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Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

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Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris

A Global Trio For Valentine's Day

Valentine’s Day is here and to help celebrate the day in style some delicious wine is in order. When organizing a special occasion or Holiday meal I like to plan for several wines for each stage of the day. Certainly if you’re going to spend Valentine’s Day with someone important in your life each part of that celebration should have a wine to go with it. So today I’m presenting a trio of wines that will make for delicious drinking on Valentine’s Day or any other time. It also doesn’t hurt that each of the wines I’m recommending are modestly priced compared to the value they offer. To start off with you’ll want a wine that’s appropriate to settle in to the day. Something light, yet substantial in flavor, which also pairs as easily with conversation as it does appetizers. My selection is the Graffigna Centenario 2009 Pinot Grigio. This Argentine wine was produced using fruit sourced in the Tulum Valley of San Juan. It’s composed of 100% Pinot Grigio and was fermented in stainless steel. The suggested retail price for this wine is $13.

Mango, citrus and vanilla aromas fill the nose of this Pinot Grigio along with underlying elements of spice. These themes continue through the palate along with apricot and tropical fruit characteristics. Spices kick into full gear with white pepper, nutmeg and vanilla bean amongst the most prominent. Around mid-palate sour tangerine notes emerge and continue through the finish which includes additional wisps of vanilla and peach flavors that linger. Excellent acidity keeps everything in check.

This is a very fresh and lively Pinot Grigio. I’ve found this wine to be consistently delicious over the last several vintages. For $13 (less if you shop around), this wine is an excellent value. It’s going to be a great way to get your Valentine’s Day celebration started.

The second wine you’re going to need is something to pair with the main part of your meal. On these occasions I look for something that will complement a wide array of foods. My tendency is also to look for something with a lush mouth-feel that lends itself to easy drinkability while also providing complexity. My selection this time out is the Campo Viejo 2005 Reserva. This wine is made from fruit sourced in the Rioja region of Spain. As is typical in Rioja this wine was produced primarily from Tempranillo (85%). The balance is made up of indigenous varietals Graciano (10%), and Mazuelo (5%). Barrel aging was accomplished over 18 months in a combination of French and American oak. This wine spent an additional 18 months in bottle prior to release. The suggested retail price for this wine is $14.

Cedar, cherry and wild strawberry lead the nose of this 2005 Reserva from Spain. Cherry continues through the palate along with vanilla, blackberry and hints of smoke. Black pepper notes emerge prominently and lead to the finish which is marked by copious amounts of sour cherry, tobacco, leather, spice box and emerging earth reference points. This wine has medium tannins and very well balanced acidity.

This Rioja is another excellent value and it hits the marks I’m looking for. It has sufficient complexity and will pair with many foods while going down smoothly. It’s wide availability also makes it an easy selection to reach for in a pinch.

The third wine I plan for on a special day is a closer of sorts. It can be a dessert wine but doesn’t have to be. Sparkling Wine could work as well. But it should be something that can pair with your dessert and that you’ll want to continue drinking when dessert is over.  The dessert wine that I recently tasted and was inspired to report on is the Jaboulet Muscat de Beaumes de Venise “Le Chant des Groilles” 2007. This offering is from the Rhone Valley and was produced using only Muscat grapes. Aging was accomplished in cask followed by time in bottle. The suggested retail price for this wine in 375 ml splits is $24.99.

White peach, lychee and mango lead the effusive nose of this wine. Apricots are the star of the palate which has a sweet, honeyed characteristic to it. This is joined by lots of tropical fruit that’s also got a layer of vanilla bean. It all leads to a lengthy finish marked by excellent spice. This wine is very well balanced and shows off good acidity.

The problem with many dessert wines is that they’re too sweet to drink very much of. This Muscat doesn’t have that issue. It’s quite sweet to be sure but the acidity provides excellent balance. Here is a wine you will be glad to drink quite a bit more than a few sips of. Pair it with a fruit tart topped with crème fraiche or a platter of fruits, nuts and soft cheeses. Either way you’ll be in for a treat.

This trio of wines is sure to make for a very satisfying day. Whether it’s Valentine’s Day or any other time.

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Cristom Vineyards - 2007 Estate Pinot Gris

A few months back I was impressed with a trio of Pinot Noirs I tasted from Cristom Vineyards in Willamette Valley. So I’ve been eager to see what else they’re doing. The most prevalent white varietal in that part of Oregon tends to be Pinot Gris. Today I’ll look at the current release Pinot Gris from Cristom Vineyards. The Cristom Vineyards 2007 Estate Pinot Gris is produced using fruit entirely sourced at their own 5 acre Emilia vineyard which was planted in 1993. This offering was fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks. 1,420 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $16.

