Luce della Vite - 2007 Lucente

When it comes to red wine from Tuscany the first thing that springs to mind is Sangiovese. That Italian grape is responsible for some of the world’s very best wines. For a number of years now international varietals have of course also made a foothold there. Today I’ll look at a blend that combines the local and the international; most often these are referred to as Super Tuscans. The Luce della Vite 2007 Lucente was produced using grapes sourced in the Montalcino section of Tuscany. This blend is made up of Merlot (50%), Sangiovese (35%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (15%). Fermentation took place in stainless steel. Barrel aging was accomplished over 12 months in a combination of French and American oak; 60% of the barrels were new. 213,000 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $29.99.

Violets, dark cherry and thyme scents all emerge in the nose of this wine. Those aromas are a bit reticent at first but really come into their own as the wine opens up. So too with the palate, and about an hour in the decanter is heartily recommended to get the most from this offering. There is an absolute avalanche of dried fruit flavors present throughout the palate; both red and black reference point are included. Black pepper spice plays a role here as well and leads to the finish which shows off a terrific amount of prominent earth as well as lesser forceful espresso characteristics. Dusty cocoa notes close things out with a final flourish. This wine has excellent acidity and firm but yielding tannins.

This is a case of the Super Tuscan model working very well. The international varieties play a vital role, but never overshadow the Sangiovese, which is at the core of this wine even though it’s only 35% of the blend. At the end of the day this is a interesting wine that is both stylish and elegant in approach and overall mouth-feel. Pair this with any number of classic Italian dishes for a terrific match. Available in the mid $20’s if you shop around, this is a solid value.

Valentin Bianchi - 2009 Elsa Malbec

I’ve gone back to the wines of Valentin Bianchi relatively often. There’s a simple reason for that, I find they tend to over deliver on price and quality. There are certainly other producers who do this as well. But what impresses me with Bianchi is that they do it within each tier of their offerings. Today I’ll look at a release from the entry level Elsa tier. The Valentin Bianchi 2009 Elsa Malbec is a single vineyard offering made from fruit sourced at their Doña Elsa Estate vineyard. This selection is 100% Malbec. The Elsa Malbec was fermented in stainless steel and then saw a minimal amount of oak aging; one month of bottle aging followed prior to release. 15,000 cases of the 2009 vintage were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $8.99.

Dark berry, plum, vanilla and thyme aromas come together to form an appealing nose for this 2009 Malbec. The dark fruit theme continues in the palate where black plum flavors take center stage. Other dark fruit flavors chip in as well to a lesser degree, along with white pepper and a bit of cardamom. This Malbec has soft tannins, solid acidity and a medium length finish.

For $9, or a bit less if you shop around, the Elsa Malbec provides plenty of drinking pleasure. Year after year this is wine is a more than solid choice in entry level priced Malbec. When you’re looking for some tasty wine and a good deal to boot, keep Valentin Bianchi in mind, I do.

Cameron Hughes - Lot 145 2008 Santa Barbara Chardonnay

It’s been awhile since I looked at any wines from Cameron Hughes. This California based négociant has been knocking out solid values; particularly in his lot series. With wine sourced from the world over, the portfolio is pretty vast. Today I’ll look at a current release of Chardonnay. It’s worth noting that previous Chardonnay lots I’ve sampled have been impressive. I’m not sure if the folks over at Cameron Hughes have a particular penchant for this grape, but the ones I’ve tasted would indicate they very well might be the case. The Cameron Hughes Lot 145 2008 Santa Barbara County Chardonnay was made for them by a custom crush facility. This wine sees oak treatment in two different types of French barrels. Just over 5,000 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $12.

Orange peel, apple and vanilla are all apparent in the nose of this Chardonnay. Peach and apple are a significant part of the palate but those flavors take a slight back seat to a host of lush tropical fruit notes such as mango. Apple pie flavors, fruit, spice and crust are all part of the finish along with white pepper and lingering peach notes. This wine has terrific acidity and is very well balanced. The oak treatment is obvious but not overdone.

The bottom line is that this is another terrific Chardonnay from Cameron Hughes. For $12 it’s a genuine bargain. Grab this one by the case, before it’s gone, and drink it all summer long.

Robert Oatley - 2009 Rosé / 2009 Pinot Grigio / 2009 Sauvignon Blanc

Today I’m going to take a look at three more wines that are perfectly suited for warm weather drinking. These selections are all from Robert Oatley Vineyards. This producer is located in the Mudgee section of Australia, one of the highest elevation winegrowing regions in the country. Robert Oatley has been making wine in Australia for over 40 years. Over time he began to procure land in the Mudgee region and when the time came to start his namesake winery he did so there. First up is the Robert Oatley 2009 Rosé of Sangiovese. This wine was made from fruit sourced at the family vineyards 1,500 feet plus above sea level in Mudgee, This offering is 100% varietal and saw no oak treatment. This wine has a suggested retail price of $15. The nose of this Rosé is marked by aromas of cherry and fresh wild strawberry. Throughout the palate watermelon flavors lead the charge accompanied by cherry and red raspberry as well. A hint of orange peel kicks in at the back of the palate and leads to the finish which has a host of spice notes and lingering fruit flavors. This wine shows crisp acidity and good balance

Next up is the Robert Oatley 2009 Pinot Grigio. Fruit for this wine was sourced from a vineyard in the Adelaide Hills of South Australia. This wine is 100% Pinot Grigio. Alcohol content is a modest 13% for this offering. This wine has a suggested retail price of $16. Bartlett pear and lychee fruit aromas are the most prominent components of this wine’s nose. Orchard fruit is the key element in the palate with both apple and pear playing a big role. Hints of vanilla and pie crust underlie the fruit. Ginger and white peach flavors emerge in the finish which also shows off hints of savory fruit. This Pinot Grigio has more in common with old word examples than it does with most new world versions. It’s crisp, dry and a natural partner for food.

Last up this time out is the Robert Oatley 2009 Sauvignon Blanc. Fruit for this selection was sourced in Pemberton on the Western side of Australia, almost 2,000 miles from Mudgee. This selection is 100% Sauvignon Blanc. As with the other two selections alcohol content is modest, in this case 12.2%. This wine, like the others, is finished in screw cap and has a suggested retail price of $16. Gooseberry, lemon zest and wisps of grass are all present in the nose of this Sauvignon Blanc. An array of citrus flavors is on display throughout the palate; grapefruit, lime and lemon are the strongest trio. All the citrus notes are accompanied by copious amounts of spice. These come together to form a zippy, zesty flavor profile. Hints of white peach and honey emerge on the finish along with continuing spice, particularly white pepper. This wine has excellent acidity.

These three wines from Robert Oatley have much in common despite being very different wines in most ways. Balance and food friendliness are the key elements they share. While each wine is full favored and loaded with varietal character none of them are over the top, or quite frankly anywhere in that ballpark. These are wines you can enjoy every day that will pair well with warm weather and food. Their modest alcohol content and even keeled nature also means they won’t exhaust your palate. With a suggested retail price of around $15 apiece these wines are good values.

Bota Box - 2009 Pinot Grgio

Over the last few years the image of non-traditionally packaged wine has started to shift. It’s no longer a given that wine coming in something other than a 750 ml bottle is of lesser quality. One delivery method that’s made a big turn is the box. What was once the bastion of cheap bulk wine has in some cases come to represent solid value and environmental friendliness. Today I’ll look at a selection from Bota Box that falls into that category. Bota Box 2009 Pinot Grigio comes in a 3 liter package. This box is the equivalent of 4 bottles of wine. The package is 100% recyclable. In addition to that aspect the lower weight and smaller size has a smaller carbon footprint that the same wine in glass would. Its compact size fits easily in a refrigerator or cooler.  This selection was produced from Pinot Grigio sourced from throughout California. Alcohol content is a modest  13%. The suggested retail price for this 3 liter package is $18.99.

