Gabe's View


Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

Schug - 2005 Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

My first time trying the wines of Schug Carneros Estate was this past January at the Sun Wine Fest. Up until that point my familiarity with them was by reputation. So when I noticed they were represented, I made a point to taste through their wines. The wines were sufficiently impressive that I knew immediately I wanted to cover some oSchug Cabernetf them here. Today's selection is a 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon. Just over 3,000 cases of this Sonoma Valley designated wine were bottled. 13% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 1% Syrah were blended with the Cabernet Sauvignon. The retail price is $26.

The first thing apparent to me about this wine is how much the Cabernet Franc does to lift the nose of this wine. Dark berry fruit abounds in the bouquet along with subtle spice notes. The first sips reveal a lot more spice and copiuous black cherry fruit. As these carry through the mid-palate they are joined by some clove and strong mocha characteristics. This Cabernet finishes with an underlying earthiness and continued spice notes. This wine is rich and mouth-filling. It's a natural companion to heartier fare. A steak would certainly suit it rather well. I found it to pair perfectly with a beef barley stew.

To fully enjoy this wine now, I recommend decanting it for a minimum of an hour. It needs that time to really open up and reveal all it's layers and charm. As with the other releases I have looked at from Schug, this Cabernet is very well balanced and quite frankly elegant. The use of oak is apparent but well in check. The style of this wine reminds me a bit of a Wellington Cabernet I looked at a few weeks ago. Both are well crafted wines from Sonoma, whose balanced style strike me as more typically European than Californian.

Although it's drinking well now I'd expect this wine to improve nicely over the next handful of years. The earthiness which is present now will likely become more readily apparent. Whether you want to drink it tonight with dinner, or lay it down for a few years, the 2005 Sonoma Valley Cabernet is another solid bet from Schug.

Coming Friday: This weeks look at Schug Carneros Estate closes with two Pinot Noir releases

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Schug Carneros Estate - 2006 Chardonnays

Today I'm looking at a couple of 2006 Chardonnays from Schug, the Sonoma Coast and the Carneros. In addition to those they also make a third, more limited, Chardonnay known as Carneros Heritage Reserve. Walter Schug whose vision has guided the winery since he founded it in 1980, learned wine-making in his native Germany. This experience strikes me as particularly relevant and helpful when making varietals such as Chardonnay or Pinot Noir that love cooler wine growing regions. The Sonoma Coast Chardonnay is Schug's entry level offering of this varietal. The retail Sonoma Coastprice is $22. With just over 7,300 cases made, this is Schug's second largest production. The nose reveals a lot of citrus and a hint of spice. The first sip shows more spice and citrus notes along with peach and pear characteristics that carry through the mid-palate. The finish of the Sonoma Coast Chardonnay has white pepper and little touch of candied apple. This is a medium bodied wine with firm acidity. Oak is detectable and adds to the spice characteristics throughout, but never overshadows the fruit.  I found this wine to be a great complement for a classic panini with tomato, basil and fresh mozzarella. Most lighter fare will be a good match for it as well. It's also light and refreshing enough to enjoy on it's own.

It's not always easy to find well made Chardonnay from California in this price range. The Schug Sonoma Coast Chardonnay is a winner. What pleases me most about it is it's true varietal character. This is a wine made to drink in it's youth.

Carneros ChardonnayThe Carneros Chardonnay comes mostly (96%) from Carneros fruit. Half of that is from the Schug Estate. In a lot of ways the Carneros Chardonnay is a bird of a different feather. Even from the vanilla in the nose it reveals the additional use of oak which lends itself to greater complexity. Pear and spice present themselves in the first sip. The mid-palate has a buttery apple pie note accompanied by significant mulled spice characteristics. The finish is clean, crisp and quite refreshing. This is a bigger, richer wine with a rounder mouth-feel than the Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. Still the use of oak is restrained and never over the top. Sufficient acidity is present to make this a well balanced effort. More than the Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, this one seems to need food.

Just over 5,000 cases of the 2006 Schug Carneros Chardonnay were produced and it retails for $26. Wine-Searcher shows that it's available pretty widely for closer to $22. For either price you're getting a good amount of complexity and a well crafted wine for your money. I would expect this wine to drink well for a couple of years.

