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Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

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Rodney Strong Vineyards - 2006 Brothers Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon / 2006 Rockaway Cabernet Sauvignon

Last year Rodney Strong Vineyards added a new wine to their line. In addition to the County wines, Reserve wine etc. they added the Rockaway Cabernet Sauvignon. This was a single vineyard effort and was made in a smaller production than the vast majority of their other releases. This year they added a second release in this category. Today I’ll cover both of the current releases of these single vineyard Cabernets. First up is the Rodney Strong Vineyards 2006 Brothers Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon. This selection is made entirely from fruit sourced at the Brothers Ridge Vineyard in Alexander Valley. This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel aging was accomplished over 22 months in French oak; 42% of the barrels were new. The suggested retail price for this wine is $75.

Vanilla, cedar, blackberry and leather are all prominent in the nose of this 2006 Cabernet. The rich, ripe and structured palate of this wine features relentless and powerful layers of intense dark fruit. Continued blackberry and dark plum are right up front throughout. Sweet dark chocolate, as well as persistent and lingering mineral notes lead the finish along with earth notes in spades. The alcohol for this wine clocks in over 15%. Despite that it doesn’t drink hot at all and retains good balance, marked by excellent acidity.

The second wine is the Rodney Strong Vineyards 2006 Rockaway Cabernet Sauvignon. The fruit for this wine was sourced at the Rockaway vineyard which was planted in 1994. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (97%), small amounts of Malbec (2%) and Petit Verdot (1%) were blended in. Barrel aging was accomplished over 22 months in French oak; 47% of them were new. The suggested retail price for this wine is $75.

Black raspberry, plum and wisps of vanilla are all apparent on the nose of the 2006 Rockaway Cabernet Sauvignon. The palate of this wine is big and beefy with alternating red and dark fruit characteristics. Licorice, graphite, earth, hints of espresso and dark, dusty chocolate are all part of the lengthy finish. This wine has firm tannins and solid acidity.

I like each of these Cabernets a lot. They’re excellent and distinct expressions of specific vineyards in 2006. Both are tasty now and each will also benefit with a bit of additional bottle age. The Brothers Ridge is the more immediately accessible today with about an hour in the decanter really opening it up. The Rockaway is tighter right now and needs closer to 2 hours to really express itself. These wines are best enjoyed with substantial foods.

Considered alongside their portfolio as a whole these wines also add another dimension of complexity to the Rodney Strong family of offerings. They’re a huge Sonoma producer and it’s good to see them also spreading some of their focus to a couple of small production offerings. Here’s hoping this program gets expanded in the future to include other small production, single vineyard offerings, whether its additional Cabernet or some other varietals.

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Rodney Strong Vineyards - 2007 Chalk Hill Chardonnay / 2006 Alexander Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

Sonoma County’s Rodney Strong Vineyards is one of the wineries I’ve gone back to time and again for a look at current releases. In addition to being a consistent producer at a wide-ranging number of tiers, they’re wines are also extensively available throughout the country. My next few posts will look at six wines in their portfolio that I recently tasted and enjoyed. In addition to wines under the Rodney Strong Vineyards name I’ll also look at a few releases from one of their other labels. Today I’ll cover one of their Chardonnays and a Cabernet Sauvignon. First up is the Rodney Strong Vineyards 2007 Chalk Hill Chardonnay. This selection is produced using  fruit sourced from Chalk Hill. This wine is 100% Chardonnay. 97% of it underwent malolactic and was aged in French oak for 9 months.  The suggested retail price for this offering is $20.

Intermingling fruit aromas, particularly pear and apple burst from the nose of this Chardonnay along with vanilla and toasty oak notes. The orchard fruit theme continues throughout the palate where Macintosh apple and Asian pear notes are prominent and layered along with hints of crème fraîche, pie crust, and baker’s spices. This solid core of persistent fruit leads to a nice finish that shows off a flourish of lemon custard, wisps of smoke and a final echo of crème brûlée

The Chalk Hill Chardonnay does a nice job straddling the oak line. It has added complexity and spice characteristics that have been imparted from its time in barrel. Importantly though the oak never detracts from the fresh and lively fruit. This is a very solid Chardonnay in its price category, and a consistent one from vintage to vintage too.

The second wine I’m recommending today is the Rodney Strong Vineyards 2006 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is made from estate fruit. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (92%), Merlot (6%), and Petite Verdot (2%) are also blended in. Barrel aging was accomplished over 21 months in a combination of French and American oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is $25.

Black cherry, plum and hints of ash waft with conviction from the nose of this 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon. A back and forth tussle for your taste buds between red and black fruits occur throughout the rich and persistent palate. Dried cranberry, blackberry and continued plum notes are the most prominent. These lead to a lingering finished most notably marked by tobacco, earth, leather and a rich vein of mineral notes. A hit of sour cherry provides a final, memorable reference point. This wine has yielding tannins and good acidity.

For $25 (less if you shop wisely) this Cabernet Sauvignon provides good varietal and regional character. It’s also a fine wine to drink while your reserve Cabernets are gaining some bottle age. Much like the Chardonnay above this wine has been a consistent performer from vintage to vintage.

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Helfrich - 2007 Riesling / 2007 Pinot Gris

Some areas of the wine world bring certain varietals to mind immediately. When it comes to Alsace there is more than one that springs to mind instantly. Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris are the first three I think of. Thankfully, it seems that more quality examples of these varietals from several regions of the world, Alsace included, are landing on US shelves every year. Six generations of the Helfrich family have been making wines in Alsace. Today I’ll take a look at a couple of current releases from Helfrich, Riesling and Pinot Gris. First up is the Helfrich 2007 Riesling. This offering is made entirely from Alsatian fruit and is composed of 100% Riesling. Fermentation took place in stainless steel. This selection was finished in screw cap and the suggested retail price is $14.99.

The lovely aromatics of this wine are led by lemon zest and orchard fruit notes. White cling peach is particularly prominent and provides a very appealing quality. Throughout the full and lush palate a rich mouth feel takes hold and shows off hints of ginger as well as apple, pear and continued peach notes. A lovely mineral component leads the finish which is above average in length. Spice notes emerge as well. Everything comes together in a crisp, dry and clean fashion, leaving you wanting another sip

The highlights of this wine for me are the strong aromatics out of the gate and the mineral notes on the finish. Combined with an ever so tiny hint of sweetness, both elements help form a tasty offering that is a good example of Riesling and a nice value to boot.

The second wine is the Helfrich 2007 Pinot Gris. This selection is also made from 100% Alsatian fruit. This wine is composed entirely of Pinot Gris. Fermentation occurred in stainless steel. This Pinot Gris was finished in screw cap and the suggested retail price is $14.99.

