Ravenswood - 2006 Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel

Ravenswood has a long history with Zinfandel. It’s how Joel Peterson made his bones; and while they make many other wines now, Zinfandel is still very much their core. Vineyard Designates, County Series wines, state wide cuvee’s and more make up the array of Zinfandel offerings that Ravenswood produces annually. Each series or tier has different intents and aims in mind. The Vineyard Designated wines for instance are aimed at more seasoned wine drinkers who know Zinfandel pretty well and already understand to some degree, or want to experience that site to site diversity. Today I’ll look at one of the County Series wines. This tier is aimed at the everyday consumer who wants a glass of wine for dinner but needs to keep the cost modest. Wines in this series are often also excellent choices to bring to a large gathering. The 2006 Ravenswood Lodi Old Vine Zinfandel has Petite Sirah (21%) and Carignane (1%) blended in. This selection spent 18 months in 24-30% new French oak barrels. 84,000 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $12.

Black and red raspberry lead the nose of this Old Vine Zinfandel along with a nice helping of vanilla. The palate is loaded with dark, brooding fruit throughout. There are good elements of jam and hints of licorice as well. Tingly, lingering pepper spice emerges on the finish as well as chocolate notes. The Petite Sirah adds nice backbone to this wine and lends to its firm structure which is complemented by sufficient acidity.

This wine fulfills its intent. With 84,000 cases and a $12 price-point you want an offering that tastes like Zinfandel with Lodi characteristics. This wine achieves that and is a solid entry in the category of wines affordable enough for most to drink everyday. Look around and you’ll find it for closer to $9.

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Moon Mountain Vineyard - 2000 Estate Merlot

I remember the first time I visited Moon Mountain Vineyard in Sonoma pretty distinctly. It was November of 1998; and it was still called Carmenet Winery. I went with my friend Dave with whom I write the website Drink Dry Creek. We were both impressed with the wines and the facility. It became somewhat of a regular stop for me. Their benchmark wine at the time was their Meritage; a Bordeaux style blend. Today it’s labeled as a Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. I believe the intent is the same. In any case they make small quantities of the components that made up the blend. Today I’ll look at such a release from the 2000 Vintage. The 2000 Moon Mountain Vineyard Merlot was produced from fruit in the Feather Block of their Estate Vineyard. This sits on the southwest side of Mount Veeder at a 1,700 foot elevation. The offering is 100% Merlot. Oak aging was accomplished over 21 months in French Barrels. A mere 196 cases of this offering were produced. At release this wine sold for approximately $30.

I recall tucking this Merlot away about 5 years ago and thinking it would have a really positive evolution with some time in the bottle. So when I popped the cork, more than anything, I was curious if it turned out that way or not. The nose of this Merlot was filled with violets, blackberries and subtle plum notes. The palate still had quite a bit of fruit, but it was softer, and more restrained than it had been on release; becoming lush and smooth. Touches of pencil lead emerged, leading to a finish that was loaded with earth, mineral notes, black tea and dusty cocoa. This wine still had good structure and fine acidity.

This is a beautiful expression of well made Merlot produced from Mountain fruit. I was glad to see that time in the bottle served it well. Of course now I wish I had a case of it tucked away, but alas I do not.

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Lucas & Lewellen Vineyards - "Silver King" Port

I drink dessert wine pretty regularly. Most often it's Tawny or Late Bottled Port from Portugal. After that I'm always curious to taste the different styles of Ports and Dessert wines being made in California. When it comes to the Golden State I most often think of Late Harvest Zinfandel. That style seems to be the most ubiquitous expression in California; not surprising when you consider how much Zin there is. The last few years though I've run across a solid handful of folks making Dessert Wine or Port with Merlot. I was a bit dubious at first, but then I had the chance to taste a couple and I found there are some interesting offerings out there. Today I'll look at one from Lucas & Lewellen. The Lucas & Lewellen "Silver King" Port is produced using Merlot grapes sourced at their Los Alamos Vineyards. To that juice, neutral grape spirits are added. 312 cases of this wine were produced. It's available in 375 ml bottles for $20.

As soon as I poured this wine my senses were engulfed with deep, dark, cherry pie aromas. Chocolate dipped fruitcake notes were plentiful throughout the palate along with bountiful black cherry characteristics that kept resonating. The finish of this Port had a touch of perceptible heat. In this particular case it worked really well and provided hints of Cherry Liqueur. That finish coated the back of my throat with a thick honey-like consistency in it's mouth-feel. This wine could easily have been dessert on its own. I paired it with dark chocolate covered biscotti and found that to be a ridiculously delicious match.

What I like best about this particular port is that it's unique. While the number of dessert wines made from Merlot is increasing it's still a small segment of the whole. The fact that it stands out from the pack is reason enough to seek it out so you can have a different experience. The main reason though is that it's well made and delicious.

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Martin Ray Winery - 2005 Synthesis Cabernet Sauvignon

A winery the size of Martin Ray makes many releases with large, sometimes huge case productions. So it's always interesting and informative to also look at what they're doing on a smaller scale. Today I'll look at such a selection from them. The Martin Ray 2005 Synthesis Cabernet Sauvignon is made from fruit sourced in three locations. The vast majority of the fruit is from Napa Valley; 67% from Diamond Mountain and 23% from Stags Leap District. The remaining 10% was sourced in the Sonoma Mountain Appellation. This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Oak aging was accomplished with 34 months in French barrels. A tiny 103 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $75.