Both Chardonnays from Schugare well made wines that are also fairly priced. Beyond that it's a question of taste. My personal preference was for the Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. It has an easy drink-ability about it, which for me makes it a more than solid "everyday drinker." It's a workhorse Chardonnay, which seems to be it's intent. The Carneros Chardonnay offers more complexity, structure and room for contemplation. Also a solid bet, especially, paired appropriately with food. It's a Chardonnay you'll enjoy if you want to get a little "dressed up" for dinner.

Up Next: Schug Carneros Estate 2005 Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

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Schug - 2006 Sauvignon Blanc

Up first, in my coverage of Schug Carneros Estate wines, is their 2006 Sauvignon Blanc. The fruit was sourced from several diverse vineyards in Sonoma County and just over Schug SB1,600 cases of this wine were produced. Retail price on this Sauvignon Blanc is $18. A ton of grapefruit is the main story of this Sauvignon Blanc's nose. The first sips reveals an accompanying zesty tartness. That tartness disappears pretty quickly as the wine opens up a bit in the glass. This gives way to a lot more fruit flavors that coat the mouth through the mid-palate. More grapefruit, melon and lychee fruit come out and carry on through the substantial finish, which also features an underlying spiciness that tingles the tongue and back of the throat in a very pleasant manner. This wine is clean, crisp and very well balanced. Some of the wine was aged in large oak casks. This added a layer of complexity, but is subtle enough not to detract from the fruit.

This Sauvignon Blanc is an excellent match for mild cheeses. I had it with a wine cured goat cheese and found it to be a perfect complement. I expect it would also be a terrific match for entree salads and other lighter foods. Though it's built for food, this wine also works well sipped on it's own. Drinking it made wish for summer to get here quickly.

For $18 the 2006 Schug Sauvignon Blanc is undoubtedly a good buy. What impressed me the most about it is the impeccable balance and restraint it shows. Often Sauvignon Blancs swing too far one way or the other for my taste. The 2006 Schug Sauvignon Blanc however, is right in my sweet spot for this varietal.

Tomorrow: A look at two distinct Chardonnays from Schug Carneros Estate.

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Schug Carneros Estate

This week I'll be taking a look at 6 wines from Schug Carneros Estate in Somoma California. Schug is a family owned and run Schug Carneros Estateoperation that was founded in 1980. They produce approximately 25,000 cases of wine per year. Walter Schug whose roots run deep in California Wine industry history, founded Schug. Previous to striking out on his own he worked for Gallo and was then the winemaker at Joseph Phelps. While at Phelps, among other things, he made Insignia which remains a benchmark California Wine. Since 1996 their head winemaker has been Michael Cox, a Somoma native. He had previously worked side by side with Walter Schug as his assitant winemaker. Prior to that he'd worked in the cellar at Dry Creek Vineyards and at Napa's De Moor Vineyards as Winemaker. At the time he was Napa's youngest winemaker.  

Over the next few days I'll take a look at Schug Carneros Estate's Sauvigon Blanc, two of their Chardonnays, Two Pinot Noirs and a Cabernet Sauvignon. Please check back and read about the wines being produced by this reputable New World Winery. The wines they are producing reflect a sense of place reminiscent of their Old World fore-bearers.

Santa Ema - 2003 Syrah

Santa EmaSanta Ema is a Chilean Winery founded by Italian immigrants. Best known for some of their value priced wines, they also make some selections in premium price ranges. The 2003 Santa Ema Syrah is amongst their value priced offerings. Retail is around $11 but it can generally be found in the $8 price range.

Deep garnet in color, this wine offers spice, earthiness and a bouquet of blueberries on the nose. The first sip reveals more dark berry fruit, loads of pepper and soft, ripe tannins, all which carry through the mid-palate. The finish features chocolate and subtle leather notes. There is some noticeable oak but it's use was judicious as it doesn't get in the way of the fruit. The Santa Ema Syrah is well balanced with appropriate acidity. This wine is a perfect match for pizza or a dish of pasta. It's bound to go nicely with dark chocolate as well.

