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Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

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Cabernet Sauvignon

V. Sattui Winery - 2007 Vittorio's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

When you visit any wine region there are certain stops that become classics for one reason or another. In Napa Valley, V. Sattui Winery is one of those places that people return to again and again. In addition to some tasty wines they welcome large groups and have a diverse deli section available to pick up cheeses and other snack foods. They offer picnicking on their grounds and a wide variety of wine tasting options. In short V. Sattui is an incredibly warm and welcoming place to visit. V. Sattui’s history goes back 125 years. It has been in place at its current St. Helena location since 1975. To this day it’s a family owned and run winery. Today I’ll look at one of their single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons. The V. Sattui Winery 2007 Vittorio’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon was produced using Napa Valley fruit exclusively sourced at the namesake vineyard. In addition to Caberet a small dollop of Merlot (less than 3%) is part of this wine. Fermentation occurred in stainless steel. The wine was all barrel aged in French oak; half of the barrels were new and the other half were previously used. 931 cases of this selection were produced and the price for this wine is $35.

Leather, dark berry and plum aromas fill the nose of this 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. Fleshy dark fruit and sweet red berry notes intermingle through the palate which is intense, layered. Full flavored and very well proportioned. Earth, pencil lead, baker's chocolate, chicory and mineral characteristics all emerge on the finish which is rather lengthy. Solid acidity and finely ground but yielding tannins are part of the solid backbone of this offering.

This Cabernet is a little tight out of the bottle, but about 45 minutes of air in the decanter really allows this wine to blossom and express its many charms. This selection is really quite tasty now but it’ll improve in the bottle over the next few years and drink well for the next 6-8 at minimum. A classic example of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and a solid value to boot

Emblem - 2006 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon / 2006 Oso Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

If you spend any time at all tasting wine in Napa Valley some things become pretty apparent quickly. One of those things is the prevalence of Cabernet Sauvignon. You’d be hard pressed to spend a day in Napa and not taste a solid handful of different cabs; if not a ton of them. The dominance of Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa is such that when I run across the occasional producer who doesn’t make one it almost makes my head turn askew. Not that I’m complaining; I love excellent Cabernet Sauvignon and Napa Valley is home to some of the best examples in the world. Today I’ll take a look at two from Emblem. This Napa Valley producer is a project of father and son team Michael and Rob Mondavi. The Emblem 2006 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon was produced from grapes sourced at a single vineyard. This Rutherford vineyard sits east of the Napa River. This offering is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Grapes were hand harvested. Extended maceration occurred over an average of 21 to 28 days. Barrel aging was accomplished over 22 months in French oak; 66% of the barrels were new. 6 months of bottle aging occurred prior to release. The suggested retail price for this wine is $50.

A host of berry aromas, violets and thyme are prominent in the alluring nose of this 2006 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon. The palate, which is slightly austere, shows off dark berry notes which are underscored by hints of espresso and black pepper. Earth, pencil lead, and dark bittersweet chocolate notes are part of the above average finish. Firm but yielding tannins and solid acidity mark the fine structure.

The second offering is the Emblem 2006 Oso Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. The fruit for this selection was soured entirely from the family vineyard of same name. This selection is 100% varietal. Hand harvesting, de-stemming, gentle punch down and cap submersion were followed by 21 to 28 days of maceration. Barrel aging took place over 22 months in French oak; 45% of the barrels were new. 6 months of bottle aging followed prior to release. This Cabernet has a suggested retail price of $50.

Eucalyptus and dried berry aromas lead the nose of the Oso Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. There is an excellent core of dried fruits throughout the palate. Red raspberry, cherry and cranberry are particular standouts with subtler strawberry and blackberry notes kicking in as well. Minerals, mocha, espresso, chicory and earth are all part of the lengthy finish of this wine. Soft, finely knit tannins and terrific acidity are part of the impressive package here.

Both of these wines from Emblem are excellent expressions of Cabernet Sauvignon. What impresses me most about each of them is the remarkable balance and even keeled nature they show while maintaining length and intensity of flavor. These are Napa wines to be sure but they have old world intent and proportion. They’re both delicious now and each has the structure to age well, over the next decade.

Robert Mondavi Winery - 2007 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Napa Valley takes its place amongst the great sources in the world for Cabernet Sauvignon. In all the great Cabernet regions there is excellent wine to be had; these are made in many styles with varying intents. Today I’m going to look at the current release of a Napa Valley standby from Robert Mondavi Winery. The Robert Mondavi 2007 Napa Valley Cabernet was produced using fruit sourced primarily in a couple of locations; 38% from To Kalon Vineyard, 29% from Stags Leap and the rest from other Napa Valley Vineyards with the exception of 2% from Sonoma Valley. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (86%), Merlot (8%), Cabernet Franc (4%), Petit Verdot (1%) and Malbec (1%) were also blended in. Barrel aging was accomplished over 16 months in French oak; 15% of the barrels were new. The suggested retail price for this wine is $28.

