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Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

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Malbec

Franciscan Estate - 2007 Magnificat

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are the wines I first became familiar with in the Franciscan Estate portfolio back in the 90’s. Soon after enjoying those I looked towards their other releases to see what else they were up to. Eventually that led me to their red blend Magnificat, which is their flagship offering. When I’ve gone back to it from time to time over the years I’ve found it to be a consistently well made wine that represents the best of what the folks at Franciscan are up to. Today I’ll look at the 2007 vintage of this wine. The Franciscan Estate 2007 Magnificat is a Bordeaux inspired blend. This wine was produced exclusively from fruit sourced in Napa Valley. The blend consists of Cabernet Sauvignon (71%), Merlot (26%), Petit Verdot (2%) and Malbec (1%). Fermentation and maceration took place over 22 days. Magnificat was aged over 20 months in oak; 89% of the barrels utilized were new and 82% were French. Just fewer than 22,000 cases of this wine were produced in the 2007 vintage. It has a suggested retail price of $50.

Cherry, and Black Raspberry aromas are the most prominent components on the nose of this 2007 Blend. Hints of Eucalyptus chip in as well. Black cherry characteristics carry through the palate along with bits of blackberry, dusty cocoa and copious quantities of spice as well as a gentle kiss of anise. Dark, dusty chocolate notes emerge on the finish along with minerals and continued spice. This is a well structured wine marked by firm acidity and chewy tannins. It’s a bit on the younger side now so I recommend decanting for drinking over the next couple of years. Otherwise hold it for the next decade or so and be prepared to be rewarded for your patience. The bottom line for me is that the 2007 Magnificat is a particularly fine vintage of a wine that is almost always a winner to begin with. It’s well priced for its category and a very solid choice for a special occasion meal.

Newton Vineyard - 2008 Unfiltered Chardonnay / 2008 The Puzzle

Recently, I had the opportunity to taste a number of Newton Vineyard’s current releases alongside Chris Millard their winemaker. It was one of the more interesting tastings in recent memory; in addition to the wines themselves there was a special focus on filtration. Newton makes both filtered and unfiltered wines. All of the releases we sampled are well made and eminently drinkable. I for one however leaned towards the unfiltered wines as my preference. There is an inherent weightiness to their palate and a deeper concentration of flavors and aromas that stood out to me as particularly special. To conclude the tasting we also sampled filtered coffee versus unfiltered French Press. This was also a revelation and it’s a somewhat simple experiment that anyone with a French Press as well as a filtered coffee maker can replicate at home. I encourage you to do just that as I believe you might well be amazed. I decided to revisit a couple of my favorites from the Newton Vineyard portfolio and here’s a look at them. First up is the Newton Vineyard 2008 Unfiltered Chardonnay. This wine was produced utilizing fruit sourced from several locations within Napa County including Newton’s 30 year old Carneros vineyard. Newton’s unfiltered Chardonnay is a 100% varietal wine. Fermentation took place with wild yeasts. Barrel aging occurred over 16 months in French oak; 30% of the barrels utilized were new. This offering has a suggested retail price of $60.

This Chardonnay has a deeply perfumed nose loaded with appealing aromatics. Apple, guava and subtle hints of vanilla bean each play a role. Pineapples, oodles of apple, hints of apricot and spices galore are all prominent throughout the palate. An undercurrent of tropical fruit flavors is present as well. There is an amazing depth of palate here and it is simply loaded with controlled intensity and complexity. The finish on the Unfiltered Newton Chardonnay is long, lusty, fruity and engaging. It goes on and on persistently with fruit and spice notes reverberating. A touch of creaminess provides the final, pleasing note. The bottom line for me is that this is one of the small handful of very best and most honest Chardonnays coming out of Napa Valley at any price point.

The second wine is Newton Vineyard’s 2008 The Puzzle. This is a Bordeaux inspired blend that was made from fruit sourced at their home vineyard on Spring Mountain. Their property is broken up into small blocks and each vintage the finest lots are selected to assemble The Puzzle. As such the varietal composition can vary greatly from one year to the next. The current release is a blend of Merlot (42%), Cabernet Sauvignon (36%), Cabernet Franc (14%), Petit Verdot (6%) and Malbec (2%). Aging occurred over 20 months in entirely French oak. This wine has a suggested retail price of $80.