Considering the relatively low price tag, this wine is a nice bargain. It delivers more varietal character than is often found at this price range, as well as a decent amount of complexity. That said it's surely not intended for long term aging. Drink this one up before the calender hits 2009.

Coming Next Week: A Look at 6 current releases from Sonoma's Schug Winery.

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Robert Mondavi - 2005 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

I suppose it's fitting that the final selection for Cabernet Sauvignon Week is from Robert Mondavi CabMondavi Winery. The story of the Mondavi impact on the California Wine Industry is retold often enough that it doesn't bear repeating here. As with many of the larger wineries, that are now owned by corporations, the Mondavi brand has a wide reach at numerous price and quality levels. Today's Cabernet is from the Napa Valley series. For me, it's at this level up that one can seriously consider the Mondavi wines. The Mondavi 2005 Napa Valley Cabernet is in fact 85% Cabernet Sauvignon. The other 15% is made up of parts of all four of the other Bordeaux varietals.

The nose of this wine reveals oak, vanilla and a lot of spice. What becomes immediately apparent when taking the first sip is that this wine is young. There is an upfront tartness that dissipates as the wine breathes, but is still apparent. Blueberry, mocha and white pepper come out and resonate through the mid-palate. There are present, slightly rough, tannins in this wine. A sign that it needs some time in the bottle. The finish is slightly above average in length with more spice and a very subtle earthiness. The 2005 Mondavi Cabernet shows good acidity and is well balanced. The alcohol is a somewhat surprising 15%, but it doesn't come across that way when drinking it.

It's clear to me that this wine needs more time in the bottle to resolve itself. Six months to a year should make a huge difference. My bet is that it'll be enjoyable to drink for 7 or 8 years after that. Suggested retail is $28. Check Wine-Searcher though as it can easily be found for $20 or under. This is a well made Cabernet that needs some time to be fully enjoyed.

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Tara Bella - 2005 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve

Today's Cabernet selection is from Sonoma County California. Tara Bella Winery is very Tara Bellaliterally 2 people, Tara and Rich Minnick. They do just about everything themselves, including hand numbering and hand-waxing every single bottle of their Cabernet Sauvignon. They planted their vineyard in the foothills of the Russian River in 1995. Their 100% varietal, 100% Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon is the only wine they make. Their total annual production is between 300 and 500 Cases. In 2005 they made 359 cases. The first thing apparent about this wine is that it's a little on the young side right now. Decanting it for a couple of hours is highly recommended if you want to enjoy this one in it's youth.

Once it does open up the nose reveals spice, blueberry, cedar and a hint of licorice. The first sips bring out some earthiness as well as raspberry and cherry fruit characteristics. The mid-palate is rich and mouth-filling with excellent acidity. The berry characters as well as the earthiness and spice continue through the long and persistent finish. There is an inherent earthiness to this wine that I'd expect to increase with some bottle age. This wine is very well balanced and made for food. I found it to be a perfect match for Wild Mushroom Risotto.

Tara Bella 2005 Estate Cabernet Reserve sells for $65. However, almost 95% of their wine each year is sold to their wine club for $53 per bottle. If you can get your hands on some of their Cabernet I suggest laying it down for a few years and then pulling it out for a special occasion of some kind. The 2005 should improve nicely for at least 10 years, perhaps more, considering how well balanced it is. This wine might be made in California but it has an Old World style to it.

Tomorrow: The final wine of Cabernet Sauvignon Week, is from Robert Mondavi

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Mollydooker - 2006 The Maitre D' Cabernet Sauvignon

For today's Cabernet selection I'm looking at one from Australia. Although this is only the second vintage for Mollydooker Maitre D'Wines, the folks behind the label Sarah & Sparky Marquis have been in the wine business for the better part of two decades in one form or another. Mollydooker Wines has several distinct series which translate into different price points. Today's Cabernet Sauvignon is part of the Lefty Series. Each of the wines in the Lefty Series has a retail price of $20. Upon approaching The Maitre D' the first whiff from the nose reveals plum and berry notes in great abundance. The first sips showcases more dark berry fruit and some softer mocha notes. This wine absolutely explodes on the mid-palate with extremely rich and mouth-filling intense dark berry and plum fruit. The finish of The Maitre D' is long, lingering and noteworthy for the price point. Clearly above average in length it features, fig, candied blueberry a ton of spice and subtle espresso notes. The tannins on this wine are soft and fairly sleek. Above all The Maitre D' is smooth, silky and loaded with ripe enticing dark fruit that draws you back for sip after sip.

