Gabe's View


Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

Hawk and Horse Vineyards - 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon

Hawk and Horse Vineyards was founded close to 15 years ago. It remains what it started as, a family owned and run winery specializing in a couple of small lot wines. I’ve become familiar with (and fond of) their releases over the last couple of vintages. So I was looking forward to tasting their newest Cabernet Sauvignon. The Hawk and Horse Vineyards 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon is an estate wine. All of the fruit comes from the winery’s property in the Red Hills AVA of Lake County. They farm their 18 acre mountain property utilizing Biodynamic and Organic methods. The 2009 vintage is a 100% varietal wine. After fermentation this wine was aged over 23 months in entirely new French oak. 1,350 cases were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $65.00.

Rose petals, cherries and wisps of cinnamon all emerge with conviction from the nose of this 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon. Red fruits are prominent through the palate with black fruit characteristics playing a supporting role. Black pepper and hints of Bay are present as well. The finish is long and sustained with elements of Rhubarb, sour cherry, dusty chocolate and earth all in play. The well integrated tannins and solid acidity provide great structure and backbone for this offering. This wine works extremely well with hearty cuisine.

This is another solid entry from the folks at Hawk and Horse Vineyards. One vintage after another they’re shepherding their property so they can use it to craft well made releases such as this. While this Cabernet is delicious now I do believe it will benefit from a couple more years of bottle age. If you’re drinking it now, I’d recommend decanting it for a few hours. However if you can wait, lay it down for 2-3 years and reap the rewards of patience.

Queulat - 2012 Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc / 2011 Gran Reserva Pinot Noir

QUEULAT SBOne of the things I enjoy about the way Chilean winery’s are often setup is the tier system. Many times a single winery has numerous designations of wines in a variety of price tiers. Most importantly the intent of the wines in each tier tends to be distinct from others. Viña Ventisquero is such a winery. Under the Queulat tier they make Single vineyard wines. The name of this tier comes from a hanging glacier in Southern Chile. Today I’ll look at 2 of the wines in this tier which also features Carmenère, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, and Syrah. The Queulat 2012 Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc was made from fruit sourced in the Ledya Valley. This is a single vineyard offering made entirely of Sauvignon Blanc. The fruit was hand harvested, and sorted once back at the winery. After a cold soak of roughly 13 hours the wine underwent a slow, fermentation at controlled, low temperatures. Four months on the lees followed prior to bottling. This wine has a suggested retail price of $17.99. Aromas of hibiscus and a boatload of citrusy notes fill the nose of this Sauvignon Blanc. The palate is deeply complex with tart green apples, continued citrus as well as bits of mineral and spice. Lemon ice emerges on the finish along with subtle notes of green herb and continued mineral characteristics. This wine which is gloriously delicious on its own will also work well with many of the lighter foods of summer. What I love most about the Queulat Sauvignon Blanc is the precise intensity from the first whiff to the last sip. It’s got depth and grace to spare.

The Queulat 2011 Gran Reserva Pinot Noir was produced using fruit sourced in Casablanca Valley. Like the Sauvignon Blanc this is both a single vineyard effort and comprised entirely of the namesake varietal. The fruit underwent a cold maceration for 7 days prior to temperature controlled fermentation which took place over roughly 8 days. This Pinot was aged entirely in French oak with 10% in new barrels, 20% in once used and the balance in 3 or 4 times used. The Gran Reserva Pinot has a suggested retail price of $17.99. Cherry, toast, mushroom and bay aromas are all present on the gentle nose of this 2011 Pinot Noir. Red fruits dominate the palate with spice and savory herbs playing a role as well. Sour cherries, spices and wisps of earth are all present on the finish which has solid length. This is a nicely structured wine with firm acidity that will work well with a wide array of foods. Grilled pork chops topped with berry compote would be a particularly fine match.

These are both terrific wines for the money. However the Sauvignon Blanc is a particularly good value; Exhibit A if you will of how Chile often over delivers on price. Most wines of this quality from well known Sauvignon Blanc growing regions would easily command $30 a bottle. Pinot Noir is a quickly emerging varietal in Chile, I’m not sure there’s a more exciting region for this great grape. The strides that have been made in a short period of time are impressive to say the least. This is a solid example that represents a good value. It’ll drink well over the next 4 or 5 years so don’t hesitate to drink one today and lay a few others down for a bit.

Castello di Amorosa - 2009 Napa Valley Sangiovese

Castello di Amorosa is an ostentatious winery in Napa Valley founded by Dario Sattui who has owned V. Sattui for years. It’s styled like an old Italian Castle. Their focus is largely on Italian varietals. Today I’ll look at the current release of their Napa Valley Sangiovese. The Castello di Amorosa 2009 Napa Valley Sangiovese was produced from fruit sourced throughout Napa Valley. Some is from estate fruit in Calistoga and the balance comes from other parts of the valley. In addition to Sangiovese (90%) a small amount of Merlot (10%) was also blended in. After fermentation this wine spent 18 months aging in French oak barrels. Just more than 3,500 cases were produced and it sells for $30.

Rose petals, cherry blossoms and bits of spice all emerge from the nose of this 2009 Sangiovese. The palate is layered with wave after wave of red cherry characteristics. Bits of black cherry are present as well and make their presence known. Dry, warming red fruits, bay leaf, black pepper and more are all part of an elegant finish that has excellent length. This wine has medium tannins and firm acidity.

This Sangiovese has the flavor profile of a Napa Valley imbued Chianti Classico. The style and intent certainly says Italy, but the richness of the fruit belies that a bit and reveals its actual origin. At the end of the day none of that matters; this is a very nice Sangiovese that’s primed to pair with food. It’ll work with a wide array, but I suggest a hearty Italian meal for best results.

Stepping Stone by Cornerstone - 2012 Corallina Rosé

CSroseThere are certain wines that hit my desk one vintage after another. It’s generally interesting and instructive to taste a new vintage of a wine to find out about if it’s as good, better or not as good as a previous example. We all have things we love a little more than most and for me excellent dry Rosé is near the top of my list. For several years now Cornerstone Cellars has been making a beautiful Rosé under their Stepping Stone imprint. It’s become one of my favorite new world Rosé’s and a wine I can’t wait to sample each year. The Stepping Stone by Cornerstone 2012 Corallina Rosé was produced using Napa Valley fruit sourced in the Oak Knoll District. This wine is 100% Syrah. After fermentation this wine spent 5 months in previously used French oak Barrels. Just more than 400 cases were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $20. The gorgeous light pink hue of this wine stands out immediately as you pour it. The nose on this Rosé is like a bowl of fresh, red fruits; wild strawberry and cherry aromas are of particular note. Red fruit flavors star through the palate. Corallina is perfectly dry with engaging, fruity flavors. Savory spices emerge on the finish which has excellent length. In short this wine is lovely, refreshing and delicious. Pair it with light foods or drink it on its own.

The 2012 vintage of this wine is more of the same in the best way possible. It’s another tremendous example of top shelf new world Rosé. It’s totally dry and loaded with engaging fruit and spice flavors. Most importantly perhaps it seductively keeps drawing you back to the glass for additional sips. Before long the entire bottle is gone. If you love dry Rosé, as I do, you owe it to yourself to get your hands on this wine.

