Gabe's View


Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

Rodney Strong Vineyards - 2006 Knotty Vines Zinfandel

A couple of weeks back I looked at several wines from Rodney Strong Vineyards in Sonoma. Today The 12 Days of Zin checks in with them to see how they handle this quintessentially California varietal. The 2006 Knotty Vines Zinfandel is 99% varietal with 1% Petite Sirah blended in. fruit was sourced from Alexander Valley (83%) and Russian River Valley (17%). The Russian River vines date back to 1904. The wine was aged in American (71%) and French (29%) oak for 10 months. The suggested retail price for this wine is $20, though it can often be found for about $5 less than that.

A touch of reticence immediately out of the bottle is overcome quickly and within 30 minutes this wine is ready to party. Jam laden berry notes and vanilla fill the nose of this wine. Throughout the palate a solid fruit core is underscored by a persistent undercurrent of spice. The combination of these two together is the wines hallmark. The back of the mid-palate has a touch of a bacon fat note on which leads into a finish filled with white pepper, nutmeg and assorted more subtle spices and lingering berry fruit notes.

What I like most about this selection is that it's a Zinfandel with finesse and elegance but also counterbalanced by some zippy jam laden fruit up front to provide immediate appeal. This wine has sufficient acidity and is nicely balanced. Widely available and attractively priced this is a good bet as a go to zin any night of the week. Drink it in the short term.

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Michael David - 2006 Seven Deadly Zins

The next wine I'm looking at for The 12 Days of Zin is from Lodi. Zinfandels from this region often tend to be big jammy blockbusters. This is a style of Zin that can be as popular with some crowds as it is reviled by others. Personally, when they're well made and I'm in the mood, I like a blockbuster in your face Zinfandel as much as the next guy.  Michael David Family of Wines has been making several wines with catchy names and packaging that are priced right for everyday drinking. Today I'll look at their current vintage of Seven Deadly Zins, which happens to be the first release of theirs I became aware of several years back. The Michael Davd Family of Wines 2006 Seven Deadly Zins is a blend of Old Vine Lodi Zinfandel from seven different vineyards. Small amounts of Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot were also added to the blend. The suggested retail price for this wine is $17. Look around or check wine-searcher and you'll see it's often available for closer to $13.

Plum, blueberry, and blackberry fruit fill the nose and palate of this wine. If you could drink wild berry pie, this is probably what it would taste like. As with past vintages the 2006 version absolutely leaps out of the glass when you pour it. While it's hugely expressive immediately,  some air allows it to show it's layers. Lingering fruit and spice carry through a persistent finish. From start to finish this wine is big, mouth-filling, rich and incredibly smooth and silky.

If you're a fan of big, unbridled, jam laden Zins that speak of their Lodi heritage you're going to have a tough time doing better Seven Deadly Zins, especially when you factor in bang for the buck. If you're looking for a Zinfandel that leans towards restrained, this wild child of a Zin might not be for you. An excellent choice to bring to a BBQ or other large gathering. Both the price and the explosive flavor are sure to please the masses.

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Orfila Vineyards & Winery - 2005 Zinfandel

The 12 Days of Zin Continues with what will be its Southern most stop. Orfila Vineyards and Winery is a San Diego based operation. Orfila Winery was purchased close to 20 years ago by Alejandro Orfila and his wife. He is a former Argentine Ambassador to the US. His General Manager and Winemaker at Orfila is Leon Santoro. Santoro brought a wide range of experience with him. His past winemaking includes stops at Napa Valley's Quail Ridge, Stags Leap Cellars and Louis Martini Winery. Together Orfila and Santoro share a stated goal to prove that excellent wine can be produced in the Southern part of California. Orfila has a 70 acre Estate with 40 of those under vine. The 2005 Orfila Winery & Vineyards "Gold Rush" Zinfandel was sourced from the Lopez Vineyards in Rancho Cucamonga. The suggested retail price for this wine is $24.

The nose of this 2005 Zin from Orfila is filled with the aromas of fresh summer berry pie. I found the wine to be slightly tight out of the bottle. Decanting or letting it open a bit in your glass is recommended. Once it opens up a ton of cherry and subtle wild strawberry notes come out in droves. While this selection is rich and full in the mid-palate it leans towards medium bodied within the world of Zinfandel. Black pepper and light earth notes fill the finish which has good length. I had this with London broil and it complemented it quite well.