Considering the wine clocks in with 16% alcohol it's a marvel that it doesn't drink hot at all. In fact it's well balanced with firm acidity and goes down quite easily. It's a big wine for sure but it's also not overwhelming and didn't tire my palate as I drank it. The Maitre D' drinks very well right now and I expect it has a solid 5 years ahead of it. For $20 this an excellent value and you'll be hard pressed to do better. This is especially recommended for fans of big, rich wines. Mollydooker Wines has a great deal if you order through their website. If you purchase a case of wine, shipping from California for the entire thing is only .12 cents.

Stay tuned as I will be looking at two other Mollydooker Wines, The Boxer and Blue Eyed Boy in the upcoming weeks.

Up Next: A Look at Tara Bella's 2005 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon.

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Wellington Vineyards - Mohrhardt Ridge 2003 Cabernet

Today's Cabernet Sauvignon is a single vineyard offering from Wellington Vineyards in Sonoma County California. Included in their diverse offerings are several Rhone varietals, a few blends, a few vineyard designated Zinfandels, Cabernets and more. The Mohrardt Ridge Cabernet is one that Wellington has been making for many years. The 2003 that I looked at is in fact their 15th straight vintage from that vineyard. WellingtonThe nose of the Mohrardt Ridge offers up lots of spice, blueberries and cedar notes. The first sip reveals oak that is firmly present but in check and reserved. The mid-palate features a lot of dark berry fruit along with continued spice notes that tingle along the tongue and back of the throat. The finish, which is substantial in length, has some light earthiness and subtle black pepper. This Wellington Cabernet is very well balanced with good acidity and firm tannins. An hour or so in the decanter does wonders to change the flavor profile of this wine and allow it to open up and shine.

The retail price on this wine is $22. This is a good value for a wine that has at least 5 years of positive evolution ahead of it. What I liked best about this wine is it's balance. That balance is what helps this wine pair wonderfully with a wide range of foods. This is a New World wine with Old World restraint and elegance. Having had a number of Wellington Vineyards wines over the years it's fair to say that describes their house style.

The next Cabernet featured will be from Mollydooker.

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Joel Gott - 2005 California Cabernet Sauvignon

Today's selection is a 2005 Cabernet from Joel Gott. This one differs from most of the other Cabernet's this week in that it's a blend sourced from several diverse areas of Joel GottCalifornia. Fruit from Napa, Sonoma, Lodi & Lake County went into this wine. It was aged for 15 months in a combination of French and American oak. Just over 9,000 cases of this wine were produced and it retails at $17. The diversity of fruit really helps make a wine of wide-ranging character and appeal. The first thing apparent is a bouquet of candied black cherries that just explode in your nose. The first couple sips of this wine are tart and tight but it opens up and smooths itself out very quickly. There is an absolute ton of dark, jammy fruit up front that leads to a huge rich mouth-filling mid-palate. The finish features some mocha notes that are underpinned by tingly white pepper. Joel Gott's 2005 California Cabernet is lush and the finish is hefty and substantial. The wine has good acidity and is well balanced. The rich heady fruit makes it very much the New World wine that it is. It has easy drink-ability and sufficient complexity to make it interesting and a bit thought provoking. This wine will pair very well with BBQ and grilled meats in general. It also drinks very well on it's own.

For $17 I found this wine to be a very good value. It over-delivers for the price-point. Definitely recommended for fans of fruit driven wines that envelope the palate. Joel Gott is probably best known for his Zinfandels. This Cabernet shows that his other offerings are well worth a look too.

Coming Tomorrow: A Single vineyard Cabernet from Wellington Vineyards.

