2010 New York Wine Expo Is Around The Corner

The 3rd annual NY Wine Expo is coming next month. I've attended the first two and found it to be a large scale wine event worth attending for wine lovers. Read my review of the 2009 edition here, and 2008 here. Readers of this site can save $10 on either Friday or Saturday tickets by using the code: GABESVIEW. Specific event details follow:

The 3rd Annual New York Wine Expo is February 26 through 28 at the Jacob Javits Center. In all, the Grand Tasting offers attendees a chance to sample more than 600 wines from over 170 winemakers from around the globe. Seminar presenters include Gloria Maroti Frazee, who oversees Wine Spectator School, and Leslie Sbrocco an award-winning author, and Founder of “Thirsty Girl” a brand new multi-media company focused on wine, food and travel.

New York Wine Expo Hours Friday, February 26, 6:00 – 10:00 PM; $75, prior to Feb. 19 Saturday, February 27, 2:00 – 6:00 PM   $85, prior to Feb. 19 (Sunday is for trade professionals only)   Go to www.NewYorkWineExpo.com for tickets and additional information or call 800-544-1660.

Urraca - 2007 Familia Langley Reserva

It was just about a year ago that I first tasted the offerings from Argentine producer Urraca Wines. Since then I’ve gone back to them several times and been impressed each time with their overall portfolio. Their wines hit a different segment of the Argentine wine imports than most. Within the vast number of wines from Argentina, the majority on US shelves are value based. Some of those values are outstanding and provide quality and some are generic. What Urraca does from the get go is to aim higher. They start at a premium level and then also make super-premium offerings. So while the least expensive wine you’re going to find from them is in the mid to high teens, there is value to be had. Today I’m going to look at the current release of their flagship wine. This wine is certainly within the super-premium category. The question is does it still deliver value, or even a bargain, in its price point.

The Urraca 2007 Familia Langley Reserva is made using fruit from the Mendoza region of Argentina. The proprietary blend is composed of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Malbec (30%), and Merlot (30%). Barrel aging was accomplished over 18 months in a combination of French and American oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is approximately $70.

A potpourri of dark berry aromas lead the exuberant nose of this 2007 blend. Blackberry and cherry (both red and black) intermingle along with lots of white pepper and hints of nutmeg throughout the palate of this selection. This wine has serious length. The impressive finish is marked my minerals, earth, black pepper and a hints of charcoal. This wine has firm tannins that soften in the glass. Excellent acidity provides the framework and keeps everything in check.

There are three things which I find equally impressive about this wine. First and quite importantly is its consistency. I was blown away by the 2005 version of this wine and was quite curious to see how the 2007 edition would stack up. Nothing to worry about there, the 2007 is every bit as impressive. The second thing that struck me is the tremendous level of even-keeled intensity that this wine displays from the first sip through the long finish. There are a lot of wines that hit you up front with big fruit and then the flavor drops as if it fell from a cliff. While this wine has little peaks and valleys, it manages to maintain a notable level of complex, layered and concentrated flavors throughout. The third thing that impresses me is the finish on the Familia Langley, which is noteworthy in length.

If you’re going to drink this wine in the short term, decanting for an hour or two is strongly recommended. However if you’re patient and can lay it down for a few years, you will be rewarded by a wine that will show plenty of positive evolution. Yes this wine is $70, and yes for that money it’s still, very much, an excellent value. It compares favorably to many blends from a number of regions of the world that hit the triple digit price point.

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Cinnabar Winery - 2007 Paso Robles Merlot

Merlot is easily one of the most maligned varietals of the last decade. The film Sideways did little to help its cause. But in my opinion what hurt Merlot’s reputation more was the sea of insipid examples out there. For every excellent Merlot there’s one that’s sweet, flabby and worst of all innocuous. There’s nothing more discouraging than drinking a wine and being unable to distinguish what varietal it is. Thankfully though, along with the solid examples that have always been out there, the tide seems to have shifted a bit. More and more of the Merlot’s I’ve tasted, in a wide array of price categories, from all over the world, actually taste like what they are. Today I’ll look at an example from Cinnabar Winery. The Cinnabar Winery 2007 Merlot I made from fruit sourced in two sections of Paso Robles. 95% of the wine is Merlot with 5% Petit Verdot blended in as well. Barrel aging was accomplished over 16 months in a combination of American and Hungarian oak; 15% were new. The suggested retail price for this wine is $21.

Dark fruit aromas with an undercurrent of jam fill the inviting nose of this Paso Robles Merlot. Blackberry pie, cherry and plum pudding spice notes are the most prominent parts of the full flavored palate. Chocolate notes as well as hints of graham cracker emerge on the finish which has yielding tannins, good length and a velvety mouth feel. Solid acidity keeps everything in check.

I like this Merlot a lot for a couple of reasons. Most importantly it’s true to the varietal. Secondly it’s a fine example of Paso Robles wine. The combination of fruit from two distinct areas in Paso helps keeps things balanced and provides for a style that shows both the big fruit that Paso is known for as well as the proportion that can be achieved. A nice value.

