Tasting Trapiche With Winemaker Daniel Pi

I recently wrote about some of the Trapiche Wines. The Extra Brut and Torrontes here at Gabe's View and the varietal Malbec in a recent column for Bullz-eye. I had a second look at those wines and several others recently when I had occasion to taste them with Winemaker Daniel Pi.

Trapiche hosted a luncheon at BLT Burger in Manhattan and a number of their wines were served. The NV Extra Brut served as an excellent welcome wine. In addition to setting a celebratory mood, tasting it again underscored what a terrific value in sparkling wine it is. Next up was the Torrontes and it was paired alongside a spicy appetizer that featured potato, cheese and jalapeno among other ingredients. The counterbalance of these flavors is the sort of sweet spot folks dream of when they think up wine pairings. And again as I detailed in my earlier review, this wine is an excellent value.

Daniel Pi has been the winemaker for Trapiche since 2002. As we tasted through the wines, his exuberance and passion screamed through. Trapiche being an Argentine producer, Malbec is of course a major focus. The first was the 2008 varietal Malbec. With the amount of flavor it provides at its price point this offering should be a contender for anyone looking for a house wine to open without guilt any day of the week. The Trapiche 2007 Broquel Malbec is a a few steps up in complexity from the varietal Malbec. For several dollars more you're getting a more intense experience. This wine is made in a cuvee style by sourcing fruit from all over Argentina. The Broquel served as a great comparison to my favorite wine of the day, the Trapiche Single Vineyard Malbec Viña Federico Villafañe 2006. This offering was delicuous, complex and yes singular. More importantly than that it showcased the fact that site specific Malbec can be as compelling and important as other varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon which often get much more attention for single vineyard efforts. This is no small thing. Vineyard specific wines are often the selections that compete so to speak on the grand stage as the best in the world. Malbec deserves a place on that stage and efforts like this pave the way for Malbec to not only be a hot varietal (it is) but to also get more and more serious and deserved critical acclaim.

BLT Burger was an excellent choice to show off the Trapiche wines. The starters, side dishes and procession of 6 different burgers with a variety of preparations and toppings suited these wines well. The diversity of the burgers demonstrated how versatile these wines are and how they pair with the sorts of foods many Americans eat on a day in and day out basis. Burgers were the order of the day, but the red wines would just as easily paired with a slice of pizza, dish of pasta or Thanksgiving Dinner for that matter. Trapiche makes a wide range of wines at different price points. The commonalities are quality and value. Whichever of their wines you choose to try, you'll be getting a good deal with Trapiche.

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Tasting The Wines of Perrier-Jouët Fleur de Champagne With Hervé Deschamps

What is it about Champagne that causes so many Americans to relegate it to celebrations? Don’t get me wrong I think it’s a perfectly fine wine to toast with. That said I think so many people are missing tremendous experiences when they don’t reach for it more often. Champagne like many other kinds of wine is made in an array of styles. And depending on what you’re going to have for dinner, lunch or brunch it's a pretty solid bet that there’s a Champagne that will match your meal. Last week I had the opportunity to taste the wines of Perrier-Jouët Fleur de Champagne alongside Hervé Deschamps, their Chef de Cave. In the history of Perrier-Jouët, which is closing in on 200 years, he is only the seventh Chef de Cave. In speaking with him about his tenure, which started in 1983, it was interesting to note what his goals are. For many Winemakers taking over where a long history exists they yearn to leave their stamp on the wines. This is a bit different in Champagne. The style and quality at Perrier-Jouët has been both high and consistent for almost 200 years. So Hervé’s goal was not to change it but rather to maintain the integrity of the house style and overall quality of the wine.

Tasting through the current Perrier-Jouët offerings it’s apparent that the goal has been met. The wines are of high quality, consistent in style, lovely, and also quite importantly, distinct from each other.

The current releases we sampled were as follows:

Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut NV – This wine which is composed of Pinot Noir (40%), Pinot Meunier (40%) and Chardonnay (20%). The non-vintage cuvee is the most widely produced and available of the Perrier-Jouët wines. For a suggested retail price of $45 it’s also their entry level offering. However the quality of this wine is anything but entry level. This is a serious Grand Brut with citrus aromas and flavors followed by flaky biscuit and brioche. It has an excellent finish and this wine is likely best suited for the widest array of cuisine in the portfolio.

Perrier-Jouët Blason Rosé NV – This Rosé is made up of Pinot Noir (40%), Pinot Meunier (30%) and Chardonnay (30%). This selection has a suggested retail price of $75. The non-vintage Rosé was one of my favorite selections in the portfolio. I enjoyed the length of its finish as well as the firm structure it showed off. If I was going to drink one of these on its own, this would likely be my choice.

Perrier-Jouët Fleur de Champagne Brut 2000 – 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier make up this vintage release. This offering has a suggested retail price of $139. I found this wine to be terrific now. Full, round mouth feel and hints of creaminess and toasted nuts on the finish are amongst the highlights. That said I expect this selection to evolve and improve for quite a few years. The best is yet to come for this wine. A solid bet to put away for a special occasion or holiday meal.

Perrier-Jouët Fleur de Champagne Rosé 2002 - This selection is a blend of Pinot Noir (55%) and Chardonnay (45%). The suggested retail price for this vintage Rosé is $349. This wine starts impressively from its brilliant pink hue. Berry flavors intertwine throughout the palate and the finish which is impressively lengthy is soft, lush and delicate at the same time that it is layered and complex. This is an absolutely brilliant selection that deserves to be both enjoyed for its beauty and contemplated for its complexity.

Perrier-Jouët Fleur de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2000 – This offering is a single vineyard selection composed exclusively of Chardonnay. The suggested retail price for this wine is $399. While I mentioned above that Hervé’s goal was to maintain the integrity and quality of the wines during his tenure, this offering is his singular mark on Perrier-Jouët. This is a selection that wasn’t produced previous to his tenure. It’s only made in exceptional vintages. I really enjoyed the nose of the offering. A hint of candied ginger and honey really come through. The palate of this wine is perhaps the gentlest and most alluring of these six wines. The finish lingers and echoes well after the last sip.

Tasting these wines side by side over several hours I went back to each of them more than once. As I mentioned I was struck not only by the quality but also by the distinction. Each of these wines stands on its own and provides a unique drinking experience. Whether you’re picking up the Non Vintage Grand Brut for everyday drinking or putting the Fleur de Champagne Rosé away for a special meal you really can’t go wrong with the wines of Perrier-Jouët. This is a classic Champagne House, 200 years into its history, that keeps on keeping on. In a world where change for the sake of change is often embraced, it’s good to see stability and consistency. Happily I can highly recommend these wines across the board.

Dinner With Winemaker Cristobal Undurraga

Dating back to the 1880’s the Undurraga family has played a significant role in the Chilean wine industry. As it relates to Chilean wine in the US they were the first to export here. And when Chilean wine started to find a significant home on US shelves they led the charge in brand recognition. In 2006 they sold their namesake winery, brand name and vineyard. But instead of retreating from the wine business they approached it anew. Alfonso Undurraga Mackenna great nephew of Undurraga founder Francisco started a new brand with his sons. Thus Koyle Winery was founded. I recently had the chance to sit down with winemaker Cristobal Undurraga and taste the wines he’s making with and for his family winery. The goal at Koyle Winery is two-fold. They want to show off the fact that Chile can produce small lot premium wines. And within that focus their goal is to over deliver on each release. Throughout dinner, Cristobal who is a charming speaker told us very passionately about their goals for the Koyle brand. Before tasting the Koyle wines though we tasted through the family’s value brand Terrapura.