Ripe berry fruit, plum, vanilla, cherry, a whiff of chocolate sauce and a wisp of thyme are all present in the boisterous nose of this 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. There is a ton of brambly fruit right in the heart of this wine’s palate. All of the ripe fruit flavors are joined by black pepper spice. Emerging earth, chicory, and dark dusty bakers chocolate are all significant parts of the above average finish. This wine shows off nice firm tannins and good acidity.

This wine is approachable from the word go, but it’s even better after about an hour of air. This offering is a standard bearer amongst Napa Valley wines. I’m happy to report that the 2007 version is a classic example of Napa Cabernet. For its price range it offers good value. Drink this release over the next 5-6 years for maximum pleasure.

Luce della Vite - 2007 Lucente

When it comes to red wine from Tuscany the first thing that springs to mind is Sangiovese. That Italian grape is responsible for some of the world’s very best wines. For a number of years now international varietals have of course also made a foothold there. Today I’ll look at a blend that combines the local and the international; most often these are referred to as Super Tuscans. The Luce della Vite 2007 Lucente was produced using grapes sourced in the Montalcino section of Tuscany. This blend is made up of Merlot (50%), Sangiovese (35%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (15%). Fermentation took place in stainless steel. Barrel aging was accomplished over 12 months in a combination of French and American oak; 60% of the barrels were new. 213,000 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $29.99.

Violets, dark cherry and thyme scents all emerge in the nose of this wine. Those aromas are a bit reticent at first but really come into their own as the wine opens up. So too with the palate, and about an hour in the decanter is heartily recommended to get the most from this offering. There is an absolute avalanche of dried fruit flavors present throughout the palate; both red and black reference point are included. Black pepper spice plays a role here as well and leads to the finish which shows off a terrific amount of prominent earth as well as lesser forceful espresso characteristics. Dusty cocoa notes close things out with a final flourish. This wine has excellent acidity and firm but yielding tannins.

This is a case of the Super Tuscan model working very well. The international varieties play a vital role, but never overshadow the Sangiovese, which is at the core of this wine even though it’s only 35% of the blend. At the end of the day this is a interesting wine that is both stylish and elegant in approach and overall mouth-feel. Pair this with any number of classic Italian dishes for a terrific match. Available in the mid $20’s if you shop around, this is a solid value.

Tasting Shirvington Cabernet Sauvignon & Shiraz

I recently had the chance to taste wine, over dinner, with the Shirvingtons. The namesakes of this Australian Winery were in the United States for the first time in many years showing off their wines. Lucky for me they brought quite a treasure trove of goodies to share. Lynne and Paul Shirvington started down the wine road in 1995. Their aim was for a simpler existence as farmers, and thus they decided that growing grapes would provide the life they were looking for and the challenges they craved. Between 1996 and 2001 they purchases 3 parcels of land. Their vineyard manager Peter Bolte has been with them since 1997 and their winemaker Kim Jackson since 2004. Starting with the 2001 vintage they have made wines that have garnered significant attention and acclaim. I was quite curious to sample their wines as I had not previously done so. It’s generally instructive to do so with the folks responsible and the Shirvingtons were no exception. In addition to founders Peter and Lynne their son Mark was in attendance as well. Their pride in their wines was clear as was their hospitality and charm.

In total we tasted five vintages of Shiraz and four of Cabernet Sauvignon. The fruit was sourced from their own vineyards. So the first step in consistency is controlling their source. Of course there is plenty of vintage variation between them. Tasting the wines side by side was an eye opener into their winemaking style and their track record as a producer. So while there was plenty to differentiate the wines I was struck by the positive attributes they have in common. There is a trio of things that most impressed me about the Shirvington wines as a whole.

The first is the balance and restraint both the Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz showed across each of the vintages. While these are by no means small wines, their heft is quite reasonable. The flavors are mouth-filling, even a bit relentless in their attack at times, but never over the top. Despite alcohol levels well over 15% on almost every offering, not a single one belied any discernable heat. Considering all the disproportionate wine from the world over, that is certainly no small feat.

The second thing that made me really take notice in these wines is their persistence and duration of palate. From the first whiff of the expressive nose through what is an above average finish on each of them, they’re profiles are notably lengthy

Age ability is another other quality about the Shirvington wines that stands out above most others. These wine have the legs to last quite awhile. The oldest wines we tasted were from their second vintage, 2002 and the youngest from 2008. The oldest wines were amazing; particularly in how much fresh fruit they still showed. It would have been very difficult to pick up that the Shiraz was an 8 year old wine. It speaks really well to the small lot, terroir driven approach they employ to make their wines. The older Cabernet was also very good, but showed more of the hallmark signs of an offering with some age on it. It’s hard to say precisely how long these wines will go but at 8 years old now they surely have a couple years more left to go, at the very least. The younger wines which benefited from additional aeration over the course of the evening have the same overall structure and characteristics to indicate that they will have a similar shelf life; perhaps even more as the vines gain age and they learn more and more about them over time.

