A Vertical Tasting of Swanson Vineyards Salon Chardonnay, Vintages 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008

Once upon a time I was ready to give up on New World Chardonnay. More than anything though it was really California Chardonnay I’d grown weary of. So many of the wines I tasted were overburdened with oak to the point of blunting the fruit. The litany of jokes made in tasting rooms and elsewhere about these wines could easily fill a book. I’m not sure anyone is printing joke books these days. If they were though there’s lots of material. It got to the point where I found it tiresome to even try new Chardonnays. Many of them, were high scored, and well regarded, yet there was a seeming avalanche of sawdust in my mouth. So I drank mostly Chablis, when I had the chance, and when I felt adventurous I’d try one from California. Then one incredibly fateful day I made my first visit to Swanson Vineyards Salon in Napa Valley. While I liked the first wine they poured Rosato, I was dubious when then Salonnier Shawn Larue said the next wine was Chardonnay. I must have made a face because Shawn assured me that what I was about to taste was not a typical over oaked wine that was in fashion for many years. I thanked him for mentioning it but inside I thought “we’ll see about that.” From the first sip the Swanson Chardonnay was nothing short of a revelation. The fruit starred gloriously and there was complexity to spare. “That’s amazing,” were the first words I recall uttering after the very first sips I ever took of Swanson Chardonnay. More than anything it reminded me of a fine Chablis. I  Joined their wine club soon after in large part so I could have guaranteed access to the Chardonnay. It’s only made in small quantities and if there’s any left after the wine club gets their allotment you can get some through the Salon. I wasn’t taking that chance. I’ve come to love the Swanson portfolio of wines in general. The Chardonnay though, for my money, there isn’t a finer one in Napa Valley.

I was recently going through my cellar and realized I had four vintages of the Chardonnay on hand. It was obvious that the only thing to do was invite some friends over for a vertical tasting. What follows are some of my impressions about these wines and how they’re currently tasting.

The Swanson Chardonnay is available through the Salon in Rutherford. The suggested retail price for the current vintage (2008) is $36.

Swanson Vineyards 2005 Salon Chardonnay – This wine has changed remarkably in the time since it was released. Much of the fruit has dropped off at this point. The spice and mineral elements which were always present have pushed to the fore front. This now lean, mineral laden wine turned out to be the favorite of most during the vertical tasting. A nice showcase for the potential longevity of well made, balanced, white wines.

Swanson Vineyards 2006 Salon Chardonnay – This wine is definitely transitioning at this time. The spice component is present as are hints of minerals. However they’re not as prominent as on the 2005. There is more fruit present right now. I’ll be curious to see how it develops further over the next year and if it gets to the second life the 2005 is currently enjoying.

Swanson Vineyards 2007 Salon Chardonnay – Of the four vintages this is probably the one drinking at closest to its peak efficacy right now. It’s all about personal taste of course but the 2007 still now has all the glorious fruit this Chardonnay features in its youth. There’s plenty of complexity as well with spice, mineral notes and the great length this wine traditionally features. An excellent vintage of a very consistent wine in its peak drinking window.

Swanson Vineyards 2008 Salon Chardonnay – This is the current vintage of this wine, released this past August. Not surprisingly this vintage currently has the biggest fruit of the bunch. Gentle hints of butter are present along with the classic spice elements. Mineral notes are just starting to eek out of this wine and I suspect they’ll become much more prominent over time. While it’s delicious now, history tells me that to my taste I’m going to like this wine even more in about 5-6 months.

Vertical tastings can be fascinating and instructive. This one was no different. While everyone had their favorites, for a variety of reasons, there was some consensus. Regardless of how much the older vintages have evolved, the house style, we agreed was evident throughout. While age and of course vintage variation play a strong role, the consistent quality of the Swanson Salon Chardonnay from year to year was on display.

So the moral of the story here is two-fold. First of all if you like a varietal, don’t give up on it if you run across some examples you don’t like. You may eventually find one you love. The tide may also shift as it has with California Chardonnay. Of course the oak laden butter bombs are still out there. Thankfully though there are less then of them than before. The other part of the story? If you like excellent Chardonnay, that has fruit, complexity, and a good bit of longevity, do what you have to and get your hands on a bottle of Swanson Salon Chardonnay.

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Valentin Bianchi - 2008 Elsa Chardonnay / 2008 Elsa Malbec / 2008 Elsa Cabernet Sauvignon

It’s good to have some go to things in life. When it comes to wine there are some producers that I look to for a variety of reasons. Sometimes it’s simply quality. Other times it’s value and availability. Valentin Bianchi from Argentina scores for me on all three counts and then some. They have several tiers of wine, all of which are interesting and fairly priced for what they provide. And their wines are available across the country in a wide variety of retailers. Today I’m going to look at three wines I enjoyed in their lowest priced tier. The Elsa wines are named after the wife of their founder, who is also the Grandmother of the current owners. The vineyards surround the house she lived in. First up is the Valentin Bianchi 2008 Elsa Chardonnay. This selection is produced using estate fruit from San Rafael Mendoza vineyards. In addition to Chardonnay (90%), Semillon (10%) is also blended in. During fermentation in stainless steel, French oak staves were used to add complexity. 2,000 cases of this wine were imported and the suggested retail price is $8.99.