The wines in the Terrapura range are varietal selections. With 25,000 cases of each made they’re going to be widely available on US shelves. Each of them has a suggested retail price of $9.99.

Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Carmenere are the Terrapura wines we sampled. There is also a Cabernet Sauvignon in this line. While I felt they were each well made and more than fairly priced, two stood out as favorites for me:

Terrapura – 2009 Sauvignon Blanc. This first wine of the night also turned out to be one of the favorites for both myself and others at the table. It’s loaded with lots of very fresh fruit flavors. Citrus abounds. It has tremendous acidity and a touch of creaminess on the finish. For $10 this wine is a steal.

Terrapura – 2008 Merlot. This offering has a big an alluring nose filled with rose petals and cherry aromas. Throughout the palate it features continued cherry, as well as chocolate and plum notes. The finish is beautifully dry with earth, chicory and spice. This Merlot is well balanced with good acidity. It’s tough to find a Merlot in this price category with this type of varietal character. That’s going to make this selection hard to beat.

Cristobal spoke knowledgeably about the Terrapura wines though he doesn’t make them. One of the decisions the family made when they started anew in 2006 was to operate their value and premium lines as separate wineries as opposed to different lines in the same winery. I can’t speak to what they would have tasted like if they didn’t make that decision. But I can tell you that what they decided worked very well. There are style differences in addition to qualitative differences in these wines that make them distinct.

Koyle Winery was named after a purple plant that can be found in their mountain vineyards. The wines are produced from both estate fruit and sourced grapes. The fruit they source comes from long term growers who have relationships with the Undurraga family that date back many years, assuring they get the quality they are looking for. Currently Koyle has four releases. The total case production for them stands at around 12,000. This encompasses two Cabernet Sauvignons and two Syrahs.  Each wine has a standard release ($16.99) and a “Royale” ($25.99) which is their version of a reserve offering. The 2007 vintage that we tasted is the first for the Royale wines. My impressions of these offerings follow:

Koyle - 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. This selection also has 12% Carmenere blended in.  This Cabernet has a really big and expressive nose showing lots of dark, brooding berry fruit. Berry flavors continue through the palate joined by spice and earth notes which lead to a nice finish. This wine has firm tannins. If you’re drinking it now decanting is heartily recommended.

Koyle – 2007 Syrah. 13% Carmenere is also blended in. Blueberry, plum and blackberry are all prominent in the nose of this wine. The palate has an appealing jammy feel to it. It seems to find a sweet spot that nestles itself between the very ripe offerings that often come from Australia and the more reserved old world selections. This would pair beautifully with barbecue foods.

Koyle – 2007 Royale Cabernet Sauvignon. Malbec (9%) and Carmenere (6%) are blended into this selection. I found this Cabernet to have even darker fruit than its counterpart.  It also has bigger, firmer, chewy tannins and a notably lengthy finish. This wine is nice now, but I don’t think it’s close to being at its best yet; 5 years of proper storage should help this one really evolve. It should drink well for several years after that.

Koyle – 2007 Royale Syrah. 11% Malbec and 4% Carmenere are blended into this wine. The nose of this Syrah is loaded with floral notes. Cassis, blackberry pie and copious baker’s spice emerges throughout the full bodied and rich palate. Dry fruit and espresso notes kick in on the lengthy finish. As with the Cabernet this wine will easily get better in the upcoming years under proper storage conditions.

Speaking with Cristobal throughout the evening and tasting the wines his family is producing was a noteworthy experience. His passion for wine in general and the promise of Chile in particular shines through with every word he utters. The Undurraga family has played a key role in the history of Chilean wine. It stands to reason that they will be one of the producers that causes the world to realize, on a larger scale than they currently do, that Chile stands not only for value but for premium quality as well.

Most impressive to me is that each of these wines does meet their stated goal of over-delivering on their price-points. That’s no small feat. If you drink Chilean wines, keep your eyes open for the Koyle and Terrapura wines, they’re well worth giving a shot. If you currently don’t drink much wine from Chile, this wouldn’t be a bad place to start.

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Hess Collection - 2006 19 Block Cuvée

I’ve been fond of wines form Mount Veeder for many years now. But over the last year I’ve made a more concerted effort to try more of them. While I think a wide array of varietals shine up on Mt. Veeder the classic Bordeaux grapes are amongst those I feel stand out most often. Today I’m going to take a look at a selection from Hess Collection. They’re the largest winery on Mt Veeder by case production. Within their size though they do a wide variety of things; both small and large production wines are part of their portfolio. Their estate boasts 310 acres of vineyards which are sustainably farmed. Today I’ll look at one of their blends. The Hess Collection 2006 19 Block Cuvée is produced from estate fruit. The vineyard site the fruit was sourced from ranges in altitude from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. Fruit was selected from 19 blocks within the vineyard, thus the name of the wine. This selection is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (69%), Malbec (11%), Syrah (10%), Merlot (5%), Petit Verdot (3%) and Cabernet Franc (2%). Oak aging was accomplished over 18 months in French oak; 50% of the barrels were new. Just over 14,000 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $35.

Leather and cherry notes are prominent on the nose of this Mt. Veeder blend. A host of berry fruit, (particularly blackberry) along with spice, and cigar box are part of the palate. Somewhere around mind-palate, dark, rich unsweetened chocolate notes kick in. The finish is nice and lengthy with black pepper, mineral notes and cherry that keeps echoing. This wine has a firm tannic structure that softens with some air, as well as firm acidity.

This is a very well rounded wine. While this selction is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, the other varietals shine through and create a very cohesive blend that makes this offering a clear case of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts. Though this wine also includes Syrah, stylistically it drinks like a Napa Valley Bordeaux or Meritage style blend. For a suggested retail price of $35 this wine over delivers in spades. With over 14,000 cases made it should be easy to locate too.

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Soquel Vineyards - 2007 Lester Family Vineyard Pinot Noir / 2007 Saveria Vineyard Pinot Noir

Today marks the finale for The 12 Days of Pinot Noir. That said stay tuned for some additional Pinot Noir coverage over the next few weeks sometime. Today's finale is another stop in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Soquel Vineyards. This winery was started in 1987 by Peter and Paul Bargetto along with their friend Jon Morgan. Their grandfather was one of the founders of Bargetto Winery which is of course also located in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Soquel Vineyards current production stands at around 4,500 cases per year. They focus on Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel and of course Pinot Noir. They're recently acquired a vineyard to grow some of their own fruit. This will complement what they currently source locally in the Santa Cruz Mountains as well as in Napa and the Russian River Valley of Sonoma. Today I'll look at two of their current release Pinot Noirs. First up is the Soquel Vineyards 2007 Lester Family Vineyards Pinot Noir. Included in the plantings of this sustainably farmed vineyard are 7 different clones of Pinot Noir. 65% is dedicated to Dijon clones. This offering has an alcohol content of 14.4% and a suggested retail price of $40.

