Etko Wines - Commandaria Centurion

A couple of months back I had the opportunity to try some dessert wines from Cyprus. It was my first experience with wines from this island. Whenever I'm at a large-scale tasting, as I was on this day I keep my eyes open for anyone pouring dessert wines, as they're of particular interest to me. Much like the larger world of wine itself they're made from a wide array of varietals in a host of different styles. I'm going to look at several dessert wines from Cyprus. The first two will be from Etko Wines, which is the oldest Greek Cypriot Winery. Additionally the Etko wines are from the Commandaria region, which is the oldest wine appellation in the world. Wines have been made there since 1,000 BC. Etko Winery itself was founded in 1844. Etko Wines Commandaria Centurion is a blend of 60% Xynisteri and 40% Mavro. The wine is made from a cuvee ranging in age from 30 to 100 years. Centurion has a suggested retail price of $130. A looked around on wine-searcher and it can be found for around $99. Alcohol is 16%, fairly modest for a dessert wine.

Centurion has an immense nose filled with honey; figs, raisins, apricot and other assorted dried fruits along with gingerbread spice and a hint of espresso bean. The first sips bring out apricot, fruitcake spice, additional fig and date bread notes. These carry on through the mid-palate, which is underpinned by a subtle hint of balsamic vinegar. The finish, which is long, luxurious and persistent in its intensity, has subtle cinnamon notes and hints of chicory, which lend to some earthiness.

Most wine producing regions have a signature style of dessert wine. Some have several. Italy has Vin Santo, France Sauternes and in the US we have late harvest wines. Cyprus has the Commandaria area, which produces some lovely wines. Centurion is a complex, layered and elegant dessert wine befitting its status as a benchmark wine.

At a suggested retail price of $130 this isn't by any means an inexpensive wine. But it's a tremendous wine well worth experiencing. Centurion would be a perfect dessert to serve guests at the end of a dinner party or gathering with close friends and family.

Up Next: Another Commandaria Dessert Wine from Etko.

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Locatelli Vineyards & Winery - 2006 Melodia

The final wine I'm looking at this week from Locatelli Vineyards & Wineryis a blend. They make several other blends as well. The other red blends are more focused on Bordeaux varietals. Melodia is a distinctly California style blend. Locatelli Vineyards 2006 Melodia is a 50/50 blend of Zinfandel & Petite Sirah. Only 59 cases of this wine were produced and it sells for $35.

Dark plum, violet and vanilla notes comprise the expressive nose of this wine. From the very first sip Melodia proves itself to be a full, mouth-filling wine at both the high and low end of the flavor spectrum. Tons of berry fruit present throughout. On the mid-palate they're accompanied by fruitcake spices. The finish of this wine is long and persistent with copious dark chocolate and spice notes dominating along with subtle earthiness. The wine would be an excellent accompaniment to roast leg of lamb or other substantial foods.

Melodia is alternately layered, complex, big and beefy. Decanting this wine for at least an hour is recommended to get the best out of it now. I imagine a year or so down the road it'll be drinking even better than it is at this time. Towards that end I re-tasted this wine after it had been open for a full 24 hours. What I found is a wine that was even more open expressive and ultimately impressive  than it was on the first night.

Zinfandel and Petite Sirah blended together in California are as natural as grape partners come.  Often times It's a small percentage of one of the other blended into a varietal bottling. In this case they get equal billing. It works tremendously well. I enjoyed all three Locatelli wines I tasted through this week, but Melodia was my favorite. I suspect with that Petite Sirah backbone it might age the best as well. If you're interested, grab them now I understand the already small production is dwindling.

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Locatelli Vineyards & Winery - 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon

A 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon is the second release I'm looking at from Locatelli Vineyards & Winery. Cabernet isn't one of the primary varietals I think of when Paso Robles comes to mind. But I'm always curious to see what a producer is up to with this much discussed grape.

The 2004 Locatelli Cabernet Sauvignon was aged in a combination of French and American oak for 3 ½ years. This wine sells for $20.

This Cabernet Sauvignon has a big nose full of casis, berry fruit, vanilla and cedar notes. Initial sips find this big, rich Cabernet to be a little tight and in need of some air. Decanting for an hour or so is heartily recommended to allow this wine to show it's best. Once this offering has opened up it shows big, ripe berry fruit, good acidity and firm tannins. There are loads of blackberry notes in the mid-palate underscored by a persistent mocha note. The finish features dark, dried fruit notes with underlying white pepper and spice notes. Pair this wine with a steak or other suitably big foods.

The bottom line is that there's nothing small, restrained or gentle about this Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a big, exuberant, full bodied and opulent Cabernet Sauvignon befitting its Paso Robles home. Along those lines if you like big, juicy, fruit forward wines that also have a good level of complexity, this is a wine to check out. If you're outside of California, contact the winery directly as many of their offerings are limited production.

