Mastroberardino - 2005 Radici Taurasi Aglianico

Aglianico is one of the Italian grapes that I’ve been pretty excited about the last few years. It’s a unique variety that flourishes in its homeland and we’ve been seeing more and more examples of it on US shelves as time goes on. And while our history of Aglianico in the US is pretty short, its story in Italy dates back a couple of thousand years. Today I’ll look at one from long time producer Mastroberardino. The Mastroberardino 2005 Radici Taurasi was produced using fruit sourced from two vineyards. These vineyards sit approximately 1,800 feet above sea level.  This offering is 100% Aglianico. Fermentation took place over 15 days in stainless steel tanks. Aging took place in barriques and casks of varying size and age. French and Slavonian oak were both employed; new, 2 year and 3 years barrels were all part of the program. 80,000 bottles (approximately 6,600 cases) of this wine were produced. It has a suggested retail price of $65 and is currently available at WineChateau.com for less than $46.00.

Aromas of leather, wild strawberry and cigar box fill the intoxicating nose of this 2005 Aglianico. Dried fruit flavors, both red and black, dominate the palate of this wine. Raspberry, cherry, strawberry and a hint of blackberry are all present. Hints of tobacco leaf underscore things. The finish shows off sour fruits, black pepper, rhubarb and a veritable avalanche of earth notes. This wine has medium tannins and firm acidity.

This is a classic example of Aglianico and as is the case with the majority of great Italian wine, it wants to be paired with food. Hard cheeses, pasta dripping with your grandmas red sauce and roasted meats are all examples of food that will pair terrifically with this wine and allow it to express al its charms. If you like Aglianico, give this one a shot.

Caparone - 2003 Aglianico

Aglianico is one of those grape varietals that a lot of people aren't familiar with. It's mostly found in Southern Italy, but plantings are cropping up in other parts of the world. Most notably it's being planted in Australia and California. Caparone Winery in Paso Robles California established the first American planting of Aglianico in the United States in 1988. An interesting article about their work with Aglianico and other Italian varietals can be found on their website.

The 2003 Caparone Aglianico is available, as are all their wines, for $14.00.  It opens with a heady nose of black cherry fruit. The first sip reveals readily apparent but not overwhelming oak. The mid-palate is full of earthiness and a plethora of spices. There is a muskiness to this wine that adds weight to the mouthful. The long finish is highlighted by smoke and pepper notes.

This Aglianico is impeccably balanced with good acidity. As stated oak is readily apparent but doesn't detract from the fruit at all. It drinks fine on it's own, but the Caparone wines are built for food. Also like the other wines the Caparone's make this Aglianico is built for the long term. I'd expect the earthiness on this one to increase with some age. For $14.00 you're going to have a hard time doing better.