Gabe's View


Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

Atttilio Ghisolfi - 2006 Barolo Bussia “Bricco Visette”

There is hardly a more enlightening way to taste wine than at the side of the winemaker who shepherded it into the world. So whenever the opportunity arises to taste in that manner I do everything I can to take part. A few weeks back I was fortunate enough to taste alongside a couple of Italian winemakers. One of them Gianmarco Ghisolfi was there presenting his family wines made in Piedmont. By and large he poured some lovely selections, but my favorite was his 2006 vintage of Barolo, which I’ll look at today. The Atttilio Ghisolfi 2006 Barolo Bussia “Bricco Visette” was produced from fruit sourced at estate vineyards with between 20 and 50 years of age on them. This offering is 100% Nebbiolo. Fermentation took place using native yeasts. 70% of the wine was aged in large French oak barriques with the remaining 30% being aged in smaller French oak barrels; in both cases they spent 30 months in oak. 10 months of bottle aging in a temperature controlled environment followed. 470 cases of this wine were produced in the 2006 vintage and it has a suggested retail price of $79.99.

Rose petal aromas leap from the glass of this 2006 Barolo along with hints of smoke. From the first sip your palate is enveloped by concentrated red fruit flavors accompanied by oodles of spice. This wine is impeccably structured and balanced with a long, dry finish which shows off bits of earth and beckons you back to the glass again and again for sip after sip. This is a harmonious wine made to enjoy with substantial foods. It’s the kind of wine you’ll want to share with a friend over a leisurely meal so you can experience it’s evolution in your glass. In short this wine has the complexity, depth, length and age worthy characteristics that are expected of excellent Barolo.

In listening to Gianmarco he made it clear that one of the goals with his wines, the Barolos in particular is to make traditional offerings. Barolo has a long and storied history; as well a claim to being one of the very best and most age-worthy expressions of wine emanating from Italy. Having tasted several vintages and expressions of Barolo he makes, they’re achieving their goal of making classic, age-worthy Barolo. Their wines are delicious now but most will improve with age. In the case of the 2006 Bricco Visette I expect it to be even more beautiful in 15-20 years than it is today. If you’re looking to lay down some Barolo for a special occasion, here’s one you should strongly consider.

Rodney Strong Vineyards - 2009 Alexander’s Crown Cabernet Sauvignon

Rodney Strong Vineyards has long had a portfolio loaded with varied releases at a number of tiers and in a multitude of styles. The hallmark of their wines in my view has been consistently well made product that is widely available at a fair price. To that already diverse portfolio they have added a trio of higher end, single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons. These smaller production wines have been launched over the last few years and they are each distinct expressions of Cabernet Sauvignon. Today I’ll take a look at the current release of Alexander’s Crown. The Rodney Strong 2009 Alexander’s Crown Cabernet Sauvignon is a single vineyard wine produced from site specific fruit sourced in Alexander Valley. Not only is all of the fruit from one vineyard but it’s from a single block located at the very peak of the vineyard which sits 250-350 feet above sea level. This particular vineyard was established in 1971 and from it came the very first single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon in all of Sonoma County. It is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel aging was accomplished over 23 months in entirely French oak; 40% of the barrels were new. This wine has a suggested retail price of $75.

Blackberry aromas burst forth from the nose of this Cabernet Sauvignon. Accompanying aromas of toast, vanilla and hints of pine resin are present as well. Oodles of deep, dark, ripe berry fruit flavors emerge on the palate which is studded with depth, complexity and graceful power. Black pepper spice plays a role as well and leads into the persistent finish which is marked by chocolate dipped cherry characteristics and wisps of chicory as well as a bit of clove. This is a terrifically structured wine with firm acidity and tannins. It’s delicious now, particularly after an hour or so in the decanter but will be even lovelier if you give it a few years of proper storage. This is another winner from the folks at Rodney Strong Vineyards.

Hawk & Horse Vineyards - 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon

I first tasted some offerings from Hawk and Horse Vineyards about a year ago and was impressed with what they're doing. I have a penchant for boutique wineries and they fit the bill nicely with their well made, hand crafted estate offerings.  Lake County has been on the upswing in a number of ways. More fruit is sourced there, additional wineries are based there and the wine drinking public is more aware of it as a region than even a couple of years ago. These are good things for consumers. I was eager to taste the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon from these folks and experience their latest vintage. The Hawk & Horse Vineyards 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon is an Estate wine. All of the fruit for this offering comes from their Lake County mountain vineyard which is CCOF Organic and Demeter Biodynamic certified. This wine is almost all Cabernet Sauvignon (98%), with a small dollop of Merlot (2%) blended in. The aging of this wine was accomplished over 18 months in French oak; the barrels utilized were a 50/50 split of new and 2 years old. Bottle aging followed prior to releases. 1,150 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $65.

Red floral notes lead the nose of this Cabernet Sauvignon. Hints of cherry, cedar and a touch of spice join in as well. The cherry characteristics continue on the plate where they dominate the show along with additional spice notes and lots of minerals. Earth, espresso and bits of chicory emerge on the finish along bits of leather and wisps of green herbs. This is lovely, dry Mountain Cabernet with terrific structure, firm tannins and length to spare. It’s quite nice now and quite accessible after an hour or so in the decanter. However, if you have the patience to lay this wine down for 5 or more years you’ll be rewarded for your time. Fans of boutique Cabernets from Napa and Sonoma would be well advised to look at the great wines like this one that are emerging from Lake County.

Franciscan Estate - 2007 Magnificat

Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are the wines I first became familiar with in the Franciscan Estate portfolio back in the 90’s. Soon after enjoying those I looked towards their other releases to see what else they were up to. Eventually that led me to their red blend Magnificat, which is their flagship offering. When I’ve gone back to it from time to time over the years I’ve found it to be a consistently well made wine that represents the best of what the folks at Franciscan are up to. Today I’ll look at the 2007 vintage of this wine. The Franciscan Estate 2007 Magnificat is a Bordeaux inspired blend. This wine was produced exclusively from fruit sourced in Napa Valley. The blend consists of Cabernet Sauvignon (71%), Merlot (26%), Petit Verdot (2%) and Malbec (1%). Fermentation and maceration took place over 22 days. Magnificat was aged over 20 months in oak; 89% of the barrels utilized were new and 82% were French. Just fewer than 22,000 cases of this wine were produced in the 2007 vintage. It has a suggested retail price of $50.