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A Vertical Tasting of Swanson Vineyards Salon Chardonnay, Vintages 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008

Once upon a time I was ready to give up on New World Chardonnay. More than anything though it was really California Chardonnay I’d grown weary of. So many of the wines I tasted were overburdened with oak to the point of blunting the fruit. The litany of jokes made in tasting rooms and elsewhere about these wines could easily fill a book. I’m not sure anyone is printing joke books these days. If they were though there’s lots of material. It got to the point where I found it tiresome to even try new Chardonnays. Many of them, were high scored, and well regarded, yet there was a seeming avalanche of sawdust in my mouth. So I drank mostly Chablis, when I had the chance, and when I felt adventurous I’d try one from California. Then one incredibly fateful day I made my first visit to Swanson Vineyards Salon in Napa Valley. While I liked the first wine they poured Rosato, I was dubious when then Salonnier Shawn Larue said the next wine was Chardonnay. I must have made a face because Shawn assured me that what I was about to taste was not a typical over oaked wine that was in fashion for many years. I thanked him for mentioning it but inside I thought “we’ll see about that.” From the first sip the Swanson Chardonnay was nothing short of a revelation. The fruit starred gloriously and there was complexity to spare. “That’s amazing,” were the first words I recall uttering after the very first sips I ever took of Swanson Chardonnay. More than anything it reminded me of a fine Chablis. I  Joined their wine club soon after in large part so I could have guaranteed access to the Chardonnay. It’s only made in small quantities and if there’s any left after the wine club gets their allotment you can get some through the Salon. I wasn’t taking that chance. I’ve come to love the Swanson portfolio of wines in general. The Chardonnay though, for my money, there isn’t a finer one in Napa Valley.

I was recently going through my cellar and realized I had four vintages of the Chardonnay on hand. It was obvious that the only thing to do was invite some friends over for a vertical tasting. What follows are some of my impressions about these wines and how they’re currently tasting.

The Swanson Chardonnay is available through the Salon in Rutherford. The suggested retail price for the current vintage (2008) is $36.

Swanson Vineyards 2005 Salon Chardonnay – This wine has changed remarkably in the time since it was released. Much of the fruit has dropped off at this point. The spice and mineral elements which were always present have pushed to the fore front. This now lean, mineral laden wine turned out to be the favorite of most during the vertical tasting. A nice showcase for the potential longevity of well made, balanced, white wines.

Swanson Vineyards 2006 Salon Chardonnay – This wine is definitely transitioning at this time. The spice component is present as are hints of minerals. However they’re not as prominent as on the 2005. There is more fruit present right now. I’ll be curious to see how it develops further over the next year and if it gets to the second life the 2005 is currently enjoying.

Swanson Vineyards 2007 Salon Chardonnay – Of the four vintages this is probably the one drinking at closest to its peak efficacy right now. It’s all about personal taste of course but the 2007 still now has all the glorious fruit this Chardonnay features in its youth. There’s plenty of complexity as well with spice, mineral notes and the great length this wine traditionally features. An excellent vintage of a very consistent wine in its peak drinking window.

Swanson Vineyards 2008 Salon Chardonnay – This is the current vintage of this wine, released this past August. Not surprisingly this vintage currently has the biggest fruit of the bunch. Gentle hints of butter are present along with the classic spice elements. Mineral notes are just starting to eek out of this wine and I suspect they’ll become much more prominent over time. While it’s delicious now, history tells me that to my taste I’m going to like this wine even more in about 5-6 months.

Vertical tastings can be fascinating and instructive. This one was no different. While everyone had their favorites, for a variety of reasons, there was some consensus. Regardless of how much the older vintages have evolved, the house style, we agreed was evident throughout. While age and of course vintage variation play a strong role, the consistent quality of the Swanson Salon Chardonnay from year to year was on display.

So the moral of the story here is two-fold. First of all if you like a varietal, don’t give up on it if you run across some examples you don’t like. You may eventually find one you love. The tide may also shift as it has with California Chardonnay. Of course the oak laden butter bombs are still out there. Thankfully though there are less then of them than before. The other part of the story? If you like excellent Chardonnay, that has fruit, complexity, and a good bit of longevity, do what you have to and get your hands on a bottle of Swanson Salon Chardonnay.

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Veramonte - 2008 Ritual Pinot Noir

There’s something about Pinot Noir that can be downright inspirational when it’s made right. When the fruit is allowed to shine and enhanced rather than burdened by oak and its purely Pinot it can be quite magical. At least I know that’s how I feel about Pinot. While I rarely turn down the opportunity to sample one, my expectations are tempered with the knowledge that it takes a lot to impress my palate when it comes to this grape. Today I’m going to look at a brand new release from Veramonte in Chile. Their varietal wines, particularly the Sauvignon Blanc have been consistent values and Primus, their proprietary blend is often a category stand out. The Veramonte 2008 Ritual Pinot Noir is produced using fruit sourced in the Casablanca Valley of Chile. This selection is 100% Pinot Noir. Barrel aging occurred over 12 months in exclusively French oak; 40% of the barrels were new. Highly regarded winemaker Paul Hobbs was a consultant on this project. The suggested retail price for this wine is $17.99.

Ripe wild strawberry, cherry, and fleshy plum aromas waft enticingly from the nose of this South American Pinot Noir. These are joined by hints of rhubarb. Black cherry and strawberry flavors intermingle throughout the gentle but full flavored palate of this wine. A terrific spice component kicks in around mid-palate and continues through the finish which features hints of cocoa, light cherry cola, white pepper, mushroom and emerging earth notes. This wine has silky tannins, excellent acidity and terrific length. It drinks marvelously on its own and will also pair with a wide array of foods. Roast Pork Loin and Mushroom Risotto are the first to spring to mind.

