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Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

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Dreyer Sonoma Chardonnay - 2005

The 2005 Dreyer Sonoma Chardonnay is a value priced bottling. It Comes in at around Dreyer Sonoma$12.00 a bottle. Often it's hard to find drinkable chardonnay in this price category. Most often if I want an enjoyable Chardonnay in this price range I look towards South America. This one leads with a nose of baked apple and vanilla. The apple is particularly strong and really provides a heady scent. There's a touch of citrus on the first sip which leads into the acidity the wine does have. The mid palate features more baked apple, and some mulled spices alongside subtle guava notes. The finish has a fair amount of toasty oak on it, though not so much to overwhelm. For a wine in this price range the finish is pretty decent. Each taste drew me in for another sip which is always a good sign. I found this wine to drink well on it's own. Paired with grilled chicken the vanilla and spice notes came out in greater prominence.

For the price the Dreyer Chardonnay is a decent value. It does provide true Chardonnay character and the oak doesn't overwhelm as can so often be the case with California Chardonnay in this price range.

Sun Winefest at Mohegan Sun

WinefestThis weekend Mohegan Sun Casino in Uncasville Connecticut hosted Sun Winefest. Several events were offered throughout the course of the weekend,  but the centerpiece was the Grand Tasting. This took place both Saturday the 19th and Sunday the 20th from Noon to 5:00 PM. Separate tickets were available for each day. Additionally a weekend pass was available at a reduced rate that would gain you entry for both days. I attended both days of Winefest and it was a very well organized event. Approximately 1,000 wines were available to be sampled from all over the world. Several hundred spirits and beers were also available for tasting. A handful of exhibitors were there showcasing related products and lifestyle accessories. Numerous area restaurants were on hand to cook signature dishes and provide samples for a small fee that went towards the Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation. 

Wines were setup at booths throughout the Mohegan Sun convention center. Many of them were poured by the local distributors who bring these wines to market in Connecticut and neighboring states. However in some cases people from the wineries themselves were on hand to pour their wines and answer questions. In several instances the winemakers were available to pour and chat. For folks who may not have had the opportunity to travel to one of the great wine producing regions of the world this was a terrific opportunity to approximate the tasting room experience at a winery.

The wines available to taste ran the gamut from bargains that you could think about drinking everyday, to higher end MSwines aimed at special occasions, or for tucking away in your cellar to age. If you wanted to focus on just white, just red or even one varietal there where enough choices and variety that you could easily fill up the 5 hour event creating any sort of tasting you desired. The foods presented were also a broad range of offerings. At one table I had a delicious Pasta Bolognese while at another across the room I had Corn Dogs made with Kobe Beef Hot dogs. Water was placed strategically throughout the venue so everyone could access it easily. Live cooking demonstrations also went on at a stage towards the entrance to the convention center. There were chairs available so anyone who wanted to take a break from tasting could sit and watch some well regarded chefs cook.

I've attended a lot of large scale wine tastings such as the Sun Winefest. Often with crowds as large as the ones gathered at Mohegan Sun this weekend it's very difficult to get around. Whoever setup the floor-plan knew what they were doing. The layout and flow of the room was better than many tastings of similar scope and size that I have been to. A similar type of tasting at Foxwoods last fall for example was an absolute nightmare to navigate. Perhaps this is a testament to the fact that Mohegan Sun has been hosting their tasting for five years while it's only been two for Foxwoods.

Entry for one day of Sun Winefest was $65.00. This is an absolute bargain for wine lovers. There are many events throughout the year that cost more, don't run nearly as long and have nowhere near the selection of wine, spirits, beer and food. For $95.00 you could buy a weekend pass that would get you into the Grand Tasting both Saturday and Sunday. To put the scope of the event in perspective, if you went both days, you would have to taste 100 wines per hour to get to every wine. Not that I'm recommending anything of the sort. It's better to take the five hours and soak in the atmosphere. Take time to talk to people and learn about them and the wine they're pouring for you. More than likely, you'll walk away with a few new wines to seek out for your collection.

If you missed Sun Winefest in 2008 I strongly urge looking into it for 2009. It's one of the better tastings around and an excellent value to boot.

Victor Hugo Winery - The Hunchback 2005

Victor Hugo Winery in Paso Robles is a family run operation with a focus on red Victor Hugo WInerywines. The one exception is an elegant Viogner that they make each year. They work with all of the red Bordeaux varietals in addition to Zinfandel, Syrah and Petite Sirah. In addition to being rich and  lush what is most readily apparent about their wines is that they are well balanced. Alcohol, acidity and upfront fruit are all in check with each other. In addition to their varietal bottlings Victor Hugo Winery makes two blends. One is Opulence a Meritage/Bordeaux style blend and the other is The Hunchback. Both of these vary each year as they strive to find the best blends to make a great wine. The Hunchback blend seems to vary more significantly from year to year. The 2005 version is 50% Merlot, 20% Syrah, 15% Petite Verdot and 15% Cabernet Franc.

