Brutocao Cellars - 2006 Zinfandel Port & Their Wine Club

The 2006 Zinfandel Port closes out the week on releases from Brutucao Cellars I'm covering at this time. However, considering how impressed I am with the wines from this producer, I expect I'll cover other releases from them in the future. They're also on my short list of wineries to visit on my next trip to California. Before I get to the Zinfandel Port though I thought I'd mention a couple of things about their wine club. Every wine club has it's perks and benefits. Brutocao Cellars has one that seems unique. With a small membership fee when you join they give you a 3 liter bottle of wine. It's worth noting that age-worthy wines tend to do even better in large format bottles. Of course their wine club also includes the normal discounts and free tastings most clubs feature too. Tours at the winery are also free to members. It's my understanding that they have a pretty large and active membership that's growing all the time. Their wines are already reasonably priced in my opinion, add a wine club discount on top of that and you're looking at some real bargains. Check the wine-club specifics out at their web-page, which is very well laid out and informative.

The 2006 Brutocao Cellars Zinfandel Port leads with a nose full of berry and mocha notes. The moment this Port hits your lips you get sweet candied black cherry that carries on all the way through the finish. The mid palate features more berry and cherry fruit as well as some spice. The finish, which carries on for a nice long while features fruitcake notes and lingering mocha characteristics. This Zinfandel Port is smooth and silky and doesn't drink hot at all as some Zin Ports have a tendency to.

I found this wine to be a perfect match for chocolate covered cherries. But it would also go well with dark chocolate, plum pudding or a host of other desserts. The other alternative is to make this Port the dessert and let it shine on it's own. 540 cases were made and it's available in both 375 ml and 750 ml bottles at $20 or $34 respectively. A 375 ml bottle is the perfect size to share with a couple of other people.

As I've stated throughout this week, Brutocao Cellars is making well balanced, food friendly wines. This is definitely a producer whose wines I'd urge my readers to seek out.

 Coming up this week: Releases from Edna Valley Vineyards as well as Mollydooker. 

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Brutocao Cellars - 2004 Syrah - Feliz Vineyard Select

One of the things that struck me when I first tasted Brutocao Cellars wines and has continued to impress me as I have tasted through a number of selections this week is their approach to each varietal or blend of varietals. It's apparent drinking their wines that they strive to make them in a style true to each grapes origin. In the case of the Syrah I'm looking at today it's ancestral home is of course the Rhone. Wines from there tend to be better balanced and more food friendly than Syrahs from other regions. A mere 690 cases of this vineyard select 2004 Syrah was bottled. The retail price for this wine is $25. It was bottled unfiltered.

Brutocao Cellars 2004 Syrah has an immense nose of raspberry, cedar and spice which is underscored by hints of bacon fat. A tremendous amount of white pepper tingles the tongue as soon as you take the first sip and you're hit with that and more berry fruit. That's followed by copious smoky notes that linger lavishly through the finish which also features mocha notes and more dark berry fruit accented by a hint of plum.

There is good acidity present in this wine. As with each of the Brutocao Cellars releases I've sampled it's an impeccably well balanced wine meant for complementing a meal. The use of oak is detectable but well in check. It never takes attention away from the fruit. That said, the Brutocao Cellars Syrah is a a pretty big, mouthfilling wine that packs a wallop in terms of flavor.

The Brutocao Cellars wines are elegant enough for a special occassion, yet priced reasonably enough that you don't need to wait for a special occassion to bust one open.

Coming Tomorrow: Brutocao Cellars Zinfandel Port 

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Brutocao Cellars - 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon

Brutocao Cellars makes a couple of  different Cabernet Sauvignon releases. Today I'm looking at their 2005 Hopland Ranches release which is their largest production Cabernet Sauvignon. 900 cases of this wine were produced. 15% of the wine spent 20 months in new oak. The wine was bottled fined but unfiltered. The retail price is $22. The nose of this Brutocao Cellars Cabernet is huge with significant cloves, cedar and oak notes coming out immediately. Taking the first sip you're hit with an avalanche of bright cherry fruit that carries through the rich and mouth-filling mid palate. Earth, spice, and mushroom are also present and stay with you through the finish which also features a touch of licorice and candied cherry. Throughout this wine pepper notes abound.