Cherry, and Black Raspberry aromas are the most prominent components on the nose of this 2007 Blend. Hints of Eucalyptus chip in as well. Black cherry characteristics carry through the palate along with bits of blackberry, dusty cocoa and copious quantities of spice as well as a gentle kiss of anise. Dark, dusty chocolate notes emerge on the finish along with minerals and continued spice. This is a well structured wine marked by firm acidity and chewy tannins. It’s a bit on the younger side now so I recommend decanting for drinking over the next couple of years. Otherwise hold it for the next decade or so and be prepared to be rewarded for your patience. The bottom line for me is that the 2007 Magnificat is a particularly fine vintage of a wine that is almost always a winner to begin with. It’s well priced for its category and a very solid choice for a special occasion meal.

Benessere Vineyards - 2007 Phenomenon

Benessere Vineyards is a boutique sized winery in Napa Valley that's also a treasure to those lucky enough to discover it. They produce varietally correct wines sourced from their estate vineyards. The fact that they lean towards Italian varietals such as Sangiovese and Pinot Grigio makes them somewhat unique in the valley. Their property is beautiful and the wines are by and large delicious and fairly priced. Today I’ll look at the current release of Phenomenon, their red Super Tuscan inspired blend. The Benessere Vineyards 2007 Phenomenon is a proprietary blend. This Napa Valley wine was made entirely from fruit sourced at their Estate Vineyard in St. Helena. Cabernet Sauvignon (49%), Sangiovese (38%), Merlot (11%), and Syrah (2%) were fermented and barrel aged separately. They were then assembled and barrel aged for two additional years prior to release. Just fewer than 500 cases of this offering were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $50.

The nose of this 2007 blend is loaded with dark fruit aromas and spice. Plum and blueberry characteristics lead the way and they’re accompanied by cardamom, clove, cinnamon, and a hint of eucalyptus. The plate of this wine is impressively loaded with a terrific array of expressive flavors that are lead by deep, dark fruit flavors such as black cherry, and plum. Earth, chicory, black tea and continued waves of spice reverberate on the finish which has terrific length. The 2007 Phenomenon is a great example of what a blend should be; each of the varietals comes together seamlessly to form a cohesive unit. This wine is delicious on its own, but really shines when paired with food. Roasted meats and dishes with red sauce will work well as will medium strength cheeses and charcuterie.

Benessere Vineyards did well to release to release this wine when they did. It’s inviting, engaging and ready to drink now. While it’ll certainly continue to improve for a few years and drink well over the next 6-8, it’s delicious and hard to resist right now. So I vote to pop that cork sooner rather than later. And when your travels take you to Napa Valley, be sure to visit this terrific winery.

Piña Napa Valley - 2009 Firehouse Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

The Piña family has been growing grapes and managing vineyards in Napa Valley for a very long time. Their history in the valley dates back to the 1860’s. Cabernet Sauvignon lovers in particular also know them for the small lots of wines they produce, often from single vineyards. Over the last several vintages I’ve been impressed with the distinct wines they’re producing. Today I’ll look at a new release of one of their Cabs from one of my favorite Napa Valley sub-appellations. The Piña Napa Valley 2009 Firehouse Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is a single site effort. All of the fruit for this wine was sourced at the Firehouse Vineyard in Rutherford, CA. The Piña Family has owned this particular 2.26 acre vineyard since 1960 and it was planted in 2002 and 2005. This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel aging took place over 20 months in entirely French oak; 67% of the barrels were new. 332 cases of this release were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $85.

Deep, dark berry fruit aromas, dominated by blackberry in particular leap from the nose of this wine. The first sip is a touch reticent but this wine opens up quickly in the glass and is raring to go. Plum, blueberry, black raspberry and blackberry all come together to form a conflagration of sweet, dark fruit flavors. Hints of chocolate and spice emerge at the back of the palate and lead to the impressive finish which shows off earth, minerals, chicory, and bits of pencil lead. This wine shows off terrific depth and complexity. It's loaded with bold flavors but also has finesse and grace to spare.

While this Cabernet will age well over the next decade it’s quite accessible and ready to enjoy now. It pairs very well with full flavored foods. This single vineyard effort does a really good job showing off its sense of place; if wine could talk this one would scream, “Rutherford.” There’s a ton of Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa Valley at price points both much higher and lower than this one. Here’s one that spectacularly showcases what well made premium wine from this great Cabernet region can be all about. And yes, it’s worth every penny of the asking price.

Visiting Newton Vineyard on Spring Mountain in Napa Valley

A couple of months back I had the opportunity to taste some of the wines from Newton Vineyard in New York City alongside their winemaker Chris Millard. To say the least I was incredibly impressed with the lineup of wines that he presented that day. So naturally when I was planning a trip to Napa Valley, they were on the short list of places to visit that I’d not been to prior. The bottom line is that I’m quite glad I made them a priority. While Newton Vineyard has a history that stretches back just about 35 years it’s only over the last couple of years that they’ve been open to the public for tours and tastings. Each day they have two set times for those who want to tour and taste. Times are 11:00 AM and 2:30 PM for a tour and tasting at a cost of $40. This option lasts around 90 minutes but will vary based on group size and how interactive everyone on the tour is. For those who simply want to taste the wines, they offer that option each day at 1 PM for $30; the tasting only choice lasts about 45 minutes. Advance reservations are required; check their website for specific details on how to make your reservation. I’m sure that the tasting alone will be fun and rewarding, but I urge you to set aside the extra time to take the tour too, it’s a very good one, and I’ve been on hundreds of them.

Driving up Spring Mountain is always a treat. Even though it’s not that far I feel as if I’m being transported to a land far removed from the relative hustle and bustle of Highway 29. Once you reach the gate for Newton Vineyard you’ll notice a British style phone booth which is a nod to the winery’s co-founder Peter Newton and his heritage. You’ll immediately note that the property itself is stunning, with views to die for.