Coming Up: Melodia, a blend from Locatelli Vineyards & Winery.

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Locatelli Vineards & Winery - 2006 Old Vines Zinfandel

Over the next couple of days I'll look at a few red wines from Locatelli Vineatrds & Winery in Paso Robles. They are a family operation, having been founded by Louis Gregory, the Great Grandson of an Italian Immigrant with a long wine making tradition, and his wife Raynette.  Additionally they're also boutique winery that makes small lots of handcrafted wines.  Their offerings are a combination of blends and varietal bottlings. I'll take at wine from each of those categories. Locatelli Vineyards & Winery 2006 Old Vine Zinfandel was sourced from Ranchita Canyon Vineyard. A small amount of Petite Sirah was also blended in. 60 Cases of this Estate wine were produced and it sells for $22.

Both bright and dark berry notes along with vanilla and an underlying touch of cotton candy fill the nose of this wine. From the first sip onward black cherry is one of the dominant flavors in this Zinfandel. A ton of white pepper and other assorted and more subtle spice notes emerge on the mid-palate and carry through to the finish. That finish, which is of above average length features some earthiness and a touch of cedar.

This offering is a classic example of Old Vine Zinfandel. Deep, dark fruit, brambly earth notes and lots of spice. It has an intense, persistent palate and a terrific finish. It's also a smooth wine with no rough edges at all on it. Despite alcohol well over 15% this wine doesn't drink hot at all. Modestly priced at $22, and limited to 60 cases, if you love Zinfandel this is one to grab before it's gone. I happen to believe that Zinfandel is one of the varietals that Paso Robles is most notable for. That said, this is a particularly terrific rendition.

Coming Up: Two more releases from Locatelli Vineyards & Winery.

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Sebeka - 2006 Shiraz-Pinotage "Cape Blend"

Sebeka Wines is a South African brand, launched with the 2006 vintage. Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay are amongst their varietal offerings. Today I'm going to look at one of their blends, the 2007 Shiraz/Pinotage "Cape Blend." More and more wines from South Africa are popping up on American shelves. For people like me, who love to taste something new and different whenever I have the chance, this is a great development. The 2006 Sebeka Cape Blend is 60% Shiraz and 40% Pinotage. Each varietal underwent malolactic fermentation separately before being blended. This suggested retail price for this wine is $8.99.

Aromas of dark berry, cherry, vanilla and subtle mocha are all featured in the nose along with a light underpinning of smoke. The first sip reveals some tartness. Decanting for about 30 minutes is recommended as it really allows this offering to blossom. Once it has opened up there is plenty of cherry and jammy berry fruit throughout. Earthiness, spice and a touch more mocha come out in the mid-palate and linger through a nice finish.

Even though this wine is only 40% Pinotage, the grape makes it's presence felt with characteristic spice, smoke, earth and cherry flavors starring in this budget priced offering. At its more than reasonable price tag this wine over delivers in it's category, making it a solid contender for an everyday red. This is the kind of red wine you'll want to bring to BBQ's all summer long. It's complex enough to satisfy red wine drinkers and approachable enough to please and perhaps convert the white wine crowd. Their wide availability also helps make them a go to choice.

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Kiamie Wine Cellars - 2006 White Kuvée

The last wine I'm looking at from Kiamie WIne Cellars is their White Kuvée. This wine is the only White currently in their portfolio. The reputation that Paso Robles has made as a wine-producing region is largely predicated on their reds. However, more and more, there are some noteworthy whites emerging from this region too. Whether it's the quartet of distinct Chardonnays produced by Carmody Mcknight, the lovely Viognier being crafted year after year by Victor Hugo or the host of Rhone varietals being produced by Garretson Wine Company, Paso Robles is more of a player when it comes to excellent whites than I think the average consumer has been led to believe. The Kiamie White Kuvée is 64% Roussanne and 35% Viognier. Fruit for this wine was sourced from the Derby Vineyard. A mere 250 cases of this blend were produced and the suggested retail price is $24.

Citrus fruits, white peach, vanilla and a soft almond note fill the nose of the White Kuvée. This wine has a round, smooth mouth feel. It's full in the mid-palate with mango notes and clings to he back of the throat a little like honey does. Lemon Zest, mineral notes and nutmeg spice are featured in the long, lingering finish. This wine is balance with nice acidity and will match up very well with a wide array of light summer fare. It drinks well on it's own as well.

With the White Kuvée, I must say that Kiamie Wine Cellars is three for three in solid and enjoyable wines. This blend in particular is well layered with good complexity. It should drink well through 2009. As with the other 2 wines it's impressive what they've done with their debut releases. I look forward to watching where they go next.