Aromas of honey, hazelnut, lychee, Anjou pear and golden delicious apple are all present in the bright, forward nose of this 2007 Pinot Gris. The palate of this offering is rich and full flavored. Sweet, ripe fruit flavors abound; apple nectar is particularly striking. Spice notes really kick in around mid-palate and continue through the finish with nutmeg, white pepper and hints of smoke standing as the most forward of these. As with the Riesling the finish is also above average in length. Solid acidity balances the inherent sweetness of this wine and keeps things in check.

I love this Pinot Gris for its versatility. Whether served as a welcome wine, with appetizers or accompanying your main meal this 2006 Pinot Gris will work nicely. Roast pork tender loin with apple compote would be a perfect match.

Both of these releases from Helfrich represent good examples of their respective varietals at fair prices. These are well worth tasting.

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Lucas & Lewellen Vineyards - 2007 Santa Barbara County Chardonnay

While discovering new wineries is terrific, I like to balance that with a look at releases from producers that I have found to be reliable over a period of time. Lucas & Lewellen is one such Winery. I became aware of them a few years ago when some selections from their sister label Mandolina were featured over at woot.com. I've come to like not only their wines but also the value they represent. Today I'll look at one of their current releases of Chardonnay. This fruit for the 2007 Lucas & Lewellen Chardonnay is sourced from their Goodchild and Los Alamos Vineyards. Both of these are located within the Santa Barbara County AVA. This selection is 100% Chardonnay. Fermentation was accomplished in stainless steel. 1,002 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $16.

A combination of orchard and stone fruit aromas waft from the nose of this Chardonnay. Both pear and apple intermingle throughout the palate, with the pear notes leading the way. Hints of lemon pudding kick in about midway through and carry through the finish which is lengthy and also features baker's spice and a hint of white pepper. This wine has excellent acidity and will pair well with a variety of foods. A cheese and fruit plate would be a particularly excellent match.

If you've read this site for any length of time you've probably gotten the drift that over-oaked Chardonnay is something I have particular disdain for. I don't mind some oak, but I'm always wary when approaching a Chardonnay. No need for concern here as this offering is made in Stainless Steel. The fruit here is so fresh, so gloriously sumptuous that I'm glad there was nothing in the way to detract from those wonderful flavors. This is another excellent value from Lucas & Lewellen, once again they over deliver on price point.

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Thanksgiving On A Budget With The Robert Mondavi Family of Wines

With Thanksgiving a couple of days away it’s time to think about what wines to serve with your holiday meal. This year, as much if not more than any other, many are faced with the need to make the holiday not only joyful but affordable as well. With that in mind I’ve picked out a trio of tasty selections that come in at a budget price. All three come from labels that were started by Robert Mondavi. Over the years in addition to his namesake Napa winery he started a number of other labels in all parts of the world with numerous focuses. Today I’ll look at three from California facilities that hit the spot taste wise and won’t break the budget either. First up is the Robert Mondavi Private Selection 2008 Sauvignon Blanc. The fruit for this wine comes predominately from Monterey County (92%) with San Benito County (5%) and Paso Robles (3%) making up the rest. In addition to Sauvignon Blanc (94%), Riesling (3%) and Gewürztraminer (3%) are blended in. This selection was aged and fermented in stainless steel. The suggested retail price for this offering is $11.

Lemon Zest notes dominate the fresh nose of this Sauvignon Blanc Throughout the palate stone and citrus fruit characteristics are prominent. Lemon ice in particular is a standout flavor. A hint of grass comes in during the mid-palate and continues through the finish along with mineral notes and a touch of flint. The finish is crisp and clean featuring good length in its category and excellent acidity.

Especially at holiday time it’s nice to have several wines throughout the day. This Sauvignon Blanc will serve equally well as a welcome wine or paired with appetizers. It’s tasty on it’s own but the terrific acidity it showcases will help make it a match with a host of lighter foods.

The second wine is the Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi 2007 Zinfandel. Fruit for this wine is sourced mostly in Lodi (94%) with the balance coming from several other California regions. In addition to Zinfandel (91%), Merlot (3%), Petite Sirah (2%), Malbec (2%) Cabernet Sauvignon and other varieties (2%) are blended in. The suggested retail price for this wine is $8.

This 2007 wine leads with a jam-laden nose, so typically associated with Zinfandel. It’s loaded with berry, cherry and hint of cedar. The palate is very juicy with red and black fruit flavors intermingling and fighting your tongue for attention, Black cherry is particularly prominent. The finish features sweet cocoa, sour berry, white pepper and vanilla that echoes persistently. This is a well balanced and food friendly Zinfandel.

Thanksgiving is perhaps the most American of holidays. Zinfandel is the closest we have to a heritage grape in this country. The two go together philosophically as well as they do pairing wise. This wine is a good fit for the abundant cornucopia of foods on the average American Thanksgiving table. For $8 a bottle you can have a lot of it on hand to quench everyone’s thirst.

The final wine for a tasty and budget priced Thanksgiving is the Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi 2008 Moscato. Grapes for this wine were sourced from throughout California. This 100% Muscat is a blend of Muscat Canelli (60%), Orange Muscat (30%) and Muscat of Alexandria (10%). Alcohol content is a modest 10% for this selection. The suggested retail price for this wine is $8.

Lychee fruit and honey clove make up the inviting nose of this wine. Orange blossom, tangerine and apricot notes are all prominent throughout the palate of this Moscato. Subtle white pepper notes kick in around mid-palate and continue through the finish along with additional honey and citrus notes. This wine is light, fragrant and sweet but not overly so.

This 2008 Moscato will be a good choice to pair with dessert. Fruit tart or Italian Cheesecake both come to mind as excellent matches. Alternatively this wine could be dessert on its own.

Each of these wines is true to its varietal and is a solid value. Shop around and you’ll find them for less than the suggested retail price. Savvy shoppers will be able to round all three of them up for less than $25 combined. Now that’s some Holiday drinking on a budget. These wines are also widely available so you should easily be able to find them throughout the US and beyond.

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Stepping Stone - 2007 Grenache / 2007 Cabernet Franc

Earlier this year I had the opportunity to taste and write about what were then the current Cabernet Sauvignon releases for Cornerstone Cellars in Napa. Both wines were truly exceptional; the Howell Mountain Cabernet was a particularly special bottle. A few months later I had the chance, while I was out in Napa Valley, to taste some of their older vintages as well as what were then upcoming releases. Once again the wines were very impressive. So I was quite pleased to find wines from their second label Stepping Stone on my desk to sample. Today I’ll look at their current releases of Grenache and Cabernet Franc. Stay tuned for a close look at the current releases from their main label soon too. First up is the Stepping Stone 2007 Grenache. The fruit for this wine was sourced in Lake County. In addition to Grenache (96%), a bit of Zinfandel (4%) is blended in as well. 500 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $20.

Personally I’ve been drinking more and more Grenache of late. As time has gone on I’ve found it to be amongst the food friendliest of red varietals. This Stepping Stone selection opens with deep, dark berry aromas. Strawberry, rhubarb, blackberry pie and a host of spice notes are all part of the full flavored palate. The dark fruit continues through the finish where it’s joined by black pepper and a final savory note that clings persistently to the back of the throat. Ultimately it draws you in for another sip. This Grenache is framed by good acidity.

