Apothic Red - 2008 California Winemaker’s Blend

When I’m headed to a party, or planning to entertain masses in my home I look for crowd pleasing wines to serve. Left to my own devices I gravitate towards the esoteric; most though want something tasty to drink alongside their sandwich. So in these cases I often seek out blends. They can offer a range of flavors to keep savvier folks interested, and plenty of out front satisfaction for those who just want something that goes down easy. Often times these blends are ones that includes Zinfandel or Syrah. Today I’ll look at one from California that is widely available. Apothic Red 2008 California Winemaker’s Blend was produced using fruit from vineyards throughout California. This offering is a blend of Syrah, Zinfandel, and Merlot. The alcohol content is a modest 13.1% and this wine is available all over the country for a suggested retail price of $14.

Red and black fruit aromas are plentiful on the nose of this 2008 California wine. Once you take the first sip you’re hit with a solid wallop of sweet berry fruit that continues through the fruit driven, bright palate. Towards the back end of the palate dried fruit notes emerge and they lead to the finish which shows off cinnamon and nutmeg spice notes as well as white pepper and a nice assortment of sour fruit flavors. Sufficient acidity keeps things in check.

Apothic Red is a appealing, up front wine that will play well large groups of people. Whether you pair it with a burger or a slice of pizza this wine will work well. It has everyman, everyday appeal. This the sort of release everyone should have a few bottles of on hand, to serve to surprise guests, or to pair with leftovers.

Big House - 2009 Big House White / 2009 Big House Red

Who wouldn’t want to drink single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon everyday, or perhaps first growth Burgundy, or even small production Petite Sirah? I for one can raise my hand affirmatively. Most likely I’d go for the Petite Sirah, a weak spot if ever I had one. However most days many folks are looking for something that is both tasty and affordable. With a little bit of research and luck it could, and quite frankly should, be interesting too. That doesn’t sound like a lot to ask, but how does one discern one bottle from another when there are aisles and aisles of wine out there? There are two ways I go in these circumstances; one is the esoteric route, the other is the tried and true. Left to my own devices, I most often lean towards the slightly arcane or obscure, that’s just my nature. I’ll take a chance on something in the value price range and if it doesn’t pan out at least it was an adventure. If others are involved I tend to rein myself in a little bit. I look for something I’m familiar with that I feel has mass appeal. Today I’ll look at two such releases from Big House. The Big House wines used to reside under Randall Graham’s Bonny Doon label. A number of years ago they were sold off and now Big House is its own label with a portfolio unto itself.

The 2009 Big House White was produced from fruit sourced at different vineyard sites throughout California. This wine is a blend of Malvasia Bianca (56%), Muscat Canelli (22%), Viognier (18%) and Rousanne (4%). This wine underwent temperature controlled fermentation prior to bottling. This offering has a suggested retail price of $9.99.

Lychee fruit, papaya and orange blossom aromas are all present in the nose of this wine. Lemon zest, pineapple, mango and a solid core of spice characteristics are all on display throughout the palate. A bit of vanilla bean emerges on the finish of this wine which also has a hint of honey in an overall crisp and zingy close. This wine will be an excellent match for Asian or Indian cuisine. It has lots of crowd pleasing potential and will also work well as a welcome wine.

The 2009 Big House Red was also produced from fruit sourced throughout California. This offering is a blend of Petite Sirah (27%), Syrah (14.5%), Montepulciano (8.6%), Barbera (8.2%), Nero d’Avola (6.4%), Tempranillo (6.1%) and a host of others in smaller and smaller quantities. This wine underwent temperature controlled fermentation. Some lots underwent malolactic fermentation and barrel aging in primarily neutral oak. This wine has a suggested retail price of $9.99.

Plum aromas abound in the nose of Big House Red. Throughout the palate dark fruit flavors in general are prominent. Raspberry, sour black cherry and blackberry join continued plum characteristics. The finish is spicy with black and white pepper leading the charge. A good amount of earth emerges as well and adds to the old world charm on display. This wine is tasty on it’s own but is a great match for casual foods; burgers, hot dogs, sandwiches and the like are all appropriate pairing partners.

These wines from Big House have been solid values for many years. What separates them from a lot of wines in the same price category is that they’re far more interesting. Part of that is the diversity of the blends, the rest is the winemaking. These offerings are made to be food friendly and have wide appeal, but they aren’t dumbed down like so many in this price range. They're are solid everyday vales the average wine drinker will enjoy.

Masi Agricola - 2009 Masianco / 2006 Campofiorin

Today I’ll look at a couple of wines from Italian producer Masi Agricola. If the name sounds familiar that’s no surprise as they’ve been around quite awhile. It’s likely you’ll recognize their labels too. With some wineries or brands their ubiquity on shelves isn’t necessarily a good sign. Not so with Masi Agricola, they have been a quality producer of Venetian Wines for several hundred years. Like many people I first became aware of them as a producer of Amarone. I’ll be looking at one of those in the next few weeks. Today the focus is on two other wines in their portfolio. First up is the Masi 2009 Masianco. Fruit for this offering was sourced in at the Stra Del Milione at Castions di Strada in Friuli. This wine is primarily Pinot Grigio (25%), with Verduzzo (25%) also blended in. Each varietal is picked, fermented and aged separately. It’s blended together prior to bottling. The suggested retail price for this wins is $18.