Pineapple, Meyer lemon and white peach aromas burst forth from the evocative nose of this Chardonnay. Mango, guava and lots of golden delicious apple notes are all part of the fresh and appealing palate. Apple pie crust, lemon custard, vanilla and speckles of white pepper make up the medium length finish of this Chardonnay. Good acidity balances things out.

What I like about this Chardonnay is that it puts its best fruit forward. This is a fresh, lively wine meant to enjoy in its youth. While the small amount of oak used added some complexity it doesn’t detract from what is a very fruit driven offering.

The second wine is the Valentin Bianchi 2008 Elsa Malbec. Fruit for this offering was sourced at the same Estate vineyard in Mendoza as the Chardonnay. This selection is 100% Malbec. This wine saw minimal oak aging. 15,000 cases of this wine were imported and the suggested retail price is $8.99.

Plum, blueberry, vanilla and floral notes are all part of the slightly jam influenced nose of this Malbec. The palate also shows some jam fruit characteristics with red and black berry fruit intertwining. Black raspberry, blackberry and strawberry are of particular note. A layer of vanilla underpins these along with touches of orange peel. Kalamata olive, touches of smoke, and white pepper highlight the medium length finish. This Malbec has sufficient acidity.

Giving this wine 30 minutes of air really helps it open up and allows its flavors to pop. I like the consistency this wine has shown from vintage to vintage. This is a great starter Malbec and an affordable one for everyday drinking.

The last wine today is the Valentin Bianchi 2008 Elsa Cabernet Sauvignon. Fruit for this wine was also sourced at the Family’s original home vineyards. This selection is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine had minimal oak aging. 10,000 cases of this 2008 vintage were imported and the suggested retail price is $8.99.

Black fruit such as raspberry, blackberry and blueberry lead the nose of this wine along with hints of vanilla and cedar. Dark, juicy berry fruit tells the story of this wines mid-palate. Black pepper and additional vanilla emerges on the finish. This wine has nice structure and good acidity.

This 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon drinks well off the bat. That said, an hour of air really exposes all of its charms. This is a fruity, fresh Cabernet meant to be drunk in it’s youth. It’ll pair well with a burger and drinks nicely on its own too.

All three of these Elsa wines represent good values. While the suggested retail price is $8.99 you can certainly find them for less if you shop around. Each of these is a solid contender for everyday drinking. They’re also good bets to pick up a case of so you always have something affordable and dependable on hand.

Davis Bynum - 2007 Russian River Chardonnay / 2007 Russian River Pinot Noir

In 2007, in addition to increasing the Rodney Strong portfolio of wines under their Estate name, proprietor Tom Klein added longtime Sonoma County Winery Davis Bynum to the lineup. The history of Davis Bynum dates back to 1973. The goal then as now is to focus on Russian River Valley fruit. Today I’ll look at two of the current release Davis Bynum wines. These wines represent the first Davis Bynum releases under winemaker Gary Patzwald who was already working on some small production Rodney Strong wines. First up is the Davis Bynum 2007 Russian River Valley Chardonnay. The fruit for this wine is composed of four Chardonnay clones. This offering is 100% varietal and all Russian River Valley fruit. 75% of the wine went through malolactic. Barrel aging was accomplished over 11 months in French oak. 6,000 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $25.

Apple, spice and hints of toast waft gently from the nose of this 2007 Chardonnay. The palate features an explosive burst of pure fruit. Apple, pear, pineapple, mango and more arrive in wave after wave of lush, mouth filling flavor. Spices, mineral notes and hint of burnt caramel emerge on the lengthy finish. This wine has excellent acidity and will pair will pair well with creamy dishes, roast chicken and soft cheeses.

The second wine is the Davis Bynum 2007 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Fruit from five clones was used in crafting this wine. This offering is 100% Pinot Noir and all Russian River Valley fruit. Barrel aging occurred over 11 months in French oak. 6,500 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $35.

Black cherry, wild strawberry and vanilla cream aromas emerge prominently from the nose of this 2007 Pinot Noir. Hints of raspberry along with mushroom and continued cherry and strawberry make up the balanced palate of this wine. The finish on this wine is lengthy and smooth with gently gripping tannins and excellent acidity. As with most well made, well balanced Pinot Noir, this wine will pair beautifully with a wide array of foods.

It had been several years since I’d had any wines from Davis Bynum. For a period of time they’d been a regular Russian River stop for me. For no reason in particular they fell off of my radar a bit at some point. So I was curious and eager to see what the Davis Bynum wines tasted like today. Particularly since the winery is in a second life cycle now under the Rodney Strong umbrella. I’m happy to report that these are quality wines that do a nice job showcasing lots of fruit and varietal character. Each is also a fine example of what these Burgundian grapes can achieve in Russian River Valley. Too often, in California especially, Pinot & Chardonnay are overwhelmed with oak. Both of these offerings have their fair share of oak on them but thankfully in these wines it enhances the fruit as it should. With 6,000 or so cases of each, these selections won’t be difficult to fine. If you like Russian River Chardonnay and/or Pinot Noir, here are a couple of solid bets to consider.