It's important to mention immediately that this wine really needs to be decanted if you're going to drink it any time soon. An hour really helps, two hours would be even better. Once you've given it that time to aerate, this Cabernet is going to really be ready to perform. The nose is very expressive and filled with aromas of ripe summer berries, underscored by hints of vanilla. The Diamond Mountain fruit which represents more than two thirds of this cuvée really shines through with purity and intensity of flavor through the palate. Immense layers of dark berry, plum and bakers chocolate notes are accompanied by flourishes of black olive. Copious earth, black tea, mineral notes and black pepper emerge in a very nice and lingering finish. This wine has firm tannins that soften as the wine evolves, and solid acidity.

By combining fruit from three distinct parts of Napa and Sonoma Martin Ray has created a Cabernet blend with diverse elements that come together nicely as one. While this wine is delicuous now I expect it to evolve over the next 8 or so years and drink well for several after that. I went back to this Cabernet after it had been open for a full 24 hours and found it to be even tastier and more expressive than it was on the first day.

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Tasting At Regusci Winery

The Regusci Family has a long tradition of wine-making in Napa Valley. It dates all the way back to 1932 in fact. However the current incarnation of Regusci Winery in Stags Leap didn’t open its doors to the public until 1998. That was a couple of years after their first crush as a reborn winery. I’d visited their tasting room a few times before, but not for several years. This trip I decided to make stopping there a priority so I could see what they’re up to these days. In general they offer two tasting flights, Current Release ($15) and Heritage Wines ($25). If you take the second flight the first is also included. The current release flight offers three wines and the Heritage Flight adds two, though they often throw a bonus in somewhere.

The Regusci tasting roomhas a warm, inviting and somewhat rustic atmosphere. The folks behind the tasting bar are very friendly and welcoming; they also know the Regusci Wines inside out. That said they’re very good at not shoving too much knowledge down your throat too soon. In some tasting rooms it seems the person wants to tell you what you’re going to taste or experience before you take your first sip. This of course puts that suggestion in your head and you’re more likely to think you taste it, even if you don’t. The folks at Regusci don’t do this. In my opinion they carefully and deftly balance the line; offering as much information as they find each taster is looking for. Questions are answered cheerfully. They pipe in with their opinions when you ask, making it clear just because it’s how they feel, it’s not necessarily how someone on the other side of the counter will. And while that may seem like a simple thing, and it should be, it’s often not the case in some tasting rooms.

Stags Leaps District wines, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon, can be wildly expensive. That’s another area in which I think Regusci Winery does a rally nice job. While they do have some more expensive offerings the current Stags Leap releases I tasted were good values. Their 2006 Merlot is a well structured wine that demands attention. It’s loaded with rich berry fruit and dusty layers of chocolate and spice. While $40 might not be everyday drinking for most people this is a serious Merlot. Their Estate Cabernet Sauvignon sold for $48 and was equally impressive. Cherry fruit notes were most prominent. The finish was long and persistent. Cabernet Sauvignon of equivalent quality from Stags Leap is often far more expensive than this offering from Regusci.

Their Heritage Wines which are more expensive were also interesting to taste. The 2006 Patriarch is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (64%), Merlot (27%) and Cabernet Franc (9%). This is an intense and immense wine. It’s loaded with berry flavors, good tannic structure and layers of earth. This one had me craving a T-Bone. This offering sells for $80 and should simply get better with some time in the bottle. I wouldn’t drink it for 5 years and then I’d enjoy it sometime over the following 6 or 7. This would be a good choice to tuck away for a special occasion or holiday dinner somewhere down the road.

In total I tasted 6 wines at Regusci during my recent trip. Each of them was well made and pretty tasty. The ones I mentioned above stood out most to me. The Merlot was my overall favorite. If you like Stags Leap District wines Regusci Winery is a really nice, as well as, casual stop. They’re open daily and no appointment is necessary for a tasting. Being right on Silverado Trail they’re quick and easy to find too. Well worth some time.

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Visiting Gargiulo Vineyards

Whenever I travel to Napa or other Wine Regions I’m always looking to check out producers I haven’t visited before. Often times I get recommendations when I’m out and about tasting. What I find really interesting is that just about every trip there is one place that seems to have some undercurrent of buzz about it. No matter where I go or who I speak to eventually it seems that folks get around to mentioning a specific winery. This trip I lost track of how many folks suggested I check out Gargiulo Vineyards. The people making the suggestion ranged from individuals at other wineries to folks I tasted side by side with elsewhere. After a couple of days of hearing about them, the groundswell building in my head convinced me to go see what they had going on; so I called and scheduled an appointment. Gargiulo is a boutique family owned Napa Valley Estate Winery. They produce 3,500 cases of wine, primarily from two separate Estate Vineyards in Oakville; one at their Winery site right on Oakville Crossroad near Silverado Trail and one on Money Road. In addition to Bordeaux Varietals they have Sangiovese and Pinot Grigio planted as well.