Orchard fruit aromas fill the nose of this Pinot Grigio. Apple and pear dominate along with wisps of vanilla. Throughout the palate grapefruit plays a starring role along with continued orchard fruit. Spice notes kick in around mid-palate and continue to the finish which is clean and crisp. A hint of sweetness creeps in at the close and provides a lovely final note.

I served this wine at a BBQ over the weekend and thought it was flavorful and a good value. But I was quite curious to see what others had to say. A couple of common threads emerged amongst those who tasted. In general folks were surprised with the quality level for a boxed wine. They were further stunned when I revealed the price point. In general most of those I polled also used the words, fresh, refreshing and zesty or some combination of those. What I really found is that this wine had broad appeal across a large group. And let’s face it if you’re going to pull out 3 liters of a single wine, broad appeal is what you’re shooting for. The unofficial beginning of summer is here, with it BBQs and grilling galore. This Bota Box Pinot Grigio is a wine to consider for value and wide satisfaction.

A Look At Some Long Island Rosé

With Memorial Day weekend here, Rosé drinking season has officially begun in earnest. At the very least I know that’s true at my house. For me dry Rosé is one of the simple joys of warm weather. I took some time this week to try some Rosés from New York; Long Island to be more specific. Over the last few years there has been more and more acclaim for Long Island wines. The history of winemaking there dates to 1973. At that time there were 17 acres under vine, today there are 3,000. Total case production for Long Island is 500,000. Here are my thoughts about the Long Island Rosé’s I looked at this time out. First up is a selection from Macari Vineyards. They were established in 1995 and produce 14,000 cases of wine annually. The 2008 Macari Rosé is a blend of Cabernet Franc (45%), Merlot (30%), Cabernet Sauvignon (14%), Pinot Noir (7%), and Malbec (4%). The suggested retail price for this wine is $15. The nose of this Rosé is marked by strong, fresh watermelon aromas. These red melon characteristics continue through the palate where they’re joined by other berry fruits such as cherry. A hint of spice kicks in and carries forward through the finish where it’s joined by savory notes in a crisp, dry and refreshing close.

The second wine is from Raphael which was established in 1996. They have 55 acres under vine and produce 5,000 cases per year. The Raphael 2008 Rosé of Merlot was fermented in stainless steel. The suggested retail price for this offering is $16.99. Bright, fresh red berry fruits are prominent on the nose of this selection. Red raspberry leads the palate where it joins forces with subtler wisps of citrus, particularly tangerine peel. There is an impression of sweetness on the back palate that provides a nice tingle leading into the finish. This Rosé is a light, crisp and ultimately very refreshing wine. I found that this offering in particular worked best for me ice cold.

The final wine today is from Castello di Borghese. They were founded in 1973 so they are amongst the oldest wineries on Long Island. They have 84 acres under vine and produce between 7,000 and 8,000 cases each year. The 2008 Borghese Fleurette was made from from Merlot. It has a suggested retail price of $14.99. The lovely light pink hue of this wine really makes a strong impression of classic Rosé in the glass. Aromas of strawberry underscored by a touch of crème fraiche are abundant in the nose. A ton of wild strawberry flavors are prominent throughout the palate of this wine. White pepper and light nutmeg notes kick in around mid-palate and lead to a nice finish. This selection has some intriguing and subtle layers of complexity.

This trio of Rosés from Long Island will make for some delicious summer drinking. Whether by themselves on your deck or with light seasonal foods, each of these wines is a refreshing choice. I enjoyed all three wines but Fleurette from Borghese really hit my personal Rosé sweet spot.

Tasting Shirvington Cabernet Sauvignon & Shiraz

I recently had the chance to taste wine, over dinner, with the Shirvingtons. The namesakes of this Australian Winery were in the United States for the first time in many years showing off their wines. Lucky for me they brought quite a treasure trove of goodies to share. Lynne and Paul Shirvington started down the wine road in 1995. Their aim was for a simpler existence as farmers, and thus they decided that growing grapes would provide the life they were looking for and the challenges they craved. Between 1996 and 2001 they purchases 3 parcels of land. Their vineyard manager Peter Bolte has been with them since 1997 and their winemaker Kim Jackson since 2004. Starting with the 2001 vintage they have made wines that have garnered significant attention and acclaim. I was quite curious to sample their wines as I had not previously done so. It’s generally instructive to do so with the folks responsible and the Shirvingtons were no exception. In addition to founders Peter and Lynne their son Mark was in attendance as well. Their pride in their wines was clear as was their hospitality and charm.

In total we tasted five vintages of Shiraz and four of Cabernet Sauvignon. The fruit was sourced from their own vineyards. So the first step in consistency is controlling their source. Of course there is plenty of vintage variation between them. Tasting the wines side by side was an eye opener into their winemaking style and their track record as a producer. So while there was plenty to differentiate the wines I was struck by the positive attributes they have in common. There is a trio of things that most impressed me about the Shirvington wines as a whole.

The first is the balance and restraint both the Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz showed across each of the vintages. While these are by no means small wines, their heft is quite reasonable. The flavors are mouth-filling, even a bit relentless in their attack at times, but never over the top. Despite alcohol levels well over 15% on almost every offering, not a single one belied any discernable heat. Considering all the disproportionate wine from the world over, that is certainly no small feat.

The second thing that made me really take notice in these wines is their persistence and duration of palate. From the first whiff of the expressive nose through what is an above average finish on each of them, they’re profiles are notably lengthy

Age ability is another other quality about the Shirvington wines that stands out above most others. These wine have the legs to last quite awhile. The oldest wines we tasted were from their second vintage, 2002 and the youngest from 2008. The oldest wines were amazing; particularly in how much fresh fruit they still showed. It would have been very difficult to pick up that the Shiraz was an 8 year old wine. It speaks really well to the small lot, terroir driven approach they employ to make their wines. The older Cabernet was also very good, but showed more of the hallmark signs of an offering with some age on it. It’s hard to say precisely how long these wines will go but at 8 years old now they surely have a couple years more left to go, at the very least. The younger wines which benefited from additional aeration over the course of the evening have the same overall structure and characteristics to indicate that they will have a similar shelf life; perhaps even more as the vines gain age and they learn more and more about them over time.

It’s important to note, as I referenced above, that while there are many qualitative similarities between these wines, the vintage rules they day. The Shirvingtons are keen about making wines that speak very specifically about their place of origin in McLaren Vale. And even that very specific spot has different things to say each year. Weather is of course a huge factor and there have been some vintages affected to different degrees by drought. The Shirvingtons are extremely committed to overall quality; in fact if the fruit isn’t up to their standard they simply won’t make the particular wine that year.

The proof is in the bottle. For me the bottom line is the wine, and it’s clear when it comes to that they’re making all the right decisions. These are world class examples of Australian Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon respectively. Current vintages have a suggested retail price of $66.99 (Shiraz) and $59.99 (Cabernet Sauvignon). Whether you pick some up to knock your friends out today or you want to lay down some wine for the next decade, the Shirvington offerings are selections you should strongly consider.

Sektkellerei Szigeti - Grüner Veltliner Brut NV

Something about Sunday says Sparkling wine. And so I chilled a few that were sitting on my desk and popped them open. After tasting them it turns out that one of them was of particular interest to me and hopefully it will be to you as well. The wine in question is a sparkling Grüner Veltliner. I’ve been sampling different examples of Grüner every chance I get so the opportunity to sample a sparkling one was welcome. It also turned out to be the best of the batch of wines I went through today. The Sektellerei Szigeti Grüner Veltliner NV Brut was produced using fruit sourced at a vineyard surrounding Lake Neusiedl; it sits approximately 328 feet above sea level.  This Sparkling Wine is 100% Grüner Veltliner. The Sziget was made using traditional methods. Fermentation occurred in stainless steel. This was followed by 9-15 months of aging on yeast.  This selection has a suggested retail price of $25.

