For 124 years the Foppiano Family has been growing grapes in Sonoma County’s Russian River Valley. They stand as one of the longest continually operated wineries in Sonoma County, surviving prohibition. They’ve been family owned and operated that entire time. Today, 5th Generation Vineyard Manager and President Paul Foppiano runs the show. His stewardship of their brand and 160 acre property has seen a number of changes. Among them is the reintroduction of white wines to the portfolio, de-emphasizing the use of oak, introduction of an everyday red blend and the continued focus on Petite Sirah as their flagship.
At a recent dinner in Manhattan with Paul, we tasted through the current lineup and some older vintages of Petite Sirah. I was surprised to learn that the entire Foppiano Vineyards production stands at 6,000 cases annually. The quality and value of the reds was no surprise having tasted them over the years. However having no experience with their white program, those were a welcome surprise. In addition their new red blend was an eye-opener. Here are some thoughts on the evening’s lineup.
Foppiano Vineyards 2018 Estate Sauvignon Blanc ($20)
Other than 10% aged for 3 months in older French oak, fermentation and aging was entirely in stainless steel. Meyer Lemon zest and wisps of stone fruit drive the aromatics. The even keeled palate features a who’s who of citrus and tropical fruits. Racy acid provides nice bite. This is a distinct and delicious example of Sauvignon Blanc.
Foppiano Vineyards 2017 Estate Chardonnay ($25)
Fermentation and aging took place in used (72%) and new (28%) French oak barrels. The vines utilized are Wente and Robert Young Clones. Anjou pear aromas and subtle baler’s spices are the dominant aromatics. The palate is filled with continued pear and accompanying wisps of golden delicious apple. Mineral notes propel the above average finish. The fruit shines through here with the oak playing it’s natural, far smaller, complimentary role.
Foppiano Vineyards 2017 Estate Pinot Noir ($35)
Dijon and Pommard clones are utilized here. Aging took place in New (55%) and used (45%) French oak. Leather and Bing cherry are evident the moment you stick your nose in the glass. Red and black raspberry and cherry are the dominant flavors, accompanied by black peppercorn. Graphite, cranberry and pomegranate are evident on the solid finish. Honest Pinot Noir is hard to come by in this price range, this one is worth drinking.
Foppiano Vineyards 2016 Estate Zinfandel ($28)
In addition to Zinfandel, a bit (5%) of Petite Sirah is blended into this wine. There’s so much terrific Zinfandel in Sonoma County, with Dry Creek Valley leading the charge. But don’t sleep on Russian River Valley Zinfandel. They have a signature all their own, and if you love Zinfandel you should explore them. This example from Foppiano is a perfect place to start. As is typical of Great Russian River Zin, it’s extremely floral from the first to the last. Dark plum, blackberry and oodles of spice drive the palate. The flavors here lean dark and dry. Firm tannins and zingy acidity provide a terrific backbone. This Zinfandel is delicious today but will drink well for at least a decade. It’ll do particularly well paired with red meat.
Foppiano Vineyards 2016 Estate Petite Sirah ($25)
At over 4,000 cases Petite Sirah represents the lion’s share of Foppiano’s production. Black cherry, blackberry and spice are evident from the first whiff to the last sip. Black raspberry, cocoa and a complement of spices are also present alongside bits of mission fig and subtle savory herbs. Racy acid and approachable tannins provide excellent structure. The finish is long and cautiously lusty. This is the epitome of Russian River Valley Petite Sirah. We also tasted the 2014 and 2015 vintages. There were more similarities than differences. What separated them was simply vintage variation. The Foppiano Petite Sirahs will age gracefully for 15 plus years.
Foppiano Vineyards 2017 Lot 96 California Red Bland ($13)
In addition to their Estate, fruit was sourced from other California vineyards for this offering which is composed of Petite Sirah (76%), Barbera (18%), Zinfandel (4%), and Mourvedre (2%). Are you looking for a House Wine? Something affordable you can purchase a case or two of and never think twice about opening? Lot 96 from Foppiano should be a strong contender. It’s fresh and fruity, but mot sweet. It has structure and acid. It goes down easy but it has enough going on it’ll give you something to think about. It’ll pair well with Taco Tuesday, Pizza Night ort Meatless Monday or yesterday’s leftovers. This is a really tasty blend and an excellent value.