Plum, cherry and berry pie spice notes, including vanilla make up the vibrant nose of this Pinot Noir. Throughout the palate red and black plum flavors play a large role along with wild strawberry and rhubarb characteristics. Sour cherry, earth and an abundance of mineral notes make up the above average finish of this wine. This 2007 releases has firm tannins and everything is framed by excellent acidity.

This is a very even and well balanced Pinot Noir. That along with the excellent overall structure and good length are the things that appeal most to me about this offering. It's tasty enough on its own but will be enhanced greatly when paired with the right foods. Lamb dishes are an obviously excellent choice to match this wine. Whether it's Grilled Lamb Chops or Lamb Souvlaki you can't go wrong.

The second selection from Soquel Vineyards is the 2007 Saveria Vineyard Pinot Noir. This vineyard is farmed by the same folks who tend to Lester Vineyard. alcohol content for this offering is a robust 15.5%. The suggested retail price for this wine is $55.

From the get go everything about the Saveria Vineyard Pinot is a bit more than the Lester. That starts with a darker black cherry hue. Baker's spice notes as well black cherry and blueberry are present in the nose of this Pinot. The palate presents a rich core of opulent fruit. Lots of cherry, blackberry and black plum are underscored by a persistent layer of racy acidity that keeps everything balanced. Cranberry, sour cherry, earth and cola notes make up the memorable finish which lingers on the tongue and back of the throat for a long while. This selection has firm tannins and very good structure.

The Saveria Vineyard Pinot Noir will match up nicely with bigger and bolder than average cuisine for a Pinot Noir. The rich flavors of Wild Boar Ragu will be balanced nicely by the expressive and flavorful fruit this wine features. I was surprised to see the alcohol at over 15%. I didnt notice it until after I'd tasted the wine. Despite that seemingly high number this selection is thankfully not hot in the least. It's got nice balance and will surely drink well for a number of years.

Both of these selection from Soquel Vineyards do a fine job of representing Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot as a whole and their specific vineyard sites as well. These are well worth making an effort to acquire.

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Coelho Winery - 2006 Paciência Pinot Noir / 2007 Paciência Pinot Noir

Today marks the second to last day for The 12 Days of Pinot Noir. The stop today is up in Oregon at a relatively new Winery. Coelho Winery was founded in 2004 by Dave & Deloinda Coelho. They’re both 2^nd generation Portuguese-American and there are tie ins between the winery and their heritage. Currently they have 30 acres of their 40 acre property under vine. Pinot Noir represents 28.5 of those acres with Pinot Gris (1 acre) and Chardonnay (1/2 acre) making up the rest. Pommard and Dijon 777 represent the clones of Pinot Noir they have planted. Current production stands at about 2,500 cases per year. Approximately 50% of their fruit is sold to other producers. Today I’ll look at successive vintages of their Pinot Noir. First up is the Coelho Winery 2006 Paciência Pinot Noir. This selection is made from 100% sustainably grown, estate fruit. Barrel aging was accomplished in French oak; 15% of the barrels were new. This wine was bottle unfiltered and unfined. 1,566 cases of this vintage were produced and the suggested retail price is $35.

Ripe plum, blackberry, vanilla and hints of cedar emerge in the nose of this 2006 Pinot Noir. Throughout the palate cherry plays a large role in the flavor profile. Other flavors and notes come and go but the rich cherry is persistent and stays the course. Cinnamon, cloves, and lots of spice overall are part of the finish which also has sour cherry, black tea and cola notes. Brown sugar reference points kick in early and come back over and over throughout this Pinot as well. Firm but yielding tannins and fine acidity frame this wine.

The second wine is the Coelho Winery 2007 Paciência Pinot Noir. This wine is also made from 100% sustainably grown, estate fruit. The 2007 was barrel aged in French oak with 12% of the barrels being new. This offering was bottled unfined and unfiltered. 1,570 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $32.

Wild Strawberry, cherry, plum, mushroom, and vanilla notes fill the nose of this 2007 release. Baker’s spice, hints of molasses and abundant dried fruit notes form a full flavored but gentle palate that coats the senses while never getting very big. Cherry cola, burnt sugar and hints of caramel emerge on the above average finish.

What stands about most two me about these two wines is how distinct they are. The fruit came from the same Estate source and the oak treatment and winemaking was pretty much identical. At that point you have to attribute most of the differences in these wines to vintage variation. Tasting them side by side as a mini-vertical, which I did, is certainly fun. But well beyond that it’s instructive and really quite fascinating. The 2006 features a richer, riper, fuller palate. It’ll marry well with bigger foods than the average Pinot Noir. Braised Short Ribs would work well. The 2007 is a bit softer and more aromatic with lots of gentle fruit flavors. It’ll pair well with a many of the typical Pinot foods such as pork or mushroom based dishes. However the 2007 is right up my alley as they style of Pinot I really enjoy on its own with just my thoughts. If you have the chance though, try them both.

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Chamisal Vineyards - 2007 Edna Valley Pinot Noir / 2007 Califa Pinot Noir

Today The 12 Days of Pinot Noir goes into overtime. This was necessitated by a larger than anticipated number of tasty wines worth reporting on. The next stop is the Edna Valley. Chamisal Vineyards was the first winery that planted in Edna Valley that was back in 1973. Since that time they’ve seen a lot of changes. That included being dormant for several years, a renaming to Domaine Alfred in the early 90’s and more recently new ownership that rechristened it Chamisal Vineyards once again. Pinot Noir plays a large role in their production and today I’ll look at two of their current releases. First up is the Chamisal Vineyards 2007 Edna Valley Pinot Noir. This wine is produced using estate fruit. They have 10 clones planted, and 9 made their way into this offering. Barrel aging was accomplished over 14 months in French oak; 40% was new. 2,140 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $38.

Black cherry and underlying spice notes are the most prominent characteristics to leap from the nose of this wine. The palate is layered with intense dark fruit that never stops coming and attacking your senses; but it doesn’t stray over the top either. Firm black tea notes, plum pudding spice and dark berry fruit that continues to echo, make up the generous finish. Velvety tannins and bracing acidity mark this wines structure.

What I like about this wine is that it’s a fine example of a bigger style of the Pinot that still retains the balance and varietal character that are both so important to this grape. This offering will drink well over the next 3-5 years.

The second wine today is the Chamisal Vineyards 2007 Califa Pinot Noir. This selection is made from estate fruit and limited to clones 114, 667 and Pommard. Beyond clonal selection, standout barrels are picked for this offering. The barrels that show the most opulence as well as best representing the sense of place are the ones used for this release each year. Barrel aging was accomplished over 14 months in French oak; 60% of the barrels were new. 580 cases of this vintage were produced and the suggested retail price is $60.

Violets, black cherry, plum, blackberry and flourishes of sage fill the expressive and outgoing nose of this 2007 Pinot Noir. A rich and intense core of fruit forms the berry filled palate. Chocolate Bosco sauce notes underlie the berry pie characteristics and form a self-indulgent explosion of flavor that also has hints of licorice. Intense flavors continue through the lengthy finish which showcases this Pinots solid structure, all framed by generous acidity.

As far as Pinot goes this is a pretty big wine. It’s New World in style to be sure and packs lots of flavor and punch. If you’re drinking this selection over the next 2-3 years an hour or two in the decanter is highly recommended. Time will soften the tannins a bit and allow this wine to open up. Regardless of when you drink it though this selection is built for immediate pleasure.

