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Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

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V-Twin Vineyards - 2005 Poker Run Zinfandel

V-Twin Vineyards is Dry Creek Valley based winery that sources fruit from aPRZnumber of locations throughout California to make their wines. In addition to Wine, founders Scott Del Fava and his wife are also major motorcycle enthusiasts. Their future plans for a tasting room includes finding a location where both passions can co-exist for them and their customers. Their website is the first step in that direction with a member photo gallery. I’ll be looking at several of their releases this week, the first is a Zinfandel. The 2005 V-Twin Vineyards Poker Run Zinfandel was produced from old vine fruit sourced in Alexander Valley. This offering is a blend of Zinfandel (75%), Petite Sirah (15%), Carignan (5%) and Syrah (5%). Oak aging was accomplished over 14 months in a combination of barrel types. 400 cases of this vintage were produced and the suggested retail price is $24.

One of the things that attracts me to Zinfandel is that it can and is made in a very wide variety of styles. As long as they’re well made I can appreciate many of those variations. Speaking of style it’s apparent from the word go that the Poker Run Zin is of the Jammy variety. A huge potpourri of big, bright berry fruit aromas fills the nose of this Zinfandel. Fresh cherries dipped in sweet chocolate are omnipresent throughout the palate of this Zin along darker fruit such as plum and blackberry, not to mention a host of spice notes. Sour cherry, earth, black pepper and hints of vanilla are all part of the remarkably smooth and lingering finish of this wine.

What I like most about this offering is that it’s a classic example of Alexander Valley Zinfandel. It reminds me in some ways of Alexander Valley Vineyards SinZin in style and level of decadence. If you like your Zins big but still balanced, Poker Run from V-Twin Vineyards might just be the wine for you.

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Trapiche - NV Extra Brut Sparkling Wine

NV BrutWhen most people think of Sparkling wine, Champagne comes to mind. In truth Champagne represents a small percentage of the sparkling wines out there. As time goes on there are more and more options as additional wineries and regions start experimenting with different styles of Sparkling wines. And of course many counties have long had their own traditions when it comes to them. Today I’ll look at an Argentine example from Trapiche. The Trapiche Sparkling wine is a non-vintage selection. This offering is a blend of Chardonnay (70%), Semillon (20%), and Malbec (10%). The “Charmat Lungo” method, widely employed for producing sparkling wine in Italy was used.  This wine most often sells for just under $15.

Sparkling wine is a little like Petite Sirah for me. No they don’t have a thing in common. What I mean is that whenever I have an enjoyable example of either it occurs to me that I don’t drink enough of either Petite Sirah or Sparkling Wine.  The Non-vintage Extra Brut from Trapiche has lovely pure yellow hue. Hints of mango emerge in the nose and also continue through the palate which features a serious wallop of pineapple. An edge of creaminess emerges mid-palate and continues forth joined by copious golden delicious apple notes. Towards the back of the palate ginger comes out in force and carries through the finish which has lots of flaky biscuit and yeast elements.

I was impressed with the quality of this wine for the money. Most impressive was the nice finish which lingered. There are hints of sweetness here and there but this is a dry wine. A lot of folks save Sparkling Wine for special occasions. And that’s fine in some ways. But when you can get a tasty and well made sparkler from Argentina for such a reasonable price why wait for a special occasion? Check this wine out and tell me if you agree.  As with the Torrontes, if you like this wine you may want to hit up the folks at Trapiche on their Facebook page.

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Trapiche - 2008 Torrontes

When it comes to white varietals from Argentina, Torrontes is poised to be the star of theTorrontes_jpg show. It’s emerging here but not quite on the tip of every wine drinkers tongue yet. The question isn’t if Torrontes is going to break out and be everywhere, it’s when. This is an excellent varietal which most often produces floral wines with diverse food pairing possibilities. Today I’m going to look at a current release from Trapiche. If you shop for Argentine wines the name Trapiche is likely familiar; they make a wide range of offerings in several tiers. The Torrontes I’m examining today is from their varietals tier. These wines are under $15 and aimed at everyday affordability and enjoyment. The Trapiche 2008 Torrontes is made from fruit sourced in the Mendoza region of Argentina. This offering is 100% Torrontes. This selection can often be found on store shelves for less than $10.

The light yellow hue of this wine is offset by a tinge of green. Hazelnut, vanilla, lemon zest and a touch of Valencia Orange are part of the lovely and evocative nose. Yellow peach and continued underlying citrus characteristics are present through the palate. Toasted nut, white pepper and additional vanilla emerge in the nice finish. This Torrontes has excellent acidity. Trapiche offers a wine that will pair well with a variety of  lighter cuisine. However I really like to use is as a welcome wine when guests first come over.

As I mentioned above Torrontes is primed to become a bigger and bigger player on US shelves in the upcoming years. Right now it’s still under many peoples radar though. That gives you a great opportunity to surprise your friends with something unique they may have not tasted before. While you’re making friends, if you like this wine you may want to hit up the folks at Trapiche who have setup a Facebook page to connect with fans.

Bottom line for me is that this wine is very tasty and well priced. A safe summer bet and one you can bust open no matter how many people you have over.

