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Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

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Elements by Artesa - 2006 Red Wine / 2007 Merlot / 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

One of the things about larger wineries that have lots of acreage under vine is that are often more grapes to work with. This can of course be an advantage on several levels. Primarily it allows the winemaker a wider selection from which to pick fruit for their most important wines. It can sometimes also allow the winemakers to take on projects outside the core releases. Such is the case with Carneros producer Artesa Vineyards & Winery. Those familiar with them know that Pinot Noir and Chardonnay stand at the heart of their operation. These are the core wines they focus on. But with hundreds of acres under vine they have many other grapes to work with. One of their current projects is the Elements by Artesa sub-label which they use to release some different varieties at a consumer friendly price-point. I recently tasted through the Elements releases and today I’ll look at three of my favorites. First up is the Elements by Artesa 2006 Red Wine. This wine blends together fruit from Sonoma County (65%) and Napa Valley (35%). The fruit is made up of Cabernet Sauvignon (23%), Tempranillo (22%), Merlot (20%), Malbec (18%), Garnacha (11%), Petite Sirah (2%), Petit Verdot (2%), Graciano (1%), and Cabernet Franc (1%). Barrel aging was accomplished over 24 months in French oak. 4,400 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

Wild strawberry fills the welcoming nose of this 2006 red blend. Recurring wisps of candied cherry provide a nice aromatic counterbalance. The lithe, medium bodied palate shows off red and black fruits such as currant, blackberry and cherry. Vanilla and cherry cola flavors are both in evidence on the finish. This wine has some bright fruit elements but those are balanced by good acidity, structure and nice length. Ultimately this is a perfectly dry wine built to pair with food. Whether that means Sunday dinner or Tuesday night with a slice of pizza is your call, either way lots of flavor for the price point.

Next up is the Elements by Artesa 2007 Merlot. This wine was produced using fruit sourced in both Sonoma (64%) and Napa (36%). In addition to Merlot (75%), Cabernet Franc (12%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), Petite Sirah (1%), Petit Verdot (1%) and Syrah (1%) are also blended in. Each lot was fermented and barrel aged separately, the final blend was assembled prior to bottling. 3,000 cases of this release were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

Red raspberry and rose petal aromas are both prominent in the nose of this 2007 Merlot.  This Merlot shows a juicy, yet balanced mid-palate which is also slightly austere in some ways. Lots of red and black cherry are on display throughout, along with bits of rhubarb. The finish shows off leather, sour cherry and copious spice elements in the form of clove, nutmeg and pepper. This wine has excellent structure and good acidity. Sad as this is to say there’s not a lot of Merlot in the $20 price range that actually tastes like Merlot, this one does and that alone is an accomplishment. Overall this is a nice value.

Finally today is the Elements by Artesa 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon. Just like the other releases, this wine is made from a combination of fruit sourced in Sonoma (62%), and Napa (38%). In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (86%), Merlot (7%), Cabernet Franc (4%), Petite Verdot (2%), and Malbec (1%) are also blended in. Barrel aging was accomplished over 24 months in French oak; 25% of the barrels were new. 8,000 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

A compote of red fruit aromas fills the nose of this Cabernet. Cherry, raspberry and strawberry are at the forefront with wisps of vanilla providing some nice secondary aromas. The palate is loaded with continued elements of red fruits. Juicy cherry and strawberry star along with lots of spice characteristics. Both black and white pepper emerge on the finish along with earth and dust characteristics as well as tobacco and espresso flavors. This wine has supple, yielding tannins and sufficient acidity. For around $20 you’re going to get a very tasty Cabernet Sauvignon that is best suited for short term drinking.

This trio of wines from Elements by Artesa provides plenty of pleasurable drinking for the price point. Equally important, the Merlot and Cabernet are true to their varietals. The blend, as it should, combines attributes from a diverse array of fruits to create something unique.

Swanson Vineyards - 2009 Pinot Grigio / 2007 Oakville Merlot / 2007 Alexis Cabernet Sauvignon

Swanson Vineyards has been in Napa Valley since 1985. In that time they’ve built a stellar reputation for a number of things. They’re perhaps best known for their Merlot which has been a consistent winner on restaurant wine lists and store shelves. Their Salon in Oakville is home to quite simply the very best tasting experience in Napa Valley, bar none. They have an impressive and eclectic lineup of dessert wines that rivals anything offered in the state of California.  Quite frankly that only begins the list of attributes that makes Swanson a must for any California wine lover. Today I’ll take a look at three of their current releases. These offerings represent their widest distribution wines which are available across the country. First up is the Swanson 2009 Pinot Grigio. Fruit for this release was sourced at the home estate on the Oakville Crossroad and in Santa Barbara. This wine was cold fermented and aged in stainless steel.  6,250 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $21. The nose of this wine shows of hints of honey which lead to scores of lychee and passion fruit. The palate of this wine is impressively layered and complex for its category. Stone fruits dominate along with hints of orchard fruit and an underlying citrus component. These all lead into the unctuous finish which has hints of orange, vanilla bean, and spice. The finish is crisp and refreshing, inviting you back for more. There is a lot of unimpressive Pinot Grigio both in California and all over the world quite frankly. The Swanson Pinot Grigio however is cut from a different cloth. Year after year, vintage after vintage, it impresses and blows away its price point. Is it the best Pinot Grigio in California? Taste it and decide for yourself. No question though, it’s in the running.

