Gabe's 2011 Holiday Gift Guide

The 2011 Holiday Season is here and with it comes shopping and gift giving. There are all sorts of gifts to consider but I think wines and spirits are excellent gifts for those that appreciate such things. With that in mind I decided to compile a list of some items in that category. To make my list the items below had to meet some particular criteria: 1) it has to be something I heartily recommend. 2) It needs to be a good value. 3) It should be relatively easy to locate. 4) The list should take into account peoples various budget sizes. With that in mind here are 8 offerings that the wine and spirits lovers on your gift list will be happy to receive. The Lamberti Prosecco Veneto D.O.C. was made from fruit sourced at hillside vineyards throughout Treviso. This sparkling wine was produced utilizing the Charmat Method. This wine is widely available and has a suggested retail price of $13.99. This Prosecco has an effusive nose that shows off spice and fruits. Stone and citrus fruit flavors star through the palate along with loads of tingly spices. Brioche and hints of crumbled biscotti emerge on the finish which has good length. This wine shows off hints of sweetness and is a very appealing wine. It’ll work well on its own or paired with food. It would be a particularly nice choice for a Brunch. Sparkling wine generally makes people happy. Here’s a tasty choice that makes a perfect, modestly priced gift.

The Apaltagua 2009 Envero Carménère was produced from fruit sourced in the Apalta section of Chile’s Colchagua Valley. This is an estate vineyard 60 hectares in size. The 2009 vintage is a blend of Carménère (93%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (7%). Barrel aging took place over 12 months; an additional 6 months of bottle aging followed prior to release. This wine has a suggested retail price of $16.00. This Carménère has a fresh and lively nose. It shows off red and black fruit aromas as well as hints of eucalyptus. Juicy black currant and cherry flavors lead the palate as well a host of spices. This Carménère has a solid finish that lingers with sour black fruits and continued spices. Yielding tannins and firm acidity mark the structure and make this a terrific food wine. Carménère has been making inroads with US wine lovers over the last few years. This is a grape with lots of appeal to a wide array of folks. It’s ready to please fruits, as well as the fact that it’s still a discovery grape for some make this a particularly excellent gift for the newer wine lovers on your list.

The Sandeman Founder’s Reserve Port was produced from fruit sourced in the Douro Region of Portugal. Fermentation of this wine was stopped with the addition of chilled Brandy. This Port is aged for at least 5 years prior to release. It has a suggested retail price of $19. The Founder’s reserve has a deep red color, looking most like a young Vintage Port. The aromas it gives off lean towards red fruits laced with copious spices. Cherry flavors drive the palate and lead to a wonderful compote of dark, brooding berry flavors which are joined by plum pudding spices. Warming red fruits and loads of sweet dark chocolate mark the finish, which has tremendous length for the price point. The Founder’s Reserve is a great choice to drink while your Vintage Ports are aging. For its reasonable price tag it makes an affordable gift that offers lots of flavor and quality. This is an adaptable Port that’s delicious on its own, paired with desserts or used as the base of an inventive cocktail. It’s also currently available in decorative tins, perfect for gift giving.

The Biltmore Estate 2007 Blanc de Blancs Brut was produced using méthode champenoise. This offering is 100% Chardonnay, produced from fruit sourced in the Russian River Valley. After temperature controlled fermentation at cold conditions this wine underwent a secondary fermentation in bottle and aged for approximately 24 months prior to disgorging. This wine has a suggested retail price of $24.99. Lemon Zest and hints of brioche fill the nose of this 2007 Sparkling Wine. Apple, citrus and Bartlett pear flavors are all on display throughout the palate. Hints of ginger and flaky biscuits emerge on the finish which has nice length. This is a perfectly dry wine which is particularly well suited to pair with dinner. It’s fine on it’s own but excels when matched with the right dish. This is highly recommended for those who are open to New World Sparkling Wines.

The Frescobaldi 2006 Montesodi Riserva Chianti Rufina DOCG was produced from fruit sourced at the Castello di Nipozzano Pelago home estate. This vineyard sits roughly 1,300 feet above sea level. The vines have an average age of 16 years on them. This wine is 100% Sangiovese. Fermentation took place in temperature controlled stainless steel vats over 10 days. Aging took place in Barriques over 24 months; 6 months of bottle aging followed.  The Montesodi Riserva Chianti is only made in select vintages. This wine has a suggested retail price of $52. Violet, rose petal, and dried red fruit aromas fill the nose of this Chianti Riserva. Dried fruit flavors, cherry and blueberry in particular, star throughout the palate which has impressive depth and complexity. Layers of spice emerge and lead to the finish which shows off black tea, and hints of dusty chocolate. This wine has tremendous length, awesome acidity and terrific overall structure. This is everything you would want in top shelf Chianti. It’ll drink well for at least a decade, if it’s being consumed in the short term it should be decanted for a couple of hours for best results. This is a tremendous gift for the Gourmand in your life who likes to slave over a great meal and pair it with a fabulous wine.

The Rodney Strong 2008 Alexander’s Crown Cabernet Sauvignon was produced from fruit sourced in a single vineyard. It was from this vineyard in 1971 that Sonoma County’s first single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon was produced. This offering is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aging took place over 22 months in all French oak; 47% of the barrels were new. This wine has a suggested retail price of $75. Deep, dark berry aromas, toast and vanilla fill the bold nose of this Cabernet Sauvignon. The palate here is simply overrun with blackberry, black plum, raspberry and cherry flavors. Black pepper and clove spices also make their presence known. Roast espresso, sweet dark chocolate and additional spices emerge on the finish which has excellent length and remarkable depth. This is a big, bold, brash, spicy mouthful of Cabernet Sauvignon that does a tremendous job of showing off its Alexander Valley roots. While Alexander’s Crown is delicious now it’ll benefit from time in the bottle. Those with the patience to lay this down for a decade will be justly rewarded. If someone on your holiday gift list loves California Cabernet Sauvignon, you’ll have a hard time finding a more appropriate gift than this wine which is a jewel in the Rodney Strong Portfolio.

The Sandeman 30 Year old Tawny Port was aged in wooden casks. Over a period of time the fortified wine receives slow exposure to air which ages it and changes the color to the beautiful caramel typical of Tawny Ports Throughout their life the wines utilized are racked from time to time. As the name indicates the average age of the wines used to assemble this Tawny Port is 30. This Port has a suggested retail price of $99.99. Stone fruit in the form of Apricot underpinned by yellow peach lead the nose of this Port along with fruitcake spice and. Apricot flavors continue through the palate where they are dominant. Honey, hazelnut and almond characteristic are present along with white pepper spice. The impressively long finish shows off chamomile tea as well as a bit of caramel and continued spices and stone fruit flavors. This Port can certainly act as dessert all by itself. That said it works extremely well paired with food. A cheese course would be my top pick to match it with. In any case if there’s a Port lover in your life this would be a wonderful gift they will be sure to treasure.

It’s not often that I stray from the wine world here. However sometimes the mood or occasion calls for a beverage not made from grapes. Single Malt Scotch is one of the spirits that often has crossover appeal to those who like to sit and philosophize over their wines. So With that in mind here’s a look at a Single Malt that has really hit the spot for me on a number of occasions.

The Balvenie 12 Year DoubleWood is a Single Malt Scotch. During the aging process it’s moved from a traditional oak cask to a European Sherry cask. This Scotch sells for about $49.99. This Scotch has a great big nose that really develops over 15 or so minutes in the glass. Vanilla and hints of apricot are present. From the very first sip this Scotch distinguished itself by presenting lots of depth and a range of flavors. It is simultaneously fruity and spicy with a nice overall bite. The finish is above average in length and has rich, honeyed flavors and a bit of warmth in the final note. It’s apparent that the use of two types of wood for varying lengths of time really added to the complexity and finesse of this Scotch. If someone on your list is into Single Malt’s this offering from Balvenie is an excellent choice. It’s a distinct expression that stands apart from many of the 12 years Single Malts in its price range.