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Clean Slate - 2008 Riesling

cleanslateI really enjoy Riesling, but over the years I've had a hard time finding well priced examples that impress on any level. Too often the offerings on US shelves at an everyday drinking price-point are one dimensional and uninteresting at best. In many casing that single dimension is sweetness. While I enjoy this in a dessert wine, it's not something I generally look for in table wines. The 2008 Clean Slate Riesling is from Mosel Germany. The fruit was sourced from a number of vineyards throughout different sections of the Mosel. This wine most often sells for right around $10.

Stone fruit and citrus highlight the aromatic nose of this wine. Throughout the palate white peach notes are prominent and accompanied by underlying touches of lemon zest, tangerine and spice. Terrific acidity, mineral, flint and continued spice are all part of a nice finish. This wine is tasty on its own but it's really tailor made to pair with food. While Thai cuisine might be the obvious choice, I found it to be an excellent match with a range of Indian dishes I was sampling along with it.

What stands out most to me in this wine is the acidity. It provides a great backbone and gives it the structure to stand up to a variety of foods. This is also a refreshing wine that will keep you coming back to the glass for additional sips. A far cry from the host of cloying and borderline syrupy selections that have often clogged up store shelves over the years. As an everyday selection this provides nice varietal character and represents a solid value.

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Titus Vineyards - 2006 Cabernet Franc

A couple of weeks ago when I was out in Napa Valley I had the opportunity to visit Titus Vineyards. They're right on Silverado Trail yet if you titus francblink there's a good chance you'll miss them, which I almost did. Generally they're not open for public tastings. On this particular occasion they were hosting a blind tasting of Cabernet Sauvignon. Many other folks in the local wine community stopped by with a bottle of wine. Each bottle was in a brown paper bag and had a number assigned. I didn't count exactly how many there where, or taste every one, but I think it was in the neighborhood of 50 Cabs. It was a fun time and it was nice to say hi to the Titus brothers, who are responsible from some very tasty wines. It put me in the mood to taste and report on more of their selections. Today I'll look at their current release of Cabernet Franc. The Titus Vineyards 2006 Cabernet Franc has Cabernet Sauvignon (11%), Malbec (10%), and Merlot (4%) blended in. Barrel aging was accomplished over 20 months in all French oak; 30% were new. 385 cases of this selection were produced. The suggested retail price for this wine is $36.

I've thoroughly enjoyed and been impressed by each release I've had from Titus Vineyards. If you add that together with the fact that Cabernet Franc is a varietal I particularly enjoy, you can imagine I was excited to taste this wine. Leather, black fruit and an undercurrent of lavender are the most obvious aromas that emerge from this wine. Dark cherry notes are gloriously prominent and downright exuberant throughout the palate of this Franc. Dark chocolate is also present and echoes throughout this wine from start to finish in varying degrees, reaching a crescendo towards the back of the palate as it leads into the finish. Cloves, mineral and earth are joined by hints of tobacco and black tea on an excellent finish that is marked by it's length and lingering remnants of excellent acidity which is present throughout. This wine will pair well with roast meats, mushroom based dishes and other flavorful foods.

I went back to this wine after it had been open for 24 hours and it had continued to evolve and improve. If you store this wine properly it's going to get better in the bottle for the next 5 or so years and drink well for another 5 after that. However, if you're impatient and plan to drink this Cabernet Franc soon, do yourself a favor and decant it for at least an hour. This wine continues the streak of impressive offerings from Titus Vineyards. The hallmark for me has been a combination of brash and exuberant wines loaded with fruit, that are balanced with excellent structure, firm acidity and the ability to age. Another common trait amongst the Titus wines is that they over-deliver on their price points. If I had paid $55 0r $60 for this wine, it would have still been a fair value. At $36 it's a tremendous one.

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Ravenswood - 2006 Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel

Lodi-zinRavenswood has a long history with Zinfandel. It’s how Joel Peterson made his bones; and while they make many other wines now, Zinfandel is still very much their core. Vineyard Designates, County Series wines, state wide cuvee’s and more make up the array of Zinfandel offerings that Ravenswood produces annually. Each series or tier has different intents and aims in mind. The Vineyard Designated wines for instance are aimed at more seasoned wine drinkers who know Zinfandel pretty well and already understand to some degree, or want to experience that site to site diversity. Today I’ll look at one of the County Series wines. This tier is aimed at the everyday consumer who wants a glass of wine for dinner but needs to keep the cost modest. Wines in this series are often also excellent choices to bring to a large gathering. The 2006 Ravenswood Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel has Petite Sirah (21%) and Carignane (1%) blended in. This selection spent 18 months in 24-30% new French oak barrels. 84,000 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $12.

Black and red raspberry lead the nose of this Old Vine Zinfandel along with a nice helping of vanilla. The palate is loaded with dark, brooding fruit throughout. There are good elements of jam and hints of licorice as well. Tingly, lingering pepper spice emerges on the finish as well as chocolate notes. The Petite Sirah adds nice backbone to this wine and lends to its firm structure which is complemented by sufficient acidity.