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Martin & Weyrich - 2003 Cabernets

Up today are two offerings from Martin & Weyrich of Paso Robles California. Admittedly, I am a huge fan of the Paso Robles region in general. I find that by and large there are many noteworthy wines of distinction coming out of this area. Not only do many of them stand out stylistically, they are also often available at bargain prices compared to wines of similar quality from say Napa or Sonoma. Having started in 1981 Martin & Weyrich is amongst the earliest wineries from the area. Their portfolio reads like the United Nations of Wine. Italian and Spanish varietals are a large part of what they do right alongside Bordeaux offerings such as Cabernet Sauvignon. There are precious few U.S. Wineries that even make Tempranillo, let alone a dry Rosé of Tempranillo. That's but one example of their diversity.

The first of their two Cabernet's that I looked at is called "Etrusco." 15% Sangiovese was blended in and it spent 18 months Etruscoin 50% new French oak. 3,100 cases of this wine were produced and it's retail price is $22. I found this wine to need a solid hour in the decanter to really show all it's true colors. Initially it had some tartness but that dissipated. The nose is full of black raspberry and earthy mushroom aromas. The first sip reveals toasted cherry flavors that follow through to the mid-palate along with substantial pepper and overall spice elements. The finish features some white pepper notes and clings to the back of the throat for a noticeable amount of time. "Etrusco" is well balanced with terrific acidity. It's clear that the Sangiovese blended in really helps balance this wine and make it very approachable. This wine works very well with pasta and red sauce as well as fairly strong cheeses.

For $22 this wine is a certainly worth it in my opinion. What I most enjoyed about this wine is it's combination of bright and dark fruit flavors which makes it very easy to drink. That said, this wine has quite a bit going including firm tannins, suggesting a respectable shelf life if stored properly.

The second Martin & Weyrich Cabernet offering is also from 2003. This one is however 100% varietal. Additionally it 2003 Cabernetspent two full years in 80% new French oak. Fruit was sourced exclusively at the Weyrich Family Ranch and production was limited to 500 cases. Retail price is $35.

Giving this wine time to breathe is even more essential than with the other selection. The nose offers up chocolate dipped raspberries. The first sip reveals significant tannins, earthiness and kirsch liquor. The mid-palate is big, round and mouth-filling with a ton more cherry fruit and mushroom laced earthiness. The finish is long and lingering with more berry fruit and substantial spice flavors that go on and on. While this wine is quite enjoyable now, especially after sufficient time breathing, it will improve with age, perhaps dramatically. I would anticipate the already present earthiness to become a greater focus as the fruit and tannins soften. The winery expects this wine to age ten years and that would not surprise me. I think that if you tuck a couple away now you'll be pretty happy in 5 or so years when you pull one out for an occasion. At the moment this wine would be a great match for a steak or other equally hearty foods.

At $35 this wine is actually a bargain. No it's probably not a wine most can have with leftovers on Wednesday night very often. But it is a tremendously good wine with excellent aging potential. Cabernet Sauvignon of equal quality from Napa would easily cost twice what this wine does. What I liked most about this wine was it's range of flavors and complexity for the price.

Both Cabernets from Martin & Weyrich impressed me. They are distinct wines and each offers value in it's price category.

Cabernet Sauvignon Week continues with a wine from Joel Gott coming up next. 

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Castillo de Molina Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2005

Molina Today's selection is the final Cabernet for the week in the value category. The Castillo de Molina Cabernet is from Curico Valley. This is estate fruit grown in Vina San Pedro's vineyards. Castillo de Molina is one of Vina San Pedro's second labels. For those not familiar with them, Vina San Pedro's flagship Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the best coming out of Chile year in and year out. For my money it often runs neck and neck with the legendary Don Melchor. This Cabernet spent a year in a combination of French and American oak barrels. 30% of the barrels used are new. The first whiff of this wine reveals vanilla and blueberries. After the wine opens up a bit some mocha and cherry notes also emerge from the nose.  The palate shows some toasty oak layered on top of berry flavors. This wine is very light bodied for a Cabernet. It features a firm acidity and the tannins present are soft and round. The Molina has no hard edges and certainly goes down smoothly. The finish features some spicy white pepper notes. The finish is a touch below average. This wine should be paired up with lighter food than the average Cabernet Sauvignon. Mild cheeses and roasted chicken are 2 items that come to mind which would work well.