When I arrived at Gargiulo Vineyards I was immediately taken by the lovely and welcoming grounds. I made my way to the tasting room which was incredibly comfortable and warm, with rustic flourishes. In one corner a handful of guitars stood on their stands. Apparently everyone who knows how to play is welcome to pick one up and strum. All of these things come together to form a tranquil space to spend some time and yes, taste wine in.

The first wine we were poured was the Rosato di Sangiovese. This dry Rosé was refreshing and an excellent way to get things going. Tastings at Gargiulo are by appointment. Once everyone who was going to be in my tasting group settled in we sat around a nice large square table with ultra comfortable chairs. We were then led through our wines by a member of the Gargiulo team. The second wine we tasted was accompanied by a dish of morsels for each guest to munch on. Olives, cheese, nuts and more made up the treats on hand. That second wine Aprile, was my overall favorite. This offering, named for the owner’s daughter is a blend of Sangiovese (97%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (3%). They call this their Super Oakville Blend which is a nod to the Super Tuscan blends that inspired it. What impressed me about this offering was its combination of complexity, length, drink-ability and good acidic structure. This is a classic food wine and I was craving a dish of pasta.

After that we tasted a Merlot and several Cabernet Sauvignons. I’m happy to report that there wasn’t a clunker in the bunch. Each wine was a fine example of Oakville fruit and the varietal in question. I was particularly impressed with the Merlot which was made with structure, length and most importantly true varietal character. When they are well made Merlots appeal to people who like Cabernet Sauvignon. The Money Road Ranch offering from Gargiulo is such a Merlot. The Cabernets were nice too and each had the stuffing to age for a number of years. Each of the Gargiulo wines I tasted was well made and would match well with typically appropriate cuisine.

After we’d gone through all the wines we took a tour of the grounds and the winemaking facilities. This being Oakville, Gargiulo has some pretty well known neighbors surrounding them; Screaming Eagle is amongst them.

In addition to the tasting I attended Gargiulo offers some other options. At least one of them includes Lunch prepared by owner Jeff Gargiulo. I found the wines, surroundings, people and overall tasting experience at Gargiulo to be an excellent and impressive one. More and more wineries are doing sit down tastings by appointment these days. Some of them work very well and some fall flat, the one at Gargiulo is a keeper.

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Visiting Terra Valentine

One of the great things about visiting Wine Country is the number of stories and history each Winery has. While these vary greatly, one of particular interest is that of Terra Valentine. While that winery as an entity only dates back to 1999, their facility has a much longer and pretty fascinating back story. The building that is the Terra Valentine Winery as well as a guest cottage on their property were both built by original owner Fred Aves. Over many years he built everything by hand. This included stained glass windows, doors, cast metal stairs, a multitude of stonework and much more. Visiting Terra Valentine is a fascinating insight into the vision of an iconoclast and his singular drive to create something unique. Fred Aves did make wine at the winery which he called Yverdon, for a number of years. But he was a reclusive fellow and didn’t really share his craft or his creations with many.

About a decade ago Angus and Margaret Wurtele discovered the property up for sale after Fred had passed on. They purchased it and spent time cleaning it up and adding modern winery equipment. While they make a number of other wines the focus at Terra Valentine is on Cabernet Sauvignon. They make several single vineyard designates both from the property the winery sits on and another Spring Mountain District parcel the Wurtele’s own.

Each of the Cabernet’s I tried was delicious and well made. Amore, their blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon really stood out to me. It was a classic food wine that paired very well with the bites of food served with the tasting.

Visiting Terra Valentine requires an advance appointment. They have several standard tour times per day. Outside of that they do their best to accommodate visitor’s needs. Once you’re there you get a tour of the facility while tasting the first wine. The day I went it was a lovely Viognier. Once the tour is over you proceed to a spacious tasting room. There at grand table you sit down and go through quite a few of their other wines. As I mentioned above these are paired with some small bites to nibble on. Overall you spend a bit over an hour there. You’ll get to tour a fascinating and beautiful facility with a unique history and taste some really nice wines. This is an excellent way to spend some time in my book. When you do go, give yourself plenty of time to get there. The road up Spring Mountain is windy and takes longer than the actual distance might seem to indicate.

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Visiting Swanson Vineyards

Someone has to be the best. At the very least, with any interest or passion I have, there needs to be a favorite. It doesn't mean there aren't others I love, but there is always one that for some reason has something on the others. Ask me who my favorite ballplayer is and there will be no space from the time you ask until the name "Don Mattingly," rolls off my tongue. I love many Yankees a lot, but Donnie Baseball is number one for me. The same is true of wineries, tasting rooms and wine tasting experiences. There are many regions I adore and a ton of wineries doing a terrific job in each of them. But if you ask me what my favorite is, the one that gets me back every time I'm in the area, the answer is Swanson Vineyards. They also happen to make some of my favorite wines in Napa. Which came first, the chicken or the egg? In this case I'm not sure. But I can tell you that if I didn't love the Swanson Wines it wouldn't matter how good the tasting experience was, eventually, I'd get bored. Because let's face it, wine is the reason I'm in Napa to begin with. Swanson Vineyards doesn't have a tasting room per se. What they do have is a facility in front of their Winery known as the Salon. Decadence with a wink is their stock in trade. And believe me they do that as well as it can be done. Tastings are by appointment and come in standard (Jean Lafite) for $30, or reserve (Harvey) for $55. Both tastings are similar in style the difference being the selection of wines being poured. Swanson has three wines that see wide distribution, Pinot Grigio, Alexis (Cabernet Sauvignon) and Merlot their workhorse which represents 2/3 of their production. The bevy of other wines they make, including an entire line of dessert wines (up to 8 at any one time) are mostly aimed at their wine club and tasting guests.