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Rodney Strong Vineyards - 2007 Chalk Hill Chardonnay / 2006 Alexander Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

Sonoma County’s Rodney Strong Vineyards is one of the wineries I’ve gone back to time and again for a look at current releases. In addition to being a consistent producer at a wide-ranging number of tiers, they’re wines are also extensively available throughout the country. My next few posts will look at six wines in their portfolio that I recently tasted and enjoyed. In addition to wines under the Rodney Strong Vineyards name I’ll also look at a few releases from one of their other labels. Today I’ll cover one of their Chardonnays and a Cabernet Sauvignon. First up is the Rodney Strong Vineyards 2007 Chalk Hill Chardonnay. This selection is produced using  fruit sourced from Chalk Hill. This wine is 100% Chardonnay. 97% of it underwent malolactic and was aged in French oak for 9 months.  The suggested retail price for this offering is $20.

Intermingling fruit aromas, particularly pear and apple burst from the nose of this Chardonnay along with vanilla and toasty oak notes. The orchard fruit theme continues throughout the palate where Macintosh apple and Asian pear notes are prominent and layered along with hints of crème fraîche, pie crust, and baker’s spices. This solid core of persistent fruit leads to a nice finish that shows off a flourish of lemon custard, wisps of smoke and a final echo of crème brûlée

The Chalk Hill Chardonnay does a nice job straddling the oak line. It has added complexity and spice characteristics that have been imparted from its time in barrel. Importantly though the oak never detracts from the fresh and lively fruit. This is a very solid Chardonnay in its price category, and a consistent one from vintage to vintage too.

The second wine I’m recommending today is the Rodney Strong Vineyards 2006 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is made from estate fruit. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (92%), Merlot (6%), and Petite Verdot (2%) are also blended in. Barrel aging was accomplished over 21 months in a combination of French and American oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is $25.

Black cherry, plum and hints of ash waft with conviction from the nose of this 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon. A back and forth tussle for your taste buds between red and black fruits occur throughout the rich and persistent palate. Dried cranberry, blackberry and continued plum notes are the most prominent. These lead to a lingering finished most notably marked by tobacco, earth, leather and a rich vein of mineral notes. A hit of sour cherry provides a final, memorable reference point. This wine has yielding tannins and good acidity.

For $25 (less if you shop wisely) this Cabernet Sauvignon provides good varietal and regional character. It’s also a fine wine to drink while your reserve Cabernets are gaining some bottle age. Much like the Chardonnay above this wine has been a consistent performer from vintage to vintage.

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Lucas & Lewellen Vineyards - 2007 Santa Barbara County Chardonnay

While discovering new wineries is terrific, I like to balance that with a look at releases from producers that I have found to be reliable over a period of time. Lucas & Lewellen is one such Winery. I became aware of them a few years ago when some selections from their sister label Mandolina were featured over at woot.com. I've come to like not only their wines but also the value they represent. Today I'll look at one of their current releases of Chardonnay. This fruit for the 2007 Lucas & Lewellen Chardonnay is sourced from their Goodchild and Los Alamos Vineyards. Both of these are located within the Santa Barbara County AVA. This selection is 100% Chardonnay. Fermentation was accomplished in stainless steel. 1,002 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $16.

A combination of orchard and stone fruit aromas waft from the nose of this Chardonnay. Both pear and apple intermingle throughout the palate, with the pear notes leading the way. Hints of lemon pudding kick in about midway through and carry through the finish which is lengthy and also features baker's spice and a hint of white pepper. This wine has excellent acidity and will pair well with a variety of foods. A cheese and fruit plate would be a particularly excellent match.

If you've read this site for any length of time you've probably gotten the drift that over-oaked Chardonnay is something I have particular disdain for. I don't mind some oak, but I'm always wary when approaching a Chardonnay. No need for concern here as this offering is made in Stainless Steel. The fruit here is so fresh, so gloriously sumptuous that I'm glad there was nothing in the way to detract from those wonderful flavors. This is another excellent value from Lucas & Lewellen, once again they over deliver on price point.

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Dinner With Kim Longbottom & Renae Hirsch of Henry's Drive

Last week I had the opportunity to have dinner with Kim Longbottom and Renae Hirsch of Henry's Drive. This Padthaway Australia producer has a vast repertoire of wines; some appropriate for everyday drinking and others for special occasions, gift giving or cellaring. I'd met Renae last year (read that report here) and at the time she had only been on the job a short while. With this followup meeting I was looking forward to learning how things had progressed for her at Henry's Drive. And of course I was also happy to be meeting proprietor Kim Longbottom. The first two wines we tasted were both Chardonnay based. First up was The Postmistress Blanc de Blanc. This sparkling wine is 100% Chardonnay and when it makes it to the US sometime in 2010 it will retail for $19.99. I found this to be a tasty lighter style of sparkling wine, one I'd consume with Brunch foods perhaps. The second wine was Morse Code Chardonnay. This is one of two varietal entries that will be part of the under $10 tier for Henry's Drive. It's fair to think of it and the Morse Code Shiraz as single varietal counterparts to the two Pillar Box wines. I really enjoyed the clean, fresh, fruit forward style of this 2009 Chardonnay. For a suggested retail of $8.99, this will make a solid choice for everyday drinking when it's released here in the next month or so.

Pillar Box Red is the first wine from Henry's Drive I became aware of several years back. I find that it's been a consistent offering in the value category and also a popular one. In speaking to Renae she indicated that a wine like Pillar Box Red which many people drink and are aware of is one of the selections she feels a bit more pressure in producing since it's had a longstanding reputation that preceded her becoming winemaker. No question to me that she's achieved her goal as the overall quality of this wine and its flavor profile have remained true to the course.