Soft tannins are present bu for a 2005 Cabernet this wine is incredibly smooth. It's drinking very well now and my initial impression is that this one was built to drink in it's youth.  That said, this wine changed so much and so many times in my glass over the course of an evening that it may have some evolution in the bottle ahead of it.

What impresses me most about this bottle of wine is how drinkable it is right now for a Cabernet this young and in this price range. As with the other wines from Brutocao Cellars I have looked at this Cabernet is made to go with food. It's silky enough that it'll pair with a wide array of things. Grilled meats and hard cheeses are just a couple of options. Enjoy it slowly and watch in evolve.

Coming Tomorrow: Brutocao Cellars 2004 Syrah, Feliz Vineyard Select

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Brutocao Cellars - Quadriga - 2005

Quadriga is the third releases from Brutocao Cellars I'm looking at this week. Considering the Italian heritage that is a huge part of the winery's history it's not surprising that Italian varietals play a sizeable role in their portfolio. They make another blend in addition to this one as well as several stand alone varietals. Quadriga is a blend of Sangiovese, Primitivo, Barbera and Dolcetto. Just under 1,200 cases were produced and it was bottled unfiltered. The retail price on this wine is $24.

Dried cherry, cedar, tobacco and leather fill the nose of Quadriga. A terrific earthiness is immediately apparent with the first sips of this wine. The mid palate is dominated by spice and sour cherry notes. A potpourri of white and black pepper, earthiness and black cherry are all part of the finish which is substantial in length.

Quadriga is somewhere between a medium and full bodied wine. It features excellent acidity and is terrific to drink on it's own as well as with food. I had it with Beef Stroganoff, but it would also be a great match for a dish of pasta.

In a lot of ways Quadriga reminds me of a traditional field blend. It's an easy drinking wine that has more than enough complexity to keep pulling you back in for another sip, another glass and yes probably a second bottle. At $24 this is another excellent value from Brutocao Cellars. I'd expect this wine to age nicely for the next 5 or 6 years at minimum, and drink well for a couple after that. If you like Italian varietals, this is a good wine to grab a few bottles of.

Up next: Brutocao Cellars 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon 

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Brutocao Cellars - 2005 Zinfandel & Personal Vineyards Program

Today I'll be looking Brutocao Cellars 2005 Hopland Ranches Zinfandel. But before getting to that I want to mention a fairly unique program that Brutocao Cellars runs in addition to their world class winery. Personal Vineyards is aimed at those wine lovers who want to become involved in the process. It's a scaleable club that allows you to base your participation in wine-making at a level of commitment that you're comfortable with. After joining you might choose to get down and dirty in every step of the winemaking process or you might just make a few key decisions about your wine. Specific vines will be assigned to you based on the varietals you choose. Ultimately the grapes from those vines will be used to make 16 cases of wine that bear a label you have the ability to design yourself. If you're a wine lover you'll not only gain hands on experience with one of your passions, you'll also have a tangible result in the form of wine you can enjoy for years to come and share with friends and family. The Personal Vineyards website has much more detailed information. You can also contact Leslie Bramwell-Smith the Executive Director of this program by e-mail, leslie@personalvineyards.com or phone 1-866-530-4567. As mentioned, today's wine is their 2005 Zinfandel. The fruit was sourced from  two separate blocks on their Hopland Ranches Estate. 18% of the wine spent 16 months in new oak. 1850 cases of this Zinfandel were produced and the suggested retail price is $22.

The Brutocao Cellars Zinfandel has a huge nose of jammy candied blackberries, black pepper and subtle mocha notes. This is followed by a mid palate with more dark berry fruit. The finish which maintains the dark fruit also features tingly white pepper and earth character. The Brutocao Zinfandel is big, ripe and in your face, but it also has sufficient acidity and balance to make it a wine you can enjoy with a meal. This zinfandel would be an excellent choice with grilled meats, particularly a rack of baby-back ribs.

For close to 10 years, one of my favorite Zinfandel's year in and year out has been Cosentino's CigarZin. So it's certainly a compliment when I say that the 2005 Brutocao Cellars Zinfanel reminds me of CigarZin. As of this writing Brutocao Cellars has also released the 2006 Hopland Ranches Zinfandel. Production in 2006 was just over 3300 cases making it their largest single varietal bottling to date.  Considering the total production for Brutocao Cellars is 12,000 they're clearly vested in this great varietal.

