers Day gift is from Two Angels. The winemaker for the Two Angels releases is the Legendary Bob Pepi. He makes a wide range of quality wines for several producers in the US and abroad. The 2006 Two Angels Cabernet Sauvignon is made from fruit sourced on Sonoma’s Mayacamas Mountain, In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (76%), Merlot (18%) and Cabernet Franc (6%) were blended in. This offering was aged in a combination of French (85%) and American (15%) oak for 18 months; 40% of the barrels were new. This selection is finished in screw top. 600 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $27.
Leather, cherry and vanilla notes are all prominent on the nose of this Cabernet Sauvignon. Throughout the palate, layer after layer of cherry and spice are present. Earth, mineral, black tea, pencil lead, tobacco and light truffle notes all emerge in the persistent finish. This wine has good structure and acidity. This Cabernet would be an excellent match for Pork Carnitas or other flavorful meats.
The elegance of this Cabernet is what stood out most to me about it. From the moment you open and pour this wine it’s immediately smooth and graceful. It’s gentle and refined but keeps coming at you with wave after wave of complex flavors and characteristics. This release will be enjoyable for the next several years. This is an offering that tastes more expensive than its $27 price point. Buy this Cabernet for Dad and he’s sure to think you spent more on his gift than you actually did.
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