A hint of lemon zest, followed by wisps of almond are the primary aromas in the attractive and somewhat subtle nose of this wine. The citrus theme continues through the palate where it’s rounded out by a lovely creaminess. White pepper emerges and leads to the finish which features brioche and yeast notes. The length is above average and the flavors really linger in a crisp and refreshing manner. There’s a nice final bite that serves to pull you back to your glass for another sip.

Whether you’re looking to drink more Grüner Veltliner or additional Sparkling wine this selection from Szigeti will fit the bill. It appoints itself nicely on both counts. For a suggested retail right around $25 it offers plenty of quality and more than sufficient complexity.

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Tasting The Wines of Albino Armani

Recently I had the chance to taste some wines from Albino Armani. This Italian producer based in the Adige Valley has a rich history that dates back to 1607. Impressively the same family has owned the property all that time. Over the years they have acquired property in the Veneto, Trentino Alto Adige and Friuli Venezia Giulia; however the Adige Valley of Verona is at the center of their operations. In the 80’s winemaker Albino Armani discovered some Foja Tonda (also known as Casetta) vines on the property. This grape varietal was nearly extinct. Over time they have been replanting it. At present there are 12 hectares of it, still a pretty tiny amount. As of 2002 it was readmitted for cultivation. Over the last several years they have been making wine with it and as of the 2007 vintage Foja Tonda is recognized as D.O.C. Teradeiforti. This is quite a journey for the grape itself and a sign of the family’s perseverance and passion. In addition to tasting three vintages of Foja Tonda I was also able to sample their current release Pinot Grigio. My impressions were as follows.

Albino Armani 2009 Pinot Grigio – The fruit for this wine was sourced from vines aged between 15 and 40 years old. This offering is 100% varietal. 10% of the frit went the through the passito method typically employed when making Amarone. Aging was accomplished in stainless steel. 7,000 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $19.99. Hazelnut and kiwi notes appear on the nose of this Pinot Grigio. Melon and spice characteristics are present through the balanced palate, leading to a clean, crisp finish with fine acidity. Lovely on its own this wine will shine brighter when paired with soft cheeses, roasted chicken or light foods in general.

Albino Armani 2005 Foja Tonda - Casetta - I.G.T – Rosso Vallagarina – All of the fruit for this wine was sourced at estate vineyards in Vallagarina. This offering is 100% Foja Tonda (Casetta). After fermentation the wine was aged in oak for 12 months. 2,400 cases were produced and the suggested retail price is $19.99. Mulled berry and hints of candied cherry mark the nose of this 2005 wine. There is a solid core of upfront fruit through the palate; these flavors continue to the finish which shows off cinnamon, cardamom and a host of mineral notes. Good acidity keeps things in check.

Albino Armani 2006 Foja Tonda - Casetta - I.G.T – Rosso Vallagarina – Fruit was sourced at estate vineyards in the Southern Adige Valley. This wine is 100% varietal. Aging was accomplished over 12 months in 45,000 liter Slovenian oak followed by 6 months in bottle prior to release. 2,400 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $19.99. The extroverted nose of this 2006 wine is loaded with bright fruit. While the flavors on the palate are a bit brighter than the other two vintages, the fruit is ultimately both darker and drier than the aromas would indicate. Black pepper leads the way on a spice laden finish. Good acidity keeps this wine in balance.

Albino Armani 2007 Foja Tonda - Casetta – DOC Terradeiforti – The fruit for this wine was sourced at estate vineyards within Terradeiforti. As with the others this vintage is 100% varietal. Barrel aging was accomplished over 12 months in Slovenian oak; 6 months of bottle aging followed. 2,400 cases were produced and the suggested retail price is $19.99. Dried berry fruit notes are accompanied by hints of thyme on the nose of this 2007 wine. Black cherry, pomegranate and cranberry notes are all apparent throughout the palate of this wine. These lead to spice notes on the finish along with hints of earth and continued soft, sour fruit notes. Good acidity keeps this wine in check.

There are a host of connective tissues that tie these vintages of Foja Tonda together. That said, there is plenty of vintage variation which made tasting them together a fascinating exercise. I hadn’t had Foja Tonda previous to sitting down for this tasting. It will be a natural partner for food, particularly Italian cuisine of course. Anything with a red sauce on it will work well. Over the time we had the wines open to taste they evolved nicely and drank quite well by themselves too.  For me the story of this grape which the Armani family has made their personal reclamation project is fascinating. I’m constantly on a quest to find something new and interesting. In this case here’s something old that has been made new again. It’s most definitely quite interesting and well worth your time to explore. The relatively modest price point will also save damage to your wallet. So if you’re thinking of cracking open another bottle of Chianti or perhaps Dolcetto tonight, try something different. Foja Tonda will hit some of the notes each of those other two wines often do but in its own distinct way, as well as bringing other characteristics to the party as well.

Tasting the Phifer Pavitt 2006 Date Night Cabernet Sauvignon

My time in Napa is always precious. This most recent trip, a few weeks back, it was particularly so. While I was spending nine days in wine country tasting, only one was in Napa Valley. Spending one day in Napa feels like an eye blink to me, so I planned the day as well and carefully as I could. A couple of friends were going to be with me for the whole day so whatever I planned they’d be in on, something for me to be mindful of as I planned. When I was presented with the opportunity to meet Suzanne Phifer Pavitt, taste her wine and have dinner with her, I took  the chance. Even though the day was already pretty full, and I was unfamiliar with her or her wine it seemed like exactly the sort of great opportunity with fortuitous timing that pops up on the best trips to Napa Valley. Without question I’m glad I did. My friends and I met Suzanne at her property on the Silverado Trail. We got to see the Phifer Pavitt tasting room which is currently being completed. After seeing the property and getting a little bit of her history we made our way to dinner so we could learn more and taste her wine. Suzanne and her husband Shane spent a lot of date nights meeting up at various locations throughout California. At first their relationship was long distance and they would pick a place to meet and have a date night each week. Eventually once they were together it led them to buying property in Napa. Those date nights then started taking place on their property, where they dreamed of what it would become.

When the time came to name their wine they realized that Date Night was the natural choice for them. Sure it sounds catchy but for them the name embodies the essence of how they got around to making a wine to begin with. It’s rare (at least for me) to meet a person and feel as if you already knew them. Suzanne has that quality about her. She’s incredibly engaging and charming. Being from Georgia she’s imbued with down home hospitality; quite frankly it pours out of her.

Between stopping at her property and sitting in the restaurant we were all talking for close to a couple of hours and we hadn’t actually tasted her wine yet. At that point I was hoping I would like her wine because I already liked her. I’d have been genuinely disappointed if it turned out I didn’t care for her wine. The good news is that her wine is pretty terrific. Suzanne and her husband make a single offering, Cabernet Sauvignon. They’re currently on their second vintage which is 2006. The fruit is from the Pope Valley section of Napa. In addition to Cabernet winemaker Ted Osborne blended in 2% Petit Verdot. They made 275 cases of this wine and it has a suggested retail price of $75.

