Rodney Strong Vineyards - 2006 Reserve Chardonnay

Chardonnay is the most widely planted grape in the world. Partially as a result of its ubiquity it's also made in a wide array of disparate styles. Rodney Strong Vineyards alone makes four different Chardonnays. I recently looked at their Chalk Hill Chardonnay. Today I'm looking at their reserve. The 2006 Russian River Reserve spent 17 months in French oak, 51% of it being new. This selection is available only through their tasting room and website at a price of $40.

Apple, vanilla, spice and toasty notes fill the nose of this Reserve Chardonnay. From the first sip and throughout the palate of this wine brioche, creme brulee and buttery notes are prominent. They're underscored by terrific acidity and a host of mineral notes that carry through a lengthy and impressive finish. Amongst all the other notes and characteristics, apple leads the way in prominence. Every other characteristic is nuanced in comparison.

What I like about best about this Chardonnay is two-fold. The length of the finish leaves a lasting and pleasing impression. Similarly the use of oak is substantial but it's well integrated. This is certainly a bigger, creamier style of Chardonnay than the Chalk Hill. That said it's not so big and buttery as to be monolithic. The acid structure is key to keeping all the components in check and making this a terrifically balanced wine. Another compelling wine from Rodney Strong Vineyards.

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Wine & Fast Food

Please checkout my article about pairing wine with fast food at asylum.com.

Rodney Strong Vineyards - 2005 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

The next wine I'm looking at from Rodney Strong is a Cabernet Sauvignon. As ubiquitous as Cabernet Sauvignon from California can be, it's amazing how many variations there are due to style and region. Amongst their vast offerings Rodney Strong Vineyards makes a host of Cabernets. Some are vineyard designates and some are regional. The one I'm looking at today is appellation specific. That appellation is the Alexander Valley. On the Sonoma side Alexander Valley is the area I personally feel makes the type of Cabernets that can compete with the best of Napa Valley. The 2005 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from Rodney Strong Vineyards was sourced from estate fruit. The suggested retail price for this wine is $25 and it's generally available in the upper teens.

Dark plum, vanilla, nutmeg and gentle cinnamon notes absolutely light up the nose of this wine from the moment you pour it in the glass. The first thing that's apparent when I took an initial sip was that this Cabernet is smooth and accessible out of the bottle. Tons of light and dark cherry notes are prominent throughout the palate of this wine. Spice notes become prominent at the end of the mid-palate and carry through the finish which is slightly above average. A hint of trademark Alexander Valley smokiness also cones out in the finish and is amongst the components that help this wine stand out.

What impresses me most about this wine is its immediate accessibility and appeal from the moment it's poured. Decanting allows it to shine a little more, but this one is essentially ready from the word go. This is a well made Cabernet Sauvignon made to drink young. At a relatively modest price this is a good selection in serious Cabernet to drink over the next few years while the more expensive bottles in your cellar are aging.

Up Next: Rodney Strong Vineyards - 2006 Reserve Russian River Chardonnay

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Rodney Strong Vineyards - 2006 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

The Russian River Valley appellation in Sonoma is one of a handful of areas in California that's well suited to regularly turning out world class Pinot Noir. There are others, of course. Too often however, Pinot Noir from California is too dark, too heavy, too alcoholic and bearing little resemblance to fine Burgundy. At the end of the day most wine makers who take on the challenge of Pinot Noir are using Burgundy as their gold standard. Rodney Strong Vineyards in Sonoma has a large portfolio with a wide array of offerings across various designations, price points and styles. Amongst those are three different Pinot Noir offerings. Their 2006 Russian River Pinot Noir is amongst several wines I'll take a look at over the next few days. This 2006 Pinot Noir from California has 3% Syrah blended in. This is fairly common in California, often to add color. The wine spent 9 months in 100% French Oak. The suggested retail price for this offering is $22 and it can often be found in the mid teens.

Wild strawberry and rhubarb notes are the first thing to emerge from this wine's nose. Taking the first sip I was hit with bing cherry, nutmeg, light vanilla and additional strawberry notes. The wines mid-palate is soft, lush, delicate and gentle. A strong earthiness that features mushroom notes emerges at the end of the mid-palate and carries through the finish. This is accompanied by persistent spice notes, which linger, in an above average finish. The Rodney Strong Russian River Pinot Noir, as with other well made Pinot Noirs will match a wide array of foods. This is a selection to look for in a restaurant when everyone at the table has ordered vastly different dishes.