Cabernet Franc lovers will recognize it’s presence in this wine from the first whiff they take. It lifts the nose and provides a lovely gateway with black cherry, dark chocolate and hints of leather leading the way. Plums and blackberry flavors show up on the palate along with continued cherry (both red and black) characteristics. Nutmeg, black pepper and clove spices are present as well. Earth, hints of smoked meats, cardamom and minerals all emerge on the finish which is persistent and impressive in its length. Impeccable structure and acidity are also present, helping to make this an absolutely phenomenal blend. This is classic Napa Valley mountain fruit in all it’s glory with finesse, depth and a rugged backbone. I sampled The Puzzle after it had been open for a full 24 hours and it was drinking even more beautifully.

There’s no two ways about it, these are both stunningly terrific wines. I’m particularly finicky about California Chardonnays in the premium price range. I find way too many of them are over priced wood and butter bombs that taste like almost anything but Chardonnay. The Newton Vineyard Chardonnay flies in the face of that and is loaded with pure Chardonnay fruit that is enhanced by the oak treatment it received. At $60 it’s not a wine aimed at everyday consumption, but it is an impeccable example of how well Chardonnay can do in California when treated appropriately through the entire process. If you love Chardonnay you owe it to yourself to try this wine when you can. The Puzzle is an excellent blended wine that you’ll have fun drinking with a great meal or sitting with some friends and picking apart all the varietal components that shine in their own way as they come together to make a most excellent and well balanced blend. Both of these wines will drink well for a number of years, The Puzzle in particular while delicious now will improve over the next 10-15 years. If you haven’t tried the wines from Newton Vineyard, they are well worth both your time and your money. Their more readily available and lower priced, filtered offerings are also wines you should consider.

Graffigna - 2010 Centenario Malbec

April 17th is World Malbec day. This day was chosen for it’s historical importance to both Argentina’s wine industry as a whole and the focus on Malbec as their calling card varietal. Over the past few years I’ve enjoyed the wines from Graffigna on numerous occasions. Today I’ll look at one of their current releases of Malbec. The Graffigna 2010 Centenario Malbec was produced from fruit grown in the San Juan region of Argentina. Hand harvesting of the fruit occurred in the early morning hours to assure cooler temperatures. After transport to the winery in small vessels the grapes were macerated for 15 days followed by fermentation in stainless steel tanks; another 7 day period of maceration followed.  Barrel aging occurred over 12 months in a combination of French (85%) and American oak (15%). This wine can be most often found on store shelves for right around $10.

This Malbecs nose is filled with red and black raspberry aromas. These characteristics as well as cherry, mission fig and a host of spices such as nutmeg and fennel emerge on the palate which shows good refinement. Vanilla bean, cardamom, white and black pepper as well as a bit of cranberry emerges on the finish which has good length for its category. The Graffigna Malbec shows off medium tannins that yield easily with air. It also displays a few hints of the eager, bright fruits so typical of Malbec in this category but leans heavily towards the darker, denser fruits and structure more often found in pricier examples. This is a solid value in Malbec and a fine choice to drink on World Malbec Day.

Michael Torino - 2011 Malbec Rosé

I love Rosé. There’s something about this style of wine, when it’s well done that appeals to me on a deep level. Of course I consume more of it in warm weather months than in fall and winter. However I do find time and desire to drink it in the colder months, particularly if it’s a little bit bigger and bolder a style of Rosé. Today I’ll look at an example from Argentina that fits perfectly into the profile of the sort of Rosé I enjoy while I’m waiting for the weather to warm back up. The Michael Torino 2011 Malbec Rosé was produced from fruit sourced in the Cafayate Valley of Argentina. All of the vineyards utilized sit between 3,000 and 5,000 feet above sea level. This selection is 100% Malbec. After a short period of skin contact this wine is fermented and vinified utilizing the same practices employed for their white wines. A short period of aging, roughly five months, takes place prior to release. This wine is widely available for right around $12.

Aromas of red cherry and flowers are prominent on the nose of this Rosé. Tons of wild strawberry, cherry and bits of pepper are apparent through the full flavored and fruit forward palate. The bright fruit flavors continue through the finish along with a hint of vanilla bean. This wine is very refreshing with good acidity. This Malbec Rosé is made to be paired with food. It has a bit of extra heft allowing it to stand up to a wider array of cuisines than the average Rosé. If you’re drinking this in the cooler months, I’d recommend only putting a slight chill on it.