Two wines stood out as overall favorites for me. The Trial of John Montford was one. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (90%) and Cabernet Franc (10%), leads with a big nose of leather, berry and vanilla. Cherry and earth are amongst the dominat notes through the palate and they lead to a lengthy and layered finish. This 2007 selection has a suggested retail price of $29.99. While I think it's quite tasty now, a few years in the cellar will really help it come together into an even nicer package.

The 2007 Dead Letter Office Shiraz was my other favorite of the evening. This selection blends Shiraz from McLaren Vale (67%) in with the Padthaway (33%) fruit. Of the higher end reds in the Henry's Drive portfolio this is the wine that evolved the most dramatically in the glass throughout the evening. The combination of fruit from two sources lends itself to creating a very balanced Shiraz with a multitude of layers. The suggested retail price on this wine is $26.99

In all we went through 10 selections. Beside the wines already mentioned we tasted Pillar Box Reserve, Henry's Drive Shiraz, Henry's Drive Reserve Shiraz, and the Parson's Flat Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon. In speaking with Kim throughout the evening it was clear that the goal is to create full flavored wines with balance. This is a goal that in my opinion they're reaching. Certainly I have my favorites as I indicated above, but the house style in general is one that I have an overall fondness for. This is an Australian producer I gladly recommend; regardless of your wine budget there are Henry's Drive offerings you can find room for.

One of the other pleasures of meeting Kim was getting to hear details I wasn't familiar with about their use of Postal Service terms, names and legends for their wines. Having a story is one thing, but when it's backed by historical fact and reality it adds something to the intrigue of a bottle of wine.

By all means if you have the unique opportunity to spend some time, and taste wine, with these charming ladies I highly recommend it. Some even say they're a couple of Saucy Aussies.

Imported by Quintessential Wines.

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Cameron Hughes - 2007 Lot 101 Russian River Chardonnay

Certain regions and varietals generally go together so perfectly that the combination of the two can induce a bit of excitement. Russian River Chardonnay is one such duo. Of course that’s not to say that every Russian River Chardonnay is terrific, far from it. But there are tons of well made examples and enough tremendous ones to inspire a bit of confidence when approaching them. I’m going to look at one today from Négociant Cameron Hughes. I’ve been very impressed with both his wines and his overall ability to source such high quality and sell it for good prices. In some cases the deals are just outrageous. The 2007 Cameron Hughes Lot 101 Russian River Valley Chardonnay is of course 100% varietal. 50% of the juice was fermented in new oak. 8,000 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $14.

Granny Smith apple, Anjou pear and fig aromas fill the nose of this Chardonnay. Both pear and apple continue throughout the palate which is gentle, layered and complex; rewarding attention with ever increasing nuances that include ginger, cloves, nutmeg and tart apple. The finish is loaded with mineral notes and reminders of apple pie crust. This wine has excellent structure and absolutely tremendous acidity.

If you buy this wine for $14, what you’re doing is essentially stealing it. This Chardonnay is easily worth twice the price. When you drink it, avoid the temptation to over chill; many of its layers emerged a couple of degrees warmer than one would normally drink this varietal. The bottom line here is that Cameron Hughes continues to deliver one standout deal after another. Don’t hesitate to purchase wine with his name on it, he hits them out of the park with consistency.

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V-Twin Vineyards - 2007 River Run Chardonnay

After tasting a couple of Zinfandels from V-Twin Vineyards it’s time to see what they can do with Chardonnay. I found the Zinfandels quite tasty and was hopeful that the Chardonnay would follow suit. The 2007 V-Twin Vineyards River Run Chardonnay is produced from fruit sourced in Mendocino. This wine saw no oak treatment. A mere 200 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $15.

Over-oaked Chardonnay is the bane of my existence. Perhaps that’s a bit strong, but you get the idea. I don’t mind some oak but when it’s over the top as it too often is it can ruin some perfectly tasty juice. So I was anticipating tasting this Chardonnay from V-Twin for a couple of reasons. For one I really liked the Zins, and secondly it’s totally un-oaked.

Pineapple, mango and hints of ginger are all part of the fresh and expressive nose of this Chardonnay. From the first sip this wine just hits you with a blast of pure, unadulterated, juicy fruit. That fruit is joined by a tremendous host of spice and mineral notes which pick up mid-palate and carry through the finish which also has touches of cream and Anjou pear. As with the V-Twin Zinfandels this wine will be a good complement with food but doesn’t require it to be enjoyed. This is an excellent white wine to pair with a cheese board presentation.

What I like best about this Chardonnay is the pure expression of fruit it represents. Each of the wines from V-Twin Vineyards has that in common, the fruit shines through. Stay tuned as I look at a couple of wines from Del Fava next week. This is the reserve tier that Scott and his wife have launched in conjunction with V-Twin Vineyards.

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Urraca - 2007 Chardonnay

Each week I taste a lot of different wines. The quality, intent and price ranges of these differ greatly. I’m always interested in what the producer’s intent was when making a wine. Are they looking to make the type of value you can afford to drink everyday and find anywhere for $10? Are they looking to create a wine that might get high scores? Are they looking to just make great wine? After considering intent the other thing I look for in wines that I write about are selections that speak to me. Several months ago I had the Urraca wines at a large scale tasting in Manhattan. They left a real impression and I thought about them from time to time. So much so that I decided I need to retry them and see if they were as impressive as I recalled. Over the next couple of days I’ll look at three selections. I’ll start today with their Chardonnay. The 2007 Urraca Chardonnay is produced from grapes sourced in their own 5 acre Chardonnay Vineyard. This selection is 100% Chardonnay. Oak aging was accomplished over a 6 month period in French barrels. Just 250 cases of this offering were produced. The suggested retail price is $37.

