Gabe's View


Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

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Chardonnay

Artesa Winery - Chardonnays

Artesa Winery has three Chardonnays amongst its offerings. Two are widely available, while a third is a more limited release. I'll look at two of them today, both from the 2006 vintage. The first Chardonnay is from their classic tier. The 2006 Chardonnay Carneros is the largest Chardonnay bottling Artesa produces. More than 30,000 cases of this wine were made. The fruit was hand harvested and 50% of it was barrel fermented. This wine is generally available for approximately $15.

The nose of this wine is loaded with baked granny smith apple, vanilla and nutmeg notes. From the very first sip through the palate apple notes are the most dominant. An undercurrent of citrus comes out in a subtle manner as well. Spice notes carry through the palate as well, along with gentle but persistent acidity. The finish of this wine is above average. Lingering apple pie spice notes are accompanied by a lighter, buttery undertone.

What I like best about this wine is it's versatility It's crisp and refreshing enough to drink on it's own but has enough layers, complexity and overall stuffing to pair with poultry, seared pork or cream based dishes. For about $15 this is a nice value.

The second Artesa Winery Chardonnay is the 2006 Carneros Estate Reserve. The production on this one was just over 3,000 cases.  Half of the wine spent over 9 months in new French oak. The suggested retail on the reserve in $26.

The nose of the reserve presents apple, vanilla and strong smoke characteristics. The palate has scone and biscuit note along with continued apple, spice and smoke. Nutmeg, apple, subtle Asian pear and apple pie crust notes dot the persistent, layered, lengthy finish.

The oak treatment on this wine makes itself known in several of the flavor components but it's unobtrusive. Compared to the other Chardonnay, the reserve is more structured and far more tightly wound.

What I like best about the reserve Chardonnay is that it's modestly priced for a reserve, especially one I'd feel comfortable tucking away in my cellar for 3-5 years.

Both of these Artesa wines are fine examples of Chardonnay. The question comes down to what type of Chardonnay you like. The first one with it's Carneros designation is a great choice for everyday drinking and offers a lot of pleasure. The reserve veers towards, but short of, being in the "California-style" with it's buttery and oak influenced notes. Personally I lean towards the Carneros over the reserve, but both are well made and fairly priced.

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Rodney Strong Vineyards - 2006 Reserve Chardonnay

Chardonnay is the most widely planted grape in the world. Partially as a result of its ubiquity it's also made in a wide array of disparate styles. Rodney Strong Vineyards alone makes four different Chardonnays. I recently looked at their Chalk Hill Chardonnay. Today I'm looking at their reserve. The 2006 Russian River Reserve spent 17 months in French oak, 51% of it being new. This selection is available only through their tasting room and website at a price of $40.

Apple, vanilla, spice and toasty notes fill the nose of this Reserve Chardonnay. From the first sip and throughout the palate of this wine brioche, creme brulee and buttery notes are prominent. They're underscored by terrific acidity and a host of mineral notes that carry through a lengthy and impressive finish. Amongst all the other notes and characteristics, apple leads the way in prominence. Every other characteristic is nuanced in comparison.

What I like about best about this Chardonnay is two-fold. The length of the finish leaves a lasting and pleasing impression. Similarly the use of oak is substantial but it's well integrated. This is certainly a bigger, creamier style of Chardonnay than the Chalk Hill. That said it's not so big and buttery as to be monolithic. The acid structure is key to keeping all the components in check and making this a terrifically balanced wine. Another compelling wine from Rodney Strong Vineyards.