Next up is the Swanson 2007 Oakville Merlot. This wine was produced using fruit from two vineyards; Oakville Cross Road Estate and Schmidt Ranch. Barrel aging was accomplished over 20 months in French and American oak. 40% of the barrels were new. 9,200 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $36. Aromas of violet, leather and black cherry are all prominent in the nose of this 2007 Merlot. Cherry flavors dominate the palate along with raspberry and a touch of blackberry. Espresso, earth, dark dusty baker’s chocolate and a wallop of minerals fill the long and persistent finish. This wine has solid acidity and impressive structure. If you drink this Merlot over the next couple of years I’d recommend decanting it for about 90 minutes. However if you have some patience I’ve found that the Swanson Merlots really develop quite nicely in the bottle. To my own taste I think they really hit another level about 6 years from the vintage date. In any case this release underscores the fact that Swanson makes one of the very best Merlots in Napa Valley regardless of price point. You can call it a Cabernet lover’s Merlot if you like or point out its Bordeaux influence; I choose to simply call it my favorite Merlot.

Finally we come to the Swanson 2007 Alexis Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine was produced from fruit entirely sourced at the Schmidt Ranch in Napa Valley. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (81%), some Merlot (19%) is also blended in. Barrel aging took place over 22 months in all French oak; 60% of them were new. 500 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $75. Alexis started life as a proprietary blend of mostly Cabernet with a generous dollop of Syrah and Merlot blended in. A few vintages back it shifted gears a bit and became a varietal Cabernet Sauvignon. Black cherry aromas are prominent in the nose of this wine. A hint of vanilla bean and a touch of eucalyptus are present as well. The palate is loaded with deep, dark berry fruit flavors. Cherry is prominent here as well, along with blackberry and black raspberry. Dark chocolate and hints of kirsch liqueur emerge in the finish along with oodles of earth that keeps coming and coming. The finish on this Cabernet Sauvignon is impressive to say the least. It has length and structure to spare. This wine is delicious now, but it’s really just a baby. If you’re patient and have proper storage conditions I would recommend laying it down for about 10 years and drinking it in the 5 or so years that follow. There’s a lot of very good Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa Valley. Alexis from Swanson is one of the very best in it’s price category. And while $75 may not be an everyday bottle for most, this is an excellent choice to tuck away for special occasions.

If you’ve waited until the last-minute, these wines from Swanson make for elegant and delicious gifts. However they’re far more than that. This is a dependable and impressive trio of wines that is consistent in quality year after year. They’re available all over the country and will offer lots of drinking pleasure. They’re also quite likely to impress your dinner quests or the lucky recipient if you buy them as gifts. I’ve been drinking the Swanson wines for over a decade and I’m always excited to revisit them whenever the opportunity arises. That’s something I can only say about a handful of producers.

Chilcas - 2008 Reserva Merlot / Ecos de Rulo - 2007 Bisquertt Merlot Gran Reserve

I love Merlot. There I've done it, I’m taking sides with a variety that a lot of people seem to have a strong aversion to. Here’s the dirty secret about that though, there’s quite a bit of really good Merlot made in many wine regions throughout the world. That said there’s also a lot of Merlot I would have no desire to drink. Due to some industrial tasting Merlot, and a little movie that bashed Merlot as much as it praised Pinot Noir a lot of wine drinkers have taken to drinking anything but Merlot. For my money they’re missing out. Today I’ll look at two terrific, well priced examples from Chile. First up is the Chilcas 2008 Reserva Merlot 2008. The fruit for this wine was sourced near the winery which sits adjacent to the Descabezado Volcano. There they have just fewer than 1,000 acres. This includes vineyard land, physical winery, bottling plant, and their offices. This wine is 100% Merlot and has a suggested retail price of $13.

The nose of this Merlot shows of a bit of an herbaceous quality, following that is an onslaught of dark fruit flavors. The dark fruit theme continues through the palate where cherry and blackberry along with a host of other flavors rule the day. Pencil lead, minerals, black pepper and earth are all part of an above average and layered finish. This wine has chewy tannins and good overall structure. For $13 this wine shows excellent varietal character and is a very good value.

The second wine is the Ecos de Rulo 2007 Bisquertt Merlot Gran Reserve. This wine was made using fruit sourced in the Colchagua Valley. In addition to Merlot (90%), this wine has 10% Petit Verdot blended in. Barrel aging occurred over 12 months in French oak; three months of bottle aging followed. This offering has a suggested retail price of $16.

Blueberry aromas explode from the nose of this 2007 Merlot. They’re joined by hints of vanilla, thyme and a touch of toast. Blackberry, black raspberry, huckleberry, and continued blueberry are all part of a veritable avalanche of dark fruit flavors which dominate the palate of this Merlot.  Espresso, hints of earth and a dollop of brown sugar all emerge in the finish which has excellent length. This wine shows of medium tannins and nice structure. At $16 it also shows off true Varietal character and is a terrific value.

