Gabe's View


Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

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Single Vineyard

Lost Canyon 2012 Russian River Valley Chardonnay / 2012 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Lost Canyon 2012 Russian River Valley Chardonnay / 2012 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Lost Canyon Winery is a project of Dry Creek Valley’s Fritz Underground Winery. They have long had Russian River Valley offerings in their portfolio in addition to wines from their Dry Creek Valley home. The Lost Canyon Project is specifically aimed at highlighting single vineyards. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are two grapes that can often be interesting as vineyard designates. Here’s a look at two current releases. Lost Canyon 2012 Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($35)

All of the fruit for this offering was sourced at the Ruxton Vineyard; the vines have 35 years of age on them. It’s entirely Chardonnay and after native yeast fermentation it was aged for 10 months in French oak (90% new). Just fewer than 700 cases were produced. Stone fruit aromas such as yellow peach and apricot dominate the nose here; bits of spice join in as well. The juicy palate is studded with orchard fruits such as Anjou Pear and Golden Delicious Apple. Minerals and lemon ice characteristics light up the long, crisp finish. This is a delicious and refreshing example of Chardonnay.

Lost Canyon 2012 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($45)

This single vineyard effort was produced from fruit grown at the Morelli Lane Vineyard. Fermentation took place in open top tanks using native yeast. Punch downs occurred 2-3 times a day over 10 days. Barrel aging was accomplished over 10 months in 40% new oak. 300 cases were produced. Spice characteristics lead the nose here along with cherry, raspberry and strawberry aromas. Black cherry and bits of raspberry are present on the palate along with continued spice and a dollop of earthiness. Pomegranate and cranberry emerge on the finish along with cinnamon and clove. Firm mouthwatering acid keeps everything in check here.

Both of these wines are loaded with good varietal typicity as well as being somewhat classic examples of Russian River Chardonnay and Pinot respectively. The Lost Canyon offerings are reasonably priced for relatively small production wines from single vineyards. They are well worth your time and money.

Achaval–Ferrer is Producing Reference Quality Argentine Malbec and More

A couple of weeks back I sat down with Santiago Ferrer, the founder and winemaker for Achaval–Ferrer. We tasted through his current single-vineyard malbecs as well as older vintages of Finca Altamira, his signature malbec. Separate from that, I also recently sampled a couple of his more widely available wines. Santiago is doing some terrific things with malbec specifically and also other varieties as well. Here’s a look at some of my favorites from the Achaval–Ferrer portfolio. Head over to The Daily Meal to read the rest.

The Lodi Native Project Makes a Strong Impression

Lodi Native BottlesIf you love wine, you’ll notice that more and more often specific sub-regions are being listed on the label. And well beyond that, single vineyards are often highlighted. In some cases these vineyards become famous and take on a life of their own with numerous producers sourcing fruit from them.  Single vineyard designated wines are quite common in the world of zinfandel, and a lot of zinfandel comes from the Lodi region of California. Six winemakers from that area have set out to show how distinct wines from Lodi can be. Furthermore their goal is to highlight the specific vineyards. They have done this by choosing heritage plantings that often date back to the late 1800s. Each winemaker used exactly the same methodology to produce the wines. Head over to The Daily Meal to read the rest.

V.Sattui - 2007 Black Sears Zinfandel

One of the constantly fascinating things about wine is the sense of discovery that waits around every corner and in most every bottle. Depending on how adventurous you are you may find new things in your local wine shop, online or when you visit the wine regions of your choice. V.Sattui Winery is one of the age old secrets that await you in Napa Valley. They sell their wines through the tasting room and online, direct to consumers. So unless you’ve been to Napa or a friend has gifted you a bottle, you might not know about them. That would be a shame as they’ve been turning out a diverse selection of fine wine for a long, long time. Today I’ll look at the current release of one of their Zinfandels. The V.Sattui 2007 Black Sears Zinfandel was produced using fruit sourced exclusively at the vineyard of the same name. Black Sears Vineyard sits on Howell Mountain in Napa Valley. This offering is 100% Zinfandel. Aging occurred over 16 months in French oak; half of the barrels were new, the other half previously used. A mere 400 cases of this wine were produced and it sells for $40.