What I liked most about this particular Zinfandel is its combination of rich flavor, countered by smooth, easy drinkability. A nice selection from Orfila Vineyards and Winery.

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Eberle - 2006 Zinfandel

The first stop today during the 12 Days of Zin is Paso Robles. As I've mentioned in the past I feel Zinfandel is one of the varietals that tends to really thrive in the Paso Robles area. With a couple of exceptions Zins from this area that have most impressed my tend towards the bigger, jammy style. Gary Eberle who founded the namesake winery has a history of wine-making in the region that precedes it even being an officially recognized appellation. Their broad array of offerings include Rhone and Bordeaux varietals as well as several other wines such as Zinfandel that aren't part of either classification. The 2006 Eberle Winery Zinfandel was made with fruit sourced from both the Steinbeck and Wine Bush vineyards. The split was an even 50/50. This wine spent 16 months aging in 20% new American oak.  Just over 2,800 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price for this wine is $24.

The first thing that is apparent about the Eberle Zinfandel is that it needs to breathe. Before decanting it didn't really give much. After having had the chance to get some air it really started to shine. Plum, blueberry, and black raspberry all come out in the nose. From the entry point through the mid-palate there is plenty of medium bright fruit accompanied by a sour cherry undertone that gives this offering a very unique and appealling edge. Blackberry pie spice, as well as white pepper and earth make up the lingering finish. This wine will be an excellent match for almost any type of BBQ. I had it with slow cooked, pulled pork and it worked marvelously. A nice little value.

This wine shares elements of both big jam laden Zins as well as those made in a more restrained style. It has a fine acidity that helps balance it. For maximum pleasure I recommend drinking this one over the next 2-4 years.

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Cakebread Cellars - 2005 Zinfandel

The 12 Days of Zin continues with a stop at Napa Valley's Cakebread Cellars. Their story is one of a true family business that starts with Jack and Dolores Cakebread and continues through their sons and extended family. When a lot of people think of Cakebread Cellars the Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc come to mind. This isn't surprising as they have both been heralded and scored highly in various publications for many years. Personally I've always been a bigger fan of their reds. Thus I'm happy to include their Zinfandel in this series. The Cakebread Cellars 2005 Zinfandel is 100% varietal. All of the fruit is from the Lake County, Red Hills appellation. Three different Zinfandel clones were aged separately for 9 months. At that point the final blend was put together and the wine spent another 9 months in 35% new French oak barrels. The suggested retail price for this wine is $41.

This 2005 Zin has berry, bramble and vanilla on the nose. It comes out of the gate a little tight and decanting for an hour or so is recommended. Once it's had that chance to open up its layers really come out. This is a thick, rich, opulent and mouth-filling example of Zinfandel.  Chocolate covered cherry notes emerge on the entry and carry though the palate. Plum, blackberry and other dark fruit underscore the chocolate notes which remain persistent throughout. Both white and black peppers come out on the finish, accompanied by subtler oak notes. A firm tannic structure is evident as well.

What I like best about this wine is that it's got a really solid, even keeled palate that never seems to fade. It carries solid, rich notes throughout the wine. This is an example of a bigger, riper Zin, with some jam fruit elements. However it's balanced and structured enough that it will not only drink well and hold for several years but will likely improve in the short term.

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Papapietro Perry - 2005 Zinfandel

The third day of The 12 Days of Zin marks another stop at a winery in the Dry Creek Valley. 2008 marks 10 years since the first vintage of Papapietro Perry. Interestingly they specialize in both Pinot Noir and Zinfandel. Each is a red grape made in an incredibly wide array of styles. Both happen to be favorite varietals of mine and I tend to cover examples of each whenever  I have the opportunity. Whereas with Pinot Noir I'm strongly in favor of those made in a classic Burgundian style, I'm much more open to more divergent styles of Zin. The Papapietro Perry 2005 Pauline's Vineyard Zinfandel is 100% single vineyard varietal. It was aged for 13 months in a combination of 2 and 3 year old French Oak. 390 cases of this wine were produced and it retails for $36.

Decanting this wine is highly recommended. At first blush, out of bottle it's closed up and tight. Once it opens though it tells a far more expressive story. Red raspberry and earthy bramble fill the nose along with subtler but present blueberry notes. While the nose has jam aspects the palate rides the line. All the berry fruit is kept in check by fine acidity and a solid tannic structure. Dark plum notes emerge at the back end of the mid-palate, leading the way to the finish. Vanilla, nutmeg, white pepper and dust notes fill the lingering finish. That dust leaves the final impression and is an indicator of it's Dry Creek heritage. This wine will be a nice match for pepper steak, london broil or a burger topped with strong cheese.