If you haven’t been drinking Merlot, it’s time to start again. If you have been drinking it along here are a couple of offerings that over-deliver in their category. In any case you can’t miss with these two wines from Chile. This is a country which continues to be one to look to time and again for distinct wines that deliver more quality than their price points indicate in many instances.

Rodney Strong - 2007 Symmetry Red Meritage

Whether it’s a $10 bottle or a $75 bottle I’ve found that the wines Rodney Strong puts their name on represent solid or better values in just about every case. If you enjoy wines from Sonoma County they’re a producer you should be familiar with as they offer many go to options, for everyday drinking, as well as plenty of wines appropriate for special occasions or cellaring. Today I’ll look at their latest Meritage. The Rodney Strong 2007 Symmetry is a red Meritage wine. Fruit for this wine was sourced in Alexander Valley. This offering is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (85%), Malbec (10%), Merlot (3%), Cabernet Franc (1%) and Petit Verdot (1%). Aging occurred over 26 months in exclusively French oak barrels. This wine has a suggested retail price of $55.

Aromas of blackberry, black raspberry, toasty oak and a hint of pine are all present in the nose of this 2007 Meritage. Cassis and continued blackberry characteristics are apparent through the palate. The story these flavors tell is quite dark and brooding with impressive depth and layer after layer of juicy flavor. Plum pudding spice notes are in evidence midway through and carry to the finish which also shows off lots of dark sweet chocolate, espresso and hints of emerging earth. This wine has firm tannins and fine acidity. I tasted this wine over 3 consecutive days. Each time I went back to the open bottle it had undergone a continuing positive evolution. If you’re drinking it now, pair it with something substantial for best results.

Symmetry is delicious today, particularly if you decant it for a couple of hours, but time will only help this wine. I would recommend this 2007 release from Rodney Strong as something you might like to tuck a couple of bottles of away in your cellar. Then come back to them down the road apiece, perhaps 5 or 10 years and you’ll find you have an even more harmonious wine on your hands. In either case Symmetry is an excellent example of what can be achieved in Alexander Valley with Bordeaux varietals.

Cakebread Cellars - 2006 Dancing Bear Ranch

Cakebread Cellars has been in operation in Napa Valley since 1973. With vineyards spread over a host of appellations they have more than 450 acres under vine in a handful of prime Napa Valley locations. They started out making Chardonnay in their first vintage and that as well as Sauvignon Blanc remain amongst their best known offerings year after year. However their portfolio includes a growing stable of well made reds. That includes no less than 3 distinct Cabernet Sauvignons. Today I’ll look at their Bordeaux inspired blend from Howell Mountain. The Cakebread Cellars 2006 Dancing Bear Ranch was produced using fruit sourced at their estate vineyard on Howell Mountain. The Dancing Bear Ranch is comprised of 200 acres; just fewer than 30 are under vine. This vineyard was planted in 1999. This offering is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (79%), Merlot (17%), and Cabernet Franc (4%). This wine was fermented in stainless steel and barrel aging occurred in French oak over 26 months; 60% of the barrels were new. 2,500 cases of this selection were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $105.

The nose of this wine is a touch reticent at first. But as it gets some air, aromas of bramble, blackberry, thyme and vanilla emerge. Cherry flavors are prominent on the palate and they’re underscored by solid wallops of fig and dark berry flavors as well as a host of spices such as white and black pepper. All of these come together to form a pure burst of flavor that showcases the unadulterated intensity of mountain fruit. Pencil lead, espresso, earth and mineral notes all emerge on the lengthy, layered and rather impressive finish of this wine. This release has firm tannins and solid acidity.

I really like this estate blend from Cakebread Cellars, but it’s still in its infancy. Dancing Bear Ranch is a wine you’re going to want to lay down for maximum enjoyment. However if you’re going to drink it now, I’d recommend decanting it for a solid 5-6 hours as well as pairing it with hearty fare. I went back to this wine after it had been open for a full 24 hours and it was even more impressive than it had been on night one. But if you’re patient, lay this beauty down in your cellar for a decade or so and then pull it out for a special occasion over the following 6-8 years and you’ll be in for some serious gratification. Either way this is a well made wine showcasing it’s pedigree of serious Howell Mountain fruit. This is a terrific addition to the Cakebread line.

Two Angels - 2007 Angel's Secret Merlot / 2007 Mayacamus Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

Most of what Bob Pepi touches turns to Gold. You can call that bias on my part if you like; I prefer to think of it as recognizing a master for what he is. Bob has a consistent track record of hands on winemaking and consulting the world over. He came to prominence with his family’s namesake wines; a company they later sold. Today he works on a host of different projects. One of them is Two Angels, essentially a private label of importer and distributor Quintessential Wines. I’ve been taken by some of their previous releases and today I'm going to look at two selections from the 2007 vintage. First is the Angel’s Secret 2007 Merlot. The fruit for this wine was sourced at vineyards located on the Mayacamus Mountains.  This range of mountains runs right between Sonoma and Napa Valley. In addition to Merlot (94%) there is a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon (6%) blended in as well. Barrel aging occurred over 20 in a combination of new, (40%) and used, (60%) French, (90%) and American (10%) oak. Just fewer than 800 cases of this Merlot were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $16.99.