The second selection is the Stepping Stone 2007 Cabernet Franc. The fruit for this offering was sourced in Carneros. In addition to Cabernet Franc (90%), Merlot (10%) has been blended in. 500 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $30.

When I’m out tasting wine, there are certain varietals whose mere presence on a tasting sheet build up anticipation. Even before getting to them on the list I find myself thinking about them and hoping that they live up to my expectation for that varietal. Cabernet Franc is most definitely one of those grapes. So as you could imagine, I'm glad that the second selection from Stepping Stone is a Cabernet Franc.

This 2007 Cabernet Franc from Carneros leads with leather, plum, blueberry and a hint of eucalyptus in the nose. Continued plum and blueberry combine in a gentle, layered and diverse palate. Cigar box emerges on the finish along with mineral and gentle hints of earth and little waves of spice. This wine has absolutely terrific acidity. Much like the Grenache this Cabernet Franc is a food lover’s delight.

First off these two releases under Cornerstone Cellars Stepping Stone label are delicious wines in their own right. Secondly, each is an excellent examples of Grenache and Cabernet Franc respectively. They also do a fine job representing the regions where the fruit was sourced. While not intended for long term aging like the Cornerstone Cabernet’s these Stepping Stone wines will be delicious for the next 3-5 years. They’re reasonably priced for the quality they offer and both would be solid bets with a wide array of food.

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Campo Viejo - 2006 Crianza

vino_crianzaWines from the Rioja region of Spain were the first from that county to hit my radar. Over the last few years wines from other Spanish regions are rightfully getting a lot of acclaim. That doesn’t mean we should forget about Rioja which still represents some of the great values of the world. Today I’ll look at a Crianza from Campo Viejo. According to Wine law in Spain to be labeled as Crianza a red wine must be aged for at least 2 years with a minimum of 6 months in oak before release. The Campo Viejo 2006 Crianza is composed primarily of Tempranillo with Garnacha and Mazuela blended in. Barrel aging occurred over 12 months. This was followed by bottle aging prior to release. The suggested retail price for this wine is $10.

Cherry and cedar aromas are prominent on the nose of this 2006 wine from Rioja. A persistent core of fruit presents itself throughout the palate; sour cherry, and raspberry are preeminent with subtler blackberry fruit as well as spice notes that include nutmeg and white pepper. Cherry pie crust characteristics lead the finish. They’re joined by continued red berry fruit and hints of dust. This wine has soft tannins and excellent acidity. This Crianza will pair well with a casual spread of hard cheeses, olives, bread and cured meats.

For $10 this wine is a very good deal. Whether you’re unfamiliar with offerings from Rioja and want to experiment or are looking for an everyday wine to keep on hand this selection is an attractive choice that features lots of appealing fruit and an easy going style.

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Cameron Hughes - 2005 Lot 112 Napa County Merlot

btl_lot_112There’s no question in my mind that the Merlot grape can make some of the best wines in the world. On the other hand there are also some wines out there labeled Merlot that taste like anything but. Additionally, I’ve become pretty confident that the wines négociant Cameron Hughes is sourcing and releasing are going to be solid values. So it was with all those thoughts swirling in my head that I prepared to taste one of their current release Merlots. The Cameron Hughes 2005 Lot 112 Merlot is made from fruit sourced in two Napa County regions; Coombsville and Jamieson Canyon. While neither is officially considered a distinct appellation I know there has been plenty of thought that Coombsville will be soon. This wine is 100% Merlot. 4,700 cases of this offering were released and the suggested retail price is $12.

Blueberry, plum, and violet notes highlight the nose of this 2005 Merlot. Hints of vanilla bean are also present. The fruit on the palate leans towards red flavors with wild strawberry, cherry and raspberry in the forefront along with black pepper. Chocolate and earth emerge on the finish along with hints of dried cherry and plum. This wine has yielding tannins and good acidity.

The Lot 112 Merlot is another strong argument that price-point shouldn’t play a role in the decision to decant or not. A solid hour in the decanter really helped this selection open up. Once it did this Merlot showed itself to be both true to its varietal and also very tasty overall. For $12 this is another very nice value in the Cameron Hughes Lot Series.

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Grooner - 2008 Grüner Veltliner

grooner_06Are you drinking Grüner Veltliner? If not I highly recommend you start. For the last few years this benchmark Austrian varietal has made great inroads in the US marketplace. Examples of this wine vary from simple quaffable wines, to highly complex, age-worthy selections that beg contemplation, and everything in between. And while savvy wine lovers have been in the know on Grüner Veltliner for a while now word is also starting to reach those that like wine but don’t necessarily spend all their free time geeking out about it. That’s where Grooner comes in to bridge the gap. Importer Monika Caha found that when she poured examples of this wine for consumers they reacted positively but the name caused confusion. So she approached highly regarded winemaker Meinhard Forstreiter to create a selection specifically for the US market. The result is Grooner, which leads with the phonetic spelling for ease. Today I’ll look at their current release. The Grooner 2008 Grüner Veltliner is produced using fruit from the Niederoesterreich appellation located on the southern bank of the Danube. This selection is 100% Grüner Veltliner. The suggested retail price for this wine is $14.99.

Lemon ice, mango and vanilla notes waft gently from the nose of this 2008 Grüner Veltliner. Flavors of orange, continued mango, lemon zest and an undercurrent of green apple make up the mouth-filling palate. Pineapple characteristics kick in about ½ way through and continue through the finish along with hints of honey and a gentle touch of petrol. That final note adds a nice savory edge as well as some extra complexity that lends itself to a very memorable ending.

I’m always interested in intent when it comes to wine. Grooner achieves it’s intent swimmingly. It provides good Grüner Veltliner character at a reasonable price and it’s an appealing, easy to drink version of the varietal that serves as an excellent introduction for those unfamiliar with it. This wine will pair well with a host of foods which is one of the great hallmarks of Grüner Veltliner. That said it drinks nicely on its own and would be an excellent wine to serve with appetizers or before a meal.

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Purple Cowboy - 2007 Night Rider Merlot

purple_cowboy_merlotI find wine offerings in the everyday drinking range of interest. It’s easy (relatively speaking) to walk into a wine shop and spend a premium to get a slam dunk bottle of wine. Occasions and moods sometimes call for just that. But most of the time it’s interesting to experiment and see what’s out there that can be had for a song. The wines from Purple Cowboy hit my radar and I was curious to see what they tasted like.  Paso Robles fruit tends to pique my curiosity and the packaging matches the sort of “fun” one looks for at this price point. On top of all that there’s a charitable angle. Terry Wheatley the founder of this label is a breast cancer survivor. She comes from a family of ranchers and rodeo riders/cowboys. She also co-founded Tough Enough To Wear Pink. $1 from every case of the Purple Cowboy wines purchased (up to $100,000 in 2009-2010) goes directly to this organization. Their goal is helping rodeo organizations raise awareness of breast cancer. They urge Rodeo riders to compete wearing pink which helps focus attention and raise money. Today I’ll look at their Merlot. The 2007 Purple Cowboy Night Rider Merlot is made from all Paso Robles fruit. This offering is a blend of Merlot (95%), Cabernet Sauvignon (3%) and mixed reds (2%). Fermentation occurred in stainless steel followed by barrel aging for part of the blend. The suggested retail price for this wine is $12.