Over the course of a leisurely and delicious meal at Solbar we went through two bottles of Date Night and it left a lasting impression. The Phifer Pavitt 2006 Date Night Cabernet Sauvignon is classic example of Cabernet from the valley to my taste buds. Make no mistake it’s a big and bold wine, but it’s structured, well-balanced, and remarkably even, throughout a very persistent palate. The flavors are remarkably mouth-filling and completely take over, but do not overwhelm your senses. The finish is lengthy and the flavors linger for a good long while. The tannins are finely knit and give this Cabernet the structure to age gracefully over the next 6 or so years. And while it will certainly improve in the bottle, this Cabernet is ready to go now. This wine is simultaneously bold, refined and elegant. Date Night Cabernet Sauvignon harkens back a few years in my opinion, to when the goal was to make delicious, drinkable wine that had legs, not specifically to chase scores.

Before too long the Phifer Pavitt tasting room will be open. I highly recommend that you stop by. Tasting the wine and meeting the people behind it is likely to be an occasion you won’t forget. I generally only speak for myself but in this case I can safely say my friends and I all had a wonderful time getting to know Suzanne and her excellent Date Night Cabernet Sauvignon. I eagerly anticipate tasting the next vintage.

Photos by David Vermeire

Adegas D’Altamira - 2008 Albarino Brandal

Warm weather is here and with it the desire for many to drink a higher percentage of white and Rosé wines. While the usual suspects like Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are still out there in force, wine drinkers have a lot more options these days. It seems like so many wine growing countries have white varietals that are emerging in the US. Argentina has Torrontes, Austria has Grüner Veltliner and the Basque have Txakoli. While Albarino from Spain has been on our shelves for years it’s never gotten the mainstream acclaim it deserves. With our wine drinking as a nation growing up a little each year it may see its day yet. Today I’m going to look at an Albarino from Adegas D’Altamira. The Adegas D’Altamira 2008 Albarino Brandal is 100% varietal. Grapes for this selection were chosen from small blocks in the northwest of Spain. All the fruit was handpicked hand sorted and destemmed.  This offering did not undergo malolactic fermentation. 12,000 cases of this Albarino were produced and the suggested retail price is $17.99.

Mango, apricot and vanilla aromas permeate the full nose of this 2008 Albarino. Both white and yellow peach notes are prominent throughout the palate. These are joined by a nice wallop of spice notes. Overall the mouth feel is fuller and juicier than the average Albarino. Hints of lemon zest emerge on the finish along with some savory spice characteristics. The finish is crisp, dry and refreshing. Good acidity keep things balanced and makes this a natural partner for food. That said it’s pretty tasty on its own and will also work that way.

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Visiting Smith-Madrone Winery on Spring Mountain

I’ve travelled to Napa Valley often over the last two decades, and still the list of wineries I have yet to visit, that I want to visit, seems bottomless. Okay well perhaps not bottomless, but there sure are quite a few places I have yet to make it to. Every trip out in addition to recommendations and spots I stumble on I do my best to cross a few off the master list in my mind, of producers I need to visit. One that has been rumbling around in my mind for some time is Smith-Madrone. They’re a Spring Mountain producer that has been around since 1971 While I had tasted their wine a few times over the years my knowledge of Smith-Madrone was largely by reputation. So when I arrived at their property with a couple of friends I was a sponge ready to soak in whatever I could about them. Visiting on Spring Mountain is always particularly exciting to me. It’s off the beaten path and lots of folks don’t make it up there, so it seems a little like a secret wine mission. Once there we were greeted by Stu Smith, half of the Smith brother’s team at the helm of the winery.

Stu took us on a tour of their vineyards and taught us a lot about their property as well as things in Napa I wasn’t aware of. One example was the political struggle in the valley faced by mountain vineyards when compared to the folks on the valley floor. It was pretty fascinating to hear especially from a guy like Stu who is incredibly passionate, well spoken and unfiltered in the best way possible.

The Smith-Madrone portfolio includes Chardonnay, Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon. At one time they also made Pinot Noir. Touring their vineyards it was instructive to note the diversity in their topography, spacing, and training. Some of their blocks are being replanted so it was informative to see the plantings that dated back to the early days of the winery versus the current plantings as well as those in between.

After a fun, informative and sometimes rollicking ride through the vineyard with Stu as our guide we made our way back to the winery itself. It was at this point that we met his brother Charles. While they both seem pretty involved in every aspect of the operation Charles leans towards the winemaking side and Stu towards the vineyard management side.

Tasting through the wines was as much of a revelation as the vineyard tour. Between current vintages, prior vintages and barrel samples we were fortunate enough to taste a few examples of each of their three releases. I didn’t make formal note so I can’t go into great detail about each wine. However as a whole they were impressive. The Chardonnays were really clean and full of fruit. The older of the two (2007 I believe) we tasted from bottle was a bit leaner and had more mineral notes than its younger brother. The Rieslings also featured pure expressions of fruit. There was an impression of sweetness, though they were in fact quite beautifully dry. The Cabernets were simply a knockout. Of the ones we sampled the 2004 was probably my favorite. I have found that when they’re well made, wines that emanate from mountain fruit often show off a pure and intense expression of flavor that is unique. This was the case with the Smith-Madrone Cabernets. They are fruit driven and intense without being fruity and over the top. They are powerful and at the same time elegant and refined. I enjoyed all three varietals quite a bit as they are well made, correct expressions of the grape in question. However the Cabernets for me (at least on the day I tasted them) were just a notch above the Riesling and Chardonnay. Though I’d happily drink any of them.

Before the end of our visit we enjoyed a casual picnic lunch overlooking their vineyards at a table right outside their barrel room. The lively banter we all enjoyed about the world of wine in general was a lot of fun. It also gave me a window into Charles and Stu’s thoughts about some wines outside of their own. Most important to me tough was to have their wine alongside some food. As delicious as they were on their own, having them with a picnic lunch enhanced the experience, which is as it should be with wine in my opinion. Much sooner than I wanted to we had to say goodbye to Charles and Stu so we could make it to another appointment on time. While this was my first visit to Smith-Madrone, it certainly won’t be my last. Their open and gregarious nature, desire to share their vineyards and wines are refreshing and reason enough to visit. Of course the wines themselves makes a pretty strong argument as well. When you mix well made wine, with lovely people you have a sure fire winner in my book. Smith-Madrone is a winery I wish I’d visited sooner and one that it’s well worth your time to make an appointment to visit. When your trip to wine country is over it’s sure to be one of the spots you spend a lot of time talking about.

Photos by David Vermeire

Visiting Jordan Winery In Alexander Valley

Last week I had the opportunity to tour Jordan Vineyards & Winery, as well as taste their wines. While I had been there once in the past, it had been a number of years, so I was eager to see what if anything had changed in the ensuing years. Jordan Winery is a classic Sonoma County Estate, both because of their facility and the wines they produce. In a world where many producers have an ever increasing roster of wines, Jordan has remained hyper-focused on two things; Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. If you’re going to train the laser so closely on two varietals, it’s a very good idea to get those wines right.

I had the fortune of being an overnight guest on the Jordan property. That allowed me to really take things in and spend quite a number of hours just thinking about them and their wines. In my time there I had the opportunity to taste through several vintages each of Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. I didn't make formal notes, but my general impressions are included here.

At one time the Chardonnay was taken from their home estate in Alexander Valley. That’s no longer the case as they now source fruit under long term contracts from growers in the Russian River Valley. In tasting through the 2005, 2007 & 2008 vintages of Chardonnay the overall quality of the wine was obvious. There was a clear consistency in style, yet obvious vintage variation that allowed each wine to speak on its own. Most impressive to me was the 2005. Not that it was significantly better than the other two. In fact it would be tough to distinguish between the three as far as general quality goes. What knocked me out was how fresh, vital and full of fruit the 2005 still was. At 5 years old it showed no sign of letting up and I’d be surprised if it doesn’t drink well for several more years. Certainly the younger wines were even fresher and showed off a bit more bold fruit, with the 2005 featuring more mineral characteristics. Looking forward they all seem headed down the same delicious and long lived path.