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The Wines Of Summer - Half A Case Of White

I drink white wines all year round. In Spring and Summer however my consumption of white wine increases as the weather and foods provide the perfect opportunity to enjoy them. As I did recently with Rosé I've also done with white wine. I tasted through a couple dozen whites from a combination of wineries I was very familiar with to ones I had less experience with. From them I picked 6 wines that I recommend everyone drink this summer. Martin & Weyrich- 2006 Pinot Grigio. Between the industrial stuff emerging in great quantity from Italy and the number of indistinguishable attempts from California and other areas there's a lot of Pinot Grigio to wade through before you find a good one. Thankfully they're out there and this one from Martin & Weyrich in Paso Robles is one of them. The nose is filled with lemon zest and a light vanilla note. Tropical fruit and honeydew fill the palate of this wine. A soft, round mouth-feel is the trademark characteristic to me. The finish features subtle but emerging spice notes that linger. This wine is well balanced with good acid.  It'll pair nicely with a wide array of foods as well as drinking wonderfully on its own. This is the sort of white wine I could sit on my porch and drink all day. It's combination of easy drink-ability combined with more than enough complexity to keep it interesting make this a winner. With new world Pinot Grigio of this quality available it's a wonder people still drink so much of the anonymous tasting stuff like Santa Margherita. The suggested retail price is $15.

Sawtooth Winery- 2005 Viognier. This Viognier from Idaho also has Roussane blended in. Copious quantities of floral and citrus notes fill the nose of this wine. From the very first sip there is a richness in the mouth feel that comes from the addition of the Roussane. Vanilla, lychee fruit and a touch of smokiness emerge at the end of the mid-palate and carry through the finish. This wine sips nicely on its own and will be a good match for grilled chicken, pasta salad and other light foods. The retail price for this wine is $10, a terrific value.

Lucas & Lewellen Vineyards- 2007 Gewurztraminer. Lychee fruit is the first thing that emerges from the nose of this wine. From the moment I took the first sip I was hit with an avalanche of apricots. Lemon notes are prominent throughout the palate along with excellent spice characteristics dancing on the tongue. Of these, nutmeg resonates the most. This Gewurztraminer has a soft, lush mid-palate and an excellent, lengthy finish. This wine will be a great match for herb crusted goat cheese as well as light summer cuisine in general. The suggested retail price of this wine is $16. It's one of the better New World Gewurtztraminer's I've had in awhile and at that price it's a nice value to boot.

Rodney Strong- 2006 Chalk Hill Chardonnay. What would a look at white wines for summer be without at least one Chardonnay. This ubiquitous grape is one I love, but am also very finicky about. So I'm always happy when I find a Chardonnay to recommend. Spice, vanilla, citrus fruit and light toasty notes fill the nose of this Sonoma Chardonnay. Oak is present but thankfully unobtrusive as it allows the fruit to shine through wonderfully. The spice notes continue through an above average finish. Good acidity and balance make this an excellent candidate to pair with many foods. Rich, creamy cheeses, lighter grilled meats and hearty entree salads are a couple of things that come to mind. The suggested retail price for this wine is $20. This is a widely available release and wine-searcher shows it can generally be had for closer to $15.

Wild Horse Vineyards- 2006 Viognier. This is the white varietal I reach for first as an alternative to Chardonnay. They tend to be floral, unctuous and full of tropical fruit flavors. This 2006 example from Wild Horse is no exception to that. A bit of Roussane and Verdelho are blended with the Viognier. Both additions add to this wines richness and complexity. Citrus notes at the front and spice and minerality on the finish are the hallmarks of this wine. It'll serve equally well as a stand alone sipper, with white grilled meats or as a match to spicy Asian cuisine. The suggested retail price on this one is $19. At that price or the couple dollars less you're likely to find it for it's a fun and compelling summer wine.

York Mountain- 2006 Albarino. Over the last few years Albarino seems to be making some inroads in California. Most well known examples, emanate from Spain. As this offering shows though, Albarino can be well made in California too. Grapefruit and honeydew are predominate on the nose. All the way from the first sip through to the finish the trademark is of a very dry wine. This is typical of the varietal. Citrus notes emerge throughout and the finish has some mineral notes as well as a touch of tartness and gentle spice notes. This is an excellent wine to pair with appetizers or to serve to your guests as they enter your home. The retail price for this wine is $18.

Up Next: Four more releases from Rodney Strong Vineyards.

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Sawtooth Winery - 2006 Reserve Chardonnay

Sawtooth Winery makes a broad range of wines. Most are varietally labeled wines, though they do produce a blend called Skyline Red. In addition to dry table wines, Sawtooth also makes several dessert wines. The selection I'm going to look at today is from their reserve line. Sawtooth ChardThe 2006 Reserve Chardonnay was aged in small oak barrels for 6 months. Fruit was sourced from Sawtooth Vineyard. Alcohol is 13.5%, which is modest for a New World Chardonnay.  Only 140 cases of this wine were produced. The retail price is $14.99.