Even though it's only 15% of the blend the Cabernet Franc is the first thing that stood out to me in the 2005 Hunchback. As is often the case, Cabernet Franc lends itself to a big, inviting nose. In this case it comes in the form of candied blueberry and plum aromas. The first sip reveals a potpourri of spice along with dark berry fruit notes. There are soft but firm tannins on the mid-palate which soften further with 30 minutes or so of decanting. Once the Hunchback opens up further it reveals some mouth filling black cherry flavors and a finish laced with tingly white pepper. Once it breathes a bit the Hunchback has no hard edges, just smooth enjoyable drink-ability. The Hunchback is built for food. it's a medium bodied red that will stand up to meats and cheeses but won't overwhelm lighter fare either.The tannic structure it does have suggests to me that it will improve even more over the next couple of years and drink well for three to five. At a retail price of $15.00 the Hunchback is well worth every penny.

I'm a huge fan of the Victor Hugo Winery offerings and encourage anyone who has a chance to seek their wines out.

337 Clone Cabernet Sauvignon - Lodi

Lodi California produces large quantities of wine each year. When I think of the area the first thing that comes to mind is Zinfandel. Several of my favorite Zins year after year are 337 Cabernetmade from fruit sourced in Lodi. As time goes on more and more wines of merit, made from other varietals, are also emerging from this region. The 2005, 337 Clone Cabernet  is a good example of Cabernet grown in the Lodi region. The fruit is generally brighter and more upfront than it would be in an Old World Cabernet, or even many from Napa or Sonoma. Right after opening the nose on this Cab is a bit reticent. Forty five minutes of decanting time or so is recommended and it really starts to come into it's own. Dark Berry fruit is apparent when the nose opens up. Once it does, the wine is pretty bold and has strong berry notes upfront. The mid palate is big, lush and mouth-filling with soft tannins. A bit of Anise is apprent on the mid-palate too along with more dark berry. Black pepper notes resonates on the finish and bites against the back of the throatA lot of it's character comes up front in the form of all that big berry fruit.

337 Clone Cabernet retails in the mid teens. For that money it's a decent buy. This is definitely a Cabernet to be drunk in it's youth. It should hold where it is for a couple of years but I wouldn't expect it to improve since a lot of it's character comes up front in the form of all that big berry fruit.

A Couple of 2006 California Pinot Grigio's

Over the last couple of years it seems like Pinot Girgio is finally making it's move in the New World. In California especially, more and more wineries are producing them. As with most things the more that attempt it, the better the odds someone will get it right. Terlato Family Vineyards Pinot Grigio was sourced in the Russian River Valley. Generally Terlato Pinot Grigiospeaking grapes that do well in cooler climates thrive in the Russian River valley. As such you tend to see a lot of  Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from there. It seems natural that we would start seeing Pinot Grigio sourced there too.

The Terlato Pinot Grigio has lots of citrus on the nose. The first sip reveals many of those same citrus notes as well. There is also a very present acidity in this wine. The finish bristles slightly on the back of the throat revealing a bit of viscosity. Sipped on it's own, the Terlato is OK. The acidity is perhaps a bit too glaring for this wine to be as enjoyable on it's own it might be otherwise. It did much better with food, pairing well with some mild cheeses and artisan breads. It's sells for right around $18.00.

Swanson Pinot GrigioSwanson Vineyards in Oakville has been making Estate Pinot Grigio long before it was fashionable. Having had it for quite a few consecutive vintages I can say that it's been incredibly consistent. The fruit is sourced primarily from their estate vineyard in Oakville. The 2006 has a rich mouth-feel and some citrus notes on nose. The nose also has some guava notes. The first sips reveal pear and a bit more of that citrus. The finish is long and pretty lush. Each additional sip draws you in for more and additional complexity is revealed. 

The Swanson Pinot Grigio is perfectly enjoyable sipped on it's own. But it also pears well with quite a few foods. I found it to be a great foil for mild cheeses as well as grilled chicken and lentil soup. Like the other wines I have had from Swanson Vineyards, the best word to describe the Pinot Grigio is Elegant. Although retail price is $21.00, Wine-Searcher.com shows that the Swanson Pinot Grigio is widely available for around $15.99. In some cases it can be had for less.

The Terlato Family Vineyards 2006 Pinot Grigio is enjoyable but comparing it to the Swanson Vineyards Pinot Grigio it comes up a bit short. Swanson Vineyards 2006 Pinot Grigio is the better, more complex bottle of wine and the better value. Swanson has been making exceptional wines in Napa for the better part of two decades. The 2006 Pinot Grigio, is but one example.