As I mentioned I think good Pinot Noir can be tricky to find. That’s particularly true in the under $20 category. That said, Ritual from Veramonte is one of the best under $20 Pinot’s I’ve had in ages. The price says $17.99 but when you taste it you’ll find it compares favorably to many Pinots in the $30 price range. If you’re a Pinot Noir fan, this is worth making a special effort to seek out.

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Paul Dolan Vineyards - 2006 Deep Red

Over the last year or two I’ve had more and more wines from Mendocino County in California. And I have to say that I’m finding quite a few that I enjoy. So when the opportunity presents itself to taste one I haven’t had before I jump at the chance. Such was the case with this blend from Paul Dolan Vineyards. This Mendocino producer farms organically and biodynamically. Those two things also up the appeal for me. The 2006 Paul Dolan Vineyards Deep Red is made from 100% Estate fruit and entirely sourced at their Dark Horse Farms Vineyard. This offering is a blend of Syrah (56%), Petite Sirah (31%), and Grenache (12%). 770 cases of this vintage were produced and the suggested retail price is $45.

The color of this wine is immediately striking. Its hue is as black as night in the glass. Taking the first whiff dark fruit aromas such as plum and blueberry emerge and are immediately underscored by red fruit notes. The palate is layered with intense and intermingling fruit flavors. Both bright and dark flavors are prominent as the Syrah and Petite Sirah that dominate this blend tussle for control of your taste buds; black cherry, blackberry and raspberry are of particular note. Black pepper notes kick in mid-palate and lead to the finish which shows dark chocolate dipped raspberry, earth, minerals and espresso bean notes. That finish has very nice length. This wine is well balanced and has excellent acidity.

Despite alcohol clocking in at well over 15% this wine doesn’t drink hot in the least. I’m a sucker for Petite Sirah in general and the 31% in this offering makes it intense and brooding presence known. If you’re going to drink this wine over the next year or so I’d recommend decanting for at least an hour. If on the other hand you have patience, which I rarely do with Petite Sirah, feel free to cellar this for the next 5-8 years and watch it develop as the earthy characteristics take greater hold. This is a terrific wine.

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Cristom Vineyards - 2007 Estate Pinot Gris

A few months back I was impressed with a trio of Pinot Noirs I tasted from Cristom Vineyards in Willamette Valley. So I’ve been eager to see what else they’re doing. The most prevalent white varietal in that part of Oregon tends to be Pinot Gris. Today I’ll look at the current release Pinot Gris from Cristom Vineyards. The Cristom Vineyards 2007 Estate Pinot Gris is produced using fruit entirely sourced at their own 5 acre Emilia vineyard which was planted in 1993. This offering was fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks. 1,420 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $16.

Lychee fruit and pineapple aromas lead the expressive and lively nose of this Pinot Gris.  Apricot, mango, orange blossom and temperate wisps of vanilla make up the full flavored and gentle palate of this wine. Ginger, nutmeg, cloves and hazelnut notes emerge on the lingering, honeyed finish. Mineral notes provide a final crisp characteristic.

When I travelled to Willamette Valley a couple of years ago I was on a mission to taste lots of tremendous Pinot Noir. That was the expected and achieved. What I didn’t consciously consider before my trip was the amount of world class Pinot Gris I would encounter. Since Pinot Noir gets all the press, the Gris is sort of the hidden treasure of Willamette Valley. After a few days I realized that there were a lot of excellent examples of Pinot Gris too. It became an altered mission. This 2007 selection from Cristom Vineyards is quite indicative of the lovely white wines I found there. It’s refreshing and beckons you back to the glass for more. For $16 if you don’t want to think about it much further you don’t have to. But if you do, this wine has good complexity and rewards sipping and contemplation.

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Been Doon So Long A Randall Grahm Vinthology

Every business, sport, and industry has game changers. These are folks who either set the bar at a new level in their vocation or innovate so many changes that they influence what comes after them. In the world of wine, Randall Grahm is such a person. Whether it’s his pioneering affection for Rhone varietals and the like long before others in CA truly embraced them or his decision to switch to screw caps earlier in the game than most, he’s been a game changer. And now he’s got a book. Been Doon So Long A Randall Grahm Vinthology is first and foremost an excellent and entertaining read. But it’s more than that too. I think it’s appropriate that the size and shape of the book most closely resembles a textbook. Because, the truth is that just about anyone reading Been Doon So Long is going to learn a lot; about Randall, about wine and probably about themselves too.

Whether it’s the detailed discussion of the evolution of Bonny Doon labels, Randall’s, poetry, song lyrics, His essay about Syrah or various other topics Been Doon So Long, is wildly entertaining. It’s unlikely that any other book will teach as much about the world of wine, especially as it relates to California as this one. You could read it straight through, but there’s no real need to do that. I went back and forth reading the things that appealed to me most in the order that struck me. Pretty quickly I realized I needed to read the whole thing. It’s hard to put down, but if you do it’s easy to pick back up and jump into again.

If you’re going to read a wine book, anytime soon, there’s no question this is the one. Anyone with even a passing interest in the history of California wine over the last couple of decades should read this. In fact this book should be part of the curriculum for anyone looking to get into the wine industry. In case it’s not clear, by now, I love this book. At the very least I guarantee it’ll put a big grin on your face.