Mango, pineapple and vanilla dominate the nose of this Chardonnay. This wine has a rich found mouth feel full of intense fruit flavor. It's big, bright and the fruit just explodes forth from the glass. The oak treatment is evident but never detracts from the fruit. The finish is impressive in length with lingering vanilla and nutmeg spice notes. For a Chardonnay this wine will match up with fairly rich cuisine. Mushroom Ravioli with Pecorino Romano Cream sauce comes to mind, as does Chicken Pot Pie.

Chardonnay is one of the varietals I can personally be the most finicky about. There is so much of it out there in general that it's often hard to weed through and find exciting or even examples. It's even more difficult to find Chardonnay I like for a good price. At $14.99 I think the Sawtooth Reserve Chardonnay is an absolute steal. It explodes with fruit flavor and has enough oak on it to provide a nice level of complexity. As indicated this is a small production, if you like rich, fruit driven Chardonnay, grab this while it's available. This is another reasonably priced, full flavored offering from Sawtooth Winery.

 

Up Next: A look at Sawtooth Winery's Tempranillo.

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Boggy Creek Vineyards - 2005 Unwooded Chardonnay

Boggy Creek Vineyards is located in Australia's King Valley. This is one of the cooler climate areas of Australia and it tends to produce wines that have a bit of a different flavor profile than the what the average consumer thinks of when considering Australian wines. A couple of months back I had the opportunity to taste some Boggy Creek wines for the first time and I was impressed with their offerings across the board. So when the opportunity to take a closer look presented itself, I jumped at the chance. Over the next few days I'll take a look at four releases from Boggy Creek Vineyards. Boggy Creek ChardonnayToday I'm looking at Boggy Creek Vineyards Unwooded Chardonnay. Frequent readers of my blog have no doubt noted my disdain for overoaked Chardonnay. This is a beautiful varietal when handled properly. Too often in California and to a lesser degree in Australia it's mangled with absurd amounts of oak treatment. The 2005 Chardonnay from Boggy Creek Vineyards is the other extreme, no oak at all. This wine is finished in screw cap and the suggested retail is approximately $18.

The nose of the Boggy Creek Vineyards Chardonnay presents hazelnut, fig and citrus notes that really burst from the glass and envelop the senses. Taking the first sip I was hit with honeydew melon and copious tropical fruit notes. This Chardonnay is very fresh and crisp throughout. There is an excellent spiciness on the mid-palate that carries through the finish which is fairly lengthy. Good complexity is apparent through the length of this wine.

I found the 2005 Boggy Creek Vineyards Chardonnay to sip very well on it's own. It will also match well with entree salads, grilled chicken, and a variety of cheeses. This is also an excellent choice to serve with appetizers at the beginning of a long meal.

The 2005 Unwooded Chardonnay from Boggy Creek is an incredibly pure and unadulterated expression of Chardonnay. Nothing gets in the way of the fruit exploding on your palate and making its charms known.

At a suggested retail of $18 this is a nice value.

Up Next: Boggy Creek Vineyards Shiraz

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Clos La Chance - 2005 Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay

Clos La Chance releases wines in three tiers and designations. Throughout this week I'll look at a total of four wines, two from the Hummingbird Series and two from the Estate Series. Close La Chance will also be featured again on this blog at the end of April during Petite Sirah Week. Today's wine is one of several Chardonnays Clos La Chance produces. A couple of them are Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnayvineyard designate wines (part of the Special Selections Series). The 2005 Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay is part of their Estate Series. Just under 3,500 cases were produced and the suggested retail price is $20. 20% of the wine spent 10 months in new French oak with the remainder in either 1 year oak (30%) or neutral (French & American) oak.

The nose of this Chardonnay presents an abundance of pear and pineapple alongside subtler spice notes.  Pear comes out in droves with the first sip. That carries through the creamy, mouth-filling mid-palate which also showcases more prominent spice notes. The finish has hints of vanilla, apple pie spices and a light minerality.