What I like best about this wine is that it's true to its varietal. Here's a relatively modestly priced Pinot Noir that has the characteristics one would expect from this grape. The oak influence in this wine is well in check, properly enhancing, not detracting from the fruit. Well done by Rodney Strong Vineyards.

Up Next: Rodney Strong Vineyards- Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

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The Wines Of Summer - Half A Case Of White

I drink white wines all year round. In Spring and Summer however my consumption of white wine increases as the weather and foods provide the perfect opportunity to enjoy them. As I did recently with Rosé I've also done with white wine. I tasted through a couple dozen whites from a combination of wineries I was very familiar with to ones I had less experience with. From them I picked 6 wines that I recommend everyone drink this summer. Martin & Weyrich- 2006 Pinot Grigio. Between the industrial stuff emerging in great quantity from Italy and the number of indistinguishable attempts from California and other areas there's a lot of Pinot Grigio to wade through before you find a good one. Thankfully they're out there and this one from Martin & Weyrich in Paso Robles is one of them. The nose is filled with lemon zest and a light vanilla note. Tropical fruit and honeydew fill the palate of this wine. A soft, round mouth-feel is the trademark characteristic to me. The finish features subtle but emerging spice notes that linger. This wine is well balanced with good acid.  It'll pair nicely with a wide array of foods as well as drinking wonderfully on its own. This is the sort of white wine I could sit on my porch and drink all day. It's combination of easy drink-ability combined with more than enough complexity to keep it interesting make this a winner. With new world Pinot Grigio of this quality available it's a wonder people still drink so much of the anonymous tasting stuff like Santa Margherita. The suggested retail price is $15.

Sawtooth Winery- 2005 Viognier. This Viognier from Idaho also has Roussane blended in. Copious quantities of floral and citrus notes fill the nose of this wine. From the very first sip there is a richness in the mouth feel that comes from the addition of the Roussane. Vanilla, lychee fruit and a touch of smokiness emerge at the end of the mid-palate and carry through the finish. This wine sips nicely on its own and will be a good match for grilled chicken, pasta salad and other light foods. The retail price for this wine is $10, a terrific value.

Lucas & Lewellen Vineyards- 2007 Gewurztraminer. Lychee fruit is the first thing that emerges from the nose of this wine. From the moment I took the first sip I was hit with an avalanche of apricots. Lemon notes are prominent throughout the palate along with excellent spice characteristics dancing on the tongue. Of these, nutmeg resonates the most. This Gewurztraminer has a soft, lush mid-palate and an excellent, lengthy finish. This wine will be a great match for herb crusted goat cheese as well as light summer cuisine in general. The suggested retail price of this wine is $16. It's one of the better New World Gewurtztraminer's I've had in awhile and at that price it's a nice value to boot.

Rodney Strong- 2006 Chalk Hill Chardonnay. What would a look at white wines for summer be without at least one Chardonnay. This ubiquitous grape is one I love, but am also very finicky about. So I'm always happy when I find a Chardonnay to recommend. Spice, vanilla, citrus fruit and light toasty notes fill the nose of this Sonoma Chardonnay. Oak is present but thankfully unobtrusive as it allows the fruit to shine through wonderfully. The spice notes continue through an above average finish. Good acidity and balance make this an excellent candidate to pair with many foods. Rich, creamy cheeses, lighter grilled meats and hearty entree salads are a couple of things that come to mind. The suggested retail price for this wine is $20. This is a widely available release and wine-searcher shows it can generally be had for closer to $15.

Wild Horse Vineyards- 2006 Viognier. This is the white varietal I reach for first as an alternative to Chardonnay. They tend to be floral, unctuous and full of tropical fruit flavors. This 2006 example from Wild Horse is no exception to that. A bit of Roussane and Verdelho are blended with the Viognier. Both additions add to this wines richness and complexity. Citrus notes at the front and spice and minerality on the finish are the hallmarks of this wine. It'll serve equally well as a stand alone sipper, with white grilled meats or as a match to spicy Asian cuisine. The suggested retail price on this one is $19. At that price or the couple dollars less you're likely to find it for it's a fun and compelling summer wine.