Lemon ice with an undercurrent of vanilla both emerge in the fresh, vibrant nose of this 2009 wine. The lemon theme continues through the palate where it’s accompanied by other citrus elements as well as tropical fruit such as pineapple and a gentle wisp of mango. Minerals and spice emerge on the finish which is impressively lengthy, layered and marked by crisp and savory fruit. Those flavors come together to form a thirst quenching and mouth watering wine. This selection is quite lovely on it’s own, but truly shines when paired with lighter bodied foods.

The next wine is the Masi 2006 Campofiorin. The fruit for this offering comes from vineyards in the hills of Verona. This selection is a blend of Corvina (70%), Rondinella (25%), and Molinara (5%). 25% of the grapes are dried for 6 weeks and then fermented with the fresh grapes that have already undergone their own fermentation. This wine sees 18 months in oak. 2006 represents the 36^th vintage of this particular bottling. The suggested retail price for this wine is $20.

The nose of this 2006 red blend shows off dried red fruits, violet and lavender aromas. The dried fruit characteristics continue on the palate where they become plush and velvety. Cherry plays a lead role and some darker notes creep in as well along with a range of spices such as pepper, vanilla and hints of clove. Earth and dark, dusty baker’s chocolate flavors all emerge in the finish. Fine acidity keeps this wine perfectly balanced. This offering really works best when paired with food. Hard cheeses, pasta with red sauce and a charcuterie plate would each work perfectly.

Both of these wines from Masi Agricola represent excellent values in their categories. In each case they over deliver quality and complexity at a price many wine lovers can afford on a regular basis. Their long history and wide availability means you should have no trouble finding these wines.

Luce della Vite - 2007 Lucente

When it comes to red wine from Tuscany the first thing that springs to mind is Sangiovese. That Italian grape is responsible for some of the world’s very best wines. For a number of years now international varietals have of course also made a foothold there. Today I’ll look at a blend that combines the local and the international; most often these are referred to as Super Tuscans. The Luce della Vite 2007 Lucente was produced using grapes sourced in the Montalcino section of Tuscany. This blend is made up of Merlot (50%), Sangiovese (35%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (15%). Fermentation took place in stainless steel. Barrel aging was accomplished over 12 months in a combination of French and American oak; 60% of the barrels were new. 213,000 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $29.99.

Violets, dark cherry and thyme scents all emerge in the nose of this wine. Those aromas are a bit reticent at first but really come into their own as the wine opens up. So too with the palate, and about an hour in the decanter is heartily recommended to get the most from this offering. There is an absolute avalanche of dried fruit flavors present throughout the palate; both red and black reference point are included. Black pepper spice plays a role here as well and leads to the finish which shows off a terrific amount of prominent earth as well as lesser forceful espresso characteristics. Dusty cocoa notes close things out with a final flourish. This wine has excellent acidity and firm but yielding tannins.

This is a case of the Super Tuscan model working very well. The international varieties play a vital role, but never overshadow the Sangiovese, which is at the core of this wine even though it’s only 35% of the blend. At the end of the day this is a interesting wine that is both stylish and elegant in approach and overall mouth-feel. Pair this with any number of classic Italian dishes for a terrific match. Available in the mid $20’s if you shop around, this is a solid value.

Parducci - 2008 Sustainable White / 2006 Sustainable Red

Parducci Wine Cellars has been making dependable and affordable wines for quite a few years now. This Mendocino producer is both sustainably farmed and carbon neutral. For me the first varietal that comes to mind with Parducci is Petite Sirah, but they have a range of selections. Today I’ll look at two current release blends. The 2008 Sustainable White is a blend of Chenin Blanc (41.5%), Sauvignon Blanc (38%), Viognier (12%), Muscat Canelli (7.5%) and Friulano (1%). 9,000 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $10.99.

Fresh fruit aromas fill the nose of this 2008 blend; Lychee fruit is prominent with vanilla bean underscoring it. Hints of tangerine and mango come through in the palate along with gentle wisps of cantaloupe. The finish is spicy and lovely with sufficient length. This wine is balanced by good acidity and is perfectly suited to pair with food.

The 2006 Sustainable Red is a blend of Zinfandel (39%), Syrah (26%), Cabernet Sauvignon (23%) and Carignane (12%).This offering was aged over 26 months in a combination of oak barrels and neutral redwood tanks. 9,000 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $10.99.

The nose of Sustainable Red is filled with red raspberry notes. Vanilla and thyme player a smaller but still decent sized role. The palate shows off a medley of dry fruit flavors. Cranberry, sour black cherry, strawberry and blackberry are all part of things. Hints of rhubarb emerge on the finish along with black pepper. This wine is even keeled with good acidity. As with the white blend this is tailor made for food. What’s particularly impressive is that none of the varietals shine above the rest. They’re seamlessly joined together to form a whole that is greater than the sum of its parts.