This wine fulfills its intent. With 84,000 cases and a $12 price-point you want an offering that tastes like Zinfandel with Lodi characteristics. This wine achieves that and is a solid entry in the category of wines affordable enough for most to drink everyday. Look around and you’ll find it for closer to $9.

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Moon Mountain Vineyard - 2000 Estate Merlot

I remember the first time I visited Moon Mountain Vineyard in Sonoma prettyMMmerlot distinctly. It was November of 1998; and it was still called Carmenet Winery. I went with my friend Dave with whom I write the website Drink Dry Creek. We were both impressed with the wines and the facility. It became somewhat of a regular stop for me. Their benchmark wine at the time was their Meritage; a Bordeaux style blend. Today it’s labeled as a Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. I believe the intent is the same. In any case they make small quantities of the components that made up the blend. Today I’ll look at such a release from the 2000 Vintage. The 2000 Moon Mountain Vineyard Merlot was produced from fruit in the Feather Block of their Estate Vineyard. This sits on the southwest side of Mount Veeder at a 1,700 foot elevation. The offering is 100% Merlot. Oak aging was accomplished over 21 months in French Barrels. A mere 196 cases of this offering were produced. At release this wine sold for approximately $30.

I recall tucking this Merlot away about 5 years ago and thinking it would have a really positive evolution with some time in the bottle. So when I popped the cork, more than anything, I was curious if it turned out that way or not. The nose of this Merlot was filled with violets, blackberries and subtle plum notes. The palate still had quite a bit of fruit, but it was softer, and more restrained than it had been on release; becoming lush and smooth. Touches of pencil lead emerged, leading to a finish that was loaded with earth, mineral notes, black tea and dusty cocoa. This wine still had good structure and fine acidity.

This is a beautiful expression of well made Merlot produced from Mountain fruit. I was glad to see that time in the bottle served it well. Of course now I wish I had a case of it tucked away, but alas I do not.

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Lucas & Lewellen Vineyards - "Silver King" Port

ll-portI drink dessert wine pretty regularly. Most often it's Tawny or Late Bottled Port from Portugal. After that I'm always curious to taste the different styles of Ports and Dessert wines being made in California. When it comes to the Golden State I most often think of Late Harvest Zinfandel. That style seems to be the most ubiquitous expression in California; not surprising when you consider how much Zin there is. The last few years though I've run across a solid handful of folks making Dessert Wine or Port with Merlot. I was a bit dubious at first, but then I had the chance to taste a couple and I found there are some interesting offerings out there. Today I'll look at one from Lucas & Lewellen. The Lucas & Lewellen "Silver King" Port is produced using Merlot grapes sourced at their Los Alamos Vineyards. To that juice, neutral grape spirits are added. 312 cases of this wine were produced. It's available in 375 ml bottles for $20.

As soon as I poured this wine my senses were engulfed with deep, dark, cherry pie aromas. Chocolate dipped fruitcake notes were plentiful throughout the palate along with bountiful black cherry characteristics that kept resonating. The finish of this Port had a touch of perceptible heat. In this particular case it worked really well and provided hints of Cherry Liqueur. That finish coated the back of my throat with a thick honey-like consistency in it's mouth-feel. This wine could easily have been dessert on its own. I paired it with dark chocolate covered biscotti and found that to be a ridiculously delicious match.

What I like best about this particular port is that it's unique. While the number of dessert wines made from Merlot is increasing it's still a small segment of the whole. The fact that it stands out from the pack is reason enough to seek it out so you can have a different experience. The main reason though is that it's well made and delicious.

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Martin Ray Winery - 2005 Synthesis Cabernet Sauvignon

syntA winery the size of Martin Ray makes many releases with large, sometimes huge case productions. So it's always interesting and informative to also look at what they're doing on a smaller scale. Today I'll look at such a selection from them. The Martin Ray 2005 Synthesis Cabernet Sauvignon is made from fruit sourced in three locations. The vast majority of the fruit is from Napa Valley; 67% from Diamond Mountain and 23% from Stags Leap District. The remaining 10% was sourced in the Sonoma Mountain Appellation. This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Oak aging was accomplished with 34 months in French barrels. A tiny 103 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $75.

It's important to mention immediately that this wine really needs to be decanted if you're going to drink it any time soon. An hour really helps, two hours would be even better. Once you've given it that time to aerate, this Cabernet is going to really be ready to perform. The nose is very expressive and filled with aromas of ripe summer berries, underscored by hints of vanilla. The Diamond Mountain fruit which represents more than two thirds of this cuvée really shines through with purity and intensity of flavor through the palate. Immense layers of dark berry, plum and bakers chocolate notes are accompanied by flourishes of black olive. Copious earth, black tea, mineral notes and black pepper emerge in a very nice and lingering finish. This wine has firm tannins that soften as the wine evolves, and solid acidity.

By combining fruit from three distinct parts of Napa and Sonoma Martin Ray has created a Cabernet blend with diverse elements that come together nicely as one. While this wine is delicuous now I expect it to evolve over the next 8 or so years and drink well for several after that. I went back to this Cabernet after it had been open for a full 24 hours and found it to be even tastier and more expressive than it was on the first day.