What I like best about this Zinfandel is it's impressive structure and clear ability to age. This should improve over the next year or so and drink well for a minimum of 5 years after that, likely longer. While $36 may not be a wine you have every night with a burger, not every Zin will improve with age, not to mention impress with it's balance and overall finesse.

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Fritz Winery - A Couple of 2005 Zinfandels

The 12 Days of Zin continues with what will be the first of several stops in the Dry Creek Valley. Quite a few varietals thrive in this area of Sonoma, but I find Zinfandels from this area seem to be particularly impressive in general. Today's selections are from Fritz Winery. They produce approximately 12,000 cases annually of wine from grapes they grow in Dry Creek and Estate Vineyards in the Russian River Valley. I'm looking at both their Estate Zinfandel and an Estate Reserve Zinfandel today. The 2005 Estate Zinfandel is 100% varietal and all Estate fruit. The wine spent 6 months in a combination of French and American oak, 40% of it was new. Just under 2,800 cases of this selection were released and the suggested retail price is $25.

The first thing that's apparent is this wine has a beautiful cherry apple red hue. Bright cherry, vanilla and underlying wild strawberry fruit are featured in the nose of the 2005 Estate Zinfandel from Fritz. 45 minutes or so in the decanter or glass serves this wine well and allows it open nicely. Once it does it shows itself to be medium bodied (within the world of Zins) and choc full of cherry and spice flavors. This wine is smooth and easy drinking while filling the plate with nutmeg spice and earth on a gentle, lingering finish. The spice notes are the most prominent and persistent throughout this wines palate. While this wine will stand up to some ribs, it's balanced enough to be a welcome match for a dish of pasta as well.

Compared to the Estate Zinfandel, only a tiny amount of the Fritz Winery 2005 Estate Reserve was produced. In fact, only 278 cases in total. The reserve has a suggested retail price of $40.

What's immediately obvious about the reserve is how much darker it is in color than the estate. That deeper hue comes through immediately. The nose is filled with blackberry, vanilla, cedar and an underlying touch of eucalyptus. Taking the first sip of this wine I found it, not surprisingly, to be a little tight straight out of the bottle. Once it opened up sour cherry and black pepper notes came out prominently on the entry point. From the mid-palate through the finish more deep, dark fruit notes are buttressed by terrific white pepper, nutmeg and cherry pie spice notes. This wine has excellent acidity and is impeccably balanced. It's a bigger, bolder wine than the Estate and should be paired with heartier foods that will best complement it.

I tasted the reserve again after it had been open for a full 24 hours. In that time period it had blossomed further and was even more expressive than the day before. I'd expect it to age effortlessly for at least a decade.

What I liked best about these wines is that they're each fine values in their respective price categories. They're both made in a more classic style of Zinfandel. Both have some jam fruit elements but tend towards restraint balance and the ability to age.

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Barra of Mendocino - 2004 Estate Zinfandel

The second selection during the 12 Days of Zin, takes us up to Mendocino. Barra of Mendocino is a family owned winery that exclusively uses Estate fruit in its wines. They have 175 organically farmed acres under vine. Petite Sirah, Chardonnay and Muscat Cannelli are just of few of the varietals outside of Zinfandel that they produce. Their history is a long one, founder Charlie Barra has been farming grapes since the mid 40's. In 1954 he purchased the land the vineyards are part of. The 2004 Barra of Mendocino Zinfandel is a brand new release. This wine is 100% varietal. The wine was aged in a combination of new (20%), one year (40%) and three year (40%) French oak. 562 cases of this wine were produced and the retail price of this selection is $20.

The Barra of Mendocino 2004 Estate Zinfandel is impressive from the word go. That said, letting it breathe is recommended for it to spread it's wings and fully soar.  Blackberry jam, cassis and vanilla notes leap out of the glass and form a lively and exciting nose. From the first sip it's filled with plum notes underscored by subtle cinnamon. This wine has a rich round, smooth, mouth-feel. The entire palate is full of big, firm fruit notes. The finish, which is lengthy enough to be impressive, features lots of spice in the form of black pepper as well as mocha notes that really emerge in a big way once this wine opens up, bringing to mind chocolate covered blackberries.