The selections above provide some excellent choices for gift giving this Holiday Season. I happily stand squarely behind them as good values in their respective categories as well as really tasty products that I enjoy a great deal. Happy Shopping.

Rodney Strong Vineyards - 2010 Sonoma County Chardonnay / 2009 Chalk Hill Chardonnay / 2008 Russian River Valley Reserve Chardonnay

Do you like Chardonnay? That’s a loaded question I know. Your answer is probably a return question asking what sort, or style of Chardonnay I’m talking about. There might not be another grape that is so wildly popular on the one hand and inspires so much debate on the other. The basic concept folks tend to wrestle with when it comes to this grape is oak treatment. What has become known in many circles as “California Style Chardonnay” is what really gets a lot of people talking. The trouble with that term is that it only describes a very small amount of Chardonnay from California. There are tons of different Chardonnays made in different styles with varying intent and incredibly divergent price-points. Some producers present a look into the differences in this grape within a single portfolio. One such producer is Sonoma County’s Rodney Strong Vineyards. They make a trio of Chardonnays, that one vintage after another provides a small window into the various disciplines of Sonoma County Chardonnay. I’ll take a look at the current releases of each today. First up is the Rodney Strong Vineyards 2010 Sonoma County Chardonnay. This wine was produced using estate grown fruit as well as grapes sourced at other local Sonoma Vineyards. After harvesting this wine was fermented in a combination of barrel (60%), and stainless steel (40%); 5 months of barrel aging followed for the juice already in oak. This widely available wine has a suggested retail price of $13.50.

Bright, fresh orchard fruit aromas fill the nose of this Sonoma County Chardonnay. Bartlett pear, Golden Delicious apple and hints of lemon zest are present throughout the palate of this wine along with nutmeg and clove spices. The Sonoma County Chardonnay has a crisp, clean finish with zippy acidity and underlying wisps of creaminess. This wine is quite tasty by itself but will also pair well with lighter foods. Rodney Strong's Sonoma County offering continues to be a tremendous everyday value in everyday Chardonnay from Sonoma County.

Next up is the Rodney Strong Vineyards 2009 Chalk Hill Chardonnay. This wine is composed entirely of fruit from the Chalk Hill appellation. 86% of this wine was fermented in French oak, the remainder in stainless steel; 10 months of barrel aging followed for the 86%. This wine is available nationally and has a suggested retail price of $20.

Subtle toast and vanilla aromas join up with loads of fresh fruit aromas and a hint of hazelnut on the nose of this Chalk Hill Chardonnay. The palate of this wine is incredibly even keeled and balanced with appealing orchard fruit and spice sharing the bill with mineral characteristics and, to a lesser degree, bits of tropical fruit and lemon ice. A bevy of spices such as nutmeg, cardamom and white pepper are part of a creamy, layered finish. The oak used here is judicious and well integrated; it adds but does not detract. I’ve been fond of the Chalk Hill Chardonnay for a number of years now. In the $20 category this wine remains a go to choice.

Finally today is the Rodney Strong Vineyards 2008 Russian River Valley Reserve Chardonnay. This wine was produced using fruit sourced at a variety of Russian River Valley Vineyards. The Reserve Chardonnay was entirely fermented in French oak; 14 months of oak aging followed with 46% of the barrels being new. This wine is available across the country and has a suggested retail price of $35.

Apple pie aromas are joined by toast and hints of toffee on the layered and complex nose of this 2008 Chardonnay. Tropical fruits and hints of citrus appear on the palate which is loaded with apple and pear characteristics. Baked pie spices are plentiful as well. Minerals lead the lengthy finish which shows off toasty oak, bits of butter and a creaminess that brings to mind crème brulee. This wine is the epitome of California style Chardonnay; but to be crystal clear an example that is done remarkably well. The oak is well integrated but easily detectable and a key element like a prominent spice, however the fruit is still, as it should be the key. This wine is good on it’s own but excels paired with rich dishes.

This is a distinct trio of wines that could easily provide a mini-tour of Sonoma County Chardonnay and a bit of an eduction all by themselves. Depending on how much you’re looking to spend on a Chardonnay or even more importantly what your desired style is, Rodney Strong Vineyards likely has one you’ll enjoy. Each is a well made wine that delivers excellent value in its category. However I personally reach for the Chalk Hill most often as it comes closest to my personal Chardonnay sweet spot. Rodney Strong Vineyards continues to be a large Sonoma County Producer with readily accesible wines, wherever you live in the US, at more than reasonable prices.

Gustave Lorentz - Cremant d’Alsace (NV) / 2009 Pinot Noir Le Rosé / 2007 Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim

Alsace France is a region that can certainly inspire tons of passion from wine lovers. White varietals rule the day here. When they are from excellent vineyards and made with care they can be nothing less than amazing. I recently tasted through most of the portfolio from Gustave Lorentz. This Alsatian family has been making wine since 1836. It was a pleasure and an eye-opener to samples these wines. As is typical of Alsace the majority of their offerings are white with a few reds in the mix as well. Both still and sparkling wines are part of the mix. I’ve liked each of the selections I’ve tasted from this producer but here are three diverse ones that really set themselves apart.

First up is the Gustave Lorentz Cremant d’Alsace (NV). This sparkling wine is composed of Chardonnay (33%), Pinot Blanc (33%) and Pinot Noir (33%). This offering was produced using the classic “Methode Champenpoise.” 4,500 cases of this wine were bottled and it has a suggested retail price of $24.99

The nose of this non vintage Sparkling Wine is remarkably fresh and lively with apple and green melon aromas of particular note. Brioche, juicy orchard fruits and bits of stone fruit are all part of the palate along with spice and mineral notes. The finish shows an inherent creaminess along with touches of candied lemon zest. This is a really nice sparkling wine for the money. It drinks well on it’s own but will work even better paired alongside light foods.

Next up is the Gustave Lorentz 2009 Pinot Noir Le Rosé. The grapes for this wine were picked as ripe as possible. This wine is 100% Pinot Noir. The fruit was sourced from vineyards that feature clay and limestone heavy soils. 2,000 cases of this Rosé were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

Fresh, ripe Bing cherry aromas drive the nose of this 2009 Rosé. Strawberries, cherries and vanilla characteristics are all at play through the palate. These are joined by hints of darker berry fruit and a touch of candied cherry. The darker fruit elements emerge a bit more forcefully in the finish along with a touch of white pepper. This wine is light and refreshing as most well made Rosé should be. But it also features more depth, weight and complexity than the average example. This wine will pair really well with light foods. A fruit and cheese plate would be perfect. Of course it should be chilled, but resist the temptation to over-chill this beauty.

The final wine in this trio is the Gustave Lorentz 2007 Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Altenberg de Bergheim. The fruit for this wine comes from the namesake classified Grand Cru site. This offering is all Gewürztraminer. The soils there feature heavy clay and limestone components. The vines average between 30 and 50 years of age. Fruit for this offering was hand picked and the whole grapes were pressed and this juice was separated from the free run juice. Fermentation took place with select and native yeasts in mature oak vats. It was aged in these vats for 11 months prior to bottling. 1,000 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $59.99.

Aromas of apple, yellow melon, vanilla and a touch of crème fraiche fill the expressive nose of this 2006 Gewürztraminer. Apricot and yellow peach notes are in abundance throughout the palate. A nice spice component featuring white pepper, cardamom and nutmeg is present as well. Lot’s of sweet yellow and white fruits continue through the impressively long and persistent finish which shows off a bit of a honey. In addition to the lengthy finish the purity of fruit is what strikes me as most impressive about this Gewürztraminer. This wine is delicious now, both on its own and paired with spicy foods in particular. However don’t hesitate to lay it down for the next 8-12 years.