Aromas of violet and cherry are underscored by a touch of thyme in the slightly austere nose of this 2007 Merlot. Dried fruit flavors rule the day throughout the gloriously dry palate of this wine; cherry, blueberry and wild strawberry are in strong evidence. A layer of spices led by cinnamon kicks in and leads the way to the finish. Earth, a drove of mineral notes and a hint of charcoal all emerge in the above average finish. This wine has medium tannins and solid acidity.

What I absolutely love about this Merlot is that it is made in what I consider to be the correct style for this grape. It has structure, acidity and length without sacrificing very enjoyable fruit flavors. This is a wine that excels when paired with food.

The second wine is the Two Angels 2007 Mayacamus Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon. As the name indicates the fruit for this wine was sourced near the top of the Mayacamus Mountains. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (78%), the offering also has a generous helping of Merlot (22%) blended in. Barrel aging was accomplished over 18 months; 85% in French oak (40% new). The rest was aged in new American barrels. Just over 1,500 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $27.99.

Brambly fruit, vanilla and cream aromas all emerge in the nose of this Cabernet Sauvignon. The palate features a bevy of sweet berry fruit flavors; cherry, raspberry (red and black), boysenberry and blackberry flavors are all in strong evidence. A touch of kirsch liqueur emerges and leads to the finish which shows off pomegranate, roasted coffee bean and pepper notes. This wine has lush tannins and more than sufficient acidity.

This Cabernet is absolutely terrific on its own but will also pair with full flavored foods.  Enjoy this wine over the next 3-5 years for best and most enjoyable results. The bottom line is that these selections represent two more outstanding wines from the hands of Bob Pepi.

Luce della Vite - 2007 Lucente

When it comes to red wine from Tuscany the first thing that springs to mind is Sangiovese. That Italian grape is responsible for some of the world’s very best wines. For a number of years now international varietals have of course also made a foothold there. Today I’ll look at a blend that combines the local and the international; most often these are referred to as Super Tuscans. The Luce della Vite 2007 Lucente was produced using grapes sourced in the Montalcino section of Tuscany. This blend is made up of Merlot (50%), Sangiovese (35%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (15%). Fermentation took place in stainless steel. Barrel aging was accomplished over 12 months in a combination of French and American oak; 60% of the barrels were new. 213,000 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $29.99.

Violets, dark cherry and thyme scents all emerge in the nose of this wine. Those aromas are a bit reticent at first but really come into their own as the wine opens up. So too with the palate, and about an hour in the decanter is heartily recommended to get the most from this offering. There is an absolute avalanche of dried fruit flavors present throughout the palate; both red and black reference point are included. Black pepper spice plays a role here as well and leads to the finish which shows off a terrific amount of prominent earth as well as lesser forceful espresso characteristics. Dusty cocoa notes close things out with a final flourish. This wine has excellent acidity and firm but yielding tannins.

This is a case of the Super Tuscan model working very well. The international varieties play a vital role, but never overshadow the Sangiovese, which is at the core of this wine even though it’s only 35% of the blend. At the end of the day this is a interesting wine that is both stylish and elegant in approach and overall mouth-feel. Pair this with any number of classic Italian dishes for a terrific match. Available in the mid $20’s if you shop around, this is a solid value.

Blackstone - 2007 Sonoma Reserve Merlot

Blackstone Winery is perhaps best known for the California Merlot they produce in large quantities; there are quite a few other selections in their line. With their Sonoma Reserve tier of wines Blackstone has aimed to offer alternatives to their budget friendly line of wines. Today I’ll look at the Merlot in their Sonoma Reserve series and see how it stacks up both on its own and as a counterpart to their more ubiquitous release of the same grape. The 2007 Blackstone Sonoma Reserve Merlot was produced from fruit sourced in Alexander Valley (45%), Dry Creek Valley (22%), Sonoma Coast (15%), Carneros (10%), Sonoma Valley (2%), and San Joaquin County (6%). The fruit for this wine was handpicked. In addition to Merlot (85%), Cabernet Sauvignon (7%), Ruby Cabernet (6%), and Petit Verdot (2%) were blended in. Barrel aging occurred over a period of 20 months in a combination of French, American and Hungarian oak; both new and older barrels were utilized. 27,000 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $20.

First off I should mention that I found that this 2007 Merlot really benefits from aeration. An hour in the decanter really helped it come to life and shine. Blackberry and boysenberry pie aromas fill the extroverted nose of this wine along with hints of chocolate. The berry theme continues through the palate though it’s supplanted by vibrant red cherry notes as they take the lead role. Tons of earth, chicory, and dark, dusty baker’s chocolate emerge in the finish. This wine has a fine tannic structure and solid acidity.

The 2007 Blackstone Sonoma Reserve Merlot is a solid wine for the money. If you normally drink their California Merlot you’ll find that this is a couple of steps up in complexity, structure and length. With 27,000 cases out there it won’t be hard to find either.

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Urraca - 2007 Familia Langley Reserva

It was just about a year ago that I first tasted the offerings from Argentine producer Urraca Wines. Since then I’ve gone back to them several times and been impressed each time with their overall portfolio. Their wines hit a different segment of the Argentine wine imports than most. Within the vast number of wines from Argentina, the majority on US shelves are value based. Some of those values are outstanding and provide quality and some are generic. What Urraca does from the get go is to aim higher. They start at a premium level and then also make super-premium offerings. So while the least expensive wine you’re going to find from them is in the mid to high teens, there is value to be had. Today I’m going to look at the current release of their flagship wine. This wine is certainly within the super-premium category. The question is does it still deliver value, or even a bargain, in its price point.