Linne Calodo - The Outsider - 2004

The OutsiderLinne Calodo has an impressive lineup of wines. Based in the Paso Robles area they focus on an array of blends. Many of them are either Zinfandel or Syrah based. At 68% The Outsider is mostly Zinfandel with 20% Syrah and 12% Mouvedre making up the rest. Although the Linne Calodo wines tend to be big and bold, often with high alcohol content they don't drink hot. They are in fact, incredibly well balanced wines for all their size and heft. Also impressive is their ability to age. Often wines this big and bold don't have the stuffing to age. The tendency is for that big up front fruit to dissipate and leave not much more than the alcohol behind. This is not at all the case with the Linne Calodo wines. They are sufficiently tempered with acidity and a solid backbone to have staying power. The 2004 Outsider has at least 7 or 8 years of life ahead of it, with a decade not seeming out of the question to me.

Big spice and berries from the Zinfandel are the first notes that hit you when sipping The Outsider. The Mid palate has a touch of pepper and tons more dark fruit. The finish is long and luxurious as the wine tingles your tongue for a noticeable length of time after you swallow. While it performed well right out of the bottle, The Outsider seemed to hit it's stride about 45 minutes after decanting.

The Linne Calodo wines are by and large impressive, memorable and worth seeking out.

Castle Rock - 2005 Russian River Valley Petite Sirah

Petite Sirah is one of those grapes that falls below the radar for a lot of people. It's often used in blends. Zinfandel is often one of the things it's blended with. It is however bottled as a varietal also, mainly in California, and has a definite following. When it's great, Petite Sirah makes dense wines that can age a long time in the bottle. They can be inky, spicy, monoliths at times. The sorts of wines that need air and big food to settle them down and pair with. But they can be incredibly enjoyable, unique and fascinating to drink

Castle Rock Petite SirahThe Castle Rock 2005 Petite Sirah from Russian River Valley in California starts off on a promising note. The nose is full of berries and the first sip, although tart, reveals some spicy characteristics. The tartness carries over to the mid palate, to the point of distraction. Well over an hour after the wine was decanted that tartness had not measurably dissipated. Some chocolate notes appear on the mid palate but they're not particualry strong. The finish does feature a touch of white pepper. But it's also a noticeably short finish. As you drink the wine you're waiting for the finish to carry itself longer in your mouth but it vanishes in an instant. All you're really left with is a tingling on your tongue from the tartness which is the main characteristic of this wine

Tartness aside, it's not unpleasant. However I do find it to be one dimensional in nature. Therefore I can not recommend this wine. It retails for right around $10.00. For that price there are scores of wines I could point out that offer a lot more bang for the buck as well as hedonistic drinking pleasure. In the category of Petite Sirah alone both Foppiano and Concannon have been making Petite Sirah for years that is consistently enjoyable vintage after vintage. if you're in the mood for Petite Sirah they're safe bets..

This New Years Eve Celebrate with Sparkling Shiraz

Most of us are conditioned to drink Champagne and other sparkling wines to highlight a celebration. The truth is that many sparklers work well with food. Additionally sparkling wine adds an element of fun that livens up any meal from breakfast through dinner. Australia tend to do things their own way. So it should be no surprise that many of the sparkling wines emanating from down under are Shiraz based. Among other things, they do Shiraz very well so this is a good thing. I just previewed a handful of Aussie sparklers and the two below were my favorites.

LeconfieldLeconfield 2004 Sparkling Shiraz - The nose give off a huge hit of crushed blackberry. The first sip reveals some spice notes. The mid palate has strong plum pudding flavors. This is accompanied by an undertone of brioche that hangs gently though the crisp, dry finish. Dark berry notes appear throughout and provide rich, mouth filling flavors. This wine is dry and works very well with food. I had it with roast pork loin and found it to be a splendid match. That said it sipped well on it's own. The production on the Leconfield was 750 cases. Well worth seeking out Leconfield Coonawarra Estate has been around since 1974. If this sparkling Shiraz is any indication of the quality they are putting out I'd suggest looking into their other releases as well.

  

Ultihorne "Flamma" Sparkling Shiraz - This ones opens with a heady aroma that just envelops your nose, making you want to dive into the glass it's so inviting. The first sip Flammareveals mulled spice flavors and fruit that is a bit brighter than the Leconfield. The mid palate has a touch of white pepper that floats on the tongue. Raspberry, plum and spice notes emerge throughout. The finish most prominently features chocolate and biscuit notes. This wine is incredibly refreshing and each sips in an invitation to go back for more. This is also a great wine with food. I enjoyed it immensely with roasted potatoes and a rotisserie chicken. Flamma also works well on it's own as there's a lot going in this wine and it's all very enjoyable. Don't hesitate to drink it with dessert either, all that dark fruit should pair nicely with dark chocolate. Just 450 cases of this wine were produced. It's worth taking the time to find.

