While I haven’t been able to travel very far physically during the pandemic, I’ve spent quite a bit of time in front of my monitor, travelling virtually. Last week I was transported to Tuscany. The occasion was a tasting of four wines by Castello di Fonterutoli. This Gran Selezione tasting was hosted by winery family member and Export Director Giovanni Mazzei. The winery and property, which encompasses 290 acres, and seven vineyards spread across three districts, has been in his family since 1435. Prior to that, they were Coopers.
Giovanni briefed us on winery and family history as well as filling us in on the distinct sites that make up their vineyards. Along the way we tasted four wines from their portfolio. Three of the wines, are Gran Selezione Chianti Classico’s, and a fourth a Super Tuscan. Gran Selezione is a relatively recent (6 or so years) official designation of Chianti Classico DOCG. The fruit must be entirely estate for starters. There are also thresholds tied to yield, grape composition, aging and alcohol content.
Badiòla Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2017, ($99)
This offering is new to the Castello di Fonterutoli portfolio. Over time they recognized that this part of their vineyards, “Badiòla,” which sits just below it’s name-sake Parish was exceptional enough to bottle separately. Of the four wines we tasted, these vines sit at the highest elevation. Rose petals and leather are the most pronounced aromatics alongside fresh red fruit. An undercurrent of red apple supports the red cherry fruit that dominates the palate. A core of spices and bits of toast are evident on the solid finish. This is a delicious Chianti Classico that will be even better with a few additional years of bottle age.
Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2017 ($74)
This bottling is Castello di Fonterutoli’s Flagship Wine. The fruit comes from 11 blocks surrounding the Winery Hamlet. Six distinct clones of Sangiovese are represented. Red rose petals, black cherry and wisps of citrus zest are evident on the nose. The palate is akin to a bowl of fresh red fruit, gently tinged by bits of darker fruit. Black peppercorn, mineral notes and a dollop of earth are evident on the lengthy finish. This is a remarkably elegant wine and the tension between the bright red fruit and firm vein of acid is off the charts. There’s depth, lightness, proportionate intensity and a killer mouthfeel to boot. It’s easy to see why this is their flagship wine. At a suggested retail price of $74, it easily over delivers.
Vicoregio Chianti Classico 36 Gran Selezione 2017 ($99)
The fruit for this offering comes from a single vineyard, Vico Regio. However, that vineyard is home to 36 distinct Sangiovese biotypes. The lots are hand harvested and vinified separately. Boisterous black cherry aromas and black peppercorn lead the charge. Black and red cherry dominate the palate along with bits of chicory. The finish is long and velvety with red and black fruit continuing to reverberate. Three things impress me most about this Chianti Classico; the texture, mouthfeel and depth.
Siepi Toscana IGT 2018, SRP ($130)
All of the fruit for this Super Tuscan comes from the namesake Siepi vineyard. It’s equal parts Sangiovese and Merlot. What immediately impresses here is the approachability of this wine at just 2 years of age. By and large I have found that Super Tuscans tend to be reticent in their youth, needing years of bottle age to show off their charms. Make no mistake, Siepi will age well for several decades and improve, but It’s delicious right now. Bright red cherry aromas are buttressed by intermingling bits of black fruit. These characteristics carry through the palate alongside blackberry and a solid core of spice. The prodigious finish is loaded with earth, chicory and bitter cocoa nibs. Siepi is an impressive wine. It's got heft but it’s also measured and precise.
To the best of my recall, I’d not had any wines from Castello Di Fonterutoli prior to this virtual trip to Tuscany. I can say with conviction, it won’t be my last. While each wine is impressive on its own, what really sets the trio of Chianti Classicos apart is how distinct they are from one another. That said there is a connective tissue running between them. The Super Tuscan is vastly different, of course. But still tasted in a flight with the others, one can see they’re related.
Mionetto IL Prosecco D.O.C. Prosecco. This offering is made entirely of Glera. All of the fruit is sourced in the Veneto. After pressing the must was separated from the skins. Secondary fermentation took place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks using the Charmat method. This wine is finished with a crown cap rather than a cork. The cap is a traditional closure for Prosecco in the Veneto. The suggested retail price is $14. Mionetto, which was founded in 1887, make 5 distinct Prosecco’s and works with many small farmers in the area.
This is an impeccably fresh Prosecco from the word go. Apple, spice and white flower aromas emanate from the lively nose. Bartlett pear, Gala apple, hints of stone fruit and a host of spices fill the palate which is has lots of flavor. Lemon curd, brioche and white pepper are all in evidence on the finish which lingers persistently.