The nose of this Argentine Chardonnay is an apple orchard with touches of cedar and vanilla underscoring the lively fruit aromas. Continued apple, pear, and zesty lemon notes are prominent throughout the palate. In the mid-palate hints of smokiness kick in and continue through finish which also features significant mineral notes and touches of spice. This wine has excellent acidity and good structure.

What impresses me most about this Chardonnay is its balance. The oak treatment adds complexity but never comes close to obtruding the fresh fruit flavors. This wine is an absolutely gorgeous expression of Chardonnay. There are a lot of fine Chardonnays coming out of Argentina, many of them in the value category. This example from Urraca is a step up from most of them in complexity, age-ability, and yes price. However the quality of this wine warrants the price. If a wine of this quality had a Burgundy or Napa appellation on it the cost would be closer to $60. Therefore this Chardonnay fulfills it's intent of being a world class offering. Please stay tuned as I look at two more wines from Urraca this week!

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Bodega Septima - 2008 Chardonnay

Bodega Septima is a Mendoza, Argentina based winery. This region of Argentina is the one most familiar to US consumers at this time. The winery has a history that dates back 10 years. In 1999 they were founded by the Codorníu Group who have winery proprties in several distinct, world-wide locations. Originally starting with 470 acres, they now have well over 800 acres in Mendoza. The stated goal of Bodega Septima is to produce wines that take into account both Argentine tradition and modern global techniques. Today I'll look at their current release of Chardonnay. The 2008 Bodega Septima Chardonnay is produced from grapes in their Luján de Cuyo vineyard; 3,900 feet above sea level. This offering is 100% Chardonnay. This wine was aged in a combination of French and American oak barrels. Alcohol for this selection is a modest 13.3%. The suggested retail price for this South American Chardonnay is $12.

This 2008 wine has a fresh, light yellow hue. Green apple and anjou pear emerges in the nose along with a touch of vanilla bean. Pear and apples flavors continue through the palate, joined by pineapple and hints of additional tropical flavors. Most interesting is a light later of citrus (lemon custard comes to mind) that starts mid-palate and continues through the finish. hints of creaminess also echo through the finish along with subtle nutmeg spice. This Chardonnay has very good acidity. Chicken Piccata would be an excellent match for this offering, which is also quite tasty on its own.

Fresh fruit flavors burst out of this wine, which is what impresses me most. It complements summer nicely. If you happen to drink it in cool weather it's going to make you wish for warmer days.  This wine is most commonly available for right around $10; another example of the many values coming from Argentina,

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Martin Ray - 2007 Santa Cruz Mountains Reserve Chardonnay

Chardonnay is planted all over the world. In California most wine making regions grow it. Every grape has the places it really flourishes. When we're talking about California Chardonnay there are a couple that seem obvious. Carneros is the first one that comes to mind for me. Lately though I've been going out of my way to try Chardonnay grown in the Santa Cruz Mountains. A nice handful of Chardonnays I've had from there, have been terrific. Today I'll look at a selection from Martin Ray. The Martin Ray 2007 Reserve Chardonnay is sourced from Bald Mountain Vineyard on the Santa Cruz Mountains. This offering is 100% Chardonnay. Aging was accomplished with 10 months in French Oak barrels. 540 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $25.

The nose of this wine is particularly big and impressive. It bursts from the glass and really provides a welcoming introduction. Apricot, light mango, vanilla and toasty oak are the most prominent aromas. What's impressive throughout, but most obvious in the mid-palate is an incredible purity of fruit.  Mango and apricot continue along with peach, nectarine and spice notes such as nutmeg and white pepper. The finish is outstanding and lingers, featuring additional spice and a fair sized burst of cream, butter and apple pie crust. This is a very well balanced Chardonnay with excellent acidity. A great match for four cheese Risotto, roasted chicken, or an entree salad.

What I like most about this Chardonnay is the nice complexity and layers of flavor it shows. Oak is relatively prominent, but never distracting. it frames the fruit but doesn't detract from all that delicious mountain grown flavor. This wine has the structure, balance and solid core of fruit which suggests it'll drink well for the next 3-5 years. A lovely expression of Chardonnay and  continued evidence of the fine wines coming from the Santa Cruz Mountains.

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Ravenswood - 2007 Vintners Blend Chardonnay

The Vintners Blend series from Ravenswood started with Zinfandel; not surprising for a Winery that is best known for that grape. They've since expanded and now make a number of Vintners Blend Wines. The intent is to provide everyday affordability, while maintaining varietal character and providing a well crafted wine. Today I'll look at the current release Chardonnay. The 2007 Ravenswood Vintners Blend Chardonnay is made from fruit sourced throughout California. 5% Muscat Canelli is blended in. This wine was aged in French oak; 25% of the barrels were new. The suggested retail price for this offering is $10.

Mango, apple and nutmeg characteristics are what jumped out at me in the nose of this Chardonnay, along with a hint of toasty oak. The palate features a solid and balanced core of orchard fruit notes. Apple pie spice and buttery crust notes underscore the fruit and provide a nice counter balance. Mineral notes emerge in the finish, joined by continued spice elements. Everything is kept in check by sufficient acidity. This wine drinks nicely on its own and will pair well with lighter foods.

