Martin & Weyrich - 2005 Il Palio Sangiovese

Paso Robles, in the Central Coast of California has been a favorite region of mine for a number of years now. The number of high quality, well priced, and unique wines emerging from Paso seems to increase with each passing year. Rhone varietals and Zinfandels are amongst the first things that come to mind when thinking of Paso Robles. But there are a growing number of Wineries producing Italian varietals with great success. Martin & Weyrich has been in operation since 1981 and Italian varietals are at the core of what they do. Today I'll look at their current release of Sangiovese The 2005 Martin & Weyrich Il Palio Sangiovese is made from fruit sourced at two Estate Vineyards. This wine is 100% Sangiovese. Aging was done in French oak; 20% of the barrels were new. Just over 2,100 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $16.

Cherries, vanilla and nutmeg notes are prominent in the nose of this Paso Sangiovese. Throughout the palate red berry fruit and back pepper dominate the flavors. Sour cherry and earth notes tell the story of this wine's above average finish. This offering has excellent balance and tremendously pleasing acidity, which make this a perfect foil for a wide array of foods. I had it with Pizza and found that it matched well. Meats and hard cheeses would work as well. Italian dishes with red sauce are a no brainer.

What I like best about this wine is that it displays both old and new world elements. I recommend decanting this wine for about 45 minutes; some air really helps it shine. It's ability to be made in such a wide array of styles makes Sangiovese  Italy's MVP grape, and star of Chianti and Brunello to name but a few. It's slowly emerged in the US, specifically in California, here's hoping it take s a real foothold. If you haven't had any Sangiovese from California, or just haven't found one you loved yet, give the Il Palio a shot, it's well worth its $16 price tag.

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Biondi Santi - 2001 Brunello di Montalcino

Fittingly the last wine this week from Biondi Santi is their Brunello di Montalcino. This is perhaps their best known offering year after year and one of the legendary releases to emerge from Italy annually. The 2001 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino is 100% Sangiovese Grosso. Vineayrds sources for this offering are between 10 and 25 years old. This selection was aged in Slavonian oak for 3 years followed by a minimum of 4 months bottle refining. 4750 cases of this Brunello were produced and the suggested retail price is $190.

Not surprisingly this wine is very reticent at first. If you're thinking about drinking it now, decant it for 10-12 hours. As it opens the nose shows cherry, eucalyptus, vanilla and cedar notes. Spice is the hallmark of the mid-palate with nutmeg and pepper as the main attractions. These spices are accompanied by fresh fruit flavors of red plum, bing cherry and light wild strawberry. The finish is very long and persistent with spice, earth and terrific mineral notes that cling to the back of the throat as this one closes out. This is is a rich, full flavored wine that should be paired with an equally opulent meal. Osso Buco, Grilled Tuscan Steak and Shepherds Pie come to mind as obvious complements.

What I like best about this wine is the tremendous finish that goes on for a long time, offering great complexity. Right now, though, this wine is a baby. My recommendation would be to sock a couple of these away for an anniversary or other special occasion 15 or more years down the road. By then this wine will have had a chance to resolve itself, secondary flavors will be more developed and it will be more impressive all around. As noted above if you do decide to drink it anytime soon, decant it for at least 10 hours. A tremendous example of a benchmark Brunello in a very good vintage. Kudos to Biondi Santi.

Imported by Shaw-Ross International Importers.

Up Next: Winemaker Dinner, Renae Hirsch of Henry's Drive.

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Biondi Santi - 2003 Rosso di Montalcino

The last two selections I'm looking at this week from Biondi Santi are from the legendary estate itself. This winery is not only a well known and regarded Italian Estate but a crucial player in the establishment of Brunello di Montalcino as a region. Today's selection is a Rosso di Montalcino. The 2003 Biondi Santi Rosso di Montalcino is 100% Sangiovese Grosso. Aging occurred in Slavonian oak for 12 months, followed by 4 months in bottle. Approximately 1,500 cases of this wine are produced each year. The suggested retail price for this offering is $75. Checking wine-searcher shows it's often available for about $10 less.

This Rosso di Montalcino has a heavily perfumed, concentrated nose featuring vanilla, violets, subtle strawberry notes and a touch of earth emerging once it's had a chance to open up. Decanting for an hour at minimum is highly recommended. Dried wild strawberry is prominent from the first sip onward. The mid-palate adds dried cherry and red raspberry notes, accompanied by subtle nutmeg, which carries through to the finish. Speaking of the finish, it's intense, persistent and has more forceful and obvious spice notes. Not surprisingly as with many well made Italian wines this offering is built to pair with food. Spit roasted lamb with rosemary would by my first choice. Failing that, other grilled or roasted meats will be a fine choice as well.

As with the wines from sister winery Villa Poggio Salvi, this selection has excellent acidity and balance. The oak influence is detectable but not obtrusive, adding complexity as it should. This wine will age effortlessly for at least a decade, probably a bit longer.

Imported by Shaw-Ross International Importers.