The Urraca 2007 Familia Langley Reserva is made using fruit from the Mendoza region of Argentina. The proprietary blend is composed of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Malbec (30%), and Merlot (30%). Barrel aging was accomplished over 18 months in a combination of French and American oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is approximately $70.

A potpourri of dark berry aromas lead the exuberant nose of this 2007 blend. Blackberry and cherry (both red and black) intermingle along with lots of white pepper and hints of nutmeg throughout the palate of this selection. This wine has serious length. The impressive finish is marked my minerals, earth, black pepper and a hints of charcoal. This wine has firm tannins that soften in the glass. Excellent acidity provides the framework and keeps everything in check.

There are three things which I find equally impressive about this wine. First and quite importantly is its consistency. I was blown away by the 2005 version of this wine and was quite curious to see how the 2007 edition would stack up. Nothing to worry about there, the 2007 is every bit as impressive. The second thing that struck me is the tremendous level of even-keeled intensity that this wine displays from the first sip through the long finish. There are a lot of wines that hit you up front with big fruit and then the flavor drops as if it fell from a cliff. While this wine has little peaks and valleys, it manages to maintain a notable level of complex, layered and concentrated flavors throughout. The third thing that impresses me is the finish on the Familia Langley, which is noteworthy in length.

If you’re going to drink this wine in the short term, decanting for an hour or two is strongly recommended. However if you’re patient and can lay it down for a few years, you will be rewarded by a wine that will show plenty of positive evolution. Yes this wine is $70, and yes for that money it’s still, very much, an excellent value. It compares favorably to many blends from a number of regions of the world that hit the triple digit price point.

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Cinnabar Winery - 2007 Paso Robles Merlot

Merlot is easily one of the most maligned varietals of the last decade. The film Sideways did little to help its cause. But in my opinion what hurt Merlot’s reputation more was the sea of insipid examples out there. For every excellent Merlot there’s one that’s sweet, flabby and worst of all innocuous. There’s nothing more discouraging than drinking a wine and being unable to distinguish what varietal it is. Thankfully though, along with the solid examples that have always been out there, the tide seems to have shifted a bit. More and more of the Merlot’s I’ve tasted, in a wide array of price categories, from all over the world, actually taste like what they are. Today I’ll look at an example from Cinnabar Winery. The Cinnabar Winery 2007 Merlot I made from fruit sourced in two sections of Paso Robles. 95% of the wine is Merlot with 5% Petit Verdot blended in as well. Barrel aging was accomplished over 16 months in a combination of American and Hungarian oak; 15% were new. The suggested retail price for this wine is $21.

Dark fruit aromas with an undercurrent of jam fill the inviting nose of this Paso Robles Merlot. Blackberry pie, cherry and plum pudding spice notes are the most prominent parts of the full flavored palate. Chocolate notes as well as hints of graham cracker emerge on the finish which has yielding tannins, good length and a velvety mouth feel. Solid acidity keeps everything in check.

I like this Merlot a lot for a couple of reasons. Most importantly it’s true to the varietal. Secondly it’s a fine example of Paso Robles wine. The combination of fruit from two distinct areas in Paso helps keeps things balanced and provides for a style that shows both the big fruit that Paso is known for as well as the proportion that can be achieved. A nice value.

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Château Larose-Trintaudon - 2004 Haut-Médoc

A lot of people I know drink New World Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with great regularity. When it comes to Old World examples many friends I know seem a bit timid. There is definitely a perception out there that French and Italian wines specifically are very expensive. And while there are certainly lots of well regarded and highly priced wines out there, both countries features many excellent wines that are affordable to wide audiences for everyday drinking. Today I’ll look at such a wine from Bordeaux. The Château Larose-Trintaudon Haut-Médoc 2004 is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot (40%). Barrel aging occurred in 100% French oak.  The suggested retail price for this wine is $17.95

Dark fruit aromas are the embodiment of this Bordeaux’s nose. These are joined by wisps of smoked meat and some toasty oak notes. Cherry leads the palate which features a persistent core of dried fruit notes. Cranberry and plum feature in notably as well. These dark, dry fruit characteristics are underscored by hints of licorice that lead to the finish. Espresso, loads of earth and black pepper notes are the most outstanding characteristics of the notable finish. This wine has firm tannins and excellent acidity.

This Bordeaux Blend from Château Larose-Trintaudon is a very nice value and a terrific wine. If you drink New World Cabernet or Merlot in the $20 price range you’re likely to find that this wine will compare favorably in quality and enjoyment. Shrewd shoppers will find that this wine is most often available right around $15. If you haven’t made the leap to the Old World yet, here’s a fine place to start.