York Mountain- 2006 Albarino. Over the last few years Albarino seems to be making some inroads in California. Most well known examples, emanate from Spain. As this offering shows though, Albarino can be well made in California too. Grapefruit and honeydew are predominate on the nose. All the way from the first sip through to the finish the trademark is of a very dry wine. This is typical of the varietal. Citrus notes emerge throughout and the finish has some mineral notes as well as a touch of tartness and gentle spice notes. This is an excellent wine to pair with appetizers or to serve to your guests as they enter your home. The retail price for this wine is $18.

Up Next: Four more releases from Rodney Strong Vineyards.

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Wild Horse Winery - 2006 Pinot Noir

Wild Horse Winery in Paso Robles is one of the larger producers in the Central Coast of California. They source their fruit from a diverse array of area vineyards. In my experience they make quite a few wines that are widely available, fairly priced and true to the varietal in question. Today I'm looking at their 2006 Pinot Noir. As with a lot of Pinot Noir fans I'm particularly finicky about this varietal. I was curious to see how Wild Horse was doing with this notoriously difficult grape. The 2006 Wild Horse Winery Pinot Noir is 100% varietal. This wine spent 10 months in French Oak, with 30% of it being new. Just over 56,000 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $25. Wine-Searcher shows it can often be found priced in the upper teens.

This Pinot opens with wild strawberries, bing cherry, vanilla and nutmeg in the nose. While the first sip I took proved this wine to be immediately appealing and accessible, time in the glass or a decanter does wonders to make it even more inviting. The wines palate is filled with light lavender notes and continued strawberry and cherry characteristics. Mushroom, earth, and spice, particularly lingering nutmeg are the starts of this offerings above average finish. This is a well balanced wine with good acidity. It'll match a wide array of foods.

What I like best about this wine is its true varietal character. Oak influence is apparent but never overshadows or diminishes the fruit. Finding well made Pinot Noir around the $20 price point can sometimes be a difficult chore. The 2006 Wild Horse Pinot Noir makes it a little easier.

Up Next: The Wines of Summer: Half a Case of Whites.

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Opolo Vineyards - 2005 Pinot Noir

Opolo Vineyards in Paso Robles is best known for their Zinfandels. I'll look at several of those during Zinfandel Week. Today though I'm going to look at their 2005 Pinot Noir. Paso Robles tends to be a very warm growing region and Pinot Noir is one of the last varietals I normally associate with the area. The Opolo Vineyards 2005 Pinot Noir was produced from Estate Fruit. The wine was aged for 16 months in a combination of French and American oak. Approximately 500 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $32.

Tons of blackberry and earth come through on what is a very big and fairly bright nose. Dark fruit and mocha notes emerge on the first sip and are prominent throughout this wines palate. The finish which is of slightly above average length features vanilla, spice mushroom and toasty oak notes. This is bigger with more upfront fruit than a classically styled Pinot Noir and as such will stand up to richer cuisine. It does have good acidity which helps keep all the bold fruit in check a bit.

If you're looking for a Burgundian styled Pinot Noir this probably isn't the wine you'll want. However if you enjoy rich, new world Pinot Noir with bigger jammy fruit, The Opolo Pinot Noir is a good bet. I found this to be an enjoyable wine to drink, but not exactly a text book Pinot Noir though. Whether you want to seek this offering out or not is going to depend on the style of Pinot you prefer to drink.

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The Wines of Summer - Half a Case of Rosé

Drinking Rosé is one of the things I look forward to when warm weather comes around. Of course it's possible to drink them all year round, but there's something about enjoying a well chilled Rosé outside on a warm day that sets an indelible mood. Thankfully over the last handful of years there are more and more Rosé's available in the US. For years a lot of people seemed to shun them, perhaps confusing them with White Zinfandel. But finally, it seems, most people realize the difference between the nuances and joys of dry Rosé versus the insipidly sweet White Zinfandels. I just tasted through a couple dozen Rosé's in a varying array of styles. Instead of looking at them all I'm going to highlight a handful that stood out to me for varying reasons. These are the Rosé's I recommend everyone drink all summer long.

Brutocao Cellars - 2007 Rosé. This selection is 100% Sangiovese and the suggested retail price is $14. It has a bright nose of strawberry and cherry. The mid-palate has an appealing touch of tartness along with all the berry fruit that brims forth from this one. The finish is long and lingering with a nice spice note to close. This is a nice choice for a picnic or light summer foods in general.