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Bonny Doon Vineyard - 2005 Le Cigare Volant

Blended wines can be particularly interesting. This is especially true in the case of a wine like Bonny Doon Vineyard’s Le Cigare Volant. This wine which was first made in 1984 is produced vintage after vintage with a concept in mind. Randall Grahm works each year for a style and uses the lots of fruit and blend that he feels best achieve his goal. Today I’ll look at the current release. The Bonny Doon Vineyard 2005 Le Cigare Volant is made from fruit sourced at a variety of long-term growers. This vintage is a blend of Grenache (50%), Mourvèdre (24%), Syrah (22%), Carignane (3%), and Cinsault (1%). This wine is bottled unfiltered and finished in screw cap. 1,615 cases of the 2005 vintage were produced and the suggested retail price is $30.

A floral component, led by violets, fills the nose of Le Cigar Volant. That’s joined by earth, hints of vanilla, jasmine and red plum as well. Blueberry, dark plum and subtle but present blackberry are at the core of the lush, full flavored palate of this wine. Spice notes are prominent throughout, with nutmeg, star anise and cardamom of particular note. Savory notes kick in and lead the finish along with increasing spice and flourishes of sour cherry, and earth. The finish is generous in length and impressively layered with subtlety. Medium tannins and excellent acidity balance things out nicely. This wine will pair well with something as casual as a gyro or more complex as Coq au Vin.

Le Cigare Volant is the signature wine of Bonny Doon Vineyards. The label says California, but the flavors are Old World indeed. From the modest 13.5% alcohol, to the impeccable balance this wine is stylistically, spiritually, and by intent a nod to classic French wines of the Southern Rhone, more than modern Southern Rhone offerings.  I’ve had this wine more than any other Bonny Doon selections over the years. While it’s certainly been pretty consistent there are always variations. The 2005 is amongst the best versions. If you drink it over the next 3-5 years you’re going to want to decant it. An hour is fine, but two hours is even better. That time really allows this selection to open up and expose its charms, which are many. Sip after sip Le Cigare Volant demands you come back to the glass for more. Pretty soon the bottle is going to be gone and you’ll wish you decanted a couple. If you’re familiar with this wine, 2005 is a benchmark vintage that will age for the long haul. If somehow you’ve never had this classic California offering from Randall Grahm, this vintage is a great place to start. If I could only use one word to describe this wine, that word would be character. Le Cigare Volant 2005 is loaded with it.

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Bonny Doon Vineyard - 2008 Ca’ Del Solo Estate Vineyard Albariño

Bonny Doon Vineyard has been cranking out interesting wines for many years now. The blends are often idiosyncratic and unique. The varietal wines are also singular in style. A few years back Randall Grahm sold off the Big House wines that are ubiquitous on store shelves and he re-focused on smaller productions. Even in those Big House blends, that were made in large quantities, I was always impressed with how much character Randall achieved in a $10 bottle of wine. Over the next few days I’m going to take a look at a couple of his current Bonny Doon releases as well as his book. Today I’m going to take a peek at his 2008 Albariño The Bonny Doon 2008 Albariño is made from fruit sourced at the Ca’ Del Solo Estate Vineyard located in Monterey County. In addition to Albariño (75%), Loureiro (21%), and Treixadura (4%) are also blended in. This vineyard is bio-dynamically farmed. 2,500 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $20.

White peach and lemon aromas fill the nose of this wine. Lemon zest, grapefruit, honeysuckle, apricot and peach are each part of the palate of this Albariño and they’re underscored by an herbal flourish. Light touches of granny smith apple and mineral notes emerge on the finish, which has nice length, and is marked by its clean, crisp nature. This wine has terrific acidity and will pair well with light dishes. I tasted it alongside some Manchego cheese and found it to be an excellent pairing.

What has impressed my about Randall’s wines over the years is the sense of place they exhibit and their overall singularity from wine to wine. This 2008 Albariño is no exception. I remember the first Albariño I had a number of years back and being taken by how distinct the varietal tasted. I’m thrilled to find that this wine is true in spirit to excellent Spanish Albariños. This wine does a fantastic job of combining that sense of place, varietal correctness and simply being a delicious and distinct wine, recognizable for what it should be; wonderful fruit flavors, tied to their place of origin.

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Cameron Hughes - Lot 117, 2007 Santa Barbara County Grencache Blanc/Viognier

This year I’ve looked at several wines from négociant Cameron Hughes. For anyone unfamiliar with the term, a négociant works as follows. He or she purchases grapes or juice from other growers and sells them under his or her, own label. Cameron Hughes is a California based négociant. And while that is his base of operations, he sources lots of wine from numerous regions, the world over.  Most often a well regarded winery or grower might be selling a finished product which Cameron Hughes Wine bottles or packages. Sometimes they take separate sources and blend them to come up with a unique and perhaps better wine. The goal in each case is to offer a superior product for significantly less than it would cost if it had the original producer or growers name. I’ve been impressed with the across the board quality of the previous Cameron Hughes wines I’ve had. Today I’ll look at a white blend. Cameron Hughes Lot 117 is a 2007 with its origins in Santa Barbara County. This selection is a blend of Grenache Blanc (54%) and Viognier (46%). 300 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $12.

Orange blossom, apricot, mango and vanilla aromas burst forth from the demonstrative nose of this Grenche Blanc/Viognier blend. White peach, honey notes and continued apricot are all part of the palate. Lighter almond and hazelnut characteristics are present as well. Chamomile tea leads the lingering finish. The very impressive close also shows loads of mineral and spice notes. This wine is perfectly dry with crisp acidity.