Geyser Peak Winery - 2012 Pinot Grigio / 2012 Sauvignon Blanc

Warm weather has thankfully arrived, and with that white wine consumption rises dramatically. BBQ’s, parties and festive gatherings of all types also call for some everyday drinking wines that taste good but don’t break the bank. Here are two examples from Geyser Peak Winery, based in Alexander Valley that fit the bill for summer sipping. The Geyser Peak Winery 2012 Pinot Grigio was produced from fruit sourced in Sonoma & Solano Counties. In addition to Pinot Grigio a small amount of Gewürztraminer was blended in as well. It was fermented entirely in stainless steel. 17,000 cases were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $11. Orange blossom and white stone fruit aromas abound on the nose of this Pinot Grigio. The palate is soft and appealing with lemon ice, white peach, mango, and papaya characteristics all in evidence. Bits of clover honey, lemon zest and white pepper are all part of the finish. This wine is fresh, fruity, juicy and overall loaded with curb appeal. I found that this wine was tastier a couple of degrees warmer than the average white, so avoid the tendency to over chill for best results.

The Geyser Peak Winery 2012 Sauvignon Blanc was produced from fruit sourced in a number of distinct appellations around California. This wine is 100% varietal. Fermentation took place entirely in stainless steel. 125,000 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $11. Zesty lime aromas are joined by wisps of grass on the nose of this Sauvignon Blanc. The palate tends towards citrus flavors with lemon, lime and hints of orange all playing a role. White melon flavors round things out a bit and lead right into the crisp and zesty finish which shows off minerals, spice and continued echoes of citrus. This is a solid entry level Sauvignon Blanc with good varietal character.

The bottom line is that these are two straightforward, tasty wines that are also well priced. You can serve either of them by themselves or with light foods. If you shop around, you’ll be able to find them for less than $10 a bottle; at that price you don’t need any excuse to pop these open all summer and quench your thirst.

A Couple of The Reasons I Love Rodney Strong Vineyards

Rodney Strong Vineyards is one of the single most important producers in Sonoma County. The breadth of their portfolio, consistency of quality and general availability of their wines across the country assure that wine lovers everywhere have releases they can count on. Some producers focus on a couple of small lot wines, others a wide array of offerings made in massive quantities and still others fall into places somewhere between that. In a sense Rodney Strong does a little bit of all of that and then some; the key though is that they do it all very well, almost impossibly so. One of the concepts that they have embraced for a number of years now is the Winery within a Winery. I recently visited with winemaker Greg Morthole and toured this facility; getting an inside peek of what goes on there. Greg has been part of the winemaking team at Rodney Strong for 8 years and he provided some valuable insights into their operation. In a sense this sub-facility makes what one would think of as a reserve tier wines. The highest end, smaller lot wines are made there. By creating a smaller facility on the Rodney Strong property a team can dedicate themselves to shepherding these wines from vine to bottle. This includes offerings like the single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons such as Brothers Ridge, Rockaway and Alexander’s Crown and their proprietary blend Symmetry, not to mention the Davis Bynum Wines which became part of the Rodney Strong family a few years back. Working in a smaller (but not small by any means) facility allows the team to focus on specific lots and highlight the best of the best for the most premium offerings in their portfolio. I spent a good chunk of time with Greg tasting through barrel samples and getting an idea of what they look for when they create the blends for these wines.

After my visit I then decided to take a look at some of the releases currently on the shelf, a way of backing up my work in the "classroom" with Greg by tasting current offerings of released wines. Wanting to have a bit of a common thread I chose three wines from the 2010 vintage; in each case Cabernet Sauvignon is the predominant varietal. Each comes from a different tier in their lineup.

First up is the Rodney Strong Vineyards 2010 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon. This offering was produced from Cabernet fruit sourced in various parts of Sonoma County. After fermentation this wine spent 18 months aging in a combination of French and American oak barrels. This widely available release has a suggested retail price of $20. Red fruit aromas such as wild strawberry and cherry are prevelant on the nose along with bits of toast and vanilla. Those characteristics carry through the palate along with red raspberry, black cherry and hints of espresso. The solid finish shows off minerals, rhubarb, black pepper and clove. This Cabernet has soft, supple tannins. The Sonoma County Cabernet is an easy drinking wine in the best sense of that term, while showing off more than sufficient true varietal character and depth for its category. Also considering its most often available for closer to $12 this is a value that’s difficult to beat in California Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Rodney Strong Vineyards 2010 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was from fruit sourced exclusively in the namesake appellation. After fermentation this wine spent close to 17 months in a combination of French and American oak barrels. This widely available wine has a suggested retail price of $28. Deep, dark fruit aromas permeate the nose of this Alexander Valley Cabernet. On the palate black fruits continue to dominate but wisps of red fruit flavors pipe through here and there as well. The palate shows off a depth and purity of fruit with blackberry and black cherry leading the way. Chocolate, dust, spices galore and espresso are all part of the finish which has terrific length, depth and precision. The Alexander Valley Cabernet has firm, chewy tannins, terrific acidity and lots of delicious fruit wrapped up in a well proportioned package. This wine most often sells for right around $18. It’s a prime example of how Rodney Strong Vineyards hits it out of the park year after year. There are Cabernets in both Napa and Sonoma selling for $50 that simply aren’t as good as this wine is one vintage after the next. Quite simply it’s an awesome value and a terrific example of Alexander Valley Cabernet.

The Rodney Strong Vineyards 2010 Symmetry Red Meritage was produced from fruit sourced in Alexander Valley. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (75%), this blend also contains Malbec (12%), Cabernet Franc (10%), Merlot (2%), and Petit Verdot 1%).The fruit was hand harvested and each lot was fermented and barreled separately. After it spent ½ a year in oak, each lot was tasted and from the best of the best, Symmetry was assembled and then returned to barrel for 15 additional months of oak aging. This offering has a suggested retail price of $60 but is often available for close to $45. Hints of crème fraiche support more vigorous aromas of plum and toast on the nose of the 2010 Symmetry. Blackberry and raspberry flavors are prominent on the palate along with an absolute avalanche of cherry flavors (both red and black). A host of sweet and savory spice notes are also present and carry through the lengthy finish along with chicory, chocolate sauce and hints of sour fruit. Symmetry has excellent, length, depth of palate and persistence of flavor from the first through the last sip. One vintage after another there is a consistency of quality and general style to this wine which makes it a wonderful sure-bet for a special occasion or relaxed Sunday Dinner with Family and Friends. The bottom line for me is that Symmetry really is a shining example of the small lot winemaking facility at Rodney Strong. All of the techniques such as hand harvesting, berry sorting, lot selection and more are utilized to make world class wines that speak of their origins within specific appellations of Sonoma County.