Two days and wines into my week long coverage of Brutocao Cellars, the story of their wines is emerging. These are appealing, food friendly wines which are also fairly priced.

Up Next from Brutocao Cellars: Quadriga, a blend of four Italian Varietals

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Brutocao Cellars - 2005 Chardonnay Riserva d' Argento

Back in January at the Sun Wine Fest I tasted many excellent wines. Several of the standout wineries of the weekend were from areas in California that aren't always on the tip of peoples tongues when they think of picking up a  bottle. In this case, the winery is Brutocao Cellars and the area is Mendocino County. Often times wines from these areas provide better values than the better known regions. During this week I'll post my impressions of six releases from Brutocao Cellars. In addition to that I'll touch on some other aspects of what Brutocao Cellars is all about. 425 cases of the 2005 Chardonnay Riserva d'  Argento were produced. It was barrel fermented in French Oak. The retail price is $25.

Tropical fruit, vanilla spice and an undercurrent of green apple are all present in the nose of this 2005 Chardonnay. The first sip reveals creme brulee notes that are underpinned by toasty oak that is ever-present but does not detract from the fruit. The mod-palate is rich, creamy and opulent. The Risvera d' Argento's finish is long and lingering. Spice notes dance on the tongue along with some mineral notes at the wine comes to a close.

My taste in Chardonnay runs towards those made in a Chablis style. I'm happy to say that this release from Brutocao Cellars reminds me more of the wines of Chablis than it does typical California Chardonnay. The Brutocao 2005 Riserva d' Argento Chardonnay does have plenty of oak on it. But it's used in a restrained manner that enhances the fruit rather than overwhelming it. As such it's a wine that's made to serve with food. Oven roasted chicken would be a perfect accompaniment.

While there are many Chardonnays you could buy in the $25 price-range, I have only found a handful that offer the sort of complexity this one does in that price bracket. That makes this a wine that is well worth it's retail price. I'd bet it has a couple more years of enjoyable drinking ahead of it.

Up Next: Brutocao Cellars Zinfandel

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Brutocao Cellars

All the wine coverage this week will focus on Brutocao Cellarsfrom Mendocino California. My first experience with their wine was back in January at the Sun Wine Fest in Connecticut. A couple of their wines there impressed me and  I decided to take a closer look. I'll post reviews of six of their wines this week. Additionally I'll post information about their wine club and a unique program they have called Personal Vineyards. So please stay tuned all week to read about the wines of Brutocao Cellars.

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Smidge Wines - The Donald - Barossa Valley Zinfandel - 2005

The last selection I looked at from Smidge Wines this week is The Donald. It's a Zinfandel from Barossa Valley. It strikes me as fitting that Zinfandel is starting to emerge from Australia. Many of the characteristics of great Shiraz are reminiscent of great Zinfandel. So it should only be a matter of time before we see significant inroads in the amount of Zinfandel  being produced in Australia. If that's the case, Smidge Wines will have a leg up as they already produce two Zinfandel's. The Donald spent 11 months in 2-4 year oak before being bottled unfiltered. A mere 140 cases of The Donald were produced and it retails for $29.

The nose of The Donald is full of dark berry fruit and mocha notes. The first sip reveals lots of black pepper and spice continuing through a mid-palate that is deep, dark and reminiscent of Bosco due to the mouth-filling chocolate notes that absolutely envelope the palate and explode on the back of the throat with the smooth feel of syrup. The finish has some light toasty notes and more spice accompanied by the ever-present mocha notes that carry themselves throughout The Donald. This is a big, rich and extravagant tasting wine that's balanced by firm acidity and gentle tannins. A steak would be a terrific match for The Donald as would dark chocolate.

Zinfandel in Australia is essentially in it's infancy. But Smidge Wines has managed to produce one that is reminiscent of some of the great California Zinfandel's of the Dry Creek Valley. An area that often sets the benchmark for Zinfandel.

The Donald was tight and a bit tart coming out of the bottle. I recommend decanting it for about 90 minutes to get maximum pleasure when drinking it. Having had Smidge The Wine Australia Festival and again this week I feel strongly about recommending them as one to look out for. A ton of Australian Wine makes it to the Unite States and it's often hard to navigate through all that's available. Smidge Wines are one producer that it's worth going out of your way to find. I'd expect The Donald to drink well at least through 2011.