At most eight guests are accommodated at one time for a tasting at Swanson. The moment you arrive and park your car someone will greet you warmly before you reach the gate. More often than not, they come bearing Rosato, their dry Rosé made of Syrah. As you're ushered into the Salon it's like a trip into a good friends home. The Salon is an absolutely gorgeous and serene environment. In the center of it all is a table that looks to be setup for a dinner party. As people arrive they're allowed to settle in and sit at their leisure. At that point the Salonier (host or hostess) will tell you a bit about the winery and take you through the wines on tap for that day. The Harvey tasting which is the one I tend towards usually features 7 wines. Truth be told, they often throw an extra one in during the proceedings if things are rolling. What I mean by that is cross talk and fraternization amongst the guests who have just met, and with the host are both highly encouraged. Great groups inspire more of the host and enthusiastic crews often get a bonus. Each wine has something to pair it with. At my my most recent visits, several were matched with cheeses, one with caviar on a potato chip and one with a signature bon bon. The wines poured and what they're matched with change; however the Merlot and Alexis are almost always part of the mix.

It's been my pleasure to be in the Swanson Salon with just about every size group. That includes with just myself and the host on a quiet winter afternoon and most often as was the case today with a full house. Both experiences are terrific, but when the room is full with the right people as it was today with myself and some lovely folks from North Carolina things reach a higher plane. As I said above, this all wouldn't matter much if the wines weren't excellent, which they most certainly are. Swanson is the largest producer of Estate Merlot in Napa and theirs is one to be reckoned with. It has structure, length and a load of flavor. Having had it over the last decade this wine is always delicious upon release but personally I like it better with about 5 or 6 years of age on it. If you lean towards Cabernet Sauvignon, you'll like the Swanson Merlot. The Chardonnay is hands down my favorite Chardonnay in Napa Valley. The production is tiny and aimed at the wine club; ask nicely and they'll sell you some at the Salon. Other wines such as small production Petite Sirah and Sangiovese are also full flavored expressions of each varietal. I'm a sucker for good Petite Sirah and I always look forward to my shipment from Swanson. The dessert wines are so varied in range and style that they deserve their own article. The Swanson dessert offerings are made of everything from Chardonnay to Petite Sirah; my personal favorite is Angelica which is made from Mission grapes.

If having a great time, making new friends, drinking elegant wines perfectly paired with little morsels to munch on, in a warm, welcoming enviornment isn't your idea of a good time, then by all means don't go to Swanson Vineyards. But if you're like the other 99.9999999% of us then you need to go to Swanson Vineyards Salon. Imagine the liveliest and most memorable dinner party you've ever been to. Now add amazing wine and you might start to get the idea.  Like I always tell my friends who are travelling to Napa, "If You've been to Napa Valley but you haven't been to Swanson, you really haven't been to Napa Valley."

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Visiting Fontanella Family Winery

When I got up this morning I had no plans to visit Fontanella Family Winery. In fact, I wasn't familiar with them. That all changed pretty quickly. For the second time in a few months I had the opportunity to spend some time with Peter Rubissow of Rubissow Wines. It was once again an excellent time; a detailed report of my first visit to Rubissow is available. The offshoot of all that is that Peter recommended Fontanella. I headed straight to their tasting room a bit further down the hill on Mount Veeder when I left Peter. Karen Fontanella greeted me warmly when I arrived. I got a brief history of their winery which is a pretty new operation. Work on their tasting room was completed just about a year ago in the summer of 2008. They've been pouring wines there by appointment ever since. We went through their current releases which are made from purchased fruit. They have extensive plans to plant on their own property in the area surrounding the winery and tasting room. For now though they have sourced their fruit from sources they are familiar with, both friends and others. While there is quite a bit of Mount Veeder fruit in their wines they also source in Calistoga, Rutherford and Carneros. Once their vines are planted and bearing fruit they will ultimately make Mount Veeder Appellation wines.

Jeff Fontanella is the winemaker and he founded this winery along with his wife Karen. His prior wine-making experience includes work at Opus One, ZD Wines and Saddleback. Along the way he picked up a host of experience which helped him hone his craft and find his personal sweet spot in terms of wine-making style and philosophy. I didn't get to meet Jeff this time out but his wines spoke for him, quite loudly:

The 2007 Fontanella Chardonnay is an even split of Carneros and Mount Veeder Fruit. This Chardonnay reminded me of the Van Halen song "Ain't Talkin' 'bout Love." Specifically when David Lee Roth sings, "I've been to the edge, and there I stood and looked down." The reason for that is that this wine really skated the oak edge for me. I found it had just enough oak treatment to add layers of complexity and make it really interesting to drink and contemplate, but not enough to bog it down or mask the fruit. The nose of this wine is very expressive and the finish has a nice rich and creamy edge. The wine retails for $30.