Alex Elman - 2009 Malbec

Malbec is the great red grape of Argentina. Certainly Cabernet Sauvignon and other red varietals flourish there as well; however the Malbecs are what most of us get really excited about. There’s a good reason for that; Argentina does Malbec the way Burgundy does Pinot Noir; better than anyone else. That said the styles vary greatly as do the intents of those wines. Today I’ll look a current release Malbec that is intended for everyday consumption. The Alex Elman 2009 Malbec was produced using fruit sourced in the Mendoza region of Argentina. This offering is 100% varietal. Alexandra Elman founded her company to source and import sustainable offerings that represent her vision for what good wine should be. She strives to find wines that exhibit a sense of place and are un-manipulated expressions of their origin. Currently her portfolio includes four releases from the Mendoza region of Argentina. The 2009 Malbec has a suggested retail price of $12.99.

Deep, dark brooding fruit aromas leads the nose of this wine along with a wisp of vanilla bean and a gentle touch of green herbs. The palate is full flavored and gently layered with luscious, juicy blackberry, blueberry, raspberry, and dark plum flavors. Plum pudding and fruitcake spices kick in as well. The finish shows off chicory, white pepper and a chocolate sauce flavors. This Malbec drinks well all by itself and it will also pair well with roasted meats and hard cheeses to name a few choices. This is a well priced Malbec that delivers more flavor and distinction than many in the same price category.

Tupun - 2008 Valle de Tupungato Malbec

Malbec comes in all shapes and sizes. Some are incredibly fruit forward and others are more classically styled and structured. Today I’ll look at one that’s very reasonably priced from Bodega del Tupun, a Mendoza based producer. The family has their roots in Spain and has been making wines in Argentina under their own label since the mid 1990’s. The Tupun 2008 Valle de Tupungato Malbec was produced from fruit sourced in the Mendoza region of Argentina. The vineyards this fruit was sourced from sit more than 3,600 feet above sea level in ground that is rich with limestone, clay and pebbles. This offering is 100% Malbec and it has a suggested retail price right around $20 and is currently available at WineChateau.com for less than $10.

Plum, blueberry, mushroom and wisps of barnyard fill the highly perfumed nose of this 2008 Malbec. From the first sip the engaging flavors of this wine grab you into its warm, welcoming embrace. Black fruits dominate the palate and they’re joined by plum pudding and fruitcake spices. Dark fleshy plum flavors are joined by interspersing cranberry characteristics and continued spice on the finish which has above average length for the category. This wine will pair will with hard cheeses and roasted meats. It’s also a good choice to have with Pizza.

This Malbec seamlessly rides the line between juicy, forward fruit and a proportionate, balanced palate. In short this wine is more refined than many in a similar price range, making this a terrific value in Malbec.

A Trio of Thirst Quenching Quality Boxed Wines

With summer almost over it’s time to get friends and family together for a few more BBQ’s before the weather turns cool. Large gatherings mean lots of mouths to feed and plenty of thirsts to quench. Historically a lot of jokes have been made about boxed wine. And for many years the commentary, criticism and humor were warranted. However in the last 5 years things have taken a pretty dramatic turn for the better. There are a number of producers now putting quality wine out in boxes. This is often referred to as the bag in the box. More often than not these are 3 Liter containers which equates to four standard size bottles. These wines generally sell for right around $20 give or take a couple of dollars based on brand and where you’re shopping. If you were purchasing these as stand alone bottles you could expect to pay somewhere from $6- $9 per bottle. In addition to saving some money with the three liter format a few other advantages are part of things as well. Eschewing glass makes them more environmentally friendly. Additionally if you don’t finish them up no worries as the bag in a box concept keeps the wine fresh for approximately 30 days. Make no mistake there are still plenty of anonymous boxed wines you’ll want to avoid, but now there are also some very solid go to choices. Today I’ll look at three that I recommend. The Falling Star 2009 Chardonnay was produced from fruit sourced in the Mendoza region of Argentina. Falling Star is part of the Trapiche line and represents their budget label. After hand harvesting and fermentation the wine was ages in stainless steel tanks for approximately 6 months prior to a light filtration and bottling, This wine is available in 750 ml bottles, 1.5 L bottles and 3 Liter Boxes. I tasted out of 3 Liter box which has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

Tropical fruit aromas dot the nose of this Chardonnay from Argentina along with copious quantities of yellow and green apple. At the core of this wine is an inherent fruitiness. This is an engaging wine whose chief appeal is that it provides a pure blast of unadulterated Chardonnay flavor. The crisp, clean, refreshing finish shows off continued apple and orchard fruit flavors as well as wisps of minerals and lemon zest. Serve this Chardonnay well chilled at your next BBQ or party and the white wine lovers in the crowd will surely be pleased.