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Cameron Hughes - 2005 Lot 112 Napa County Merlot

btl_lot_112There’s no question in my mind that the Merlot grape can make some of the best wines in the world. On the other hand there are also some wines out there labeled Merlot that taste like anything but. Additionally, I’ve become pretty confident that the wines négociant Cameron Hughes is sourcing and releasing are going to be solid values. So it was with all those thoughts swirling in my head that I prepared to taste one of their current release Merlots. The Cameron Hughes 2005 Lot 112 Merlot is made from fruit sourced in two Napa County regions; Coombsville and Jamieson Canyon. While neither is officially considered a distinct appellation I know there has been plenty of thought that Coombsville will be soon. This wine is 100% Merlot. 4,700 cases of this offering were released and the suggested retail price is $12.

Blueberry, plum, and violet notes highlight the nose of this 2005 Merlot. Hints of vanilla bean are also present. The fruit on the palate leans towards red flavors with wild strawberry, cherry and raspberry in the forefront along with black pepper. Chocolate and earth emerge on the finish along with hints of dried cherry and plum. This wine has yielding tannins and good acidity.

The Lot 112 Merlot is another strong argument that price-point shouldn’t play a role in the decision to decant or not. A solid hour in the decanter really helped this selection open up. Once it did this Merlot showed itself to be both true to its varietal and also very tasty overall. For $12 this is another very nice value in the Cameron Hughes Lot Series.

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Purple Cowboy - 2007 Night Rider Merlot

purple_cowboy_merlotI find wine offerings in the everyday drinking range of interest. It’s easy (relatively speaking) to walk into a wine shop and spend a premium to get a slam dunk bottle of wine. Occasions and moods sometimes call for just that. But most of the time it’s interesting to experiment and see what’s out there that can be had for a song. The wines from Purple Cowboy hit my radar and I was curious to see what they tasted like.  Paso Robles fruit tends to pique my curiosity and the packaging matches the sort of “fun” one looks for at this price point. On top of all that there’s a charitable angle. Terry Wheatley the founder of this label is a breast cancer survivor. She comes from a family of ranchers and rodeo riders/cowboys. She also co-founded Tough Enough To Wear Pink. $1 from every case of the Purple Cowboy wines purchased (up to $100,000 in 2009-2010) goes directly to this organization. Their goal is helping rodeo organizations raise awareness of breast cancer. They urge Rodeo riders to compete wearing pink which helps focus attention and raise money. Today I’ll look at their Merlot. The 2007 Purple Cowboy Night Rider Merlot is made from all Paso Robles fruit. This offering is a blend of Merlot (95%), Cabernet Sauvignon (3%) and mixed reds (2%). Fermentation occurred in stainless steel followed by barrel aging for part of the blend. The suggested retail price for this wine is $12.

Blueberry fills the nose of this wine, and vanilla bean underscores it. The palate is a deep, dark quagmire of plums, blueberry and dark cherry. These flavors all come together to form a bruising collection of flavors that lead to a finish that features more sweet fruit and dark luscious chocolate notes. This wine has yielding tannins and good acidity. Pair this with anything that comes off of your grill or a bucket of chicken you pick up from Colonel Sanders.

In the $12 price range I want a wine that tastes like what it’s supposed to. As simple as that sounds many wines in the budget range (huge category of course) taste like anything but what the varietal label says. Purple Cowboy is very obviously Merlot. In addition to that varietal correctness it’s also got a fair level of complexity. This wine also has a flavor profile that’s going to appeal to the masses. Its clear ability to pair with a wide range of casual foods won’t hurt either. So if you’re looking for something to open on a random Tuesday night or to bring to a friends home for a BBQ or other laid back function, Purple Cowboy is a good bet. You can also feel good knowing you’ll help raise some money for a good cause.

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Hess Collection - 2006 19 Block Cuvée

hess 19 blockI’ve been fond of wines form Mount Veeder for many years now. But over the last year I’ve made a more concerted effort to try more of them. While I think a wide array of varietals shine up on Mt. Veeder the classic Bordeaux grapes are amongst those I feel stand out most often. Today I’m going to take a look at a selection from Hess Collection. They’re the largest winery on Mt Veeder by case production. Within their size though they do a wide variety of things; both small and large production wines are part of their portfolio. Their estate boasts 310 acres of vineyards which are sustainably farmed. Today I’ll look at one of their blends. The Hess Collection 2006 19 Block Cuvée is produced from estate fruit. The vineyard site the fruit was sourced from ranges in altitude from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. Fruit was selected from 19 blocks within the vineyard, thus the name of the wine. This selection is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (69%), Malbec (11%), Syrah (10%), Merlot (5%), Petit Verdot (3%) and Cabernet Franc (2%). Oak aging was accomplished over 18 months in French oak; 50% of the barrels were new. Just over 14,000 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $35.

Leather and cherry notes are prominent on the nose of this Mt. Veeder blend. A host of berry fruit, (particularly blackberry) along with spice, and cigar box are part of the palate. Somewhere around mind-palate, dark, rich unsweetened chocolate notes kick in. The finish is nice and lengthy with black pepper, mineral notes and cherry that keeps echoing. This wine has a firm tannic structure that softens with some air, as well as firm acidity.

This is a very well rounded wine. While this selction is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, the other varietals shine through and create a very cohesive blend that makes this offering a clear case of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts. Though this wine also includes Syrah, stylistically it drinks like a Napa Valley Bordeaux or Meritage style blend. For a suggested retail price of $35 this wine over delivers in spades. With over 14,000 cases made it should be easy to locate too.