Coming Up: A Week long look at Mendocino's Brutocao Cellars

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Smidge Wines - The Adamo - 2005

One of the things Smidge Wines has stated they set out to do is make wines that have a sense of place. One of the key things with that is finding the right grapes for each area. It certainly makes sense then that they make a  Barossa Valley Shiraz. Many fine wines have emerged from Barossa, but Shiraz is king there. 300 Cases of the 2005 Adamo were made. 20% of it spent a year in new French oak. The remainder was aged in 2-4 year old oak. Adamo was bottled unfiltered.

Blackberry and spice lead the nose with leather and cedar notes present but far more subtle at first. The first sip of Adamo reveals lush, rich fruit that has a slight undercurrent of tartness. The tartness subsides as the wine breathes. The mid-palate has dark plum and mocha characteristics accompanied by copious spice notes. The finish, which is substantial in length has cherry and spice notes along with additional mocha that lingers. For a wine with very big fruit upfront Adamo is balanced by a terrific acidity. This wine would go perfectly with a pulled pork sandwich. Failing that, grilled meats in general would be a great match. In fact with Easter coming up, this is a great choice for anyone serving Lamb.

The bottom line is that Adamo is big, rich, opulent and expressive. Smidge Wines has created a terrific expression of Barossa Valley Shiraz. The retail price is $35, and it's well worth that. I'd expect this wine has at least 5 years of enjoyable drink-ability ahead of it.

The Donald, a Barossa Valley Zinfandel is next from Smidge Wines  

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Smidge Wines - 2005 - The Houdini

Smidge Wines is one of a handful of wineries that really stood out for me back in January at the Wine Australia Festival. That in mind, I decided, their wines were well worth a closer look. Over the next couple of days I'll examine three of their current releases. While Smidge Wines in Australia is a relatively new project, it's headed by some solid experience in the industry. Matt Wenk who founded Smidge Wines with his Wife Trish is the head winemaker at Barossa's highly regarded Two Hands. That he decided to focus some of his attention on his own boutique project is a boon for lovers of Australian Wine. First up from Smidge Wines is The Houdini. This wine is a blend of 50% Shiraz, 25% Zinfandel and 25% Merlot. Each varietal was aged separately in neutral oak and blended right before bottling. 330 Cases were produced.

The Houdini's nose reveals big, rich, dark berry fruit along with some subtler spice notes. As soon as I took the first sip I was hit with cassis and big jammy fruit. The mid-palate has a ton more dark berry fruit accompanied by mocha notes that become more prominent as The Houdini opens up. The finish on this wine is solid and filled with lots of spice and lingering mocha characteristics. This is a well balanced wine with good acidity.

The Houdini drinks pretty well right out of the bottle, but a solid hour in the decanter allows it sufficient time to reveal many of it's more complex qualities. The 25% Merlot that was blended in provides a solid backbone and some silky textures for this wine, allowing the brighter fruit of the Shiraz and Zinfandel to really shine up front. It pairs well with grilled meats and strong cheeses.

Smidge Wines The Houdini is an easy drinking wine with relatively soft tannins. I wouldn't expect it to improve much in the bottle, but 2-5 years of enjoyable drinking certainly seem plausible. The Houdini's most impressive trick is how quickly it disappears from your glass.

The suggested retail price for The Houdini is $24. At that price, this wine is delivers a lot of pleasure.

Up Next from Smidge Wines: The Adamo Barossa Valley Shiraz 

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New York Wine Expo

This weekend I attended the first annual New York Wine Expo. Similar events have take place in Boston and Washington DC for a number of years. The New York City version was held at the Jacob Javits Convention Center. Friday and Saturday was open to the public for $85 and $95 respectively. The event also took place on Sunday for those involved in the Wine trade in one form or another. With clearly numbered aisles and good organization it was easy to navigate around the venue and find particular wineries that were listed in program. The wines of a couple hundred producers were represented. Many wine producing regions were featured but Argentina had a particularly large representation. It was easy to see that there is quite a bit of diversity and quality coming out of this South American country, often at a great price. Being a New York event, local wines were also prominently showcased. In addition to those examples wines from Africa, Portugal, Chile among others were also featured along with the countries people traditionally think of when wine comes to mind.