Visits at Newton start by checking in at the office. Just off to the side you’ll spot the room which will serve as the setting later to taste the wines. The tour of the property includes a magnificent garden that is painstakingly maintained. The garden itself is so stunning that it alone could warrant a trip to Newton Vineyard. Its design as well as that of the overall estate is the brainchild of Su Hua co-founder and wife of Peter Newton. After walking the grounds we saw some of the barrel rooms and winemaking facilities that are on property.

Then it was time to make our way back to the main building where we sat down at a large table in the midst of a beautiful well lit room to taste the wines. The room is gorgeous in its own right and is accented by pieces of art, commissioned each year by the winery from different artists. This is one of those little touches, like a lingering bit of spice on a wine's finish that stay with you long after you leave the winery. Each of the wines we sampled was paired with bites of food. The pairings were well thought out and flawlessly executed. On their own, the wines are terrific, but showcasing them with perfectly paired morsels allows whoever is sampling to experience them at their absolute best. The four wines we tasted were all part of their Unfiltered Tier of offerings which also amount to their reserve wines. These wines are generally distributed and available around the country but not as widely as their Red label wines. The Newton Unfiltered wines are distinct, fruit driven selections that show off their sense of place as well as the varietal used to make them.

There are quite literally hundreds of choices when you visit Napa Valley to go wine tasting. Many of the possible destinations are beautiful and have gorgeous, well made wines. Taking all of that into account Newton Vineyard still stands out. This is a place you want to set aside time for and make an extra effort to be sure you visit. There isn’t anything about it that isn’t lovely, delicious or impressive. This was my first time there and I’ll no doubt go back on a future trip so I can re-experience the perfectly decadent pairings, enjoy the noteworthy views and bask in the great hospitality they provide. If you want to experience the best Napa Valley has to offer, Newton Vineyard needs to be on your itinerary.

Visiting Balletto Vineyards & Winery in Sonoma County

It’s a good thing I keep lists. In this case it’s a list of Wineries in Sonoma County I keep meaning to get to but haven’t yet. Thankfully I can now scratch Balletto Vineyards & Winery off of that list. A couple of years back someone had poured one of their wines for me and It had left an impression. Subsequently a few people whose opinions I trust had mentioned them to me as well. But I kept running out of time on previous trips and never made it there, until last week. I’m quite glad that I did. Balletto Vineyards sits at 5700 Occidental Road, Santa Rosa, CA and their phone number is 707-568-2455. Balletto is open every day from 10 AM to 5 PM. Balletto started out as growers and farmers and they still are, selling off roughly 90% of their fruit in most years. The tasting room has a country charm which instantly brings to mind classic Sonoma County. The day I visited they had roughly ten wines they were pouring. Overall, both whites and reds left a very good impression as did the welcoming nature of their tasting room and operation as a whole. Here’s a look at a few of the wines that stood out the most on my visit.

Balletto Vineyards & Winery 2010 Russian River Valley Estate Pinot Gris is the 9th vintage they have made of this particular release. All of the fruit came from their own vineyards. This wine is 100% Pinot Gris. Just fewer than 2,500 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $18. A welcoming nose shows of bits of Lychee as well as vanilla bean. The palate shows an impression of sweetness in the droves of stone fruit such as Apricot and White Peach. Lemon Zest rounds things out and leads to the finish which is clean and crisp with zippy acidity. This is perfectly suited to pair with spicy food and light meals; it’ll also work perfectly as a welcome wine.

The Balletto Vineyards & Winery  2009 Russian River Valley Estate Gewürztraminer is the 5th vintage they have produced this wine. This is a single vineyard effort with all of the fruit coming from their Piner Road vineyard. It’s 100% Gewüurztraminer. Just over 500 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $18 but when I visited they were selling it for a bit less. White rose petal aromas emerge from the nose of this wine along with loads of fruit and hints of spice. Stone fruits, pear and bits of white pepper and vanilla are present on the palate which is gentle and layered with plenty of complexity. The finish here is lengthy as well as spice and mineral laden. This is a really beautiful example of Gewüurztraminer, something a bit too rare in California. Whether you drink it on it’s own or pair it with light foods, this wine is a sure fire winner.

The Balletto Vineyards & Winery 2011 Russian River Valley Estate Pinot Noir was produced from fruit sourced at 5 different vineyards within the winery’s Estate holdings. It’s all Estate fruit and this is the 11th year that they have produced this offering. It’s 100% Pinot Noir. Just fewer than 3.900 cases of this brand new release were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $29. Bits of tea and strawberry emerge on the slightly reticent nose of this 2011 Pinot Noir. This is a new release a bit on the young side and some additional time in the bottle will be a benefit. Cherry and cranberry lead the palate which has good depth as well as being gentle and proportionate. Nutmeg and clove as well as white pepper emerge on the finish along with bits of mineral characteristics. This is a really nice Cuvee style Pinot Noir that you should decant for an hour or two if you’re going to drink it soon. Otherwise hold it for another year or so and it’ll be immediately approachable.

The Balletto Vineyards & Winery 2009 Russian River Valley Estate Syrah is a Single site effort with all of the fruit coming from their Estate BCD Vineyard. This is the 5th vintage they have produced this wine. A mere 210 cases were made and it has a suggested retail price of $24. Aromas of smoked meats and black fruits fill the deep, dark nose of this Syrah. Dark, brooding fruits continue on the palate along with spices that include both white and black pepper. The smoked meat characteristics continue on the lengthy finish along with bits of dark, dusty chocolate. This wine, which is a killer example of how well Syrah can be made in CA when it’s grown and treated right, will pair well with a host of bold meat dishes.

I highly recommend Balletto Vineyards & Winery as a stop to anyone visiting Sonoma County. The wines are well made, delicious and quite reasonably priced. The folks manning the tasting room are friendly, welcoming and informative. In short it’s a great place to while away some time, tasting excellent wine. The day I visited they had several wines on sale which made those particular wines nothing short of a steal. It took me awhile to get there, but I’ll be back, on my very next trip.