Blueberry fills the nose of this wine, and vanilla bean underscores it. The palate is a deep, dark quagmire of plums, blueberry and dark cherry. These flavors all come together to form a bruising collection of flavors that lead to a finish that features more sweet fruit and dark luscious chocolate notes. This wine has yielding tannins and good acidity. Pair this with anything that comes off of your grill or a bucket of chicken you pick up from Colonel Sanders.

In the $12 price range I want a wine that tastes like what it’s supposed to. As simple as that sounds many wines in the budget range (huge category of course) taste like anything but what the varietal label says. Purple Cowboy is very obviously Merlot. In addition to that varietal correctness it’s also got a fair level of complexity. This wine also has a flavor profile that’s going to appeal to the masses. Its clear ability to pair with a wide range of casual foods won’t hurt either. So if you’re looking for something to open on a random Tuesday night or to bring to a friends home for a BBQ or other laid back function, Purple Cowboy is a good bet. You can also feel good knowing you’ll help raise some money for a good cause.

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Urraca - 2008 Malbec / 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon

marca_urraca_altaA few months back I took a look at several wines in the Urraca portfolio. A Chardonnay and two blends were the current releases at the time. All three were impressive expressions of what can be achieved in Argentina at a super-premium level. Now Urraca has also released a couple of varietal wines that come in at a lower price point. I’ll look at their current Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon today. First up is the Urraca 2008 Malbec. The fruit for this offering, 100% Malbec, was sourced at the Urraca vineyard in Agrelo. Barrel aging was accomplished over 12 months in a combination of new French and American oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is $24.50.

Plum, black cherry and hints of vanilla bean express themselves prominently in the nose of this Malbec. Throughout the persistent palate there is a lot of intense, dark and brooding fruit. In addition to being dark though the flavors are also fresh, young, brash and deep. Blackberry and raspberry are among the standout notes. Around mid-palate sweet dark chocolate notes kick in and continue through the lovely finish where they’re joined by black pepper, espresso, smoked meat and a hint of tar. The length of the finish is above average.

For me this Malbec compares favorably to well made and jammy Zinfandels from California. The commonalities include bold and expressive fruit and a wide range of flavors. In many ways I think these varietals have a lot in common as the entry point for both can be very reasonable in price with excellent quality for the money. And that is one of the many reasons I feel Malbec is making such an impact in the US. And to continue the comparison, both Malbec and Zinfandel can achieve greater and more complex things when the fruit, and the way it’s treated come together. This Malbec is one example of that.  For a bit over $20 this wine offers a very nice value and just as importantly an excellent expression of Argentina’s signature red varietal.

The second selection today is the Urraca 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon. As with the Malbec, fruit was also sourced at the Estate vineyard in Agrelo. This selection is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and it spent 12 months in a combination of new French and American oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is $24.50.

Bing Cherry aromas are prominent in the nose of this Cabernet Sauvignon along with some vanilla and an ever so subtle hint of tar. The palate is loaded with a solid core of fruit. Plum, blueberry and continued cherry are the stars of the show. Red fruit flavors lead, but darker fruit echoes it to provide a nice contrast on the tongue. Earth and black pepper emerge in the finish which has good length and remarkable smoothness. The tannins on this wine are fine and soft and it has very solid acidity. This is an excellent food wine and found myself craving a dish of pasta with red sauce.

When I first started drinking wines from Argentina about 15 years ago Cabernet Sauvignon is what drew me in. I was amazed by the number of remarkably solid Cabs coming out of Argentina at prices other parts of the world couldn’t touch. Today there are even more wines in that category on US shelves which serve as a good introduction to Argentine wines. However there is a growing segment of wines coming from Argentina that steps things up in quality and complexity. This Cabernet Sauvignon is simply better, with more going on than many others on the shelf. Yes it’s a bit more than the selections that are pure value products. They say you get what you pay for; in this case you get more. If you normally spend around $20 on Cabernet, from California for instance, you’ll be impressed with what this one delivers for the price. My recommendation would be to drink this 2008 Cabernet from Urraca over the next few years when its young fruit flavors can best shine.

While I’m a big fan of blends and always curious to see how the diverse varietals converge to create a unique wine, straight varietal offerings are equally fascinating to me. When they represent a particular spot in a specific year as these do they tell the story of a vineyard at a moment in time. Both of these wines from Urraca do that quite well. Considered alongside their super-premium offerings the Urraca portfolio has grown in breadth and impressiveness. I’m awed by the Urraca wines as a whole and equally excited by what they represent for Argentine wine in the US.

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Tasting The Wines of Perrier-Jouët Fleur de Champagne With Hervé Deschamps

PJWhat is it about Champagne that causes so many Americans to relegate it to celebrations? Don’t get me wrong I think it’s a perfectly fine wine to toast with. That said I think so many people are missing tremendous experiences when they don’t reach for it more often. Champagne like many other kinds of wine is made in an array of styles. And depending on what you’re going to have for dinner, lunch or brunch it's a pretty solid bet that there’s a Champagne that will match your meal. Last week I had the opportunity to taste the wines of Perrier-Jouët Fleur de Champagne alongside Hervé Deschamps, their Chef de Cave. In the history of Perrier-Jouët, which is closing in on 200 years, he is only the seventh Chef de Cave. In speaking with him about his tenure, which started in 1983, it was interesting to note what his goals are. For many Winemakers taking over where a long history exists they yearn to leave their stamp on the wines. This is a bit different in Champagne. The style and quality at Perrier-Jouët has been both high and consistent for almost 200 years. So Hervé’s goal was not to change it but rather to maintain the integrity of the house style and overall quality of the wine.

Tasting through the current Perrier-Jouët offerings it’s apparent that the goal has been met. The wines are of high quality, consistent in style, lovely, and also quite importantly, distinct from each other.

The current releases we sampled were as follows:

Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut NV – This wine which is composed of Pinot Noir (40%), Pinot Meunier (40%) and Chardonnay (20%). The non-vintage cuvee is the most widely produced and available of the Perrier-Jouët wines. For a suggested retail price of $45 it’s also their entry level offering. However the quality of this wine is anything but entry level. This is a serious Grand Brut with citrus aromas and flavors followed by flaky biscuit and brioche. It has an excellent finish and this wine is likely best suited for the widest array of cuisine in the portfolio.