Lychee fruit and pineapple aromas lead the expressive and lively nose of this Pinot Gris.  Apricot, mango, orange blossom and temperate wisps of vanilla make up the full flavored and gentle palate of this wine. Ginger, nutmeg, cloves and hazelnut notes emerge on the lingering, honeyed finish. Mineral notes provide a final crisp characteristic.

When I travelled to Willamette Valley a couple of years ago I was on a mission to taste lots of tremendous Pinot Noir. That was the expected and achieved. What I didn’t consciously consider before my trip was the amount of world class Pinot Gris I would encounter. Since Pinot Noir gets all the press, the Gris is sort of the hidden treasure of Willamette Valley. After a few days I realized that there were a lot of excellent examples of Pinot Gris too. It became an altered mission. This 2007 selection from Cristom Vineyards is quite indicative of the lovely white wines I found there. It’s refreshing and beckons you back to the glass for more. For $16 if you don’t want to think about it much further you don’t have to. But if you do, this wine has good complexity and rewards sipping and contemplation.

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Helfrich - 2007 Riesling / 2007 Pinot Gris

Some areas of the wine world bring certain varietals to mind immediately. When it comes to Alsace there is more than one that springs to mind instantly. Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris are the first three I think of. Thankfully, it seems that more quality examples of these varietals from several regions of the world, Alsace included, are landing on US shelves every year. Six generations of the Helfrich family have been making wines in Alsace. Today I’ll take a look at a couple of current releases from Helfrich, Riesling and Pinot Gris. First up is the Helfrich 2007 Riesling. This offering is made entirely from Alsatian fruit and is composed of 100% Riesling. Fermentation took place in stainless steel. This selection was finished in screw cap and the suggested retail price is $14.99.

The lovely aromatics of this wine are led by lemon zest and orchard fruit notes. White cling peach is particularly prominent and provides a very appealing quality. Throughout the full and lush palate a rich mouth feel takes hold and shows off hints of ginger as well as apple, pear and continued peach notes. A lovely mineral component leads the finish which is above average in length. Spice notes emerge as well. Everything comes together in a crisp, dry and clean fashion, leaving you wanting another sip

The highlights of this wine for me are the strong aromatics out of the gate and the mineral notes on the finish. Combined with an ever so tiny hint of sweetness, both elements help form a tasty offering that is a good example of Riesling and a nice value to boot.

The second wine is the Helfrich 2007 Pinot Gris. This selection is also made from 100% Alsatian fruit. This wine is composed entirely of Pinot Gris. Fermentation occurred in stainless steel. This Pinot Gris was finished in screw cap and the suggested retail price is $14.99.

Aromas of honey, hazelnut, lychee, Anjou pear and golden delicious apple are all present in the bright, forward nose of this 2007 Pinot Gris. The palate of this offering is rich and full flavored. Sweet, ripe fruit flavors abound; apple nectar is particularly striking. Spice notes really kick in around mid-palate and continue through the finish with nutmeg, white pepper and hints of smoke standing as the most forward of these. As with the Riesling the finish is also above average in length. Solid acidity balances the inherent sweetness of this wine and keeps things in check.

I love this Pinot Gris for its versatility. Whether served as a welcome wine, with appetizers or accompanying your main meal this 2006 Pinot Gris will work nicely. Roast pork tender loin with apple compote would be a perfect match.

Both of these releases from Helfrich represent good examples of their respective varietals at fair prices. These are well worth tasting.

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Gnarly Head - 2008 Pinot Grigio

If I had a nickel (ok a quarter with inflation) for every uninspired PinotGnarly PG Grigio clogging up store shelves… well you get the idea, I’d have a lot of change. Much of that blasé Pinot Grigio is from Italy itself. When it comes to California, Pinot Grigio appears to be a growing segment. That’s mostly good, if there’s more of it, someone is going to take it seriously and craft it well. But by the same token there’s going to be a lot of subpar examples to wade through to get to the tasty ones. And the truth is there are even fewer examples that instill excitement in the value category. So when the Gnarly Head Pinot Grigio came across my desk I had countering thoughts; I was balancing the above concerns, if you will, that I have with a lot of Pinot Grigio against the fact that I’ve had some Gnarly Head wines that represented very solid values in the past. What’s one to do with a conundrum like that? Tasting the wine was the only way to go. The 2008 Gnarly Head Pinot Grigio is produced from fruit sourced throughout California; though two thirds is specifically from the Lodi region. This offering was fermented in stainless steel. Alcohol content for this Pinot Grigio is a modest 13%. The suggested retail price for this wine is $10.99.