Both of these sparkling wines will make festive, elegant additions to your celebration on New Years Eve. But more than that these wines are proof that Sparklers should not be reserved only for special occasions. Drink them anytime.

Lange Vineyards - "Dundee Hills" Estate Pinot Noir - 2005

Willamette Valley in Oregon has several distinct wine growing regions. Within each of those the style of Pinot Noir, the valleys signature varietal can vary greatly. In general Pinot Noir in Oregon is more Burgundian in style than those produced in other parts of the US. Since most consider Burgundy to be the benchmark for great Pinot Noir, Oregon can be a revelation to new converts.

Lange Vineyards is located in the Dundee Hills Appelation of Willamette Valley. The area Langeis known for earth with a reddish hue and extremely well balanced Pinot Noirs. Dundee Hills may in fact be the area in Oregon with the most Burgundian Pinot's of all. Lange makes several vineyard designates in addition to some cuvees.

The 2005 Dundee Hills Estate Pinot Noir is a pretty small production at 400 cases. The wines nose is a bit reticent at first. After breathing for a bit the aroma starts to come out. Raspberry is the first thing that hit me and it lingered along with a bit of dust. The mid palate shows lots more berry fruit at this point. This wine is still pretty young. With a couple more years of bottle age I's expect the earthiness of this wine to become more apparent than it is now as the fruit subsides.  This Pinot finishes with some mushroom, spice and a hint of smokiness. Overall the wine has an elegant feel. It's medium bodied with good acidity.

Suggested retail on this wine is $60.00. Some digging on Wine-Searcher.com shows it can be found for a few dollars less. This is a terrific Pinot Noir that shows what can be accomplished in Willamette Valley, making it a good bet if you want to lay a bottle of Pinot Noir down for a couple of years. Make no mistake Lange is one of the best producers of Pinot Noir in Oregon.

Shannon Ridge Vineyards and Winery

Napa and Sonoma get a lot of attention for producing great wines. Much of it is deserved, but there are several areas in California that aren't as well known yet, also producing noteworthy wines. One of those regions is Lake County California. Many well known wineries from outside Lake County have been sourcing fruit there for years. Now the number of wineries in the area is also growing. One of these Wineries is Shannon Ridge. They were founded in 2002 and currently produce about 13,000 cases of wine. Their winery sits on 1,000 acres in Lake County. Eventually they plan to have between 60 and 70 percent of that land under vine.  The rest will be preserved for the wildlife that roam the area in and around them.

Shannon Ridge Sauvignon BlancSauvignon Blanc is one of 3 whites Shannon Ridge made in the 2006 vintage. It hits you immediately with a big nose full of citrus and guava notes. The first sips are surprising considering how big the nose is. This Sauvignon Blanc hits the palate gently at first. The citrus is present but not overwhelming.  The mid palate of this wine is quite delightful. It absolutely dances on the tongue, balancing citrus, gooseberry and a nice acidity. It fills the mouth, but drinks smoothly with no sharp edges. The finish is significant, long enough in fact to be noticeable and impressive. Although this Sauvignon Blanc drinks beautifully on it's own, it will also pair well with a variety of different foods. I found it to be a wonderful match with Chinese Pork Dumplings. The suggested retail price is $16.00 although Wine-Searcher.com shows it can be found in some shops for a few dollars less. Well worth the money.

At just over 3,700 cases the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon stands as Shannon Ridge's largest production of 2006. The Sauvignon Blanc was close at 3,600 cases. The Cabernet has berries on the nose and the first sip reveals a touch of tartness. This likely comes from theShannon Ridge Cabernet 10% Petite Verdot that was blended in. After the wine had time to breathe that touch of tartness softened up and the wine had a more luxurious quality to it. White pepper is the story of this Cabernet's mid palate. If you enjoy the spice on your tongue and the back of your throat that comes from those peppery notes this is indeed a Cabernet to seek out. Along with the spice there are lots of deep, dark berry notes present. A touch of oak shows up but does not overwhelm the palate in any way. This is definitely a Cabernet that is ready to drink now. It will also marry well with a wide variety of foods. I had it with pork and it was a nice accompaniment. It's is however a Cabernet Sauvignon that is smooth enough to enjoy on it's own. The suggested retail price is $19.00 but Wine-Searcher once again shows it can be found for a couple of dollars less in some instances. A solid Cabernet to drink in it's youth and a must for lovers of strong white pepper notes.