The 2006 Fontanella Cabernet Sauvugnon is made from Rutherford (86%) and Mount Veeder (16%) fruit. More than anything I was salivating, hoping someone would show up with some fork tender Filet Mignon when I tasted this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. As there was no grill in sight I was left to think about this wine. It's a well structured wine that features lots of berry fruit flavors and firm but yielding tannins. Rutherford dust, baker's chocolate are out in force on the finish along with some espresso notes. This is a really nice Cabernet that should improve with some bottle age. It sells for $55.

The 2007 Fontanella Zinfandel is made up of Calistoga (67%) and Mount Veeder (33%) fruit If I wanted to sit in the corner, sip wine and contemplate life this Zinfandel would be a good choice. It has a big, bold, hedonistic nose that draws you to the glass. Rich, ripe, berry jam fruit notes are copious throughout the palate along with some spice reference points. The finish of this Zin is soft, smooth, silky and of excellent length. As soon as it's fades you'll want another sip.

In addition to these current releases I had the opportunity to taste barrel samples of the Cabernet Sauvignon components for the next release. They seemed to indicate consistency of quality and style, good signs in my book. As I mentioned above to visit Fontanella you need to make an appointment, so keep that in mind before visiting. Picking up the phone to make that call is well worth your time. The tasting room at Fontanella is cozy, welcoming and well appointed. It has a nice view of their property which will be under vine before long. Most importantly the wines are delicious, well made, artisinal offerings that are worth the extra effort to seek out. Karen Fontanella is a very gracious and charming host who will be happy to tell you about the wines and the burgeoning history of their winery. They're already on my short list to revisit on my next trip to Napa as I expect the lovely wines to continue. Special thanks to Peter for the recommendation.

Brancott - 2008 Pinot Grigio

Quick, what grape do you think of when New Zealand comes up in conversation? I'll bet your answer was either Pinot Noir or Sauvignon Blanc. There's good reason for that as it's those two grapes that have really made their mark for New Zealand. But of course they aren't the only two varietals being grown there. Today I'll look at a Pinot Grigio from Brancott. The 2008 Brancott Pinot Grigio is made from fruit that was mostly sourced in Marlborough. The remainder is from the lesser known (to this point) Waipara region. This Pinot Grigio saw no oak treatment. The wine was left on light lees for a period of three months and stirred weekly. The alcohol for this offering is a modest 13% and the suggested retail price is $14.

The hue of this wine is a very light, pale yellow in color. Lemon zest, anjou pear and hints of white pepper are apparent in the expressive nose. Throughout the palate this Pinot Grigio is soft, lush and full of gentle, concentrated flavorful fruit. White peach, hints of tangerine and continued pear are all part of the mix here. Nutmeg, additional white pepper and touches of clove emerge on the finish. This wine has excellent acidity and is a sure bet to match with a wide array of lighter cuisine. I paired it with a chicken and vegetable stir fry and found that it worked quite well.

For $14 (less if you shop around), this wine is a nice value. It exhibits plenty of Pinot Grigio character and has a ton of flavor. Don' be afraid of overbuying this wine, it has the structure and acidity to drink well over the next couple of years. So no need to worry about drinking it all up during summer 2009.

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Simonsig - 2008 Chenin Blanc

A little over a year ago I had the opportunity to taste the Simonsig wines with Pieter Malan of Simonsig Family Vineyards; you can read my report from that lunch here. One of the standout wines was the 2007 Chenin Blanc. So when I had the opportunity to taste the 2008 vintage I was curious to see how it would be and if it would compare, stylistically and quality wise. Chenin Blanc is an important grape for South Africa as it tends to thrive there. The 2008 Sinonsig Family Vineyards Chenin Blanc was made from fruit mostly sourced in the Koelenhof area. This wine is 100% Chenin Blanc. Some of the harvested grapes had developed Botrytis. This "noble rot" is thought of more often when crafting dessert wines. 28,000 cases of this vintage were produced and the suggested retail price is $11.99

Apple, orange blossom and tangerine notes are all part of a bright, expressive, summery nose. The palate of this Chenin Blanc is rich and mouth-filling with creamy notes on the mid-palate that overlay and enhance tons of orchard fruit notes. Those are mostly ripe and bright, but hints of green apple do come through and add an additional dimension. Hazelnut, along with touches of honey emerge on the finish and give this wine hints of sweetness. This offering drinks quite nicely on it's own and there are quite a number of layers to contemplate. However this wine would also be a natural to pair with curry based Indian dishes.

The bottom line for me is that the 2008 Simonsig Chenin Blanc is a lovely expression of the varietal, from one of the key regions for this under-appreciated grape. It's also important to note that this offering is consistent in quality, style and overall value with the 2007 vintage.