The story with the Cabernet Sauvignon was similar. The older vintage of that wine I had the chance to taste was the 2000. It also displayed much more vibrant fruit than I would have expected at this point. I was particularly impressed with the holding power of this wine when taking into account all the 2000 Cabernet Sauvignons from both Sonoma and Napa Valley that are unimpressive. That wine goes a long way towards supporting the axiom that great winemakers shine in tough vintages. Rob Davis who has been at Jordan since the beginning has done an impressive job of helming these wines over the years without getting complacent. The Cabernet Sauvignon program has also had some changes over the last few years. At one time all the fruit was from their Estate. They now source some fruit from other growers. Mendocino is one of the notable locations they go to for outside fruit. Their goal is to make the best wine possible and if that includes some fruit sourcing that’s the direction they take. The more current releases of Cabernet Sauvignon I tasted again showed consistency of quality as well overall style. Despite being located in Alexander Valley Jordan is very much making wines that take old world styling into account. Balance and longevity are both big parts of the program.

The inside and outside of the Jordan Winery facility are beautiful and each has a charm that makes it seem it’s been there much longer than the 30+ years it has been. Touring the property is a revelation. It’s hard to properly describe how mammoth it is in size and scope. Perhaps the only thing more impressive than that is the shear beauty on display. Many wineries are almost all vineyard. This isn’t a surprise when you take into account the cost of acreage. Jordan has its vineyards of course, but they’re surrounded by acres and acres of unspoiled land.

Often times when I reach for a bottle of wine I go for the new and unknown. That can be fun and exciting. If you want a sure bet though Jordan Winery is a great go to choice. They continue to bring an excellent product to market almost four decades into their existence. Many producers with similarly big reputations have gotten apathetic and rested on their laurels. To the contrary it’s clear to me that Jordan keeps reaching for the brass ring. They respect their own past, but they constantly strive to tweak their present, on a constant drive for perfection. So if you’re reaching for Alexander Valley Cabernet or Chardonnay these folks are worth the time and the money. If you’re going to taste wine in Alexander Valley, it’s worth making an appointment. Their staff is filled with friendly people loaded with information about their winery. The photos below will give you a hint about the beauty that awaits you if you visit.

Photos by David Vermeire

Parducci - 2008 Sustainable White / 2006 Sustainable Red

Parducci Wine Cellars has been making dependable and affordable wines for quite a few years now. This Mendocino producer is both sustainably farmed and carbon neutral. For me the first varietal that comes to mind with Parducci is Petite Sirah, but they have a range of selections. Today I’ll look at two current release blends. The 2008 Sustainable White is a blend of Chenin Blanc (41.5%), Sauvignon Blanc (38%), Viognier (12%), Muscat Canelli (7.5%) and Friulano (1%). 9,000 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $10.99.

Fresh fruit aromas fill the nose of this 2008 blend; Lychee fruit is prominent with vanilla bean underscoring it. Hints of tangerine and mango come through in the palate along with gentle wisps of cantaloupe. The finish is spicy and lovely with sufficient length. This wine is balanced by good acidity and is perfectly suited to pair with food.

The 2006 Sustainable Red is a blend of Zinfandel (39%), Syrah (26%), Cabernet Sauvignon (23%) and Carignane (12%).This offering was aged over 26 months in a combination of oak barrels and neutral redwood tanks. 9,000 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $10.99.

The nose of Sustainable Red is filled with red raspberry notes. Vanilla and thyme player a smaller but still decent sized role. The palate shows off a medley of dry fruit flavors. Cranberry, sour black cherry, strawberry and blackberry are all part of things. Hints of rhubarb emerge on the finish along with black pepper. This wine is even keeled with good acidity. As with the white blend this is tailor made for food. What’s particularly impressive is that none of the varietals shine above the rest. They’re seamlessly joined together to form a whole that is greater than the sum of its parts.

Both of these wines from Parducci are really nice values. They’re each meant to pair with food though the white in particular also drinks well on its own. For just about $10 these are interesting selections, made with care and a conscience that you won’t mind opening on a Tuesday night with a slice of pizza or Chinese takeout.

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An Afternoon Visit to Acorn Winery in Sonoma County

If you’re travelling to Sonoma County, or lucky enough to live there, one of the great places to visit is Acorn Winery. I was just out in Sonoma for a little over a week and visited them for the first time in a few years; I won't wait that long again. Betsy and Bill Nachbaur are the owners of Acorn and they’ll take you through their current release wines, the history of the property and more. 

It’s easy to make an appointment to visit at Acorn, but you definitely should make one to assure they’re available to pour for you. Once you get to Acorn Winery you’re going to learn a lot about their wines and the process of grape growing. Along with Bill & Betsy, Alegría Vineyards which is their property, stands at the core of everything about Acorn Winery. Their land is a combination of old vines planted as field blends many, many years ago and some newer plantings that they put in themselves. The love that both Bill & Betsy have for their land and the “get your hands dirty” wine life they live on a day to day basis is apparent and speaks volumes about them. Alegría Vineyards is sustainably farmed. 

Tasting through the current releases which included a Rosato, Zinfandel, Cabernet Franc, Medley and Sangiovese it was easy to see that the Nachbaur’s allow the vineyards to speak for themselves each year. The wines have similar elements that form a connective tissue between them. But where they are grown and lack of manipulation is what shines through in their full flavored, balanced releases that bring to mind both old world winemaking and the beauty of excellent California fruit. With several of the wines I was able to taste a couple of vintages. This was very instructive and showed the consistent quality at Acorn as well as the individuality of each vintage. 

The biggest treat was saved for last. Bill and Betsy wondered if we were interested in Syrah vertical. Of course we were interested. Tasting opportunities like that are precisely the type of motivators which encourages me to visit wineries as often as possible. There’s just no substitute for tasting wines alongside the folks who are responsible for them, a few feet away from where the grapes are grown. In all we went through six vintages of Syrah. We got to sit with these wines for awhile and watch them develop in the glass over some time. The persistent quality of their Syrah just jumped out at me as I tasted these wines side by side. Picking a favorite was hard to do as it kept changing from one to another for me. These Syrahs drank quite nicely on their own but would complement a range of foods quite well. In general the Acorn wines are all food friendly which is another big positive. 

I find that the wines at Acorn are uniformly delicious, distinct and clearly made with care. Bill and Betsy are both warm and engaging. It’s apparent to me as it would likely be to any visitor that they love sharing their wines, their property, their experience and their story with people. Anyone who can is urged to visit Acorn Winery, both to sample their Artisan wines and to spend time with some lovely folks who exemplify the very best of  terrific California family wineries. Great Wine, Great Place, Great People.

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Graf Hardegg - 2008 Grüner Veltliner vom Schloss

My coverage of Grüner Veltliner continues today with a selection from Graf Hardegg. This Austrian winery makes a bit more than 16,000 cases per year. 45% of their production is Grüner Veltliner. The other parts of their portfolio are also quite diverse. For example they currently stand as the only Austrian winery that produces Viognier as well as port. They’re located in the Weinviertel section of Austria about an hour north of Vienna. The Graf Hardegg 2008 Grüner Veltliner vom Schloss was produced using hand harvested fruit This wine is 100% Grüner Veltliner. Fermentation took place over 25 days in a combination of stainless steel (75%) and large, new oak casks (25%). Bottling occurred in April of 2009. This selection has a suggested retail price of $20.

The nose of this 2008 Grüner Veltliner shows some bright fruit accompanied by hints of spice. White peach kicks in as well. A solid core of apple is underscored by tingly ginger flavors through the even, full flavored palate. Lemon zest and grapefruit flavors kick in around mid-palate and lead to the finish. The aforementioned finish is tingly and spicy with throat clinging mineral notes that beckon you back to the glass for more. This wine is crisp, refreshing and balanced by well integrated acidity.