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Kiamie Wine Cellars - Kiamie Kuvée

The Cabernet Sauvignon I've already looked at from Kiamie Wine Cellars is currently their lone varietal bottling. Their other two releases are both blends. The Kiamie Kuvée I'm looking at today is the flagship offering of their young brand. The 2005 Kiamie Kuvée is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 12% Syrah, 8% Malbec & 5% Zinfandel. Grapes were sourced from four distinct vineyards on the Westside of Paso Robles. The wine was aged for 18-20 months in 40% new French and Hungarian Oak. 1000 cases of the Kiamie Kuvée were produced and the suggested retail price is $44.

Bright berry fruit and vanilla notes fill the nose of the Kiamie Kuvée. The first sip reveals some tartness. This subsides after some time in the glass. Decanting this one for an hour or even two would be hugely beneficial at this point in this young wines life. Once it opens up dark jammy berry fruit and black pepper emerge. Black Cherry is the main story in the mid-palate with spice underpinning it. Subtle earthiness emerges in the finish, which is fairly lengthy.

I enjoy proprietary blends that go outside of he box. In this case what I mean is that they chose not to stick with just either Bordeaux or Rhone varietals. Kiamie Wine Cellars uses varietals from each of those areas. And in addition to that, the inclusion of Zinfandel seems like a nod not only to California, but specifically Paso Robles, which is known for some tremendously exciting Zinfandels.

The Kiame Wine Cellars Kuvée is a very good wine that needs some time to reach it's full potential. Right now it's a little tight. A year or so in the bottle should do wonders for this blend and it's cohesiveness. After that it should drink nicely for 6 or more years. As with the Cabernet Sauvignon this is another solid effort, particularly for a premiere vintage. I'm looking forward to revisiting Kiamie Wine Cellars Kuvée in future vintages to see the strides and growth it experiences as time and vintages pass

Up Next: Kiamie Wine Cellars: White Kuvée..

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Kiamie Wine Cellars - 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon

Regular readers of this blog have probably noted that Paso Robles is one of my favorite California Appellations. Numerous things about this area are appealing to me. One huge item though is how quickly new producers are coming on line. Rapid expansion often leads to wineries changing hands, new vines planted and all sorts of other permutations. All of that adds up to the excitement of new offerings to taste through. One of those new players in Paso Robles is Kiamie Wine Cellars. They have recently released their first three wines. I'll be looking at each of them over the next couple of days. Kiamie Wine Cellars focuses on blending the best grapes they can acquire from mountain vineyards on the Westside of Paso Robles. That they focus on blending is no surprise when you consider their winemaker is Steve Glossner. He was the winemaker at landmark Paso Robles winery Justin for a number of years. That time included the period during which they received some of their greatest accolades for the proprietary blend Isosceles.

The first wine I'm looking at is their Cabernet Sauvignon. With 75% of it being varietal, it just meets the requirement to be labeled as such. The other 25% of the blend is Cabernet Franc. Grapes for this wine were sourced at the Halter Ranch. 500 Cases of the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon were produced and the suggested retail price is $32.00.

Without delay or hesitation the Cabernet Franc makes it's presence known in the nose. Dark plum pudding and gingerbread spice dominate. From the first sip this wine shows itself to be a rich, ripe and bold expression of Cabernet Sauvignon. Significant amounts of dark berry fruit, nutmeg, black pepper and toasty notes define this wines mid-palate. The finish has continued berry and pepper notes with underlying mocha that comes out more prominently as the wine opens up. A wine this full bodied and expressive deserves to be paired with an equally big meal. Steak and Rack of  Lamb come to mind as obvious matches.

Decanting this wine is highly recommended. It's such an appealing wine out of the bottle with an nose so outstanding it'll be hard to resist waiting an hour or so after opening it. But that hour allows it to smooth out and become even more expressive than it is out of the bottle. You're patience will undoubtedly be rewarded.

The Kiamie Wine Cellars 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon is very much a modern new world styled Cabernet Sauvignon. It does possess firm acidity and medium tannins suggesting you could lay it down for about 5 years. An impressive wine, particularly for a debut vintage. If you like your Cabernet big, bold and full of appealing fruit, snap this one up.

Up Next:Kiamie Wine Cellars Kiamie Kuvée.

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Mil Piedras - 2006 Malbec

Those familiar with Argentina know that there are a number of terrific wines being produced there. Anyone who has tasted enough Argentine offerings knows that they can certainly hold their own with a wide array of varietals. However to a lot of people the first thing they think of when it comes to Argentina is Malbec. This is understandable. While they're showing they can make Cabernet Sauvignon to compete with the worlds best for example, no other country has shown they can make Malbec to compete with the best offerings coming out of Argentina. So it stands to reason that most Argentine wineries not only make Malbec but they often make more than one. Under the Mil Piedras label Benvenuto de la Serna there is one stand alone varietal Malbec. Additionally their lone blend features a heavy percentage of Malbec as well. The 2006 Mil Piedras Malbec was produced from 7 year old Estate vines. 4,000 cases of this wine were produced and it sells for approximately $10.