What I like best about this Zinfandel is how well balanced it is, featuring excellent acidity. The four years of aging before release seem to have suited this wine very well. It nicely layered with good fruit and spice components and several layers of complexity. Harmonious is the word that comes to mind most when reflecting on this selection. As indicated above, less than 600 cases of this wine were produced. If you're a fan of well made Zinfandel that will complement a wide array of food, this is one to get your hands on. Kudos to Barra of Mendocino.

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Valley of the Moon Winery - 2005 Zinfandel

The first wine I'm looking at during The 12 Days of Zin is a widely available release from Sonoma County. Valley of The Moon Winery is based in Glen Ellen California. They produce an array of varietal offerings, as well as several proprietary blends. While the winery has been in existence since the late 1800's, a 1997 revitalization and modernization found it recommitted as a current wine making house. The 2005 Valley of the Moon Zinfandel is 95% varietal with 5% Petite Sirah blended in. 36% of the fruit comes from Dry Creek Valley with the remainder coming from Sonoma Valley in general. The wine was aged for 16 months in a combination of French (60%) and American (40%) oak barrels. Just over 10,000 cases of this wine were made and the suggested retail price is $16.

Tons of jammy fruit in the form of blackberry and plum notes fill the nose. I found this wine to be pretty accessible right out of the bottle. That said, 30 minutes in the decanter took it to a more open and expressive place. The palate is filled with an avalanche of sweet berry fruit from the first sip through the finish. Blackberry pie notes in particular come out strongly in the mid-palate. Vanilla, spice and earth are the main components of a finish that's above average in length.

What I like best about this Zinfandel is that is successfully straddles the stylistic line. Up front it's jam laden with tons of fruit but that's balanced by solid acidity and capped with a solid finish. The Petite Sirah that's blended in adds backbone, structure and a dollop of deep, dark fruit undertones.

While this wine retails for $16, it can often be found for a few dollars less. In its price range this is a good wine and nice value, offering solid varietal character and sufficient complexity.

Up Next In the 12 Days of Zin: Barra of Mendocino 2004 Zinfandel

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12 Days of Zinfandel

Coming up next is what's going to total out to 24 days of Zinfandel coverage. The first 12 Days will start next and continue through the middle of the month. Then a few other wines will be covered followed by 12 MORE Days of Zin towards the end of the month. Over 40 Zinfandel's will be covered ranging from commonly available wines produced in large quantities to small productions from boutique and medium sized wineries. Many different growing areas in California will be represented. So strap yourself in and grab a glass of ZIN! Check out ZAP The Group dedicated to Zinfandel.

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Winemaker Dinner; Renae Hirsch of Henry's Drive

Last week I had the opportunity to taste through the Henry's Drive wines at dinner in New York City with their winemaker Renae Hirsch. Within the last year she's become the head Winemaker there. Throughout dinner Renae told us about Henry's Drive vineyards, their wine-making philosophy and a good deal about making wine in Australia in general. Most people are likely familiar with the Pillar Box series of wines. Pillar Box Red has been around quite a few years longer than its counterparts. What the Pillar Box wines have in common are the quality and value they represent at a very low price point. With 500 acres in their estate, Henry's Drive has control over quite a bit of fruit.

The wines of the evening were:

Pillar Box White- This blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Verdelho can often be found on shelves for under $10. The 2007 was being tasted. I found it to be crisp and fresh with some tangy and mineral notes on the finish. A nice wine to sip on it's own, especially while it's still nice out.

Pillar Box Red- This blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot was my first exposure to the Henry's Drive wines a few years back. As with the white the 2007 was being poured. I found it to be jammy up front with gamey red notes on the mid-palate through the finish. White pepper notes stood out as one of the hallmarks of a nice tingly finish. In comparison to other vintages of this release I've had the 2007 struck me as smoother and a bit more layered. For around $10, this has been an excellent value for several years now and that continues with the current vintage

Pillar Box Reserve - Unlike the other two wines in the Pillar Box line, the reserve is 100% Shiraz. The fruit characteristics on this 2007 wine were very dark, much more so than the Pillar Box Red. It ‘s also less jammy, even smoother and featuring quite a bit of black pepper. Suggested retail price is $19.99

The Trial of John Montford- The 2006 release is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Wild blackberry and brambly earth notes fill the nose. Typically jammy as much Australian Cabernet can be. Not overly jammy though as it features excellent acidity which provides very nice balance. Smooth and fairly silky, this is an impressive effort for the $29.99 Suggested Retail price.