Visiting Trefethen Family Vineyards in Napa Valley

Trefethen Family Vineyards is a classic Napa valley spot. As you drive north on Route 29 their sign is amongst the very first you’ll see; long before the highway gets crowed with one tasting room after another. If you hang a right turn onto Oak Knoll Avenue you’ll come upon their entryway before long. Ambling up their driveway it’s interesting to note how neatly tucked into the property they are. Eventually you’ll come upon a historic building that dates back to the 1800’s. Once inside the tasting room the atmosphere has a lovely rustic feel. They offer several tasting options as well as tour which is available daily at 10:30 AM by prior appointment. Their Estate tasting which is $15 offers a choice of four wines from their current releases. Their Reserve tasting is $25 and focuses on their more limited offerings. Trefethen also has some special events and after-hours tastings, check their website for specific details. The wines at Trefethen are by and large well balanced offerings that showcase terrific varietal qualities. There wasn’t a wine in their lineup that I wouldn’t be happy to drink on any given day but three of them really stood out to me and here are some details on them.

The Trefethen Family Vineyards 2011 Dry Riesling was produced entirely from fruit sourced at their home ranch on Oak Knoll Road. This offering is 100% Riesling. This is one of their selections which are available nationally and it has a suggested retail price of $22. This is a spicy, dry wine with a hugely aromatic nose, lovely mid-palate loaded with gentle fruit flavors, crisp minerality and continued spice on the finish. Whether enjoyed on its own or paired with lighter foods this is an impressive Riesling sure to leave a lasting memory.

The Trefethen Family Vineyards 2010 Viognier is a small production wine produced from fruit sourced at their home estate. This wine was crafted entirely from Viognier. It’s for sale through the winery at a price of $30. Tropical fruit aromas and hints of vanilla bean lead the nose followed by a palate loaded with unctuous fruit flavors that go on and on. A hint of crème fraiche accompanies spice notes on the finish. This is a beautiful wine all by itself but will pair wonderfully with soft ripe cheeses and roast chicken dishes to name a few.

The Trefethen Family Vineyards 2008 Cabernet Franc was produced largely from fruit sourced at their home ranch (92%), along with a small amount (8%) from their Hillspring Vineyard. This small lot wine is available from the winery for $38. The Franc opens with a huge nose loaded with leather and cherry aromas. The palate has depth and complexity to spare as gently layered flavors just wash over your taste buds. Cherry characteristics continue and give way to graphite, earth and bits of espresso on the impressive finish. This is a perfect wine to pair with a Sunday roast.

If you’re travelling to Napa Valley I highly recommend that you add Trefethen Family Vineyards to your itinerary. They have a long history in Napa that grows with each passing year. Their wines are classically styled offerings that don’t bend to the whims of the day; solid, impressive wines you can buy with confidence to enjoy today or in several cases lay down for later enjoyment as well. It’s always fun to visit the new kids on the block and see what they’re up to. But it can be equally rewarding and delicious to visit with folks who have been getting it done, with class, for decades. The folks at Trefethen are welcoming and knowledgeable people who are happy to pour some wine for you and tell you the history of the property, winery itself or the wine you're tasting. In short you can't go wrong with an hour or two whiled away at Trefethen.

Sandeman - 2000 Vau Vintage Port

A couple of years ago I visited Sandeman Cellars and had the opportunity to taste many of their wines with George Sandeman himself. This was a terrific experience that shed light on them as a producer and allowed me to learn a great deal about their wines. So when the opportunity to attend a virtual tasting with George came up, I leapt at the chance. Last week in cooperation with Snooth that tasting took place. While each of the four wines I sampled was terrific in its own right, it was the 2000 Vau Vintage that really knocked me out. So here's a look at that wine and what makes it special. The Sandeman 2000 Vau Vintage is made in the same manner as a traditional Vintage Port. The varietals utilized are Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, and Touriga Franca. The Vau Vintage is made in a style intended to enjoy in its youth. This wine most often sells for around $35. Aromas of Cherry, plums, and spice fill the nose of this Port. Black and red cherry flavors dominate the palate with bits of chocolate present as well. Plum pudding and fruitcake spices are in strong evidence throughout and add depth to the impressive and layered nature of this wine. Kirsch liqueur and bits of espresso emerge on the long and lusty finish of this wine. Whether you drink this wine alongside decadent dishes or make it dessert all by itself you’re sure to be impressed by this wonderful expression of Port.

The 2000 Vau Vintage is a remarkably good value. It’s drinking phenomenally right now and while it is intended for youthful drinking it does have the structure to improve and drink well for quite awhile. The 2000 Vau Vintage from Sandeman Cellars will evolve and be an enjoyable wine to drink for the next 10 to 15 years. That said it’s hard to resist now, particularly when it’s paired with rich chocolaty dishes. So let the declared vintages rest comfortably in your cellar while you enjoy Sandeman's Vau Vintage.

Franciscan Estate - 2010 Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay

Franciscan Estate is a Napa Winery that has been a mainstay in the valley for close to 40 years. Their wines are available all over the country and many of the labels peak out from the shelves like familiar friends that want to come out and play. Today I’ll take a look at their relatively small production Chardonnay, Cuvée Sauvage, a wine that hasn’t been around quite as long as some of their other releases. The Franciscan Estate 2010 Cuvée Sauvage Chardonnay was produced entirely from fruit sourced in the Carneros appellation of Napa Valley. This wine is 100% Chardonnay. The wine was fermented entirely in barrel utilizing only native yeats. All of the barrels were French oak; 86% of them were new. Aging took place over a period of 14 months. Just over 1,400 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $40.

Aromas of Anjou pear, vanilla bean and cardamom fill the appealing and welcoming nose of this 2010 Chardonnay. Lemon zest, orchard fruit in droves and bits of crème fraiche are all present on the palate which is layered and intense while retaining grace and precision. A bevy of spices including white pepper and clove are in evidence throughout the lengthy finish along with lemon ice and continued pear and apple flavors. This is an elegant and impressive expression of Chardonnay that is well worth the bottle price. There’s a lot of Chardonnay from Napa Valley out there, this is an example that is both reasonably easy to find and well worth sampling because it stands apart from the pack a bit.