I found previous vintages of this wine to be more impressive. The 2003 in particular was excellent in it's price category. The retail price of this wine is around $11. If you shop around you can find it for a couple of dollars less. At around $9 it's an OK buy. I would not expect this wine to improve in the bottle. However it should drink as it does now for 3-5 years. Without question, of the three value priced Cabernets I looked at this week, the Guenoc is hands down the best value.

Up Next: Two selections from Martin & Weyrich

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Guenoc - 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon

The second selection for Cabernet week is from Guenoc in Lake County California. GuenocGuenoc is a sub label of Langtry Estate & Vineyards. Lake County is an up and coming area in California about 60 miles north of San Francisco. Some interesting wines at very fair prices are emerging from this area. Guenoc's 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon is blended with 8% Petit Verdot and 4% Petite Sirah. This wine spent 20 months in a combination of French and American oak barrels. The nose of the Guenoc Cabernet has lots of dark blackberry fruit and a touch of tobacco. It takes about 45 minutes in  the decanter for this wine to open up fully. Once it does the first sip reveals generous spice notes, especially pepper and more dark fruit characteristics. The finish is of medium length and there is some white pepper that coats the back of the throat as it closes out. It's lighter bodied than a typical Cabernet which lends itself to pleasurable sipping on it's own. I also expect this wine to go well with pasta and red sauce as well as a variety of cheeses.

Retail price on the Guenoc Cabernet Sauvignon is $12, putting it in the value category. A quick look at wine-searcher.com shows it can generally be found for under $10. It's certainly a solid value in that price category. I'd expect this wine to have at least 5 years of life ahead of it.

Coming tomorrow: Castillo de Molina, the weeks final entry in the value category. 

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Santa Rita - 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva Maipo

First up for Cabernet Sauvignon week is a value priced offering from Chile. Over the years I've had good luck in finding Santa Ritasome terrific values for my money with wines coming from South America. And Maipo Valley, where this selection hails from, has been a specific source of some of my favorite Chilean finds over time. In general I have often been able to find Chilean wines with a great earthiness to them, which is appealing to me. The 2005 Santa Rita Cabernet Sauvignon was aged in a combination of American oak and stainless steal vats for 8 months. This one is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose features mostly black fruit characteristics along with subtler anise and a bit of clove. The first sip out of the bottle was tart and tight. The mid-palate has some dust and earth on it along with dark berry and soft tannins. Even after breathing the finish showed some tartness along with a few white pepper notes. That finish however is well below average in length. After the bottle is open for an hour or so and the initial tartness dissipates as do most of the other limited flavor notes this wine features. In fact, what little fruit it has seems to disappear rather quickly and be replaced by an unfortunate vegetal quality that isn't appealing.

Santa Rita Cabernet Sauvignon Resevra has a retail price in the neighborhood of $12. If you look around though you can find it for about $9. Unfortunately with all the values coming out of Chile it's very easy for me to say that this wine simply isn't worth your money. Way too many South American producers are providing more bang for the buck in this category. This particular wine is one to avoid.

Coming tomorrow a review of a Guenoc Lake County California Cabernet Sauvignon

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Cabernet Sauvignon Week

Tomorrow marks the beginning of Cabernet Sauvignon Week. Each day one or two cab's will be looked at closely. The Etruscolist of wines scheduled for coverage include (not necessarily in this order): Santa Rita - A Chilean Wine in the value category.

  

Guenoc - A California wine from emerging Lake County in the value category.

  

Wellington - A single vineyard wine from Sonoma County California.

  

Martin & Weyrich- Two selections from this venerable Paso Robles, California producer.

  

Mollydooker - A rising star from Australia in the $20 range.

  

Castillo de Molina - A Chilean producer with a value priced entry.

  

Joel Gott- A wine priced in the teens and sourced from several prime California AVA's

 

Tara Bella- A single vineyard, limited production wine from Sonoma.

  

Mondavi- A look at what this seminal Napa winery is offering in Cabernet for around $20.

  

and more....