This 2008 release from Graf Hardegg is a fine example of Grüner Veltliner. It’s delicious now and will drink well for the next 4-5 years. As with most delicate and complex white wines make sure you don’t over chill it for maximum enjoyment. Without question this Grüner is well worth the asking price

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Laurenz V. - 2007 Charming Grüner Veltliner

A couple of weeks back I looked at an entry-level Grüner Veltliner from Laurenz V. Today as I continue my quest to cover an increasing array of Austrian wines in 2010 I'll take a look at another selection from Laurenz V. This one is also a Grüner Veltliner but it clocks in a few dollars higher. The Laurenz V. 2008 Charming Grüner Veltliner was produced using grapes from the Kamptal and Waldviertel regions of Austrian. The fruit was hand harvested in small lots. Temperature controlled fermentation took place in stainless steel. The wine was bottled in July of 2008. This selection has a suggested retail price of $24.99.

Vanilla and apple cider aromas are at the forefront of this Grüner Veltliner's nose. The palate shows excellent intensity with fruit, minerals and spice notes coming together to form a solid core of flavor. Lemon, lime and tangerine are the most prominent fruit flavors with ginger taking the spice lead. A hint of honey emerges on the finish which also shows off savory fruit elements and lingering spice. Excellent acidity keeps everything in check.

The wine is silky and lush. At $24.99 It's more expensive than an entry-level Grüner Veltliner but it still represents a very good value. There's a quality and complexity level here that goes beyond the price tag. An excellent choice to share with friends. The ones who aren't familiar with Grüner Veltliner are likely to be knocked out. Those who are somewhat familiar will be impressed with the many nuances this wine shows off.

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Jade Mountain Vineyards - 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon

Jade Mountain Vineyards blends both varietals and appellations. Their portfolio consists of wines that are blends of both types. Today I’ll look at their current release of Cabernet Sauvignon. The Jade Mountain 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon was made using fruit sourced in three separate appellations; 55% from Napa Valley, 41% Sonoma County and 4% Lake County. This selection is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine was aged in a combination of French and American oak. This offering most often sells for around $16.

Mid priced wines that source fruit from multiple appellations appeal to me conceptually. At their best these wines are strengthened by blending components with different characteristics from distinct growing regions. Both Napa and Sonoma produce great Cabernet Sauvignon, but they can be very different, to say the least. So on paper blending fruit from both regions with a dollop from Lake County sounds tasty.

Plum, cherry and blackberry characteristics are striking in the nose of this 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. A huge bust of cherry flavors continues that theme throughout the palate which is rich, plush and full flavored. Bosco Chocolate Syrup flavors, earth, minerals and a solid wallop of spice all contribute to a solid finish. This wine is well balanced, featuring yielding tannins and good acidity.

This Cabernet is pretty tasty but it was tight out of the bottle. An hour of air really helped it open up and express itself. Plenty of Cabernet character to be found here for the price point. This is a solid value that lives up to its intent of being an accessible Cabernet for a reasonable price.

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A Chat With Peter Rubissow

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Peter Rubissow (pictured) and his sister Ariel are the second generation owners and Sheppard’s of Rubissow Wines. This Mt Veeder Winery in California's Napa Valley was known as Rubissow-Sargent under its previous incarnation. That history dates back to the early 80’s. I recently chatted with Peter about the history, future and present of Rubissow Wines and more. It's a long read, but Peter shares some great information, I hope you'll take the time to go through it:

Gabe: When you and your sister took over the operation from your fatherand his partner there was a 20+ year history in place. What was the hardest part of the transition? Was it the thing you would have expected to be the hardest?

Peter: Personally, when we began this process back in 2004, I couldn't wait to bring our new wines to market, but I knew serious patience and meticulous planning would be required to get there. As it turned out, it took more time and energy than we could have ever imagined, but it was well worth it to get things right from the start. The hardest thing about the process was the time and emotional energy required to address every concern that the founders needed answered before we could actually make the transition. That, plus the fact that they were shutting down Rubissow-Sargent operations while we were simultaneously growing the new Rubissow Wines. It took great diplomacy on everyone's part. We made it through intact, and we're all the better for it. Phew

Gabe: Part of what your generation has changed at Rubissow is the style of wine. In simple terms you’ve chosen to increase the richness and power by making a bolder more forward style of wine. Part of that is dropping fruit thus making sure what you pick is more concentrated. A result of that has been lowering production. Is this something you pushed for when your Dad and his partner were running things, or did you come to it after taking the reins?

Peter: In my 15 years of travelling the nation building the Rubissow-Sargent brand, meeting with sommeliers, wine buyers and wine consumers, I heard many, many comments from our fans and our critics about suggested ways to improve the Rubissow-Sargent wines. Most people wanted more fruit. But by design, R-S made elegant, high acid, low-alcohol wines in a classic style. Our fans loved the wines, but many also asked for improvements. And I always brought those comments back to our winemaker Tony Sargent. But, Tony and my father weren't in the business of making fruit forward, extracted wines, so we could only go so far with that. Our niche was classically structured, Bordeaux-style red wines, so there was only so far the branch could bend. My vision for the new Rubissow wines was to dramatically increase the depth and expression of the wines. We knew this was mostly a matter of vineyard care and winemaking technique. So we addressed the issue head-on. Working with our new team of winemaker Timothy Milos - who started out as a harvest researcher at Opus One,  then a Lab Tech/Cellar Hand at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, graduating to the hard-won Winemaker title at S. Anderson/Cliff Lede -  and Vineyard Manager Ramon Pulido (formerly of Chandon) we immediately instituted aggressive fruit thinning, improved vine nutrition and updated vine pruning technique, all in the winter of early 2004. The resulting 2004 wines tell the whole story. Greatly restricted crop load meant delicious expression of terroir and richness, picking later in the season made for full bodied flavors and aromas, as well as balanced tannins. We were happy with the results and our customers seemed to agree. The difference in style from the previous generation was clear, yet the terroir of vineyard was still recognizable. Mission accomplished. And we intend to improve upon that mission with every new vintage

Gabe: Could you speak about your commitment to sustainable/organic farming and how it directly applies to Rubissow?

Peter: Although we're not certified organic, we strictly adhere to the principles of agricultural sustainability and green business. Organic viticultural practices are the core that commitment. It's the heart of what we do. We are always working to keep in balance with the vineyard, its flora, fauna and surrounding forest. We want a healthy place to live and work, and we want to have as low an environmental impact as possible, and we are ever-improving our choices and practices in this regard. For example, to control weeds under the vine rows, up until now we've been using gas powered weed eaters. This reduces our use of synthetic herbicides which can be extremely toxic. But recent developments in organic materials have brought a new orange oil weed killer to market, which is certified for organic use and we've been experimenting with it. It works beautifully but costs are still about the same as paying our crew to run the weed eaters - because the product is expensive to produce. Regardless, we are happy with the results. And on a human level our crew is happy to not have to work the hot, noisy, stinky weed eaters for weeks at a time. The orange oil has a nice scent for a few days too. After that it just biodegrades into inert materials. And we only use it in the winter, when the vines are dormant, so there's no concern of the aroma affecting the wines. So that's one example of how we're always experimenting with new ideas, products and techniques to lower cost, expand our commitment to living lightly on the land and improve wine quality. That being said, with our very steep terrain, we do run a gas powered ATV motorcycle all over the farm every day carrying tools and equipment. But it uses a tenth of the fuel a pickup truck would. We have a big Chevy diesel 4X4 pickup for hauling the big loads, plus a FIAT diesel tractor. All these choices add up. If you are committed to sustainability it's essential to look at your whole vineyard and winery business and see where you can lower impact and at what environmental and economic cost.