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Visiting Gargiulo Vineyards

Whenever I travel to Napa or other Wine Regions I’m always looking to check gargiuloout producers I haven’t visited before. Often times I get recommendations when I’m out and about tasting. What I find really interesting is that just about every trip there is one place that seems to have some undercurrent of buzz about it. No matter where I go or who I speak to eventually it seems that folks get around to mentioning a specific winery. This trip I lost track of how many folks suggested I check out Gargiulo Vineyards. The people making the suggestion ranged from individuals at other wineries to folks I tasted side by side with elsewhere. After a couple of days of hearing about them, the groundswell building in my head convinced me to go see what they had going on; so I called and scheduled an appointment. Gargiulo is a boutique family owned Napa Valley Estate Winery. They produce 3,500 cases of wine, primarily from two separate Estate Vineyards in Oakville; one at their Winery site right on Oakville Crossroad near Silverado Trail and one on Money Road. In addition to Bordeaux Varietals they have Sangiovese and Pinot Grigio planted as well.

When I arrived at Gargiulo Vineyards I was immediately taken by the lovely and welcoming grounds. I made my way to the tasting room which was incredibly comfortable and warm, with rustic flourishes. In one corner a handful of guitars stood on their stands. Apparently everyone who knows how to play is welcome to pick one up and strum. All of these things come together to form a tranquil space to spend some time and yes, taste wine in.

The first wine we were poured was the Rosato di Sangiovese. This dry Rosé was refreshing and an excellent way to get things going. Tastings at Gargiulo are by appointment. Once everyone who was going to be in my tasting group settled in we sat around a nice large square table with ultra comfortable chairs. We were then led through our wines by a member of the Gargiulo team. The second wine we tasted was accompanied by a dish of morsels for each guest to munch on. Olives, cheese, nuts and more made up the treats on hand. That second wine Aprile, was my overall favorite. This offering, named for the owner’s daughter is a blend of Sangiovese (97%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (3%). They call this their Super Oakville Blend which is a nod to the Super Tuscan blends that inspired it. What impressed me about this offering was its combination of complexity, length, drink-ability and good acidic structure. This is a classic food wine and I was craving a dish of pasta.

After that we tasted a Merlot and several Cabernet Sauvignons. I’m happy to report that there wasn’t a clunker in the bunch. Each wine was a fine example of Oakville fruit and the varietal in question. I was particularly impressed with the Merlot which was made with structure, length and most importantly true varietal character. When they are well made Merlots appeal to people who like Cabernet Sauvignon. The Money Road Ranch offering from Gargiulo is such a Merlot. The Cabernets were nice too and each had the stuffing to age for a number of years. Each of the Gargiulo wines I tasted was well made and would match well with typically appropriate cuisine.

After we’d gone through all the wines we took a tour of the grounds and the winemaking facilities. This being Oakville, Gargiulo has some pretty well known neighbors surrounding them; Screaming Eagle is amongst them.

In addition to the tasting I attended Gargiulo offers some other options. At least one of them includes Lunch prepared by owner Jeff Gargiulo. I found the wines, surroundings, people and overall tasting experience at Gargiulo to be an excellent and impressive one. More and more wineries are doing sit down tastings by appointment these days. Some of them work very well and some fall flat, the one at Gargiulo is a keeper.

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Visiting Terra Valentine

terravalentineOne of the great things about visiting Wine Country is the number of stories and history each Winery has. While these vary greatly, one of particular interest is that of Terra Valentine. While that winery as an entity only dates back to 1999, their facility has a much longer and pretty fascinating back story. The building that is the Terra Valentine Winery as well as a guest cottage on their property were both built by original owner Fred Aves. Over many years he built everything by hand. This included stained glass windows, doors, cast metal stairs, a multitude of stonework and much more. Visiting Terra Valentine is a fascinating insight into the vision of an iconoclast and his singular drive to create something unique. Fred Aves did make wine at the winery which he called Yverdon, for a number of years. But he was a reclusive fellow and didn’t really share his craft or his creations with many.

About a decade ago Angus and Margaret Wurtele discovered the property up for sale after Fred had passed on. They purchased it and spent time cleaning it up and adding modern winery equipment. While they make a number of other wines the focus at Terra Valentine is on Cabernet Sauvignon. They make several single vineyard designates both from the property the winery sits on and another Spring Mountain District parcel the Wurtele’s own.

Each of the Cabernet’s I tried was delicious and well made. Amore, their blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon really stood out to me. It was a classic food wine that paired very well with the bites of food served with the tasting.

Visiting Terra Valentine requires an advance appointment. They have several standard tour times per day. Outside of that they do their best to accommodate visitor’s needs. Once you’re there you get a tour of the facility while tasting the first wine. The day I went it was a lovely Viognier. Once the tour is over you proceed to a spacious tasting room. There at grand table you sit down and go through quite a few of their other wines. As I mentioned above these are paired with some small bites to nibble on. Overall you spend a bit over an hour there. You’ll get to tour a fascinating and beautiful facility with a unique history and taste some really nice wines. This is an excellent way to spend some time in my book. When you do go, give yourself plenty of time to get there. The road up Spring Mountain is windy and takes longer than the actual distance might seem to indicate.