The Falling Star 2010 Malbec was produced from fruit sourced in Mendoza. Fruit was hand harvested and fermented for approximately 20 days at controlled, cool temperatures. 6 months of aging in stainless steel tanks followed prior to filtration and bottling. Much like the Chardonnay this wine is available in 3 sizes. The 3 Liter Box has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

Dark and brooding jam fruit aromas burst forth from the nose on this 2010 Malbec. A number of spices such as nutmeg, vanilla and cardamom make their presence known as well. Juicy, appealing, forward dark fruit flavors are the story of this wines palate. This wine is loaded with pleasing flavors that will make an impression on party guests and keep them coming back to the box for more.  This wine has a reasonable finish for its price point and it will pair well with just about anything off the grill.

The Folonari 2009 Fresh Cask Pinot Noir was made from fruit sourced in the Veneto. This Italian wine is 100% Pinot Noir. After fermentation 80% of the wine was aged for roughly 6 months in stainless steel, the remaining 20% in French oak barriques. This Pinot is available in 750 ml bottles, 1.5 liter bottles and 3 Liter boxes. The 3 Liter Box has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

Dried red fruit, clove, and bits of toast all emerge from the nose of this Pinot Noir. This wine features an even keeled palate where fruit and spice notes both play equally important roles. Dried black cherries, olive tapenade and bits of herbs are all present. A touch of smoke, sweet strawberry and vanilla crème all emerge on the finish. This is a balanced and dry wine with terrific acidity. The Folinari 3 Liter Pinot Noir would be a perfect choice to serve if you’re having a big pasta or pizza party.

Each of these Boxes of wine represents a solid value in its category. They’re appealing wines, meant to please crowds of people. They succeed quite admirably on that score. The easy to pour spouts they feature and the 30 day shelf life of these wines once opened add additonal value. Give one a shot for your next party and see what you think.

Santa Julia + - 2010 Torrontés / 2010 Malbec

The Zuccardi Family in Argentina has been making wine since 1963 and they have more than 2,800 acres under vine. They’re committed to sustainable farming practices and making natural wines. Their latest project is the Santa Julia + line. These are budget priced offerings that sell for around $10. Today I’ll look at two wines in this line. The Santa Julia + 2010 Torrontés was produced using fruit sourced from their sustainably farmed Estate Vineyards in the Mendoza region of Argentina. Grapes were picked over a two week period at the end of March 2010. Temperature controlled fermentation was accomplished with select yeasts. This offering is 100% Torrontés and it has a suggested retail price of $10.

Aromas of white flowers and stone fruit fill the lovely nose of this 2010 Torrontés. The palate is quite fruity and juicy, yet perfectly dry. Apricot and peach flavors play a large role. Hints of mango chip in as well. Almond, hazelnut, vanilla bean and grapefruit characteristics are part of the finish which is crisp and clean with zippy acidity. This wine is a nice value in Torrontés, it’s refreshing and it shows off wonderful varietal character.

The Santa Julia + 2010 Malbec was produced from grapes grown on sustainably farmed Estate Vineyards in three distinct areas of Argentina. This offering is 100% Malbec. Following 20 days of maceration 30% of the wine was aged in French oak for four months. The barrels included were 1st, 2nd and 3rd time used. This wine has a suggested retail price of $10.

The deep, dark purple hue of this wine is striking the moment you pour it into the glass. Aromas of lavender and violets fill the nose along with brooding dark fruits. Plum and blackberry flavors are quite prominent throughout the palate along with both red and black raspberry. Wisps of toasty oak, white pepper as well as bits of dark chocolate are all part of the finish which has more than reasonable length for this category. Fine acidity keeps things in check.

These wines are emblematic of the value coming out of Argentina. These two offerings represent the key white and red varietals they offer. For less than $10 apiece if you shop around these wines are great everyday values that show off pure fruit flavors.

Trapiche - 2008 Oak Cask Malbec

The Trapiche 2008 Oak Cask Malbec was produced using fruit from the Mendoza region of Argentina. Some of the fruit is from estate vineyards and some from other Mendoza vineyards. This wine is 100% Malbec. Fruit was hand picked and fermented in temperature controlled vats. Each lot of wine was separately aged in a combination of French and American oak over a period of twelve months. Prior to bottling the lots are blended and undergo a light filtration. This wine sells for right around $10. Aromas of toasty oak, vanilla bean and black cherry explode from the nose. Dark berries dominate the plate; blackberries, raspberries and black cherries all play a role. Ribbons of red fruit pass through as well and provide a nice counterpoint in flavor. Vanilla, minerals, graphite and fresh roasted espresso flavors are all part of the finish which has good length for the price point.