What continues to impress me about them as a producer is that whether it’s an under $10 Chardonnay or a $75 single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon you’re getting value and quality for your money. The intent of all of these wines is different and often so is the intended target audience but being able to count on one producer to offer so many good choices is quite frankly inspiring and a boon for consumers. For those of us who live close to great wine shops we’re often spoiled with a litany of selections from all over. Not everyone has that at their fingertips and therefore it’s a feather in their cap that you can walk into a decent wine shop just about anywhere in America and find quite a few of the Rodney Strong wines and count on the fact that they’re going to be delicious, quality wines that well represent their varietal and Sonoma County; as well as being sold at a fair price for what they represent. Some producers can do this on the low end of the spectrum and others do it in the premium or super premium category, Rodney Strong Vineyards manages to do this in all of those categories. It’s a notable feat that should be mentioned often, particularly in a world where we have so many choices; if it says Rodney Strong on it, spend your money with confidence!

Yes Virginia, Rosé (Sometimes) Does Age Well; Case In Point Chêne Bleu

Common perception holds that Rosé’s don’t age well. Sometimes common beliefs are totally wrong and in other cases they become foregone conclusions for a good reason. In the case of Rosé’s longevity the truth is not 100% either of those things. Reality is that very few Rosés are built to age well.  Some will hang around and be quite tasty for a couple of years but most go south after that. I’m the sort of person who is perfectly content drinking good, dry Rosé in the middle of winter, so I’m a fan. When the opportunity popped up to taste several vintages of Rosé from Chêne Bleu out of both standard bottle and magnum for some vintages over a meal, how could I resist? Chêne Bleu is a project that began 20 years back. The husband and wife team of Nicole & Xavier Rolet began restoration of a property in the Southern Rhone that had been lying dormant for many, many years. Their work included restitution of the vineyards which are now farmed sustainably as well as the estate house itself. It was a massive undertaking and took years from start to fruition of their first vintage. They make several other wines such as Viognier, two Red Rhone blends and a White Rhone Blend, but Rosé represents the lion’s share of their production.

The current release is the Chêne Bleu 2012 Rosé. This vintage it was produced from a blend of Grenache (60%), Syrah (35%), and Cinsault (5%). Prior to 2011, they weren’t using Cinsault in this wine yet. The Grenache and Syrah vines utilized have 40 and 30 years of age on them respectively. This wine which was produced using entirely natural methods and finished in screw-cap has a suggested retail price of $28. It’s also available in large format bottles. The Chêne Bleu Rosé has a lovely pale, pink hue, just the sort of color that comes to mind when I daydream about deliciously dry Rosé. This wine has a big nose loaded with gentle red fruit aromas; strawberry and bits of Bing cherry are both in evidence. The palate is gentle and layered with boatloads of flavor. Ref berry flavors dominate with citrus and hints of stone fruit taking part as well. There is crisp acidity and tons of spice such as white pepper and cardamom on a finish that is long and persistent. This wine is absolutely delicious all by itself; however it’s also well suited to pair with a fairly wide array of foods.

A couple things are of particular note having had the chance to taste vintages as far back as the 2007. One is the overriding fact that these wines age well for at least a 5 year period. Another is that the ones poured out of Magnum had some similarities. I found them both to show off a bit more spice and a couple of extra hints of sour fruit on the finish. Unlike the 750 ml bottles, the magnums were finished in cork. Regardless both we quite tasty, but the subtle differences are worth mentioning and looking for if you have a chance to drink them out of different formats

Across the board the Chêne Bleu wines are well made, proportionate offerings that are built to accompany food. Any of them would be welcome on my table at anytime, however I have a special place in my heart for Rosé and now I have a new one to drink regularly. If you love good dry Rosé you should make a special effort to obtain the Chêne Bleu. If for some crazy reason you don’t already love Rosé this could be the wine to turn you. They say every true wine lover eventually falls head over heels for Rose; so why wait, get some Chêne Bleu now.

Celebrate World Malbec Day with Trivento 2011 Amando Sur Malbec & Graffigna 2011 Centenario Reserve Malbec

Today is Malbec World Day so I thought tasting through some Malbecs and finding a couple to recommend was the thing to do. Malbec is planted in a number of different regions in the world but the examples coming from Argentina are the best known to most wine lovers. In many other countries it’s more often used as a blending component with Bordeaux style blends. That said varietal Malbecs in small quantities come from other areas like Chile as well. The Trivento 2011 Amando Sur Malbec was produced from a blend of Malbec (78%), Bonarda (12%) and Syrah (10%). All of the fruit was sourced in the Mendoza region of Argentina in the foothills of the Andes Mountains. This widely available wine has a suggested retail price of $15. Wild strawberry, violets, and red raspberry aromas fill the nose of this Malbec. Red plums, raspberries and cherry are all in stromng evidence along with white pepper, cardamom and a hint of vanilla through the palate. The is a well-balanced Malbec that offer plenty of up front fruit but also backs it up with an even keeled palate of substance and a nice finish that shows off sour cherry and hints of blueberry as well as black tea, pepper notes and good persistence. This Malbec works on its own but really excels with food. Grilled meats and strong cheeses are particularly reccomended.

The Graffigna 2011 Centenario Reserve Malbec was produced from estate fruit. The fruit came from two areas within San Juan Argentina. This is a 100% varietal wine. Barrel aging occurred over 12 months in a combination of French (85%) and American (15%) oak. This wine is available all over the country and has a suggested retail price of $14.99. This wine from Graffigna is a Malbec I’ve been enjoying regularly for the last several years. One vintage after another one of the hallmarks has been its balance and proportion while still providing a nice punch of full flavored fruit flavors. It follows that up with depth and balance. The 2011 vintage is no exception, dark fruit flavors such as plum and blackberry lead the nose. Black cherries and a bit of plum star on the palate along with raspberry and copious spices. The flavors are fruity but never over the top and above all refreshing in nature with crisp acidity. The finish has medium length and reverberates with spices, chicory, and wisps of sour cherry. Graffigna continues to make food friendly wines that are well priced for everyday drinking; they’re well worth your time and money. They have also worked with Riedel to develop a special Malbec Glass, I'll be taking a look at that in an upcoming post.

Happy World Malbec Day everyone! I hope you all get a chance to pick up one of these wines to celebrate this delicious day. Too many examples of Malbec in this general price range are a lot of flash and little substance, here are two well-heeled examples that will be delicious any night of the week with a myriad of foods.

Trione Vineyards and Winery - 2011 Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc / 2008 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

For more than 30 years the Trione Family has been growing and selling grapes in Sonoma County from their own property as well as vineyards they manage. In 2005 they launched Trione Vineyards & Winery to bottle their own wines. They hired Scot Covington as winemaker. He brings both winemaking experience in Sonoma County and elsewhere to the table as well as winery building and design knowledge. A couple of months ago I was really impressed with some of their then current releases. Here’s a look at a couple of more recent ones. The Trione Vineyards and Winery 2011 Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc was produced from fruit sourced at River Road Ranch. This vineyard is 115 acres in size. The vines have between 2 and 12 years of age on them. Fermentation took place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks using select South African yeast. 4 months of aging in neutral French oak followed. 600 cases of this vintage were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $23. Lemon, minerals and a touch of grass imbue the nose of this Sauvignon Blanc. The palate has good weight and is loaded with lemon-lime, spices such as white pepper and continued mineral elements. The finish here is crisp and clean with a nice bite of acid. Mineral characteristics continue here along with ginger, pepper and touch of vanilla. The end of each sip inspires another one as this wine beckons you back to the glass for more. This is a gorgeous Sauvignon Blanc built to pair with light foods.