This Chardonnay has excellent varietal character, and good acidity. It features enough oak to offer significant complexity in it's price cetegory but it's never obtrusive to the fruit. This wine tastes incredibly fresh and springlike.

For $20 this wine is an excellent value. It puts me in a mind of some of the Chardonnays I enjoy year in and year out. With 3,500 cases out there it should be fairly easy to locate. If you like well made Chardonnay, that actually tastes like Chardonnay, with good complexity, this is definitely one to try.

Coming tomorrow: Clos La Chance, Buff-Bellied Zinfandel

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Edna Valley Vineyard - 2006 Chardonnay

Edna Valley Vineyard was founded in 1980. It's a partnership between Chalone Wine Group (now part of Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines) and The Niven Family who planted the Paragon Estate Vineyard in the early 1970's. They're a Central Coast pioneer, having established themselves as the first producer in the area of estate-grown Chardonnay. Edna Valley Vineyard Winemaker Harry Hansen brought his own impressive resume Chardonnaywith him. He had previously worked at Gloria Ferrer in Sonoma as associate winemaker. The 2006 Edna Valley Vineyard Chardonnay spent 8 months in oak, 33% of it new. 320,000 cases of this wine were produced and it retails for approximately $15. A quick look at wine-searcher shows that it can be found pretty widely for right around $12.

Chardonnay is one of the wines I'm personally the most finnicky about. I tend to love them when they're made in a Chablis style with moderate use of oak. However when they're made in what has become known as the California style and over-oaked I generally don't. The Edna Valley Vineyard 2006 Chardonnay makes judicious use of oak. There's enough oak to add complexity, but not so much to detract from the fruit.

The nose of the Edna Valley Vineyard Chardonnay has honeysuckle, pineapple and citrus elements. The first sip reveals vanilla, peach and terrific spiciness that leads to a rich mouthfilling mid-palate. The finish reveals some minerality and additional citrus notes. The wine is well balanced with good acidity. It drinks nicely on it's own but will work well with a pretty wide array of foods. Roast chicken, soft cheeses and entree salads are just a handful of options that will match up nicely with this Chardonnay.

Considering how much of this wine was produced it's impressive how much true varietal character it displays. When you take into account it's wide availability, at a relatively low price, the Edna Valley Vineyard Chardonnay is a bargain.

 Coming Tomorrow: Edna Valley Vineyard Pinot Noir

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Brutocao Cellars - 2005 Chardonnay Riserva d' Argento

Back in January at the Sun Wine Fest I tasted many excellent wines. Several of the standout wineries of the weekend were from areas in California that aren't always on the tip of peoples tongues when they think of picking up a  bottle. In this case, the winery is Brutocao Cellars and the area is Mendocino County. Often times wines from these areas provide better values than the better known regions. During this week I'll post my impressions of six releases from Brutocao Cellars. In addition to that I'll touch on some other aspects of what Brutocao Cellars is all about. 425 cases of the 2005 Chardonnay Riserva d'  Argento were produced. It was barrel fermented in French Oak. The retail Chardonnayprice is $25.

Tropical fruit, vanilla spice and an undercurrent of green apple are all present in the nose of this 2005 Chardonnay. The first sip reveals creme brulee notes that are underpinned by toasty oak that is ever-present but does not detract from the fruit. The mod-palate is rich, creamy and opulent. The Risvera d' Argento's finish is long and lingering. Spice notes dance on the tongue along with some mineral notes at the wine comes to a close.

My taste in Chardonnay runs towards those made in a Chablis style. I'm happy to say that this release from Brutocao Cellars reminds me more of the wines of Chablis than it does typical California Chardonnay. The Brutocao 2005 Riserva d' Argento Chardonnay does have plenty of oak on it. But it's used in a restrained manner that enhances the fruit rather than overwhelming it. As such it's a wine that's made to serve with food. Oven roasted chicken would be a perfect accompaniment.