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Urraca - 2005 Familia Langley Reserva

Many well known wine regions make blends inspired by the well known examples that come out of Bordeaux. These can fall flat when the winery in question is simply trying to imitate a style. However when a producer aspires to make the best blend possible with the fruit available to them, all the while showing off their terroir, they have a much better chance of hitting the mark. Today I'll look at the third wine from Urraca, which is a Bordeaux style blend. The 2005 Urraca Familia Langley Reserva is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (36%), Malbec (36%), Cabernet Franc (17%) and Merlot (11%). Oak aging was accomplished in a combination of French and American barrels over a period of 18 months. The suggested retail price for this offering is $72.

Leather, vanilla, dark brooding berry and hints of espresso bean are all present in the nose. Lots of plum, blueberry, and a host of dark, ripe, heady berry fruit are prominent throughout the full bodied palate along with plum pudding spice. Sweet dark chocolate notes, black tea, mineral, white pepper, cigar-box and ever emerging earth characteristics come together to form an impressively lengthy finish. This blend has chewy tannins, good acidity and excellent overall structure. Pair it with big, bold foods that can match it's combination of power and elegance. The blend may be made of Old World components, but this is very much a New World wine.

As was the case with the 2005 Primera this wine should be decanted for maximum enjoyment if you're going to drink it in the next couple of years. My advice however is to tuck this away in your cellar and forget about if for the next 5 years or so. Then dig it out and drink it sometime over the next 8-10 years. The Urraca wines I have had are all excellent, well made, "high end" offerings. There are a ton of well priced, well made wines coming from South America in general and Argentina specifically. many of these offer value, and sufficient complexity for everyday drinking. The wines from Urraca aim for a different goal, they shoot for greatness. These delicious, complex wines meet their goal. In my opinion these offerings stand with a handful of other Argentine producers as examples of the best wines they offer.

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Urraca - 2005 Primera

Malbec is more closely identified with Argentina than any other single grape variety. There's good reason for that; while it’s made elsewhere Malbec absolutely flourishes and reaches its apex there. The wide array of styles in which Malbec is made reminds me of how diverse Zinfandel can be in California. Some choose to make it brash and exuberant while others go for more of a refined and elegant style. Each has its benefits. Not surprisingly Urraca Wines has more acres of Malbec under vine than any other varietal. Cabernet Sauvignon is a close second however. Today I’ll look at one of their Malbec based blends.

The 2005 Urraca Primera is a blend of Malbec (70%) and Merlot (30%). Oak treatment was accomplished with 18 months in a combination of French and American barrels. The suggested retail price for this offering is $37.

I highly recommend decanting this selection if you’re going to be drinking it over the next couple of years. An hour is very helpful, and closer to two hours would be even better. Once it’s had that chance to breathe this wine starts really expressing itself. The intoxicating nose features blueberry, plum and violets along with touches of cedar. There is a terrific purity of fruit through the palate that can not help itself but impress as it is intense, layered and just downright delicious. Black cherries are the most prominent along with additional berry fruits as well as fruitcake spice. Chocolate, hints of pencil lead and plenty of earth emerge on the long, persistent finish. Black and white pepper note linger so long them seem like they’ll never stop coming. This offering has firm tannins and excellent acidity. Roasted meats or game will be a natural match for this blend.

There are several things that impress me about this wine. The intense and pure fruit I mentioned above is one. The other is the fact that this blend is a perfect combination of characteristics. The Malbec shows its hedonistic, brash nature, and the Merlot provides backbone and structure. This is a tremendous wine that deserves and demands attention. Not an offering you want to rush to drink, rather one to contemplate over a nice meal with friends who will be lucky that you shared this Argentine powerhouse with them.

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Urraca - 2007 Chardonnay

Each week I taste a lot of different wines. The quality, intent and price ranges of these differ greatly. I’m always interested in what the producer’s intent was when making a wine. Are they looking to make the type of value you can afford to drink everyday and find anywhere for $10? Are they looking to create a wine that might get high scores? Are they looking to just make great wine? After considering intent the other thing I look for in wines that I write about are selections that speak to me. Several months ago I had the Urraca wines at a large scale tasting in Manhattan. They left a real impression and I thought about them from time to time. So much so that I decided I need to retry them and see if they were as impressive as I recalled. Over the next couple of days I’ll look at three selections. I’ll start today with their Chardonnay. The 2007 Urraca Chardonnay is produced from grapes sourced in their own 5 acre Chardonnay Vineyard. This selection is 100% Chardonnay. Oak aging was accomplished over a 6 month period in French barrels. Just 250 cases of this offering were produced. The suggested retail price is $37.

The nose of this Argentine Chardonnay is an apple orchard with touches of cedar and vanilla underscoring the lively fruit aromas. Continued apple, pear, and zesty lemon notes are prominent throughout the palate. In the mid-palate hints of smokiness kick in and continue through finish which also features significant mineral notes and touches of spice. This wine has excellent acidity and good structure.