Pineapple and hints of zesty lemon are part of the nose. A mélange of citrus emerges on the palate along with orchard fruits such as pear and apple. Citrus notes continue to dominate and lead to the finish which includes white pepper and ginger spice. This Pinot Grigio is clean, crisp and refreshing. It has excellent acidity and will pair well with lighter foods.

The bottom line for me on this Pinot Grigio is that it shows sufficient varietal character to make it interesting; it’s also tasty and refreshing. Add in the fact that it’s widely available for under $10 and I find this to be a good choice for large gatherings or everyday drinking.

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Brancott - 2008 Pinot Grigio

Quick, what grape do you think of when New Zealand comes up in brancott-pgconversation? I'll bet your answer was either Pinot Noir or Sauvignon Blanc. There's good reason for that as it's those two grapes that have really made their mark for New Zealand. But of course they aren't the only two varietals being grown there. Today I'll look at a Pinot Grigio from Brancott. The 2008 Brancott Pinot Grigio is made from fruit that was mostly sourced in Marlborough. The remainder is from the lesser known (to this point) Waipara region. This Pinot Grigio saw no oak treatment. The wine was left on light lees for a period of three months and stirred weekly. The alcohol for this offering is a modest 13% and the suggested retail price is $14.

The hue of this wine is a very light, pale yellow in color. Lemon zest, anjou pear and hints of white pepper are apparent in the expressive nose. Throughout the palate this Pinot Grigio is soft, lush and full of gentle, concentrated flavorful fruit. White peach, hints of tangerine and continued pear are all part of the mix here. Nutmeg, additional white pepper and touches of clove emerge on the finish. This wine has excellent acidity and is a sure bet to match with a wide array of lighter cuisine. I paired it with a chicken and vegetable stir fry and found that it worked quite well.

For $14 (less if you shop around), this wine is a nice value. It exhibits plenty of Pinot Grigio character and has a ton of flavor. Don' be afraid of overbuying this wine, it has the structure and acidity to drink well over the next couple of years. So no need to worry about drinking it all up during summer 2009.

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Graffigna - 2008 Centenario Pinot Grigio

Pinot Grigio is an often frustrating varietal. It wants to be loved and there are a lot of wine drinkers who do in fact drink it in spades. The _Graffigna Centenario Pinot Grigio USA hi restrouble is that a lot of the Pinot Grigio that’s widely available on US shelves is, to be kind, uninspiring. Speaking for myself I know that I’m always compelled to try Pinot Grigios that cross my path; the search for something great, always on my mind. A couple of months ago I looked at some wines from Graffigna; two Malbecs and two Cabernet Sauvignons, all of them were pretty tasty. So when the chance to taste their current release Pinot Grigio came up I was intrigued. The 2008 Graffigna Pinot Grigio is 100% varietal. All of the fruit for this selection was handpicked. The grapes were sourced in the Tulum Valley, located in San Juan Argentina. The vineyards are close to 2,000 feet above sea level. This wine was fermented in stainless steel. The suggested retail price for this Pinot Grigio is $13.

Peaches, melon and a touch of hibiscus are prominent in the nose of this South American take on Pinot Grigio. Pineapple, ripe, sweet white peach and apricot star in the appealing palate. Those sweet and inviting fruit notes continue through the finish which also has some light hints of vanilla. I found this wine paired well with a simple snack of Kalamata olives, sharp cheddar and flatbread. That said I think this selection also drinks quite nicely on its own and would be a tremendous welcome wine for a dinner party.

The Pinot Grigio from Graffigna is a very tasty effort. This is an excellent selection for summer. It’s light and refreshing with sufficient Pinot Grigio character to keep things interesting. For a $13 price-point, less if you shop around, this selection won’t break your budget either.

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Twisted Wines - 2007 Pinot Grigio

twistedpgWhether you're headed to a Barbecue, having a casual get together at your own home or eating takeout food on weekday night, you're probably going to want to pair it with some wine. The difficulty for me in situations like this is picking the right wine. If 'm headed to a large gathering it's hard to bring a couple of bottle of high end Chardonnay, Syrah or what have you. But I refuse to bring something I'm not happy drinking myself. So I end up spending a lot of time tasting wines in the under $10 range, looking for a combination of value, wide appeal, and sufficient complexity to keep me interested. Today I'll look at a Pinot Grigio that fits the bill. The 2007 Twisted Wines Pinot Grigio was produced using fruit sourced from various regions in California. Alcohol for this wine is a modest 13%. The suggested retail price for this selection is $7.99.

