A few months before the pandemic hit, I spent a week in Portugal visiting wineries and getting a feel for the area. Specifically, I was in the Alentejo region which is a bit more than an hour from Lisbon. The week I was there we were anchored in Evora, a charming town full of local flavor, both literally (amazing food) and figuratively (sightseeing and local history).
When I was preparing for my trip, I knew that there would be good wine to taste as I’d had some bottles from the region prior. But I severely underestimated a few things. First, there’s far more wine worth your time and budget than I anticipated. Secondly, the range of grapes and styles utilized in growing and shepherding those wines to market is exponentially broader than I conceived. Third, prior to visiting I hadn’t given much thought to the white wines we might taste. I certainly knew there would be plenty of good Alicante Bouschet. What I learned, with literally my first in country sip, is the whites are every bit as stunning in substance, range of diversity, value and plain old deliciousness as the reds are. You may head to Alentejo for the Reds, but there’s an equally good chance you’ll stay for the Whites.
Meticulous farming practices; often Sustainable, Organic, and / or Biodynamic are utilized by many of the farmers growing grapes in the region. There’s a real pride in doing things well and right that comes across with nearly every person you encounter in Alentejo. By and large I found producers not to be outwardly boastful, but the gratification received is clear when others express pleasure in the great work they’re doing.
When it comes to wine from Alentejo, there’s simply so much to explore. At nearly every single price tier the value on offer far exceeds normal expectations. While there are certainly international grapes to be found if you go looking, the indigenous varieties are the story of Alentejo. If you want to taste what this region is about from the inside here are some key grapes to look for. When it comes to red Alicante Bouschet, Aragonez and Touriga Nacional are among the most important and widely planted. When it comes to whites, Antão Vaz, and Arinto are a couple of the most prolific varieties. It’s also important to keep in mind that Alentejo, like some other great European Regions often focuses their efforts on blends. These are by and large situations where the whole becomes greater than the sum of the parts. The best way to experience Alentejo right now is to drink some of their wines.
Here are 10 bottles I recommend seeking out to jump start your exploration into the wines of Alentejo. In some cases a newer or older vintage might be available. Don’t hesitate, these are bottles with a consistent level of quality.
Cartuxa 2018 EA White ($10)
This three-grape blend (Arinto de Bucelas, Roupeiro, and Antão Vaz) is finished in stainless steel. The nose is ostentatious with floral notes in evidence. Meyer lemon and honey dew melon drive the palate. The finish is crisp and pleasing. At under $10 this is a steal of a deal.
Cartuxa Evora 2015 Tinto Colheita ($20)
Black fruits drive the aromatics of this well priced red blend from Evora. A serious spice component is at play alongside both red and black fruit flavors. There’s an impressive depth of palate here and long finish that stops just short of being lusty. Delicious at any price, it’s a remarkable value at around $20.
Herdade do Rocim 2018 Amphora White ($20)
Primarily Antão Vaz, several other white varieties are also part of the blend here. Fermentation took place in large format Amphora. It spent two months there followed by time in stainless steel tank. On the nose there’s a bit of a brewed tea characteristic, which I find typical to Orange Wines. There’s a roundness of palate and mouthfeel here that impresses. Golden fruit and savory herbs come together to form an appealing taste profile. The length is persistent. I simply didn’t want to stop drinking this wine. Other than the heaviest of foods, it’ll pair with nearly anything you throw at it.
Herdade do Rocim 2017 Rosé ($21)
This Rosé is composed entirely of Touriga Nacional. Citrus aromas are joined by hints of peach melba. Fresh red fruits are abundant and an undercurrent of savory herbs offers a counterpoint. The finish is lingering, and mineral laden, with dollops of spice. Tremendous acid and sufficient tannins will allow this Rosé to drink well longer than the average.
Rocim 2016 Rocim Alicante Bouschet ($20)
A deep dark hue is striking when this 100% Touriga Nacional is poured. Blackberry and violet aromas abound. Dark fruit flavors are abundant along with dollops of spice and a hint of bacon fat. Bits of bitter dark chocolate and a dusting of chicory are evident on the finish. This is a mouth filling red that will set off all of your pleasure sensors.
Esporão 2018 Colheita Branco ($14)
This Amphora aged (4 months) wine is a blend of Antão Vaz, Viosinho, Alvarinho and other white varieties. Aromas of lemon and brewed tea dot the nose. Citrus and fleshy yellow fruit flavors are readily apparent. Mesquite honey and hints of crème fraiche are evident on long finish. This particular wine features the most readily accessible fresh fruit characterisitcs of any of the Amphora wines I sampled in the region.
Esporão Vinha das Palmeiras 2013 Alicante Bouschet ($50)
Entirely Alicante Bouschet, this offering was fermented in stainless steel spent 12 months in French oak vats, followed by 2 years of bottle age prior to release. Plum and black olive aromas are in play here. Flavors of fleshy black and red fruit such as cherry, raspberry and mission fig are all present. The finish is spicy, long, persistent and structured. Delicious now this wine will improve over the next 6-8 years and drink well for the next decade plus.
Herdade de São Miguel 2014 Alicante Bouschet ($21)
This wine was produced from 100% Alicante Bouschet and aged in French oak for a year. Violets, plum, and bits of leather dot the nose. Red cherry and raspberry dominate here. Bits of red plum are evident too along with an underlying vein of spices. Tannins are firm but approachable. A lovely, well structured Alicante that aims to please today and over the next 3-5 years.
Mouchão 2018 Dom Rafael Branco White ($15)
This crisp and refreshing white is a blend of Antão Vaz and Arinto, Lemon ice and wisps of savory herb dot the aromatics. Fresh yellow melon and continued citrus fill the palate which has a nice weight to it. A hint of white pepper and mineral notes are evident on the solid finish.
Mouchão 2013 Mouchão ($60)
This offering is a blend of Alicante Bouschet (90%), and Trincadeira. Every wine region in the world has bottles that others measure themselves against. In Alentejo Mouchão is a benchmark wine. It’s easy to see why. It has incredible aromatics, fresh fruit, depth and persistence of palate, as well as length of finish. On top of all that it has several decades of life ahead of it. In a sense, everything you want. Red fruit, minerals, earth, and a dusting of cocoa on the finish are all present. A rich vein of acid and supple tannins provide the framework on which it’s all built. At around $60 this is a stunning value. A wine of this quality, from a more famous region, would easily fetch north of $100. This is worthy of any special occasion you might want a noteworthy bottle for. Grab some for yourself before the region and the wine become more famous.
One day, hopefully not too far down the road, the pandemic will be over. When that joyous day arrives and you’re looking for a wine region to explore in person, I urge you to put Alentejo on your (VERY) short list. It’s a beautiful place with stunning vistas and lots of history. The people are charming and incredibly welcoming to visitors, perhaps more so than any place I’ve ever visited. The food is often unique, certainly quite varied, and full of local flavors. In the meantime, though, hit your local shop or favored online retailer and fill your cart with the bounty of Alentejo. I promise that your exploration ahead will be delicious, diverse, and easy on your wallet.