Rodney Strong Vineyards - 2010 Chalk Hill Chardonnay / 2010 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Rodney Strong Vineyards is a Sonoma County producer with an impressive and consumer friendly portfolio. If you’re a wine lover there’s a very good chance they have something you’ll like that also fits into your budget. Today I’ll take a look at two of their wines that I have tasted over numerous vintages which are consistently well made year after year. The Rodney Strong Vineyards 2010 Chalk Hill Chardonnay was produced entirely from fruit sourced in the Chalk Hill appellation of Sonoma County. This offering is 100% Chardonnay. 92% of the wine was fermented in French oak and underwent malolactic fermentation. That portion was also aged in new and seasoned barrels for 9 months; the balance was fermented and aged in stainless steel. This widely available wine has a suggested retail price of $20. Aromas of vanilla, lemon zest and subtle toast emerge from the nose of this Chardonnay. Bartlett pear and yellow delicious apple flavors are dominant through the palate along with a wallop of zesty lemon curd which is one of the hallmarks of this wine year after year. Minerals, white pepper and baker’s spice are part of the finish along with hints of creaminess. Firm structure marked by solid acidity makes this a Chardonnay well heeled to pair with a variety of food styles. The Chalk Hill release from Rodney Strong is in that beautiful middle ground of Chardonnays that showcase pure fruit that are enhanced by judicious use of oak which is clearly present but never detracts. Drink it up, they make more every year.

The Rodney Strong Vineyards 2010 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir was produced from fruit sourced at a number of vineyards. The River East vineyard in Healdsburg which was planted by Rod Strong in 1968 is a chief contributor. This wine is 100% varietal. Barrel aging occurred over 11 months in entirely French oak. This wine is readily available nationally and has a suggested retail price of $20. Strawberry, leather, and cinnamon aromas are well represented on the nose of this Russian River Pinot Noir. Black Cherry flavors leads the palate and they’re joined by red plum, as well as continued bits of strawberry. Black tea, pepper and a treasure trove of spices as well as hints of red apple emerge on the finish which has very good length. Racy acidity and nice overall structure help make this a versatile food wine. If you’re looking for a dependable Russian River Pinot Noir for around $20, this wine has got to be on your list.

It’s probably clear by now that I’m a big fan of the Rodney Strong Vineyards wines. As much as I do like the wines though, I’m an even bigger fan of what this winery represents. They’re a widely available brand that provides fair value at numerous price tiers. Consumers should have the confidence to buy wine with the Rodney Strong name on it knowing that they are getting a well made wine that represents a real place, Sonoma County. Not everyone has the wide selection available that we do in some parts of the country, the time to research them when we do or in some cases the resources to blindly take a chance on a bottle. With Rodney Strong Vineyards you’re placing a safe bet that you will win.

Black Stallion Estate Winery - 2010 Napa Valley Chardonnay

The Silverado Trail in Napa Valley has been flourishing for years now. However it’s not nearly as populated as Highway 29, and on a busy day it’s still a safe bet for easier travelling. But it’s no longer the secret it may once have been. Savvy wine lovers know that there are excellent wineries of every size and scope throughout Napa Valley, Silverado Trail is a microcosm of that with both small family owned wineries and larger producers dotting its landscape. Black Stallion Winery sits towards the very southern end of the trail. Today I’ll take a look at their current release of Chardonnay. The Black Stallion Estate Winery 2010 Napa Valley Chardonnay was produced from fruit sourced in several Napa sub-appellations including Carneros, Green Island and Rutherford. This wine is 100% Chardonnay. All of the fruit was hand harvested and gently crushed into stainless steel tanks where fermentation began by adding select yeasts. After the yeast was introduced the juice was moved to French oak. 85% of the wine underwent Malolactic Fermentation. The total time in oak was 7 months. 9,000 cases of this Chardonnay were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

Fresh orchard fruit aromas are joined by lemon curd on the welcoming nose of this 2010 Chardonnay. Pineapple and mango are a couple of the tropical fruits that light up the gorgeous palate of this wine along with orchard fruits such as apple and pear. A burst of baker’s spice is present as well. Minerals, continued fruit and a final tingly conglomeration of spices are all present on the finish which has good length.

Black Stallion’s 2010 Napa Valley Chardonnay is a very solid value for its category. This is a well made wine showing off good varietal character. With 9,000 cases produced it should be easy enough to locate. If your taste in Chardonnay runs towards the style that showcases fruit which has been gently enhanced by oak this might just be the wine for you.

Drink Pink: A Quartet of Tasty Rosé’s Perfectly Suited for Summer !!

Rosé is one of the things in the wine world that I most enjoy about summer. Theoretically they taste just as good in cooler months. However to my lips, when the temperature rises, well made Rosé is even more delicious and tempting. Part of their appeal is their versatility with food. Their refreshing nature and the fact that they feature some of the characteristics of both red and white wines all lend to what makes them cherished by many wine lovers. Today I’ll look at a quartet of current Rosés from California producers. First up is the Pedroncelli 2011 Dry Rosé of Zinfandel. This Rosé is produced from fruit sourced in the winery’s home appellation of Dry Creek Valley. It’s a 100% varietal wine. Pedroncelli has been making Rosé since the 1950’s. Fermentation took place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. This wine saw no oak treatment. Just fewer than 1,000 cases were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $11. Aromas of strawberry and raspberry emerge from the welcoming nose of this Rosé. Cherry flavors dominate the palate along with hints of white pepper. Vanilla, and continuing juicy red fruit flavors continue on the crisp and refreshing finish. This a lovely dry Rosé of Zinfandel with some perceived sweetness from all the engaging fruit flavors. This is an excellent choice for a picnic.

Next up is Clayhouse Wines 2011 Adobe Pink. This wine was produced from fruit sourced at the winery’s Red Cedar Vineyard located at the outskirts of Paso Robles. It’s a blend of Mourvedre (38%), Grenache Noir (37%), and Syrah (25%). Harvesting, crushing and processing of the grapes was handled as white varietals would be. Following fermentation in stainless steel, 25% of the wine spent 2 months in neutral oak. 600 cases of this selection were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $14. Bright red fruit aromas and hints of citrus are apparent on the nose of this wine. Strawberry, cherry and bits of vanilla bean are apparent through the palate. This wine is incredibly fruity and juicy with just a touch of sweetness to round things out. Raspberry and continued cherry flavors close things out with bits of spice weaving in and out. This Rosé works particularly well ice cold.