Willie Nelson - Moment of Forever

Moment of ForeverThat at almost 75 years of age, and close to 50 years after the release of his debut album, Willie Nelson still manages to release music is impressive. The fact that he can release an album as fresh and timeless sounding as Moment Of Forever in 2008 is astounding. Willie's career has taken on many phases, sounds and shapes. He's been a legend so long now it's hard to think of him as much else. Before he reached those heights though he had many other stops along the way. Outlaw is one of the titles he seemed to wear most proudly. It's fitting then that he had Kenny Chesney produce this album. Chesney is one of the most successful acts in country today, yet at least by perception and reputation he seems to stand outside the Nashville mainstream and go his own way.

Moment Of Forever does a fine job of combining Willie Nelson originals with well chosen covers. Dave Matthews' "Gravedigger" retains enough of the original versions funky vibe while simultaneously being unmistakably Willie. "Takin' On Water" has some organ parts that bring to mind mid 70's Stevie Wonder in their soulfulness. "You Don't Think I'm Funny Anymore" with it's old juke joint stomping feel to it is the best of the Nelson originals on the album. The closer though, a cover of Dylan's "Gotta Serve Somebody," delivered with stirring conviction is the definitive highlight of the album.

Chesney's production is clean and streamlined. He doesn't bog the album done with any unnecessary layers. He acts as a conduit to bring Willie and the songs directly through the speakers to the listener.

Detractors might point out that "Moment of Forever" isn't quite "Shotgun Willie" or "Phases and Stages." And while that is true, "Moment of Forever" goes beyond what one can rightly expect from someone 50 years into a recording career.

Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén - Hemar 2005 Crianza

The final selection for Spanish Wine Week is the 4th wine I've looked at in the Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén  portfolio. Hemar CrianzaAs with the previous three it was produced from fruit sourced in Ribera Del Duero. Hemar's older vineyards at 80 years old are also at an average elevation of 2,730 feet and the soil is quite stony in nature. The 2005 Hemar Crianza spent 13 months in French oak followed by 9 months in bottle before it was released. As with the other wines I tasted in the Hemar line the Crianza straddles the line of New World fruitiness and Old World Elegance. This wine needs about 30 minutes of breathing time before it's fully ready to come out and play. Once it has had that time though it reveals itself nicely. The nose gives of an earthy mushroom muskiness that puts me in the mind of Burgundian Pinot Noir. The mid-palate is an absolute buffet of dark berry fruit with underlying notes of vanilla and a hint of clove. Hints of subtle dark chocolate hit the back of the throat and tease it with their richness. Hemar Crianza is somewhere between medium and full bodied. It's incredibly rich and full in the mouth but doesn't overwhelm. The finish is long, lingering and well above average. More of the earthiness that was apparent in the nose as well as some peppery notes come out in the finish. The acidity and balance of this wine are perfectly in check. This wine will go well with an assortment of grilled meats and other fairly hearty fare.

Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén 2005 Crianza retails at just over $30. For that price I feel you'd certainly be getting fair value for your money. This wine is drinking well now. I'd anticipate it to evolve favorably for a couple of years at drink well until at least the end of 2012.

Imported by The Ravensvale Group.

This concludes Spanish Wine Week. Look for Cabernet Sauvignon Week starting on Sunday!

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Barón de Ley - 2001 Reserva

With so many wines to cover, Spanish Wine Week has crept into a second week. Today's selection, a reserva, brings me back to the Baron de leyRioja region. The Barón de Ley 2001 Reserva was aged for 20 months in new American oak. After that it spent a full 24 months aging in bottle. This first thing the nose of this wine gave off was a strong whiff of menthol. I didn't find that very pleasant but it was also accompanied by some subtle cherry. The initial sip was very tart. This wine needs to be decanted for at least an hour. Once that hour passes the menthol notes dissipate and the cherry come out front and center. Accompanying the sour cherry notes, which are fairly typical of Rioja, is plenty of out front oak. As time goes on the oak fades from the forefront. The mid-plate features more cherry accompanied by some vanilla and spice notes.  The wine has tremendous acidity. Not so much that it's distracting but it is ever-present and should be considered when looking for a dish to pair this wine with. The finish brings out some white pepper and a touch of earthiness. However for a wine that retails at around $22 the finish is below average in length and frankly unimpressive. Overall the wine doesn't have nearly enough complexity to justify it's price tag.