Dead Letter Office- This 2006 Shiraz has fruit from both Padthaway (33%) and Mclaren Vale (67%). Of the wines I tasted at this dinner this one struck me as the least immediately accessible. It needed more time to really open up than the rest. Decanting this for an hour ore more would be recommended. Otherwise another 6 months to a year of age should really help it come into its own. Once it did open up, lots of fresh red raspberry and bing cherry was accompanied by subtle spice and light vanilla notes. $26.99 Suggested retail price on this one.

Henry's Drive Shiraz - This 2006 Shiraz was sourced from older estate vineyards than the Pillar Box Reserve. It features a lot of dark berry fruit and an undercurrent of mocha on the finish accompanied by a clingy tart note that rides out on the back of the throat for awhile. $34.99 SRP.

Parson's Flat- 65% Shiraz 35% Cabernet Sauvignon make up this 2005 estate blend. Cab & Shiraz are natural partners in Australia, Perhaps as much as Cabernet & Merlot are in France. They work well in this blend. Berry, mocha and spice fill the nose and palate of this wine. It's was a bit reticent at first but opened up nicely as the evening progressed. Significant, velvety tannins are this offerings hallmark. It should be able to improve for several years and drink nicely for 4 or 5 after that. Nice effort. $39.99 SRP.

Henry's Drive Reserve Shiraz - This single vineyard wine from 2006 is filled with chocolate covered blackberry notes in the nose and early to mid-palate. The finish brings out significant spice and lingering notes of dried berry fruit. $49.99 SRP.

Tasting these wines with Persian food at Shalizar worked well. The potpourri of flavors on the table were well matched by what was being poured. The Henry's Drive wines are well made and fairly priced at their different tiers. What I like best about this portfolio of wines is that they manage to have a connective tissue or house style that ties them to each other, but they manage to be distinct in their own right. To my taste that house style is of wines filled with ripe, full flavored fruit that fill your senses but never overburden the palate or feel too "in your face." They are by and large balanced by good acidity and all work well with food. Most of their fruit is from their own Estate Vineyards which allows them to control quality year in and year out. That difference is especially felt in a wine like Pillar Box Red. Often wines in that price category vary wildly from year to year as many vintners are making them from whatever fruit they find on the market that year. By controlling almost all of their own fruit and buying the rest from friends they are assured of a quality level each year.

Speaking with Renae throughout the evening it's clear she's looking to continue the style in place at the winery and make the best wines the fruit allows her to each vintage. Whether you're looking to head out to a Barbecue and bring a fun wine such as one of the Pillar Box selections, explore Australian Shiraz a cut above or tuck something away to see how it ages, Henry's Drive has some fine, interesting and most importantly well made selections to offer.

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Biondi Santi - 2001 Brunello di Montalcino

Fittingly the last wine this week from Biondi Santi is their Brunello di Montalcino. This is perhaps their best known offering year after year and one of the legendary releases to emerge from Italy annually. The 2001 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino is 100% Sangiovese Grosso. Vineayrds sources for this offering are between 10 and 25 years old. This selection was aged in Slavonian oak for 3 years followed by a minimum of 4 months bottle refining. 4750 cases of this Brunello were produced and the suggested retail price is $190.

Not surprisingly this wine is very reticent at first. If you're thinking about drinking it now, decant it for 10-12 hours. As it opens the nose shows cherry, eucalyptus, vanilla and cedar notes. Spice is the hallmark of the mid-palate with nutmeg and pepper as the main attractions. These spices are accompanied by fresh fruit flavors of red plum, bing cherry and light wild strawberry. The finish is very long and persistent with spice, earth and terrific mineral notes that cling to the back of the throat as this one closes out. This is is a rich, full flavored wine that should be paired with an equally opulent meal. Osso Buco, Grilled Tuscan Steak and Shepherds Pie come to mind as obvious complements.

What I like best about this wine is the tremendous finish that goes on for a long time, offering great complexity. Right now, though, this wine is a baby. My recommendation would be to sock a couple of these away for an anniversary or other special occasion 15 or more years down the road. By then this wine will have had a chance to resolve itself, secondary flavors will be more developed and it will be more impressive all around. As noted above if you do decide to drink it anytime soon, decant it for at least 10 hours. A tremendous example of a benchmark Brunello in a very good vintage. Kudos to Biondi Santi.