Of particular note were some dessert wines from Cyprus that seemed to find the intersection between Sherry, Port and Madeira. I sampled four different releases and they were each remarkably delicious and distinct in character. A Pinot Noir from Fulcrum Wines of California also stood out. However these are just a few examples. There were a tremendous number of interesting wines to try throughout the weekend.

In addition to wine a few booths were dedicated to exhibiting food products such as cheese, organic snacks and churros. One strange thing for an event of this size was that bottled water was being sold. Most events of this magnitude seem to have a bottled water sponsor who doles out tons of the stuff for free to attendees. That said, regular ice water was available for free throughout the venue.

All things considered this was a very good event for Wine Lovers. The Javitz center has plenty of room and it was well organized and well run. If you missed it, look out for the 2nd annual New York Wine expo in early 2009.

This Week: Three Releases from Australian Producer Smidge Wines.

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La Tunella - 2006 BiancoSesto

One of the best whites I had at the Gambero Rosso Italian Wines Roadshow was BiancoSesto by La Tunella. The wine is a 50/50 blend of Ribolla Gialla and Tocai Friulano. Fermentation for this wine was in oak followed by aging in stainless steel vats before bottling. I found the nose of the wine to be incredibly fresh with a touch of vanilla in it. Mostly it smelled like summer to me. Tasting it was an eyeopener. BiancoSesto is very middle of the road in its taste. And I mean that in the best way possible. It has some of the citrus and crisp freshness associated with Sauvignon Blanc without the tartness some of them feature. The wine is substantial and complex like a fine Chardonnay but does not possess the characters that some overdone Chardonnays sometimes do. Most of all I found La Tunella BiancoSesto to be an impeccably balanced wine with good acidity.

In short BiancoSesto is a very appealing wine to drink both on it's own and with lighter foods such as soft cheeses, an entree salad or appetizers. If you're having a dinner party or friends and family over for any event this is a perfect "welcome wine" to greet people with at the door when they walk in. That said it's also a wine worth pairing with and contemplating over a thoughtfully prepared meal

BiancoSesto by La Tunella retails for approximately $20. For that price it provides a good deal of complexity in such an easy drinking wine. This is a unique experience well worth the money.

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Gambero Rosso - New York City

Yesterday was the Gambero Rosso Top Italian Wines Road Show in New York City. It was held at 583 Park Avenue, which proved to be an excellent venue for this type of event. The idea to have the best and highest rated Italian wines from the previous year under one roof, is a terrific one. Over two floors and dozens of tables one well made, well rated and often legendary wine after another was available for tasting. The gamut of Italian wines from traditional Chianti, Barberesco, Barolo etc were poured alongside the relatively newer Super-Tuscans and single varietal bottlings of things such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and the like.

One of the most interesting tastings of the day for me was a 3 year vertical of Verdicchio. The years on hand were 2002-2004. All three vintages were unique and interesting. However the 2002 was for my palate the one to drink now. It has achieved a minerality and subtlety that the younger vintages have yet to achieve. This was proof for anyone who tasted through them that some Italian whites can age very well. In fact for me the 2002 Umani Ronchi Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Plenio (imported by Bedford International) was one of the top two or three White Wines of the event. Considering the great wines being poured that says a lot.

There were approximately 170 of the best Italian Wines being poured yesterday. To get to all of them would have been impossible. That being the case I made my way around in a leisurely fashion throughout both floors and made a point to taste some wines such as Tignanello that I was already familiar with. But I made even more of an effort to seek out wines that I was previously either unfamiliar with or only knew by reputation. I should be covering some of these hear in the not too distant future.

The bottom line is that Italy is producing some of the best wines in the world. Overall quality across price levels was impressive. If you have a way to beg, borrow or steal your way into a future Gambero Rosso tasting, it's highly recommended.

Schug - 2006 Pinot Noirs

My look today at two of Schug's Pinot Noir releases closes the book on this weeks coverage of their wines. Similar to their Chardonnay program, Schug Carneros Estate has 3 different Pinot Noir releases. The Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is noteworthy for several reasons. It's worth mentioning that this is Schug's largest bottling at just under 14,000 cases. Which varietal a winery produces most of and how they do with it is something I often find to be very telling. While this wine was aged in oak, that was done in larger casks, limiting the exposure. The retail price on this wine is $22.