Both of these Pinot Noirs are good examples of more California style Pinot Noir. They retain varietal character and aren’t overblown, but they do tend towards the bigger style of Pinot. If that’s up your alley each of these would be fine additions to your cellar.

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Adelsheim Vineyard - 2007 Elizabeth's Reserve Pinot Noir / 2007 Bryan Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir

The 12 Days of Pinot Noir continues to tour the Willamette Valley in Oregon. Today’s stop is at Adelsheim Vineyard. They’re one of those stalwart Oregon producers that for many lovers of Pinot Noir were likely an early introduction to the sorts of wine the state can produce. Several of their offerings are widely available; inclusing a Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay with Willamette Valley designations that come in at friendly prices for folks seeking an entry point into Oregon wine. Adelsheim Vineyard has a history that dates back over 35 years. They currently have over 170 acres under vine. Today however I’ll look at a couple of their smaller release wines. First up is the Adelsheim 2007 Elizabeth’s Reserve Pinot Noir. Each year this reserve style wine is produced using what the winery considers the best barrels of wine from the highest quality lots. For the 2007 vintage lots from 8 vineyards were used to create this offering. Barrel aging was accomplished over 10 months in French oak; 30% of the barrels were new. 1,192 cases of this selection were produced in 2007 and the suggested retail price is $48.

Vanilla bean notes underscore cherry, strawberry and raspberry characteristics in the fresh nose of this wine. Continued strawberry and cherry along with cinnamon dominate the very even keeled palate. Light hints of plum, cedar, white pepper and flourishes of sour cherry emerge in the finish. This reserve Pinot Noir has very good structure and firm acidity.

This balanced and somewhat gentle expression of Pinot Noir is lush and layered with lots of flavor in its subtle undercurrent. This is a classic example of a cuvee style offering from Willamette Valley. It’s delicious now but it’ll easily evolve positively for the next 6-8 years and drink well for quite a few after that. For $48 I feel this selection over delivers in complexity and its ability to age. A very solid bet and with over 1,000 cases made it shouldn’t be too hard to find.

The second selection today from Adelsheim is the 2007 Bryan Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir. This fruit is from a single vineyard situated across the road from the original Adelsheim Estate Vineyard. This parcel of land, belonging to their neighbors, was planted in 1988 and by 1998 enough of the fruit was distinct enough to be made into a designate wine. Aging occurred in French oak; 30% of the barrels were new. 280 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $68.

Red fruit along with hints of mushroom and splashes of rhubarb make up the nose of this 2007 single vineyard Pinot Noir. Throughout the palate sumtupuous layer after sumptuous later of wild strawberry is joined by nutmeg, clove and white pepper. Terrific mineral and earth character emerges in the finish which is prodigious in length and structure. Excellent acidity frames this offering which has firm tannins.

The 2007 Bryan Creek Pinot Noir is a wonderful, singular expression of Pinot Noir. It features tremendous purity of fruit and has textbook varietal characteristics in spades. As with the Elizabeth’s reserve this Pinot has a long life ahead of it. It’ll improve for 5-6 years and drink well for 5 after that. This small production wine was just released as a wine club offering and can be purchased directly from Adelsheim Vineyard.

Side by side these Pinot Noirs provide an intersting snapshot into what Adelsheim Vineyard was doing in 2007. One represting the best fruit from throughout their vineyard, the other a specific look at one spot and what type of Pinot it produced in 2007.

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Cristom Vineyards - 2007 Mt. Jefferson Cuvee Pinot Noir / 2006 Sommers Reserve Pinot Noir / 2006 Marjorie Vineyard Pinot Noir

As The 12 Days of Pinot Noir starts heading into the home stretch it’s back to Willamette Valley in Oregon. Cristom Vineyards is the subject today. This producer has 65 acres under vine; within that are 7 distinct vineyard sites. Founder Paul Gerrie is an engineer and he has a winemaker, Steve Doerner, who is a biochemist. Together they started with a scientific approach, their ultimate goal being to make terroir driven wines. Today I’ll look at three of their Pinot Noirs. First up is Cristom Vineyards 2007 Mt. Jefferson Cuvee Pinot Noir. This cuvee style offering is made from fruit sourced at 13 different Willamette Valley vineyards. Four of those are Cristom estate vineyards. They have produced this selection since the 1994 vintage. Barrel aging was accomplished over eleven months in French oak; 8% of the barrels were new. 5,161 cases of this vintage were produced and the suggested retail price is $30.

Raspberry cinnamon and vanilla form a lovely trio of scents that emerge from this 2007 Pinot Noir. Throughout the palate red fruit such as cherry, raspberry and cranberry are prominent and provide the core flavors with a wave of black cherry underlying things. Earth, chicory, flint and hints of graphite are all part of the finish which is medium in length. This has good overall structure and nice acidity.

For a suggested retail of $30 this wine is a good value. With over 5,000 cases it shouldn’t be difficult to find either. This cuvee is a good primer into Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. It’ll drink well for several years. If you choose to open it now I suggest a solid hour in the decanter to get the best out of it. Once it opens up this is a lovely wine.

The second selection is the Cristom Vineyards 2006 Sommers Reserve Pinot Noir. This selection is produced primarily from fruit sourced at four of their estate vineyards as well as some purchased fruit. In total 15 vineyard sites contributed fruit to this cuvee. Barrel aging was accomplished over seventeen months in French oak; 44% was new. 2,734 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $41.

Strawberry, violets, and hints of sage emerge from the nose of this reserve style cuvee. Black currant, cherry, wild strawberry, star anise and touches of orange zest form the rich palate of this Pinot Noir. Hints of sour cherry emerge in the solid finish along with cinnamon, mocha, berry compote, and pie crust notes. This wine has yielding tannins and racy acidity. While this offering will pair well with a wide array of foods I think it would be particularly well matched with Turkish food; mixed grills and other meats will work fantastically.

As with the Mt. Jefferson cuvee the Sommers Reserve will show at its best now if you take the time to decant it. This is a really solid Pinot Noir, a notch up in complexity and length from the Mt. Jefferson and an equally good value in its price category.

The final wine from Cristom today is the 2006 Marjorie Vineyard Pinot Noir. As the name indicates this is a single vineyard selection. This vineyard was planted in 1982. Barrel aging occurred over 18 months in French oak; 64% of the barrels were new. 752 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $60.

A horn ‘o’ plenty of dark berry aromas as well as hints of lavender, violets and cinnamon make up the expressive nose of this Pinot. The palate is incredibly layered with berry fruit, minerals and spice notes coming in wave after wave of flavor. Black tea and copious earth notes emerge on what is a notably lengthy finish. The overall structure and acidity this wine shows are impressive as well. While this Pinot will match well with food I liked it quite a bit on its own. A good choice to share with friends and drink while you contemplate the mysteries of life. Decanting this wine is also highly recommended

Each of these selections from Cristom Vineyards is well made and delicious. However the 2006 Marjorie Vineyard is the most remarkable of the three. This wine is loaded with striking flavors and layers of complexity that build to a tremendous finish. I expect this wine to improve over the next 2-3 years and drink well for 4-5 after that. This would be an excellent choice to sock away for a special occasion.