For $12 you won’t mind opening this wine casually and sipping it on its own or with a quick meal. That’s fine and good, but this is also a serious wine with lots of complexity and charm. It’ll pair beautifully with lighter foods. This is another terrific deal from Cameron Hughes.

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Marchesi de Frescobaldi - 2006 Nipozzano Chianti Rùfina DOCG Riserva

Sometimes a single word evokes a myriad of thoughts and images. In this case that word is Chianti. Most wine drinkers recognize this as an Italian wine. But depending on how deeply immersed in wine one is, not everyone also realizes that’s it’s a region in Italy. Just about everything in European wine is based on area of origination. That includes what grapes can go into local wines. In Chianti of course as with numerous other areas of Italy, Sangiovese is the predominant grape. Marchesi de Frescobaldi has been producing wine in Italy for thirty generations. Their range of offerings vary from entry level selections (such as Remole for $10) that are appropriate for everyday drinking to higher end Brunellos and the like suitable for aging, collecting and most importantly fine drinking. Today I’ll look at the current release of the Nipozzano Riserva, one of their most recognizable, affordable and widely available wines. The Marchesi de Frescobaldi Nipozzano Chianti Rùfina DOCG Riserva 2006 was produced using fruit sourced at their Castello di Nipozzano estate vineyard. In addition to Sangiovese (90%), this wine includes Malvasia Nera, Colorino, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in small quantities. Oak aging was accomplished over 24 months in Barrique. This wine also underwent 3 months of bottle aging prior to release. The suggested retail price for this wine is $22.99.

This 2006 Chianti has a striking deep red hue that leans ever so slightly towards purple. Cherry and leather aromas lead the nose along with floral elements. Cherry notes, both red and black continue their role as they are the focus of this wines palate. Dark plum notes are present as well. All of these flavors are underscored by a wave of gentle spice characteristics (vanilla, white pepper, nutmeg among others) that kick in around mid-palate and continue on to the long, lingering and pleasing finish. Sour cherry is a significant component on the finish along with a subtle hint of earth and Kalamata olive, as well as black pepper. This Chianti has firm but yielding tannins and crisp acidity. Wine is best when partnered with food. Italian wines tend to lean heavily in that direction. The Nipozzano Riserva 2006 is no exception. It’ll pair well with a wide array of foods. Strong cheeses, roasted meats or a dish of pasta with red sauce are a few obvious sure fire bets.

This wine is pretty accessible right out of the bottle. But I still highly recommend letting this Chianti breathe if you have the time. An hour in the decanter will prove to be a revelation. It allows this wine to fully open up and expose all its many charms. Delicious now, this wine will evolve over the next 7-8 years (at minimum) and drink well for several after that. For around $20 this is an affordable wine most can drink on a regular basis. The price is also reasonable enough to stash away a case for aging. You could check on a bottle every year or so, make your own notes and watch it age and evolve. This is a terrific way to learn about wine, and more importantly perhaps your own palate.

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Valentin Bianchi - 2008 Elsa Chardonnay / 2008 Elsa Malbec / 2008 Elsa Cabernet Sauvignon

It’s good to have some go to things in life. When it comes to wine there are some producers that I look to for a variety of reasons. Sometimes it’s simply quality. Other times it’s value and availability. Valentin Bianchi from Argentina scores for me on all three counts and then some. They have several tiers of wine, all of which are interesting and fairly priced for what they provide. And their wines are available across the country in a wide variety of retailers. Today I’m going to look at three wines I enjoyed in their lowest priced tier. The Elsa wines are named after the wife of their founder, who is also the Grandmother of the current owners. The vineyards surround the house she lived in. First up is the Valentin Bianchi 2008 Elsa Chardonnay. This selection is produced using estate fruit from San Rafael Mendoza vineyards. In addition to Chardonnay (90%), Semillon (10%) is also blended in. During fermentation in stainless steel, French oak staves were used to add complexity. 2,000 cases of this wine were imported and the suggested retail price is $8.99.

Pineapple, Meyer lemon and white peach aromas burst forth from the evocative nose of this Chardonnay. Mango, guava and lots of golden delicious apple notes are all part of the fresh and appealing palate. Apple pie crust, lemon custard, vanilla and speckles of white pepper make up the medium length finish of this Chardonnay. Good acidity balances things out.

What I like about this Chardonnay is that it puts its best fruit forward. This is a fresh, lively wine meant to enjoy in its youth. While the small amount of oak used added some complexity it doesn’t detract from what is a very fruit driven offering.

The second wine is the Valentin Bianchi 2008 Elsa Malbec. Fruit for this offering was sourced at the same Estate vineyard in Mendoza as the Chardonnay. This selection is 100% Malbec. This wine saw minimal oak aging. 15,000 cases of this wine were imported and the suggested retail price is $8.99.

Plum, blueberry, vanilla and floral notes are all part of the slightly jam influenced nose of this Malbec. The palate also shows some jam fruit characteristics with red and black berry fruit intertwining. Black raspberry, blackberry and strawberry are of particular note. A layer of vanilla underpins these along with touches of orange peel. Kalamata olive, touches of smoke, and white pepper highlight the medium length finish. This Malbec has sufficient acidity.