One thing that's immediately interesting to me is that this wine opens up very quickly. If the Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir were your date, she'd be a flirt for sure. As soon as you raise the glass a huge bouquet wild strawberries roars out. It's underscored by subtler rhubarb scents. The first sips and the mid-palate feature a bevy of tremendous cherry and spice notes. The finish, which I found to be above average for this price point, features a lot of spice, lingering cherry and tingly mineral notes that cling to the tongue and back of the throat. 

This Schug Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir is silky and lithe. There is firm acidity and the wine is well balanced.  It is the sort of Pinot Noir that's a pleasure to drink on it's own. That said it will marry well with a wide variety of foods. What I said about quality Chardonnay in this price range goes doubly for Pinot Noir in my opinion. This wine, at this price, is unquestionably a bargain as far as I'm concerned. With 14,000 cases on the market this should be an easy one to find. If you like well made, accessible Pinot Noir, do yourself a favor and locate this one.

Approximately 7,500 cases of the 2006 Schug Carneros Pinot Noir were produced. It spent 2 months in large oak casks and 9 months in 30% new French oak barrels. Fruit was sourced from a handful of vineyards in Carneros. The retail price is $26.

The first thing that hit me was the earthiness of this wine. The nose is full of mushroom and dry cherry notes. Some spice notes emerge on the nose as the wine opens up. Unlike the Sonoma Coast Pinot, the Carneros plays hard to get. Either decant it for an hour or so, or pour a glass and drink it slowly over a few hours to witness it evolving. The first sips reveal sour cherry notes and subtle cola characteristics. The oak adds toast and vanilla notes that really emerge in the mid-palate. As with the Sonoma Coast Pinot, the Carneros bottling has an above average finish in it's category. While I found this wine to be a great match for a grilled pork chop it should go well with a wide array of foods. Considering the earthiness, I think mushroom dishes are a natural match. Drink this one now or hold it for a few years and watch more earthiness emerge.

Once again this wine over-delivers at it's price-point. There is more complexity in this wine than the Sonoma Coast Pinot. They have different mission statements and in my opinion they both achieve them. What I like most about the Carneros Pinot Noir is that it's the sort of bottle I could drink over a long evening. Whether I chose to enjoy it's evolution as I paired it with food, or simply decided to contemplate the loveliness of Pinot Noir as a varietal, I'd be happy with my choice.

Having tasted 6 wines from Schug Carneros Estate this week, it's unquestionable there is a house style. They make wines that are well balanced, which allow the fruit to shine and pair wonderfully with food. These are wines you can live with and enjoy anytime, knowing you're getting at least fair value for your money. I recommend checking out their website which has a lot of information about the wines and the history of the Winery. You can also read about several wine club options they offer. And while all of their wines are enjoyable, I found the most pleasure in their Pinots.

Next Week: Coverage of "Gambero Rosso" the Italian Wines Roadshow in New York City.

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Schug - 2005 Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

My first time trying the wines of Schug Carneros Estate was this past January at the Sun Wine Fest. Up until that point my familiarity with them was by reputation. So when I noticed they were represented, I made a point to taste through their wines. The wines were sufficiently impressive that I knew immediately I wanted to cover some of them here. Today's selection is a 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon. Just over 3,000 cases of this Sonoma Valley designated wine were bottled. 13% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 1% Syrah were blended with the Cabernet Sauvignon. The retail price is $26.

The first thing apparent to me about this wine is how much the Cabernet Franc does to lift the nose of this wine. Dark berry fruit abounds in the bouquet along with subtle spice notes. The first sips reveal a lot more spice and copiuous black cherry fruit. As these carry through the mid-palate they are joined by some clove and strong mocha characteristics. This Cabernet finishes with an underlying earthiness and continued spice notes. This wine is rich and mouth-filling. It's a natural companion to heartier fare. A steak would certainly suit it rather well. I found it to pair perfectly with a beef barley stew.

To fully enjoy this wine now, I recommend decanting it for a minimum of an hour. It needs that time to really open up and reveal all it's layers and charm. As with the other releases I have looked at from Schug, this Cabernet is very well balanced and quite frankly elegant. The use of oak is apparent but well in check. The style of this wine reminds me a bit of a Wellington Cabernet I looked at a few weeks ago. Both are well crafted wines from Sonoma, whose balanced style strike me as more typically European than Californian.