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Biondi Santi - 2003 Rosso di Montalcino

The last two selections I'm looking at this week from Biondi Santi are from the legendary estate itself. This winery is not only a well known and regarded Italian Estate but a crucial player in the establishment of Brunello di Montalcino as a region. Today's selection is a Rosso di Montalcino. The 2003 Biondi Santi Rosso di Montalcino is 100% Sangiovese Grosso. Aging occurred in Slavonian oak for 12 months, followed by 4 months in bottle. Approximately 1,500 cases of this wine are produced each year. The suggested retail price for this offering is $75. Checking wine-searcher shows it's often available for about $10 less.

This Rosso di Montalcino has a heavily perfumed, concentrated nose featuring vanilla, violets, subtle strawberry notes and a touch of earth emerging once it's had a chance to open up. Decanting for an hour at minimum is highly recommended. Dried wild strawberry is prominent from the first sip onward. The mid-palate adds dried cherry and red raspberry notes, accompanied by subtle nutmeg, which carries through to the finish. Speaking of the finish, it's intense, persistent and has more forceful and obvious spice notes. Not surprisingly as with many well made Italian wines this offering is built to pair with food. Spit roasted lamb with rosemary would by my first choice. Failing that, other grilled or roasted meats will be a fine choice as well.

As with the wines from sister winery Villa Poggio Salvi, this selection has excellent acidity and balance. The oak influence is detectable but not obtrusive, adding complexity as it should. This wine will age effortlessly for at least a decade, probably a bit longer.

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Poggio di Salvi - 2000 Brunello di Montalcino

The third wine from Poggio Di Salvi I'm looking at is the first of two Brunellos. The other one is from Biondi Santi itself. Notes on that are coming up over the next few days. Brunello stands with Barolo and Barberesco as one of the triumvirate of most esteemed Italian Wines. There are restrictions on varietal, aging and the like on all of these wines to make sure, among other things, that quality in these regions stays consistent. All three can be tremendous wines with terrific aging potential when done right. The 2000 Poggio di Salvi Brunello di Montalcino is 100% Sangiovese Grosso. The grapes chosen for this particular offering are from a group of south west facing vines, all at more than 1,100 feet above sea level. It spent 30 months in Slavonian oak barrels and a minimum of 6 months in bottle before its release. Approximately 6,000 cases of this wine are made each year. This has a suggested retail price in the mid $70's but can be found for closer to $60.

This 2000 Brunello is incredibly perfumed with notes of violets, leather, cherry and cedar. From the first sip onward dried fruit notes, including sour cherry and red raspberry, are among the hallmark characteristics of this wine. Vanilla appears as a subtle undertone throughout. The finish on this wine is very long and persistent; spice, earth and fruit making their presence known. This will be a good match for mushroom risotto, strong cheeses, and slow-cooked, full flavored meats.

The 2000 Poggio di Salvi Brunello di Montalcino is built with layer upon layer of complexity. It evolves throughout an evening, revealing an impressive structure, refined power and elegance.

What I like best about his Brunello is that it's full flavored, rich and mouth-filling while never straying close to being too big, or in your face, in style. It is in fact impeccably balanced with tremendous acidity. Between that and the rich fruit, this wine has a nice long shelf life ahead of it. This promises to improve for the next 10-12 years and drink well for 5 or more after that, if not longer. At $60 or so this may not be a choice as an everyday drinker for most people. However, this is a great one to tuck away for a holiday or special occasion.

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Villa Poggio Salvi - 2003 Rosso di Montalcino

Montalcino is one of the best known and most highly regarded wine regions in both Italy and the Wine world at large. Brunello is of course the type of wine most associated with Montalcino. However, several other offerings come from this region. There are different criteria placed upon aging and handling in regard to wines which are not Brunello di Montalcino. The next and second most popular designation is Rosso di Montalcino. The wine I'll look at today from Villa Poggio Salvi is such a wine. The 2003 Villa Poggio SalviRosso di Montalcino is of course 100% Sangiovese Grosso as per regulation. The fruit was handpicked and spent 12 month in Slavonian  oak. 4 months of bottle fining followed. Approximately 2,000 cases of this wine are produced each year. The suggested retail price is $32.