Shannon Ridge SyrahSignificantly smaller in production than the other two wines is their 2006 Syrah. This less than 1,500 case lot has 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petite Verdot blended in. The first thing that hit me from this Syrah was a huge nose filled with Blackberries. Sipping it the Syrah reveals itself to be pretty big and bold. There is a bit of jam that brings to mind Zinfandel. That thought only lingers briefly though. The mid palate brings on some mocha notes and more dark berry fruit. This Syrah is full bodied, mouth filling and an absolute pleasure to drink. The finish has blueberry notes as well as a hint of malted chocolate. It lingers on the palate for a good long while. A treat to drink on it's own this Syrah will pair well with roasted meats, BBQ and perhaps even dark chocolate among others. Retail on this wine is also $19.00. As with the others I found it to be fairly priced.

All three wines I previewed from Shannon Ridge Vineyards and Winery are enjoyable and worth seeking out. However, I found the Sauvignon Blanc to be the most unique of the three and worth going that extra mile to find if you have to. In the grand scheme of things Shannon Ridge are a fairly young operation. With these wines, they show themselves to be one to watch.

2005 Chamán de Santa Cruz

The 2005 Chaman de Santa Cruz is a 50/50 blend of Carmenere and Cabernet Sauvignon. ChamanThe Carmenere grape has been making some noise in Chile over the last decade. Prior to that it had been sometimes confused in the vineyard with Merlot. This after it was wiped out in Europe in the late 1800's due to Phylloxera. Carmenere  is softer with less tannins than Cabernet Sauvignon and is thus often used to blend. Some wineries will bottle it as a varietal, but more often than not it plays a supporting role.

In this case Carmenere is the equal partner of Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose is pretty big, once this wine has had some time to breathe. The initial hit is blueberry pie. Chaman is rich and mouth-filling with a lush texture. The mid palate features some white pepper to go along with copious berry fruit notes. The finish has a slight, almost imperceptible tannic bite. Mocha notes however dominate the finish which is a pretty lengthy one cosnidering this wine is selling for around $12.00. Chaman is unlikely to improve at all in the bottle as it's built to drink young. It should hold and remain enjoyable for a couple of years.

Cosentino - The Zin 2004 - Sonoma County

Amongst the 30 or so different wines each year, Cosentino Winery makes two distinct Zinfandel's, CigarZin and The Zin. Both of those are generally sourced primarily in the CosentinoLodi area of California. Year in and year out these wines represent the largest case productions in the Cosentino portfolio. Some years they make additional smaller lots of other Zinfandel's. These are occasionally reserves or vineyard designates. In 2004 they made second lot under the label "The Zin." Instead of being from Lodi this smaller production was produced from Sonoma County fruit and labelled as such. Stylistically this wine seems to fall almost exactly between CigarZin and the Lodi sourced production of The Zin. Whereas CigarZin is full of jammy fruit that bursts out of the glass immediately, The Zin (Lodi) is far more austere and reserved at first. It takes longer to open up and reveal itself. When it does there are copious amounts of berry and pepper notes on the mid palate. Consequently The Zin traditionally lives longer in bottle and tends to benefit from laying down for a couple of years.

The Zin (Sonoma County) hits you with dark berry flavor immediately but is still more restrained than CigarZin. A couple of hours after opening it was really singing. The dark berry component as well as significant spice were both present on the mid palate. The finish lasts a noticeably long time and is filled with more berry and white pepper as well as some earthiness.  This zinfandel is well balanced with good acidity. There is no noticeable heat from the alcohol which can be a problem with some Zinfandel's made in a big and bold style.

Since 1980 Mitch Cosentino has been putting out wines of distinction. Zinfandel, while a large percentage of their production is a drop in the bucket varietal wise when you consider how many different wines they make each year. Between the Crystal Valley Cellars imprint, CE2V and the flagship Cosentino branded wines they also make wines in a wide breadth of price ranges. At every level they succeed in making an interesting product that is distinct but recognizable as a Cosentino wine.  If you see Mitch Cosentino's name on it, it's well worth your time and money to drink.

Palandri Wines

For many years now wine lovers have realized that Australia is frequently a source for great bargains. Often times the wines from Australia that are good or great values are from the school of bold and brash wines. Shiraz is of course the Australian calling card when it comes to wine. They are often made in that bold style, especially in the value category. These are generally speaking wines that are made to be drunk early in their life. And make no mistake they can be increibly enjoyable. Variety is also something I treasure in my wines.