Although it's drinking well now I'd expect this wine to improve nicely over the next handful of years. The earthiness which is present now will likely become more readily apparent. Whether you want to drink it tonight with dinner, or lay it down for a few years, the 2005 Sonoma Valley Cabernet is another solid bet from Schug.

Coming Friday: This weeks look at Schug Carneros Estate closes with two Pinot Noir releases

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Schug Carneros Estate - 2006 Chardonnays

Today I'm looking at a couple of 2006 Chardonnays from Schug, the Sonoma Coast and the Carneros. In addition to those they also make a third, more limited, Chardonnay known as Carneros Heritage Reserve. Walter Schug whose vision has guided the winery since he founded it in 1980, learned wine-making in his native Germany. This experience strikes me as particularly relevant and helpful when making varietals such as Chardonnay or Pinot Noir that love cooler wine growing regions. The Sonoma Coast Chardonnay is Schug's entry level offering of this varietal. The retail price is $22. With just over 7,300 cases made, this is Schug's second largest production. The nose reveals a lot of citrus and a hint of spice. The first sip shows more spice and citrus notes along with peach and pear characteristics that carry through the mid-palate. The finish of the Sonoma Coast Chardonnay has white pepper and little touch of candied apple. This is a medium bodied wine with firm acidity. Oak is detectable and adds to the spice characteristics throughout, but never overshadows the fruit.  I found this wine to be a great complement for a classic panini with tomato, basil and fresh mozzarella. Most lighter fare will be a good match for it as well. It's also light and refreshing enough to enjoy on it's own.

It's not always easy to find well made Chardonnay from California in this price range. The Schug Sonoma Coast Chardonnay is a winner. What pleases me most about it is it's true varietal character. This is a wine made to drink in it's youth.

The Carneros Chardonnay comes mostly (96%) from Carneros fruit. Half of that is from the Schug Estate. In a lot of ways the Carneros Chardonnay is a bird of a different feather. Even from the vanilla in the nose it reveals the additional use of oak which lends itself to greater complexity. Pear and spice present themselves in the first sip. The mid-palate has a buttery apple pie note accompanied by significant mulled spice characteristics. The finish is clean, crisp and quite refreshing. This is a bigger, richer wine with a rounder mouth-feel than the Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. Still the use of oak is restrained and never over the top. Sufficient acidity is present to make this a well balanced effort. More than the Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, this one seems to need food.

Just over 5,000 cases of the 2006 Schug Carneros Chardonnay were produced and it retails for $26. Wine-Searcher shows that it's available pretty widely for closer to $22. For either price you're getting a good amount of complexity and a well crafted wine for your money. I would expect this wine to drink well for a couple of years.

Both Chardonnays from Schugare well made wines that are also fairly priced. Beyond that it's a question of taste. My personal preference was for the Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. It has an easy drink-ability about it, which for me makes it a more than solid "everyday drinker." It's a workhorse Chardonnay, which seems to be it's intent. The Carneros Chardonnay offers more complexity, structure and room for contemplation. Also a solid bet, especially, paired appropriately with food. It's a Chardonnay you'll enjoy if you want to get a little "dressed up" for dinner.

Up Next: Schug Carneros Estate 2005 Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

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Schug - 2006 Sauvignon Blanc

Up first, in my coverage of Schug Carneros Estate wines, is their 2006 Sauvignon Blanc. The fruit was sourced from several diverse vineyards in Sonoma County and just over 1,600 cases of this wine were produced. Retail price on this Sauvignon Blanc is $18. A ton of grapefruit is the main story of this Sauvignon Blanc's nose. The first sips reveals an accompanying zesty tartness. That tartness disappears pretty quickly as the wine opens up a bit in the glass. This gives way to a lot more fruit flavors that coat the mouth through the mid-palate. More grapefruit, melon and lychee fruit come out and carry on through the substantial finish, which also features an underlying spiciness that tingles the tongue and back of the throat in a very pleasant manner. This wine is clean, crisp and very well balanced. Some of the wine was aged in large oak casks. This added a layer of complexity, but is subtle enough not to detract from the fruit.