Trione Vineyards and Winery 2008 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was produced utilizing fruit sourced at a single vineyard. The Cloverdale Ranch sits in the northern part of Alexander Valley amongst the Mayacamas Mountains. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (85%), small amounts of Merlot (9%), Cabernet Franc (2%), Petit Verdot (2%), and Malbec (2%) were blended in. Each lot was vinified and aged in barrel separately over 12 months. After blending an additional 12 months in French oak followed. Just fewer than 1,200 6 bottle cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $64. Violets, vanilla bean and dark fruit aromas fill the nose of this Cabernet Sauvignon.  Dark fruit characteristics continue through the palate where black cherry, currant and bits of blackberry are all present along with pepper and cardamom. Wisps of blueberry and plum emerge on the lengthy finish along with earth and mineral elements. Firm tannins yield with some air and are part of the wines fine structure. This Cabernet is well suited to pair with rich, bold foods. If you’re drinking it over the next couple of years I recommend decanting it for 90 minutes or so. Otherwise lay it down for 5 or more years and you’ll be richly rewarded for your patience.

Trione Vineyards and Winery is making some lovely wines. These are two more examples. If you enjoy vineyard driven wines made in relatively small lots with care and precision that speak of their origins, give them a shot.

Glen Garioch - Founder’s Reserve / 12 Year old Single Malt Scotch

The Glen Garioch Distillery was founded in 1797, making it one of the oldest in Scotland. It sits the furthest east of any in the Highlands region. Their single malt whiskies are all non chill filtered. They’re aged in a combination of American Bourbon and Spanish Sherry casks. Here's a look at two of their core offerings. The Glen Garioch Founder’s Reserve is a recently launched Whisky. They’ve used their vast experience here to create a new offering that showcases the house style. This Scotch has a suggested retail price of $45.00. Orchard fruit aromas such as apple and subtle bits of pear are joined by vanilla and a touch of burnt sugar on the nose of the Founder’s Reserve. The palate here is fresh and appealing with continued orchard fruit characteristics joined by hints of Citrus and a nice dollop of spices. The fresh elements continue on the palate with a hint of grassiness, zesty citrus and some tingly white and black pepper elements. In its price range this is a welcome offering that provides quality and distinction.

The Glen Garioch 12 Year old Single Malt Scotch is at the heart of their range. This offering was first aged in American Bourbon casks followed by time spent in Spanish Sherry casks to aid in softening it. This 12 year old Single Malt has a suggested retail price of $65. The nose of this 12 Year Old Scotch is quite fresh and inviting with thoughts of a meadow coming to mind. Bits of white lilac are present as well as wisps of Asian pear. The palate has excellent depth and complexity of flavor. Caramel, honey and toasted macadamia nut flavors are all present along with pear and a gentle kiss of apricot. The finish is long and persistent with an avalanche of spices present. This is a terrific 12 Year Old Single Malt. In its price category it’s a very solid value.

I was quite pleased with both of these offerings from Glen Garioch. The Founder’s Reserve is more in line with what I think of for everyday sipping while the 12 Year old is one I want to sit and contemplate over a long evening. In either case if you’re a Single Malt Scotch drinker, these are worth your time and money.

Ravenswood Winery - 2008 Pickberry Red

ravenswood_logoRavenswood Winery under the direction of Joel Peterson became known for Zinfandel. Whether it’s cuvee style offerings from different appellations or single vineyard wines, to this day Ravenswood has a Zinfandel for just about every budget and palate. And in addition to Zinfandel they make some other wines of note too. Most of these are small production offerings that are found in better wine shops and some restaurant wine lists. One of these is Pickberry Red; I’ll look at the current release today. The Ravenswood 2008 Pickberry Red is a single vineyard effort. All of the fruit was sourced at the namesake vineyard which is located on Sonoma Mountain. This offering is a blend of Merlot (59%), Cabernet Sauvignon (39%), Malbec (1%) and Petit Verdot (1%). This wine was aged over 22 months in entirely French oak; 22% of the barrels utilized were new. 600 cases were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $50.

Dark fruits such as black cherry and plum fill the nose of Pickberry Red. The palate is also loaded with deep, inky fruit flavors which are simultaneously intense, layered and proportionate. Black cherry characteristics lead the way along with black raspberry and blueberry playing roles as well. Minerals and spice offer a nice counterpoint. Earth, violets and black pepper are all part of the finish which has terrific persistence. This wine has chewy tannins that soften with some air and firm acidity at its backbone. While the 2008 Pickberry Red is delicious today it’s built for the long haul. If you have the patience to lay this down for 8-12 years you’ll be justly rewarded. This is a new world wine that brings to mind old world flavors and style. Pair it with a delicious meal for best results.

Masút Vineyard & Winery 2011 Estate Pinot Noir / Block 1 / Block 7 / Block 11 / Block 13

eA couple of years ago I had the opportunity to taste the inaugural release of Pinot Noir from Mendocino’s Masút Vineyard and Winery. They were founded by third generation vintners Ben and Jacob Fetzer. Pinot Noir is one of the varietals that can shine in Mendocino County when treated properly. The Fetzer brothers do just that and I was impressed with the inaugural release as well as the follow-up. Now a couple of years later, they’ve added some block specific Pinot’s to their lineup. Here’s a look at those current releases. First up is the Masút Vineyard & Winery 2011 Estate Pinot Noir. Sorting and destemming of the fruit was done by hand into stainless steel fermenters. Both native and select yeasts were utilized for fermentation which took place over 15 days. Oak aging was accomplished over 11 months in French oak; 35% of the barrels were new. This wine was bottled unfined and unfiltered. Just more than 1,000 cases were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $40. The nose of this wine brings to mind a bowl of fresh, juicy cherries. The palate here is dominated by red fruit characteristics, cherry and strawberry mostly, with bits of black fruit poking through. Minerals, spice, and bits of earth are all part of the finish which has excellent length and persistence. This is a well rounded, tremendously delicious Pinot Noir that lines up nicely with the previous two vintages. Just three vintages in the Masút Estate Pinot Noir is becoming a reference point for top shelf Mendocino County Pinot Noir.

This year they also released some block specific selections. I tasted them side by side and here are some thoughts on them:

Masút Vineyard & Winery 2011 Pinot Noir “Block 1.” Produced exclusively from fruit sourced in Block 1 of their Estate Pinot vineyard this wine was aged over 11 months in entirely new French oak. 115 cases were produced and it sells for $55. The nose is fresh with red fruits starring. Sweet, wild strawberries and red cherries carry the palate along with bits of spice. Rhubarb, black pepper and clove emerge on the finish along with a hint of minerals and continued spice.