This Chardonnay leans towards the oaky side but it never goes all the way there maintaining that all important balance that makes it enjoyable to drink. In its price point it offers good value. The 2007 Vintners Blend should please people on both sides of the Chardonnay/oak debate as it threads the needle well. Another solid entry in the Vintners Blend series that fulfills its intent.

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Cameron Hughes - 2007 Lot 87 Chardonnay

There are numerous ways that wine gets bottled and ends up on your local shelf. Most people envision a system where one winery grows the grapes, crushes them, ages them, bottles, and sells them. Of course that's the way a lot of wines, particularly premium ones, get to your shelf. But of course there are other ways. In Europe, France especially there are many négociant's. A négociant purchases grapes from other growers and sells them under his or her, own label. Cameron Hughes is a California based négociant. And while that is his base of operations, he sources lots of wine from numerous regions, the world over.  Most often a well regarded winery or grower might be selling a finished product which Cameron Hughes Wine bottles or packages. Sometimes they take separate sources and blend them to come up with a unique and perhaps better wine. The goal in each case is to offer a superior product for significantly less than it would cost if it had the original producer or growers name.  There are many reasons someone might be selling wine instead of bottling it themselves. In a great vintage they might simply have more juice than they're prepared, or bonded to produce. Regardless of the reason Cameron Hughes Wine, and consumers are the beneficiaries.

Each offering from Cameron Hughes Wine is given a lot number. Over the next several weeks I'll look at a number of different lots. Today I'll look at one of their new release Chardonnays.

Cameron Hughes 2007 Lot 87 Chardonnay is a blend of Alexander Valley (75%) and Russian River (25%) fruit. 8,000 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $12. This selection is an example of the folks at Cameron Hughes blending two existing lots from the same producer to form their own blend.

The nose of this Chardonnay is filled with apple and pear notes; underscored by subtle vanilla tones. The palate is soft and lush, filled with mouth-filling, yet gentle fruit. The finish of this Chardonnay lingers with more pear notes, white pepper, nutmeg, and overall tingly spice notes. This is an impeccably balanced wine with terrific acidity. It'll drink nicely on its own, as well as pair well with a wide array of foods.

There are two things that are most obvious to me about this Chardonnay. First and foremost it's a terrific and pure expression of Sonoma County Chardonnay. Secondly this wine is an absolute steal. The $12 price tag is a joke. This wine is easily a $30 Chardonnay. If you love excellent, fruit driven Chardonnay from Sonoma County, buy a case of this and drink it all year.

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Seven Heavenly Chards - 2007 Chardonnay

I've been enjoying the releases from the Michael David Family of  Wines, for quite a few years now. I find that in general, the wines are accessible, widely available and tend to please a crowd. Seven Deadly Zins is the one I've had the most over the years. So I was quite curious to try Seven Heavenly Chards, which is its counterpart. The 2007 Seven Deadly Chards is 100% Lodi Chardonnay. This wine was aged in seven different types of French oak barrels for 10 months. 10,000 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $17.

Mango, pineapple and vanilla dominate the nose of this wine. They're underscored by a subtler, but present, touch of caramel. Throughout the fairly extravagant and creamy palate, guava, kiwi and pineapple notes are prominent. The finish features a hint of citrus peel along with nutmeg and white pepper. The oak treatment on this wine is apparent, but not obtrusive or over the top. Seven Heavenly Chards is a well balanced wine with firm acidic structure. This wine will be a good match for a creamy four cheese Risotto.

While this wine retails for $17, it's often available for under $15. At that price point, given the host of flavors it offers, it's going to satisfy the masses. This is a great choice to bring to a large gathering. This wine is consistent, in style and intent, with the other offerings from The Michael David Family of Wines that I've had in the past.

Starting Later this Week: 12 Days of Cabernet Franc!

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O'Brien Estate - Napa Valley - Romantic Trio

I wasn't very familiar with O'Brien Estate in Napa Valley until recently. However after reading about them, and more importantly their wines on-line, I was intrigued. So I set out to taste some of their offerings and see if the juice in the bottle lived up to all I'd read. They're a small (4,000 cases) Family Winery whose portfolio includes Chardonnay, Merlot and Seduction a Bordeaux style blend. They also make reserve or barrel selections of some of these offerings and have several gift pack options as well. Packaging isn't something I write about very often when it comes to wine. However the "Romantic Trio" I tasted this weekend is packed in such a beautiful and stunning manner that it demands mentioning. The trio is comprised of "Attraction" Chardonnay, "Romance of The Heart" Merlot and the aforementioned Bordeaux Blend called "Seduction." They are housed in a gorgeous lacquered wood box whose lettering has been branded in. Each set is numbered and signed by Bart O'Brien. Production is limited to 400 sets per Vintage year. The back of each bottle has a poem written by owner Bart O'Brien. Each varietal has its own poem. There is no question the set is a dazzling and dramatic presentation. The obvious question for me, would the wine in the bottle taste as good as the set looked? This set sells for $199 through their website.

The 2007 Attraction Chardonnay is sourced from Estate fruit on their Oak Knoll Vineyard. 50 Cases of Attraction were produced.

This Chardonnay opens with a nose of apple, vanilla and light toast notes. Throughout the palate stone and orchard fruit notes are plentiful along with some apple pie crust spices and a gentle touch of citrus peel. There is a purity of fruit throughout that is enhanced and complemented by oak aging. The finish of Attraction is impressively long with Crème Brule, caramel, cream, white pepper and just the right amount of toast.