Both of these wines from Parducci are really nice values. They’re each meant to pair with food though the white in particular also drinks well on its own. For just about $10 these are interesting selections, made with care and a conscience that you won’t mind opening on a Tuesday night with a slice of pizza or Chinese takeout.

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Introducing "Lola Kay" by Rubissow Wines

One of the producers that have hit my radar over the last couple of years is Rubissow. This Mt. Veeder based producer has been doing impressive things with estate grown Mountain fruit dating back to the mid 80’s. Of late, they’ve ratcheted things up to another level. By dropping production levels and also physically dropping fruit on their vines they’ve shifted to a more concentrated, full bodied style of wine. Now they have also launched a new project: Lola Kay. Lola Kay is essentially their second label. What this represents is more than that though. With the Lola Kay imprint they source their fruit from friends, neighbors and other local vineyards that have some extra high quality fruit they can’t use for one reason or another. While the vineyard names aren’t on the label let's just say they all come from the nice part of town. By taking advantage of surplus they get excellent deals and pass the savings on to consumers.

The first release is a blend of Cabernet Franc (52%), Merlot (35%), Syrah (10%), Cabernet Sauvignon (2.5%), and Petit Verdot (0.5%). It was aged in all French oak, 40% of the barrels were new. Lola Kay 2006 Napa Red Wine has a suggested retail price of $20. The grapes used for this project normally go into wines that sell for $40 - $50.

I tasted this wine at Rubissow last summer, and while I don’t have specific notes on it, I recall that it was a tasty wine that complemented the main portfolio well. From my memory I recollect it representing a very nice value as well. It's good to see that it's out on shelves now.

Look for an extensive interview with Peter Rubissow to be posted here soon.

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Jacob's Creek - 2001 Johann Shiraz / Cabernet Sauvignon

When it comes to Australian wine, Jacob’s Creek is amongst the ubiquitous names. Many of the wines in their “Classic” and “Reserve” tiers are widely available on US shelves. A bit harder to locate, are the “Heritage” line of wines. Today I’m going to look at one of the wines in that range. The Jacob’s Creek 2001 Johann Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon was produced using fruit sourced from a number of vineyard blocks. The varietal breakdown is 64% Shiraz and 36% Cabernet Sauvignon. The parcels were fermented and aged in oak separately. After 18 months In barrel the blend was created using the components they felt would best show off both the Shiraz and the Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is named after Johann Gramp, a Bavarian immigrant who planted the first commercial vineyard in the Barossa Valley. This wine most often sells for about $70.

Plum, blueberry and blackberry aromas fill the nose of this 2001 Australian blend. The palate of this wine is full flavored, layered and complex. Wave after wave of delicious dark berry fruit flavors are in evidence. That said this wine manages to retain balance and never go over the top. Vanilla, sour berry, white pepper and plum pudding spices emerge at mid-palate and continue through the impressive finish which also features copious mineral and white pepper notes. This wine has firm but yielding tannins and good acidity.

What I like best about this selection is the length of the finish coupled with the overall restraint the wine shows. While this offering, the benchmark wine of Jacob’s Creek, is full flavored it’s also impeccably balanced and structured. At nine years old now it still shows plenty of life. I expect this offering to drink well for the next 5-8 years. And while this will be a little harder to locate than their general release wines, the effort will be rewarded

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Tasting The Wines of Villavid Winery At The New York Wine Expo

I attended the New York Wine Expo this Weekend. Most of the major wine regions of the world were represented; some regions really came out in force. One of these was Spain which had quite an array of producers present. I found a couple that I really liked. One that stood out was Villavid Winery. The New York Wine Expo featured breakout sessions each day. These presentations took place in a classroom like setting and allowed a producer to spend a nice chunk of time explaining their wines and having them tasted in a quieter atmosphere than the main tasting floor. This method allows for more give and take between those tasting and the winery.

I decided to go to the session for Villavid Winery. Spain was on my mind and they’re a producer I was completely unfamiliar with previously. It turned out that my lack of familiarity is no surprise; Villavid Winery is not yet distributed in the US. This trip to the NY Wine Expo was set up in large part to introduce them to the US Market and find someone to bring the wines in. While they’re new to us, Villavid has a long history. They were founded in 1952 and have been producing wine ever since. They’re located in the La Mancha region of Spain and produce a range of wines. My reflections on what we tasted are as follows:

Blanco Villavid (D.O. Manchelua) – This white wine is a 50/50 blend of Macabeo and Verdejo. This fruit was sourced from vines over 10 years old. This selection was bottled without any oak treatment. Gooseberry, grapefruit and very light vanilla characteristics mark the expressive nose of this wine. There are reference points which bring Sauvignon Blanc to mind. The palate features a host of tropical fruit themes; these are underscored by wisps of grass. This wine is crisp and refreshing. The finish beckons you back to the glass for more. Good acidity and balance are in evidence. This wine will work well as a stand alone aperitif. It will also pair well with lighter foods such as soft cheeses. Goat cheese tarts would be a perfect match.