Masút Vineyard & Winery 2011 Pinot Noir “Block 7.” Produced exclusively from fruit sourced in Block 7 of their Estate Pinot vineyard this wine was aged over 11 months in entirely new French oak. 115 cases were produced and it sells for $55. A bit of green herb emerges from the nose along with wisps of red apple. Gingerbread spices and red fruits interspersed with hints of black are present through the palate. A light earthiness and tons of mineral characteristics are in evidence on the finish. Amongst a distinct lineup of four Block selections, this one stands apart from the rest as perhaps the most impressive and unique.

Masút Vineyard & Winery 2011 Pinot Noir “Block 11.” Produced exclusively from fruit sourced in Block 11 of their Estate Pinot vineyard this wine was aged over 11 months in entirely new French oak. 115 cases were produced and it sells for $55. Hints of violet and red fruits give way to an avalanche of spices on the nose of this Pinot. Rhubarb, cherries (red and black) as well as strawberries are all in strong evidence throughout the palate of Block 11. The finish shows warming red fruits and spices galore. Gala Apple, cinnamon and a bit of cardamom are of note. This is a fresh and lovely Pinot Noir. It was the tightest of the whole bunch upon opening and more so than the rest was helped by an hour in the decanter.

Masút Vineyard & Winery 2011 Pinot Noir “Block 13.” Produced exclusively from fruit sourced in Block 13 of their Estate Pinot vineyard this wine was aged over 11 months in entirely new French oak. 115 cases were produced and it sells for $55. Mushroom, Bay Leaf and bits of earth mark the nose of the Block 13. Dark cherry and black pepper are dominant through the palate. Hints of Kirsch Liqueur emerge on the finish along with continued black pepper and other spices. Zippy acidity marks the structure of this wine.

If you’re a fan of well made, site specific Pinot Noir these offerings from Masút Vineyard should be on your short list of wines to acquire and taste. They’re each tasty, well made and interesting on their own. But if you want to have a really fascinating afternoon or evening, line them up and taste them side by side. You’ll be in for an eye opening and delicious time. As a Pinot Noir lover I’m excited about what these folks have already accomplished and look forward to what future vintages will bring.

Dry Creek Vineyard - 2010 Heritage Zinfandel

California’s Dry Creek Valley is the home office of Zinfandel. Certainly there are fine examples made elsewhere, but Dry Creek Valley has a stunning away of great ones emanating from its confines. Dry Creek Vineyard, the namesake winery of the appellation makes several consistently terrific Zins themselves. Today I’ll look at the current release of their Heritage Zinfandel. The Dry Creek Vineyard 2010 Heritage Zinfandel was produced from fruit sourced in Sonoma County. This vintage blends together Zinfandel (88%) and Petite Sirah (12%). Fermentation took place over 18 days in stainless steel followed by 14 months of barrel aging in a combination of French, American and Hungarian oak; 15% of the barrels utilized were new. Just more than 13,000 cases of this Zinfandel were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $19.

The nose of this 2010 Zinfandel is inundated with brambly dark berry aromas and a supporting undercurrent of crème fraiche. Black cherry flavors lead the palate along with bits of blueberry, blackberry and lots of spice character. Minerals, sour fruit, black pepper and dusty chocolate notes all emerge on the finish which has good length. This is a classically styled Zinfandel that has some jam components but it leads with excellent structure.

What I love most about this wine is its consistent quality. Vintages vary to be sure but year after year this is a well proportioned, even keeled Zinfandel. For those who prefer their Zins balanced and food friendly this is absolutely one of the go to choices in the under $20 price tier. It’s delicious today, particularly after 45 minutes of aeration, but this Zin will drink well for the next 5 years at minimum.

California Meritage and Franciscan's Magnificat Turn Twenty Five

Last week Franciscan Estate threw what amounted to a birthday party, for Magnificat their flagship wine, in Manhattan at Calliope Restaurant. I was glad to be in attendance at this event which showcased the Franciscan Bordeaux blend. Bordeaux blends have been made all over the world for many years, including in Napa. However, it has now been 25 years since the term Meritage was introduced and along with it Franciscan’s first vintage of Magnificat. As such it was a noteworthy milestone to mark, and an excellent reason to take a look at Magnificat alongside some of its peers. Franciscan Winemaker Jay Turnipseed was on hand to speak about his wines as well as to offer some insight in a general sense about all of the Bordeaux inspired wines. Those peers helped make the event particularly interesting. They were part of a blind tasting of six wines composed of Bordeaux varietals from around the world; Magnificat was of course amongst their number. Tasting them blind was a fine exercise in testing each of our abilities to nail regional characteristics and styles. The sense I got was that most of us gathered had about 2/3 of the regions picked out correctly. All of the blends tasted were from the 2009 vintage. The regions in play were New Zealend, Bordeaux (Left and Right Banks), Walla Walla Washington, South Africa and of course Napa Valley. I was pretty happy getting 4 out of 6 regions correct. The Magnificat stood out to me immediately probably for a few reasons, not the least of which being I’ve been drinking it consistently since the 90’s.

After the blind tasting we sat down to dinner where we were poured several Franciscan wines. This included the current vintage of Magnificat again, side by side with the 2003. The older vintage was actually darker in color that the 2009. Often at about 10 years old the color starts to morph a bit, but this wine was vibrant in color and flavors. While it certainly has a number of years of enjoyable drinking to come, The 2003 Magnificat is in a really lovely place right now. Secondary characteristics have started to kick in and the fruit flavors are ever so slightly tamed. Earth and espresso bean were prominent on the finish.

The current release is the Franciscan Estate 2009 Magnificat. This vintage is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignn (64%), Merlot (26%), Petit Verdot (5%), Cabernet Franc (3%), and Malbec (2%).It was fermented and macerated over a 22 day period. Barrel aging followed over 20 months in French oak; 70% of the barrels were new. Just over 6,000 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $50. Booming, black fruit aromas emerge from the nose of this wine. The flavors are ripe and eager. Blackberry, raspberry and cherry flavors are all in evidence. There’s dark chocolate and chicory on the lengthy finish along with black pepper and a hint of nutmeg and vanilla bean. The 2009 Magnificat does an excellent job of threading the needle. It’s powerful and elegant at the same time. The flavors are big but never over the top and the tannins firm but not overpowering. In short this is an excellent vintage of Magnificat a wine that is one of the standard bearers of Meritage. It’s delicious today but there’s no need to rush, it will certainly drink well for the next 15 years if stored properly.

Tasting the current vintage of Magnificat alongside counterpart wines from around the world, another vintage of Magnificat and several other Franciscan wines throughout the night really helped showcase its beauty. Happy Birthday Magnificat!