What impresses me most about this Chardonnay is its balance. The oak treatment adds complexity but never comes close to obtruding the fresh fruit flavors. This wine is an absolutely gorgeous expression of Chardonnay. There are a lot of fine Chardonnays coming out of Argentina, many of them in the value category. This example from Urraca is a step up from most of them in complexity, age-ability, and yes price. However the quality of this wine warrants the price. If a wine of this quality had a Burgundy or Napa appellation on it the cost would be closer to $60. Therefore this Chardonnay fulfills it's intent of being a world class offering. Please stay tuned as I look at two more wines from Urraca this week!

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Bodega Septima - 2008 Chardonnay

Bodega Septima is a Mendoza, Argentina based winery. This region of Argentina is the one most familiar to US consumers at this time. The winery has a history that dates back 10 years. In 1999 they were founded by the Codorníu Group who have winery proprties in several distinct, world-wide locations. Originally starting with 470 acres, they now have well over 800 acres in Mendoza. The stated goal of Bodega Septima is to produce wines that take into account both Argentine tradition and modern global techniques. Today I'll look at their current release of Chardonnay. The 2008 Bodega Septima Chardonnay is produced from grapes in their Luján de Cuyo vineyard; 3,900 feet above sea level. This offering is 100% Chardonnay. This wine was aged in a combination of French and American oak barrels. Alcohol for this selection is a modest 13.3%. The suggested retail price for this South American Chardonnay is $12.

This 2008 wine has a fresh, light yellow hue. Green apple and anjou pear emerges in the nose along with a touch of vanilla bean. Pear and apples flavors continue through the palate, joined by pineapple and hints of additional tropical flavors. Most interesting is a light later of citrus (lemon custard comes to mind) that starts mid-palate and continues through the finish. hints of creaminess also echo through the finish along with subtle nutmeg spice. This Chardonnay has very good acidity. Chicken Piccata would be an excellent match for this offering, which is also quite tasty on its own.

Fresh fruit flavors burst out of this wine, which is what impresses me most. It complements summer nicely. If you happen to drink it in cool weather it's going to make you wish for warmer days.  This wine is most commonly available for right around $10; another example of the many values coming from Argentina,

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Martin & Weyrich - 2006 Petit Verdot

Martin & Weyrich's history in Paso Robles dates back almost 30 years, to 1981. When they bought their first parcel of land only a handful of other wineries existed in the area. Today Paso Robles is a hot region recognized by more and more folks everyday as an area with distinct wines, often at excellent prices. The array of offerings in the Martin & Weyrich portfolio is impressive. Initially focusing mostly on Italian varietals they have expanded to include Bordeaux and Rhone offerings as well. In fact they have one of the widest selections in Paso Robles. None of that would matter if they weren't making excellent wines, which they are. Today I'll look at their current release Petit Verdot. The 2006 Martin & Weyrich Petit Verdot is one of their smaller case productions. This selection is primarily produced for their Avanti Wine Club; however it does show up in a very limited number of Central Coast wine shops and a handful of restaurants as well. The suggested retail price for this wine is $30.

I really wish more wineries would produce a stand alone, varietal Petit Verdot. While it's often part of Bordeaux style blends, this grape is too rarely given the chance to star on its own. This example from Martin & Weyrich is evidence that it should be given that opportunity more often. Dark plum, cedar and black pepper are all part of a heady and intoxicating nose. The palate of this Petit Verdot is rich and velvety with a luxurious mouth-feel. An abundance of dark fruits such as blackberry, dark cherry and raspberry as well as plum fill the middle of this wine with appealing berry pie flavors. Spice notes in the form of continued pepper, allspice, star anise, cloves and hints of cardamon underpin the palate and continue through a lovely and lingering finish. Touches of vanilla emerge as well and add a hint of lighter flavor to what is a mostly dark (gloriously so) flavor profile. This wine has sufficient acidity and nice structure. I found Lamb to be an excellent match for this beauty. Full flavored foods in general will do well.

This wine is one of the exceptions that proves the rule for me. Martin & Weyrich is one of the larger producers in Paso Robles. Many of their wines are widely available. They do a nice job with those. A wine like this, made in limited quantities and not widely available helps set them apart. This Petit Verdot is both delicious and unique. It's clear they put as much care and effort into this exclusive bottling as they do into their larger productions. Another reason to look towards Martin & Weyrich for well made, interesting wines at a fair price.

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Lucas & Lewellen - 2008 Chenin Blanc

In certain areas of France and South Africa Chenin Blanc is widely planted and pretty highly regarded. And while it’s planted in many regions throughout the world it doesn’t get nearly as much acclaim anywhere else. In the US Dry Creek Vineyard has been making an excellent one for years that they do quite well with. There are certainly other producers in California, but the noteworthy examples are few and far between. Today I’m looking at one from Lucas & Lewellen. The 2008 Chenin Blanc from Lucas & Lewellen is produced from fruit sourced at the Los Alamos Vineyard; part of the Santa Barbara AVA. This offering is 100% varietal. This wine was cold fermented. 376 cases were produced and the suggested retail price for this offering is $20.

This Chenin Blanc has an abundance of floral notes in the nose along with orange blossom and hints of spice. Lychee fruit, pineapple and mango are all part of the bright, fruity palate along with sweet pear nectar and touches of honey. Gentle but lingering spice makes up the finish. This wine has good acidity and is well balanced.