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Domaine Serene - 2007 Yamhill Cuvée Pinot Noir / 2006 Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir

The 12 Days of Pinot Noir heads back to the Willamette Valley in Oregon. When I visited, a few years back, both the wines and the setting at Domaine Serene were impressive. The Estate itself was easily one of the most beautiful settings I visited tasting wine in Oregon. Domaine Serene is dedicated to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with 150 acres under vine and planted to those two varietals. They also produce Syrah & Viognier under the “Roadblock” label from sourced fruit. Today I’ll take a look at two of their current release Pinot Noirs. First up is the Domaine Serene 2007 Yamhill Cuvée Pinot Noir. This offering is produced from fruit primarily sourced at two estate vineyard sites in Eola Hills and Dundee Hills. Three clones of Pinot are included (Pommard, Dijon & Wadenswil). Barrel aging was accomplished over 10 months in French oak; 43% of the barrels were new. The suggested retail price for this offering is $42.

Lavender, violets and red cherry aromas highlight the expressive nose of this 2007 Pinot Noir. Throughout the palate cranberry plays a large role supported by rhubarb and raspberry. The flavors throughout the palate are gentle, full flavored and layered. Loads of spice note are present and emerge as the wine opens up in the glass; vanilla and light nutmeg are particularly noteworthy. Black pepper, mineral elements and moderate cola notes all emerge on the lengthy finish. This Pinot has excellent acidity.

The second wine up is the Domaine Serene 2006 Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir. The fruit for this release is sourced from estate vineyards in the Eola Hills (59%) and Dundee Hills (41%). Barrel aging was accomplished over 15 months in French oak; 48% of the barrels were new. The suggested retail price for this release is $58.

The nose of the Evenstad Reserve gives off hints of candied cherry as well as charred wood reference points. Throughout the full flavored palate there is a persistent core of rich fruit; cherry, blackberry and strawberry are prominent. These form a berry pie component that’s complemented by plum pudding spice notes and sweet dark chocolate. Black tea and cherry cola characteristics underwritten by vanilla bean are each part of the excellent, lingering and quite noteworthy finish. This Pinot has excellent structure and terrific racy acidity.

I found that each of these Pinot’s is terrific in its own right. What they have in common is that they are well made and true to their varietal. The Evenstad is a bit richer and fuller where the Yanhill Cuvée is a touch gentler in style and approach. I’d be happy to have either on my table at any time and each should drink well for approximately 6-8 years. If you're drinking now, decanting will benefit both of these, the Evenstad a bit more dramatically. A nice job by Domaine Serene on these wines. Definitely a producer to look up if you visit Willamette Valley.

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Black Ridge Vineyards - 2007 Pinot Noir

The next stop for The 12 Days of Pinot Noir is back to the Santa Cruz Mountains. Black Ridge Vineyards is a small producer of Estate grown wines. Their small lot productions are made at Testarossa Vineyards. Of the 1,200 cases they produce the lot sizes range from 50 cases up to 500 cases. In addition to Pinot Noir they produce Viognier and a Bordeaux style blend that uses all 5 of the classic varietals. They have 22 acres under vine. Today I’ll look at their second commercial vintage ever of Pinot Noir. The Black Ridge Vineyards 2007 Pinot Noir is produced from estate fruit. Barrel aging was accomplished in French oak. 198 cases of this Pinot Noir were produced and the suggested retail price is $39.

The nose of this Pinot shows toasty oak, vanilla and dark fruits such as plum and blueberry. Black cherry is dominant throughout the palate along with blackberry and hints of orange zest. The fruit takes on a savory edge around mid-palate and that continues through the finish and clings to the back of your throat followed by copious mineral and cranberry notes as well as black pepper, earth and a final wallop of dust. This offering has yielding tannins and excellent acidity.

This Pinot Noir is well made and suitable for drinking for several years or so. It’s quite tasty on its own and will pair well with a wide range of foods. I matched it up with rotisserie chicken and roasted potatoes which worked nicely.

One of the pleasures of tasting through so many Pinot Noirs over several weeks is the discovery of fine releases by producers I wasn’t previously too familiar with. This is one of those cases. I had read about Black Ridge Vineyards on the web but hadn’t tried their wine previously. This Pinot Noir, particularly from a second vintage is impressive and well worth seeking out. I look forward to following the evolution of this winery to see what they do going forward.

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Benton-Lane Winery - 2006 Pinot Noir - First Class

If you go to your local wine shop and look through the domestic Pinot Noir the Benton-Lane Winery label is sure to get your attention. The postage stamp image is eye catching and has a classic look. I recall it grabbing my eye years ago. After reading a bit about the wine I ended up picking up a bottle the next time I ran across it. Benton-Lane Winery is a Willamette Valley Oregon producer that makes mostly Pinot Noir. There were founded by Steve and Carol Girard in 1988 and their first vintage was 1992. They have 138 acres under vine which are sustainably farmed. Benton-Lane Winery produces around 30,000 cases per year. Today during The 12 Days of Pinot Noir I’ll look at one of their small production Pinot Noirs. The 2006 Benton-Lane Pinot Noir - First Class is made only in vintages where a particular lot of wine stands out. This offering is of course 100% Pinot Noir with 4 clones represented (Pommard, 114, 115, and 777). All the fruit is from the Benton-Lane Estate Vineyard. Barrel aging was accomplished over 16 months in French oak. This offering also spent 6 months in bottle prior to release. 684 6 bottle cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $60.

Cherry, plum, and hints of earthy, meaty mushroom fill the generous nose of this Pinot Noir. Wild Strawberry, rhubarb, cherry, raspberry and blackberry are all prominent parts of the palate along with subtle dark plum and leather notes. Dusty cocoa and sour cherry lead the finish followed by tremendous earth, chicory notes and an absolutely terrific (gloriously so) mineral component. The finish is impressively lengthy and echoes on your taste buds long enough to make it seem like it never wants to let go. This wine has terrific overall structure and bracing acidity.

First Class is a great name for what amounts to a reserve style Pinot Noir. This is an excellent wine that drinks quite well now, particularly after an hour in the decanter, and will evolve nicely over the next 3-4 years and drink well for at least 5 after that. This offering is well worth making an extra effort to acquire.

Benton-Lane Winery also makes a larger production Estate Pinot Noir which retails for $26. I'll be taking a look at it in one of my upcoming columns at Bullz-Eye.com.

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Erath Winery - 2006 Estate Selection Pinot Noir / 2006 Prince Hill Pinot Noir

When I was out in Willamette Valley a couple of years ago for the first time Erath Winery was one of my “must” stops. They were amongst the first handful of producers from the area that I drank regularly and helped me down the road of becoming a huge fan of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. And while Erath plays a small role in my personal story with Oregon wines they play a huge role in the history of Oregon wine, specifically those made in the Dundee Hills. Dick Erath planted his first vines there some 40 years ago and made his first commercial vintage of wine in 1972. A couple of years later they were the first winery to build a facility in the Dundee Hills. They haven’t really looked back since; what they have done over the years is inspire many people to make excellent Pinot Noir in Oregon. Today I’ll look at two of their current releases. The first wine up today is the Erath 2006 Estate Selection Pinot Noir. It’s produced using fruit from five of their vineyards. At 62% Knight’s Gambit vineyard makes up the largest percentage of the fruit in this cuvée style offering. Barrel aging was accomplished over 13 months in all French oak; 40% was new. The suggested retail price for this Dundee Hills Pinot Noir is $36.