Dinner with Cuvaison Winemaker Steve Rogstad

Cuvaison Winery has a history in Napa Valley that dates back to 1969. However they were reset in 1979 when the Schmidheiny family from Switzerland purchased the property. A decade ago they built a new facility in Carneros under the stewardship of winery president Jay Schuppert and winemaker Steve Rogstad, who both joined on in 2002 and are still onboard. Previous to that the wines were made in Calistoga where they still own a facility and a satellite tasting room. Last week I had the opportunity to have dinner with Steve Rogstad at Tocqueville. We tasted through the core releases as well as a couple of wines made from the Brandlin Estate on Mount Veeder. My thoughts on my favorite wines from the evening follow. The Cuvaison 2011 Estate Chardonnay Carneros is their flagship offering. It makes up roughly 75% of their total production which varies between 40 and 50,000 cases from one vintage to the next. The fruit for this wine came from 44 distinct blocks within their Estate. Each lot was picked and vinified separately. This Chardonnay was barrel fermented and aged in French oak for 8 months; 20% of the barrels utilized were new. This widely available wine has a suggested retail price of $25. This is a gorgeous Chardonnay with clean and crisp flavors. Apple aromas lead the nose and carry on to the palate. Tropical fruit flavors join in as well with pineapple and guava of particular note. Spice, minerals and a little kiss of crème fraiche emerge on the finish which has nice length. It is classic example of well made Carneros Chardonnay that allows the fruit to shine brilliantly through. This wine is a very solid value at its price point.

The Cuvaison 2011 Kite Tail Chardonnay is produced each year from a single block. This block is planted to the Wente clone. The fruit was hand harvested and whole cluster pressed. It was fermented and aged in barrel over 15 months in French oak; 50% of the barrels utilized were new. This wine has a suggested price of $42. Hints of smoke and toast light up the nose of this Chardonnay along with bits of orchard fruit. The flavors here are more concentrated and have a greater intensity. Apple and pear are in strong evidence along with a bit of mango. Bits of toasted almond, and copious spices such as nutmeg and white pepper emerge on the finish which has substantial length. Tasting these two Chardonnays side by side is a tiny little window into how diverse this grape is. In this case multiple factors play in to the distinction. Both wines are delicious and interesting in their own right.

The Cuvaison 2011 Estate Pinot Noir Carneros was produced with fruit sourced from 20 distinct blocks within the Winery Estate. Each block was vinified separately. Barrel aging took place over 11 months in small oak barrels; 30% of them were new. This wine has a suggested retail price of $38. Fresh red fruit aromas fill the nose of this Pinot Noir. Bing cherry and strawberry characteristics are at play on the palate along with a bit of cinnamon and black pepper spice. Raspberry emerges on the finish along with wisps of rhubarb and earth. As a counterpoint to the Estate Chardonnay this is an equally engaging and well made example of Carneros Pinot.

The Brandlin Estate Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon is largely varietal (94%), with small amounts of Petit Verdot (4%), Malbec (1%) and Cabernet Franc (1%) blended in. This wine was aged over 22 months in French oak; 50% of the barrels utilized were new. This wine has a suggested retail price of $55. Cuvaison purchased this property, which has been farmed by the Brandlin family since the 1870’s in the late 90’s. This is a historic Napa vineyard whose history they honor by name and in practice. Less than 40 of the 170 acres have been planted to vine. There’s a ton of excellent Cabernet Sauvignon in NapaValley. Personally I think some of the most compelling examples are made from mountain fruit. This selection from Brandlin is no exception. Black fruit aromas dominate the nose along with hints of toast. This is a young Cabernet and it’s a bit tight out of the bottle right now. It opens up nicely with some air and shows off blackberry and raspberry fruit flavors as well as hints of cocoa. Earth and black pepper emerge on the finish which has good length. This wine has firm, gripping tannins and solid structure. It’s tasty now but will be even better a few years from now. This is a nice example of Mt. Veeder Cabernet.

The connective tissue with the wines Steve Rogstad is making for Cuvaison and their Mount Veeder Property Brandlin is proportion. These are lovely, vineyard-driven wines that pair well with a wide array of foods and quite frankly life in general. Each wine is distinct yet it’s clear the guiding hand and winery principles employed at Cuvaison have led to the creation and maintaining of an impressive portfolio that leads with their property in Carneros and the beautiful grapes that are grown there. Add to that the rugged Cabernet and other Bordeaux varietals of Mt. Veeder and the picture of a producer that lets their properties speak through the bottle emerges. It’s always a pleasure to taste wines alongside the person who shepherded them into existence. When the winemaker is one like Steve Rogstad with his wealth of experience in the business in general and at his length of tenure at his current Winery, its all the more interesting and informative.

Visiting Domaine Chandon in Napa Valley

On my recent trip to Napa Valley I made a point of visiting quite a few producers whose wine I was somewhat familiar with but who I had never stopped in to see. One of those was Domaine Chandon. Sparkling Wine has an air of fun and celebration automatically surrounding it that adds to the enjoyment. A friend and I arrived at Domaine Chandon and proceeded to take the tour which went through much of their production facility. For those who have toured wineries but not sparkling wine houses it’s definitely something you should do. Domaine Chandon does a nice job of taking consumers through the process by walking through and having visuals along the way to point to. The tour guide was informative and hit the right level for a consumer tour. He was loaded with knowledge about Domaine Chandon specifically and the sparkling wine making process in general. Based on the interest of our group of about 8 people and the questions asked he tailored the information along the way. The facility is an attractive one and while it’s right off of Highway 29 in Yountville it’s hidden from the road.

After touring we sat down in a semi-private area with a handful of tables and tasted through the current portfolio. Here are my thoughts on several of the wines I found the most desirable.

The Domaine Chandon Brut Classic is the entry level wine in the portfolio. This offering blends together Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. It was produced in the traditional method and secondary fermentation took place in bottle. This widely available release has a suggested retail price of $22. Lemon zest and toasted hazelnut aromas fill the nose of this wine. Crisp apple flavors and copious spice notes inform the pleasing palate. Bits of creaminess an yeast emerge on the finish which has good length.

The Domaine Chandon Rosé achieves it’s lovely color with the addition of a small amount of still Pinot Noir at tirage. That said the bulk of this offering is composed of Chardonnay. It sits on the yeast for a minimum of 12 months. This widely available wine has a suggested retail price of $22. The beautiful dark salmon hue of this wine is immediately striking. Cherry and strawberry aromas fill the nose along with a bit of vanilla bean. Cherries continue on the palate along with wisps of cinnamon and white pepper. Sour red fruits and bits of brioche mark the finish which is clean, crisp and begs you to take another sip.

The Domaine Chandon Etoile Brut is a blend of Chardonnay (55%), Pinot Noir (25%), and Pinot Meunier (20%) from both Napa and Sonoma. This wine is the Chandon selection that aims to make the best Sparkling Wine possible without feeling compelled to traditional methodology or other restrictions. It ages sur lees for a minimum of 5 years. This wine has a suggested retail price of $40. The depth of palate, complexity and noteworthy persistence of the finish are what strike me most about this wine. There are orchard fruit, spice and toasted note characteristics galore here. This is an incredibly enjoyable Sparkling wine that is at times classic in how dry it is as well as unique is some others.

Domaine Chandon is located on a beautiful property in the heart of NapaValley. Their tour and tasting option is educational, well paced and consumer friendly. They make some very tasty sparkling wines and a handful of well considered still offerings to boot. This is a stop to keep in mind for your next trip to Napa.