Rosado Villavid (D.O. Manchuela) – This Rosé was produced using 100% Bobal. This is a varietal indigenous to Spain. This Rosé has a medium hue. It’s a bit darker than the average old world Rosé but lighter than many new world examples. Candied cherry in the nose is underpinned by light hints of tangerine. The palate is a bowl of fresh berry fruit; cherry takes the lead. White pepper complements the berry and leads to the finish. A hint of orange emerges and lingers nicely along with continuing spice, berry and some welcome savory notes to close things out. This wine has good balance and will work well with many lighter foods and some medium bodied ones as well.

Tinto Tempranillo Joven Villavid (D.O. Manchuela) – This wine was produced using 100% Cencibel which is the local name for Tempranillo. It was produced using fruit from vines over 35 years old. This selection spent 12 months in French oak. A deep, dark, purple hue makes this a striking selection from the first pour. Cherry notes tell the main story of this wine from the first whiff to the last sip. Along the way the palate is fruity, fresh and bright with sweet plums, blueberries and wild strawberry joining the cherry. The finish is medium in length and this wine has good acidity and nice balance. This offering is tasty on its own but will shine when paired with grilled meats.

Reserva Villavid (D.O. Manchuela) – This wine was produced using 100% Bobal. The fruit was selected from vines with over 30 years of age. Aging was accomplished over 12 months in two year old American oak barrels. Cedar and mulled berry notes mark the subtle but emerging nose of this wine. Dark berry fruit is persistent throughout the palate. The finish features a nice complement of sour berry and savory fruit notes. This offering is persistent and hangs on for a nice length of time.

As I stated above these wines have yet to become available in the US marketplace. I hope that changes soon. The offerings I tasted will range in price from about $10 to $20. The Blanco and Rosé will likely be closer to $10 and the Tempranillo and Reserva closer to $20. Each of them represents good or excellent values. They are distinct and individual but also uniform in things like balance and overall style. Look for them on a shelf near you, soon.

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Bodega Septima - 2007 Gran Reserva

Single varietal wines are probably the ones most American consumers have historically identified with and looked for. There now seems to be a growing segment in the US that realizes the power of blended wines. As we mature as a wine consuming culture in the US there are more and more folks that are comfortable straying outside of their safe zone and experimenting. Blended wines, whether classic Bordeaux style blends or otherwise can offer many positives. Of course at their best the goal is to achieve the best possible wine using the highest quality fruit a producer has available. In addition to that sometimes its as simple as some Merlot being blended in to a Cabernet for additional complexity. In any case while the single varietal expressions have their place too, blended wines are their own unique discipline. Today I'll look at one from  Bodega Septima. The Bodega Septima 2007 Gran Reserva was produced using fruit sourced in several distinct parts of Mendoza. This wine is a blend of Malbec (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), and Tannat (10%). Each varietal was barrel aged separately in a combination of French and American oak. After 12 months in barrel the final blend was assembled prior to this offering being bottled. The suggested retail price for this wine is $25.

When this 2007 blend is poured, the deep purple hue is striking. Blackberry, blueberry and vanilla aromas waft enticingly from the nose of this wine. The palate is loaded with intense layers of fruit flavor. These are joined by spice and chocolate notes that coat the tongue and back of the throat with flavor and good intensity. Espresso, earth and mineral reference points make up the lengthy finish. This wine has firm tannins and good acid structure. In it's powerful youth this wine will work best paired with hearty, full flavored dishes that can match its intensity.

What I like best about this wine is the balance on display between the Malbec and the Cabernet Sauvignon. The lusty fruit of the Malbec shines through, along with the depth of flavor and structure that the Cabernet provides. The softer and lighter bodied Tannat acts as a bridge, bringing it all together. While this wine is delicious now, particularly after a solid decanting, it will undoubtedly improve for the next 5-6 years and drink well for several after that. A nice wine and a very good value.

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Urraca - 2007 Familia Langley Reserva

It was just about a year ago that I first tasted the offerings from Argentine producer Urraca Wines. Since then I’ve gone back to them several times and been impressed each time with their overall portfolio. Their wines hit a different segment of the Argentine wine imports than most. Within the vast number of wines from Argentina, the majority on US shelves are value based. Some of those values are outstanding and provide quality and some are generic. What Urraca does from the get go is to aim higher. They start at a premium level and then also make super-premium offerings. So while the least expensive wine you’re going to find from them is in the mid to high teens, there is value to be had. Today I’m going to look at the current release of their flagship wine. This wine is certainly within the super-premium category. The question is does it still deliver value, or even a bargain, in its price point.

The Urraca 2007 Familia Langley Reserva is made using fruit from the Mendoza region of Argentina. The proprietary blend is composed of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Malbec (30%), and Merlot (30%). Barrel aging was accomplished over 18 months in a combination of French and American oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is approximately $70.