This Malbec from Trapiche is a terrific value in its category. It offers a bit more complexity, length and elegance than many other examples in the under $12 category. It has plenty of up front fruit but it also has balance which many examples of Malbec in this price range lack. You can certainly drink this wine on its own, but it’s particularly well suited to pair with grilled meats. Sliders, kabobs or chops would be perfect. Mushroom based dished and hard, flavorful cheeses are safe bets as well. In any case if you drink Malbec, the Oak Cask from Trapiche is one to look out for in the under $12 category.

Cinnabar Winery - 2008 Mercury Rising

The Cinnabar Winery 2008 Mercury Rising was produced from fruit sourced in four California appellations; Paso Robles, Lodi, Lake County, and Monterey County. This wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. All of the fruit for this selection was hand harvested during cool morning hours. Fermentation took place in open top bins and stainless steel tanks. Barrel aging occurred over 25 months in a combination of French, American and Hungarian oak; 40% of the barrels were new. A light filtering took place just prior to bottling. This wine has a suggested retail price of $21. Vanilla, cherry, pepper and cigar box aromas are all prominent on the nose of this 2008 blend. The palate is loaded with additional cherry as well as blueberry flavors. A solid core of spices plays a significant role here as well; nutmeg, clove and a hint of cinnamon are of particular note. Sour cherry, pomegranate and rhubarb characteristics are all part of a smooth finish that has a velvety feel. This wine has soft, approachable tannins and solid acidity.

There’s a lot to like about this 2008 Blend from Cinnabar. First and foremost it’s delicious and perfectly suited for a wide array of cuisine. Whether you pair it with a dish of pasta or something off of your grill the results will be a terrific pairing. In addition to that this wine also represents a nice value. If you shop around you’ll find it for around $18, at that price it’ll be a good everyday choice for a lot of folks.

Michael Torino - 2008 Don David Malbec

Sprint is here and it’s time to head out to the grill and Barbecue. With the grilling season upon us you’ll want to find wines that pair well with that style of cooking. Malbec is an excellent choice for that, particularly if you’re cooking meats on your grill. Today I’ll look at one from Michael Torino. The Michael Torino 2008 Don David Malbec was produced using fruit sourced in the Cafayate Valley of Argentina. Michael Torino Estate Winery was founded in 1892 and has over 1,500 acres under vine which are more than 5,500 feet above sea level. This offering is 100% Malbec. The suggested retail price for this wine is $15.99.

Dark, dense fruit aromas fill the nose of this Malbec. Blackberry and blueberry are of particular note. Dried dark fruit flavors including plum are prominent throughout the palate along with a bevy of spice notes led by vanilla bean and clove. This wine has a particularly juicy middle which continues to the finish where kirsch liqueur emerges along with earth and sweet, dark chocolate notes. Excellent acidity keeps things in check here.

This Malbec from Michael Torino is an excellent example of the varietal. It’s delicious on its own and will pair well with full flavored foods. As I mentioned above it’s particularly well suited to grilled meats. However you decide to drink it you’ll find that this wine is a really solid value. If you’re a Malbec fan already here’s a good one to add to your list to try. If you’re new to Malbec this release from Michael Torino is a great place to start.

deLorimer Winery - 2006 Alexander Valley Malbec

As I continue to take an occasional look at Malbec this spring it’s time to shift away from Argentina for a moment. There’s no question that Malbec really thrives there and many fine examples exist. However you can usually find a little bit of Malbec wherever Cabernet Sauvignon and the other Bordeaux varietals are grown. The trouble is outside of Argentina not many folks are bottling it as a single varietal. It’s too bad because the ones crafted with care often make for interesting wines. Today I’ll look at a current release of California Malbec from Alexander Valley’s deLorimer Winery. The deLorimer Winery 2006 Malbec was produced from fruit sourced in Alexander Valley. The vineyard site sits more than 300 feet above sea level and it was planted in 1985. This offering is 100% Malbec. Fruit was handpicked and barrel aging took place in French oak over a period of 30 months. 400 cases of this Malbec were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $24.