While there are many Chardonnays you could buy in the $25 price-range, I have only found a handful that offer the sort of complexity this one does in that price bracket. That makes this a wine that is well worth it's retail price. I'd bet it has a couple more years of enjoyable drinking ahead of it.

Up Next: Brutocao Cellars Zinfandel

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Schug Carneros Estate - 2006 Chardonnays

Today I'm looking at a couple of 2006 Chardonnays from Schug, the Sonoma Coast and the Carneros. In addition to those they also make a third, more limited, Chardonnay known as Carneros Heritage Reserve. Walter Schug whose vision has guided the winery since he founded it in 1980, learned wine-making in his native Germany. This experience strikes me as particularly relevant and helpful when making varietals such as Chardonnay or Pinot Noir that love cooler wine growing regions. The Sonoma Coast Chardonnay is Schug's entry level offering of this varietal. The retail Sonoma Coastprice is $22. With just over 7,300 cases made, this is Schug's second largest production. The nose reveals a lot of citrus and a hint of spice. The first sip shows more spice and citrus notes along with peach and pear characteristics that carry through the mid-palate. The finish of the Sonoma Coast Chardonnay has white pepper and little touch of candied apple. This is a medium bodied wine with firm acidity. Oak is detectable and adds to the spice characteristics throughout, but never overshadows the fruit.  I found this wine to be a great complement for a classic panini with tomato, basil and fresh mozzarella. Most lighter fare will be a good match for it as well. It's also light and refreshing enough to enjoy on it's own.

It's not always easy to find well made Chardonnay from California in this price range. The Schug Sonoma Coast Chardonnay is a winner. What pleases me most about it is it's true varietal character. This is a wine made to drink in it's youth.

Carneros ChardonnayThe Carneros Chardonnay comes mostly (96%) from Carneros fruit. Half of that is from the Schug Estate. In a lot of ways the Carneros Chardonnay is a bird of a different feather. Even from the vanilla in the nose it reveals the additional use of oak which lends itself to greater complexity. Pear and spice present themselves in the first sip. The mid-palate has a buttery apple pie note accompanied by significant mulled spice characteristics. The finish is clean, crisp and quite refreshing. This is a bigger, richer wine with a rounder mouth-feel than the Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. Still the use of oak is restrained and never over the top. Sufficient acidity is present to make this a well balanced effort. More than the Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, this one seems to need food.

Just over 5,000 cases of the 2006 Schug Carneros Chardonnay were produced and it retails for $26. Wine-Searcher shows that it's available pretty widely for closer to $22. For either price you're getting a good amount of complexity and a well crafted wine for your money. I would expect this wine to drink well for a couple of years.

Both Chardonnays from Schugare well made wines that are also fairly priced. Beyond that it's a question of taste. My personal preference was for the Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. It has an easy drink-ability about it, which for me makes it a more than solid "everyday drinker." It's a workhorse Chardonnay, which seems to be it's intent. The Carneros Chardonnay offers more complexity, structure and room for contemplation. Also a solid bet, especially, paired appropriately with food. It's a Chardonnay you'll enjoy if you want to get a little "dressed up" for dinner.

Up Next: Schug Carneros Estate 2005 Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

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Dreyer Sonoma Chardonnay - 2005

The 2005 Dreyer Sonoma Chardonnay is a value priced bottling. It Comes in at around Dreyer Sonoma$12.00 a bottle. Often it's hard to find drinkable chardonnay in this price category. Most often if I want an enjoyable Chardonnay in this price range I look towards South America. This one leads with a nose of baked apple and vanilla. The apple is particularly strong and really provides a heady scent. There's a touch of citrus on the first sip which leads into the acidity the wine does have. The mid palate features more baked apple, and some mulled spices alongside subtle guava notes. The finish has a fair amount of toasty oak on it, though not so much to overwhelm. For a wine in this price range the finish is pretty decent. Each taste drew me in for another sip which is always a good sign. I found this wine to drink well on it's own. Paired with grilled chicken the vanilla and spice notes came out in greater prominence.

For the price the Dreyer Chardonnay is a decent value. It does provide true Chardonnay character and the oak doesn't overwhelm as can so often be the case with California Chardonnay in this price range.