A potpourri of dark berry aromas lead the exuberant nose of this 2007 blend. Blackberry and cherry (both red and black) intermingle along with lots of white pepper and hints of nutmeg throughout the palate of this selection. This wine has serious length. The impressive finish is marked my minerals, earth, black pepper and a hints of charcoal. This wine has firm tannins that soften in the glass. Excellent acidity provides the framework and keeps everything in check.

There are three things which I find equally impressive about this wine. First and quite importantly is its consistency. I was blown away by the 2005 version of this wine and was quite curious to see how the 2007 edition would stack up. Nothing to worry about there, the 2007 is every bit as impressive. The second thing that struck me is the tremendous level of even-keeled intensity that this wine displays from the first sip through the long finish. There are a lot of wines that hit you up front with big fruit and then the flavor drops as if it fell from a cliff. While this wine has little peaks and valleys, it manages to maintain a notable level of complex, layered and concentrated flavors throughout. The third thing that impresses me is the finish on the Familia Langley, which is noteworthy in length.

If you’re going to drink this wine in the short term, decanting for an hour or two is strongly recommended. However if you’re patient and can lay it down for a few years, you will be rewarded by a wine that will show plenty of positive evolution. Yes this wine is $70, and yes for that money it’s still, very much, an excellent value. It compares favorably to many blends from a number of regions of the world that hit the triple digit price point.

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Bonny Doon Vineyard - 2005 Le Cigare Volant

Blended wines can be particularly interesting. This is especially true in the case of a wine like Bonny Doon Vineyard’s Le Cigare Volant. This wine which was first made in 1984 is produced vintage after vintage with a concept in mind. Randall Grahm works each year for a style and uses the lots of fruit and blend that he feels best achieve his goal. Today I’ll look at the current release. The Bonny Doon Vineyard 2005 Le Cigare Volant is made from fruit sourced at a variety of long-term growers. This vintage is a blend of Grenache (50%), Mourvèdre (24%), Syrah (22%), Carignane (3%), and Cinsault (1%). This wine is bottled unfiltered and finished in screw cap. 1,615 cases of the 2005 vintage were produced and the suggested retail price is $30.

A floral component, led by violets, fills the nose of Le Cigar Volant. That’s joined by earth, hints of vanilla, jasmine and red plum as well. Blueberry, dark plum and subtle but present blackberry are at the core of the lush, full flavored palate of this wine. Spice notes are prominent throughout, with nutmeg, star anise and cardamom of particular note. Savory notes kick in and lead the finish along with increasing spice and flourishes of sour cherry, and earth. The finish is generous in length and impressively layered with subtlety. Medium tannins and excellent acidity balance things out nicely. This wine will pair well with something as casual as a gyro or more complex as Coq au Vin.

Le Cigare Volant is the signature wine of Bonny Doon Vineyards. The label says California, but the flavors are Old World indeed. From the modest 13.5% alcohol, to the impeccable balance this wine is stylistically, spiritually, and by intent a nod to classic French wines of the Southern Rhone, more than modern Southern Rhone offerings.  I’ve had this wine more than any other Bonny Doon selections over the years. While it’s certainly been pretty consistent there are always variations. The 2005 is amongst the best versions. If you drink it over the next 3-5 years you’re going to want to decant it. An hour is fine, but two hours is even better. That time really allows this selection to open up and expose its charms, which are many. Sip after sip Le Cigare Volant demands you come back to the glass for more. Pretty soon the bottle is going to be gone and you’ll wish you decanted a couple. If you’re familiar with this wine, 2005 is a benchmark vintage that will age for the long haul. If somehow you’ve never had this classic California offering from Randall Grahm, this vintage is a great place to start. If I could only use one word to describe this wine, that word would be character. Le Cigare Volant 2005 is loaded with it.

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Bodegas Navarro Lopez - 2007 Rojo Tempranillo / Cabernet Sauvignon

Spain's Bodegas Navarro Lopez  has a history that dates back over 100 years. Current owners Don Doroteo and Navarro Donado purchased the property in the 1980's. Between that original property and two others acquired in the 1990's they have over 150 hectares of vineyard land. A majority of their holdings are planted to Tempranillo, Garancha and Macabeo. Today I'll look at one of their blends under the Granrojo designation. The Rojo 2007 Tempranillo/Cabernet Sauvignon is produced using fruit from the Valdepenas region of Spain. The vineyard site is 700 meters above sea level. This offering blends 90% Tempranillo and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. 3,000 cases of this vintage were imported and the suggested retail price is $10.99.

Violet and rose petal aromas are joined by both red and black fruit characteristics in the nose of this Spanish blend. The palate of this wine is beautifully dry with cranberry, cherry and hints of strawberry all playing a role. Spice notes really kick in about halfway through with white pepper leading the charge along with a bit of nutmeg. The story of the finish is told primarily by what can be best described as an avalanche of mineral notes. These are joined by some earth and together they help provide good length. Firm acidity frames this offering. This wine will be a great match for grilled sausages or cured meats.