The unmistakable deep, dark hue of Malbec is immediately striking. Black mission fig aromas lead the nose of this wine and are joined by little bits of vanilla bean and toasty oak. Rich, ripe, dark berry fruit is present in copious quantities throughout the palate. Black pepper and nutmeg play key roles as well. Rhubarb, cranberry and earth all emerge on the finish which shows significant length. This Malbec has firm tannins and excellent acidity.

This wine is pretty nice on its own, but it’s really primed to pair with food. Roasted meats will work particularly well. This is a really well balanced wine that will age gracefully over the next 6-8 years. That said it’s delicious now and there’s no particular reason to wait on this one. It may not be from Argentina, but it is a very fine example of Malbec.

Trapiche - 2007 Icons Malbec Vina Adolfo Ahumada

One of the great things about Malbec is that you can often get a reasonable example of it for a pretty decent price. Like everything else though there are also Malbecs at higher than entry level price points. In fact these days a good wine shop stocks Malbecs at almost any conceivable price. Today I’m going to look at a single vineyard effort that falls into the super premium category. The Trapiche 2007 Icons Malbec Vina Adolfo Ahumada is a single vineyard effort. All of the fruit for this wine was sourced at the La Patria vineyard. These vines sit close to 1,100 meters above sea level in the Mendoza region of Argentina. This offering is 100% Malbec. This wine was aged over 18 months in French oak. It has a suggested retail price of $55.

Boysenberry, black raspberry and spice box aromas fill the nose of this 2007 single vineyard Malbec. Blackberry and cherry flavors dominate the palate which is loaded with lots of fresh, ripe, rich, appealing dark berry fruit. An undercurrent of spice is present as well and leads to the finish. Pencil lead, espresso, earth, black pepper, nutmeg, clove, and pomegranate are all part of the finish along with lots of crushed cherry. The final notes linger persistently for an impressive overall finish. This wine has terrific structure and features firm tannins and solid acidity.

If you’re going to drink this Malbec over the next couple of years, it’s wise to decant it. It’s tight out the bottle right now and an hour or so really allows it to open up and express itself. However you could just as easily lay this down for 4-6 years and drink it in the 4-6 after that. Time will treat this wine well. This is an impressive Malbec worth every penny of its suggested retail price. A good wine to taste if you want to see the heights Malbec can achieve.

Michael Torino Estate - 2010 Cuma Malbec

I’ve been tasting through quite a few Malbecs lately and I’ll present some of the noteworthy ones here every week or so for a couple of months. Argentina’s Michael Torino Estate makes several tiers of wine. One of those tiers is Cuma. This word means clean and pure in Aymara a local language that predates the Inca’s. This range represents their organic offerings. Today I’ll look at the Malbec from that tier. In addition to Malbec they also produce a Cabernet Sauvignon and a Torrontes in that range. The Michael Torino Estate 2010 Cuma Malbec was produced from grapes certified to be organic. The fruit was sourced in the Cafayate Valley region. This offering is 100% Malbec. This wine has a suggested retail price of $12.99.

When you pour this Malbec it’s impossible not to notice the beautiful purple hue that’s tinged with bits of red. Aromas of sweet red and black jam along with vanilla bean fill the nose of this 2010 Malbec. The word juicy is the first that comes to mind when tasting this wine. Crushed red cherries and black mission fig flavors fill the palate. An undercurrent of spice kicks in and leads to the finish which shows off a bit of sweet dark chocolate and continued spice. Sufficient acidity keeps things in check.

There are a few things I really like about this Malbec. One is the overall juiciness of the wine. The other is the purity of fruit which is persistent from the first sip until the last. It’s loaded with flavors but nicely balanced and easy to drink in the best sense of that expression. The bottom line is that it outclasses its price-point.

Astica - 2010 Malbec / Falling Star - 2009 Malbec

Everyone is always on the hunt for values, and these days it seems that’s truer than ever. Argentina is a country that has been providing value driven wines for a long time now. Seemingly at every conceivable price-point there are wines to be had that over deliver on what you spend. When it comes to red varieties, Malbec is a great source of diversity and value. There are a myriad number of Malbec styles and designations from all over Argentina in a wide array of prices. Over the next month or so I’ll be looking at a diverse array of Malbecs. Today I’ll start with a couple that will fit into any wine budget. First up is the Astica 2010 Malbec. This wine was produced using fruit sourced in the Cuyo region of Argentina. The fruit for this release was hand harvested. This 2010 Malbec has a suggested retail price of $5.99.