Bramble, vanilla and berry fruit aromas are all present in the nose of this 2007 single vineyard Zinfandel. Throughout the palate cherry, plum, and blueberry come together as a trio to form the core of this wines gloriously dry flavor profile. This Zinfandel has a lengthy finish which shows off sour cherry, minerals, earth, espresso, and black pepper. This wine has impressive structure with firm, gripping tannins, and excellent acidity.

What I like best about this wine is the impeccable balance it shows off. This is a Zinfandel made in a style that is both restrained and loaded with flavor. The V.Sattui Black Sears Zinfandel is delicious today, however those with patience will be rewarded. This wine is an ager to be sure. It’ll improve over the next 5-8 years and drink well for at least 4-6 after that. One of the most impressive Zinfandels I’ve tasted this year. If you love Zin, grab this small production beauty before it’s gone.

Acorn Winery - 2006 Russian River Cabernet Franc

Crossing valleys, today's stop for the 12 Days of Cabernet Franc, finds me acornlogo1030smlin Sonoma. Acorn Winery was born in 1994 after Betsy & Bill Nachbaur purchased Alegría Vineyards. Some of the vineyards they took over (Zinfandel mostly) date as far back as 1890. Their focus has been on Field Blends and Estate grown wines. Using sustainable practices has also been an important piece of their operating philosophy. Acorn Winery makes approximately 3,000 cases of wine per year. The 2006 Acorn Cabernet Franc is from fruit sourced at their Alegría Vineyard in Russian River Valley. This wine has 4% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot. This Franc was aged in a combination of French, American, and Hungarian oak for 17 months, 54% of it was new. 379 cases were produced, and the suggested retail price is $32.

The nose of this Russian River Cabernet Franc is filled with plum, violets, cedar and a hint of earth. The palate, which really speaks of this wine's origins, has dark berry notes, black pepper, and more toasty oak. The finish has lots of the earth that was only hinted at earlier as well as a hint of chicory and a touch of sour cherry. This wine has firm but approachable tannins and good acidity. Like the other Acorn wines I've had previously this Franc is made to enjoy with food. I had it with Gnocchi in Wild Boar Ragu, which was a tremendous match.

What struck me most about this wine, was its deceptive levels of complexity. The first handful of sips washed over me. After that though, the wine really started opening up, and revealing its subtle and complex layers of both dark fruit, and earth. This offering scores points on two other fronts. It's both an excellent example of Cabernet Franc and a terrific example of the sorts of wine Russian River can produce.

Up Next: 4 More Days of Cabernet Franc!

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Cooper-Garrod - 2005 Cabernet Franc

The next stop for the 12 Days of Cabernet Franc is back in the Santa Cruzcgarrod-cf Mountains. Cooper-Garrod Vineyards is a small, family run operation. The 120 acres that make up their Estate, have been in the family for over 100 years. 28 of those acres are under vine. They've been producing wine since 1991. The 2005 Cooper-Garrod Cabernet Franc is 100% varietal. The fruit is from Estate vines planted in 1985. Cuttings for that planting date back to a turn of the Century French settler. This wine spent 11 months in barrel. 556 cases were produced, and the suggested retail price is $25.

The nose of this Franc opens with a bevy of berry fruits, and a hint of spice. Blackberry and black raspberry jam are prominent through the palate, along with black cherry, and pie crust spices. A touch of earth, and a bit of bramble, are present as well. The finish is above average in length. A host of spice notes dominate, but are also joined by sour cherry, subtle leather, and a gentle hint of tea. The last sensation is a hit of mineral that tickles the back of the throat and lingers.

What I liked best about this Cabernet Franc is that the palate is full of rich and persistent fruit notes that are also restrained and never go over the top. This is a mouth-filling wine, which could be enjoyed alone, but will perform better with food. Pot Roast comes to mind as an excellent accompaniment. This Cabernet Franc should drink well for the next 5-7 years.

Up Next: 12 Days of Cabernet Franc Continues!

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Owl Ridge Wines - 2005 Brigden Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

A couple of weeks back I looked at some Pinot Noir's from Willowbrook owlridgeheadCellars. Joe Otos is the winemaker for those wines. He's also the person who makes the two Cabernet Sauvignons I'm looking at today and tomorrow. These two Cabernet's are from Owl Ridge Wines. Their focus is to produce Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon from Sonoma County fruit. The Owl Ridge Wines 2005 Cabernet was produced from fruit sourced at Brigden Vineyard. That vineyard is located in the hills between Sonoma Valley and Napa Valley's Spring Mountain. This wine was aged for almost two years in French oak, 40% of it new. 256 cases of this Cabernet Sauvignon were produced and the suggested retail price is $48.