Finding wines that are worth drinking in this price range is fun and can be rewarding. they're out there to be sure. However this selection kicks things up a few pegs. The mineral component on the finish is both generous and compelling. When you factor that in it sets this wine apart. A lovely little wine and an even better value for the money.

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Hess Collection - 2006 19 Block Cuvée

I’ve been fond of wines form Mount Veeder for many years now. But over the last year I’ve made a more concerted effort to try more of them. While I think a wide array of varietals shine up on Mt. Veeder the classic Bordeaux grapes are amongst those I feel stand out most often. Today I’m going to take a look at a selection from Hess Collection. They’re the largest winery on Mt Veeder by case production. Within their size though they do a wide variety of things; both small and large production wines are part of their portfolio. Their estate boasts 310 acres of vineyards which are sustainably farmed. Today I’ll look at one of their blends. The Hess Collection 2006 19 Block Cuvée is produced from estate fruit. The vineyard site the fruit was sourced from ranges in altitude from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. Fruit was selected from 19 blocks within the vineyard, thus the name of the wine. This selection is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (69%), Malbec (11%), Syrah (10%), Merlot (5%), Petit Verdot (3%) and Cabernet Franc (2%). Oak aging was accomplished over 18 months in French oak; 50% of the barrels were new. Just over 14,000 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $35.

Leather and cherry notes are prominent on the nose of this Mt. Veeder blend. A host of berry fruit, (particularly blackberry) along with spice, and cigar box are part of the palate. Somewhere around mind-palate, dark, rich unsweetened chocolate notes kick in. The finish is nice and lengthy with black pepper, mineral notes and cherry that keeps echoing. This wine has a firm tannic structure that softens with some air, as well as firm acidity.

This is a very well rounded wine. While this selction is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, the other varietals shine through and create a very cohesive blend that makes this offering a clear case of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts. Though this wine also includes Syrah, stylistically it drinks like a Napa Valley Bordeaux or Meritage style blend. For a suggested retail price of $35 this wine over delivers in spades. With over 14,000 cases made it should be easy to locate too.

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Urraca - 2005 Familia Langley Reserva

Many well known wine regions make blends inspired by the well known examples that come out of Bordeaux. These can fall flat when the winery in question is simply trying to imitate a style. However when a producer aspires to make the best blend possible with the fruit available to them, all the while showing off their terroir, they have a much better chance of hitting the mark. Today I'll look at the third wine from Urraca, which is a Bordeaux style blend. The 2005 Urraca Familia Langley Reserva is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (36%), Malbec (36%), Cabernet Franc (17%) and Merlot (11%). Oak aging was accomplished in a combination of French and American barrels over a period of 18 months. The suggested retail price for this offering is $72.

Leather, vanilla, dark brooding berry and hints of espresso bean are all present in the nose. Lots of plum, blueberry, and a host of dark, ripe, heady berry fruit are prominent throughout the full bodied palate along with plum pudding spice. Sweet dark chocolate notes, black tea, mineral, white pepper, cigar-box and ever emerging earth characteristics come together to form an impressively lengthy finish. This blend has chewy tannins, good acidity and excellent overall structure. Pair it with big, bold foods that can match it's combination of power and elegance. The blend may be made of Old World components, but this is very much a New World wine.

As was the case with the 2005 Primera this wine should be decanted for maximum enjoyment if you're going to drink it in the next couple of years. My advice however is to tuck this away in your cellar and forget about if for the next 5 years or so. Then dig it out and drink it sometime over the next 8-10 years. The Urraca wines I have had are all excellent, well made, "high end" offerings. There are a ton of well priced, well made wines coming from South America in general and Argentina specifically. many of these offer value, and sufficient complexity for everyday drinking. The wines from Urraca aim for a different goal, they shoot for greatness. These delicious, complex wines meet their goal. In my opinion these offerings stand with a handful of other Argentine producers as examples of the best wines they offer.

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Urraca - 2005 Primera

Malbec is more closely identified with Argentina than any other single grape variety. There's good reason for that; while it’s made elsewhere Malbec absolutely flourishes and reaches its apex there. The wide array of styles in which Malbec is made reminds me of how diverse Zinfandel can be in California. Some choose to make it brash and exuberant while others go for more of a refined and elegant style. Each has its benefits. Not surprisingly Urraca Wines has more acres of Malbec under vine than any other varietal. Cabernet Sauvignon is a close second however. Today I’ll look at one of their Malbec based blends.

The 2005 Urraca Primera is a blend of Malbec (70%) and Merlot (30%). Oak treatment was accomplished with 18 months in a combination of French and American barrels. The suggested retail price for this offering is $37.