Visiting Williams Selyem Winery in Sonoma County

Visiting Williams Selyem Winery in Sonoma County

Williams Selyem Winery has been making wine in Sonoma County since 1981. It was that year that they produced their first vintage of Pinot Noir. Since then their portfolio has been expanded a bit and there are a handful of other varietals in the mix; however they are first and foremost a Pinot Noir House. A couple of weeks ago I had the opportunity to visit them and taste through some current and older releases, as well as tour the facility. Williams Selyem graciously welcomes visitors by advance appointment. Check their website for specific details. Pulling up to the winery, the facility is impressive in a number of ways. On the one hand it’s a beautiful structure that would look good anywhere. Secondly and somewhat more importantly it fits perfectly into its surroundings. When they built this new winery property a few years back they surely kept the idea of being shepherds of the land in mind. From every angle I walked the facility, inside and out, it literally seemed as if it had been gently dropped into the vineyard land so as not to disturb anything. And in fact numerous trees of significant age are about as close to the building as one could possibly imagine. It’s also an eye-catching edifice inside and out without ever being ostentatious in any way.

William-Selyem is best known for Pinot Noir and their portfolio is dotted with single vineyard designate wines and cuvee offerings. In addition to Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Zinfandel and a port produced from traditional Portuguese varietals are part of the mix. One of the interesting production methods that sets them apart is the use of Dairy Bins for fermentation. These large, rectangular bins offer a larger surface area than traditional fermentation vessels. They’re so ingrained in the production process that William-Selyem has a company routinely looking out for additional bins for them to acquire. Once they are purchased, the bins are retrofitted to comply with their needs. While a small amount of wines go out in distribution, 96% of their production is sold direct to consumers. They have had a robust mailing list of admirer’s for years that’s the envy of many others in the industry. Allocations are largely based on time on the list and buying history.

Quite a number of well made and delicious wines passed my lips while I visited; here are my impressions of a handful of selections that particularly stood out that day.

Williams Selyem 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay. The fruit for this entirely stainless steel fermented wine was sourced at three vineyards; Drake Estate Vineyard, Olivet Lane Vineyard, and Lazy W Ranch located on Westside   Road. This was a preview of a wine being released this spring. It’s going to have a price of $37. Orchard fruit aromas fill the fresh and vibrant nose of this wine. Tart green apple flavors are prominent on the palate along with bits of lime and pear. Minerals and an undercurrent of spice emerge on the finish which is clean and crisp. If I were to sum up this wine in one word it would be lovely. Those who aren’t fond of overdone, over-oaked Chardonnay should do whatever they can to acquire their own stash of this wine. It’s beautiful, refreshing and simply a pleasure to drink.

Williams Selyem 2010 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. The fruit for this cuvee style offering was sourcec at a combination of five vineyards; Bucher Vineyard,  Drake Estate Vineyard, the Foss Vineyard, the Lone Oak Vineyard, and Williams Selyem Estate Vineyard. Oak aging took place over 11 months in a combination of new (25%), once used (50%), and twice used (25%) barrels. This wine which was released last spring sells for $37. Both red and black fruit aromas fill the nose of this Pinot Noir. This theme continues through the palate where black cherry characteristics take a starring role. Raspberry, earth, black tea and a gentle wisp of anise all emerge on the finish which has excellent length. Fine acidity provides a firm backbone. This is a really terrific Pinot Noir in the under $40 category.

Williams Selyem 2005 Vista Verde Pinot Noir. This wine was made entirely from fruit sourced at the Vista Verde Vineyard. The location of this vineyard is just south of Holister, near where Calera, another highly regarded California Pinot Noir house is located. Barrel aging took place over 15 months in a combination of new (65%) and once used (35%) oak. At release this wine sold for $49. From the first whiff to the last sip this wine showed itself to be in its sweet spot. At just over seven years old it’s showing subtle cherry aromas on the nose. The palate leads with gingerbread spice notes that are accompanied by red fruits. Earth, sour cherry and a bit of tea are present in the finish which has terrific length. This is a stunning wine at its peak.

Williams Selyem 1998 Central Coast Pinot Noir. This wine was produced from Estate Vineyards located south of Hollister. Their Central Coast release typically spends 10 months in a combination of new (33%), once used (33%) and twice used (33%) oak. The current release sells for $39. At first blush this wine was a bit closed off and honestly I thought it might be gone. However a few minutes in the glass did wonders. Ultimately I was knocked out by how very much alive this 15 year old Pinot Noir is. Good lively fruit marked the nose and palate, with zippy acidity and a core of spices playing along as well. Impressive for its age and well worth drinking if you can get your hands on a bottle. This underscores the importance of balance and its role in the age-ability of wines.

If you’re a Pinot Noir lover traveling to Sonoma County Williams Selyem should be on your short list of producers to visit. This is a relatively small outfit, doing things in a unique manner with consistently noteworthy results. And if for some strange reason Pinot Noir isn’t your thing, the Zinfandel, Chardonnay and Port are quite tasty as well.

Visiting Frog's Leap Winery in Napa Valley

Frog’s Leap has been around since 1981 and their focus has remained resolute to this day. They grow their grapes organically utilizing dry farmed vineyards. Their wine making techniques are classic and old school in intent and execution. Neither their vineyards nor their wines are over manipulated. They are also stewards of the land they inhabit and strive to be community members that make a difference. Towards that end they have been a solar powered facility since 2005. The folks at Frog's Leap take their work, their wine and their place in the neighborhood quite seriously, but they do so while having fun, giving a wink and a smile so to speak. A couple of days ago I made a visit to Frog’s Leap in Napa Valley. Though I’ve enjoyed a number of their wines over the years it was my first time visiting. Along with a couple of friends I made my way into their reception area and we were quickly seated even though we arrived quite a bit earlier than our scheduled appointment. They have an open porch with tables to host tastings, from that vantage point we could look at some of their vines as well as one group of visitors playing a game on the lawn while they enjoyed a taste of wine.

It was a beautiful day and Frog’s Leap is an excellent atmosphere in which to taste wine. After being seated we had someone dedicated to pouring us wine and telling us anything we might want to know about the facility and the wines. Their standard flight features 4 selections and the tastings are priced at $20. In addition to the four we were lucky enough to sample a few other releases.  On weekdays they also offer tours by prior appointment. What follows are my thoughts on a few of my favorite selections I tasted on my visit.

Frog’s Leap 2011 Rutherford Sauvignon Blanc: This 100% varietal wine is what got things off the ground for Frog’s Leap more than 30 years ago. All of the fruit for this offering comes from Rutherford. It was fermented and aged in stainless steel. This wine has a suggested retail price of $20. Citrus and mineral aromas pop out of this wine’s nose. The palate is gently layered with tropical and citrus fruit characteristics. Zippy acidity, spices and minerals galore are at play here as well and they continue through the finish which is clean, crisp and refreshing. My overriding desire after taking a sip was simply to take another. This is a lovely Sauvignon Blanc whose flavors are not forceful or over the top but rather persistent in their complexity and depth.