This Malbec is a deeply colored wine with an expressive nose of plum, vanilla and blackberry. A rich, round mouth feel defines the palate in the form of blackberry jam, sour cherry and spice notes. Dark berry fruit lingers on the finish along with very gentle spices. This wine sips well on it's own, but will also be a good complement to a burger or other grilled foods.

For a Malbec in the $10 price range the Mil Piedras is more subtly layered and complex then many in that category. Often Malbecs in this range tend to be of the brawnier variety. This one is a change of pace from that and another nice value from Mil Piedras.

This is the last wine from Mil Piedras I'm looking at this week. In a couple of weeks however I'll be looking at their Rosé.

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Up Next: The Wines of Kiamie Wine Cellars.

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Mil Piedras - 2006 Sangiovese

The Mil Piedras line of wines from Benvenuto de la Serna includes five offerings that are each 100% varietal, and one blend. My first experience having these wines was at a large tasting about 3 months ago. I made a note to revisit them. I wanted to see if the positive impression they left me with the first time around was accurate. The Viognier I have already reexamined was even more impressive than I recalled. Today I'm looking at their Sangiovese, which is certainly a fitting varietal for a transplanted Italian winery owner to produce. The 2006 Mil Piedras Sangiovese is produced from 7-year-old Estate vines. 1600 case of this wine were produced and it sells for around $10.

The nose of this wine is full of cherries, light vanilla and cedar notes. The first sip reveals more cherries, strawberries and spice notes. Without question cherry is the dominant flavor of this wine. Not surprising, as that's often the case with this varietal. Those cherry notes are a little richer and slightly brighter than what one might expect from similarly priced Chianti. The finish features linger spice notes and an emerging earthiness. Modest alcohol and excellent acidity make this a wine that shows best with food. I found it to go very well with a wild mushroom Risotto.

What stands out most to me about this Sangiovese is how smooth and elegant it is for such a modestly priced offering. As with the Viognier it over delivers in its price category. With some exceptions, Sangiovese made outside of Italy can be a dicey proposition. Sangiovese made away from it's native home has often big made in an over the top, extracted style which I don't feel suits it. This offering from Mil Piedras is a nice every day value made in the grapes more suited, fruity but balanced style.

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Up Next: A Malbec from Mil Piedras.

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Mil Piedras - 2007 Viognier

Mil Piedras is a line of wines from Argentine producer Benvenuto de la Serna. Silvio Benvenuto who founded an built the winery with his family is an Itlaian immigrant. Angel Mendoza who is a large piece of what Trapiche has achieved is the enologist. In essence the winery has joined together the wine making tradition of Italy and Argentina. I'll look at several of their wines this week. First up is a Viognier. The 2007 Mil Piedras Viognier un-oaked. 2000 cases of this wine were produced. It sells for around $9.

Lush fruit flavors such as apricot, peach and subtle mango fill the nose and palate of this wine. The mid palate is fruity with a hearty acidity. On the finish fruit notes linger along with subtle white pepper and a hint of honey. This wine is refreshing and crisp making it a good bet as an aperitif or welcome wine. It will also pair well with all manner of Asian cuisine as well as other full flavored foods. Grilled chicken topped with mango chutney comes to mind as a perfect compliment.

What I like most about this Viognier is that it displays plenty of pure varietal character. It's fresh and unburdened by oak. For around $9 this is a wine easily affordable to drink all summer.

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Up Next: A Sangiovese from Mil Piedras.

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Dinner With Winemaker Bob Pepi

Wednesday night at Brasserie 8 ½ I had the opportunity to have dinner with Winemaker Bob Pepi. Along with his father he founded, grew and later sold Pepi Winery and the name. He now acts as a consultant for other producers as well as recently jumping back into the ring with his own label, Eponymous. Since the mid 1990's one of his main projects has been Bodegas Valentin Bianchi in Argentina, which is in its 3rd generation as a Family Winery. I looked at a trio of wines from Valentin Bianchi back in April. That only touched on their portfolio, which includes a wide array of wines in several tiers. Sitting at the very top of the Valentin Bianchi Family of Wines is Enzo Bianchi. This wine is named after one of the founder's sons. The dinner with Bob Pepi was a rare opportunity to sample 7 vintages of Enzo side by side.