I highly recommend decanting this selection if you’re going to be drinking it over the next couple of years. An hour is very helpful, and closer to two hours would be even better. Once it’s had that chance to breathe this wine starts really expressing itself. The intoxicating nose features blueberry, plum and violets along with touches of cedar. There is a terrific purity of fruit through the palate that can not help itself but impress as it is intense, layered and just downright delicious. Black cherries are the most prominent along with additional berry fruits as well as fruitcake spice. Chocolate, hints of pencil lead and plenty of earth emerge on the long, persistent finish. Black and white pepper note linger so long them seem like they’ll never stop coming. This offering has firm tannins and excellent acidity. Roasted meats or game will be a natural match for this blend.

There are several things that impress me about this wine. The intense and pure fruit I mentioned above is one. The other is the fact that this blend is a perfect combination of characteristics. The Malbec shows its hedonistic, brash nature, and the Merlot provides backbone and structure. This is a tremendous wine that deserves and demands attention. Not an offering you want to rush to drink, rather one to contemplate over a nice meal with friends who will be lucky that you shared this Argentine powerhouse with them.

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Michael David - Incognito Rhone Style Blend

A number of years ago someone poured me a glass of Seven Deadly Zins, that was my first experience with the Michael David wines. Since that time I've gone on to have quite a few of their offerings. Their Earthquake Petite Sirah is one of my favorites, year to year. A couple of things always strike me about their wines. They tend to be big, bold, full throttle offerings, loaded with flavor and indicative of the Lodi region where fruit is predominately sourced. Secondly I've found their wines to be pretty consistent from vintage to vintage. Over the next few days I'm going to look at a few of their current releases, the first one up is a Rhone style blend. The 2006 Incognito is a blend of Mourvedre, Petite Sirah, Cinsault, Carignane and Grenache. This selection was aged in French oak barrels. The suggested retail price for this offering is $19.50.

This Rhone inspired blend has a pretty striking nose, filled with blackberry, blueberry, cinnamon and clove notes. The palate has a host of dark, juicy and inviting fruit prominently featured throughout. Smoke, licorice, chocolate, subtle earth and a hint of bacon fat all emerge in the finish which is of medium length. Firm acidity keeps everything in check.

What I like best about this wine is that by combining many of the varietals typically found in a Rhone blend with fruit from Lodi, what emerges is an offering that brings both regions to mind. This wine retails for close to $20, but if can often be found much closer to $15, sometimes less. At that price this is  great wine to reach for during a large gathering. The diverse flavors this blend offers will please a variety of palates.

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Three Wines For Easter Dinner

With Easter a few days away, everyone is probably worried about what to cook. Personally I'm more vested in which wines to serve, to match those foods. So I decided to find a trio of wines I could recommend. Thus I'm presenting a wine for each of three courses; Appetizers, Main Course and Dessert. First up is the Martin & Weyrich Moscato Allegro. This offering is based on the Muscat Canelli grape. The intent with this wine is to make a Moscato in the Italian style. Martin & Weyrich even used the bottle that is traditional for this in Italy. Alcohol is a modest 7.8%. 65,000 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $12.

The nose of this wine is loaded with orchard fruits such as white peach and apricot. A touch of spice also makes its presence known. Throughout the palate the Moscato Allegro is incredibly refreshing. White peach notes continue and are joined by some lighter citrus notes. Honey notes emerge on the finish, which is zesty and full of lingering spice notes.

This Moscato will be perfect on Easter served as a welcome wine, or paired with just about any appetizer. It's light bodied with some pleasing sweetness. What I like best about this wine as the starter is that it won't bog anyone down with too much alcohol or sweetness. It has just enough, and that's balanced by excellent acidity. It's likely your Easter guests will be hesitant to move on to the next wine when they get a hold of this one.

The main course wine is from Two Angels, headquartered in Napa. The 2006 Divinity is produced from fruit sourced in High valley. This blend is 52% Syrah, 22% Grenache, 20% Mouvedre and 6% Petite Sirah. Grapes were sourced at Shannon Ridge Vineyards. This blend was aged in a combination of French (70%) and American (30%) oak barrels; 35% of them were new. 500 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $25.

Blueberry, plum and raspberry aromas are underscored by touches of vanilla and nutmeg in the nose of this wine. The palate is absolutely loaded with rich, dark, explosive fruit notes that envelop the palate and scream out with unadulterated joy. Hints of white pepper, bright red cherry, and toasty oak emerge in the lengthy finish. This wine keeps beckoning you back to the glass for another sip. Divinity has a firm but yielding structure and excellent acidity.

The question is Ham or Lamb? That's what most people will serve on Easter in the United States. Either way Divinity has you covered and will make an excellent accompaniment. If you're Italian like me and your family insists on serving a heavy pasta dish after the antipasto and before the meat course, have no fear, Divinity has your back. This wine will match well with Ravioli, Lasagna or even Angel Hair with Marinara sauce. It's a delicious wine and will impress both the wine geeks in your family and the novices simply looking for a glass of red to pair with their food.

Dessert is important for any Holiday meal and Easter is no exception. My recommendation this holiday is to go with a Late Harvest Zinfandel. Specifically the 2006 from Clos LaChance. This wine is made from 100% Zinfandel. The fruit is sourced from a specific block of Zinfandel that is grown specifically for this wine. Alcohol is 16%, modest for a Late Harvest Zin. A mere 84 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $26.00.