This is a delicious trio of wines from Gustave Lorentz. That said don’t hesitate to try others with their name on the label either. I’ve sampled quite a few and each has been a winner.

Maison J.J. Vincent - NV Cremant de Bourgogne

Sparkling wine comes in all shapes and sizes. France of course has a legendary tradition when it comes to this style of wine. Today I’ll look at selection from Maison J.J. Vincent. The Maison J.J. Vincent Cremant de Bourgogne was produced from fruit sourced in the Winery’s native Burgundy. More specifically the fruit comes from the southern reaches. This offering is composed entirely of Chardonnay. The fruit was handpicked during the earliest part of harvest. Vinification was accomplished using traditional methods for Sparkling Wine. This offering has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

Aromas of freshly sliced apples fill the nose of this non vintage sparkling wine. A gentle wisp of ginger chips in as well. The palate is fresh and crisp with yellow and green apple flavors playing vital roles. A bit of hazelnut emerges as well along with light touches of lemon zest. The finish shows off mineral and spice characteristics as well as tart apple flavors. This is a refreshing wine that has crisp acidity. It drinks well by itself and is also an excellent food wine.

This French Sparkler is a very nice value for $19.99. If you shop around you’ll find it for a bit less. Its complexity belies its price point. Whether you pair this with a Sunday Brunch or simply share it with friends during a casual get together you’re going to be drinking a delicious offering that you’re likely to buy again and again when you realize what a terrific wine you got for your money.

A Trio of Thirst Quenching Quality Boxed Wines

With summer almost over it’s time to get friends and family together for a few more BBQ’s before the weather turns cool. Large gatherings mean lots of mouths to feed and plenty of thirsts to quench. Historically a lot of jokes have been made about boxed wine. And for many years the commentary, criticism and humor were warranted. However in the last 5 years things have taken a pretty dramatic turn for the better. There are a number of producers now putting quality wine out in boxes. This is often referred to as the bag in the box. More often than not these are 3 Liter containers which equates to four standard size bottles. These wines generally sell for right around $20 give or take a couple of dollars based on brand and where you’re shopping. If you were purchasing these as stand alone bottles you could expect to pay somewhere from $6- $9 per bottle. In addition to saving some money with the three liter format a few other advantages are part of things as well. Eschewing glass makes them more environmentally friendly. Additionally if you don’t finish them up no worries as the bag in a box concept keeps the wine fresh for approximately 30 days. Make no mistake there are still plenty of anonymous boxed wines you’ll want to avoid, but now there are also some very solid go to choices. Today I’ll look at three that I recommend. The Falling Star 2009 Chardonnay was produced from fruit sourced in the Mendoza region of Argentina. Falling Star is part of the Trapiche line and represents their budget label. After hand harvesting and fermentation the wine was ages in stainless steel tanks for approximately 6 months prior to a light filtration and bottling, This wine is available in 750 ml bottles, 1.5 L bottles and 3 Liter Boxes. I tasted out of 3 Liter box which has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

Tropical fruit aromas dot the nose of this Chardonnay from Argentina along with copious quantities of yellow and green apple. At the core of this wine is an inherent fruitiness. This is an engaging wine whose chief appeal is that it provides a pure blast of unadulterated Chardonnay flavor. The crisp, clean, refreshing finish shows off continued apple and orchard fruit flavors as well as wisps of minerals and lemon zest. Serve this Chardonnay well chilled at your next BBQ or party and the white wine lovers in the crowd will surely be pleased.

The Falling Star 2010 Malbec was produced from fruit sourced in Mendoza. Fruit was hand harvested and fermented for approximately 20 days at controlled, cool temperatures. 6 months of aging in stainless steel tanks followed prior to filtration and bottling. Much like the Chardonnay this wine is available in 3 sizes. The 3 Liter Box has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

Dark and brooding jam fruit aromas burst forth from the nose on this 2010 Malbec. A number of spices such as nutmeg, vanilla and cardamom make their presence known as well. Juicy, appealing, forward dark fruit flavors are the story of this wines palate. This wine is loaded with pleasing flavors that will make an impression on party guests and keep them coming back to the box for more.  This wine has a reasonable finish for its price point and it will pair well with just about anything off the grill.

The Folonari 2009 Fresh Cask Pinot Noir was made from fruit sourced in the Veneto. This Italian wine is 100% Pinot Noir. After fermentation 80% of the wine was aged for roughly 6 months in stainless steel, the remaining 20% in French oak barriques. This Pinot is available in 750 ml bottles, 1.5 liter bottles and 3 Liter boxes. The 3 Liter Box has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

Dried red fruit, clove, and bits of toast all emerge from the nose of this Pinot Noir. This wine features an even keeled palate where fruit and spice notes both play equally important roles. Dried black cherries, olive tapenade and bits of herbs are all present. A touch of smoke, sweet strawberry and vanilla crème all emerge on the finish. This is a balanced and dry wine with terrific acidity. The Folinari 3 Liter Pinot Noir would be a perfect choice to serve if you’re having a big pasta or pizza party.

Each of these Boxes of wine represents a solid value in its category. They’re appealing wines, meant to please crowds of people. They succeed quite admirably on that score. The easy to pour spouts they feature and the 30 day shelf life of these wines once opened add additonal value. Give one a shot for your next party and see what you think.

Francis Ford Coppola - 2009 Chardonnay / 2009 Claret Cabernet Sauvignon

The Francis Ford Coppola 2009 Chardonnay was produced using fruit sourced in Mendocino and Monterey. This offering is 100% Chardonnay. This selection didn’t undergo malolactic fermentation and also didn’t receive any oak treatment. The Coppola Chardonnay is a widely available wine that's finished in screw cap and has a suggested retail price of $11. Golden delicious apple aromas are joined by nutmeg and clove on the bold, bright nose of this wine. Continued apple notes are prominent through the palate along with Bartlett and Asian pear flavors. Tropical fruits such as mango and papaya are present as well. Vanilla bean, white pepper and apple pie spices all emerge on the finish which has good length. This is a balanced, fruity bargain of a California Chardonnay. For right around $10 this represents a really nice value. It has plenty of varietal character and will pair well with a wide array of foods.

The Francis Ford Coppola 2009 Claret Cabernet Sauvignon was produced using fruit sourced in Napa, Sonoma and El Dorado. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (81%), Petit Verdot (9%), Malbec (5%), Merlot (3%), and Cabernet Franc (2%) are blended in as well. This wine was aged in French oak for 15 months. It’s available nationwide, finished with natural cork and has a suggested retail price of $20.

Cherry and blueberry aromas are joined by hints of toast and vanilla on the nose of this 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon. Blackberries, plum and black raspberries are all part of the palate along with a nice blast of spices and earth. Black tea, oodles of dark sweet chocolate and hints of sour black cherries all emerge on the finish. This Cabernet has soft tannins and good acidity. It’s a Cabernet that is aimed at early consumption; drink it over the next 2-4 years to take advantage of its fresh youthful flavors.

Both of these wines from the Coppola Winery are available nationwide at reasonable prices. They’re meant to be enjoyed as daily drinkers that one can afford regularly. They achieve their goal, and represent their individual varietals well in their respective categories.

Louis Jadot - 2009 Pouilly-Fuisse

The Louis Jadot 2009 Pouilly-Fuisse was produced using fruit sourced in the southern part of Burgundy where a few tiny villages make up this sub-appellation. This offering is 100% Chardonnay. This wine has a suggested retail price around $22 and is currently selling at WineChateau.com for right around $18. Apple and pear aromas are infused with vanilla bean and a hint of toast through the nose of this 2009 Chardonnay. Golden Delicious apple flavors are quite prominent on the palate which is fruity and full-bodied, displaying good weight and plenty of complex layers of flavor. Baker’s spices and pie crust characteristics join in and lead to the finish which has minerals such as limestone and graphite as well as lemon zest characteristics. This wine is balanced by firm acidity and will pair well with a wide array of foods such as grilled white meats, soft and semi-soft cheeses, pastas with cream sauces and more.