Michael David Winery - Incognito Pink. This wine is a blend of 62% Old Vine Cinsault, 20% Grenache and 18% Mouvedre. The suggested retail price of this wine is $14. This one opens with an immense nose absolutely bursting with watermelon notes. Tangerine is more subtle but also present. The mid-plate is rich, mouth-filling and full of bright fruit. The finish is fairly lengthy and features a copious amount of white pepper. Incognito Pink offers good complexity in its price-point.

Clos La Chance - 2007 Pink Throated Brilliant Rosé. This Rosé from Clos La Chance is a blend of 71% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 9% Pinot Noir. The suggested retail price is $14. The nose is incredibly fresh, bright and inviting. Just taking a whiff, with its heady rhubarb notes leaping out, brings summer instantly to mind. This offering really brings to mind the French Rosé's that set the benchmark for the category. A balance of fruit, minerality and acidity lead to a terrific wine. The finish is refreshing, beckoning the drinker back for sip after sip. Spice notes linger on the finish, well after your last taste.

Mil Piedras - 2007 Brut Nature Rosé. This Argentine release is equal parts Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. 800 Cases were produced and this wine sells for around $10. The nose of the lone non-California Rosé I'm looking at is full of wild raspberry notes. Hints of citrus are evident throughout the palate along with an abundance of bright and dark berry fruit notes. A slight touch of tartness and tingly white pepper are the standout highlights on the finish.

Swanson Vineyards- 2007 Rosato. The Swasnon Rosé is made from 100% Syrah and the suggested retail price is $21. Swanson has been making a Rosé since well before it started to become fashionable in California. This is in fact one of the wines that made me a Rosé drinker to begin with. The 2007 Rosato adds a touch of citrus to the red, mouth-filling fruit that's the hallmark of this wine each vintage. This is an excellent example of a dry New World Rosé. Whether you welcome guests with this wine as they enter your home, you pair it with the light foods of summer or you simply sip it, the Swanson Rosato is refreshing and consistent.

Mumm Napa - Blanc De Noirs. The Blanc De Noirs is a blend of 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay. The suggested retail price for this sparkler is $19. It seems to me that Sparkling Wine in this country is a bit under-enjoyed. People seem to relegate it to special occasions and celebrations. In truth they are often very versatile with a varying array of cuisine, make excellent aperitif or welcome wines and are simply a blast to drink. Wonderful black cherry come out in the nose and carries through the palate of this wine. The mid-palate itself features a ton of biscuit and scone notes. Mineral notes which are hinted at early on, emerge more prominently in the finish along with spice and lingering cherry flavors.

Although they're made in varying styles from different grapes the wines above have a lot in common. They're all well made, fun to drink, refreshing and speak of summer.

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Adelsheim Vineyard - 2006 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is unquestionably the varietal that the Willamette Valley in Oregon is best known for. The relatively cool region approximates Burgundy and makes it possible for vintners to do impressive things with this famously finicky grape. Adelsheim Vineyard makes several Pinot Noirs. The one I'm looking at today is their most widely available Pinot Noir offering. I'd venture to guess it's also the bottling they're best known for. The 2006 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir from Adelsheim Vineyard was produced from 75% Estate Fruit. The other 25% was from 9 other vineyards in the Willamette Valley. 24% of the barrels used were new with the remainder varying in age from one to three years old. Just under 16,000 cases of this Pinot Noir were produced and the suggested retail price is $31. A quick look at wine-searcher shows it can generally be located for closer to $25.

Fresh wild strawberries, rhubarb and light vanilla notes fill the nose of this offering. Earthiness, nutmeg spice and more prominent vanilla fill the mid-palate. Bing cherry and strawberry star throughout. As it should be, the fruit is the feature attraction here. Oak is present but integrated and well in check as part of an overall package, not a distraction. The finish is long, layered, persistent and full of earth, mushroom and nutmeg notes. This wine is impeccably balanced with good acidity. The 2006 Adelsheim Willamette Valley Pinot Noir will be and excellent match for a varying array of foods. A terrific choice when everyone at dinner has very different meals in front of them.

What I like best about this selection is that it's marvelously typical of the kind of well crafted, varietally correct and pure Pinot Noir often emerging from the Willamette Valley. Considering it's widely available in the mid $20's this is an excellent deal on a lovely wine.