Giving this wine 30 minutes of air really helps it open up and allows its flavors to pop. I like the consistency this wine has shown from vintage to vintage. This is a great starter Malbec and an affordable one for everyday drinking.

The last wine today is the Valentin Bianchi 2008 Elsa Cabernet Sauvignon. Fruit for this wine was also sourced at the Family’s original home vineyards. This selection is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine had minimal oak aging. 10,000 cases of this 2008 vintage were imported and the suggested retail price is $8.99.

Black fruit such as raspberry, blackberry and blueberry lead the nose of this wine along with hints of vanilla and cedar. Dark, juicy berry fruit tells the story of this wines mid-palate. Black pepper and additional vanilla emerges on the finish. This wine has nice structure and good acidity.

This 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon drinks well off the bat. That said, an hour of air really exposes all of its charms. This is a fruity, fresh Cabernet meant to be drunk in it’s youth. It’ll pair well with a burger and drinks nicely on its own too.

All three of these Elsa wines represent good values. While the suggested retail price is $8.99 you can certainly find them for less if you shop around. Each of these is a solid contender for everyday drinking. They’re also good bets to pick up a case of so you always have something affordable and dependable on hand.

Flying Fish - 2008 Riesling

Washington State is probably best known for Syrah. Many of those come from Walla Walla. Columbia Valley however emerged on the national scene first and there are quite a few varietals that thrive there. Merlot, Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon are the first that come to mind. Today I'll look at a Riesling from the Wahluke Wine Company. The 2oo8 Flying Fish Riesling was produced using fruit from three regions within Columbia Valley. This offering is 100% Riesling. It was Cold fermented for 28 days. The alcohol content for this wine is a modest 12%. Flying Fish Riesling was finished in screw cap. It most often sells for right around $12.

Stone and citrus fruit aromas burt forth from the nose of this wine. They're unerscored by hints of vanilla and emerging spice notes. Peach, mango, apricot, nectarine, and guava characteristics are all apparent throughout the full-flavored palate. Spice such as white pepper and nutmeg emerge more prominently on the finish which also features copious mineral notes. This wine has crisp acidity. It'll be a natural for lighter foods and spicy Asian and Indian cuisines.

I like the balance of this wine quite a bit. It has hints of sweetness and lots of fruit character, meanwhile it's held in check by good acidity. The crisp, clean finish is also noteworthy, welcome and appealing. When you finish a sip, you're immediately going to want another. A very tasty selection and a fair value.

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Stoneleigh - 2008 Marlborough Pinot Noir

New Zealand and Pinot Noir are starting to become synonymous to wine lovers. That’s a good thing because there are a lot of lovely examples coming out of this country. For a long time their Pinot’s were second to their Sauvignon Blancs on our store shelves and in our minds. And while Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is still certainly a major player, the varietal itself (delicious as it can be) doesn’t inspire quite the same sort of passion that Pinot Noir does. Today I’ll look at an example from Stoneleigh. The Stoneleigh 2008 Marlborough Pinot Noir was produced using fruit sourced in the Rapaura area which is in the north. This offering is 100% Pinot Noir. Fermentation was achieved in a combination of open-top and closed-top fermenters Barrel aging was accomplished over a six month period in French oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is $16.

Baker’s spice notes and fresh black cherry waft convincingly from the nose of this Pinot Noir. Throughout the palate red and black cherry notes dominate, these are joined by rhubarb, raspberry and wild strawberry to form a gentle but full flavored presentation of flavor. Black tea notes lead the finish along with light cocoa, earth, cherry cola, earth and hints of nutmeg and white pepper. This wine is very well balanced and has excellent acidity.

For $16 (less if you shop around), this New Zealand Pinot Noir provides a lot of value and loads of flavor. It’s made in a style that is very true to this great varietal. It’ll pair well with food but is equally enjoyable on its own. Highly recommended.

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Bordeaux Matchmaking at Cipriani

This is a guest column. I was unable to attend this event. thankfully a friend of mine did make it and he wrote this account which I'm sharing here at Gabe's View. I look forward to attending a future event of theirs as this sounds like a lot of  fun. I hope you enjoy reading it.

-Gabe-

I stood outside of Cipriani on Wall Street waiting for my party companion. They had set up a tent in front of the entrance lined with tables, and women sitting about 3 feet from each other with lists of guests in alphabetical order.

Another woman stood at the entrance to the tent greeting older men wearing impeccably tailored tuxedos and the women in ball gowns who accompanied them. I was there for the Bordeaux Matchmaking event – an event organized with the intention of reintroducing Bordeaux wines to America as a more casual, affordable wine. Two thoughts came to mind as I watched a group of men emerge from a black Bentley – 1) I’m grossly underdressed, and 2) this crowd isn’t doing anything to positively help the bold, expensive, and unattainable image of Bordeaux wines that we’ve grown to know.

I came to find out that I was standing about 15 feet from where I should have been. Cipriani is a large restaurant with many entrances, and apparently plenty of room for more than one event. The educational wine tasting I came for turned out to be more of a dance party with plenty of great food, attractive and hip 20 – 30 somethings dancing, laughing, and of course tipping back their glasses of delicious and affordable Bordeaux wines. And by the time the saxophonist joined the DJ school was out, and Bordeaux dance party was in full swing. If this sounds atypical of a wine tasting, it is. The purpose of the event is to show that Bordeaux wines can and should be enjoyed casually is a hip, party atmosphere. The event certainly achieved this. Plus, the wines are quite good.