Just about every wine region makes Chardonnay. The results vary greatly, to say the least. Even within France itself the styles and intent of Chardonnay run the gamut. Just about every village or sub-region has their own unique terroir and the French are expert at showing off that sense of place. This Example from Louis Jadot offers a lot of drinking pleasure for the price. It’s loaded with varietal character and offers more than reasonable length and complexity in its category. If you’re a Chardonnay drinker (and why wouldn’t you be?) here’s one worth exploring.

Franciscan Estate - 2008 Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay

Carneros is one of the regions in California that has the ability to grow excellent Chardonnay. It seems that more and more folks on both the Napa and Sonoma side of things are looking to relatively cool climate Carneros when they source Chardonnay. Franciscan Estate is a long time Napa Valley producer best known for Magnificat, their Bordeaux style red blend. Today I’ll look at the top level white wine in their portfolio. The Franciscan Estate 2008 Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay was produced entirely from fruit sourced in the Carneros appellation of Napa Valley. This offering is 100% Chardonnay. Much of the fruit comes from the winery’s own Larsen Vineyard. All of the fruit was fermented in barrel using native yeasts. Barrel aging occurred over 14 months in all French oak; 86% of the barrels were new. Just fewer than 1,500 cases of this offering were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $40.

Aromas of vanilla bean, toast and nutmeg join an alluring array of orchard fruits on the nose of this 2008 Chardonnay. Pineapple, apricot, and hints of mango join continued orchard fruit notes throughout the palate of this wine. Baker’s spices emerge towards the back of the palate and lead to the lengthy finish which shows off lemon crème, minerals and chestnut characteristics.

This Chardonnay has plenty of oak influence on it, but it really adds character to this wine as opposed to detracting from it. The pure Carneros fruit shines through brilliantly, making for a delicious drinking experience. This offering will pair well with the more richly flavored side of foods appropriate for white wines. Creamy Four-Cheese Risotto would be a good choice as would Duck Confit.

Henry's Drive - 2010 Morse Code Chardonnay

A number of years ago I first ran across a bottle of Pillar Box Red. This Australian blend was well priced and tasty. Since that time I’ve gone back to it on numerous occasions, recommended to people and had the opportunity to taste it alongside its winemaker. Most compelling for a wine in its price-point is how consistent its quality and general flavor profile has been from year to year. This isn’t often the case with wines around the $10 mark. Last week I had dinner with Henry’s Drive winemaker Renae Hirsch and Winery owner Kim Longbottom. We tasted through much of their current portfolio, including classics like Dead Letter Office and Parson’s Flat as well as The Scarlett Letter a Sparkling Shiraz that’s new for them. Across the board the Henry’s Drive wines are well made and appropriately priced for the quality they offer at each level. In many cases their wines over deliver. One of the wines that really outperforms its price-point is The Morse Code Chardonnay. This is one of the few wines we tasted that night which I had not sampled previously. The Henry’s Drive 2010 Morse Code Chardonnay was produced using fruit sourced in the Padthaway region of Australia. This offering is 100% Chardonnay. A small amount of oak was used in the production of this wine. 5,600 cases of the 2010 vintage were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $8.99.

Ripe orchard fruit aromas leap from the glass of this Chardonnay. A host of both tropical and continued orchard fruit flavors are present on the incredibly pleasing palate of this wine. Pear, pineapple, apple and a hint of papaya are all in evidence along with a core of spices such as nutmeg, clove and vanilla bean. The finish is crisp and refreshing with terrific acidity and good length. This wine is delicious on it’s own but will pair well with lighter foods.

The bottom line for me on the Morse Code Chardonnay is that it’s a steal. This wine is loaded with Chardonnay character. The subtle amount of oak used, adds some complexity as it should, but never detracts. You’re going to be hard pressed to find a Chardonnay for less than $10 that provides as much varietal character, purity of fruit and just sheer delicious drinkability as this wine. If you need a house white wine for the summer a case of Morse Code Chardonnay is a great bet.

The Henry’s Drive Wines provide quality, distinction and value at every price point. Whether you’re spending $8.99 on the Morse Code Chardonnay, or $49.99 on the Reserve Shiraz you’re going to get value for your money. And with them continuing to push the envelope adding new and exciting releases like “The Scarlett Letter,” a delicious Sparking Shiraz, the folks at Henry’s Drive always have something compelling for wine lovers to sample. Buy their wines with the confidence that they are one of Australia’s best and most consumer friendly producers. If you’re a fan of Australian Wine, there’s no doubt in my mind their portfolio has something you’ll be interested in.

Cinnabar Winery - 2007 Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the two varieties I personally associate with the Santa Cruz Mountains more than any other. A host of other varietals flourish there, but the two stars of Burgundy seem to benefit the most from the unique terroir up there. Today I’ll look at a current release Chardonnay from Cinnabar Winery. The Cinnabar Winery 2007 Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay was produced using fruit sourced at two vineyard sites. The two sites sit 1,400 and 2,000 feet above sea level respectively. These vineyards were selected because they’re distinct from each other in a variety of ways. This offering is 100% Chardonnay. The fruit was all fermented in barrel. 80% of it underwent malolactic fermentation. Barrel aging occurred in French oak; 20% of the barrels were new. 300 cases of this wine were produced in the 2007 vintage. It has a suggested retail price of $29

The golden yellow hue of this Chardonnay is immediately striking and impossible to miss. An intoxicating mix of tropical and orchard fruit aromas fill the nose of this Chardonnay. Lots of apple, pear and a bit of papaya show on the palate along with baker’s spices. Apple pie crust and hints of crème brulee lead the finish which has good length and persistence. Spice notes in droves and gentle wisps of mineral, are the lasting impression from this wine which linger after the final sip has disappeared from your lips.

This is a fine example of Chardonnay. It has a purity of fruit that exemplifies the lovely wines emerging from many producers in Santa Cruz. I should also note that the use of oak on this selection was definitely judicious. It makes its presence known, but only enough to enhance all the glorious fruit. If you’re a fan of balanced California Chardonnay that showcases the fruit above all else, this wine should be on your short list.

Maison Vincent - 2009 J.J. Bourgogne Blanc

Truth be told I’ve had a rocky relationship with Chardonnay over the years.  Some would say it’s love / hate. In theory I love Chardonnay. Certainly the grape itself is one of the stone cold classics; the most revered of varieties in many circles. And when Chardonnay is made in a style true to its roots and its natural essence I’m on board. Sometimes though the grape is bastardized with absurd amounts of oak, to the point that the wine in question becomes a testament to wood, not grapes; thankfully that trend seems to have lessened over the last few years. Today I’ll look at a Chardonnay firm Burgundy, a place that more often than not has treated Chardonnay with the kid gloves it deserves to achieve greatness. The Maison Vincent 2009 J.J. Bourgogne Blanc was produced from fruit sourced in southern Burgundy. This offering is 100% Chardonnay. This wine was vinified in a combination of stainless steel (67%) and French oak (33%). This selection has a suggested retail price of $18.

Fresh orchard fruit aromas and hints of biscuit emerge from this nose of this 2009 Chardonnay. Both apple and pear continue on the palate and they’re accompanied by bits of Meyer lemon and white pepper. Minerals lead the finish along with tart apple, a touch of vanilla bean and a mélange of citrus flavors. This wine is crisp and refreshing with zingy acidity.

This is a really nice example of Chardonnay and it’s also a good value for its price-point. The use of oak on this wine was judicious and it adds to the overall complexity and layers of flavors. The firm acidity helps lend this wine to being a natural partner for lighter foods.