One of the most fascinating aspects of this tasting was the first and last wine in the vertical. The 1992 Enzo predates Bob Pepi's involvement and was actually never released. It was their first attempt at a serious barrel aged Bordeaux blend wine. No one is really sure what the exact blend for this is but it's likely close to all Cabernet Sauvignon. For a 16-year old wine it was drinking quite nicely. Spice, leather and earthiness were the most prominent characteristics. It's a highly perfumed Cabernet and the first sign that Enzo is an age-worthy wine. At the opposite end of the spectrum was the 2005 Enzo. This wine won't be released until the fall. The 2005 is nicely structured and the biggest of the Enzo's but still tight at this point in its very young life. After some time in the decanter it began to open up. When it comes out in the fall it'll be a wine to lay down for a few years to reach maximum appeal.

Over dinner Bob discussed some of his thoughts on wine making and what he attempts to do. Hi attitude towards oak is that he believes in using as much oak as will benefit a wine without overshadowing the fruit. One of the biggest changes he's made with the production of Enzo over the years is the barrel mix. He's a firm believer that some barrels are specifically better for aromatics while other exude greater influence on the mouth feel. Each vintage he strives to find the perfect mix of barrels for the wine he's making.

There were eight of us at dinner. While I'm not sure it was unanimous, the clear favorite for most of us was the 1997 Enzo. At least on Wednesday night that vintage showed the best. It was a layered wine, still showing nice tannic structure at 11 years of age with spice mocha and a lingering finish. Its nose was still big and youthful, belying its age.

The 1999 Enzo represented the first year Merlot was include in the blend. As Bob explained it was simply the first year he had suitable Merlot fruit to include in their flagship blend. After the 1997 I was most fond of the 1999 which had a nice round mouth-feel and plenty of dark fruit.

The other Enzo's we tasted through were the 1995, 2000 and 2003. Each wine certainly had its standout characteristics. For instance the 1995 featured prominent mocha notes and the 2003 the darkest fruit. The most impressive hallmark of the Enzo's as a whole was their consistency. Each wine was at a different place in its drinking window but they all are part of a continuing story. On the one hand that story is the wonderful wines that Valentin Bianchi and Bob Pepi are making year in and year out. But the more specific point for me with Enzo is the fact that this is a benchmark South American wine. Every region has the wines that are looked at to gauge quality. For Cabernet Sauvignon in Chile they have Don Melchor as one example. It's clear to me after tasting 7 vintages of Enzo side by side that Enzo Bianchi is a reference point in Argentine wine.

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2 Cabernet Sauvignons From Sawtooth Winery

This weeks coverage of Sawtooth Winerycomes to a close with today's offerings. I'm taking a look at 2 Cabernet Sauvignons from different vintages and in different tiers at Sawtooth Winery. The first in their 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon from their main tier of wines. This selection is 77% Cabernet Sauvignon with 10% Merlot, 7% Petite Verdot, 4% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc making up the balance. 1,350 cases of this wine were produced and it retails for $14.99.

Violets, dark berry fruit and a persistent cedar aroma make up this wines nose. Taking the first sip I was struck by an abundance of sweet rich berry fruit. A bit of tartness appears at first and decanting this wine is recommended. After it had a chance to breathe and open up it displayed silky smooth character throughout while maintaining a good tannin structure. Spice notes and earthiness populate the medium length finish.

Having all 5 Bordeaux varietals helps create a balanced wine that has good complexity for it's price point.

The second wine is Sawtooth's2004 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. This one is also a blend of all 5 Bordeaux varietals. 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petite Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Merlot and 1% Malbec make up the reserves blend. Only 150 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $24.99.

More so than the 2005 even, this reserve Cabernet Sauvignon requires decanting. An hour really does the trick and allows the wine to shine. Loads of cherry notes and an undercurrent of spice dominate both the nose and the palate of this wine. The mid-plate is rich, fruity and mouth filling. This wine is well balanced throughout displaying structure, complexity and a persistent intensity. The reserve Cabernet Sauvignon has an excellent finish full of vanilla, white pepper and nutmeg with subtle mocha notes underpinning them all. A wine like this deserves to be paired with a steak or other substantial meal.

After it was open a full 24 hours I retasted the reserve Cabernet and it was still holding strong, perhaps drinking even better than it had the previous day.

The 2 Cabernet Sauvingons from Sawtooth Winery are quite distinct. The 2005 is a solid wine, with good value in it's price category. It offers solid varietal character and is a good bet for a solid Cabernet affordable enough to drink everyday. The 2004 Reserve at a higher price point is still a good value as it offers even more character and complexity. It's also likely to improve in the bottle over the next 5 or so years.