This wine has a lovely pale straw yellow hue. Lemon Zest is most prominent in the nose. What the nose really brings to mind is Lemon Italian Ices. Throughout the palate there is more lemon, pear, apple and honeydew notes. Vanilla and white pepper along with a touch of tart citrus are all part of a medium length finish.

The bottom line for me on this wine is that's it's a refreshing white, perfect for large summer gatherings. It has a good price point and sufficient complexity to make it interesting in it's category. The relatively low alcohol also adds to its warm weather appeal. This wine isn't going to blow you away, but it's not intended to. It will however do what it was meant to do which is serve as a nice, refreshing, low priced summer white.

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The Wines Of Summer - Half A Case Of White

I drink white wines all year round. In Spring and Summer however my consumption of white wine increases as the weather and foods provide the perfect opportunity to enjoy them. As I did recently with Rosé I've also done with white wine. I tasted through a couple dozen whites from a combination of wineries I was very familiar with to ones I had less experience with. From them I picked 6 wines that I recommend everyone drink this summer. Martin & Weyrich- 2006 Pinot Grigio. Between the industrial stuff emerging in great quantity from Italy and the number of indistinguishable attempts from California and other areas there's a lot of Pinot Grigio to wade through before you find a good one. Thankfully they're out there and this one from Martin & Weyrich in Paso Robles is one of them. The nose is filled with lemon zest and a light vanilla note. Tropical fruit and honeydew fill the palate of this wine. A soft, round mouth-feel is the trademark characteristic to me. The finish features subtle but emerging spice notes that linger. This wine is well balanced with good acid.  It'll pair nicely with a wide array of foods as well as drinking wonderfully on its own. This is the sort of white wine I could sit on my porch and drink all day. It's combination of easy drink-ability combined with more than enough complexity to keep it interesting make this a winner. With new world Pinot Grigio of this quality available it's a wonder people still drink so much of the anonymous tasting stuff like Santa Margherita. The suggested retail price is $15.

Sawtooth Winery- 2005 Viognier. This Viognier from Idaho also has Roussane blended in. Copious quantities of floral and citrus notes fill the nose of this wine. From the very first sip there is a richness in the mouth feel that comes from the addition of the Roussane. Vanilla, lychee fruit and a touch of smokiness emerge at the end of the mid-palate and carry through the finish. This wine sips nicely on its own and will be a good match for grilled chicken, pasta salad and other light foods. The retail price for this wine is $10, a terrific value.

Lucas & Lewellen Vineyards- 2007 Gewurztraminer. Lychee fruit is the first thing that emerges from the nose of this wine. From the moment I took the first sip I was hit with an avalanche of apricots. Lemon notes are prominent throughout the palate along with excellent spice characteristics dancing on the tongue. Of these, nutmeg resonates the most. This Gewurztraminer has a soft, lush mid-palate and an excellent, lengthy finish. This wine will be a great match for herb crusted goat cheese as well as light summer cuisine in general. The suggested retail price of this wine is $16. It's one of the better New World Gewurtztraminer's I've had in awhile and at that price it's a nice value to boot.

Rodney Strong- 2006 Chalk Hill Chardonnay. What would a look at white wines for summer be without at least one Chardonnay. This ubiquitous grape is one I love, but am also very finicky about. So I'm always happy when I find a Chardonnay to recommend. Spice, vanilla, citrus fruit and light toasty notes fill the nose of this Sonoma Chardonnay. Oak is present but thankfully unobtrusive as it allows the fruit to shine through wonderfully. The spice notes continue through an above average finish. Good acidity and balance make this an excellent candidate to pair with many foods. Rich, creamy cheeses, lighter grilled meats and hearty entree salads are a couple of things that come to mind. The suggested retail price for this wine is $20. This is a widely available release and wine-searcher shows it can generally be had for closer to $15.

Wild Horse Vineyards- 2006 Viognier. This is the white varietal I reach for first as an alternative to Chardonnay. They tend to be floral, unctuous and full of tropical fruit flavors. This 2006 example from Wild Horse is no exception to that. A bit of Roussane and Verdelho are blended with the Viognier. Both additions add to this wines richness and complexity. Citrus notes at the front and spice and minerality on the finish are the hallmarks of this wine. It'll serve equally well as a stand alone sipper, with white grilled meats or as a match to spicy Asian cuisine. The suggested retail price on this one is $19. At that price or the couple dollars less you're likely to find it for it's a fun and compelling summer wine.