Palandri LogoI'm happy to report that I just had a couple from Palandri that go against the tide. Both the 2002 Palandri Shiraz and 2002 Cabernet were made in a very graceful and age-worthy style. It's fairly incredible to find over 5 year old Australian wines available with a suggested retail around $12.00. They're both from the Margaret River area in Western Australia.

Both the Shiraz and the Cabernet have plenty of upfront fruit. Neither however are fruit bombs. They have a restrained elegance and an inherent earthiness that comes from being properly aged.

The Cabernet has soft fruit and some cherry notes on the mid palate. The finish which is a generous one features lots of mocha as well as earthiness and a little tobacco note at the very end. It's a very well balanced Cabernet and quite elegant for the price. This will pair well with a wide range of foods. In addition to grilled meat I found it went very well with dark chocolate.

The Shiraz has bolder and brighter fruit than the Cabernet. The mid palate has a little touch of candied apple on it that really hits the back of the mouth with a nice tingle and draws you back in for more of it. The finish has white pepper notes that linger on the tongue well after the wine has been swallowed.

Both of these wines are excellent values. With the holiday season upon us, these are wines to stock up on for a variety of reasons. They will pair incredibly well with your holiday meal and impress your guests with their elegance. For approximately $12 a bottle they are also perfect to keep around the house as gifts. Whether it's to bring to a party or as a stocking stuffer any wine lover will be glad to have a taste of these Palandri Wines. The fact that these are available now at these prices is an absolute boon for consumers. I urge snapping them up while you can.

Both wines are perfectly ready to drink now. However I suspect if stored properly they'll be delicious for a few more years.

Carmody Mcknight - Estate Merlot 2003

The Paso Robles area in California is best known for Rhone varietals. Second to that is probably Zinfandel which they also do exceptionally well. With some notable exceptions Bordeaux and Burgundy varietals don't seem to fare quite as well there, by and large. 

CM MerlotCarmody Mcknight is without question one of the notable exceptions. Their work with 100% Estate, 100 % Varietal wines is exceptional. Cabernet, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, they make them all well.

Their Merlot is particularly good. What shines about it from year to year is that it tastes like Merlot. Not the swill that often passes for Merlot but actual Merlot.  Shocking isn't it?

The 2003 Carmody Mcknight Merlot is outstanding. It starts off with an immense nose of bright cherry fruit. The first sip reveals that the cherry notes are actually deeper CM Merlotthan they smell. The mid plate brings white pepper that hangs through a noticeably long finish. In addition to the white pepper the finish brings with it some earthiness in the way of mushroom character as well as chocolate notes. All of this is balanced by a firm acidity that keep things well in check. This wine screams for some grilled food to accompany it.

Carmody Mcknight does make some blends in addition to their varietal wines. They are also quite good. But in letting the grapes from each variety speak for themselves each year they are providing quite a service. Tasting their wine year after year you get a sense of their Terroir. Their vineyards are renowned for limestone rich soils. That comes through in the consistency of their wines and the refinement they display vintage after vintage.

At $22 their Merlot is not the least expensive you'll drink. However it will be one of the most consistent year in and year out both in quality and varietal correctness.

Hall - Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc

 Hall SB Depending on where it's from and how it's made Sauvignon Blanc can take on many distinct flavor profiles. Taste a well made example from New Zealand side by side with a Sauvignon Blanc from anynwhere else in the world if you need proof that wine can have a sense of place.

The 2006 Sauvignon Blanc from Hall in Napa Valley leads with a citrus laden nose. A hint of guava follows behind it.

The first sip reveals more citrus accompanied by an undercurrent of mineral and a well defined sense of acidity.

Zest comes through heartily on the mid-palate and hangs through the long, lingering finish.

There is a cleanliness to this wine that makes it incredibly refreshing and easy to drink. It's long finish and complexity however make it a Sauvingon Blanc to contemplate.

This is unquestionably a wine to take seriously. Suggested Retail Price is $20.00. However a quick look at Wine-Searcher.com reveals it can be found for as low as $15.00. This is an extremely well made wine easily worth either price.

Some Napa wineries seem to treat Sauvignon Blanc as an afterthought. Just a white wine to pour before the big reds. Thankfully that's not always the case. When made well, Sauvignon Blanc can be a revelation. It's clear that Hall treats theirs with as much care, gentle handling and respect as the rest of their well regarded portfolio of wines.

Dinner at The Joel Palmer House

Dining at The Joel Palmer House was amongst the highlights of my trip to Oregon. On the first day of my trip I visited a couple of wineries, Yamhill Valley Vineyards amongst them. It was there that I met Woody. He's the Tasting Room Manager, and, as I would come to learn later, all around man about town.