Gabe: What are your thoughts on alternative closures? What role if any do you feel the price point of a bottle plays in determining the closure type?

Peter: Screw caps are not for us. They aren't a good match with our green business, nor with the handmade quality and meticulous attention to detail we put into every bottle. Screw caps have their place, sure, but they are often more costly than cork. Also, screw caps are very energy-intensive multi-step industrial process, using materials which in the end are at best, difficult to separate for recycling.  Accordingly a cork is still our favored closure - for now. Choosing our cork supplier carefully is part of it. We use Xiberta, an artisan cork maker with a commitment to quality control that matches our own. That being said, cork taint happens from time to time when using cork closures....and nobody likes or wants a corked bottle! But for the price of our wines ($50-$125/btl) I feel that our customer still wants and expects cork closures. I am open to changing that, as technology progresses. The new Stelvin glass closure is what Tim Milos and I are most interested in. I know a few other Napa producers have used this closure with great success. Plus, it looks beautiful and is in keeping with a $75 bottle of Cabernet. On a different note, for our new value priced wines brand, Lola Kay, which will launch in Feb 2010, we are using composite cork closures that are infinitely less expensive than virgin cork, while still retaining the feel and tradition of cork. Plus for all our wines we use only corks with a TCA PPT (parts for trillion) rate of 1 PPT or less. Basically, that reduces the risk of cork taint to the lowest possible level. The stakes are high for our business and for our customers. We choose our corks accordingly.

Gabe: When I last visited Rubissow last summer you mentioned a second label. Where do things stand with that and when can we expect to taste those wines?

Peter: As mentioned above, our new LOLA KAY brand is in bottle and we've rolled one out already. We're pretty excited about it. The first wine will be is Lola Kay 2006 Red Table Wine - Napa Valley - which is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. It was just released. Then, Lola Kay 2009 Sauvignon Blanc - Napa - will follow soon. The Red is $20 and the SB is under $17.

Initially, Lola Kay will be offered in restaurants and selected wine shops in California, Illinois, Colorado and Arizona, and it will represent a very high level of quality for the price. We know that folks who were spending above $50 retail on their dinner wines during the boom years are now looking for a handmade, balanced wine which they can drink every day and not break the budget. This is that wine. And for those people who have been spending $10-$15 on their dinner wines, for a few dollars more Lola Kay will be a special indulgence. We are aiming for both customers.

From the start of our new second generation business we have been planning this 2nd brand and we're finally there. The goal is to make exceptionally delicious, food-friendly wines from only the best, most authentic Napa sources. All Lola lay wines will feature good acidity, expressive fruit, and balanced style. We'll leave the "hedonistic" style to those who do it well. Lola Kay is all about great balance and superb local vineyard sources. The name Lola Kay derives from the two first names of my grandmothers, Lola and Kay, both of whom were a storied part of our family history. For my sister and I, winemaking is all about family, so the name fits. And with the label art we're taking a modern, abstract approach with clean typography and bold presence. We'll be letting the label out of the bag on our website in a month or so, but for now, we're keeping it under wraps. Stay tuned.

Gabe: Has the economy had a major impact on sales this year?

Peter: Straight up: For us, wholesale sales to distributors are down. We released our new $75 Cab into a down economy. That's the reality. And we've addressed it head-on. Consumer-direct sales are up. Way up. We've responded to this new market by being very inventive and creative in our direct marketing outreach. We're doing more private dinners and private wine events. We're not harping on our distributors to force our wines through the pipeline. They are doing their best and we know it, and it's counterproductive to force the issue. We all know what time it is, so to speak. And because people are generally still spending less on wines these days, the reality is that restaurants are ordering less wines in our price point. And stores are featuring floor stacks of famous name Napa wines you could previously only get via mailing list. Many of us in Napa are facing this reality. It's all about price right now. That being said, our Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon at $125 has been a steady seller through the downturn...

No discounts, no deals. It's simply a very rare and exclusive bottle of wine. A certain segment of individuals are only interested in wines at this price and above - and the downturn has provided an opportunity for them to enjoy being able to afford wines of this price. The middle of the market, the $30-$100 bottles are where things have really slowed down for many of us in Napa during the downturn.

Gabe: What have you seen so far from the 2009 Harvest and what are the early prospects for what will become the 2009 vintage?

Peter: We had an abundant harvest this year. It's a bit soon to say what we've got. I will say that some of the cab lots are really, really good. We'll know better in a few months after the wines have settled down a bit. Stay tuned.

Gabe: Outside of the 2009’s, what vintage that you currently have in barrel or bottle do you feel holds the most promise for greatness upon release and why?

Peter: 2006 and 2007; both amazing, for different reasons. 06: powerful, very, very complex and built for the long run. Wow. The 07s are uniformly splendid and plush, with great ripeness. We had a very small crop though, so supply will be tight. But we're dropping a lot of fruit every year to improve fruit and terroir expression. The 08s are exciting too.  Bursting with complexity and richness, but still several years from being ready. Basically, with our massive commitment to vine care and insanely low crop yields, the new Rubissow wines have a noticeable consistency from vintage to vintage. The only way to get that is to watch your crop loads very carefully and take very good care of your vines....

Gabe: One of the changes you made was adding a Reserve wine to the lineup. Are there any other reserves or new blends on the horizon for the Rubissow wines?

Peter: As I mentioned before, our Reserve program is humming along nicely. We only make 100-300 cases of Reserve Cab currently. It's all our estate will give us. We only make Reserve from the absolutely most extraordinary fruit on our steep, all-angles terrain. We're working each season to raise the health and vigor of our vines to where they will give us more Reserve Cab in the years to come. It's a gradual process. Much like raising children, you have to take a long-term approach. As far as other new bottlings, we will be releasing our first-ever Syrah next year. The Rubissow 2007 Mt. Veeder Syrah comes from a remote corner of our estate where we have been nurturing a small collection of rugged Syrah vines. It is really, really good stuff. Just 50 cases made. I am really excited about this expressive wine, as I am a fan of Northern California Syrah as well as certain Chateuneuf Du Papes and Rhone wines in general. Oh yes, we also have a Rubissow Malbec in the works. Rich, fragrant, bursting with power. Ultra limited production. Look for that in a few years…

Gabe: Did you specifically seek out Timothy Milos because you were fond of his other work or did he come up when you were searching for a winemaker?

Peter: Great question. We had already interviewed several of Napa's top winemakers and had held many, many meetings around the dining room table in our vineyard farmhouse. We didn't want just a consultant. We wanted someone who would come on board as an ardent team player and advocate for our new generation of wines. We also wanted an accomplished winemaker who had mad skills in both grape growing and winemaking and the magic zone in between. A great winemaker is very in touch with his vineyard sources, hands-on, connected.

We were down to a short list of brilliant people and then suddenly our friend Maya Olds (second generation winemaker at Sky Vineyards on Mt Veeder) told us that her good friend Tim Milos was available. Even though we thought we had already made our choice from the many winemakers we'd already interviewed, we met with Tim anyway. Maya insisted. I knew of the Cliff Lede, Opus One and Stag's Leap wines of course, and Tim had worked at all those esteemed producers; Impressive indeed. But that wasn't the factor that got him the job. Instead, we all recognized the connection of shared values, commitment to local, family farming and our collective raw ambition. And after meeting many times to work out the details, we shook hands. I'm glad we did. What a great winemaker he is. Following our lead, he has raised the bar to where we want it to be. Way up there. And we keep it there. He and my sister Ariel work closely with our vineyard team to maintain high quality year in year out, while I oversee the whole business and focus on keeping sales strong. We are all counting on each other to get the job done.