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Visiting Swanson Vineyards

Someone has to be the best. At the very least, with any interest or passion I have, there needs to be a faswansonvorite. It doesn't mean there aren't others I love, but there is always one that for some reason has something on the others. Ask me who my favorite ballplayer is and there will be no space from the time you ask until the name "Don Mattingly," rolls off my tongue. I love many Yankees a lot, but Donnie Baseball is number one for me. The same is true of wineries, tasting rooms and wine tasting experiences. There are many regions I adore and a ton of wineries doing a terrific job in each of them. But if you ask me what my favorite is, the one that gets me back every time I'm in the area, the answer is Swanson Vineyards. They also happen to make some of my favorite wines in Napa. Which came first, the chicken or the egg? In this case I'm not sure. But I can tell you that if I didn't love the Swanson Wines it wouldn't matter how good the tasting experience was, eventually, I'd get bored. Because let's face it, wine is the reason I'm in Napa to begin with. Swanson Vineyards doesn't have a tasting room per se. What they do have is a facility in front of their Winery known as the Salon. Decadence with a wink is their stock in trade. And believe me they do that as well as it can be done. Tastings are by appointment and come in standard (Jean Lafite) for $30, or reserve (Harvey) for $55. Both tastings are similar in style the difference being the selection of wines being poured. Swanson has three wines that see wide distribution, Pinot Grigio, Alexis (Cabernet Sauvignon) and Merlot their workhorse which represents 2/3 of their production. The bevy of other wines they make, including an entire line of dessert wines (up to 8 at any one time) are mostly aimed at their wine club and tasting guests.

At most eight guests are accommodated at one time for a tasting at Swanson. The moment you arrive and park your car someone will greet you warmly before you reach the gate. More often than not, they come bearing Rosato, their dry Rosé made of Syrah. As you're ushered into the Salon it's like a trip into a good friends home. The Salon is an absolutely gorgeous and serene environment. In the center of it all is a table that looks to be setup for a dinner party. As people arrive they're allowed to settle in and sit at their leisure. At that point the Salonier (host or hostess) will tell you a bit about the winery and take you through the wines on tap for that day. The Harvey tasting which is the one I tend towards usually features 7 wines. Truth be told, they often throw an extra one in during the proceedings if things are rolling. What I mean by that is cross talk and fraternization amongst the guests who have just met, and with the host are both highly encouraged. Great groups inspire more of the host and enthusiastic crews often get a bonus. Each wine has something to pair it with. At my my most recent visits, several were matched with cheeses, one with caviar on a potato chip and one with a signature bon bon. The wines poured and what they're matched with change; however the Merlot and Alexis are almost always part of the mix.

It's been my pleasure to be in the Swanson Salon with just about every size group. That includes with just myself and the host on a quiet winter afternoon and most often as was the case today with a full house. Both experiences are terrific, but when the room is full with the right people as it was today with myself and some lovely folks from North Carolina things reach a higher plane. As I said above, this all wouldn't matter much if the wines weren't excellent, which they most certainly are. Swanson is the largest producer of Estate Merlot in Napa and theirs is one to be reckoned with. It has structure, length and a load of flavor. Having had it over the last decade this wine is always delicious upon release but personally I like it better with about 5 or 6 years of age on it. If you lean towards Cabernet Sauvignon, you'll like the Swanson Merlot. The Chardonnay is hands down my favorite Chardonnay in Napa Valley. The production is tiny and aimed at the wine club; ask nicely and they'll sell you some at the Salon. Other wines such as small production Petite Sirah and Sangiovese are also full flavored expressions of each varietal. I'm a sucker for good Petite Sirah and I always look forward to my shipment from Swanson. The dessert wines are so varied in range and style that they deserve their own article. The Swanson dessert offerings are made of everything from Chardonnay to Petite Sirah; my personal favorite is Angelica which is made from Mission grapes.

If having a great time, making new friends, drinking elegant wines perfectly paired with little morsels to munch on, in a warm, welcoming enviornment isn't your idea of a good time, then by all means don't go to Swanson Vineyards. But if you're like the other 99.9999999% of us then you need to go to Swanson Vineyards Salon. Imagine the liveliest and most memorable dinner party you've ever been to. Now add amazing wine and you might start to get the idea.  Like I always tell my friends who are travelling to Napa, "If You've been to Napa Valley but you haven't been to Swanson, you really haven't been to Napa Valley."

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Visiting Fontanella Family Winery

TastingroomWhen I got up this morning I had no plans to visit Fontanella Family Winery. In fact, I wasn't familiar with them. That all changed pretty quickly. For the second time in a few months I had the opportunity to spend some time with Peter Rubissow of Rubissow Wines. It was once again an excellent time; a detailed report of my first visit to Rubissow is available. The offshoot of all that is that Peter recommended Fontanella. I headed straight to their tasting room a bit further down the hill on Mount Veeder when I left Peter. Karen Fontanella greeted me warmly when I arrived. I got a brief history of their winery which is a pretty new operation. Work on their tasting room was completed just about a year ago in the summer of 2008. They've been pouring wines there by appointment ever since. We went through their current releases which are made from purchased fruit. They have extensive plans to plant on their own property in the area surrounding the winery and tasting room. For now though they have sourced their fruit from sources they are familiar with, both friends and others. While there is quite a bit of Mount Veeder fruit in their wines they also source in Calistoga, Rutherford and Carneros. Once their vines are planted and bearing fruit they will ultimately make Mount Veeder Appellation wines.