Yamhill Valley Vineyards has some very nice wines. Their reserve Pinot Noir and Pinot Blancs were my favorites. They have the sort of wines and tasting room that you want to hang around and savor. Woody is a part of that too. He's as engaging a person as you're bound to find in a tasting room. After talking for awhile he recommended some other wineries and a few restaurants I might like to try. He named The Joel Palmer House as his favorite Wine Country restaurant.

As it happened I ended up having dinner at The Joel Palmer House with Woody. He brought some tremendous wines along for us to enjoy. That they were able to compete with the food and ambiance is a credit to his willingness to dig deep into the his cellar.

The restaurant has several dining rooms spread through a historic house they restored to create this restaurant. The decor is elegant and charming.

Mushrooms are a huge part of the menu at The Joel Palmer Hosue. Owners Jack & Heidi Czarnecki collect the mushrooms themselves. You are bound to find mushrooms in just about any dish on their menu. Considering how well Pinot Noir does in Oregon and that it pairs incredibly with mushrooms this is a boon for diners.

Everything I consumed at The Joel Palmer House was delicious and clearly prepared with great care.  A Tenderloin of Pork I had was accompanied by a confit of apples, dried cherries, mushrooms, onions and a Port sauce.  I spent a week in Oregon and had several very good dishes, this was easily the best.

As I made my way around Willamette Valley last week I began to suspect that everyone in town knew Woody. His name came up in tasting rooms and restaurants all over the valley. So it shouldn't have been a surprise that he was greeted enthusiastically the moment we walked in to The Joel Palmer House. The reception he received was loud and genuine. Visiting dignitaries should wish to be treated with such fanfare.

I'm sure everyone receives great service as this restaurant, it just seems like that kind of place. But I'm pretty sure that since I was dining with Woody I was afforded an extra special level of service. Meeting Jack, Heidi, Chris & Shaun, the mainstays of the staff, it was clear what effort they put into providing a great meal and overall experience for their diners.

Dining with Woody was a pleasure I am sure to repeat on future trips to Willamette Valley. In addition to his wine knowledge, he spent decades in the music business and is a treasure trove of information and stories about it as well.

It's easy to see why The Joel Palmer House is Woody's favorite Wine Country restaurant. Everything about it is top notch. I only spent a week in Oregon, but I know when I go back, there is one restaurant I will definitely dine at again.

Stony Mountain Vineyard

One of the best ways to get tips on smaller producers when touring a wine making region is to ask the people in the tasting rooms. Most folks are generally excited to share their favorites with you.  Often they're places you may have missed or overlooked. Sometimes they're not even listed on the map. A couple of people suggested I seek out Stony Mountain Vineyard in McMinnville. Never one to shy away from needing an appointment, I secured one for early this morning.

9:00 AM was the scheduled time. Perhaps more appropriate for coffee than wine, but you have to go when they're available, especially at smaller places that are often 1 or 2 person operations.

Stan Murayama the owner and Winemaker met me out front and walked me into the barrel room to taste. A lovely guy to speak with Stan shared some information about his operation.

300 Cases. That's his average annual production. There's small and then there's tiny. So right away you know these wines are cared for and coddled into the bottle.

Stan makes an Estate Pinot Noir and an Estate Reserve each year. I tasted both the 2003 & 2004 Estate as well as the 2003 Estate Reserve. All three wines had a wonderful purity of fruit and true Pinot character. The 2003's definitely benefit from their additional year in bottle. The 2004 tastes very good now but my suspicion is that it will be that much better in another year. I put the question to Stan and he agreed that in another year the Reserve will be even better than it is now. In fact he suggested it should be perfect by around Easter.

Having spent close to a week in Oregon tasting wine at this point I have run across the spectrum of quality and price. Over 30 wineries into my trip I have to report that Stony Mountain Vineyard wines are well within my Sweet Spot. Stan is producing tremendously exciting Pinot Noirs that are priced very fairly. In fact they're a bit of a steal.

With only 300 cases a year they're only sold locally or directly from the winery. If you like excellent Pinot Noir check them out.

It was close to 10:00 AM when I left, time for something else for breakfast.

Soter Vineyards

Another day in Oregon, more outstanding wine. My day started out with an appointment I'd made to taste at Soter Vineyards. I was met and greeted enthusiastically by Chris Poulos their Sales & Marketing Coordinator.

Starting in the office I was officially welcomed with a taste of their 2003 "Beacon Hill." Brut Rose. At four years old this wine is incredibly youthful. It seems to have a minimum of five years ahead of it, probably more. Brioche and biscuit characteristics dominate the mid palate and enhance a rich, round mouth-feel. The finish is a killer and lingers for a nice long while. A tremendous sparkler.

From the office we made our way up to Mineral Springs, the estate vineyard. We passed  the spot at the top of a hill where their tasting room is under construction.

Once at the vineyard we dug in to some Pinots.