Examining the Age Worthiness of White Wines from Alto Adige

Last week I attended a tasting in Manhattan featuring the wines of Alto Adige. This region sits in the Italian Alps. Both red and white varieties are grown with white taking the lead at 55% of planted acreage. This two-part tasting included a walk around portion that featured tons of exciting new releases from a host of producers. Both red and white wines were showcased. That was the second part of the day; I’m going to focus on the first part. That initial piece was a 90 minute, sit-down seminar during which eight white wines were presented. The mission statement of the seminar was to illustrate the overall age-ability of white wines from Alto Adige. There are few regions in the world that produce white wines with the ability or intent of aging. The ones that have that capability however can often be transcendent. I was pretty curious to see how these wines would taste and if they really did have the as advertised potential for above average longevity. What follows are some brief thoughts about each of the eight wines we tasted. Nals Margreid 2007 Pinot Grigio Punggl DOC Alto Adige. This single vineyard wine is 100% Pinot Grigio. Half of the grapes for this wine were fermented and aged in large oak barrels, the other half in stainless steel tanks. At release this wine had a suggested retail price of $24. The 2009 is the current vintage of this particular wine. The 2007 features lots of yellow fruit flavors throughout a round and sweet but well balanced palate. It shows off the juicy flavors that are prevalent with relatively small production Pinot Grigio treated with care; as opposed to the vast array of anonymous Pinot Grigio that hits US shelves by the boatload.

Franz Haas 2004 Cuvee Manna. This wine is a blend of Riesling, Chardonnay, Traminer Aromatico and Sauvignon Blanc. The fruit was sourced from four vineyards at altitudes of 350 to 850 meters. Each lot was picked and fermented separately. The Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc saw time in Barrique while the Riesling and Traminer Aromatico were fermented in steel. The blend was assembled at final fermentation and spent 10 months on yeasts prior to bottling. 50,000 bottles of this wine were made and at release it had a retail price of $40. The stated goal of this wine is the ability to pair with as wide an array of foods as possible. Apricots, and white cling peach characteristics are dominant on this wine which is driven by intense, fresh fruit flavors. There is a bit of honey on the finish. Ultimately this offering is layered with loads of complexity. For me this was one of the most interesting wines of the day.

San Michele Appiano 2006 Pinot Grigio Sanct Valentin DOC Alto Adige. This wine was sourced from vines with 25-40 years of age on them. The vineyards selected sit approximately 450 meters above sea level. This wine was aged in a combination of new (40%) and used (60%) barriques. This offering spent 11 months on yeast. At release this wine had a suggested retail price of $35.99. Lilac, peach and a hint of petrol are all present in the nose of this wine. Apricots are prominent on the palate along with spices that carry through the finish along with minerals. This wine has terrific concentration of fruit and persistent, lingering and rather impressive length.

Caldro Castell Giovanelli 2007 Sauvignon DOC Alto Adige. The vines the fruit for this selection were sourced from average 5-10 years of age. This offering is 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Fermentation and aging took place in oak casks. At release this wine had a suggested retail price of $48. This wine is incredibly aromatic with citrus and melon fruit just exploding from the nose. The palate shows continued citrus in droves. Minerals are the story on the crisp, clean finish. This wine has racy, slightly zingy acidity.

Terlan Nova Domus 2005 Terlaner Riserva DOC Alto Adige. This wine is a blend of Pinot Blanc (60%), Chardonnay (30%), and Sauvignon Blanc (10%). The fruit was sourced from vineyards sitting between 350 and 500 meters above sea level. Fermentation took place in large oak casks (50%) and 500 Liter Tonneaux. The wine spent a year on the yeast. At release this offering had a suggested retail price of $55. Citrus and spice notes are both prominent on the finish of this wine. Stone fruits dominate the palate. The finish of this selection just goes on and on. For a 5 + year old white blend the fruit on this wine is incredibly fresh and vital. It just keeps beckoning you back for more.

Alois Lageder 2002 Chardonnay Lowengang DOC Alto Adige. The fruit for this wine was selected from vines with 40 to 60 years of age on them grown at vineyard sites sitting 260-450 meters above sea level. This was fermented using native yeasts. It was aged in a combination of new (50%) and used (50%) barriques. At release this wine had a suggested retail price of $40. Apple, limestone and minerals are all present on this wine. Its overall style in many ways brings to mind aged Burgundy. The purity of fruit and length of finish are both impressive. 

Peter Zemmer 2006 Gewürztraminer Reserve DOC Alto Adige. This wine is 100% Gewürztraminer, Fermentation took place with pure strains of yeast in temperature controlled tanks. At release this wine had a suggested retail price of $29. This wine is gloriously aromatic with spice and dried fruit and flower aromas emerging from the glass in droves. The palate of this wine is rich and layered with flavor; it's also impeccably balanced and incredibly in focus. The finish has prodigious length that features a particularly impressive spice component.

Tramin 2004 Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer DOC Alto Adige.  The Nussbaumer Estate Vineyards sit between 350 and 500 meters above sea level. This wine is 100% Gewürztraminer. Fruit for this wine was hand picked. Fermentation took place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. At release this wine had a suggested retail price of $35. Nectarine, lychee and hazelnuts fill the nose of this wine. Through the palate apricot and both white and yellow peach flavors are present in droves. This wine has a rich, layered and honeyed finish that lingers persistently. This wine has incredibly appealing flavors and you’ll be hard pressed to stop drinking this once you start.

The bottom line is that each of these selections was impressive in its own right. Taken as a group they were an impressive lineup that achieved the mission statement of showcasing the eminent age worthiness of well made white wines from the Alto Adige region of Italy. Each of them was drinking well and featured fresh flavors that belied their ages. As a group they also had more life ahead of them. Given the complexity, drinkability and obvious longevity these particular wines as well as the current vintages are well worth your time, effort and money.

Franciscan Estate - 2009 Sauvignon Blanc / 2009 Chardonnay

In the early 90’s when I first started visiting Napa Valley a handful of producers were of specific interest to me. I’d visit them time and again because they had one or more wines that I enjoyed regularly and I was also always eager to taste smaller production things that I couldn’t get on my shelf back home. Franciscan Estate was one of those producers. Their Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay were the three wines I drank with the most regularity, but I really enjoyed the majority of their portfolio quite a bit. As happens from time to time they slipped off my radar a bit of late. The number of wines out there are practically dizzying in number, making it difficult to always go back and revisit. So when current releases of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc from Franciscan landed on my desk recently it felt like it does when an old friend you haven’t seen in awhile calls or rings your doorbell, or these days, pokes you on Facebook. Regardless of how they reach out, the reaction is usually the same you want to know how they’re doing. And that was exactly what I was wondering about Franciscan Estate. So today I’ll take a look at their latest vintage of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. The Franciscan Estate 2009 Sauvignon Blanc was produced using fruit sourced exclusively in Napa Valley. This offering is 100% Sauvignon Blanc. The wine was fermented in a combination of stainless steel (90%) and neutral oak (10%). Just fewer than 4,000 cases of this wine were bottled and it has a suggested retail price of $17.

A host of herbaceous aromas are joined by citrus and vanilla bean in the nose of this Sauvignon Blanc. Meyer lemon and grapefruit characteristics lead the palate. Along the way tropical fruit flavors such as papaya and guava are in evidence as well along with bits of gooseberry. White pepper spice, minerals and continued citrus flavors are all part of a lingering finish which is clean, crisp and refreshing.

This Sauvignon Blanc would be an excellent choice to pair with entrée salads, light appetizers and soft cheeses to name a handful of examples. It‘s tasty on its own as well, but really excels to a higher level with food. This is a very appealing wine that will both appease a large crowd of general wine drinkers and also satisfy the Sauvignon Blanc lovers amongst them.

The Franciscan Estate 2009 Chardonnay was produced using fruit sourced in Carneros and southern Napa Valley. This wine is 100% Chardonnay. Fermentation took place in barrel followed by 7 months of aging in small French and American oak barrels; 20% of them were new. Just fewer than 59,000 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $18.