Jeff Fontanella is the winemaker and he founded this winery along with his wife Karen. His prior wine-making experience includes work at Opus One, ZD Wines and Saddleback. Along the way he picked up a host of experience which helped him hone his craft and find his personal sweet spot in terms of wine-making style and philosophy. I didn't get to meet Jeff this time out but his wines spoke for him, quite loudly:

The 2007 Fontanella Chardonnay is an even split of Carneros and Mount Veeder Fruit. This Chardonnay reminded me of the Van Halen song "Ain't Talkin' 'bout Love." Specifically when David Lee Roth sings, "I've been to the edge, and there I stood and looked down." The reason for that is that this wine really skated the oak edge for me. I found it had just enough oak treatment to add layers of complexity and make it really interesting to drink and contemplate, but not enough to bog it down or mask the fruit. The nose of this wine is very expressive and the finish has a nice rich and creamy edge. The wine retails for $30.

The 2006 Fontanella Cabernet Sauvugnon is made from Rutherford (86%) and Mount Veeder (16%) fruit. More than anything I was salivating, hoping someone would show up with some fork tender Filet Mignon when I tasted this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. As there was no grill in sight I was left to think about this wine. It's a well structured wine that features lots of berry fruit flavors and firm but yielding tannins. Rutherford dust, baker's chocolate are out in force on the finish along with some espresso notes. This is a really nice Cabernet that should improve with some bottle age. It sells for $55.

The 2007 Fontanella Zinfandel is made up of Calistoga (67%) and Mount Veeder (33%) fruit If I wanted to sit in the corner, sip wine and contemplate life this Zinfandel would be a good choice. It has a big, bold, hedonistic nose that draws you to the glass. Rich, ripe, berry jam fruit notes are copious throughout the palate along with some spice reference points. The finish of this Zin is soft, smooth, silky and of excellent length. As soon as it's fades you'll want another sip.

In addition to these current releases I had the opportunity to taste barrel samples of the Cabernet Sauvignon components for the next release. They seemed to indicate consistency of quality and style, good signs in my book. As I mentioned above to visit Fontanella you need to make an appointment, so keep that in mind before visiting. Picking up the phone to make that call is well worth your time. The tasting room at Fontanella is cozy, welcoming and well appointed. It has a nice view of their property which will be under vine before long. Most importantly the wines are delicious, well made, artisinal offerings that are worth the extra effort to seek out. Karen Fontanella is a very gracious and charming host who will be happy to tell you about the wines and the burgeoning history of their winery. They're already on my short list to revisit on my next trip to Napa as I expect the lovely wines to continue. Special thanks to Peter for the recommendation.

Brancott - 2008 Pinot Grigio

Quick, what grape do you think of when New Zealand comes up in brancott-pgconversation? I'll bet your answer was either Pinot Noir or Sauvignon Blanc. There's good reason for that as it's those two grapes that have really made their mark for New Zealand. But of course they aren't the only two varietals being grown there. Today I'll look at a Pinot Grigio from Brancott. The 2008 Brancott Pinot Grigio is made from fruit that was mostly sourced in Marlborough. The remainder is from the lesser known (to this point) Waipara region. This Pinot Grigio saw no oak treatment. The wine was left on light lees for a period of three months and stirred weekly. The alcohol for this offering is a modest 13% and the suggested retail price is $14.

The hue of this wine is a very light, pale yellow in color. Lemon zest, anjou pear and hints of white pepper are apparent in the expressive nose. Throughout the palate this Pinot Grigio is soft, lush and full of gentle, concentrated flavorful fruit. White peach, hints of tangerine and continued pear are all part of the mix here. Nutmeg, additional white pepper and touches of clove emerge on the finish. This wine has excellent acidity and is a sure bet to match with a wide array of lighter cuisine. I paired it with a chicken and vegetable stir fry and found that it worked quite well.

For $14 (less if you shop around), this wine is a nice value. It exhibits plenty of Pinot Grigio character and has a ton of flavor. Don' be afraid of overbuying this wine, it has the structure and acidity to drink well over the next couple of years. So no need to worry about drinking it all up during summer 2009.

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Simonsig - 2008 Chenin Blanc

Simonsig_Chenin_Label_NV_mainA little over a year ago I had the opportunity to taste the Simonsig wines with Pieter Malan of Simonsig Family Vineyards; you can read my report from that lunch here. One of the standout wines was the 2007 Chenin Blanc. So when I had the opportunity to taste the 2008 vintage I was curious to see how it would be and if it would compare, stylistically and quality wise. Chenin Blanc is an important grape for South Africa as it tends to thrive there. The 2008 Sinonsig Family Vineyards Chenin Blanc was made from fruit mostly sourced in the Koelenhof area. This wine is 100% Chenin Blanc. Some of the harvested grapes had developed Botrytis. This "noble rot" is thought of more often when crafting dessert wines. 28,000 cases of this vintage were produced and the suggested retail price is $11.99

Apple, orange blossom and tangerine notes are all part of a bright, expressive, summery nose. The palate of this Chenin Blanc is rich and mouth-filling with creamy notes on the mid-palate that overlay and enhance tons of orchard fruit notes. Those are mostly ripe and bright, but hints of green apple do come through and add an additional dimension. Hazelnut, along with touches of honey emerge on the finish and give this wine hints of sweetness. This offering drinks quite nicely on it's own and there are quite a number of layers to contemplate. However this wine would also be a natural to pair with curry based Indian dishes.