"Beacon Hill" came first. This was a 2005 and it seems to be coming into it's own quite nicely. Well balanced with cherry characteristics and proper acidity one can't  help but compare it to a fine Burgundy. A few more years in bottle should help the already present earthiness develop further. I would expect this one to still drink well, perhaps even better, in eight or nine years.

The estate vineyard "Mineral Springs" is just being brought on-line. In fact the 2005 I sampled was the first bottling. Not nearly as resolved at this point in it's evolution as the "Beacon Hill" it promises to ultimately reward the patient with a potentially more complex experience. Tremendous spiciness and a big bouquet are already present in the "Mineral Springs" bottling. Time will serve to make this a stronger offering. Each subsequent vintage also holds a lot of promise as more mature vines will likely result in even nicer releases from this vineyard.

Soter Vineyards is clearly a name to keep in mind for top notch Pinot Noir & Sparkling Wine. If you're in the Willamette Valley area you'd do well to try for an appointment. In addition to the elegance of the wines, the property is beautiful and well worth touring. When you add in their friendliness, Soter Vineyards is my kind of Triple Threat.

Kramer Vineyards- Willamette Valley Oregon

Every trip I take to a wine producing region to taste wine results in some memorable tasting room experiences. Having spent less than 2 days so far in Oregon I've already tasted some great wines and met some friendly folks.

But then I walked into Kramer Vineyards late in the day yesterday. After a few minutes at the very welcoming tasting bar sampling one of their tasty sparkling wines I was asked if I had any interest in tasting a six year vertical of their Barrel Select Pinot Noir. Any interest? I had to laugh, this is exactly the sort of thing you hope to stumble accross when you're out wine tasting. And to make it even more appealing it was an incredibly modest $12.00 for the privilege.

I was ushered into the back room where I sat with the owners and winemakers Trudy & Keith Kramer as well as their friends the Lint's (RJ & Junaita) who it turns out are in the process of getting their own winery (Plum Hill Vineyard) up and running. Then I was also introduced to Marilyn Blen who seems to do a variety of different things around the winery including acting as in house chef (more on that later).

I sat down and was poured generous quantities of the above mentioned Pinot Noirs from vintage years 2002 through 2006. The 2006 came from a barrel sample as it's a few months away from being bottled.

Each of the Pinot's was well balanced and very drinkable. In the 2001 you can detect that it's optimum drinking window is coming to a close. But it's very enjoyable right now and the color has muted a bit from the cherry red of a young Pinot to take on some rust color.

The nose on all 6 was very distinct. The 2006 promises to be a blockbuster. It has a bigger almost jammy nose with lots of dark fruit. By the time it's released next fall it should really be singing.

My favorites were the 2003 and 2004. The 2003 was incredibly perfumed and just beautiful to drink. The sort of wine you want to grab a bottle of and sit outside and consume every last drop of. The 2004 also had a unique nose which I could not quite put my finger on. Anise came to mind but I'll reconsider when I taste it again.

We then moved on to their 2004 Heritage Pinot. WOW, What a tremendous wine. A big round mouth-feel, lots of cherry and spice characteristics and a lengthy finish. Just fantastic.

It was at this point that I was asked to hang with them for dinner. How could anyone ever say no to this friendly, gregarious bunch. We enjoyed salad and a slow cooked brisket that Marilyn had prepared with her family's plum BBQ sauce recipe. Delicious doesn't even begin to describe it. Of course several other wines were poured with the meal including a unique one called Carmine I believe. It comes from several grapes being combined genetically. The last wine was a Pinot port. A terrific way to end, it paired nicely with chocolate.

Close to 3 1/2 hours after I walked into Kramer Vineyards I actually left. Richer not only with the new wines I discovered but with an incredible few hours spent with some genuinely lovely and generous people who happen to make delicious wine and sell it at a very fair price.

If you have the chance visit them. If you don't have that opportunity order some through their website KramerWine.com.

Culley - Pinot Noir

For years now wine lovers have recognized New Zealand as the home of unique, well made Sauvignon Blanc. In the last few years they have also emerged as producers of well made Pinot Noir. Culley's 2006 Pinot Noir is made in a Burgundian style.

Classic Pinot characteristics of sour cherry and cola are balanced by firm but not overwhelming acidity.  This Pinot has a nice finish that lingers on the tongue for quite awhile.

This is a medium bodied wine that will marry well with a wide range of cuisine and is also incredibly easy to drink on it's own.

It will likely drink well for a couple of years if cellared properly.  However I wouldn't expect it to improve much if at all. 

Pinot Noir is amongst the most difficult wines to find a true bargain on. Coming in at around $12 a bottle the Culley certainly qualifies.