Orchard fruit aromas fill the nose of this Chardonnay. Vanilla bean and hints of toast are present as well to a smaller degree. Both pear and apple flavors are in evidence throughout the palate along with a bit of orange zest. Baker’s spices provide some tongue tingling complexity. Hints of creaminess emerge on the finish and the orchard fruit flavors continue along with a bit of pie crust and a touch of citrus.

This Chardonnay is an impeccably balanced wine. The influence of oak adds the perfect counterpoint to all the terrific fruit flavors. Everything is kept in balance by vital, racy acidity. This wine like the Sauvignon Blanc is delicious on its own but will flourish when paired with food.

Checking in with these new releases from Franciscan Estate it’s good to see that they’re still producing wines that show off their fruit beautifully. Each of these wines is widely available through the US and if you shop around you’ll find them for a bit less than suggested retail. These are both tasty wines and solid values.

Reconsiderng a Napa Valley Legend; Robert Mondavi Winery

As we’ve grown precipitously as a wine drinking nation over the last couple of decades our choices have also increased. The number of outlets selling wine is way up and the options we have once we go there are in sharp contrast to what was available a number of years ago. The temptation in our culture is also to chase the new hot thing. Sometimes that leaves little room to reconsider or reconnect with something we already love. In this case that something is the Robert Mondavi Winery. There was no greater ambassador for both California wines and the importance of wine on our tables in this country than Robert Mondavi. Napa Valley and perhaps the entire US wine industry would look radically different today if not for the chances he took and the advances, in quality and more, that he championed. In the sea of wine that’s out there it’s easy to forget that. Recently I had the opportunity to taste through some current and older releases with winemaker Genevieve Janssens.

Tasting both new offerings and an older Cabernet Sauvignon really showed off the quality of winemaking that is still going on at this venerable Napa Valley house. A particular standout was the 2007 I Block Fume Blanc. This wine is made in tiny quantities (207 cases) and sourced from a specific block of the To Kalon vineyard. It was one of the more impressive Sauvignon Blancs I’ve tasted in quite awhile. At three plus years old it’s fresh and vibrant and still has plenty of life ahead of it. It’s only available through the winery (SRP $75) and well worth the extra effort to get it.

The event took place at Hearth Restaurant in New York and this allowed us to taste these wines as they are meant to be consumed; side by side with food. I sampled the 2008 Napa Valley Chardonnay with a rotating cast of different appetizers. This wine was produced with fruit sourced in Carneros (58%), East Napa foothills (29%), Sonoma County (10%), other Napa vineyards (3%). 69% of the juice was fermented in barrel; 13% of them were new. The balance was fermented in stainless steel. This Chardonnay which is widely available has a suggested retail price of $20. Orchard fruit aromas fill the nose of this wine along with a hint of spice. Golden delicious apple, pear, pineapple and guava all make their presence know through the palate. Minerals, apple pie crust and baker’s spice are each part of the finish which has impressive length for a Chardonnay in this price category. The use of oak here was judicious and it adds to the complexity, as opposed to some Chardonnays where it becomes a distraction. The bottom line is that this wine pairs well with a wide array of different foods and also drinks beautifully on its own. It’s one of the work horses in the Mondavi portfolio and it’s well worth trying if you haven’t had it in awhile.

Two vintages of the Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon were impressive for different reasons. The 1996 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is an excellent example of the age worthiness of good Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon. Most (79%) of the fruit for it came from Oakville; much of it from To Kalon. When Robert Mondavi spoke of comparing Napa wines to his French counterparts it was wines like the reserve Cabernet that I bet he had in mind. This wine still has plenty of fruit on it, but it’s also become earthier and softer. It’s a pleasure to drink both with food and without.

The Robert Mondavi Winery 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon was made entirely with fruit from Oakville and 93% of it from To Kalon. This wine is bigger, bolder and a bit brasher today. It has firm tannins that need some time in the bottle or some aeration to soften a bit. The elements which make the 1996 so drinkable today are also there in the 2007. It’s simply loaded with fruit and spice flavors that are accented by the time spent in barrel. Just less than 10,000 cases were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $135. Ultimately, the 2007 has the hallmarks of a wine that promises to be an even more impressive effort than the 1996. The question after purchasing it is if you have patience. It’s very enjoyable now, particularly with full flavored foods. However if you give it 5 or 10 years of proper storage you’ll be rewarded with a slightly mellower, more resolved wine that will just knock your socks off. You really can’t go wrong either way, it depends which experience you prefer.

Tasting these wines and several others with food, over a leisurely evening made a couple of facts crystal clear. Most importantly if you haven’t had wines from the flagship Robert Mondavi Winery in Napa Valley for a while, it’s high time to revisit them. Their releases still showcase some of the best that Napa Valley has to offer. This was apparent both in widely available wines like the Chardonnay and Cabernet as well as small production items like the I Block Fume Blanc. The other point is that as much attention as the To Kalon Vineyard gets, it should probably get more. The wines that were sourced there show off a tremendous sense of place and are simply impressive efforts. Genevieve Janssens who has been making the wines at Robert Mondavi Winery since 1997 (she worked at Opus One previously) is doing an impressive job shepherding the philosophy of Mr. Mondavi into the future. The best way to thank her for that effort is to taste these wines.

Fontanella Family Winery - 2008 Chardonnay / 2008 Zinfandel / 2007 Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon

During a summer 2009 trip to Napa Valley a friend recommended Fontanella Family Winery to me. I stopped by and tasted their wines, which were impressive. You can read about my experience here. So with 2010 almost out it seemed like a good time to taste their current releases and see if I felt as strongly about these as I do the previous vintages. My impressions of them follow. First up is the Fontanella Family Winery 2008 Napa Valley Chardonnay. This wine which is all Chardonnay was produced using fruit from Mt Veeder (50%) and Carneros (50%). It was aged in French oak for 9 months; 30% of the barrels were new. It has a suggested retail price of $30. Note: The 2009 has recently been released; it’s a Mt. Veeder selection and also sells for $30.

The nose of this 2008 Chardonnay shows off orchard fruit, baker’s spices, and light hints of toasty oak. A host of fruit types are on display through the palate. Mango, nectarine, pear, apple and hints of peach are all in strong evidence. In truth it’s a very appealing potpourri of fruit flavors with a prominent vein of spices running through it. The stone fruits in evidence hang on through the lengthy finish along with continued spice such as nutmeg and white pepper. There’s a touch of unctuousness in the finish which is generally quite fresh and vibrant with racy acidity. This wine has terrific complexity and is clearly an example of Chardonnay that is enhanced by judicious use of oak.

Next up is the Fontanella Family Winery 2008 Zinfandel which was produced from fruit sourced in several prime Napa Valley Appellations; Mt Veeder and Oakville are the most prominent. This offering is 100% Zinfandel. Oak aging occurred over 11 months in American barrels. 442 cases of this release were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $36.

Right up front the nose opens with a burst of jam laden fruit. This is underscored by wisps of vanilla and bramble. Both blackberry and raspberry are prominent through the palate which is rich with layer after layer of sweet, appealing berry fruit flavors. Chocolate sauce leads the finish and really lingers right through persistently as the last note echoing on your taste buds. Along with it the fruit flavors and spice notes such as black pepper and a hint of plum pudding spice also join in. This is a Zinfandel that can easily be enjoyed either on its own or with a meal. It’s hefty and hearty but also quite well balanced and proportionate.

Finally we have the Fontanella Family Winery 2007 Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon. 100% of this fruit was sourced on Mt Veeder. 92% is Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% is Merlot. Barrel aging occurred over 20 months in French oak; 83% of the barrels were new. 650 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $50.