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Sawtooth Winery - 2004 Tempranillo

The third wine up from Sawtooth Winery is a Tempranillo. For those unfamiliar this grape is most often found in the Rioja region of Span. This is not only my favorite region for Spanish wine, but also one of my favorite wine regions in the world. Over the years I've sampled Tempranillo from other areas of the world with mixed results. Most often the wines produced from Tempranillo outside of Spain are in sharp contrast to the ones emerging from this grapes native home. So when I had the chance to taste a Tempranillo from Idaho, I was curious, to say the least. Having enjoyed the previous Sawtooth offerings I've run through this week, my anticipation for the Tempranillo increased. The 2004 Tempranillo from Sawtooth Winery is one of their smaller productions. Only 140 cases of this wine were produced in what was only their second vintage for Tempranillo. The Retail price is $18.99. This wine is finished with a natural cork closure.

The Sawtooth 2004 Tempranillo has an appealing nose of plum and violets, underscored by subtle spice notes. The palate of this wine is rich with cherries from the first sip you take through to the finish, which is full of spice notes that kick in about midway through. Some earthiness and mushroom notes also emerge at the end as the wine opens up after time in the glass. This Tempranillo is gentle smooth and layered. It is made in the same style that Tempranillo is made in its native Rioja. This wine will be a great match for Paella or medium strength cheeses. Manchego would be a natural and perfect match.

What I like most about the Sawtooth Tempranillo is that It's the type of wine I could sip all day. It's full favored, with nice complexity but never tires the palate by being over the top as so many other Tempranillos made outside of Spain tend to be in my experience. Another well balanced and food friendly wine from Sawtooth Winery.

Up Next: 2 Cabernet Sauvignons from Sawtooth Winery.

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Sawtooth Winery - 2006 Reserve Chardonnay

Sawtooth Winery makes a broad range of wines. Most are varietally labeled wines, though they do produce a blend called Skyline Red. In addition to dry table wines, Sawtooth also makes several dessert wines. The selection I'm going to look at today is from their reserve line. The 2006 Reserve Chardonnay was aged in small oak barrels for 6 months. Fruit was sourced from Sawtooth Vineyard. Alcohol is 13.5%, which is modest for a New World Chardonnay.  Only 140 cases of this wine were produced. The retail price is $14.99.

Mango, pineapple and vanilla dominate the nose of this Chardonnay. This wine has a rich found mouth feel full of intense fruit flavor. It's big, bright and the fruit just explodes forth from the glass. The oak treatment is evident but never detracts from the fruit. The finish is impressive in length with lingering vanilla and nutmeg spice notes. For a Chardonnay this wine will match up with fairly rich cuisine. Mushroom Ravioli with Pecorino Romano Cream sauce comes to mind, as does Chicken Pot Pie.

Chardonnay is one of the varietals I can personally be the most finicky about. There is so much of it out there in general that it's often hard to weed through and find exciting or even examples. It's even more difficult to find Chardonnay I like for a good price. At $14.99 I think the Sawtooth Reserve Chardonnay is an absolute steal. It explodes with fruit flavor and has enough oak on it to provide a nice level of complexity. As indicated this is a small production, if you like rich, fruit driven Chardonnay, grab this while it's available. This is another reasonably priced, full flavored offering from Sawtooth Winery.

Up Next: A look at Sawtooth Winery's Tempranillo.

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Sawtooth Winery - 2005 Syrah

After spending the last few weeks looking at all California Wines, from Petite Sirah to Charbono it's time to take some time away from California. Sawooth Winery will be my focus for the next few days as I take a look at a handful of their releases. Sawtooth is an Idaho Winery that opened their doors 20 year ago as Pintler Cellars. The lands their vines are planted on now were in winemaker Brad Pintler's family previously as pastures farmed by his father. The Idaho wine industry is growing at a rapid rate, close to 20% each year. As the 2^nd largest producer in the state, Sawtooth is helping to lead the charge. Just over a year ago "Snake River Valley" became Idaho's first AVA, an important designation that an area needs to be on equal footing with established and better-known regions of the world.

The first wine from Sawtooth WineryI'm looking at is a 2005 Syrah. 84% of the wine is varietal withCinsault (7%), Mouvedre (7%) and Grenache (1%) making up the balance. The wine spent approximately 15 months in small oak barrels. 1,600 cases of this Syrah were produced. It's finished with a screw top closure and the suggested retail price is $12.99.

Light and dark plum notes as well as underlying vanilla characteristics make up the inviting nose of this wine. Loads of spice character, including both black and white pepper dominate the palate of this wine along with raspberry notes aplenty. The mid-palate is rich with firm tannins. Cherry and earth notes come out in the finish. This wine is fruit forward with good acidity and a nice balance. It drinks easily on it's own but will pair well with many foods. Just about anything grilled will work very terrifically.