This Late Harvest Zinfandel has a bright nose. Cherries are prominent and are joined by hints of apple that underscore them. Raspberry, strawberry and a host of other berry fruit notes dominate the palate which is full flavored but a touch lighter in body than the average Late Harvest Zinfandel. The finish brings out some chocolate notes, black pepper, lingering light mineral and spice qualities. This Zin can be dessert on it's own or match it with chocolate or berry topped cheesecake. Either way it's a perfect, and slightly decadent way to end a celebratory holiday meal.

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Robert Oatley Vineyards - 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot

Blends always fascinate me. I always find it interesting to discover if when several components come together, they're greater than the sum of the parts. In Australia blending Cabernet Sauvignon with Shiraz is very popular. So much so that it seems to have influenced producers in other regions to follow suit. When they're done well, they can be intriguing blends, with both varietals strutting their stuff, so to speak. The blend I'm looking at today is from Australia, but it's not Cabernet and Shiraz. The 2007 Robert Oatley Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot is sourced in Mudgee, New South Wales. This is a blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance Merlot. It was aged for 12 months in French oak. Each varietal was harvested, fermented and barrel aged separately before blending and bottling. 5,600 cases of this wine, finished in Screw Cap, were produced. The suggested retail price is $20.

The nose of this wine is filled with bright red cherry notes and a hint of vanilla. Throughout the palate this wine is lush and mouth-filling with balanced fruit flavors from each varietal shining through. Black pepper and hints of sour cherry emerge on the finish which is above average in length. This wine has very good acidity and gentle, yielding tannins. This Cab/Merlot blend will be a good match for a wide array of foods.

What I like about this wine is that is shows off a side of Australian Wine that some folks never think of. Big, bold Shiraz is the Australian calling card, and with good reason, they make a lot of great ones. Here's a look however at a wine that defies that flavor profile and offers good complexity in a gentler, approachable, food friendly package.

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Robert Mondavi - 2006 Private Selection Meritage

There are few names as synonymous with California wine as that of Robert Mondavi. Over the years, in addition to his namesake Napa Valley Winery, numerous subsidiaries became part of the Mondavi empire. The Private Selection wines are one of those off shoots. These wines tend to have a suggested retail just above $10 and can provide a gateway for people at the beginning of their wine exploration, as well as everyday value for more seasoned wine drinkers. Today I'll look at their current release Meritage and see what it offers. The 2006 Robert Mondavi Private Selection Meritage is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (72%), Merlot (10%), Petit Verdot (10%), and Malbec (8%). The majority of the fruit was sourced in Monterey County (66%), with the balance coming from Santa Barbara (25%), and San Benito (9%). This wine was aged in oak for 15 months, with 30% of it being new. The suggested retail price for this offering is $11.

The nose of this Meritage is comprised of dark berry fruit notes. Black cherry and plum dominate. Throughout the palate, those dark fruit tones continue, along with vanilla, black pepper, and some hints of cedar. This wine has firm, chewy tannins and good acidity. Some earth emerges on the finish along with more dark fruit and spice notes. This wine will be an excellent match for grilled chops, a burger, or strong cheeses.

The question when I taste a wine of this nature, what am I expecting for $11? I hope for a wine that is well made, true to it's varietal compostion and hopefully somewhat interesting. This low priced Meritage from Robert Mondavi Private Selection, fits the bill. It has sufficient structure to drink well for a couple of years, tastes true to being mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, and has enough length and interesting elements to make it worth it's price-tag. Truth be told it's often available for under $1o. For that amount of money, you won't mind opening it any night of the week.

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promisQous Red - A California Table Wine

When tasting a wine it's important to take into account what the intent and purpose is. Some wines are crafted with the goal of scoring 90 + points in major wine publications. Others are made with the intent of producing wines reflective of their place. And then there are wines produced with the purpose of providing everyday drinking value. The promisQous wines seem to aim for that market. I'll look at their red blend today and see if it hits its mark.  promisQous Red is a blend of Zinfandel, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and other red varietals. Fruit was sourced from several areas in California, though 42% is from Lodi. 15% of the wine was aged in barrel. The suggested retail price for this wine is $12. This offering is available at Supermarkets and Target stores that carry alcohol.

The nose of this blend is filled with plum, red raspberry and vanilla. The palate is loaded with both red and black, lush, ripe, fleshy, jammy, berry fruit flavors. Spice notes in the form of pepper emerge on the finish along with a touch of earth. This wine has the structure and acidity to stand up to a wide away of foods.

For me promisQous Red is a classic pizza wine. This is the price bracket most people are drinking in on a regular basis. For $12 you can buy this on your way home from work and pop it open to pair with leftovers or a burger. The blend of varietals offers a broad array of characteristics that emerge as you drink it, offering something pretty interesting for the price range. So, yes this wine fulfills its intent. This is one I'll keep in mind to bring with me to the first barbecue of the season.

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