Today’s third wine is the Cornerstone Cellars 2011 Stepping Stone Corallina Syrah Rosé. The fruit for this wine was sourced in the Oak Knoll appellation within Napa Valley. This offering was produced entirely from Syrah. Fermentation took place in temperature controlled stainless steel followed by 5 months of aging in neutral French oak. 455 cases of the Corallina were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $20. The Corallina Rosé from Cornerstone opens with a highly engaging and deeply perfumed nose. Red and black cherries are joined by a crush of spices including vanilla bean. The palate is loaded with continued red fruit characteristics including strawberries, cherries, hints of green herbs and a crush of spices led by nutmeg and white pepper. This wine is crisp, dry and refreshing. The finish shows off wisps of sour red fruits and a touch of crème fraiche. This is an very nice example of Rosé from Napa Valley and it will be an excellent partner to a wide array of summer foods.

Today’s final wine is the V. Sattui Winery 2011 North Coast Rosato. This wine is a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignane. Fermentation took place with select yeast in temperature controlled stainless steel. This Rosé is available directly from the winery for $21.75. The first thing you’ll notice about the V. Sattui Rosé is that it has a slightly darker hue than the average. Made up of classic varietals the nose of this wine leaps from the glass with rich, red fruit aromas. Strawberry, red plum and a hint of red apple are apparent on the palate along with a bit of quince. Bright cherry, red raspberry, black and white pepper are all part of the finish which shows off the impression of sweetness due to all the engaging fruit flavors. This wine has a bit more heft than the other Rosé’s above and thus will stand up to some more substantial foods. Anything off of the grill will work perfectly.

This quartet of Rosé’s should keep your taste buds lit up all summer long. Whether you’re looking for a refreshing glass of wine to enjoy on your deck or something to pair with the foods of summer, I urge you to enjoy some Rosé this summer.

Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery - 2010 Sauvignon Blanc / 2009 Pinot Noir

Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery has a distinguished history in Sonoma County as a producer. They’re best known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay made with Burgundian intent. Their portfolio offers several other varietals as well. Today I’ll look at two of their current releases. The Gary Farrell 2010 Sauvignon Blanc was produced from fruit sourced at Redwood Ranch in Sonoma County. This vineyard sits at the very southern end of Alexander Valley. The vines sourced for this offering were planted in 1997. The Gary Farrell 2010 Sauvignon Blanc is a 100% varietal wine. This wine was bottled n January 2011 after a short time in oak. Just over 1,500 cases of this offering were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $25. Pear and citrus aromas fill the nose of this 2010 Sauvignon Blanc. Copious quantities of citrus and topical fruit flavors such as yellow plum, mango and lemon zest are layered throughout a welcoming and weighty mid-palate. Spice and continued fruit flavors fill the impressively lengthy finish of this Sauvignon Blanc. If you prefer Sauvignon Blanc that leans towards the tropical and fruity side, this beauty is for you.

The Gary Farrell 2009 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir was produced from fruit sourced at a small handful of Vineyards. These well known growers within Russian River Valley are regarded specifically for Pinot Noir. The fruit was hand picked over a period of roughly 30 days as each source came to maturity. Barrel aging took place over roughly 8 months. 3,230 cases of this widely available offering were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $42. Wild Strawberry, clove, cardamom, and tobacco aromas are all in evidence on the engaging nose of this 2009 Pinot Noir. Black cherry and leather emerge from the palate along with continued strawberry and spice. Black pepper, graphite and bits of cola along with sour cherry, pomegranate and a touch of toast are present on the finish which has above average length. Firm acidity marks the fine structure of this wine which is delicious now but will improve over the next handful of years and drink well for a decade.

Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery has long been associated with quality wines from Sonoma County that exhibit a wonderful sense of place. Both of these wines continue that story and each of them is well worth seeking out.

Poggiotondo - 2011 Vermentino IGT / 2010 Rosso IGT

Italy is well represented on the shelves of good US wine shops. Whether you’re looking for a Barolo, Chianti Classico or Amarone you shouldn’t have any trouble finding what you’re in the mood for. Over time the availability of some varietals that are lesser know to us in America are increasing as are the number of blends that utilize both indigenous and international grapes. Here’s a look at a couple of current releases from Poggiotondo that fall into those categories. The Poggiotondo 2011 Vermentino IGT was produced from fruit sourced in the winery’s home region of Tuscany. This offering is 100% Vermentino. Fermentation took place in a combination of stainless steel (85%) and French oak (15%). Their estate which is over 123 acres has both vines and olive trees on it. After fermentation this wine saw two months of contact with the lees during aging. This wine has a suggested retail price of $20. Lemon zest, hazelnut and mango aromas are all prevalent on the nose of this Vermentino. Bartlett pear and yellow delicious apple flavors are on display throughout the palate along with hints of grapefruit. An impressive amount of minerality is in evidence throughout, particularly on the finish which has excellent length. The Poggiotondo Vermentino has lively acidity and nice structure; it's a pleasure to drink on its own but it’s truly made to pair with food. I enjoyed it alongside a roasted beet salad with goat cheese which worked perfectly. This wine is best served a couple of degrees warmer than the average white wine. That really allows it to open up and show its true charms.

The Poggiotondo 2010 Rosso IGT is a blend of Sangiovese (40%), Merlot (30%) and Syrah (30%). The fruit for this wine comes from their home estate in the north-western end of Tuscany. After hand harvesting the grapes underwent a pre-ferment and cold soak. Fermentation followed in stainless steel tanks followed by 8 months of aging. A final two months of time in bottle was allowed prior to release. This wine has a suggested retail price of $11. Red cherry, earth and hints of green herb are prominent on the nose of this Red Tuscan blend. Blueberry, raspberry and cherry flavors (black and red) emerge on the palate of this wine along with bits of leather. Cranberry, rhubarb as well as bits of smoke and spice are part of the finish which has good length. Firm zippy acidity helps make this a nice everyday food wine. This is a good selection for Pizza night or with grilled meats.

These wines from Poggiotondo represent good values for everyday consumption. They each show off good character and are fruit driven wines that will work particularly well with food. Both should be consumed over the next few years for maximum pleasure.