The bottom line for me is that the 2008 Simonsig Chenin Blanc is a lovely expression of the varietal, from one of the key regions for this under-appreciated grape. It's also important to note that this offering is consistent in quality, style and overall value with the 2007 vintage.

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Urraca - 2005 Familia Langley Reserva

Many well known wine regions make blends inspired by the well known examples that come out of Bordeaux. These can fall flat when the urracawinery in question is simply trying to imitate a style. However when a producer aspires to make the best blend possible with the fruit available to them, all the while showing off their terroir, they have a much better chance of hitting the mark. Today I'll look at the third wine from Urraca, which is a Bordeaux style blend. The 2005 Urraca Familia Langley Reserva is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (36%), Malbec (36%), Cabernet Franc (17%) and Merlot (11%). Oak aging was accomplished in a combination of French and American barrels over a period of 18 months. The suggested retail price for this offering is $72.

Leather, vanilla, dark brooding berry and hints of espresso bean are all present in the nose. Lots of plum, blueberry, and a host of dark, ripe, heady berry fruit are prominent throughout the full bodied palate along with plum pudding spice. Sweet dark chocolate notes, black tea, mineral, white pepper, cigar-box and ever emerging earth characteristics come together to form an impressively lengthy finish. This blend has chewy tannins, good acidity and excellent overall structure. Pair it with big, bold foods that can match it's combination of power and elegance. The blend may be made of Old World components, but this is very much a New World wine.

As was the case with the 2005 Primera this wine should be decanted for maximum enjoyment if you're going to drink it in the next couple of years. My advice however is to tuck this away in your cellar and forget about if for the next 5 years or so. Then dig it out and drink it sometime over the next 8-10 years. The Urraca wines I have had are all excellent, well made, "high end" offerings. There are a ton of well priced, well made wines coming from South America in general and Argentina specifically. many of these offer value, and sufficient complexity for everyday drinking. The wines from Urraca aim for a different goal, they shoot for greatness. These delicious, complex wines meet their goal. In my opinion these offerings stand with a handful of other Argentine producers as examples of the best wines they offer.

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Urraca - 2005 Primera

urraca-primeraMalbec is more closely identified with Argentina than any other single grape variety. There's good reason for that; while it’s made elsewhere Malbec absolutely flourishes and reaches its apex there. The wide array of styles in which Malbec is made reminds me of how diverse Zinfandel can be in California. Some choose to make it brash and exuberant while others go for more of a refined and elegant style. Each has its benefits. Not surprisingly Urraca Wines has more acres of Malbec under vine than any other varietal. Cabernet Sauvignon is a close second however. Today I’ll look at one of their Malbec based blends.

The 2005 Urraca Primera is a blend of Malbec (70%) and Merlot (30%). Oak treatment was accomplished with 18 months in a combination of French and American barrels. The suggested retail price for this offering is $37.

I highly recommend decanting this selection if you’re going to be drinking it over the next couple of years. An hour is very helpful, and closer to two hours would be even better. Once it’s had that chance to breathe this wine starts really expressing itself. The intoxicating nose features blueberry, plum and violets along with touches of cedar. There is a terrific purity of fruit through the palate that can not help itself but impress as it is intense, layered and just downright delicious. Black cherries are the most prominent along with additional berry fruits as well as fruitcake spice. Chocolate, hints of pencil lead and plenty of earth emerge on the long, persistent finish. Black and white pepper note linger so long them seem like they’ll never stop coming. This offering has firm tannins and excellent acidity. Roasted meats or game will be a natural match for this blend.

There are several things that impress me about this wine. The intense and pure fruit I mentioned above is one. The other is the fact that this blend is a perfect combination of characteristics. The Malbec shows its hedonistic, brash nature, and the Merlot provides backbone and structure. This is a tremendous wine that deserves and demands attention. Not an offering you want to rush to drink, rather one to contemplate over a nice meal with friends who will be lucky that you shared this Argentine powerhouse with them.

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Urraca - 2007 Chardonnay

Each week I taste a lot of different wines. The quality, intent and price ranges urraca_chardonnayof these differ greatly. I’m always interested in what the producer’s intent was when making a wine. Are they looking to make the type of value you can afford to drink everyday and find anywhere for $10? Are they looking to create a wine that might get high scores? Are they looking to just make great wine? After considering intent the other thing I look for in wines that I write about are selections that speak to me. Several months ago I had the Urraca wines at a large scale tasting in Manhattan. They left a real impression and I thought about them from time to time. So much so that I decided I need to retry them and see if they were as impressive as I recalled. Over the next couple of days I’ll look at three selections. I’ll start today with their Chardonnay. The 2007 Urraca Chardonnay is produced from grapes sourced in their own 5 acre Chardonnay Vineyard. This selection is 100% Chardonnay. Oak aging was accomplished over a 6 month period in French barrels. Just 250 cases of this offering were produced. The suggested retail price is $37.