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Moon Mountain Vineyard - 2000 Estate Merlot

I remember the first time I visited Moon Mountain Vineyard in Sonoma prettyMMmerlot distinctly. It was November of 1998; and it was still called Carmenet Winery. I went with my friend Dave with whom I write the website Drink Dry Creek. We were both impressed with the wines and the facility. It became somewhat of a regular stop for me. Their benchmark wine at the time was their Meritage; a Bordeaux style blend. Today it’s labeled as a Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. I believe the intent is the same. In any case they make small quantities of the components that made up the blend. Today I’ll look at such a release from the 2000 Vintage. The 2000 Moon Mountain Vineyard Merlot was produced from fruit in the Feather Block of their Estate Vineyard. This sits on the southwest side of Mount Veeder at a 1,700 foot elevation. The offering is 100% Merlot. Oak aging was accomplished over 21 months in French Barrels. A mere 196 cases of this offering were produced. At release this wine sold for approximately $30.

I recall tucking this Merlot away about 5 years ago and thinking it would have a really positive evolution with some time in the bottle. So when I popped the cork, more than anything, I was curious if it turned out that way or not. The nose of this Merlot was filled with violets, blackberries and subtle plum notes. The palate still had quite a bit of fruit, but it was softer, and more restrained than it had been on release; becoming lush and smooth. Touches of pencil lead emerged, leading to a finish that was loaded with earth, mineral notes, black tea and dusty cocoa. This wine still had good structure and fine acidity.

This is a beautiful expression of well made Merlot produced from Mountain fruit. I was glad to see that time in the bottle served it well. Of course now I wish I had a case of it tucked away, but alas I do not.

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Lucas & Lewellen Vineyards - "Silver King" Port

ll-portI drink dessert wine pretty regularly. Most often it's Tawny or Late Bottled Port from Portugal. After that I'm always curious to taste the different styles of Ports and Dessert wines being made in California. When it comes to the Golden State I most often think of Late Harvest Zinfandel. That style seems to be the most ubiquitous expression in California; not surprising when you consider how much Zin there is. The last few years though I've run across a solid handful of folks making Dessert Wine or Port with Merlot. I was a bit dubious at first, but then I had the chance to taste a couple and I found there are some interesting offerings out there. Today I'll look at one from Lucas & Lewellen. The Lucas & Lewellen "Silver King" Port is produced using Merlot grapes sourced at their Los Alamos Vineyards. To that juice, neutral grape spirits are added. 312 cases of this wine were produced. It's available in 375 ml bottles for $20.

As soon as I poured this wine my senses were engulfed with deep, dark, cherry pie aromas. Chocolate dipped fruitcake notes were plentiful throughout the palate along with bountiful black cherry characteristics that kept resonating. The finish of this Port had a touch of perceptible heat. In this particular case it worked really well and provided hints of Cherry Liqueur. That finish coated the back of my throat with a thick honey-like consistency in it's mouth-feel. This wine could easily have been dessert on its own. I paired it with dark chocolate covered biscotti and found that to be a ridiculously delicious match.

What I like best about this particular port is that it's unique. While the number of dessert wines made from Merlot is increasing it's still a small segment of the whole. The fact that it stands out from the pack is reason enough to seek it out so you can have a different experience. The main reason though is that it's well made and delicious.

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Urraca - 2005 Familia Langley Reserva

Many well known wine regions make blends inspired by the well known examples that come out of Bordeaux. These can fall flat when the urracawinery in question is simply trying to imitate a style. However when a producer aspires to make the best blend possible with the fruit available to them, all the while showing off their terroir, they have a much better chance of hitting the mark. Today I'll look at the third wine from Urraca, which is a Bordeaux style blend. The 2005 Urraca Familia Langley Reserva is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (36%), Malbec (36%), Cabernet Franc (17%) and Merlot (11%). Oak aging was accomplished in a combination of French and American barrels over a period of 18 months. The suggested retail price for this offering is $72.

Leather, vanilla, dark brooding berry and hints of espresso bean are all present in the nose. Lots of plum, blueberry, and a host of dark, ripe, heady berry fruit are prominent throughout the full bodied palate along with plum pudding spice. Sweet dark chocolate notes, black tea, mineral, white pepper, cigar-box and ever emerging earth characteristics come together to form an impressively lengthy finish. This blend has chewy tannins, good acidity and excellent overall structure. Pair it with big, bold foods that can match it's combination of power and elegance. The blend may be made of Old World components, but this is very much a New World wine.

As was the case with the 2005 Primera this wine should be decanted for maximum enjoyment if you're going to drink it in the next couple of years. My advice however is to tuck this away in your cellar and forget about if for the next 5 years or so. Then dig it out and drink it sometime over the next 8-10 years. The Urraca wines I have had are all excellent, well made, "high end" offerings. There are a ton of well priced, well made wines coming from South America in general and Argentina specifically. many of these offer value, and sufficient complexity for everyday drinking. The wines from Urraca aim for a different goal, they shoot for greatness. These delicious, complex wines meet their goal. In my opinion these offerings stand with a handful of other Argentine producers as examples of the best wines they offer.