Smith-Madrone Vineyards and Winery - 2009 Chardonnay / 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

Sometimes wine lovers bemoan the state of Napa Valley. People are heard to complain about the number of ostentatious wineries and tasting room that have taken hold of the Valley and along with that they talk about how it was in the old days when Napa had a small number of producers and a visit meant tasting with the owner who was often also the winemaker. The trouble with that line of thought is that there are still many family owned Wineries in Napa Valley that belie the image of Napa as only lavish tasting rooms and over the top facilities. Smith-Madrone Vineyards and Winery is a shining example of a small family owned and run Winery. A visit there is in some ways a visit to a simpler time in Napa Valley. They’re a boutique producer that focuses on Estate grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Riesling. When you visit you’ll see their property with either Stu or Charles Smith or if you’re really lucky both of them. They grow the grapes, make the wine and do pretty much everything from soup to nuts that’s involved in bringing their wines to your table. That’s the way it’s been since they were founded in the very early 70’s. Their location up on Spring Mountain is a bit removed from the hustle and bustle of the valley floor, but it’s not a far ride. Once you’re up there though you’ll feel like you’ve traveled to a magical land where all that matters is the way the grapes are grown, picked and vinified to make offerings that represent the location they came from.

I recently had dinner with Stu Smith who started the winery in 1971. It’s been my fortune to spend some time with Stu on a few occasions and I’m always impressed by how unvarnished, real and without pretense he is. The truth is you can discover the very same thing simply by drinking their wines. They make approximately 4,000 cases of wine each year entirely from their own property. Everything about Smith-Madrone comes from the two brothers. They planted the vines and in the 41 years they’ve been in operation have replanted sections of the vineyard in some cases too. They are as truly Napa Valley as any producer on the map. Their wines are made in a genuine style that lends itself to immediate enjoyment upon release as well as age ability. These are not wines that are produced in a vacuum with the idea of trying to gain high scores on someone’s point system. These are wines grown, pressed and aged in the same ecosystem, every vintage, for over 40 years. The Smith-Madrone wines are alive, delicious and most importantly a true representation of the spirit and desire of two brothers to make great wine in their little corner of the world. With that here’s a look at a couple of the wines I tasted over dinner with Stu and then re-tasted a couple of days ago.

First up is the Smith-Madrone Vineyards and Winery 2009 Chardonnay. All of the fruit for this wine came from their home ranch on Spring Mountain. Their Chardonnay vines have 37 years of age on them. This offering which is entirely Chardonnay was barrel fermented and aged in entirely new French oak over a nine month period. Just over 500 cases were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $35. Apple pie aromas dominate the nose of this Chardonnay and they are underscored by pleasing hints of lemon curd. The palate is marked by the intensity of its Chardonnay character in the form of pure and unadulterated fruit. Apple flavors dominate things here with spice and minerals galore to add to the complexity. Nutmeg, clove and continued mineral characteristics are all in evidence on the finish which has excellent length. Firm, zippy acidity adds to the wonderful structure and balance of this Chardonnay. The Smith-Madrone Chardonnay is nothing short of an absolute joy to drink. It’s also a wine that will age gracefully and be quite enjoyable and drinkable over the next 8 or so years at minimum.

The second wine today is the Smith-Madrone Vineyards and Winery 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon. All of the fruit came from their home ranch in the Spring Mountain area of Napa Valley. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (85%), this wine contains Merlot (6%), and Cabernet Franc (9%). The vines had 34 years of age on them at the time of harvest. This Cabernet spent 22 months aging in American oak. The Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon was bottled unfined and unfiltered. Just fewer than 1,500 cases were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $45. Aromas of fresh black fruits such as blackberry, currant, and black cherry fill the inviting nose of this 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon. Wisps of toast and herb characteristics are present as well. There is a depth, power and complexity to the palate of this wine that immediately impresses as soon as you take a sip and let it envelop your senses. This wine is intense but precise and measured. As with all of the Smith-Madrone wines it’s balanced and proportionate. Cherry flavors, both black and red dominate the palate along with hints of mushroom and leather as well as black pepper. The finish here is long and lush with the depth that is often associated with great Napa Mountain Cabernet. Earth, baker’s chocolate, black tea and hints of graphite are all present. This Cabernet will certainly age and improve in the bottle over the next 15 or so years. However it’s quite ready to drink now, a benefit of Charles and Stu holding their wines until they are drinkable. If you do drink it now you have the choice of decanting it for an hour or so or watching as it develops in your glass over a leisurely meal. In any case you’ll be drinking one of the very best Cabernet’s from Napa Valley regardless of price point.

If you have yet to taste the wines of Smith-Madrone I urge you to do so at your earliest convenience. In addition to being well made and delicious they are also fairly priced. The Cabernet Sauvignon in particular is a terrific bargain relative to many of the Napa Cabernet’s of similar quality. In addition to drinking these offerings, I urge anyone travelling to Napa Valley to take the time and make an appointment so you can visit the lovely folks at Smith-Madrone; your time there will undoubtedly become a memorable visit you will cherish as you drink the wine you will have brought back home with you. So don’t bemoan the over the top tasting rooms at some Napa Wineries, enjoy them for what they are. But when you want to get to the pulse of Napa Valley, point your car up Spring Mountain either literally or via your local wine shop and enjoy the wines of Smith-Madrone.

Tasting the Wines of Villa Huesgen with Winemaker Adolph Huesgen

Wines originating from some countries have filled our shelves for years, and in the case of other countries we are just starting to see a representative sampling of offerings. Wines from Germany are sort of in a third category; we’ve had wines from there available for many years but often many of the options weren’t as appealing as they could be. For the range of styles and wines that are made there, the majority of releases we saw were a bit limited in diversity. Thankfully that has been changing quite a bit the last few years. We are seeing more well made German wines. Case in point; A couple of days ago I had the opportunity to have lunch with and taste three releases made by Adolph Huesgen. He is the 9th generation owner and winemaker for his family’s Villa Huesgen. The focus at Villa Huesgen is laser like and aimed squarely at Riesling. As Adolph explained their vineyards and microclimate are perfectly suited for Riesling more than any other grape, therefore their aim is to make the best Rieslings they can. In the last few months their wines have entered the US market for the very first time. They are a boutique winery making relatively small quantities of authentic Riesling; in short precisely the sort of producer lovers of German wines will want to embrace. What follows are some details and impressions of the three releases. First up is the Villa Huesgen 2010 Nine Generations Riesling. The fruit is from their home region in the Mosel.  The vines sourced have between 5 and 10 years of age on them. After undergoing soft air pressing the juice is moved to stainless steel where it sits for about 12 hours before moving to tank, 9,000 cases of this release were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $19.99. White and yellow stone fruit aromas fill the nose of this wine. Peach and apricot are of particular note. Those characteristics continue on the palate where they’re joined by mineral notes, racy spices and lemon zest. This wine has a crisp finish that leaves a lasting impression with tingly white pepper providing the final note. Of the trio this is the wine that I enjoyed best as a standalone offering. It will pair with lighter foods as well but it doesn’t need them.