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Adelsheim Vineyard - 2006 Willamette Valley Pinot Gris

The Willamette Valley in Oregon has been getting more and more recognition over the last few years for the wines they make. As a cooler climate than most of the regions in California they have an edge from nature when growing certain grape varietals. I'll examine two releases from Adelsheim Vineyard over the next couple of days. Somewhat appropriately I'll look at releases that represent the 2 varietals that seem to shine the most up in Oregon's Willamette Valley. First up I'll look at their Willamette Valley Pinot Gris. This wine is part of their Willamette Valley Series. They also have single vineyard and reserve offerings as well as a line of what they've termed wacky wines. The 2006 Adelsheim Pinot Gris had minimal oak influence. 20% of the wine underwent malolactic fermentation. More than half of the fruit for this offering was sourced in Adelsheim's own Estate vineyards. Approximately 15,500 cases were produced and the suggested retail price is $19.

Honey Dew Melon, peach and pear are the most prominent characteristics to emerge from the nose of this wine. This Pinot Gris is soft, round and lush throughout the palate with no rough edges to speak of. It's also layered, elegant and complex. The finish is long, spicy and persistent with white pepper notes lingering against the back of the throat for a nice long while. This wine will work incredibly well as an aperitif or welcome wine at your next event. It'll also pair nicely with light foods, creamy cheeses or a fresh summer entrée salad.

What I like best about the Adelsheim Willamette Valley Pinot Gris is that its overriding characteristic is fresh, unadulterated fruit. This is a clean crisp wine that speaks of its fruit and place not of manipulation.

While the suggested retail price for this wine is $19, wine-searcher shows that it can commonly be found for a couple of dollars less. In either case, this is terrific wine and an excellent value.

Up Next: Adlesheim Vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

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Ladera Vineyards - 2004 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

The last wine I'm looking at from Ladera at this time is also a single vineyard offering. It's noteworthy that in addition to the Cabernets I've covered they make several other varietals. Considering the quality of these wines, the others are likely worth drinking as well. The 2004 Ladera Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon is 100% varietal and all from the same vineyard. 50% of the wine was aged in new French oak for 21 months. The remainder spent time in one, two or three year old French oak barrels. 3,000 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $70.

This is a wine with a tremendously dark hue to it. Of the 3 Ladera the Howell Mountain has the most floral nose. Violet notes lead the way, accompanied by berries and cedar. From the first taste, the Howell Mountain Cabernet is chock full of dark, brooding fruit. Throughout the wines palate chocolate notes abound. Again those notes are more prominent than in the other Cabernets from Ladera. Earthiness in the long, luxurious finish is subtle but emerges nicely as the wine opens up along with spice notes. This wine has terrific acidity and a big, tight tannic structure. More so than the other Ladera Cabernets this one really needs to breathe. Match it up with a big, bold meal if you're drinking it now.

The Ladera Howell Mountain Cabernet is a big, hefty, chewy wine. It's a delicious wine, but time in the bottle will serve it well. My recommendation would be to put a couple of these away and forget about them for 5 years or so and then enjoy for quite a few years after that. I liked each of the Ladrea wines I tasted a lot for different reasons. The Howell Mountain is likely the most age worthy. As with the other 2 it over delivers in it's price point.

Up Next: A couple of wines from Oregon's Adelsheim Vineyard.

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Ladera- 2004 Lone Canyon Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon

Ladera Vineyards makes two single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons in addition to the Napa Valley that I looked at already. Those three wines combined make up close to 90% of their total production. So clearly they're committed to Cabernet Sauvignon, which is often referred to as the King of Napa. The first of the two single vineyards I'm looking at is Lone Canyon Vineyard. This is a site of close to 500 acres, 75 of them under vine. Lone Canyon is a mountain location, which borders Mount Veeder. The Ladera 2004 Lone Canyon Vineyard Cabernet is 100% sourced from this single vineyard. The wine was aged for 22 months in 73% new French oak. 1,900 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $65.

Dark berry and a hint of eucalyptus are the first notes that emerge from this wines nose. Even with a year more bottle age than the Napa Valley Cabernet this selection is a bit reticent at first. Decanting for at least an hour is highly recommended. Once it opens up nutmeg, mocha notes and an absolute avalanche of berry fruit flavors are the story of this wines palate through to the tremendous earthy finish. This Cabernet will surely stand up to your finest steak. However, it's also restrained and lovely enough to drink well on it's own.