Among those I tasted were a Chateau de Fonbel – a red in dark, vibrant purple from the Right Bank of the region. It has hints of black currant, cassis, and according to the info on the table pencil shavings. I also tried a white, citrusy Mouton Cadet – very similar to a sauvignon blanc in its’ dryness, but also subtly sweet, a dark and bold Chateau La Bonnelle, and a sweet white from Chateau Lupiac. I detected a hint of horseradish in the nose, and again in the first couple of sips. The flavor eventually mellowed into a soft, subtle white which according to Mollie Battenhouse, wine director and advanced sommelier at Maslow 6 wine shop in Manhattan goes quite well with foie gras – a combination I will be sure to try. Battenhouse is also on EnjoyBordeaux.com as part of their Le Wine Buff video chats. All of the bottles featured were under the $35 price point – a number most people should be comfortable paying for what I found is extraordinarily great wine.

By 10:30 the wine was nearly gone, and the table hosts began packing up their stations. The party was hardly over, though as the music got louder and the crowd – at least the ones not dancing began to flock towards the bar. I took what was left in my glass and walked out onto the terrace, and gazed out the window watching the black town cars, limos, Mercedes, and Rolls Royce’s arrive in anticipation of what I came to learn was Platts Global Energy Awards dinner letting out. With my head slightly tipsy from the wines, and my stomach generously coated with the delicious hors d’oeuvres I couldn’t help but think how lucky I was to have been at this party rather than the other one.

Could they have had nearly as much fun as I did? Doubtful. I only wished I had the means to attend the remaining two events in Chicago & Miami. And with that I went back inside – this night was just beginning.

Château Larose-Trintaudon - 2004 Haut-Médoc

A lot of people I know drink New World Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with great regularity. When it comes to Old World examples many friends I know seem a bit timid. There is definitely a perception out there that French and Italian wines specifically are very expensive. And while there are certainly lots of well regarded and highly priced wines out there, both countries features many excellent wines that are affordable to wide audiences for everyday drinking. Today I’ll look at such a wine from Bordeaux. The Château Larose-Trintaudon Haut-Médoc 2004 is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot (40%). Barrel aging occurred in 100% French oak.  The suggested retail price for this wine is $17.95

Dark fruit aromas are the embodiment of this Bordeaux’s nose. These are joined by wisps of smoked meat and some toasty oak notes. Cherry leads the palate which features a persistent core of dried fruit notes. Cranberry and plum feature in notably as well. These dark, dry fruit characteristics are underscored by hints of licorice that lead to the finish. Espresso, loads of earth and black pepper notes are the most outstanding characteristics of the notable finish. This wine has firm tannins and excellent acidity.

This Bordeaux Blend from Château Larose-Trintaudon is a very nice value and a terrific wine. If you drink New World Cabernet or Merlot in the $20 price range you’re likely to find that this wine will compare favorably in quality and enjoyment. Shrewd shoppers will find that this wine is most often available right around $15. If you haven’t made the leap to the Old World yet, here’s a fine place to start.

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Clarendelle - 2006 White Bordeaux

Wines from Europe are often intimidating to the average US consumer. Sometimes it’s due to perceived cost concerns, other times it’s due to confusion over labeling. The truth is that there are a lot of great wines from all over Europe that are very reasonably priced and offer similar quality to price ratios as new world counterparts do. Today I’m going to look at a white wine from the Bordeaux region of France. This 2006 Clarendelle Blanc Bordeaux is a blend of Sémillon (46%) Sauvignon Blanc (44%), and Muscadelle (10%). The suggested retail price for this wine is $19.95.

Aromas of lemon zest and orange blossom are both prominent in the nose of this wine. Citrus continues through the palate. It's joined by tropical fruit such as mango, guava and kiwi. Honeydew emerges as well and carries through the finish which has a nice edge of creaminess and a host of appealing spice notes, notably white pepper. This wine is impeccably balanced and features good acidity. I paired this White Bordeaux with a crostini topped with caramelized onions, sautéed mushrooms and a triple creme cows milk cheese. It was a tremendously satisfying match. This wine also drinks nicely on its own.

Two things most impress me about this wine. The level of complexity in the price range is one thing. Layers of flavor emerge as you let this wine wash over you. It’s important to note that while this wine should definitely be chilled, avoid over chilling it. Many of the nuances are lost if this is served too cold. Cellar temperature of approximately 55 degrees works very well. The other thing that impressed me is how seamless of a blend this really is. Certainly benchmark qualities of each varietal shine through, but more than that they come together to form a whole that is greater than the sum of its parts. A very nice White Bordeaux and a very well priced one at that. If you’re drinking new world Sauvignon Blanc or similar style blends try the Clarendelle out, you might be surprised by what a terrific value it is.