A lovely strawberry hue is the first thing that becomes apparent when this wine is poured. Taking a whiff the nose is filled with raspberry, vanilla and light, gentle hints of espresso. Rhubarb and wild strawberry are key parts of a palate that strikes me as the epitome of full flavored yet gentle and very much proportionate. Savory fruit notes kick in mid-palate along with touches of smoked meat. Earth, black pepper and mineral characteristics are key elements of the lingering finish. This wine has soft tannins and good acidity.

This Estate Pinot Noir is an excellent showcase not only for Willamette Valley in general but specifically for the distinct wines coming out of the Dundee Hills. For a retail of $37 you’ll also get a wine that can lay down with proper storage for more than five years.

Up next is the Erath 2006 Prince Hill Pinot Noir. All of the fruit for this wine comes from the Prince Hill estate vineyard in the Dundee Hills. Six clones make up the mix here with Pommard representing almost half. Oak aging for this single vineyard selection was accomplished over 14 months in French barrels; 45% of them were new. The suggested retail price for this wine is $45.

Pouring the Prince Hill Pinot its darker red/black cherry hue is immediately apparent. Fresh, ripe dark fruit notes waft invitingly out of the nose. Blackberry, cherry and plum are all apparent. Cherry, raspberry and copious spice notes are part of a palate that’s richer, fuller and more expressive than the Estate cuvee. Black tea and waves of mineral notes are joined by hints of smoke and toasty oak on a long, layered, lush and very memorable finish. Firm tannins and generous acidity frame this wine.

I really like the 2006 Prince Hill now but I think it’ll be significantly better in a couple of years. I’d expect it to drink well for the next decade. This distinct Pinot Noir has flavors that are intense but never over the top, oak that’s apparent at times but never distracting. Overall this is a beautiful wine from a specific spot.

Each of these wines from Erath is impressive in its own way. They share the ability to age and varietal correctness as common characteristics. They’re both good values in their respective categories as well. If you have yet to dive in to Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, Erath Winery is a good place to start. They have a long history of consistent winemaking and some selections that are widely available.

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Testarossa Winery - 2007 Palazzio Pinot Noir / 2007 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Pinot Noir

Today The 12 Days of Pinot Noir stops in Los Gatos California. Testarossa Winery was started in the Santa Cruz Mountains by husband and wife team Rob and Diana Jensen. For several vintages in the 1990’s they made wine at Cinnabar Winery. When they eventually outgrew that space they moved to Los Gatos. Currently they produce about 15,000 cases of wine per year. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay make up the core of their offerings; they additionally make Syrah. Today I’ll look at two of their current releases of Pinot Noir. The 2007 Testarossa Palazzio Pinot Noir is produced from fruit sourced at a number of vineyards in several appellations. Oak aging was accomplished over 10 months; 54% of the barrels were new. 4,731 cases of this release were produced in 2007. The suggested retail price is $37.

Cherry and vanilla highlight the expressive nose of this 2007 Pinot Noir. It’s inviting and the aromas grab hold and demand that you take a sip. Sweet wild blackberry and dusty cocoa notes are prominent throughout the palate along with cherry pie crust spice. White pepper, nutmeg and a host of lingering spice characteristics are the story of the lengthy finish along with emerging mineral notes. This Pinot has excellent acidity.

What I like most about the Palazzio Pinot Noir is its balance. This is a rich and full flavored wine that shows off lots of fruit and acidity while allowing oak to play the supporting role it’s meant for, adding but never detracting. This wine while particularly suited for drinking on its own to my taste, will also pair well an eclectic array of foods. I would drink this selection over the next few years.

The 2007 Testarossa Sleepy Hollow Vineyards Pinot Noir is made from fruit sourced exclusively at this single vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands of Monterey County. The vines at Sleepy Hollow were planted in 1973. Barrel aging was accomplished over 13 months in oak; 44% of the barrels were new. 625 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $59.

An explosive burst of cherry and plum with underlying cedar and fruitcake spice notes make up the nose of this single vineyard Pinot Noir. Continued cherry, along with strawberry and ever increasing mineral notes emerge throughout the palate. There’s a nice savory edge to the fruit which leads to sour black cherry in the finish along with flint, graphite and a host of other mineral flourishes. This wine has excellent structure and is framed with terrific acidity. The finish is quite lengthy and lingering. Drink this Pinot over the next 4-7 years

In comparison to the Palazzio, the Sleepy Hollow wants to be paired with food more so. Both are fine examples of Pinot Noir. What stood out most to me about these wines is how incredibly distinct they are from one another. That said they do share the important qualities of being proportionate, well made and most importantly true to their varietal.

Tasting these two Pinots was my first experience with Testarossa Winery, it certainly won’t be my last. I was impressed with each of these wines and look forward to seeing what they produce going forward.

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Clos LaChance - 2007 Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir / 2006 Biagini Vineyard Pinot Noir

Over the last few years I’ve become very fond in general of the wines from Clos LaChance. Their focus on high quality fruit, combined with a multi-tiered approach that offers cuvée style wines as well as single vineyard and sometimes block designates is conceptually appealing. But more importantly they execute very well on that idea and are an excellent producer for a wine lover who wants multiple options at different price points. This is fun for comparative tasting as well as it is for those who may start drinking at a general tier and eventually move on to higher end wines. Having a reliable producer you know to purchase a bottle aimed at a special occasion or gift is also important. Taking that into account, it certainly made sense for me to taste some wines from Clos LaChance for The 12 Days of Pinot Noir. The first selection is the Clos LaChance 2007 Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir. This wine is produced exclusively from Santa Cruz Mountains fruit. Barrel aging was accomplished over 14 months in French oak; 40% was new, 60 % was used. 1,960 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $32.

A lovely black cherry hue makes an impression when this wine is poured. The nose is loaded with aromas of wild strawberry and vanilla gelato. Crushed red and black fruit along with light mushroom and nutmeg spice notes make up the palate. Black tea leaves, sour cherry, dusty earth, light espresso notes, cinnamon, cardamom and touches of cola make up the generous finish of this Pinot Noir. Fine tannins and firm acidity frame this offering. It drinks quite well on its own and will pair with roast pork loin, grilled chorizo or a host of other foods.

The second selection is the 2006 Biagini Vineyard Pinot Noir. The fruit for this selection comes from Ted Biagini’s 11 acre vineyard. 4 clones of Pinot were planted there in 1998. Barrel aging was accomplished over 14 months in French oak. The suggested retail price for this selection is $50.

Dark fruit notes waft invitingly from the nose of this single vineyard Pinot Noir. Strawberry, raspberry and black cherry characteristics are all apparent in the palate along with an underlying hint of cranberry. White pepper, black tea, hints of licorice, cherry cola and chicory are all part of a long, lingering finish punctuated by spice notes until the very end. This Pinot has excellent structure and firm acidity.

What I really like about these wines is that they are each full flavored and balanced. This has been a hallmark of the Clos LaChance wines I’ve had and one of the things I look for and count on in their wines. Both of these selections will drink well for a number of years. The Biagini is particularly suited to aging and I expect it will improve over 6-7 years and drink well for several more after that. Clos LaChance has become a go to producer of fine wine for me. I hope you too give them a chance and I suspect you’ll find a winery that consistently produces lovely wines at a fair price.