There are two things that stand out to me about Attraction. First of all it's very much a California Chardonnay, but in the best sense of that description. Secondly the finish is complex and lingers forever. I'm very finicky when it comes to California Chardonnay; Attraction is one of the best I've tried in awhile.

The 2006 Romance of the Heart Merlot is also sourced from fruit on their Oak Knoll Vineyard. 75 cases of this wine were produced.

Cherry and pomegranate notes highlight the expressive nose of this Merlot. Taking the first sip, I found it to be tight. In decanting it I found that about an hour of air did the trick to let this wine blossom. Once it did open up this Merlot proved to filled with blueberry and blackberry through the rich, mouth-filling palate. Tannins are clearly present and firm, but certainly approachable. Chicory and earth notes came out in the finish which is above average in length with lingering spice notes. This wine, with its solid core of fruit is balanced by fine acidity. It's closer in structure to Cabernet Sauvignon then what many people unfortunately let pass for Merlot. This wine would be a perfect match for Filet Mignon topped with Gorgonzola.

I love Merlot but as I hinted above there's a boatload of sub-par ones out there. For years now my standard bearer for Estate Merlot in Napa has been the outstanding one Swanson Vineyards makes year after year. Romance of the Heart from O'Brien Estate is comparable in quality, varietal correctness and overall drinking enjoyment. And for me that says a lot. This is an impressive effort.

The 2005 Seduction Bordeaux style blend is composed of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc & Merlot. 2,500 cases of this wine were produced. This is the largest production in the O'Brien portfolio.

The nose of this blend leads with explosive cherry followed by cedar which is underscored by a touch of bramble. While I fould it slightly more immediately accessible than the Merlot, an hour in the decanter proved to be a revelation. Once it came to life, there is a solid core of berry and cassis notes through the palate. The finish features a multitude of earth notes that simply increase as it opens up. These are joined by some dark coffee and mineral notes in a long, lingering, lusty finish that beckons you back to the glass again and again for further sips.

What impressed me most about Seduction is how well it's balanced. The Cabernet Franc elevates the nose and the Merlot provides nice structure. While it's drinking well now I expect this blend to improve over the next 5 or so years and drink well for several after that.

All three wines in the Romantic Trio are well made and very enjoyable to drink. Along with the wonderful packaging this makes for an excellent gift, romantic or otherwise. I look forward to following the O'Brien Estate going forward and hope they continue to make wines as pure and compelling as these.

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Solaire by Robert Mondavi - 2007 Chardonnay

Over the many years since Robert Mondavi founded his groundbreaking Napa Valley Winery he acquired numerous other properties. These ranged in size, intent and vision. In the 90' that included purchasing prime parcels in the Central Coast of California. Among the results of this investment in the Central Coast are the Solaire Wines. I'll look at their Chardonnay today. I love this grape when it's well made and it leaves me cold, to say the least, when it's poorly made and/or over oaked. The 2007 Solaire by Robert Mondavi Chardonnay is 100% varietal. The fruit is from Santa Lucia Highlands. The wine was aged for 8 months in a combination of both used and new French and American oak. Alcohol is a modest 13.5% and the suggested retail price for this offering is $15.

Apple aromas, underscored by some lighter tropical notes such as pineapple fill the nose of this Chardonnay. A touch of vanilla wafts in gently as you take the first sip. More pineapple, lemon zest and a touch of grapefruit ride through the juicy palate. White pepper, apple pie crust spices and a touch of creaminess make up the finish. This wine is well balanced with generous acidity. While it drinks OK on its own, it'll work best with white meats or dishes that feature cream based sauces.

There is no question, what I like best about this Chardonnay from Solaire by Robert Mondavi is that it's varietally correct. The Chardonnay fruit shines through, enhanced, not encumbered by the oak treatment. Though it retails for $15, checking wine-searcher shows it's often available for closer to $11. In that price category this Chardonnay offers value.

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Ravenswood - 3 Sonoma County Wines

Intent is something that I always consider when tasting wine. What was the producer looking to do when they created the offerings in question? All wines are certainly not created equally and they should be looked at through the lens of their purpose. With that said today I'm looking at three releases from Ravensood in Sonoma. They're best known for Zinfandel of course. The bevy of selections they offer in that category ranges from single vineyard offerings to selections made from fruit sourced state wide. The selections I'm covering today are part of their County series. First up is the 2006 Sonoma County Chardonnay. This wine is 97% Chardonnay and 3% Muscat. It was aged for 12 months in French oak, 40% of it was new. 25,000 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $15.

The nose of this Chardonnay is quite expressive, showing pineapple, vanilla, hazelnut and hints of spice.The palate is loaded with apple and pear notes along with an underlying touch of citrus peel. The finish features apple pie crust notes, lots of nutmeg, clove, allspice and a touch of creamy butter and toast. This is a clean, crisp wine with good acidity and nice balance. It shows fine varietal character and is well proportioned.

The 2006 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon is 95% varietal, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Merlot. This offering spent 22 months in French oak, 30% of it new. 14,000 cases of this Cabernet were produced and the suggested retail price is $15.