Perrier-Jouët Blason Rosé NV – This Rosé is made up of Pinot Noir (40%), Pinot Meunier (30%) and Chardonnay (30%). This selection has a suggested retail price of $75. The non-vintage Rosé was one of my favorite selections in the portfolio. I enjoyed the length of its finish as well as the firm structure it showed off. If I was going to drink one of these on its own, this would likely be my choice.

Perrier-Jouët Fleur de Champagne Brut 2000 – 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier make up this vintage release. This offering has a suggested retail price of $139. I found this wine to be terrific now. Full, round mouth feel and hints of creaminess and toasted nuts on the finish are amongst the highlights. That said I expect this selection to evolve and improve for quite a few years. The best is yet to come for this wine. A solid bet to put away for a special occasion or holiday meal.

Perrier-Jouët Fleur de Champagne Rosé 2002 - This selection is a blend of Pinot Noir (55%) and Chardonnay (45%). The suggested retail price for this vintage Rosé is $349. This wine starts impressively from its brilliant pink hue. Berry flavors intertwine throughout the palate and the finish which is impressively lengthy is soft, lush and delicate at the same time that it is layered and complex. This is an absolutely brilliant selection that deserves to be both enjoyed for its beauty and contemplated for its complexity.

Perrier-Jouët Fleur de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2000 – This offering is a single vineyard selection composed exclusively of Chardonnay. The suggested retail price for this wine is $399. While I mentioned above that Hervé’s goal was to maintain the integrity and quality of the wines during his tenure, this offering is his singular mark on Perrier-Jouët. This is a selection that wasn’t produced previous to his tenure. It’s only made in exceptional vintages. I really enjoyed the nose of the offering. A hint of candied ginger and honey really come through. The palate of this wine is perhaps the gentlest and most alluring of these six wines. The finish lingers and echoes well after the last sip.

Tasting these wines side by side over several hours I went back to each of them more than once. As I mentioned I was struck not only by the quality but also by the distinction. Each of these wines stands on its own and provides a unique drinking experience. Whether you’re picking up the Non Vintage Grand Brut for everyday drinking or putting the Fleur de Champagne Rosé away for a special meal you really can’t go wrong with the wines of Perrier-Jouët. This is a classic Champagne House, 200 years into its history, that keeps on keeping on. In a world where change for the sake of change is often embraced, it’s good to see stability and consistency. Happily I can highly recommend these wines across the board.

Dinner With Winemaker Cristobal Undurraga

Terrapura_Sauvignon_Blanc_Label_mainDating back to the 1880’s the Undurraga family has played a significant role in the Chilean wine industry. As it relates to Chilean wine in the US they were the first to export here. And when Chilean wine started to find a significant home on US shelves they led the charge in brand recognition. In 2006 they sold their namesake winery, brand name and vineyard. But instead of retreating from the wine business they approached it anew. Alfonso Undurraga Mackenna great nephew of Undurraga founder Francisco started a new brand with his sons. Thus Koyle Winery was founded. I recently had the chance to sit down with winemaker Cristobal Undurraga and taste the wines he’s making with and for his family winery. The goal at Koyle Winery is two-fold. They want to show off the fact that Chile can produce small lot premium wines. And within that focus their goal is to over deliver on each release. Throughout dinner, Cristobal who is a charming speaker told us very passionately about their goals for the Koyle brand. Before tasting the Koyle wines though we tasted through the family’s value brand Terrapura.

The wines in the Terrapura range are varietal selections. With 25,000 cases of each made they’re going to be widely available on US shelves. Each of them has a suggested retail price of $9.99.

Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Carmenere are the Terrapura wines we sampled. There is also a Cabernet Sauvignon in this line. While I felt they were each well made and more than fairly priced, two stood out as favorites for me:

Terrapura – 2009 Sauvignon Blanc. This first wine of the night also turned out to be one of the favorites for both myself and others at the table. It’s loaded with lots of very fresh fruit flavors. Citrus abounds. It has tremendous acidity and a touch of creaminess on the finish. For $10 this wine is a steal.

Terrapura – 2008 Merlot. This offering has a big an alluring nose filled with rose petals and cherry aromas. Throughout the palate it features continued cherry, as well as chocolate and plum notes. The finish is beautifully dry with earth, chicory and spice. This Merlot is well balanced with good acidity. It’s tough to find a Merlot in this price category with this type of varietal character. That’s going to make this selection hard to beat.

Cristobal spoke knowledgeably about the Terrapura wines though he doesn’t make them. One of the decisions the family made when they started anew in 2006 was to operate their value and premium lines as separate wineries as opposed to different lines in the same winery. I can’t speak to what they would have tasted like if they didn’t make that decision. But I can tell you that what they decided worked very well. There are style differences in addition to qualitative differences in these wines that make them distinct.

Koyle Winery was named after a purple plant that can be found in their mountain vineyards. The wines are produced from both estate fruit and sourced grapes. The fruit they source comes from long term growers who have relationships with the Undurraga family that date back many years, assuring they get the quality they are looking for. Currently Koyle has four releases. The total case production for them stands at around 12,000. This encompasses two Cabernet Sauvignons and two Syrahs.  Each wine has a standard release ($16.99) and a “Royale” ($25.99) which is their version of a reserve offering. The 2007 vintage that we tasted is the first for the Royale wines. My impressions of these offerings follow:

Koyle_Syrah_2007_BottleKoyle - 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. This selection also has 12% Carmenere blended in.  This Cabernet has a really big and expressive nose showing lots of dark, brooding berry fruit. Berry flavors continue through the palate joined by spice and earth notes which lead to a nice finish. This wine has firm tannins. If you’re drinking it now decanting is heartily recommended.

Koyle – 2007 Syrah. 13% Carmenere is also blended in. Blueberry, plum and blackberry are all prominent in the nose of this wine. The palate has an appealing jammy feel to it. It seems to find a sweet spot that nestles itself between the very ripe offerings that often come from Australia and the more reserved old world selections. This would pair beautifully with barbecue foods.

Koyle – 2007 Royale Cabernet Sauvignon. Malbec (9%) and Carmenere (6%) are blended into this selection. I found this Cabernet to have even darker fruit than its counterpart.  It also has bigger, firmer, chewy tannins and a notably lengthy finish. This wine is nice now, but I don’t think it’s close to being at its best yet; 5 years of proper storage should help this one really evolve. It should drink well for several years after that.

Koyle – 2007 Royale Syrah. 11% Malbec and 4% Carmenere are blended into this wine. The nose of this Syrah is loaded with floral notes. Cassis, blackberry pie and copious baker’s spice emerges throughout the full bodied and rich palate. Dry fruit and espresso notes kick in on the lengthy finish. As with the Cabernet this wine will easily get better in the upcoming years under proper storage conditions.