What I like about this wine is the wealth of appealing ripe fruit flavors. This Chenin Blanc has touches and hints of sweetness but is far from a truly sweet wine. Those hints however add a lot to the appeal of this selection and drive the desire to keep going back to the glass for another sip. This offering is delicious on its own but has the complexity to stand up to a variety of foods. Chicken based, spicy, Indian dishes would be a particularly good match. A lovely wine, made for summer.

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Fat bastard - 2008 Rosé

With summer here a couple of things come to mind, Yankee Baseball and drinking lots of Rosé. The two happen to go well together. There are several Rosés which have become standards for me year after year. The Rosato from Swanson Vineyards is one of these. However every summer I keep an eye out for selections I haven’t tried. Today I’ll look at the one from Fat bastard.

The Fat bastard 2008 Rosé is made from fruit sourced in Languedoc, This offering is an even split of Grenache and Shiraz. The wine most often sells for just under $10.

This 2008 Rosé has a lovely pink hue, perhaps a bit darker than the average French offering in the category. The nose offers an enticing mix of strawberries, cherries, white pepper and a hint of sugar. Watermelon is the most dominant component through the palate. While this wine isn’t really sweet it reminded me of Jolly Ranchers. Raspberries and dark cherries join the watermelon flavors in supporting roles. The finish is crisp and refreshing, beckoning you back for another sip. This Rosé has excellent acidity and will pair well with the casual foods associated with summer. I paired it with Hot Dogs slathered in onions and a side of Pasta Salad; an excellent and laid back summer match.

The refreshing and fruity nature of this Rosé is what stands out most. It’s noteworthy to add that while I often drink Rosés ice cold this one was better a couple of degrees warmer. That still chilled, but slightly warmer temperature allowed several additional layers of flavor to emerge.

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Graffigna - 2008 Centenario Pinot Grigio

Pinot Grigio is an often frustrating varietal. It wants to be loved and there are a lot of wine drinkers who do in fact drink it in spades. The trouble is that a lot of the Pinot Grigio that’s widely available on US shelves is, to be kind, uninspiring. Speaking for myself I know that I’m always compelled to try Pinot Grigios that cross my path; the search for something great, always on my mind. A couple of months ago I looked at some wines from Graffigna; two Malbecs and two Cabernet Sauvignons, all of them were pretty tasty. So when the chance to taste their current release Pinot Grigio came up I was intrigued. The 2008 Graffigna Pinot Grigio is 100% varietal. All of the fruit for this selection was handpicked. The grapes were sourced in the Tulum Valley, located in San Juan Argentina. The vineyards are close to 2,000 feet above sea level. This wine was fermented in stainless steel. The suggested retail price for this Pinot Grigio is $13.

Peaches, melon and a touch of hibiscus are prominent in the nose of this South American take on Pinot Grigio. Pineapple, ripe, sweet white peach and apricot star in the appealing palate. Those sweet and inviting fruit notes continue through the finish which also has some light hints of vanilla. I found this wine paired well with a simple snack of Kalamata olives, sharp cheddar and flatbread. That said I think this selection also drinks quite nicely on its own and would be a tremendous welcome wine for a dinner party.

The Pinot Grigio from Graffigna is a very tasty effort. This is an excellent selection for summer. It’s light and refreshing with sufficient Pinot Grigio character to keep things interesting. For a $13 price-point, less if you shop around, this selection won’t break your budget either.

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Cameron Hughes - 2006 Stag's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon (Lot 100)

It's been fascinating tasting wines in the Cameron Hughes Lot Series from time to time. One of the things that stands out to me about them is that they source fruit from numerous regions.  Often a  Négociant sources primarily (or wholly) from one region. By using the world as their source material Cameron Hughes Wine is able to provide a truly diverse array of offerings. Today I'll look at one of their California releases. The 2006 Cameron Hughes Lot 100 Stag's Leap Cabernet Sauvignon has fruit from Coombsville (9%) and Mount Veeder (3%). In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon this offering has 3% Petit Verdot blended in. 4,000 cases of this cuvee were produced and the suggested retail price is $20.

This Cabernet is a touch young right now. If you're going to drink it in the next year or so don't be shy about decanting it. An hour would be great, two hours even better. Once it's had that chance to get some air the nose of this wine is quite expressive. Violets, plums, leather and blackberry are all present and prominent. These characteristics continue through the palate where they are joined by an avalanche of cherries as well as subtler cardamon and cinnamon. layer after layer of flavor emerges in the palate which is full flavored and persistent however quite well balanced. Mineral notes, tobacco, black tea and continued spice make up a lengthy and impressive finish. This Cabernet has firm but yielding tannins and good overall structure. While it will pair well will an array of foods, this is the style of Cabernet I like to drink on its own over a long afternoon or evening as I contemplate its many changes.

What stands out most about this wine is that it continues the Cameron Hughes tradition of delivering much more value than the sticker price would indicate. I don't know who they sourced the fruit from, but I suspect that if that name were on the label this would be at least a $35 bottle. If you can wait, I'd lay this down for 3-4 years. That time will really serve this beautiful Cabernet well.

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