Gabe: I assume a winery the size of Rubissow counts on hand selling for a lot of the wine. Be it Wine club, small specialty shops etc. Do the archaic shipping laws affect you much and if so how do you deal with them?

Peter: We ship to many states, but not all. Regardless, that means a lot of paperwork and permitting and monthly reporting for every state we ship to. That being said, our biggest market is California. Approximately 70% of all our wine is currently sold here in California. As for the archaic shipping laws in the U.S., if consumers knew just how tightly regulated this is in each state and how wacky these laws are, when compared to other goods, they would be surprised - to put it lightly. Thankfully some States are responding to consumer demand and are allowing wine shipments - or "imports" to use the legal term them from California. We have permits in many of those states. But for certain other states we and everyone else are just flat-out not allowed to ship there. Such are the current State laws in place.

Gabe: Outside of your own wines, what do you drink most often given the choice? Are there particular varietals you lean towards?

Peter: Lately I've been mostly drinking Syrah. I love Unti's Sonoma Syrahs and also Lagier Meredith Syrah from Mt. Veeder. I like bright acidity and ripe flavors; I also am a big fan of Melville Syrah and Pinot Noir from the Central Coast. For Napa Cab, one of my consistent favorites is Neal Family Cabernet...superb balance and terroir without sinking into fruit-bomb territory. Merry Edwards Pinots are a frequent choice when dining out in the US. My favorite Napa producers are Sinskey, Frog's Leap, and Honig. I'm not a chardonnay drinker but if I was I'd be drinking Lioco single vineyard chards for their authenticity and absence of oak. For France I'm mostly into Chateauneuf Du Pape and other Grenache/Syrah wines of the region - though I've got a lot to learn. Also, there is an artisan producer in the Colorado high country - S. Rhodes - that is exceptional. His Cab Franc is a stunning wine by any measure. If I could have one wine tonight  - any wine - it would be...Rottlan Torra - Riserva - from Priorat in Spain. They make a few different wines, all are so packed with terroir it's mind-bending. I have a friend who imports it into the US, and he turned me onto it several years ago. I must admit that I do drink our own wines while I can. Supply is limited of course. Merlot is my current fascination and passion. And forget that Sideways stupidity, Merlot is an exceptional, splendid varietal, when properly farmed.

Gabe: With the US becoming more of a wine drinking country as time goes on has the recognition factor for Mt. Veeder increased hand in hand with that?

Peter: Absolutely. Mt. Veeder is becoming increasingly recognized as people gets to know California better. And Mt Veeder has come a LONG way from the days of being thought of as just all about mouth-ripping tannin and age-ability. Now it's about fruit expression and ripeness (and tannin and age-ability!) and cooler climate acidity and aromatic expression. The Appellation itself is planning a collective PR campaign in the coming months which will help raise awareness further. Most of us winery producers and growers on Mt. Veeder are members of the appellation council and we work together to promote the character, personality and quality of this remarkable area.

Gabe: Has the emergence of Social Media been useful for Rubissow Wines?

Peter: Yes indeedy. I spend way too much time online already, and our website presence is strong and well-visited. We know that online interaction is essential to any business right now. Accordingly we are expanding our Facebook presence, as well as beginning to Tweet and such. Plus this year we began to reach out to the wine blogging community - and the results have been great. It's enabled us to reach a much wider audience - which we very much appreciate. We want people to discover us through word of mouth. We don't advertise. We're too small. So word of mouth and Social Media is an excellent forum for the wine-curious to discover us. We're continuing to learn and grow this side of our community every week. With Lola Kay, our new value priced wines, we expect Social Media will play an essential role in people discovering the wines and what it's all about. It will happen organically, as word gets out. So yes, we like where things are heading in the realm of Social Media and we'll be watching as it morphs and evolves in its own way.

Gabe: If you weren’t running a Winery what would you be doing?

Peter: That's easy, living in Santa Monica or Boulder with my wife; composing film scores, writing songs. making films, raising children, opening a restaurant possibly, growing fruit and vegetables locally, running a record label, Skiing down a Colorado mountain at 50 MPH, or more.

Thanks to Peter for taking the time to answer my questions. If you haven’t had any Rubissow Wines yet, I highly recommend them. You’re in for a real treat, check them out.

Piña - 2007 D’Adamo Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon / 2007 Buckeye Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

If you’ve spent any time tasting wine in Napa Valley you can attest to the fact that Cabernet Sauvignon is everywhere. It happens that Napa is one of the places in the world where Cabernet truly flourishes. When journeying from one winery to another it can be a bit overwhelming when you realize that if all you did was taste Napa Cabernet, it would become a part time job to try every one in the valley. It is tempting though because there are so many fine examples out there. Production sizes, styles, vineyards and more vary so greatly that this one terrific grape produces a sea of distinct offerings.

Today I’m going to look at two from one small producer, Piña Napa Valley. The Piña family has a long history in Napa Valley that dates back to the 1860’s. While they are perhaps best known for their great reputation as vineyard managers, their wines have also earned a strong following and exceptional reputation amongst Cabernet lovers especially. Their winery is located on the Silverado Trail. Some of their offerings are made in tiny quantities and available only directly from the winery. Today’s selections, while still modest in case production, do see a little bit of distribution around the country.

First up is the Piña 2007 D’Adamo Cabernet Sauvignon. It is a single vineyard offering. The Piña family has leased this property since 1982. They replanted it in 1997. This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel aging was accomplished over 20 months in French oak; 68% of the barrels were new. Just over 1,000 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $75.

Black cherry, raspberry, truffle and a hint of eucalyptus mark the nose of this 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. Blackberry and continued cherry notes are evident throughout the palate. It has an intense, layered and well balanced attack loaded with wave after wave of unrelenting flavor. Graham cracker crust, tons of dusty baker’s chocolate, black pepper, earth and a terrific mineral component make up the lengthy finish of this wine. Tannins are finely grained and well integrated.

The D’Adamo Vineyard Cabernet is delicious right out of the bottle. But give it an hour or so of air, or watch it develop over a leisurely meal with a friend, and you’ll be even more impressed as it unleashes its charms. Of course laying it down for a few years would also work if you have the patience.

The second wine is the Piña 2007 Buckeye Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s also a single vineyard offering; Buckeye Vineyard is located on Howell Mountain. The Piña family has had this vineyard since 1996 and they planted it the following year. This selection is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel aging was accomplished over 20 months in French oak; 73% of the barrels were new. 840 cases of this Mountain Cab were produced and the suggested retail price is $85.

Leather, cigar box, plum, berry and thyme are all present in the nose of this wine. Dark fruit including black raspberry, blackberry and an undercurrent of plum are all present throughout the palate which is layered with mountain fruit intensity. Anise, chicory, chocolate and plum pudding spice notes emerge in the impressively lengthy finish of this wine. This offering is tightly structured with firm tannins and solid acidity.

Much like the previous Cabernet, the Buckeye Vineyard needs air. A couple of hours in the decanter are hardly out of the question; that time will allow it to really shine. In truth this wine is really just a baby right now. Don’t get me wrong it’s pretty tasty. But if you want to get the very best out of this wine, lay it down for 8-10 years and then open it up. If you do decide to drink it now, pair it with something substantial.

When people speak about top shelf Napa Cabernet Sauvignon the Piña wines are the sort of releases they mean. I know it’s the style and quality of Cabernet I think of when outstanding examples come to mind. Both of these wines are exceptional and each of them is really just at the beginning of its lifecycle. The D’Adamo is a bit more accessible at the moment and it would be my choice if I was picking amongst these to drink tonight. If you love Cabernet from Napa Valley, consider the wines from Piña, you can thank me later.

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