Once Barón de Ley 2001 Reserva opens up it's decent but underwhelming. For $22 this wine is overpriced. If it retailed for half the price it would be much easier to overlook it's shortcomings. However as it stands it's incredibly easy to do much better for that money with wines from Rioja. Therefore there is no way I can recommend this wine.

Imported by Frederick Wildman and Sons.

Spanish Wine Week concludes tomorrow with another selction from Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén. 

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Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén - Hemar 2004 Llanum

2004 LlanumToday's selection is the third of four from Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén. All four are from the Ribera del Duero region. The 2004 Llanum is a limited production. Less than 550 cases of this wine were produced and it was sourced completely from 80 year old vines. Hemar 2004 Llanum was aged for 15 months in a combination of French and American oak barrels. This wine is very tight out of the bottle. I'd recommend ninety minutes to two hours decanting time. Once it opens up though, it really sings. The huge nose reveals mulled spice, candied berries and a hint of toasty oak. The mid-palate features loads of dark plum and berry fruit along with cassis notes, a hint of espresso bean and an undercurrent of bacon fat that hits the back of the throat and sticks there. Llanum is incredibly rich, self-indulgent and mouth-filling. The finish which is above average and impressively long has some dark chocolate notes, more spice and continued big and dark fruit. Along with the rich jammy berry fruit Llanum has excellent acidity that creates a very well balanced wine. The fact that Llanum is sourced exclusively from 80 year old vines shows itself in the concentration and richness of this wine.

Hemar 2004 Llanum is a perfect match for hearty fare. I found it to go very well with a Sausage and Lentil stew from Umbria. As impressive as this wine is now I expect it to age and improve. Laying it down for two to three years should bring out even more complexity. I'd expect it to drink well for at least five to eight years after that. The retail on this wine is between $60 and $65. It's well worth that. This is not a Tuesday night with pizza wine, but it's a perfect special occasion bottle. Sock a couple away now and you'll be pretty happy when you pop them open for Christmas 2010.

No two ways about it, Hemar 2004 Llanum is a tremendous and impressive bottle of wine.  The year is young but I've had the chance to taste several hundred wines already, some of them priced well more than twice as much as Llanum. This is easily the best one I've had so far in 2008.

Imported by The Ravensvale Group. 

Next up in  Spanish Wine Week is a selection from Rioja.

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Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén - 2006 Hemar Roble

Hemar RobleAs Spanish Wine weeks extends into it's 6th day I'm taking a look at another wine from Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén. As with Thursday's wine this one is also from Ribera del Duero. The average age of the vines is 20 years and some of them are as old as 80 years old. Those older vines tend to produce wines of greater extraction and intensity of flavor. The biggest difference in terms of wine-making method between the Hemar Roble and Thursday's Hemar Joven is the way they were aged. Roble spent 7 months in a combination of French and American oak barrels as opposed to Joven's tank aging. Upon opening this wine is pretty tight and shows significant tartness. A solid hour in the decanter does wonders for this selection. The color is a deep and dark purple.

Once it has had the chance to breathe the nose displays big blackberry and cherry notes. The first sip brings out some cedar and subtle spice notes. It's immediately obvious that this is a more full bodied, richer wine than the Joven. The mid-palate is full and round with a real silkiness. More dark berry fruit and some mushroom and earthiness come out in the middle. This wine has excellent acidity and is very well balanced. The finish has white pepper and dark chocolate notes alongside each other. This wine will pair well with medium strength cheeses and roast meats. I thought it went fabulously well with a roast pork loin.

The way the oak is well integrated into this wine but noticeable along with the terrific acidity and rich fruit lead me to believe this wine has a few solid years ahead of it. I imagine the fruit will soften over the next few years allowing the subtle earthiness to emerge further. I suspect it'll evolve nicely for at least two to three years and drink well for another two or three after that.

 The 2006 Hemar Roble is a step up up in complexity, length of finish and overall elegance from the Hemar Joven. It retails at just over $20.00 which is a couple of dollars more than the Joven. They're very different wines, both enjoyable in their own right.

Imported by the Ravensvale Group.

Stay Tuned! Spanish Wine Week continues for 3 more days.

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