This Cabernet opens with a big, fragrant nose full of violets. Blueberry and blackberry fruit dominate the palate, underscored by dark, dusty baker's chocolate. Around the mid-palate cherry notes emerge and stay in play through the finish. Speaking of which, the finish is impressively long, lingering and memorable, featuring earth, spice (most notably white pepper), and mocha notes. This wine has firm but approachable tannins and good acidity. This is a very well built wine that lets the fruit shine on through. A steak would be an excellent match for this Cabernet.

The finish is what most impressed me about this wine. It goes on for quite a long time. While this Cabernet is drinking well now, especially after a solid hour in the decanter, it should improve for some time. My bet is that it shows positive evolution over the next 3-5 years and drinks well for 5 or so after that. The Brigden Vineyard Cabernet from Owl Ridge Wines is an excellent effort well worth the price. This is the sort of wine to consider for your holiday meal.

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Bella Vineyards - 2006 Big River Ranch Zinfandel

During the 12 Days of Zin I looked at a couple of wines from Bella Vineyards & Wine Caves. They were in a word, impressive. So I'm happy to have more offerings from them to look at. While they make a number of other varietals, I'm looking at another one of their Zinfandels today. bellaThe 2006 Big River Ranch Zinfandel is made from fruit sourced at in Alexander valley. Big River Ranch is a hillside vineyard that overlooks the Russian River. 14 acres of the Zinfandel vines are 110 years old. 11% Petite Sirah and 4% Syrah were blended in.  This wine was aged for 18 months in oak, 20% of it new, with a large percentage of it from Virginia. The suggested retail price for this Zinfandel is $38.

The Big River Ranch Zin is tight out of the bottle and decanting is highly recommended to get the most of out of this wine if you're drinking it now. An hour is what I'd suggest. Once it has opened up, raspberry and black cherry jump out in the nose along with cedar and light bramble notes. An avalanche of berry comes out in the palate along with mocha and more prominent bramble. The finish is long, lingering and lusty, loaded with spice, earth and black tea notes as well as hints of mineral. This Zinfandel has excellent acidity and terrific balance.

What I like best about the Big River Ranch Zinfandel from Bella Vineyards is how layered, lush and complex it is. It has some big fruit notes but it's ultimately a very proportionate wine. Each of the wines I've tasted from this producer has been fantastic. This is definitely a Zinfandel to seek out if you like classically styled versions of the varietal. This wine should have a pretty nice shelf life ahead of it. I expect it to improve over the next 2-3 years and drink well for at least 5 after that.

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Dry Creek Vineyard - 2006 Taylor's Vineyard Musqué

musqThere are several varietals that come to mind when I think of Dry Creek Vineyard. One of those is Sauvignon Blanc. They make three different offerings of this varietal. One is part of their Signature Wines series and the other two are part of their Single Vineyard offerings. I'm going to look at all three of the current Sauvignon Blanc releases this month. I'll start today with one of the single vineyard selections. The 2006 Taylor's Vineyard Musqué is 100% varietal. The grapes used represent a specific clone of Sauvignon Blanc that Dry Creek Vineyard isolated to produce this offering. This wine was fermented in stainless steel. 539 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $25.

Honeydew melon and a host of tropical fruit notes lead an explosive nose that's underpinned by spices. The palate is rich, round and mouth filling throughout. This is a smooth, lush, opulent white wine loaded with guava, pear, pineapple and nutmeg from beginning to end. The finish on the 2006 Musqué is impressively long with lots of mineral and spice notes as well as a light undercurrent of subtle smoke. Tremendous acidity makes this an excellent match for many foods.

There are several things that make this wine stand out for me. The tremendous nose is one. The outstanding finish is another. At the end of the day though I'm most impressed by how unique this wine is. Sometimes wines produced from single vineyards or isolated clones aren't as individualistic as one would think they're going to be. That's not a problem here. The Taylor's Vineyard Musqué from Dry Creek Vineyard is both unique and impressive. I've tasted a boatload of Sauvignon Blanc this year, this is one of my 2 or 3 favorites. This is undeniably a wine to go out of your way to get.

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