A ton of cherry and vanilla fill the nose of this Rosso di Montalcino along with a subtle violet undertone.  This wine is filled with spice notes throughout the complex palate. Dried raspberry, cherry and a touch of earth fill this offerings mid-palate. This is a full flavored, medium bodied wine. The long, layered finish is also loaded with spice character, particularly white pepper, along with earthy mushroom notes.

What I like best about this wine is how much bang it offers for the price. It may be a Rosso di Montalcino but it has the layers and structure of many Brunello's. Decanting this wine for an hour at minimum is strongly recommended. While this is drinking very well now, I'd expect it to improve for 5-6 years and drink well for another 4 or 5 after that.

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Villa Poggio Salvi - 2006 Merlot

The diversity of wines coming from Italy surely rivals, if not tops, that of almost any wine producing nation. Aside from the classic and widely known grapes and styles there are literally hundreds of varietals throughout the country. Over the course of this week I'll look at a number of releases from legendary producer Biondi Santi and their sister winery Villa Poggio Salvi. These will lean towards classic, well known grapes. Villa Poggio Salvi's2006 Lavischio Merlot is 100% varietal. The grapes for this wine come from estate vineyards in the Monteriggioni region. The wine spends three months in oak and annual production is right around 3,000 cases. The suggested retail price for this wine is just under $30. Check wine-searcher though and it can be found for closer to $20.

The nose of this merlot presents cherry, plum, vanilla and cedar notes. 45 minutes to an hour in the decanter helped this wine come into its own, as it was pretty closed and tight at first. Once it blossoms the Poggio Salvi Merlot proves to be a medium bodied offering with loads of sour cherry in both the entry and mid-palate. Vanilla notes that came out in the nose are more prominent by the end of the mid-palate and carry through to the finish along with some secondary earthiness and a touch of white pepper. This wine has excellent acidity and will be an outstanding match for hard cheeses or a classic Italian Sunday Dinner of pasta with red sauce.

What I like best about this selection is how smooth, silky and easy to drink it is. This 2006 Merlot is a wine made in it's local style that speaks of the place it comes from. The 2006 Villa Poggio Salvi Merlot is not built for long term aging and should be consumed in its youth for maximum enjoyment. Drink it over the next couple of years.

Imported by Shaw-Ross International Importers.

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Artesa Winery - 2006 Carneros Estate Reserve Pinot Noir

The last wine from Artesa Winery I'm looking at right now is their 2006 Reserve Carneros Pinot Noir. Coming up in the near future I'll look at a couple from one of their sister Wineries. I first had this particular Pinot a couple of months back at a large scale tasting. It left an impression and I made a note to re-taste it and take a closer look. Just over 3,000 cases of the Artesa Winery 2006 Carneros Estate Reserve Pinot Noir were produced. The grapes were harvested from Artesa's best Pinot Noir blocks and aged in French Oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is $40.

Dark cherry, violets, spice and palpable mineral notes make up the nose of this wine. My first sip found the wine to be a bit reticent. I returned to it after decanting for 45 minutes and found it had really started to blossom. Dried raspberry, nutmeg and an earthy mushroom undertone come out throughout the palate. This Pinot Noir won't hit you over the head; rather its subtle charms sneak up on you and steal your attention with its complex, layered impressive palate. This continues through a finish that's well above average in length and an impressive microcosm of the rest of the wine. Subtle dark cherry, spice notes and persistent earth are the notes that stay the longest. This Pinot Noir has excellent structure and good acidity. It drinks incredibly well on its own and will pair with many diverse dishes.

What I like best about this offering is that it fulfills the promise of the high quality Pinot Noir that can emerge from Carneros, one of the handful of classic Pinot Noir growing regions in California.

Look for this wine to improve over the next 2-3 years and drink well for at least 2-4 after that. An excellent Pinot Nor, and my favorite of the Artesa selections I looked at these last few days.

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Artesa Winery - Chardonnays

Artesa Winery has three Chardonnays amongst its offerings. Two are widely available, while a third is a more limited release. I'll look at two of them today, both from the 2006 vintage. The first Chardonnay is from their classic tier. The 2006 Chardonnay Carneros is the largest Chardonnay bottling Artesa produces. More than 30,000 cases of this wine were made. The fruit was hand harvested and 50% of it was barrel fermented. This wine is generally available for approximately $15.