A big and immediate whiff of vanilla bean opens the nose of this Malbec. Raspberry, cedar and a touch of eucalyptus follow. Cherry, plum, and raspberry notes are part of the palate with both fresh and dried fruit characteristics playing a role. Towards the finish the fruit flavors take on a fleshy feel and they’re joined by continued vanilla, hints of cranberry and white pepper. This wine has good acidity and is made for enjoyment in its youth when all of the appealing upfront fruit flavors are at their peak.

Today’s second wine is the Falling Star 2009 Malbec. The fruit for this selection was sourced in the Mendoza region.  Half of the fruit was fermented at high temperatures while the other half underwent traditional fermentation. This offering is 100% Malbec and has a suggested retail price of $5.99.

Dark jam fruit aromas as well as toast and vanilla are part of the nose on this 2009 Malbec from Falling Star. The palate of this wine is incredibly juicy with super appealing black fruit flavors. Blackberry pie and blueberry are of particular note. The finish has more than reasonable length for a wine in this price-point. The dark fruits continue and they’re joined by hints of clove and white pepper. This is a sturdy Malbec with lots of crowd appeal. BBQ season is fast approaching and this wine is an excellent one to have on hand for your own entertaining as well as to bring to a friend’s house. For less than $6 a bottle it’s definitely a bargain and a wine you might want to consider a case buy on. It has more flavor, depth and value than similarly priced “critter wines” that aim for a similar spot on your wine rack. Consume this wine over the next two years to get the most of its youthful bravado.

Both of these wines are fine examples of the value available in entry level Malbecs from Argentina. That’s just the tip of the iceberg though. Stay tuned as I continue looking at a variety of Malbecs over the next handful of weeks.

Rodney Strong - 2007 Symmetry Red Meritage

Whether it’s a $10 bottle or a $75 bottle I’ve found that the wines Rodney Strong puts their name on represent solid or better values in just about every case. If you enjoy wines from Sonoma County they’re a producer you should be familiar with as they offer many go to options, for everyday drinking, as well as plenty of wines appropriate for special occasions or cellaring. Today I’ll look at their latest Meritage. The Rodney Strong 2007 Symmetry is a red Meritage wine. Fruit for this wine was sourced in Alexander Valley. This offering is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (85%), Malbec (10%), Merlot (3%), Cabernet Franc (1%) and Petit Verdot (1%). Aging occurred over 26 months in exclusively French oak barrels. This wine has a suggested retail price of $55.

Aromas of blackberry, black raspberry, toasty oak and a hint of pine are all present in the nose of this 2007 Meritage. Cassis and continued blackberry characteristics are apparent through the palate. The story these flavors tell is quite dark and brooding with impressive depth and layer after layer of juicy flavor. Plum pudding spice notes are in evidence midway through and carry to the finish which also shows off lots of dark sweet chocolate, espresso and hints of emerging earth. This wine has firm tannins and fine acidity. I tasted this wine over 3 consecutive days. Each time I went back to the open bottle it had undergone a continuing positive evolution. If you’re drinking it now, pair it with something substantial for best results.

Symmetry is delicious today, particularly if you decant it for a couple of hours, but time will only help this wine. I would recommend this 2007 release from Rodney Strong as something you might like to tuck a couple of bottles of away in your cellar. Then come back to them down the road apiece, perhaps 5 or 10 years and you’ll find you have an even more harmonious wine on your hands. In either case Symmetry is an excellent example of what can be achieved in Alexander Valley with Bordeaux varietals.

Michael Torino - 2009 Malbec Rosé

September is almost here and with its arrival many folks will shift away from Rosé to other wines. But there’s no reason to do that. Well made, dry Rosé’s can be enjoyed all year; late summer and fall are as good a time as any. Today I’ll look at an Argentine example made from their signature varietal, Malbec. This offering is from Michael Torino. They have more than 1,500 acres under vines, most sitting at elevations of more than 5,500 feet above sea level. The Michael Torino 2009 Malbec Rosé was produced from fruit sourced in the Cafayate Valley of Argentina. The grapes were harvested manually and after crushing there is some skin contact. Fermentation and vinification is handled in the same manner as their white wines. This selection has a suggested retail price of $11.99.

This 2009 Rosé has a darker, deeper hue than most. Aromas of wild strawberry and cherry fill the nose along with a light hit of spice. Vibrant red fruit flavors underscored by hints of tropical and citrus fruits lead the vivid, appealing palate. White pepper and fruit flavors that take a savory turn are part of the finish on this selection. This wine is lush and refreshing with solid, racy acidity.