Up Next: Biondi Santi- 2001 Brunello di Montalcino

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Poggio di Salvi - 2000 Brunello di Montalcino

The third wine from Poggio Di Salvi I'm looking at is the first of two Brunellos. The other one is from Biondi Santi itself. Notes on that are coming up over the next few days. Brunello stands with Barolo and Barberesco as one of the triumvirate of most esteemed Italian Wines. There are restrictions on varietal, aging and the like on all of these wines to make sure, among other things, that quality in these regions stays consistent. All three can be tremendous wines with terrific aging potential when done right. The 2000 Poggio di Salvi Brunello di Montalcino is 100% Sangiovese Grosso. The grapes chosen for this particular offering are from a group of south west facing vines, all at more than 1,100 feet above sea level. It spent 30 months in Slavonian oak barrels and a minimum of 6 months in bottle before its release. Approximately 6,000 cases of this wine are made each year. This has a suggested retail price in the mid $70's but can be found for closer to $60.

This 2000 Brunello is incredibly perfumed with notes of violets, leather, cherry and cedar. From the first sip onward dried fruit notes, including sour cherry and red raspberry, are among the hallmark characteristics of this wine. Vanilla appears as a subtle undertone throughout. The finish on this wine is very long and persistent; spice, earth and fruit making their presence known. This will be a good match for mushroom risotto, strong cheeses, and slow-cooked, full flavored meats.

The 2000 Poggio di Salvi Brunello di Montalcino is built with layer upon layer of complexity. It evolves throughout an evening, revealing an impressive structure, refined power and elegance.

What I like best about his Brunello is that it's full flavored, rich and mouth-filling while never straying close to being too big, or in your face, in style. It is in fact impeccably balanced with tremendous acidity. Between that and the rich fruit, this wine has a nice long shelf life ahead of it. This promises to improve for the next 10-12 years and drink well for 5 or more after that, if not longer. At $60 or so this may not be a choice as an everyday drinker for most people. However, this is a great one to tuck away for a holiday or special occasion.

Imported by Shaw-Ross International Importers.

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Villa Poggio Salvi - 2003 Rosso di Montalcino

Montalcino is one of the best known and most highly regarded wine regions in both Italy and the Wine world at large. Brunello is of course the type of wine most associated with Montalcino. However, several other offerings come from this region. There are different criteria placed upon aging and handling in regard to wines which are not Brunello di Montalcino. The next and second most popular designation is Rosso di Montalcino. The wine I'll look at today from Villa Poggio Salvi is such a wine. The 2003 Villa Poggio SalviRosso di Montalcino is of course 100% Sangiovese Grosso as per regulation. The fruit was handpicked and spent 12 month in Slavonian  oak. 4 months of bottle fining followed. Approximately 2,000 cases of this wine are produced each year. The suggested retail price is $32.

A ton of cherry and vanilla fill the nose of this Rosso di Montalcino along with a subtle violet undertone.  This wine is filled with spice notes throughout the complex palate. Dried raspberry, cherry and a touch of earth fill this offerings mid-palate. This is a full flavored, medium bodied wine. The long, layered finish is also loaded with spice character, particularly white pepper, along with earthy mushroom notes.

What I like best about this wine is how much bang it offers for the price. It may be a Rosso di Montalcino but it has the layers and structure of many Brunello's. Decanting this wine for an hour at minimum is strongly recommended. While this is drinking very well now, I'd expect it to improve for 5-6 years and drink well for another 4 or 5 after that.

Imported by Shaw-Ross International Importers.

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Mil Piedras - 2006 Sangiovese

The Mil Piedras line of wines from Benvenuto de la Serna includes five offerings that are each 100% varietal, and one blend. My first experience having these wines was at a large tasting about 3 months ago. I made a note to revisit them. I wanted to see if the positive impression they left me with the first time around was accurate. The Viognier I have already reexamined was even more impressive than I recalled. Today I'm looking at their Sangiovese, which is certainly a fitting varietal for a transplanted Italian winery owner to produce. The 2006 Mil Piedras Sangiovese is produced from 7-year-old Estate vines. 1600 case of this wine were produced and it sells for around $10.

The nose of this wine is full of cherries, light vanilla and cedar notes. The first sip reveals more cherries, strawberries and spice notes. Without question cherry is the dominant flavor of this wine. Not surprising, as that's often the case with this varietal. Those cherry notes are a little richer and slightly brighter than what one might expect from similarly priced Chianti. The finish features linger spice notes and an emerging earthiness. Modest alcohol and excellent acidity make this a wine that shows best with food. I found it to go very well with a wild mushroom Risotto.

What stands out most to me about this Sangiovese is how smooth and elegant it is for such a modestly priced offering. As with the Viognier it over delivers in its price category. With some exceptions, Sangiovese made outside of Italy can be a dicey proposition. Sangiovese made away from it's native home has often big made in an over the top, extracted style which I don't feel suits it. This offering from Mil Piedras is a nice every day value made in the grapes more suited, fruity but balanced style.

Imported by: H & S Specialty Imports Inc.

Up Next: A Malbec from Mil Piedras.

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Benessere Sangiovese

I can count on one had the number of California Wineries that make consistent Sangiovese that is also true to the Varietal. Include Benessere Vineyards amongst their number.Their 2002 Sangiovese is 100% varietal and 100% Napa fruit.

It's also made in a classic old world style. In Italy sangiovese is a work horse. Chianti and Brunello are two examples that use sangiovese as the primary grape.

This sangiovese seems to fall between those two wine styles in weight and substance.  The upfront fruit reminds me of a young Brunello. The classic cherry, spice and cola notes are reminiscent of Chianti.

At five years of age this sangiovese still seems like it has plenty of life left. A couple of years on the cellar will likely benefit it. I'd expect it to pick up additional earthiness as some of the fruit recedes a bit.