The nose of this Argentine Chardonnay is an apple orchard with touches of cedar and vanilla underscoring the lively fruit aromas. Continued apple, pear, and zesty lemon notes are prominent throughout the palate. In the mid-palate hints of smokiness kick in and continue through finish which also features significant mineral notes and touches of spice. This wine has excellent acidity and good structure.

What impresses me most about this Chardonnay is its balance. The oak treatment adds complexity but never comes close to obtruding the fresh fruit flavors. This wine is an absolutely gorgeous expression of Chardonnay. There are a lot of fine Chardonnays coming out of Argentina, many of them in the value category. This example from Urraca is a step up from most of them in complexity, age-ability, and yes price. However the quality of this wine warrants the price. If a wine of this quality had a Burgundy or Napa appellation on it the cost would be closer to $60. Therefore this Chardonnay fulfills it's intent of being a world class offering. Please stay tuned as I look at two more wines from Urraca this week!

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Bodega Septima - 2008 Chardonnay

septima-chardBodega Septima is a Mendoza, Argentina based winery. This region of Argentina is the one most familiar to US consumers at this time. The winery has a history that dates back 10 years. In 1999 they were founded by the Codorníu Group who have winery proprties in several distinct, world-wide locations. Originally starting with 470 acres, they now have well over 800 acres in Mendoza. The stated goal of Bodega Septima is to produce wines that take into account both Argentine tradition and modern global techniques. Today I'll look at their current release of Chardonnay. The 2008 Bodega Septima Chardonnay is produced from grapes in their Luján de Cuyo vineyard; 3,900 feet above sea level. This offering is 100% Chardonnay. This wine was aged in a combination of French and American oak barrels. Alcohol for this selection is a modest 13.3%. The suggested retail price for this South American Chardonnay is $12.

This 2008 wine has a fresh, light yellow hue. Green apple and anjou pear emerges in the nose along with a touch of vanilla bean. Pear and apples flavors continue through the palate, joined by pineapple and hints of additional tropical flavors. Most interesting is a light later of citrus (lemon custard comes to mind) that starts mid-palate and continues through the finish. hints of creaminess also echo through the finish along with subtle nutmeg spice. This Chardonnay has very good acidity. Chicken Piccata would be an excellent match for this offering, which is also quite tasty on its own.

Fresh fruit flavors burst out of this wine, which is what impresses me most. It complements summer nicely. If you happen to drink it in cool weather it's going to make you wish for warmer days.  This wine is most commonly available for right around $10; another example of the many values coming from Argentina,

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Martin & Weyrich - 2006 Petit Verdot

mw_crest_colorMartin & Weyrich's history in Paso Robles dates back almost 30 years, to 1981. When they bought their first parcel of land only a handful of other wineries existed in the area. Today Paso Robles is a hot region recognized by more and more folks everyday as an area with distinct wines, often at excellent prices. The array of offerings in the Martin & Weyrich portfolio is impressive. Initially focusing mostly on Italian varietals they have expanded to include Bordeaux and Rhone offerings as well. In fact they have one of the widest selections in Paso Robles. None of that would matter if they weren't making excellent wines, which they are. Today I'll look at their current release Petit Verdot. The 2006 Martin & Weyrich Petit Verdot is one of their smaller case productions. This selection is primarily produced for their Avanti Wine Club; however it does show up in a very limited number of Central Coast wine shops and a handful of restaurants as well. The suggested retail price for this wine is $30.

I really wish more wineries would produce a stand alone, varietal Petit Verdot. While it's often part of Bordeaux style blends, this grape is too rarely given the chance to star on its own. This example from Martin & Weyrich is evidence that it should be given that opportunity more often. Dark plum, cedar and black pepper are all part of a heady and intoxicating nose. The palate of this Petit Verdot is rich and velvety with a luxurious mouth-feel. An abundance of dark fruits such as blackberry, dark cherry and raspberry as well as plum fill the middle of this wine with appealing berry pie flavors. Spice notes in the form of continued pepper, allspice, star anise, cloves and hints of cardamon underpin the palate and continue through a lovely and lingering finish. Touches of vanilla emerge as well and add a hint of lighter flavor to what is a mostly dark (gloriously so) flavor profile. This wine has sufficient acidity and nice structure. I found Lamb to be an excellent match for this beauty. Full flavored foods in general will do well.

This wine is one of the exceptions that proves the rule for me. Martin & Weyrich is one of the larger producers in Paso Robles. Many of their wines are widely available. They do a nice job with those. A wine like this, made in limited quantities and not widely available helps set them apart. This Petit Verdot is both delicious and unique. It's clear they put as much care and effort into this exclusive bottling as they do into their larger productions. Another reason to look towards Martin & Weyrich for well made, interesting wines at a fair price.

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