A touch of eucalyptus and cassis underscore a nose filled with rich berry fruit aromas. The palate is filled with a solid core of many of those same berry fruit elements. Black and red cherry notes dominate and are accompanied by vanilla spice notes. Copious black tea, earth, bramble, allspice, and star anise emerge and star in the finish which is more than lengthy enough for the price range of this wine. This wine has firm but approachable tannins and good acidity.

The last wine today is the 2005 Sonoma County Syrah. This wine is 87% Syrah, 5% Grenache, 5% Carignane, and 3% Viognier. The wine spent between 20 and 24 months in French oak, 30% of it new. 11,000 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $15.

Plum and boysenberry notes dominate the nose of this Syrah along with lighter but present cedar and vanilla notes. Berry fruit is accompanied by black tea, white pepper  and dusty baker's chocolate throughout the palate. Bramble, continued berry fruit along with earth and spice notes make up a lingering finish. This wine has more in common style-wise with the of world Syrah than most new world Syrah.

What I like about these three wines from Ravenswood is that they each provide good varietal character as well as balance and proportion. They're well made wines that sell for a reasonable price. While the suggested retail price for each of these is $15, they are often available for closer to $11. For that price these are fine for everyday drinking. The Cabernet Sauvignon seems to have the legs for some aging. It should improve in the short term and drink well for at least 5 or 6 years after that. A pretty good achievement for an everyday, widely available wine.

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Barra of Mendocino - 2006 Chardonnay

A  couple of months back I tasted a Zinfandel from Barra of Mendocino. It was my first experience with their wines. I knew immediately it wouldn't  be my last. After tasting well over 50 Zinfandels in a short period of time, the modestly priced selection from Barra emerged as one of my favorites. Over the next couple of days I'll look at three more releases from this family winery. Their current release of Chardonnay will be the first. The Barra of Mendocino 2006 Chardonnay is 100% varietal. 280 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $18.

Dueling apple and pear notes underscored by vanilla fill the nose of this aromatic Chardonnay. Throughout the palate this wine is soft and lush. Orchard fruit notes are prominent along with spice characteristics that all come together towards the middle for a striking reminder of apple pie. The finish features more abundant spices that bring fruitcake to mind as well as toast, mineral and a richness that builds as this Chardonnay lingers quite awhile. Excellent acidity and good balance make this wine a good selection to pair with lighter foods or medium strength cheeses. It also drinks quite nicely on its own.

This Chardonnay from Barra of Mendocino hits my sweet spot for the varietal. It's full of fruit and spice notes. The oak is clearly present and adds complexity but never detracts from all of the fresh flavors. This wine is a clear bargain. It offers much more complexity and charm than the average Chardonnay in its price range. Stay tuned for looks at their current Pinot Noir and Petite Sirah releases.

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Rosenblum - 2007 Vintner's Cuvee Chardonnay

While it would be great to drink high end wines everyday that's simply not the reality for most people. The majority are looking for bargains on the shelves, or at the very least a reasonable value for their everyday drinking dollar. Today and tomorrow I'll look at two modestly priced wines from Rosenblum Cellars and see if they get the job done. First up is a Chardonnay. The 2007 Vintner's Cuvee Chardonnay from Rosenblum is 100% varietal. The fruit was sourced from vineyard sites throughout the state. It was aged in a combination of 60 gallon French and American oak barrels. The suggested retail price for this wine is $12.

Chardonnay is one of the varietals I'm personally most finicky about. Unfortunately the world is flooded with a sea of mediocre Chardonnay. Some of them are so over oaked I swear wood chips cling to the side of the glass. When they're great though, they can really speak to me.

This wine from Rosenblum isn't meant to set the world on fire and blow people away. The intent appears to be providing a widely available quality wine that people can afford to drink any night of the week. If that's the case, Rosenblum succeeds. This Chardonnay leads with a nose full of apple notes, underpinned by vanilla. The palate has crème brulee and apple pie crust notes. Spice and mineral notes along with some restrained toasty oak emerge in the finish.

The Rosenblum Vintner's Cuvee shows a fair amount of varietal character and is made in a crisp, clean style. If you're looking for any everyday Chardonnay that's often available for $10 or less, here's one worth trying. If this wine stays near as consistent as their Vintner's Cuvee Zinfandel has been over the years it'll be one to keep in mind.

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Wild Horse Winery - 2006 Chardonnay

Wild Horse Winery in Paso Robles has a 25 year history of wine-making. That's well above average for a region that has been growing steadily in the last decade. They make five varietal wines in the "Wild Horse" category or designation. Today I'll look at their 2006 Chardonnay. The 2006 Wild Horse Chardonnay is mostly varietal with a small amount of Viognier blended in. The wine was aged in a combination of French, American and Hungarian oak with 25% of it being new. The suggested retail price for this wine is $16.

Pear, apple and nutmeg spice fill this Chardonnays nose. From the first sip forward good apple characteristics dominate the palate along with subtler but present Asian pear underpinning it. Vanilla notes emerges in the mid-palate along with a touch of tart granny smith apple. Baked apple, butter and general pie crust spice notes emerge on the finish and linger along with mineral characteristics that close things out. This wine sips well on it's own and will also be a match for a host of chicken dishes as well as pastas with cream based sauces.

While this wine retails at $16 it's generally available for a couple of dollars less. For that price, this is a solid fruit driven Chardonnay with enough complexity and varietal character to make it interesting. The new oak makes it's presence known a bit on the finish but doesn't detract from the bold fruit flavors that dominate.

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