What impressed me most about this wine is how smooth it is out of the bottle. With some time to breathe more complexity emerge to be sure. But from the outset this wine goes down easily with no rough edges to speak of. That said it's structured and complex enough to be interesting. It's closer in style to an old world Syrah. My best is it has at least 5 years of positive evolution ahead of it. For $12.99 though, you're not going to hesitate to crack this one open, whether it's to accompany a burger or to sip on your porch all by itself. Definitely recommended.

Coming Up: A Limited Production Chardonnay From Sawtooth Winery.

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Wine Media Guild of NY - Charbono Tasting

This past Wednesday it was my pleasure to attend a tasting of Charbonos at Felidia in New York hosted by the Wine Media Guild. While Charbono has a long history it currently exists as a cult varietal. No one seems to know exactly how many acres of Charbono are under vine, but everyone agrees it's less than 100.  A large percentage of that 100 is in Napa Valley with the rest spread through other areas of California. Such is the appeal of this grape to believers, that until 1989 there was a Charbono Society, that held annual dinners in the Napa Valley area. My personal introduction to Charbono was an early 1990's visit to Napa Valley and specifically the tasting room of now defunct Bayview Cellars. The luncheon on Wednesday was notable for several reasons. Chief amongst them was the presence of the Charbonos themselves. The 14 wineries that had wines being poured, represent every single current producer of this grape, as well as one who no longer does. In total almost 30 Charbonos were poured.  That in itself is impressive to anyone with a keen interest in wine and a sense of adventure. The presence of several wine makers and folks representing wineries in one form or another was also key to making this a special tasting and luncheon.

Sally Ottoson from Pacific Star Winery was amongst the featured speakers. She's been referred to as the Queen of Charbono. Her winery is located north of Fort Bragg California. In addition to speaking, Sally brought along 6 vintages of her Charbono dating as far back as 1990. Each was interesting in its own way. Her 1997 Venturi Charbono was one of my absolute favorites of the tasting. I found the hallmarks of her Charbono style to be soft, perfumed and well balanced. In many ways her wines put me in the mind of fine Burgundies. This is never a bad thing. In addition to these wines she brought her Charbera. A 50/50 blend of Charbono and Barbera, it was poured with our meal. As with her Charbonos the Charbera was well balanced and food friendly. Sally spoke to us about her Charbono experience and her wine industry history which dates back to the early 70's in Napa Valley. There is no question she's a winemaker passionate about what she does, in general, and specifically driven to help bring Charbono a bit more acclaim.

Coincidentally the other Charbono that really knocked me out the most was the 2005 from On the Edge Winery. I say coincidentally because they were also represented at the luncheon. Paul Smith the owner and Winemaker of On The Edge was one of the other featured speakers. Paul brought 4 vintages of his Charbono with him. His winery is in Calistoga and he sources his Charbono at the Frediani Vineyard. One of the other fascinating aspects of this tasting was the fact that several vineyard sources were represented by more than one winery. Frediani was one of those. Paul Smith's 2005 Charbono was the other favorite I alluded to. His Charbono shows some bright fruit, spiciness and a firm but gentle mouthfeel. While it's drinking well now I imagine it's going to be even better down the road. Paul also spoke for awhile about Charbono, referencing, among other things the DNA research of Dr. Carole Meredith. Once again what came through was not only an intense love of what he does but a passion for Charbono.

Paul handed things over to the next speaker, NFL Legend Dick Vermeil. Dick spoke effusively about his love of wine and the Napa Valley. Specifically he touched on his upbringing in Calistoga and the Italian and French heritage which made wine and the farming of grapes such a part of his upbringing. Listening to Dick speak about wine and the Frediani Vineyard, which he's had various connections with over the years, brought to mind what a uniting force wine can be. Here was a man who made his way in the world via the NFL. Now he's returned to his Calistoga roots to get involved with Paul Smith's On The Edge Winery. His ancestors once owned and farmed the land that One The Edge sources their fruit from.

The final speaker was Geoff Smith the Sun of Oakstone and Obscurity Cellars founders. He represented the winery and read a message his Dad had sent for those of us gathered to taste Charbono. Their winery was represented by 4 Charbono releases including a Rosé.

The other wineries represented included Heitz, Robert Foley, Joseph Laurence, Duxoup, August Briggs, Summers Estate, Turley, Tofanelli, Schrader, Chameleon Cellars, Fortino Vineyard and Boeger Vineayrds.

Turley and Tofanelli were another case of multiple Representatives from 1 vineyard source. The Tofanelli took that battle as far as I was concerned. It was a better balanced, more food friendly wine than either of the Turley's that were poured. The Boeger was fascinating in that it was a port-like blend of Charbono and Refosco which was poured with a cheese course.