Frog’s Leap 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon: In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon, small amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Franc are blended into this wine. It was aged for 21 months in French oak and it has a suggested retail price of $42. The small dollop of Cabernet Franc in this blend really helps the nose pop. As a result cherry and leather aromas are in striking abundance. The palate here is smooth and approachable with deep berry flavors; Blackberry and plum are of particular note along with continued cherry. Earth and a bit of mocha emerge on the finish which has impressive length for the price. This wine will drink well for a number of years but it’s incredibly engaging and exuberant right now, there’s simply no reason to wait on this one.

Frog’s Leap 2010 Zinfandel: This wine is made in classic Field Blend style. This wine is composed of Zinfandel (77.5%), Petite Sirah (22%) and Carignane (0.5%). All 3 varietals were picked, fermented and aged together. Barrel aging took place over 12 months in French oak. This wine has a suggested retail price of $27. This Zinfandel really emerged after it was sitting in the glass for 15 or 20 minutes. Cherry aromas came out in droves along with a dollop of vanilla bean. Both red and black berry flavors dominate the palate along with a nice complement of spices such as clove, cinnamon and pepper. The finish is lengthy with sour cherry, bits of chocolate sauce and a final bit of biting spice. This is a proportionate Zinfandel made in a classic style. It’s spicy, fun, delicious and easy drinking without being over the top or simplistic. It’s a wine that will pair as beautifully with a pizza as it will a burger or soft polenta topped with sautéed mushrooms. Whatever you pair it with, you’re likely to love this terrifically well made Zinfandel.

Frog’s Leap 2010 Petite Sirah: This selection is 100% varietal and all of the fruit came from Rutherford. Aging took place over 11 months in French oak. The Frog’s Leap Petite Sirah has a suggested retail price of $37. In the glass this wine is as black as night. The aromas that emerge are dark and brooding to match. The first sip reveals Blackberries, blueberries and plum pudding spices. The finish has good length with hints of earth and a bit of chicory. This Petite Sirah is young and a bit tight right now with firm tannins. Time in the bottle will soften this wine and really help show off its charms. I’m fond of aging well made, balanced Petite Sirah that has good structure and acid. The Frog’s Leap Petite hits all those marks and I can’t wait to see where this wine is in about a decade. Of course you could decant it for a few hours and speed up the process. In any case this is a promising example of one of my favorite varietals.

It took me way too long to make it to Frog’s Leap for the first time, suffice it to say my second visit won’t take nearly as long. This is a great winery to visit in the heart of Napa Valley. The wines are terrific and well made. Each of them was balanced and proportionate with reasonable alcohol content, bucking current trends. The Zinfandel in particular stood out for being under 14%, something worth noting in an environment where some folks are making Zins that tip the scales over 16%. The wines are also clean and fresh with pure fruit flavors bursting through. Additionally the atmosphere is welcoming and charming with lovely understated décor that is soothing to the eye. The folks working at Frog’s Leap are incredibly friendly, accommodating and quite knowledgeable about the wines and Frog’s Leap in general. Next time you’re in Napa Valley, I strongly urge you to make a beeline to Frog’s Leap.

Cornerstone Cellars - 2009 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

Cornerstone Cellars has been making terrific wine in Napa Valley since 1991. Over the last few years they have expanded their portfolio to include some wines from Oregon as well as releases under the Stepping Stone sub-label. It’s been a pleasure to keep drinking their wines vintage after vintage as they have offered releases of consistent quality and approach. New additions to their portfolio are always a welcome surprise as they try new things. However at the core of their portfolio is Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Today I’ll look at the latest release of their Howell Mountain Cabernet. The Cornerstone Cellars 2009 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon is predominately varietal (95%), with a small dollop of Merlot (5%) blended in. The majority of the fruit was sourced at their Ink grade Vineyard on Howell Mountain; a small amount of Cabernet from Oak Knoll was also used. The Merlot was sourced in Carneros. This wine was aged over 22 months in entirely French Oak. This small production release has a suggested retail price of $80.

Toast, bramble, black raspberry and vanilla bean aromas fill the nose of this Cabernet Sauvignon. The palate is loaded with black fruit flavors. Blackberry, plum and continued raspberry elements play starring roles here. Black cherry and a hefty spice component are in play as well. Dark, dusty baker’s chocolate, espresso, earth and black pepper all emerge on the finish which has terrific persistence and length. This Cabernet has firm tannins that yield with some air. There is a depth and purity of fruit here that comes across in awesome Mountain Cabs. Year after year the Howell Mountain Release from Cornerstone is amongst my favorite Napa Valley Cabernets, the 2009 is no exception. This is a big, beautiful wine that is both brawny and precise. It’s most impressive characteristics are its depth, length and how loaded it is with concentrated fruit flavors from start to finish. This wine is delicious today; particularly if you let it breathe so it can express all its charms, but will benefit from some aging. Don’t hesitate to lay this wine down for a dozen years. Either way this is top shelf Napa Valley Cabernet.

Auchentoshan - 12 Year Old Single Malt Scotch / Auchentoshan Three Wood Single Malt Scotch

Auchentoshan has a history that dates back to 1828; they are in fact the oldest distillery in Glasgow. This is a producer that triple distills each of their Scotches from three pot stills. Their range of offerings features five Single Malts that are widely available as well as numerous limited edition Malts and a handful aimed specifically at travel retail. Today I’m going to take a look at two Single Malts from their range. The Auchentoshan 12 Year Old Single Malt Scotch was triple distilled after which it was aged for over twelve years. This Scotch has 40% Alcohol by volume and the suggested retail price is $50. The color of this Scotch brings to mind vibrant clover honey. Apricots and spice lead an appealing and incredibly fresh and vibrant nose. Peach, toasted hazelnut and light citrus characteristics star on the substantially weighty palate that also shows off loads of spice. Mesquite honey, black pepper and bits of clove emerge on the finish which is lengthy and impressive in its persistence. This is a notable and exciting 12 Year Old Single Malt. There are many distilleries with entries in the 12 year old category; the Auchentoshan stands out for both complexity and elegance.

The Auchentoshan Three Wood Single Malt Scotch was aged as the name would indicate in 3 different cask types. It started in American Bourbon casks followed by Spanish Oloroso Sherry and then ultimately finishing in Pedro Ximenez Sherry casks. This Scotch has 43% Alcohol by volume and a suggested retail price of $63. This Single Malt has a deep, coppery hue. Caramel, toffee and plum pudding spice aromas fill the dense nose. The palate is deep and layered with fruitcake spices, apricot, lychee, toast and a gentle hint of anise. Apple crisp, almond a touch of mocha and hints of biscotti are part of the long and warming finish. The Auchentoshan Three Wood is a very impressive release for the price point. This is a Single Malt to sit and contemplate over a long night with good company. The various casks this was aged in all add to the depth, complexity and richness of flavors here. This is a real knockout in its price range.

This was my first time sampling any of the Auchentoshan releases and I was quite impressed. The quality of their offerings and connective thread between releases in the range is quite apparent even tasting only two selections. There is an overall smoothness and delicate complexity to the palate that belies the reasonable price point of these Single Malts. That said both the 12 Year and the Three Wood are distinct in their own right. I heartily recommend either of these to anyone looking for a terrific value in Single Malt Scotch.