This Sauvignon Blanc is an excellent match for mild cheeses. I had it with a wine cured goat cheese and found it to be a perfect complement. I expect it would also be a terrific match for entree salads and other lighter foods. Though it's built for food, this wine also works well sipped on it's own. Drinking it made wish for summer to get here quickly.

For $18 the 2006 Schug Sauvignon Blanc is undoubtedly a good buy. What impressed me the most about it is the impeccable balance and restraint it shows. Often Sauvignon Blancs swing too far one way or the other for my taste. The 2006 Schug Sauvignon Blanc however, is right in my sweet spot for this varietal.

Tomorrow: A look at two distinct Chardonnays from Schug Carneros Estate.

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Schug Carneros Estate

This week I'll be taking a look at 6 wines from Schug Carneros Estate in Somoma California. Schug is a family owned and run operation that was founded in 1980. They produce approximately 25,000 cases of wine per year. Walter Schug whose roots run deep in California Wine industry history, founded Schug. Previous to striking out on his own he worked for Gallo and was then the winemaker at Joseph Phelps. While at Phelps, among other things, he made Insignia which remains a benchmark California Wine. Since 1996 their head winemaker has been Michael Cox, a Somoma native. He had previously worked side by side with Walter Schug as his assitant winemaker. Prior to that he'd worked in the cellar at Dry Creek Vineyards and at Napa's De Moor Vineyards as Winemaker. At the time he was Napa's youngest winemaker.  

Over the next few days I'll take a look at Schug Carneros Estate's Sauvigon Blanc, two of their Chardonnays, Two Pinot Noirs and a Cabernet Sauvignon. Please check back and read about the wines being produced by this reputable New World Winery. The wines they are producing reflect a sense of place reminiscent of their Old World fore-bearers.

Santa Ema - 2003 Syrah

Santa Ema is a Chilean Winery founded by Italian immigrants. Best known for some of their value priced wines, they also make some selections in premium price ranges. The 2003 Santa Ema Syrah is amongst their value priced offerings. Retail is around $11 but it can generally be found in the $8 price range.

Deep garnet in color, this wine offers spice, earthiness and a bouquet of blueberries on the nose. The first sip reveals more dark berry fruit, loads of pepper and soft, ripe tannins, all which carry through the mid-palate. The finish features chocolate and subtle leather notes. There is some noticeable oak but it's use was judicious as it doesn't get in the way of the fruit. The Santa Ema Syrah is well balanced with appropriate acidity. This wine is a perfect match for pizza or a dish of pasta. It's bound to go nicely with dark chocolate as well.

Considering the relatively low price tag, this wine is a nice bargain. It delivers more varietal character than is often found at this price range, as well as a decent amount of complexity. That said it's surely not intended for long term aging. Drink this one up before the calender hits 2009.

Coming Next Week: A Look at 6 current releases from Sonoma's Schug Winery.

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Robert Mondavi - 2005 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

I suppose it's fitting that the final selection for Cabernet Sauvignon Week is from Robert Mondavi Winery. The story of the Mondavi impact on the California Wine Industry is retold often enough that it doesn't bear repeating here. As with many of the larger wineries, that are now owned by corporations, the Mondavi brand has a wide reach at numerous price and quality levels. Today's Cabernet is from the Napa Valley series. For me, it's at this level up that one can seriously consider the Mondavi wines. The Mondavi 2005 Napa Valley Cabernet is in fact 85% Cabernet Sauvignon. The other 15% is made up of parts of all four of the other Bordeaux varietals.

The nose of this wine reveals oak, vanilla and a lot of spice. What becomes immediately apparent when taking the first sip is that this wine is young. There is an upfront tartness that dissipates as the wine breathes, but is still apparent. Blueberry, mocha and white pepper come out and resonate through the mid-palate. There are present, slightly rough, tannins in this wine. A sign that it needs some time in the bottle. The finish is slightly above average in length with more spice and a very subtle earthiness. The 2005 Mondavi Cabernet shows good acidity and is well balanced. The alcohol is a somewhat surprising 15%, but it doesn't come across that way when drinking it.

It's clear to me that this wine needs more time in the bottle to resolve itself. Six months to a year should make a huge difference. My bet is that it'll be enjoyable to drink for 7 or 8 years after that. Suggested retail is $28. Check Wine-Searcher though as it can easily be found for $20 or under. This is a well made Cabernet that needs some time to be fully enjoyed.

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