Next up is the Villa Huesgen 2010 Schiefer Riesling. The grapes for this wine are from the Mosel; the vines sourced have 3o to 35 years of age on them. Fruit was soft air pressed and transferred into stainless steel tanks for 12 hours before being moved to tank for the fermentation process. 4,000 cases of this release were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $34.99. Apricot, Lychee fruit and yellow cling peach aromas burst forth from the glass of the Schiefer Riesling. The palate is rich and concentrated with powerful (relatively speaking as these are wines of finesse) Riesling character. Peaches and apricot are joined by a subtle hint of hazelnut and a touch of lemon crème. The finish of this wine is above average in length and the layered, complex and concentrated flavors continue. Lingering apricot notes tinged with spice provide a lasting impression. This wine paired wonderfully with both a rice-flour battered chicken dish and an artichoke risotto. It would work equally well with pungent cheeses and other dishes of some substance. The Schiefer Riesling wine was enjoyable  on it’s own and it also worked phenomenally paired with food.

Finally we come to the Villa Huesgen 2010 Kabinett Riesling. Fruit for this wine was sourced in theMosel. The vines utilized have an average of 30 to 35 years of age on them. The soft air pressing, fermentation, and aging process is the same as the two prior wines. 2,000 cases of this offering were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $39.99. From the first whiff of this wine its semi-dry nature is apparent. The aromas of apricot, mango, nectarine and lemon zest come together and form a lovely nose that immediately inspires you to take a sip. The palate is quite a bit more mellifluous in nature than the other two wines with there being both more actual sweetness as well as a greater impression of sweetness simultaneously. Each of the fruits apparent in the nose has corresponding flavor components in evidence here as well. The finish has good length and leaves a lasting kiss of sweetness on the tongue and back of the throat. This wine will pair fabulously with spicy Indian cuisine as well as well selected desserts. That said it will work just as well all by itself.

This is an impressive trio of Rieslings from Villa Huesgen. Alcohol content for all 3 is well under 12% making them wines which you can easily enjoy several glasses of without your palate tiring. Tasting them side by side is a nice window into several sides of one grape. Each of these wines is distinct, well made and quite importantly worth your money. My personal favorite is the Schiefer, however I’d gladly enjoy any of these on a given day. These are proportionate wines which are delicious today but they will each drink well for a number of years. I highly recommend heading to your local wine shop and welcoming Villa Huesgen to the states by purchasing and enjoying one of their very fine Rieslings.

Bodegas Sumarroca - 2010 Temps de Flors

The Bodegas Sumarroca 2010 Temps de Flors was produced from fruit sourced in the D.O. of Penedès near Barcelona. This offering is a blend of Muscat (40%), Xarel-lo (48%), and Gewürztraminer (12%). Xarel-lo is a local indigenous grape that is often utilized in the production of Cava, which Bodegas Sumarroca is recognized for. This wine widely available wine was named for the Temps De Flors that occurs in Girona Spain over nine days each May. It has a suggested retail price of $12.99. The Temps De Flors has an impressively expressive and aromatic nose that is loaded with Apricot and Lychee Fruit characteristics. The plate is impeccably balanced and shows off sweet fruit flavors such as peach and apricot as well as zesty citrus and sour white fruits. Hints of white pepper and subtle wisps of cardamom emerge on the finish which has good length.

Someone apparently figured out how to bottle summer. This wine will work perfectly as a welcome wine and it will also pair well with lighter spicy foods. Indian Cuisine would be a terrific match. The low alcohol (12%) also makes this an easy choice to drink without worry about your palate tiring. This is precisely the sort of well made, light, refreshing and fun wine that's perfectly suited for summer gatherings with friends or just a casual meal on your deck any night of the week. You’ll find this wine for closer to $10 if you shop around and it represents a very nice value for such an appealing and fun to drink blend.

Craggy Range - 2011 Kidnapper’s Vineyard Chardonnay

The Craggy Range 2011 Kidnapper’s Vineyard Chardonnay is a single vineyard wine produced exclusively from fruit sourced at the namesake site. Kidnapper’s Vineyard is located in the Hawkes Bay appellation of New Zealand. After harvesting fermentation took place in a combination of vessels; both large and small oak containers were used as well as stainless steel tanks. Some of the fruit had been de-stemmed prior (25%), while the balance was whole cluster pressed. Barrel aging took place over 5 months in a combination of French oak barriques, puncheons and cuves; 12% of the oak utilized was new. This widely available wine has a suggested retail price of $21.99. Lemon zest, vanilla bean and wisps of toasted nuts fill the vibrant nose of this 2011 Chardonnay. Apples and white peach flavors lead the palate which is impressive for its pure and unadulterated blast of pure Chardonnay fruit. Continued fruit and nut characteristics are joined by a bevy of spices such a clove and nutmeg on the finish which has excellent length. This is a balanced Chardonnay that shows off firm acidity and a lovely structure. The Kidnapper’s Vineyard Chardonnay is going to be equally adept at quenching thirst on it’s own as it will be paired with the lighter foods that are prevalent in warm weather months.

There are a ton of Chardonnay options on our shelves, emanating from just about every corner of the globe. The styles and flavors are almost as diverse as the number of options. This particular wine is a great choice if you’re looking for a Chardonnay that showcases rather than hides its brilliant fruit flavors. For less than $20 if you shop around this wine is also more than fairly priced.