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Urraca - 2005 Primera

urraca-primeraMalbec is more closely identified with Argentina than any other single grape variety. There's good reason for that; while it’s made elsewhere Malbec absolutely flourishes and reaches its apex there. The wide array of styles in which Malbec is made reminds me of how diverse Zinfandel can be in California. Some choose to make it brash and exuberant while others go for more of a refined and elegant style. Each has its benefits. Not surprisingly Urraca Wines has more acres of Malbec under vine than any other varietal. Cabernet Sauvignon is a close second however. Today I’ll look at one of their Malbec based blends.

The 2005 Urraca Primera is a blend of Malbec (70%) and Merlot (30%). Oak treatment was accomplished with 18 months in a combination of French and American barrels. The suggested retail price for this offering is $37.

I highly recommend decanting this selection if you’re going to be drinking it over the next couple of years. An hour is very helpful, and closer to two hours would be even better. Once it’s had that chance to breathe this wine starts really expressing itself. The intoxicating nose features blueberry, plum and violets along with touches of cedar. There is a terrific purity of fruit through the palate that can not help itself but impress as it is intense, layered and just downright delicious. Black cherries are the most prominent along with additional berry fruits as well as fruitcake spice. Chocolate, hints of pencil lead and plenty of earth emerge on the long, persistent finish. Black and white pepper note linger so long them seem like they’ll never stop coming. This offering has firm tannins and excellent acidity. Roasted meats or game will be a natural match for this blend.

There are several things that impress me about this wine. The intense and pure fruit I mentioned above is one. The other is the fact that this blend is a perfect combination of characteristics. The Malbec shows its hedonistic, brash nature, and the Merlot provides backbone and structure. This is a tremendous wine that deserves and demands attention. Not an offering you want to rush to drink, rather one to contemplate over a nice meal with friends who will be lucky that you shared this Argentine powerhouse with them.

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Blackstone - 2006 Merlot

Some wines are so ubiquitous that it strikes me as interesting to check in with them from time to time. My purpose in doing this is two-fold. On bmerlot-labelthe one hand I'm just curious to see how a wine is tasting from vintage to vintage. And on the other I'm always interested to taste something that has mass popularity; looking at that as a bit of a barometer of the general tastes of the average consumer. While not particularly scientific, it does fascinate me. Blackstome Merlot is such a case. For quite a number of years now this wine has been incredibly popular on store shelves, and in restaurants. I know that for many years this wine was the most popular Merlot in restaurants, it may still be the case but I'm not sure. The 2006 Blackstone Winery Merlot carries a California designation. Fruit was sourced in a number of counties, Monterey at 58% was the most represented. The fruit is a blend of Merlot (85%), Syrah (9%), Cabernet Franc (2%), Cabernet Sauvignon (2%), Malbec (1%), and Petite Verdot (1%). French and American oak barrels were used to age 30% of the wine. While the suggested retail price is $12, this wine is widely available for between $8 and $10.

Ripe berry with a little lilt of jam fills the nose of this Merlot along with subtle violet and vanilla notes. Throughout the palate dark fruit notes such as blackberry, black cherry and plum are prominent. The medium length finish brings out white pepper spice and a touch of sour cherry. Overall this wine is approachable with a soft mouth-feel and gentle tannins. A grilled burger is the classic match for this wine.

The bottom line for me with the Blackstone Merlot is that it's widely available and very reasonably priced. I find it to be a step up from the Yellowtails of the world in terms of varietal correctness and overall drinking pleasure. The fruit is perhaps a bit brighter than what I find in my favorite Merlots. But those aren't available for $8 and aren't necessarily made to satisfy a large gathering. For me that's the appeal of the Blackstone Merlot. if you have a BBQ or party a lot of people who will drink a glass of wine but don't necessarily spend countless hours obsessing over it are going to enjoy it. And the ones that do obsess over it, they'll be glad it does in fact taste like Merlot.

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Robert Oatley Vineyards - 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot

Blends always fascinate me. I always find it interesting to discover if when several oatleycomponents come together, they're greater than the sum of the parts. In Australia blending Cabernet Sauvignon with Shiraz is very popular. So much so that it seems to have influenced producers in other regions to follow suit. When they're done well, they can be intriguing blends, with both varietals strutting their stuff, so to speak. The blend I'm looking at today is from Australia, but it's not Cabernet and Shiraz. The 2007 Robert Oatley Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot is sourced in Mudgee, New South Wales. This is a blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance Merlot. It was aged for 12 months in French oak. Each varietal was harvested, fermented and barrel aged separately before blending and bottling. 5,600 cases of this wine, finished in Screw Cap, were produced. The suggested retail price is $20.

The nose of this wine is filled with bright red cherry notes and a hint of vanilla. Throughout the palate this wine is lush and mouth-filling with balanced fruit flavors from each varietal shining through. Black pepper and hints of sour cherry emerge on the finish which is above average in length. This wine has very good acidity and gentle, yielding tannins. This Cab/Merlot blend will be a good match for a wide array of foods.

What I like about this wine is that is shows off a side of Australian Wine that some folks never think of. Big, bold Shiraz is the Australian calling card, and with good reason, they make a lot of great ones. Here's a look however at a wine that defies that flavor profile and offers good complexity in a gentler, approachable, food friendly package.

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