This is a Rosé with a bit more heft than most. It’s fuller body and a bit of brighter fruit makes it a natural partner for more substantial foods than the average Rosé. That said, some of those same qualities make it very enjoyable to drink on it’s own as well. In either case a very refreshing and appealing Rosé whether you drink it as summer wanes or with Thanksgiving Dinner in a few months.

Trapiche - 2008 Broquel Malbec

Malbec has entered a phase in this country were most wine drinkers are well aware of it and more than likely have also tasted it. Many people drink it regularly as it’s become a go to choice for a lot of folks. And with it’s easy to like characteristics it’s easy to see why. But most of the Malbec people are drinking leans towards one style; wines whose most prominent feature is juicy up front fruit. Nothing wrong with that if you like it and there are bargains to be bad. But there are many other faces to Malbec. Today I’ll look at one from Trapiche. The Trapiche 2008 Broquel Malbec was made from fruit sourced at vineyards with 25 years of age on them. These vines sit between 900 and 1,200 meters above sea level. This wine is 100% Malbec. Fermentation took place in concrete vats over a period of 25 days. Barrel aging followed over 15 months in a combination of French and American oak. This wine has a suggested retail price of $18.

Boysenberry, blackberry and a wisp of vanilla are all apparent in the slightly reticent nose of this 2008 Malbec from Mendoza. There fruit flavors throughout the palate also lean towards the darker end of the spectrum with continued blackberry as well as black raspberry. Mineral, earth and a solid wallop of black pepper are all part of the finish along with dark, dusty baker’s chocolate notes. This wine has soft, lush tannins and solid acidity.

This Malbec from Trapiche is more austere than the average with tighter structure. While this wine is delicious today it’ll continue to be very enjoyable for the next 3-5 years. A nicely made Malbec.

Valentin Bianchi - 2009 Elsa Malbec

I’ve gone back to the wines of Valentin Bianchi relatively often. There’s a simple reason for that, I find they tend to over deliver on price and quality. There are certainly other producers who do this as well. But what impresses me with Bianchi is that they do it within each tier of their offerings. Today I’ll look at a release from the entry level Elsa tier. The Valentin Bianchi 2009 Elsa Malbec is a single vineyard offering made from fruit sourced at their Doña Elsa Estate vineyard. This selection is 100% Malbec. The Elsa Malbec was fermented in stainless steel and then saw a minimal amount of oak aging; one month of bottle aging followed prior to release. 15,000 cases of the 2009 vintage were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $8.99.

Dark berry, plum, vanilla and thyme aromas come together to form an appealing nose for this 2009 Malbec. The dark fruit theme continues in the palate where black plum flavors take center stage. Other dark fruit flavors chip in as well to a lesser degree, along with white pepper and a bit of cardamom. This Malbec has soft tannins, solid acidity and a medium length finish.

For $9, or a bit less if you shop around, the Elsa Malbec provides plenty of drinking pleasure. Year after year this is wine is a more than solid choice in entry level priced Malbec. When you’re looking for some tasty wine and a good deal to boot, keep Valentin Bianchi in mind, I do.

Graffigna - 2007 Centenario Malbec

Malbec stands as the signature grape of Argentina. Lots of other varietals flourish there but Malbec is the varietal that they do like no one else does and perhaps can. That said not every Malbec from Argentina is good. Consistency can be particularly difficult to achieve in the budget category that a lot of readily available Malbecs fall into. With that in mind I decided to take a look at one from Graffigna that I really enjoyed a previous vintage of. The Graffigna 2007 Centenario Malbec was made from fruit sourced in the Pedernal Valley of San Juan. This selection was produced using 100% Malbec. Hand harvesting was employed. Fermentation took place in stainless steel. Oak aging was accomplished over 12 months in a combination of French (50%) and American (50%) oak. After the lots were blended the wine was bottled aged for an additional sic months prior to release. The suggested retail price for this wine is $13.

Effusive blackberry Jam aromas are supported by gentle wisps of crème fraiche in the lively and fresh nose of this 2007 Malbec. The palate of this wine is loaded with blueberry and plum flavors among others. It really brings to mind a bowl of juicy, dark berry fruits. Sour berry compote, white pepper and minerals are all part of the medium length finish. This selection has soft tannins and sufficient acidity.

This offering from Graffigna shows off the exuberance that makes Malbec so pleasing and accessible to lots of folks. Additionally, this wine has a fair amount of structure. Most importantly for me though this wine shows a consistent amount of quality from the previous vintage. Considering that this wine is most often available for right around $10 this is a very good value.

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