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Archery Summit - 2007 Premier Cuvée Pinot Noir / 2006 Archery Summit Estate Pinot Noir

Today it’s back to the Willamette Valley in Oregon for The 12 Days of Pinot Noir. Archery Summit Winery has 5 vineyard sites and a total of 115 acres under vine. With laser like focus their entire operation is dedicated to only one thing, Pinot Noir. I fondly recall my stop at Archery Summit when I visited Willamette Valley a couple of years back. Their dedication to Pinot Noir was obvious as was their ability to craft quite a few distinct offerings. So I’m glad to have tasted a couple of current releases that I can include here during The 12 Days of Pinot Noir. The 2007 Archery Summit Premier Cuvée Pinot Noir is produced using fruit from each of their five vineyard sites. This selection is 100% varietal. Barrel aging was accomplished over 10 months in French oak; 54% were new. The suggested retail price for this offering is $48.

Wild strawberry, bing cherry, earth and wisps of porcini mushroom emerge from the inviting nose of this Willamette Valley Cuvée. Black cherry, raspberry and rhubarb are all part of a palate that is full flavored and also gentle in its approach. Black tea, minerals and piney forest floor notes are part of the finish which is significant in length. This wine has good acidity and excellent overall structure.

This Cuvée is quite tasty right now but a few years under good storage conditions and its sure to be even more delicious. My recommendation is to cellar it for 2-3 years and drink it in the 3-4 after that. If you are going to drink it sooner, decanting is most definitely recommended to get the most out of this selection. The gentle palate I reference above is what stood out to me most about this Pinot. There are layers of complexity that continue to emerge as this wine opens up and you let it wash over you. This 2007 Cuvée is a nice selection and good representation of Willamette Valley.

The second wine I’m looking at today is the 2006 Archery Summit Estate. The fruit for this offering is taken from the vineyard that surrounds the winery in the Dundee Hills. This wine is also 100% varietal. Barrel aging was accomplished in French oak (87% new) for 9 months followed by 5 months in older barrels. This offering then spent an additional 1.8 months in stainless steel before bottling. The suggested retail price for this wine is $85.

The beautiful cherry red hue of this wine is quite striking. A ton of dark berry fruit notes emerge from the nose as well as hints of leather. The palate of this wine is rich and layered with plum, blackberry, raspberry and flourishes of black pepper. Pencil lead, earth, mushroom and lingering spice notes are all part of a very lengthy and impressive finish. This Pinot has firm tannins and solid acidity.

The length and complexity of this wine are what impressed me most about it. The finish is noteworthy and the overall flavors are both lush and layered. Everything about the taste of this wine says it wants to be taken very seriously, and it should be. Both of these Pinot Noirs are delicious and well made but the Archery Summit Estate is in a higher league. Cellaring will benefit this wine even more than the Cuvée. I’d hold this for 5-6 years and drink it in the 5 after that. An excellent choice to hold and pull out for a future special occasion.

Archery Summit is making a nice range of wines aimed at the serious Pinot Noir lover. If you enjoy this grape, as I do, they are well worth checking out.

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Cinnabar Winery - 2007 Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir / 2006 Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir

Day 4 finds The 12 Days of Pinot Noir making another stop in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Cinnabar Winery has a history there that dates to 1983. The name of the winery comes from the belief of 14th century alchemists that they could use the mineral Cinnabar to transform everyday metals into gold. Cinnabar Winery founder Tom Mudd applied that magical thought to winemaking. In total Cinnabar Winery produces approximately 17,000 cases per year. Incorporated in that are three lines or tiers of wines. Today I'll look at two of their Pinot Noirs. The Cinnabar Winery 2007 Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir is 100% varietal. The fruit for this selection was sourced at Sleepy Hollow Vineyard. This vineyard sits 400 feet above sea level and was planted in 1973. This wine was aged in small French oak barrels for 11 months; 40% of them were new. The suggested retail price for this selection is $35.

Dark cherry, raspberry and violets are all part of the nose of this Pinot; saddle bag aromas underpin the nose. The palate is loaded with a cornucopia of dark berry fruit throughout. Cherry, raspberry, blackberry and hints of prune abound. These are joined by flourishes of smoked meat. The lengthy finish is highlighted by truffle, charred oak and lingering mineral notes. This Pinot has tremendous acidity and excellent overall structure. Mushroom based dishes and lighter stews will be a perfect match for this wine.

The Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot from Cinnabar really opens up with some time in the glass or better yet a decanter. Time really allows it to express some of the subtler charms and layers that are hidden at first. A delicious Pinot that I would drink over the next 6 or 7 years.

The 2006 Cinnabar Winery Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir is also 100% varietal. All the fruit which was hand harvested is from Dijon clones. Oak aging was accomplished over a year in French oak; 50% of the barrels were new. Only 400 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $36.

The first thing that was striking about the Santa Cruz Pinot is the nose being a bit brighter than the Santa Lucia Highlands selection. It's still loaded with dark fruit notes, but a bit of candied cherry wafts through and makes it presence known. Cedar aromas also come out relatively prominently. Cherry, plum, raspberry and wild mushroom are all part of the solid core of flavor that makes up this Pinots palate. Hints of graphite, flint and earth emerge on the finish along with lingering spice such as nutmeg and cinnamon. firm tannins and excellent acidity frame this Pinot. Grilled lamb kebabs and similar mediterranean cuisine would be an excellent match for this Pinot.

The Santa Cruz Pinot is a bit bigger and a touch bolder than the Santa Lucia selection. Each of them is marked by excellent varietal character and both have tremendous, racy acidity making them classic choices to pair with a wide array of foods. They do drink nicely on their own, but these are food wines. Both will also perform quite well for a number of years and they represent fine values in a category (Pinot Noir) that has a lot of misses. These however are hits.

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The Four Graces - 2006 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir / 2006 Dundee Hills Reserve Pinot Noir

A couple of years ago when I travelled to Willamette Valley in Oregon for the firs time there were several Wineries I had in mind to visit. Some were due to exceptional wines I’d had in the past and a few were based on reputation. As I made my way around for a week the recommendations started to pile up. One that was mentioned to me by several folks was The Four Graces. So towards the end of my week I made it over to visit them and was impressed with the quality of the wines. Thus they seemed like a natural to consider for The 12 Days of Pinot Noir. Steve and Paula Black founded The Four Graces; they selected the name to honor their four daughters. They own two distinct vineyard sites, one in the Yamhill-Carlton District and the other in the Red Hills of Dundee. From these they craft Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and of course Pinot Noir. Today for The 12 Days of Pinot Noir I’ll look at two of their releases.

The Four Graces 2007 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir was produced mostly from fruit sourced at a combination of their Dundee Hills and Yamhill-Carlton vineyards. Aging was accomplished over 10 months in French oak barrels. 11,000 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $29.

Wild blackberry, mushrooms and rhubarb are all part of the inviting, almost intoxicating nose of this Willamette Valley Pinot from The Four Graces. Blackberry is a continued standout through the rich palate where it takes on a savory edge. Forest floor, hints of pine and touches of graphite emerge and shine in the finish of this selection. This wine has lovely tannic structure and terrific acidity.