This was a tremendous event, highlighting a varietal that more people should be aware of. While it's clear that Charbono can be made in a host of styles, by and large this grape makes wines that you'll want to consume with a meal. In addition to that, Charbono's tend to age well for a long time.

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Concannon Vineyards - 2005 Limited Release Petite Sirah

Fittingly Conncannon Vineyards is the last stop for the 12 Days of Petite Sirah. Back in 1964 they were the first winery to varietally label Petite Sirah. Their history in the California Wine Industry goes back many years before that. Of all the varietals they produce, Petite Sirah remains their calling card. The 2005 Concannon Vineyards Limited Release Petite Sirah is 95% varietal. Merlot (2.5%), Petit Verdot (1%) and mixed reds make up the balance. This wine spent 12 months in French and American oak barrels. 75,000 cases of this wine were produced and it's suggested retail price is $16.

The Concannon Petite Sirah opens with vanilla, berry and cedar notes in the nose. It's a bit tight out of the bottle and decanting is strongly recommended. Once it opens up the Concannon Petite shows itself to be a rich, structured and complex wine for the money. Dark berry shows up throughout the palate along with persistent spice notes. The finish has lots more spice with a touch of earth, mocha and some espresso notes. The oak on this wine is prominent but not overwhelming. Enjoy this wine with grilled meats or dishes featuring mushrooms.

The Concannon Limited release Petite Sirah is impressive within it's price point, Considering how much of this wine is made year after year they do a nice job providing lots of true varietal character. This is perhaps the most commonly available Petite Sirah. It acts as an excellent introduction to the grape for those unfamiliar with Petite Sirah. Tasted side by side with the Bogle Petite I looked at a few days ago it offers a nice contrast in styles from that one in a similar price range. while the retail price for this wine is $16 it can generally be found for closer to $11.

Check out PS I love You, the Advocacy Group dedicated to this great varietal.

And Thus Concludes The 12 Days of Petite Sirah

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Fife Vineyards - 2002 Redhead Vineyards Petite Syrah

At the 12 Days of Petite Sirah comes close to ending I've fixed my gaze at Mendocino County. This time the producer is Fife Vineyards. Founder Dennis has a long and storied history in the California wine industry. A history that dates back to be President of legendary Inglenook Napa Valley. After several other impressive stops along the way he founded his own winery in 1991. Petite Sirah is a varietal he's worked with since 1972 The Fife Vineyards 2002 Redhead Vineyards Petie Syrah is 95% varietal with 5% Carignane blended in.  Production is fairly small at 533 cases. The suggested retail price is $24.

The Fife Petite Syrah opens with blackberries and cherry liqueur in the nose. Out of the bottle this wine is a bit tight and decanting is highly encouraged. Once this wines unwinds and begins to express itself it shows black pepper and vanilla at first followed by an absolutely tremendous expression of cherry that cuts through the mid-palate and lingers until the finish. More pepper, both black an white highlight the finish along with lingering dried fruit notes and a closing chicory note. This wine is rich,  well balanced and built to accompany food. This wine is dry and sonewhat austere, making it a good bet for a wide array of foods.

The Fife Vineyards 2002 Redhead Vineyards Petite Syrah is a rich offering with an elegant and austere dryness to it. With a solid 45 minutes in the decanter this wine is drinking quite well right now.

Check out PS I love You, the Advocacy Group dedicated to this great varietal.

Next: 12 Days of Petite Sirah Concludes, 1 Petite Sirah Left!!!

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Edna Valley Vineyard -2006 Petite Sirah

Having recently looked at a few releases from Edna Valley Vineyard I decided to include them in the 12 Days of Petite Sirah. Their vineyards are classic, cool climate Central Coast locations. While they are a fairly large winery with numerous wines in wide distribution, Petite Sirah isn't one of those. They make a small lots of Petite Sirah most years, with the allocation going to their wine club and direct purchases at their tasting room. This wine retails for $20. Vanilla and dark plum are the most dominant notes in the nose of the Edna Valley Vineyard Petite Sirah. Right from the first sip, rich jammy fruit bursts out of this wine. Nutmeg, vanilla and subtle cedar notes make up the medium length finish. Good acidity is present, keeping this wine in balance. Match it up with big bold foods such as a BBQ Pulled Pork sandwich.

Right now the hallmark of this wine is big bold and jammy fruit, not unlike a Zinfandel in style actually. If you like big, fruity wines that get in your face a little bit then drinking this one young is definitely recommended. If you lay it down for a few years that fruit will settle down a little and earthiness will take hold. Both ways will be enjoyable, it just depends what your preference is. For $20, this is a good value in Petite Sirah.

Check out PS I love You, the Advocacy Group dedicated to this great varietal.

12 Days of Petite Sirah Concludes Later Today

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