The nose of this wine is loaded with baked granny smith apple, vanilla and nutmeg notes. From the very first sip through the palate apple notes are the most dominant. An undercurrent of citrus comes out in a subtle manner as well. Spice notes carry through the palate as well, along with gentle but persistent acidity. The finish of this wine is above average. Lingering apple pie spice notes are accompanied by a lighter, buttery undertone.

What I like best about this wine is it's versatility It's crisp and refreshing enough to drink on it's own but has enough layers, complexity and overall stuffing to pair with poultry, seared pork or cream based dishes. For about $15 this is a nice value.

The second Artesa Winery Chardonnay is the 2006 Carneros Estate Reserve. The production on this one was just over 3,000 cases.  Half of the wine spent over 9 months in new French oak. The suggested retail on the reserve in $26.

The nose of the reserve presents apple, vanilla and strong smoke characteristics. The palate has scone and biscuit note along with continued apple, spice and smoke. Nutmeg, apple, subtle Asian pear and apple pie crust notes dot the persistent, layered, lengthy finish.

The oak treatment on this wine makes itself known in several of the flavor components but it's unobtrusive. Compared to the other Chardonnay, the reserve is more structured and far more tightly wound.

What I like best about the reserve Chardonnay is that it's modestly priced for a reserve, especially one I'd feel comfortable tucking away in my cellar for 3-5 years.

Both of these Artesa wines are fine examples of Chardonnay. The question comes down to what type of Chardonnay you like. The first one with it's Carneros designation is a great choice for everyday drinking and offers a lot of pleasure. The reserve veers towards, but short of, being in the "California-style" with it's buttery and oak influenced notes. Personally I lean towards the Carneros over the reserve, but both are well made and fairly priced.

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Artesa Winery -2005 Napa Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Today's selection is the second Cabernet Sauvigon I'm looking at from Artesa Winery. They makes several others in addition to this and the one I looked at earlier. While the one I looked at previously blended Napa & Sonoma fruit, this one is entirely from Napa Valley. Fruit was handpicked from estate vineyards based on the winemakers selections for this reserve wine. The 2005 Napa Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon was aged in 60% new French oak for 21 months. Small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Malbec were added to the final blend. Just under 9,000 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $40.

This wine from Artesa has explosive, chocolate covered black cherry notes in the nose. I found this wine to be, not surprisingly, tight out of the bottle. If you plan to drink this now I'd recommend decanting it for an hour at minimum, two would be better. Once it opens up the nose also reveals some subtle earth notes. Dark berry fruits, spice notes, earth and mocha pack the palate of this wine with flavor. This is a layered wine with tremendous complexity. Earth and spice linger in an above average finish. The Artesa Reserve Cabernet is a full bodied, full flavored wine befitting it's Napa Valley pedigree.

This wine is well balanced and has an excellent tannic structure. I'd expect it to improve over the next 7-8 years and drink well for another 3-5 after that. I went back to this wine after it had been open for a full 24 hours, it was even more impressive. Excellent effort here from Artesa Winery.

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Artesa Winery - 2006 Carneros Pinot Noir

Carneros bridges the southern part of Napa and Sonoma Valleys. It's a distinct cooler climate AVA than most other parts of either valley. While many other grape varietals are planted and sometimes prosper there Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are their bread butter, not to mention stand out varieties. As I mentioned the other day Artesa Winery makes several examples of each. Today's wine is a Pinot Noir from their Classic Tier. The 2006 Carneros Pinot Noir from Artesa Winery was made from hand harvested fruit. The juice was aged in French oak barrels. Just under 13,000 cases of this wine was produced and the suggested retail price is $25.

The Artesa Winery Carneros Pinot Noir is reticent at first, needing some air before it begins to fully emote. 45 minutes in the decanter seemed to do the trick and then it was fully expressive. Major black cherry and vanilla notes are the stars of an inviting nose. Taking the first sip, dark cherry and subtle strawberry notes, followed by star anise, highlight the solidly fruity, lush mid-palate. These characteristics carry though the finish which also features an emerging earthiness, mushroom, clove spice and light lingering toast.. Within the world of Pinot Noir this is a medium bodied wine. It's balanced by terrific acidity.

What I like best about this offering is that it's a Pinot Noir made in the proper fashion. Oak influence is present, but never overwhelming. The soft, layered fruit is allowed to be the star. This is a Pinot Noir to drink in the first 3-4 years of its life. This offering is enjoyable on its own and will also be an excellent match for many lighter meals, particularly mushroom based dishes.

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