Eucalyptus, toast, and vanilla are the first aromas out of the chute. They’re followed immediately by a heady brew of dark leaning berry fruit. As with the Zinfandel this wine is loaded with layers of complexity that simply don’t stop. Most of the flavors lean towards dark fruits; plum, blackberry, boysenberry and quite prominently, black cherry to name a few. Chicory, dusty baker’s chocolate and hints of earth all emerge in the lengthy finish. This wine his firm tannins that yield with some air. If you’re going to drink this Cabernet now, I’d recommend a couple of hours in the decanter for maximum pleasure; however if you have some patience, lay it down for a few years and you’ll be rewarded with an even more beautiful wine.

The wines from Fontanella Family Winery are distinct and elegant. In their price points they represent fine values. The Cabernet Sauvignon in particular is an excellent deal. Terrific Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon isn’t cheap. With that in mind; this offering is actually a bit of a bargain. If you haven't had a chance to try the wines from Fontanella Family Winery yet, now is as good a time as any. Highly recommended.

Six Distinct Chardonnays from Thomas Fogarty Winery

Thomas Fogarty Winery located in the Santa Cruz Mountains is a producer I’ve been impressed with over the last few years. They have been making wine since 1981.Their portfolio includes a wide range of offerings but Pinot Noir and Chardonnay stand at the core of what they do. With both varietals they make a host of selections, both single vineyard offerings and cuvee style wines. The single vineyard offerings, which are the heart of their portfolio in many ways, allow them to highlight the unique sense of place and time that separates one vineyard from another and one vintage to the next. Today I’m going to look at six distinct Chardonnay releases from them; 4 single vineyard selections and 2 cuvee style offerings. First up is the Thomas Fogarty 2007 Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay. Fruit for this wine was sourced from three vineyards; Winery Estate (89%), Gist Estate (8%) and Camel Hill (3%). This wine was aged in French oak for 10 months. Just fewer than 2,600 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $29.00.

Citrus aromas are underscored by a hint of toast in the nose of this Chardonnay. Orchard fruit and lemon cream flavors are on display through the palate which is dominated by a pure blast of fruit. Nutmeg and baker’s spice emerges and carries through the finish which is crisp and refreshing with solid length. Fine acidity makes this a food lovers wine. This is the most widely available of the Fogarty Chardonnays and it’s a fine example of mountain Chardonnay with depth, and balance to spare.

The Thomas Fogarty 2007 Estate Chardonnay was produced using barrel selection from two of their estate vineyards; Damiana and Langley Hill. Half of the fruit comes from each vineyard. This wine was aged in French oak for 16 months; 30% of the barrels were new. This wine has a suggested retail price of $37.

Pineapple, Golden Delicious Apple and gentle wisps of vanilla fill the effusive nose of this Chardonnay. Orchard and tropical fruit themes continue through the palate where they’re joined by stone fruit in the form of apricot and white peach. These flavors come together to from a core of fresh, vibrant flavors. They lead to the finish which shows off minerals, apple pie spices, toasty oak and solid acidity. This wine has a bit more complexity than the SCM Chardonnay. At three years old this offering is actually on the young side. If you have the patience to lay it down for a year or two you’ll be rewarded with an even lovelier wine.

The Thomas Fogarty 2007 Portola Springs Estate Chardonnay is a single vineyard effort with 100% of the fruit sourced at the vineyard of the same name. Portola Springs Estate Vineyard sits 10 miles from the ocean at an elevation of 1,920 feet above sea level. This selection was aged in all French oak for 18 months; 50% of the barrels were new. Less than 75 cases of this wine were produced and it sells for $48.

A wisp of candied apple emerges from the nose of this Chardonnay and beckons you to take a sip. Pear, apple, pineapple and lemon zest underscored by a touch of crème all make their presence felt in the palate of this Chardonnay. Apple pie spices emerge on the finish along with tart green apple and some savory fruit notes. This wine has solid acidity. It takes a bit of air for this wine to really show its charms. Of these wines, particularly the single vineyard offerings, the Portola Springs is perhaps the most reserved and austere.

The Thomas Fogarty 2007 Langley Hill Estate Chardonnay was produced using fruit from the vineyard of the same name. Langley Hill is Thomas Fogarty’s largest estate vineyard at just over 5 acres. It sits 10 miles from the ocean at an elevation of 1,920 feet. This wine was aged over 18 months in French oak; half the barrels were new. Less than 100 cases of this selection were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $48.

Aromas of citrus fruit join golden delicious apple characteristics in the engaging nose of this Chardonnay. Tropical fruits such as mango and pineapple lead an impressive plate which is fruity, full-bodied and loaded with spice notes such as nutmeg and clove. Lush fruit characteristics continue through the finish which continues the spice parade along with hints of Crème brûlée and a who’s who of mineral notes in droves. The finish is lengthy enough to be both impressive and noteworthy.

The Thomas Fogarty 2007 Albutom Estate Chardonnay is a single vineyard offering. 100% of the fruit was sourced from the namesake vineyard. Albutom Vineyard sits 10 miles from the ocean at an elevation of 1930 feet. This wine was aged for 18 months in French oak; 50% of the barrels were new. Fewer than 50 cases of this selection were produced and it sells for $48.

Asian pear leads the nose of this single vineyard effort. It’s underscored by a solid whiff of spices. The pear theme continues through the palate where Anjou pear flavors rule the day. White pepper and pineapple flavors with a sour fruit element mark the finish followed by toasty oak notes. This wine has a nice acidic bite. This selection is perhaps the most outgoing of these wines. The fruit is a bit more powerful and heftier than the other three single vineyard offerings. Yet, as with every wine I have tasted in their portfolio, it retains balance.

The Thomas Fogarty 2007 Damiana Vineyard Estate Chardonnay was produced using fruit sourced exclusively from the vineyard of the same name. Planted in 1978, this is their oldest vineyard. This selection was barrel aged in new French oak for approximately 18 months. Fewer than 100 cases were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $48.

Inviting fall aromas of apple pie spice and orchard fruit in general emerge generously from the nose of this Chardonnay. The fruit notes throughout the palate are bold, powerful and engaging in nature. Hints of citrus join the orchard flavors along with some yellow and green melon. Hazelnut, white pepper and minerals join toasty oak on a long, lusty and impressive close. This wine has vibrant acidity.

I had the good fortune to sample these wines side by side in a horizontal tasting. Doing so was educational and fascinating as well as rewarding. I learned a lot about the differences in the Thomas Fogarty Vineyards as well as how the subtly different ways they treated each wine helped bring the intrinsic characteristics to the forefront. Most enlightening was the differences between these wines. You might wonder how different six Chardonnays from the same producer, each from their own vineyards might be. Each of these wines is remarkably different and distinct. If you’re a Chardonnay lover you owe it to yourself to try these wines side by side if you can. Another impressive element is that each of these wines will drink well for a number of years. The average shelf life will be 3-5 years but a couple of the single vineyard efforts will go a bit longer.

Paul Dolan Vineyards - 2008 Chardonnay / 2008 Sauvignon Blanc

More and more often I find myself gravitating to taste a larger number of wines from Mendocino when I can. One producer that sticks out in a good way is Paul Dolan Vineyards. They’re Organic and Biodynamic and fully embrace everything that is natural in winemaking. Today I’ll look at two of their white wines. The Paul Dolan Vineyard 2008 Chardonnay was produced entirely from Mendocino County fruit. Fruit was sourced from two vineyards, each planted in the early 1970’s. This wine is 100% varietal. 20% of the wine underwent oak barrel aging for 8 months; the remaining 80% was aged in stainless steel. 3,080 cases of this offering were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $18.

Aromas of Orchard fruit, underscored by white pepper characteristics light up the nose of this 2008 Chardonnay. Bartlett pear, pineapple and light mango flavors are on display through this incredibly fresh and lively wine. Hints of mineral, copious spice notes and a dollop of cream all emerge on the even-keeled and crisp finish of this selection.