Speaking with Cristobal throughout the evening and tasting the wines his family is producing was a noteworthy experience. His passion for wine in general and the promise of Chile in particular shines through with every word he utters. The Undurraga family has played a key role in the history of Chilean wine. It stands to reason that they will be one of the producers that causes the world to realize, on a larger scale than they currently do, that Chile stands not only for value but for premium quality as well.

Most impressive to me is that each of these wines does meet their stated goal of over-delivering on their price-points. That’s no small feat. If you drink Chilean wines, keep your eyes open for the Koyle and Terrapura wines, they’re well worth giving a shot. If you currently don’t drink much wine from Chile, this wouldn’t be a bad place to start.

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Hess Collection - 2006 19 Block Cuvée

hess 19 blockI’ve been fond of wines form Mount Veeder for many years now. But over the last year I’ve made a more concerted effort to try more of them. While I think a wide array of varietals shine up on Mt. Veeder the classic Bordeaux grapes are amongst those I feel stand out most often. Today I’m going to take a look at a selection from Hess Collection. They’re the largest winery on Mt Veeder by case production. Within their size though they do a wide variety of things; both small and large production wines are part of their portfolio. Their estate boasts 310 acres of vineyards which are sustainably farmed. Today I’ll look at one of their blends. The Hess Collection 2006 19 Block Cuvée is produced from estate fruit. The vineyard site the fruit was sourced from ranges in altitude from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. Fruit was selected from 19 blocks within the vineyard, thus the name of the wine. This selection is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (69%), Malbec (11%), Syrah (10%), Merlot (5%), Petit Verdot (3%) and Cabernet Franc (2%). Oak aging was accomplished over 18 months in French oak; 50% of the barrels were new. Just over 14,000 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $35.

Leather and cherry notes are prominent on the nose of this Mt. Veeder blend. A host of berry fruit, (particularly blackberry) along with spice, and cigar box are part of the palate. Somewhere around mind-palate, dark, rich unsweetened chocolate notes kick in. The finish is nice and lengthy with black pepper, mineral notes and cherry that keeps echoing. This wine has a firm tannic structure that softens with some air, as well as firm acidity.

This is a very well rounded wine. While this selction is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, the other varietals shine through and create a very cohesive blend that makes this offering a clear case of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts. Though this wine also includes Syrah, stylistically it drinks like a Napa Valley Bordeaux or Meritage style blend. For a suggested retail price of $35 this wine over delivers in spades. With over 14,000 cases made it should be easy to locate too.

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Soquel Vineyards - 2007 Lester Family Vineyard Pinot Noir / 2007 Saveria Vineyard Pinot Noir

svToday marks the finale for The 12 Days of Pinot Noir. That said stay tuned for some additional Pinot Noir coverage over the next few weeks sometime. Today's finale is another stop in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Soquel Vineyards. This winery was started in 1987 by Peter and Paul Bargetto along with their friend Jon Morgan. Their grandfather was one of the founders of Bargetto Winery which is of course also located in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Soquel Vineyards current production stands at around 4,500 cases per year. They focus on Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel and of course Pinot Noir. They're recently acquired a vineyard to grow some of their own fruit. This will complement what they currently source locally in the Santa Cruz Mountains as well as in Napa and the Russian River Valley of Sonoma. Today I'll look at two of their current release Pinot Noirs. First up is the Soquel Vineyards 2007 Lester Family Vineyards Pinot Noir. Included in the plantings of this sustainably farmed vineyard are 7 different clones of Pinot Noir. 65% is dedicated to Dijon clones. This offering has an alcohol content of 14.4% and a suggested retail price of $40.

Plum, cherry and berry pie spice notes, including vanilla make up the vibrant nose of this Pinot Noir. Throughout the palate red and black plum flavors play a large role along with wild strawberry and rhubarb characteristics. Sour cherry, earth and an abundance of mineral notes make up the above average finish of this wine. This 2007 releases has firm tannins and everything is framed by excellent acidity.

This is a very even and well balanced Pinot Noir. That along with the excellent overall structure and good length are the things that appeal most to me about this offering. It's tasty enough on its own but will be enhanced greatly when paired with the right foods. Lamb dishes are an obviously excellent choice to match this wine. Whether it's Grilled Lamb Chops or Lamb Souvlaki you can't go wrong.

The second selection from Soquel Vineyards is the 2007 Saveria Vineyard Pinot Noir. This vineyard is farmed by the same folks who tend to Lester Vineyard. alcohol content for this offering is a robust 15.5%. The suggested retail price for this wine is $55.

From the get go everything about the Saveria Vineyard Pinot is a bit more than the Lester. That starts with a darker black cherry hue. Baker's spice notes as well black cherry and blueberry are present in the nose of this Pinot. The palate presents a rich core of opulent fruit. Lots of cherry, blackberry and black plum are underscored by a persistent layer of racy acidity that keeps everything balanced. Cranberry, sour cherry, earth and cola notes make up the memorable finish which lingers on the tongue and back of the throat for a long while. This selection has firm tannins and very good structure.

The Saveria Vineyard Pinot Noir will match up nicely with bigger and bolder than average cuisine for a Pinot Noir. The rich flavors of Wild Boar Ragu will be balanced nicely by the expressive and flavorful fruit this wine features. I was surprised to see the alcohol at over 15%. I didnt notice it until after I'd tasted the wine. Despite that seemingly high number this selection is thankfully not hot in the least. It's got nice balance and will surely drink well for a number of years.

Both of these selection from Soquel Vineyards do a fine job of representing Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot as a whole and their specific vineyard sites as well. These are well worth making an effort to acquire.

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Coelho Winery - 2006 Paciência Pinot Noir / 2007 Paciência Pinot Noir

coelhoToday marks the second to last day for The 12 Days of Pinot Noir. The stop today is up in Oregon at a relatively new Winery. Coelho Winery was founded in 2004 by Dave & Deloinda Coelho. They’re both 2nd generation Portuguese-American and there are tie ins between the winery and their heritage. Currently they have 30 acres of their 40 acre property under vine. Pinot Noir represents 28.5 of those acres with Pinot Gris (1 acre) and Chardonnay (1/2 acre) making up the rest. Pommard and Dijon 777 represent the clones of Pinot Noir they have planted. Current production stands at about 2,500 cases per year. Approximately 50% of their fruit is sold to other producers. Today I’ll look at successive vintages of their Pinot Noir. First up is the Coelho Winery 2006 Paciência Pinot Noir. This selection is made from 100% sustainably grown, estate fruit. Barrel aging was accomplished in French oak; 15% of the barrels were new. This wine was bottle unfiltered and unfined. 1,566 cases of this vintage were produced and the suggested retail price is $35.

Ripe plum, blackberry, vanilla and hints of cedar emerge in the nose of this 2006 Pinot Noir. Throughout the palate cherry plays a large role in the flavor profile. Other flavors and notes come and go but the rich cherry is persistent and stays the course. Cinnamon, cloves, and lots of spice overall are part of the finish which also has sour cherry, black tea and cola notes. Brown sugar reference points kick in early and come back over and over throughout this Pinot as well. Firm but yielding tannins and fine acidity frame this wine.