What stands out most to me about this Pinot is its overall combination of medium bodied, full flavored elegance. This is a fine example of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir which will pair well with a host of foods. I matched it up with Beef Stroganoff and thought it worked wonderfully.

The second selection I’m looking at from The Four Graces is the 2006 Dundee Hills Reserve Pinot Noir. This selection is produced from fruit sourced at their Black Family Estate in the Dundee Hills AVA. They craft the Reserve by selecting the best fruit from specific rows and blocks based on studying their vineyard from vintage to vintage. After 13 months in French oak of which 46% was new they put this wine together by selecting individual barrels. 7 months of additional bottle aging occurred prior to release. 2,755 6 bottle cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $42.

Lavender, blackberry and violets are prominent in the nose of this Reserve Pinot Noir. Taking the first sip it’s apparent this selection is a little tight out of the bottle. I decanted and let it breathe for about an hour which worked out perfectly. A combination of sweet and savory cherry, blackberry and plum are prominent throughout the intensely flavorful palate. A veritable potpourri of spice notes emerge at about mid-palate and continue forward through the finish; cinnamon, nutmeg and mocha are all part of the mix. Cherry cola and subtle ginger character emerges in the lengthy finish. Supple, velvety tannins and firm acidity are part of this wines excellent structure.

This Reserve Pinot is both powerful and elegant. That and the lengthy finish are the two most impressive hallmarks to me. This is an excellent value in Dundee Hills Pinot Noir. It’s delicious now but will certainly improve over the next 3-4 years and drink well for 4-5 after that.

Both of these Pinot Noirs are fine examples of the generally wonderful things being done with Pinot Noir in Willamette Valley. Look for more selections from this region as The 12 Days of Pinot Noir continues.

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Bargetto Winery - 2006/2007 Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir / 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir

The Santa Cruz Mountains figures prominently in the next stop for The 12 Days of Pinot Noir. While the current site of the Bargetto Winery has been in the family since 1918, the family had already been in the business for several years in the San Francisco area. Currently the third generation is at the helm making wine and running the operation. That makes them the oldest continually run winery in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Their 40 acre Regan Estate Vineyards is sustainably farmed. Sustainable practices continue outside of the vineyard and all the way through production. Pinot Noir plays a serious role at Bargetto Winery and I’m going to look at three of their Pinots. Two are consecutive vintages of their Santa Cruz Mountains, and the third their current release Reserve Pinot Noir. The 2006 Bargetto Winery Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir has 5%Petite Sirah blended in. Fruit was sourced from five Santa Cruz Mountains vineyard sources; over 59% was from their Regan Estate Vineyard. The Petite Sirah was sourced in Lodi. This wine spent 10 months in French and American oak of which 20% was new. The suggested retail price for this wine is $25.

The 2006 Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot from Bargetto has a classic cherry red hue. Violets, vanilla and lots of cherry fill out the nose. Copious wild strawberries, nutmeg and subtle rhubarb are all part of the medium bodied palate. Sour cherry, continued nutmeg, and white pepper are all part of the lovely finish to this wine. Soft, yielding tannins are framed by solid acidity.

This is a delicious Pinot Noir which strikes me as a text book example of well made Pinot from Santa Cruz. Quite delicious on its own this wine would be a great one to serve with the varied foods at Thanksgiving.

The 2007 Bargetto Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir was just released to the public last week. The suggested retail price is $25.

From the outset everything about this wine is a bit bigger than the 2006. That starts with a darker, black cherry hue. Dark cherry, cocoa and cinnamon fill the nose. The palate is a bit heftier with slightly sweeter and significantly darker fruit notes. Black tea and mineral notes lead the finish which has savory elements to it as well. Compared to the 2006 this doesn’t have the sour cherry that one did. The tannic structure is tighter and firmer. The age difference is a factor but more than that I’m sure vintage variation plays a role.

If you’re going to drink this wine now, I’d decant it for an hour. It’ll be an excellent match for lamb chops or grilled Mediterranean cuisine in general. I’m impressed with the quality of both of these Pinot’s and the distinctions between them. In this price category wineries often follow a formula and shoot for a flavor profile instead of letting the grapes speak. It’s clear to me Bargetto is letting the land and the fruit speak in these releases. Tasting them side by side is a fascinating comparison that I highly recommend.

The final wine I’m looking at from Bargetto Winery is the 2006 Santa Cruz Mountains Reserve Pinot Noir. This selection is 85.1% Pinot Noir and the balance other varietals. Approximately 85% of the fruit is from Santa Cruz with the balance from Monterey County. Over 62% of the Pinot is from the Regan Estate. This wine was aged for 12 months in French, American and Hungarian Oak; 20% of it was new. Just 254 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $40.

The nose of this Reserve Pinot is loaded with a combination of cherries and strawberries which are underpinned by violets and white pepper. The palate brings to mind a bowl of fresh sweet cherries. The fruit flavors lean dark with flourishes of red fruit peeking through from time to time. Leather, cigar box and sour cherry all emerge on the finish which is of significant length and shows off tingly spice and solid acidity. This Pinot has firm tannins which yield with some air.

What I like about this Reserve Pinot is that it’s a notch or two up the scale in both complexity and length from the non-reserve releases. That said when tasting these it’s possible to see the collective thread between them as well.

I must admit that it’s rare that I like a Pinot Noir that has other varietals blended in. Pinot seems like it most often expresses itself best on its own; I find the other varietals often detract from true Pinot character. However in these three examples from Bargetto Winery I must admit that the Pinot Noir shines through and the other varietals do not in any way detract. Each of these wines is delicious, distinct and also appropriately priced. I heartily recommend all three.

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Beauregard Vineyards - 2006 Bald Mountain Pinot Noir

The next stop for The 12 Days of Pinot Noir is one of several to the Santa Cruz Mountains. I’ve been sampling and ultimately drinking more and more wines from this region over the last few years. I’m happy to report that there are quite a number of wineries turning out excellent wine in this area. The common thread that sticks out for me in the better Santa Cruz Mountains selections I have tried is an outstanding purity of fruit. The first selection I’m looking at from Santa Cruz Mountains during The 12 Days of Pinot Noir is 2006 release from Beauregard Vineyards. While Beauregard Vineyards wasn’t officially launched as a winery until 1999, the family has farmed the area for four generations. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah are amongst the varietals they produce in addition to Pinot Noir.

The 2006 Beauregard Vineyards Pinot Noir is made from fruit sourced at Bald Mountain. This 38 acre parcel is their largest vineyard and has 9 acres planted to Pinot Noir. The suggested retail price for this wine is $45.

Vanilla and dark cherry that’s coated with a slight candied edge fill the nose of this Mountain Pinot Noir. Cranberries and pomegranate are prominent throughout the palate along with layers of raspberry and light flourish of forest floor. Hints of dusty baker’s chocolate and subtle but emerging earth notes lead the lengthy finish along with sour cherry, white pepper, and light cola notes. The tannins are generous and silky, framed by good acidity.

I found this selection from Beauregard Vineyards to be a beautiful expression of mountain grown Pinot Noir. Along the lines of my previous Santa Cruz experiences this wine has a purity of fruit that shines through. This wine is delicious now and will evolve nicely with some additional bottle age. My recommendation would be to lay it down for 2-3 years and drink it in the 5 years after that.

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