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Introducing the Sierra de Viento Wines from Bodegas San Valero

A couple of days ago I attended a luncheon where the Sierra de Viento wines were poured. This luncheon acted as an introduction of these wines to the US market. These wines have been produced by Bodegas San Valero. This wine Cooperative in the Aragon region of Spain was founded in 1944. After a short, early period of focus on bulk wines they have been dedicated to quality for many years. Their cooperative is composed of 700 members who together control 3,500 hectares of vineyard land.  The two main wines that were being introduced were a Tempranillo and Garancha. More on them in a moment. But first a few words about some wines we got to taste that were not specifically being introduced that day. First up we tasted a Cava alongside appetizers. This Sparkling Wine was lovely and dry with hazelnut, biscuit and hints of cream on the finish. A perfect example for the argument that Sparkling Wine should regularly be consumed with meals. It's said to retail for around $9. A second Garnacha we tasted was a limited bottling that will see US shelves in a couple of months. I hope to have a detailed review of it closer to release. My first impression is that it was an intense expression of Old Vine Garancha. I believe somewhere in the neighborhood of 1,000 cases of it were produced and it's going to retail for around $30. Dessert was served with a Moscatel. This Dessert wine did an excellent job of providing balance. It was sweet for sure, but only modestly so. It paired well with sweets and was a nice ending to the meal. It was the type of dessert wine you could conceivably sip for a while. In addition to being moderate in sweetness it was also modest in alcohol. Those were the "other" wines. The stars of the show so to speak were a Tempranillo and a Garancha, 

First up was the Sierra de Viento 2008 Tempranillo. Fruit for this wine was sourced in Cariñena. It is 100% Tempranillo. This wine will retail for just under $10. What struck me most about this wine was the incredible freshness of its fruit. Ripe red berry flavors abounded and were quite appealing. The wine was balanced and had a nice finish with a hint of sour cherry. It was served with a bit of a chill on it as one would for Beaujolais or some Chianti. It worked for this wine which was a terrific match for food. 

 The second of the featured wines was the Sierra de Viento 2007 Old Vine Garnacha. Fruit for this wine was sourced from vineyards in Cariñena over 30 years old. This offering is 100% Garnacha. It was aged in French and American oak for 8 months. This wine will retail for just over $10. Where the flavors on the Tempranillo leaned towards fresh fruit those for the Old Vine Garnacha had a more intense, dried fruit characteristic. It also had loads of spice notes and lengthy finish. This wine paired beautifully with hangar steak and pork loin. In general it will match with heartier flavors than the Tempranillo. 

Both of these new Sierra de Viento releases from Bodegas San Valero represent excellent values. Approximately 40,000 cases of each was produced and once they hit US shelves they will hopefully be easy to find. I for one know that I'll be looking for them. These wines were developed with the US market in mind. I imagine they'll find quite an audience here. The Tempranillo is a departure from the flavors many consumers are used to with similarly priced wines from the Rioja region. It's fruitier and fresher where Rioja tends towards more oak laden, longer aged wines. The Garnacha is intense but not overly so and not burdened with tremendous alcohol content as some well known examples are. I look forward to these as well as the Cava, Moscatel and small production Garancha reaching our shelves. Keep your eyes open for them; you can thank me later. 

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Davis Bynum - 2007 Russian River Chardonnay / 2007 Russian River Pinot Noir

In 2007, in addition to increasing the Rodney Strong portfolio of wines under their Estate name, proprietor Tom Klein added longtime Sonoma County Winery Davis Bynum to the lineup. The history of Davis Bynum dates back to 1973. The goal then as now is to focus on Russian River Valley fruit. Today I’ll look at two of the current release Davis Bynum wines. These wines represent the first Davis Bynum releases under winemaker Gary Patzwald who was already working on some small production Rodney Strong wines. First up is the Davis Bynum 2007 Russian River Valley Chardonnay. The fruit for this wine is composed of four Chardonnay clones. This offering is 100% varietal and all Russian River Valley fruit. 75% of the wine went through malolactic. Barrel aging was accomplished over 11 months in French oak. 6,000 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $25.

Apple, spice and hints of toast waft gently from the nose of this 2007 Chardonnay. The palate features an explosive burst of pure fruit. Apple, pear, pineapple, mango and more arrive in wave after wave of lush, mouth filling flavor. Spices, mineral notes and hint of burnt caramel emerge on the lengthy finish. This wine has excellent acidity and will pair will pair well with creamy dishes, roast chicken and soft cheeses.

The second wine is the Davis Bynum 2007 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Fruit from five clones was used in crafting this wine. This offering is 100% Pinot Noir and all Russian River Valley fruit. Barrel aging occurred over 11 months in French oak. 6,500 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $35.

Black cherry, wild strawberry and vanilla cream aromas emerge prominently from the nose of this 2007 Pinot Noir. Hints of raspberry along with mushroom and continued cherry and strawberry make up the balanced palate of this wine. The finish on this wine is lengthy and smooth with gently gripping tannins and excellent acidity. As with most well made, well balanced Pinot Noir, this wine will pair beautifully with a wide array of foods.

It had been several years since I’d had any wines from Davis Bynum. For a period of time they’d been a regular Russian River stop for me. For no reason in particular they fell off of my radar a bit at some point. So I was curious and eager to see what the Davis Bynum wines tasted like today. Particularly since the winery is in a second life cycle now under the Rodney Strong umbrella. I’m happy to report that these are quality wines that do a nice job showcasing lots of fruit and varietal character. Each is also a fine example of what these Burgundian grapes can achieve in Russian River Valley. Too often, in California especially, Pinot & Chardonnay are overwhelmed with oak. Both of these offerings have their fair share of oak on them but thankfully in these wines it enhances the fruit as it should. With 6,000 or so cases of each, these selections won’t be difficult to fine. If you like Russian River Chardonnay and/or Pinot Noir, here are a couple of solid bets to consider.

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