The second wine is the Coelho Winery 2007 Paciência Pinot Noir. This wine is also made from 100% sustainably grown, estate fruit. The 2007 was barrel aged in French oak with 12% of the barrels being new. This offering was bottled unfined and unfiltered. 1,570 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $32.

Wild Strawberry, cherry, plum, mushroom, and vanilla notes fill the nose of this 2007 release. Baker’s spice, hints of molasses and abundant dried fruit notes form a full flavored but gentle palate that coats the senses while never getting very big. Cherry cola, burnt sugar and hints of caramel emerge on the above average finish.

What stands about most two me about these two wines is how distinct they are. The fruit came from the same Estate source and the oak treatment and winemaking was pretty much identical. At that point you have to attribute most of the differences in these wines to vintage variation. Tasting them side by side as a mini-vertical, which I did, is certainly fun. But well beyond that it’s instructive and really quite fascinating. The 2006 features a richer, riper, fuller palate. It’ll marry well with bigger foods than the average Pinot Noir. Braised Short Ribs would work well. The 2007 is a bit softer and more aromatic with lots of gentle fruit flavors. It’ll pair well with a many of the typical Pinot foods such as pork or mushroom based dishes. However the 2007 is right up my alley as they style of Pinot I really enjoy on its own with just my thoughts. If you have the chance though, try them both.

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Chamisal Vineyards - 2007 Edna Valley Pinot Noir / 2007 Califa Pinot Noir

chamisalToday The 12 Days of Pinot Noir goes into overtime. This was necessitated by a larger than anticipated number of tasty wines worth reporting on. The next stop is the Edna Valley. Chamisal Vineyards was the first winery that planted in Edna Valley that was back in 1973. Since that time they’ve seen a lot of changes. That included being dormant for several years, a renaming to Domaine Alfred in the early 90’s and more recently new ownership that rechristened it Chamisal Vineyards once again. Pinot Noir plays a large role in their production and today I’ll look at two of their current releases. First up is the Chamisal Vineyards 2007 Edna Valley Pinot Noir. This wine is produced using estate fruit. They have 10 clones planted, and 9 made their way into this offering. Barrel aging was accomplished over 14 months in French oak; 40% was new. 2,140 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $38.

Black cherry and underlying spice notes are the most prominent characteristics to leap from the nose of this wine. The palate is layered with intense dark fruit that never stops coming and attacking your senses; but it doesn’t stray over the top either. Firm black tea notes, plum pudding spice and dark berry fruit that continues to echo, make up the generous finish. Velvety tannins and bracing acidity mark this wines structure.

What I like about this wine is that it’s a fine example of a bigger style of the Pinot that still retains the balance and varietal character that are both so important to this grape. This offering will drink well over the next 3-5 years.

The second wine today is the Chamisal Vineyards 2007 Califa Pinot Noir. This selection is made from estate fruit and limited to clones 114, 667 and Pommard. Beyond clonal selection, standout barrels are picked for this offering. The barrels that show the most opulence as well as best representing the sense of place are the ones used for this release each year. Barrel aging was accomplished over 14 months in French oak; 60% of the barrels were new. 580 cases of this vintage were produced and the suggested retail price is $60.

Violets, black cherry, plum, blackberry and flourishes of sage fill the expressive and outgoing nose of this 2007 Pinot Noir. A rich and intense core of fruit forms the berry filled palate. Chocolate Bosco sauce notes underlie the berry pie characteristics and form a self-indulgent explosion of flavor that also has hints of licorice. Intense flavors continue through the lengthy finish which showcases this Pinots solid structure, all framed by generous acidity.

As far as Pinot goes this is a pretty big wine. It’s New World in style to be sure and packs lots of flavor and punch. If you’re drinking this selection over the next 2-3 years an hour or two in the decanter is highly recommended. Time will soften the tannins a bit and allow this wine to open up. Regardless of when you drink it though this selection is built for immediate pleasure.

Both of these Pinot Noirs are good examples of more California style Pinot Noir. They retain varietal character and aren’t overblown, but they do tend towards the bigger style of Pinot. If that’s up your alley each of these would be fine additions to your cellar.

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Adelsheim Vineyard - 2007 Elizabeth's Reserve Pinot Noir / 2007 Bryan Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir

07ER_FrontThe 12 Days of Pinot Noir continues to tour the Willamette Valley in Oregon. Today’s stop is at Adelsheim Vineyard. They’re one of those stalwart Oregon producers that for many lovers of Pinot Noir were likely an early introduction to the sorts of wine the state can produce. Several of their offerings are widely available; inclusing a Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay with Willamette Valley designations that come in at friendly prices for folks seeking an entry point into Oregon wine. Adelsheim Vineyard has a history that dates back over 35 years. They currently have over 170 acres under vine. Today however I’ll look at a couple of their smaller release wines. First up is the Adelsheim 2007 Elizabeth’s Reserve Pinot Noir. Each year this reserve style wine is produced using what the winery considers the best barrels of wine from the highest quality lots. For the 2007 vintage lots from 8 vineyards were used to create this offering. Barrel aging was accomplished over 10 months in French oak; 30% of the barrels were new. 1,192 cases of this selection were produced in 2007 and the suggested retail price is $48.

Vanilla bean notes underscore cherry, strawberry and raspberry characteristics in the fresh nose of this wine. Continued strawberry and cherry along with cinnamon dominate the very even keeled palate. Light hints of plum, cedar, white pepper and flourishes of sour cherry emerge in the finish. This reserve Pinot Noir has very good structure and firm acidity.

This balanced and somewhat gentle expression of Pinot Noir is lush and layered with lots of flavor in its subtle undercurrent. This is a classic example of a cuvee style offering from Willamette Valley. It’s delicious now but it’ll easily evolve positively for the next 6-8 years and drink well for quite a few after that. For $48 I feel this selection over delivers in complexity and its ability to age. A very solid bet and with over 1,000 cases made it shouldn’t be too hard to find.

The second selection today from Adelsheim is the 2007 Bryan Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir. This fruit is from a single vineyard situated across the road from the original Adelsheim Estate Vineyard. This parcel of land, belonging to their neighbors, was planted in 1988 and by 1998 enough of the fruit was distinct enough to be made into a designate wine. Aging occurred in French oak; 30% of the barrels were new. 280 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $68.

Red fruit along with hints of mushroom and splashes of rhubarb make up the nose of this 2007 single vineyard Pinot Noir. Throughout the palate sumtupuous layer after sumptuous later of wild strawberry is joined by nutmeg, clove and white pepper. Terrific mineral and earth character emerges in the finish which is prodigious in length and structure. Excellent acidity frames this offering which has firm tannins.