York Mountain- 2006 Albarino. Over the last few years Albarino seems to be making some inroads in California. Most well known examples, emanate from Spain. As this offering shows though, Albarino can be well made in California too. Grapefruit and honeydew are predominate on the nose. All the way from the first sip through to the finish the trademark is of a very dry wine. This is typical of the varietal. Citrus notes emerge throughout and the finish has some mineral notes as well as a touch of tartness and gentle spice notes. This is an excellent wine to pair with appetizers or to serve to your guests as they enter your home. The retail price for this wine is $18.

Up Next: Four more releases from Rodney Strong Vineyards.

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Adelsheim Vineyard - 2006 Willamette Valley Pinot Gris

The Willamette Valley in Oregon has been getting more and more recognition over the last few years for the wines they make. As a cooler climate than most of the regions in California they have an edge from nature when growing certain grape varietals. I'll examine two releases from Adelsheim Vineyard over the next couple of days. Somewhat appropriately I'll look at releases that represent the 2 varietals that seem to shine the most up in Oregon's Willamette Valley. First up I'll look at their Willamette Valley Pinot Gris. This wine is part of their Willamette Valley Series. They also have single vineyard and reserve offerings as well as a line of what they've termed wacky wines. The 2006 Adelsheim Pinot Gris had minimal oak influence. 20% of the wine underwent malolactic fermentation. More than half of the fruit for this offering was sourced in Adelsheim's own Estate vineyards. Approximately 15,500 cases were produced and the suggested retail price is $19.

Honey Dew Melon, peach and pear are the most prominent characteristics to emerge from the nose of this wine. This Pinot Gris is soft, round and lush throughout the palate with no rough edges to speak of. It's also layered, elegant and complex. The finish is long, spicy and persistent with white pepper notes lingering against the back of the throat for a nice long while. This wine will work incredibly well as an aperitif or welcome wine at your next event. It'll also pair nicely with light foods, creamy cheeses or a fresh summer entrée salad.

What I like best about the Adelsheim Willamette Valley Pinot Gris is that its overriding characteristic is fresh, unadulterated fruit. This is a clean crisp wine that speaks of its fruit and place not of manipulation.

While the suggested retail price for this wine is $19, wine-searcher shows that it can commonly be found for a couple of dollars less. In either case, this is terrific wine and an excellent value.

Up Next: Adlesheim Vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

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A Couple of 2006 California Pinot Grigio's

Over the last couple of years it seems like Pinot Girgio is finally making it's move in the New World. In California especially, more and more wineries are producing them. As with most things the more that attempt it, the better the odds someone will get it right. Terlato Family Vineyards Pinot Grigio was sourced in the Russian River Valley. Generally Terlato Pinot Grigiospeaking grapes that do well in cooler climates thrive in the Russian River valley. As such you tend to see a lot of  Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from there. It seems natural that we would start seeing Pinot Grigio sourced there too.

The Terlato Pinot Grigio has lots of citrus on the nose. The first sip reveals many of those same citrus notes as well. There is also a very present acidity in this wine. The finish bristles slightly on the back of the throat revealing a bit of viscosity. Sipped on it's own, the Terlato is OK. The acidity is perhaps a bit too glaring for this wine to be as enjoyable on it's own it might be otherwise. It did much better with food, pairing well with some mild cheeses and artisan breads. It's sells for right around $18.00.

Swanson Pinot GrigioSwanson Vineyards in Oakville has been making Estate Pinot Grigio long before it was fashionable. Having had it for quite a few consecutive vintages I can say that it's been incredibly consistent. The fruit is sourced primarily from their estate vineyard in Oakville. The 2006 has a rich mouth-feel and some citrus notes on nose. The nose also has some guava notes. The first sips reveal pear and a bit more of that citrus. The finish is long and pretty lush. Each additional sip draws you in for more and additional complexity is revealed. 

The Swanson Pinot Grigio is perfectly enjoyable sipped on it's own. But it also pears well with quite a few foods. I found it to be a great foil for mild cheeses as well as grilled chicken and lentil soup. Like the other wines I have had from Swanson Vineyards, the best word to describe the Pinot Grigio is Elegant. Although retail price is $21.00, Wine-Searcher.com shows that the Swanson Pinot Grigio is widely available for around $15.99. In some cases it can be had for less.

The Terlato Family Vineyards 2006 Pinot Grigio is enjoyable but comparing it to the Swanson Vineyards Pinot Grigio it comes up a bit short. Swanson Vineyards 2006 Pinot Grigio is the better, more complex bottle of wine and the better value. Swanson has been making exceptional wines in Napa for the better part of two decades. The 2006 Pinot Grigio, is but one example.