The bottom line on this Chardonnay is that it’s clean, crisp and loaded with fresh fruit flavors. In other words this is what Chardonnay tastes like when it’s grown right and the winemaker allows its natural charms to shine. Drink this beauty over the next two years to get the most out of its charming flavors. This is a very impressive selection in its price range.

The Paul Dolan Vineyards 2008 Sauvignon Blanc was produced using fruit from two neighboring vineyards located at the headwaters of the Russian River in Mendocino County. This offering is 100% Sauvignon Blanc; it was both fermented and aged in stainless steel. 1,260 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $18.

Hints of Vanilla Bean intertwine a bevy of citrus aromas in the bold and dynamic nose of this 2008 Sauvignon Blanc. Zesty lemon sorbet flavors through the palate are accompanied by spices and a touch of grass. The finish is lean and mineral laden; it features crisp acidity. The Paul Dolan Sauvignon Blanc leans towards the austere side of this varietal, making it a wine that truly excels when well paired with lighter foods.

This Sauvignon Blanc stands out from the pack; its favors are individual and do an excellent job of expressing a sense of place. If you care about naturally grown wines that aren’t over manipulated, the Paul Dolan portfolio should be on your short list.

Rodney Strong Vineyards - 2008 Chalk Hill Chardonnay

Rodney Strong Vineyards is a dependable name in wine. They’re both one of the flagship brands of Sonoma County and a large winery that produces a wide array of wines in many different price points and styles. The bottom line for me is that their releases tend to be at the very least fairly priced in their respective categories. Sometimes their wines can also be an outright bargain as well. Importantly though, I’ve never had a wine from Rodney Strong Vineyards that I felt was overpriced for the quality it delivered. For my money, that’s no small feat. Today I’ll look at the latest release of one of their Chardonnays. The Rodney Strong Vineyards 2008 Chalk Hill Chardonnay was produced using fruit from the Chalk Hill area. This offering is 100% Chardonnay. 97% of this wine was fermented in barrel and underwent malolactic fermentation. Barrel aging occurred over an 8 month period. This wine has a suggested retail price of $20.

Pineapple, McIntosh apple, and a hint of burnt sugar are the most prominent aromas in the fresh and lively nose of this 2008 Chardonnay. Orchard fruits, including continued apple, are the stars of the palate. Spice and mineral notes play important secondary roles. A hint of oak emerges in the finish along with a rich creamy edge. Crisp acidity keeps things in balance.

I have found this Chardonnay from Rodney Strong Vineyards to be a consistent winner. It does a nice job of straddling a few lines. It has new oak clearly imparted but never over the top. It’s a premium wine at $20 but it over delivers on quality in that price range. Finally it has a generally consistent flavor profile from year to year while still allowing vintage variation to dictate its nuances. A fine and worthy Sonoma Chardonnay.

Cameron Hughes - Lot 145 2008 Santa Barbara Chardonnay

It’s been awhile since I looked at any wines from Cameron Hughes. This California based négociant has been knocking out solid values; particularly in his lot series. With wine sourced from the world over, the portfolio is pretty vast. Today I’ll look at a current release of Chardonnay. It’s worth noting that previous Chardonnay lots I’ve sampled have been impressive. I’m not sure if the folks over at Cameron Hughes have a particular penchant for this grape, but the ones I’ve tasted would indicate they very well might be the case. The Cameron Hughes Lot 145 2008 Santa Barbara County Chardonnay was made for them by a custom crush facility. This wine sees oak treatment in two different types of French barrels. Just over 5,000 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $12.

Orange peel, apple and vanilla are all apparent in the nose of this Chardonnay. Peach and apple are a significant part of the palate but those flavors take a slight back seat to a host of lush tropical fruit notes such as mango. Apple pie flavors, fruit, spice and crust are all part of the finish along with white pepper and lingering peach notes. This wine has terrific acidity and is very well balanced. The oak treatment is obvious but not overdone.

The bottom line is that this is another terrific Chardonnay from Cameron Hughes. For $12 it’s a genuine bargain. Grab this one by the case, before it’s gone, and drink it all summer long.

Visiting Jordan Winery In Alexander Valley

Last week I had the opportunity to tour Jordan Vineyards & Winery, as well as taste their wines. While I had been there once in the past, it had been a number of years, so I was eager to see what if anything had changed in the ensuing years. Jordan Winery is a classic Sonoma County Estate, both because of their facility and the wines they produce. In a world where many producers have an ever increasing roster of wines, Jordan has remained hyper-focused on two things; Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. If you’re going to train the laser so closely on two varietals, it’s a very good idea to get those wines right.

I had the fortune of being an overnight guest on the Jordan property. That allowed me to really take things in and spend quite a number of hours just thinking about them and their wines. In my time there I had the opportunity to taste through several vintages each of Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. I didn't make formal notes, but my general impressions are included here.

At one time the Chardonnay was taken from their home estate in Alexander Valley. That’s no longer the case as they now source fruit under long term contracts from growers in the Russian River Valley. In tasting through the 2005, 2007 & 2008 vintages of Chardonnay the overall quality of the wine was obvious. There was a clear consistency in style, yet obvious vintage variation that allowed each wine to speak on its own. Most impressive to me was the 2005. Not that it was significantly better than the other two. In fact it would be tough to distinguish between the three as far as general quality goes. What knocked me out was how fresh, vital and full of fruit the 2005 still was. At 5 years old it showed no sign of letting up and I’d be surprised if it doesn’t drink well for several more years. Certainly the younger wines were even fresher and showed off a bit more bold fruit, with the 2005 featuring more mineral characteristics. Looking forward they all seem headed down the same delicious and long lived path.

The story with the Cabernet Sauvignon was similar. The older vintage of that wine I had the chance to taste was the 2000. It also displayed much more vibrant fruit than I would have expected at this point. I was particularly impressed with the holding power of this wine when taking into account all the 2000 Cabernet Sauvignons from both Sonoma and Napa Valley that are unimpressive. That wine goes a long way towards supporting the axiom that great winemakers shine in tough vintages. Rob Davis who has been at Jordan since the beginning has done an impressive job of helming these wines over the years without getting complacent. The Cabernet Sauvignon program has also had some changes over the last few years. At one time all the fruit was from their Estate. They now source some fruit from other growers. Mendocino is one of the notable locations they go to for outside fruit. Their goal is to make the best wine possible and if that includes some fruit sourcing that’s the direction they take. The more current releases of Cabernet Sauvignon I tasted again showed consistency of quality as well overall style. Despite being located in Alexander Valley Jordan is very much making wines that take old world styling into account. Balance and longevity are both big parts of the program.

The inside and outside of the Jordan Winery facility are beautiful and each has a charm that makes it seem it’s been there much longer than the 30+ years it has been. Touring the property is a revelation. It’s hard to properly describe how mammoth it is in size and scope. Perhaps the only thing more impressive than that is the shear beauty on display. Many wineries are almost all vineyard. This isn’t a surprise when you take into account the cost of acreage. Jordan has its vineyards of course, but they’re surrounded by acres and acres of unspoiled land.

Often times when I reach for a bottle of wine I go for the new and unknown. That can be fun and exciting. If you want a sure bet though Jordan Winery is a great go to choice. They continue to bring an excellent product to market almost four decades into their existence. Many producers with similarly big reputations have gotten apathetic and rested on their laurels. To the contrary it’s clear to me that Jordan keeps reaching for the brass ring. They respect their own past, but they constantly strive to tweak their present, on a constant drive for perfection. So if you’re reaching for Alexander Valley Cabernet or Chardonnay these folks are worth the time and the money. If you’re going to taste wine in Alexander Valley, it’s worth making an appointment. Their staff is filled with friendly people loaded with information about their winery. The photos below will give you a hint about the beauty that awaits you if you visit.

Photos by David Vermeire