The 2007 Bryan Creek Pinot Noir is a wonderful, singular expression of Pinot Noir. It features tremendous purity of fruit and has textbook varietal characteristics in spades. As with the Elizabeth’s reserve this Pinot has a long life ahead of it. It’ll improve for 5-6 years and drink well for 5 after that. This small production wine was just released as a wine club offering and can be purchased directly from Adelsheim Vineyard.

Side by side these Pinot Noirs provide an intersting snapshot into what Adelsheim Vineyard was doing in 2007. One represting the best fruit from throughout their vineyard, the other a specific look at one spot and what type of Pinot it produced in 2007.

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Cristom Vineyards - 2007 Mt. Jefferson Cuvee Pinot Noir / 2006 Sommers Reserve Pinot Noir / 2006 Marjorie Vineyard Pinot Noir

marjorieAs The 12 Days of Pinot Noir starts heading into the home stretch it’s back to Willamette Valley in Oregon. Cristom Vineyards is the subject today. This producer has 65 acres under vine; within that are 7 distinct vineyard sites. Founder Paul Gerrie is an engineer and he has a winemaker, Steve Doerner, who is a biochemist. Together they started with a scientific approach, their ultimate goal being to make terroir driven wines. Today I’ll look at three of their Pinot Noirs. First up is Cristom Vineyards 2007 Mt. Jefferson Cuvee Pinot Noir. This cuvee style offering is made from fruit sourced at 13 different Willamette Valley vineyards. Four of those are Cristom estate vineyards. They have produced this selection since the 1994 vintage. Barrel aging was accomplished over eleven months in French oak; 8% of the barrels were new. 5,161 cases of this vintage were produced and the suggested retail price is $30.

Raspberry cinnamon and vanilla form a lovely trio of scents that emerge from this 2007 Pinot Noir. Throughout the palate red fruit such as cherry, raspberry and cranberry are prominent and provide the core flavors with a wave of black cherry underlying things. Earth, chicory, flint and hints of graphite are all part of the finish which is medium in length. This has good overall structure and nice acidity.

For a suggested retail of $30 this wine is a good value. With over 5,000 cases it shouldn’t be difficult to find either. This cuvee is a good primer into Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. It’ll drink well for several years. If you choose to open it now I suggest a solid hour in the decanter to get the best out of it. Once it opens up this is a lovely wine.

The second selection is the Cristom Vineyards 2006 Sommers Reserve Pinot Noir. This selection is produced primarily from fruit sourced at four of their estate vineyards as well as some purchased fruit. In total 15 vineyard sites contributed fruit to this cuvee. Barrel aging was accomplished over seventeen months in French oak; 44% was new. 2,734 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $41.

Strawberry, violets, and hints of sage emerge from the nose of this reserve style cuvee. Black currant, cherry, wild strawberry, star anise and touches of orange zest form the rich palate of this Pinot Noir. Hints of sour cherry emerge in the solid finish along with cinnamon, mocha, berry compote, and pie crust notes. This wine has yielding tannins and racy acidity. While this offering will pair well with a wide array of foods I think it would be particularly well matched with Turkish food; mixed grills and other meats will work fantastically.

As with the Mt. Jefferson cuvee the Sommers Reserve will show at its best now if you take the time to decant it. This is a really solid Pinot Noir, a notch up in complexity and length from the Mt. Jefferson and an equally good value in its price category.

The final wine from Cristom today is the 2006 Marjorie Vineyard Pinot Noir. As the name indicates this is a single vineyard selection. This vineyard was planted in 1982. Barrel aging occurred over 18 months in French oak; 64% of the barrels were new. 752 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $60.

A horn ‘o’ plenty of dark berry aromas as well as hints of lavender, violets and cinnamon make up the expressive nose of this Pinot. The palate is incredibly layered with berry fruit, minerals and spice notes coming in wave after wave of flavor. Black tea and copious earth notes emerge on what is a notably lengthy finish. The overall structure and acidity this wine shows are impressive as well. While this Pinot will match well with food I liked it quite a bit on its own. A good choice to share with friends and drink while you contemplate the mysteries of life. Decanting this wine is also highly recommended

Each of these selections from Cristom Vineyards is well made and delicious. However the 2006 Marjorie Vineyard is the most remarkable of the three. This wine is loaded with striking flavors and layers of complexity that build to a tremendous finish. I expect this wine to improve over the next 2-3 years and drink well for 4-5 after that. This would be an excellent choice to sock away for a special occasion.

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Domaine Serene - 2007 Yamhill Cuvée Pinot Noir / 2006 Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir

DS ERThe 12 Days of Pinot Noir heads back to the Willamette Valley in Oregon. When I visited, a few years back, both the wines and the setting at Domaine Serene were impressive. The Estate itself was easily one of the most beautiful settings I visited tasting wine in Oregon. Domaine Serene is dedicated to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with 150 acres under vine and planted to those two varietals. They also produce Syrah & Viognier under the “Roadblock” label from sourced fruit. Today I’ll take a look at two of their current release Pinot Noirs. First up is the Domaine Serene 2007 Yamhill Cuvée Pinot Noir. This offering is produced from fruit primarily sourced at two estate vineyard sites in Eola Hills and Dundee Hills. Three clones of Pinot are included (Pommard, Dijon & Wadenswil). Barrel aging was accomplished over 10 months in French oak; 43% of the barrels were new. The suggested retail price for this offering is $42.

Lavender, violets and red cherry aromas highlight the expressive nose of this 2007 Pinot Noir. Throughout the palate cranberry plays a large role supported by rhubarb and raspberry. The flavors throughout the palate are gentle, full flavored and layered. Loads of spice note are present and emerge as the wine opens up in the glass; vanilla and light nutmeg are particularly noteworthy. Black pepper, mineral elements and moderate cola notes all emerge on the lengthy finish. This Pinot has excellent acidity.

The second wine up is the Domaine Serene 2006 Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir. The fruit for this release is sourced from estate vineyards in the Eola Hills (59%) and Dundee Hills (41%). Barrel aging was accomplished over 15 months in French oak; 48% of the barrels were new. The suggested retail price for this release is $58.

The nose of the Evenstad Reserve gives off hints of candied cherry as well as charred wood reference points. Throughout the full flavored palate there is a persistent core of rich fruit; cherry, blackberry and strawberry are prominent. These form a berry pie component that’s complemented by plum pudding spice notes and sweet dark chocolate. Black tea and cherry cola characteristics underwritten by vanilla bean are each part of the excellent, lingering and quite noteworthy finish. This Pinot has excellent structure and terrific racy acidity.

I found that each of these Pinot’s is terrific in its own right. What they have in common is that they are well made and true to their varietal. The Evenstad is a bit richer and fuller where the Yanhill Cuvée is a touch gentler in style and approach. I’d be happy to have either on my table at any time and each should drink well for approximately 6-8 years. If you're drinking now, decanting will benefit both of these, the Evenstad a bit more dramatically. A nice job by Domaine Serene on these wines. Definitely a producer to look up if you visit Willamette Valley.

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