For me, single vineyard wines epitomize the concept of capturing a sense of place. They can genuinely reflect what happened in that vineyard in a given year.

What I like most about this wine is the absolute purity of fruit and excellent spice component running through it from beginning to end. There is something particularly clean and natural tasting about this offering. This is an intense, persistent, multi-layered and impeccably balanced expression of Cabernet Sauvignon.

While this wine is drinking beautifully now, I'd expect it to age gracefully for the better part of a decade, at minimum. For $65 this isn't going to be a wine most people drink with Pizza on a Tuesday night. That said it's an excellent choice to tuck away for a special occasion. Furthermore it's important to note that this wine is an excellent value in its price point. There's no shortage of Napa Cabernets in this price range, too few of them are in the Lone Canyon's class.

Up Next: Ladera's Howell Mountain Cabernet.

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Ladera Vineyards - 2005 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the varietals that can seem ubiquitous in California. Especially in Napa, it seems, everyone has at least one Cabernet Sauvignon on their tasting list when you visit a winery. Part of this is of course because Cabernet Sauvignon generally does very well in Napa Valley. But in some cases Wineries seem to produce Cabernet Sauvignon because they feel compelled to do so to keep up with the Joneses so to speak. More often though in Napa, Cabernet Sauvignon is the main focus of quite a few Wineries. Ladera Vineyards is one such winery. They're a family winery that pays careful attention to every step of the process. They make a couple of other varietals, but Cabernet is their focus. This week I'll look at three distinct Cabernet Sauvignons in their portfolio. The first one up is a blend of Cabernets from each of their Estate Vineyards. The Ladera Vineyards 2005 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is a blend of Estate fruit from Lone Canyon Vineyard and Howell Mountain. 4% Petit Verdot was blended in. The wine spent 17 months in 47% new French oak barrels with the balance in used French Oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is $39.

Berry, cedar and vanilla notes lead a tremendously inviting nose. The first sip brings out casis, blackberry and spice notes. Rich, deep mountain fruit is the hallmark of this wine and it shines throughout the palate. The mid-palate is full bodied, lush and mouth filling. This Cabernets finish has a distinct earthiness that will emerge more as the wine evolves and ages. Significant white pepper and nutmeg spice dance along the tongue and back of the throat as well. This is an elegant example of Napa Valley Cabernet.

What I liked best about this particular Cabernet Sauvignon is how inviting and open it was immediately out of the bottle. Of course decanting helps it open up and achieve an increased level of accessibility and charm, but it shines from the get go. This is a well-balanced wine that features bright fruit, good acidity and a firm tannic structure. It's drinking well now, should evolve for 5 or 6 years and drink nicely for another handful of years after that.

When you get to the upper thirties in Napa Valley Cabernet you have quite a few choices. The Ladera Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon outclasses its price point. It easily outshines quite a few wines that have more famous names in this price range.

Up Next: Ladera Vineyards - Lone Canyon Vineyard Cabernet

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Madeira Tasting - Park Avenue Summer

On Tuesday I had the opportunity to attend a Madeira Tasting in NYC. Over 50 wines from approximately half a dozen Madeira producers were represented. This is a fascinating and informative way to taste one category of wine side by side. While the history of Madeira is a long one, it doesn't get as much attention from American Consumers and writers as Port often does. Hopefully with time that will change. Madeira can be just as interesting, complex and age worthy as port. Also like Port, Madeira can be made in a number of varying styles. Each producer that was represented was pouring a broad selection of Madeira. Of the producers present several stood out for me. However none more so than Broadbent. From their Rainwater which is a Madeira meant to be consumed young through a 10 year old Malmsey and all the way to their oldest and most layered selections, The Broadbent wines were impressive across the board. A house style was evident that led me from wine to wine like a connective taste tissue. However each wine was distinctive in it's own way. The 5 year old reserve priced in the mid $20's struck me as the top overall bargain. However I enjoyed each one and hope to take a closer look at a couple of them in the future.

The other wine that most impressed me was the Blandy's Terrantez 1976. Among other qualities this wine had an excellent finish that seemed to go on forever. Conversely their 1977 was one of my least favorites of the day. The Barbeito Malvasia 30 year old Special Lot Madeira was another standout for me.

At the end of the day, having tasted over 50 wines in varying styles and price ranges from $15 to $500 there is one absolute. There is plenty of excellent and diverse Madeira available. Regardless of your level of drinking sophistication, or budget, you should have no problem finding one to enjoy.

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Xumek - 2005 Malbec

A lot of terrific wine made from various varietals is coming out of Argentina. Malbec, however, is the varietal that Argentina is best known for. In addition to it being a large part of their production, they simply make more great Malbec than any other country. The second wine I'm looking at from Xumek is a Malbec. The 2005 Xumek Malbec is 100% varietal and all Estate Fruit. 2,500 cases were produced. It's finished with a natural cork closure. While the suggested retail price is in the upper teens this wine can be purchased for closer to $12.

The Xumek Malbec has a beautiful deep purple hue. The nose of this Malbec leads with plum, berry, vanilla and toasty oak notes. Mocha notes come out on the entry point, giving way to berry and white pepper spice in the mid-palate. The finish has dark chocolate and blackberry fruit notes along with pepper that tingles the back of the throat a good long while. This wine is well balanced with good acidity and will be versatile at the table.

This offering is more austere and dry than textbook Malbecs. The Xumek appears built to last longer and age more gracefully than many it's it's price category. This is smoother than the average Malbec and a step up in elegance and subtle layering. Well worth it's modest price tag.

Imported by H & S Specialty Imports.

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Xumek - 2007 Syrah

Readers of this blog will note that I have an affinity for South American Wines. I'm particularly fascinated by those coming out of Argentina. The good ones find a crossroads between quality and value that rivals just about any wine region in the world. I'm going to look at two releases from Xumek.  Their focus is on estate grown, single vineyard wines with limited production. The first offering I'll examine is their Syrah. Famed winemaker Michael Rolland is involved with Xumek as an external consultant. The 2007 Xumek Syrah is 100% varietal and all Estate grown fruit. Production is limited to 2,500 cases and the suggested retail price is $18. Looking at wine-searcher though it can be found for $15.

The nose of the Xumek Syrah abounds in blackberry, vanilla and cedar notes. The first sip reveals rich, decadent chocolate covered blackberry flavors. White pepper, nutmeg, cloves and the like fill the mid-palate of this wine along with deep dark berry fruit. The finish brings out earthiness and smoke in abundance along with additional mocha notes.

Decanting this wine for an hour is recommended. The time allows this Syrah to open up wide and achieve an additional level of expression. The Xumek Syrah has a good tannic structure and well integrated oak. This wine should evolve for 3 to 5 years and drink well for a couple more after that. A teriffic expression of Syrah well worth it's price.

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Up Next: Xumek Malbec.

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Thornton Winery - 2005 Amador County Zinfandel

In addition the the grapes Thornton Winery farms themselves they source fruit from other areas of California. One of those areas is Amador County. Located in the Sierra Foothills, Amador County is best known for Zinfandel. Many of the Zinfandel vines planted in Amador County are amongst the oldest in California. While the term "Old Vines" is often used loosely throughout California the Zinfandels emerging from Amador County, generally are truly Old Vine. The last wine I'll be looking at this week from Thornton Winery is in fact an Amador Zinfandel. The Thornton Winery 2005 Amador County OVOC (Old Vine, Old Clone) Zinfandel was produced from vines over 100 years old. This Zinfandel was aged for 22 months in 45% new French Oak, with the remainder in 2 year old American Oak. Production was limited to 369 Cases, making this a winery direct exclusive. The price of this wine is $44.

This Zinfandel's nose opens with bright berry fruit and nutmeg spice on the nose. The first sip reveals that this zinfandel is tart out of the bottle and requires some time to open up and express itself. After decanting this wine reveals a lot of dark berry fruit and continued spice notes. The mid-palate brings out dust and brambly earth notes that carry through the long and persistent finish which also includes mocha, white pepper and additional berry. This is a substantial wine and will best be when paired with hearty foods that match it's robust flavor profile.

This Thornton offering is a classically styled wine made far more in the style of traditional Zinfandels than some of the super ripe, overly jammy wines out there. That said this wine has plenty of bright, open, upfront fruit, however it never comes close to being over the top. This is a well balanced wine with good acidity, and a firm tannic structure. This Zinfandel will evolve over the next 5 or 6 years and drink well for the better part of a decade. This IS your Grandpa's Zinfandel!

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Thornton Winery - 2005 Temecula Valley Syrah

Temecula has officially been a designated viticultural area since 1984. For most of those years Thornton Winery has been producing wine there. In addition to the 20 acres Thornton Winery itself sits on they also source some grapes from other specific parcels throughout California. The second wine from Thornton I'm looking at is a Syrah. The Thornton Winery Temecula Valley Syrah has a suggested retail price of $24.  As with the Merlot, the alcohol level is under 14%, modest for California.

This Syrah opens with a big nose of bright berry fruit. Rhubarb, black cherry, assorted dark berry fruits and black pepper emerge immediately upon tasting this wine and carry well through the mid-palate. Well integrated oak presents itself in the form of cedar and vanilla notes throughout the palate of the wine. The finish features mocha, earth, white pepper, nutmeg and a light chicory note. The Thornton Syrah will be an excellent match for grilled meats.

What stood out to me about this wine is that it features upfront fruit that references an Australian Shiraz but also maintains the balance, earthiness and finesse of some fine Rhone offerings.

While this release is drinking tremendously well now, it's likely to at least hold where it is for several years. This is an excellent Syrah that offers good value in its price category.

Up Next: An Amador County Zinfandel from Thornton Winery.

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Thornton Winery - 2005 Temecula Valley Merlot

Temecula Valley is another of the California Wine Regions that's been coming on strong over the last few years. More and more consumers are aware of its existence and the fact that quality wine is emerging from this burgeoning region. Over the next few days I'll look at three releases from Temecula's Thornton Winery. First founded in 1988, Thornton Winery is one of the Pioneers of high quality Temecula Valley Wine. Their initial focus was Sparkling Wine. Five years later they introduced varietal wines. Between Sparkling and Still wines they currently produce 15,000 cases annually.

Today I'm looking at the Thornton Winery 2005 Temecula Valley Merlot. This wine has a suggested retail price of $27. Alcohol is a modest 13.9%

The nose of this Merlot presents dark, juicy plum and dust. The first sips through to the mid-palate are full of black cherry fruit, spicy white pepper and subtle mocha notes. Dust and white pepper continue through to the finish, joined by brambly earth, dried cherry fruit and nutmeg spice. The wine will be an excellent match for braised short ribs, lasagna or grilled marinated flank steak.

Most impressive to me about the Thornton Merlot is the excellent varietal character it displays. This is a relatively austere red wine, which leans towards the dark fruits that are often trademarks of Merlot made in a more classic European style as this one is. This wine was a little tight and tart out of the bottle so decanting for about an hour is recommended. This Temecula Valley Merlot has present but not overwhelming oak. A firm tannic structure suggests this wine will evolve nicely for at least 2-3 years and drink well for a couple of years after that.

A well made Merlot that's a fine example of this great varietal This is worth seeking out.

Up Next: Thornton Winery- Syrah

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Etko Wines - Commandaria - St Nicholas

The second dessert wine from Etko Wines I'm looking at is the Commandaria St. Nicholas. As with any wine region Commandaria offers a variety of dessert wines that have been aged and treated differently. Thus there is something to try a different levels of cost with varying complexity and the like. The Etko Wines Commandaria St. Nicholas is a blend of 60% Xynisteri and 40% Mavro. The suggested retail price for this wine is $18. It can be found for a couple dollars less.

The nose of the St. Nicholas is full of fresh apricot and peach with an undercurrent of maple syrup, caramel and sweet burn sugar. From the very first sip through the mid palate, tons and tons of fig notes permeate this wine. Again their accompanied by caramel flavors that ride just underneath that in an almost sly manner. The Finish of this wine continues the fig flavors accompanied by ginger spice, light espresso bean notes and a slight bit of mocha. This wine will be an excellent match for dried fruit, nuts and fairly stinky cheeses.

Compared to the Centurion the St. Nicholas features much fresher fruit flavors. The St. Nicholas offers nice complexity in it's price category. This is a wine to consider as an alternative to Tawny Ports. For the cost it delivers a lot of favor, sweetness and pleasure. It's not overly stick, sweet or cloying though. For the price the Etko Wines Commandaria St. Nicholas is a bargain. If you drink dessert wines, look out for this one. If you don't drink dessert wines regularly this one comes in at a price more than reasonable enough to experiment with. Check it out.

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