It’s important to note, as I referenced above, that while there are many qualitative similarities between these wines, the vintage rules they day. The Shirvingtons are keen about making wines that speak very specifically about their place of origin in McLaren Vale. And even that very specific spot has different things to say each year. Weather is of course a huge factor and there have been some vintages affected to different degrees by drought. The Shirvingtons are extremely committed to overall quality; in fact if the fruit isn’t up to their standard they simply won’t make the particular wine that year.

The proof is in the bottle. For me the bottom line is the wine, and it’s clear when it comes to that they’re making all the right decisions. These are world class examples of Australian Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon respectively. Current vintages have a suggested retail price of $66.99 (Shiraz) and $59.99 (Cabernet Sauvignon). Whether you pick some up to knock your friends out today or you want to lay down some wine for the next decade, the Shirvington offerings are selections you should strongly consider.

Tasting the Phifer Pavitt 2006 Date Night Cabernet Sauvignon

My time in Napa is always precious. This most recent trip, a few weeks back, it was particularly so. While I was spending nine days in wine country tasting, only one was in Napa Valley. Spending one day in Napa feels like an eye blink to me, so I planned the day as well and carefully as I could. A couple of friends were going to be with me for the whole day so whatever I planned they’d be in on, something for me to be mindful of as I planned. When I was presented with the opportunity to meet Suzanne Phifer Pavitt, taste her wine and have dinner with her, I took  the chance. Even though the day was already pretty full, and I was unfamiliar with her or her wine it seemed like exactly the sort of great opportunity with fortuitous timing that pops up on the best trips to Napa Valley. Without question I’m glad I did. My friends and I met Suzanne at her property on the Silverado Trail. We got to see the Phifer Pavitt tasting room which is currently being completed. After seeing the property and getting a little bit of her history we made our way to dinner so we could learn more and taste her wine. Suzanne and her husband Shane spent a lot of date nights meeting up at various locations throughout California. At first their relationship was long distance and they would pick a place to meet and have a date night each week. Eventually once they were together it led them to buying property in Napa. Those date nights then started taking place on their property, where they dreamed of what it would become.

When the time came to name their wine they realized that Date Night was the natural choice for them. Sure it sounds catchy but for them the name embodies the essence of how they got around to making a wine to begin with. It’s rare (at least for me) to meet a person and feel as if you already knew them. Suzanne has that quality about her. She’s incredibly engaging and charming. Being from Georgia she’s imbued with down home hospitality; quite frankly it pours out of her.

Between stopping at her property and sitting in the restaurant we were all talking for close to a couple of hours and we hadn’t actually tasted her wine yet. At that point I was hoping I would like her wine because I already liked her. I’d have been genuinely disappointed if it turned out I didn’t care for her wine. The good news is that her wine is pretty terrific. Suzanne and her husband make a single offering, Cabernet Sauvignon. They’re currently on their second vintage which is 2006. The fruit is from the Pope Valley section of Napa. In addition to Cabernet winemaker Ted Osborne blended in 2% Petit Verdot. They made 275 cases of this wine and it has a suggested retail price of $75.

Over the course of a leisurely and delicious meal at Solbar we went through two bottles of Date Night and it left a lasting impression. The Phifer Pavitt 2006 Date Night Cabernet Sauvignon is classic example of Cabernet from the valley to my taste buds. Make no mistake it’s a big and bold wine, but it’s structured, well-balanced, and remarkably even, throughout a very persistent palate. The flavors are remarkably mouth-filling and completely take over, but do not overwhelm your senses. The finish is lengthy and the flavors linger for a good long while. The tannins are finely knit and give this Cabernet the structure to age gracefully over the next 6 or so years. And while it will certainly improve in the bottle, this Cabernet is ready to go now. This wine is simultaneously bold, refined and elegant. Date Night Cabernet Sauvignon harkens back a few years in my opinion, to when the goal was to make delicious, drinkable wine that had legs, not specifically to chase scores.

Before too long the Phifer Pavitt tasting room will be open. I highly recommend that you stop by. Tasting the wine and meeting the people behind it is likely to be an occasion you won’t forget. I generally only speak for myself but in this case I can safely say my friends and I all had a wonderful time getting to know Suzanne and her excellent Date Night Cabernet Sauvignon. I eagerly anticipate tasting the next vintage.

Photos by David Vermeire

Visiting Jordan Winery In Alexander Valley

Last week I had the opportunity to tour Jordan Vineyards & Winery, as well as taste their wines. While I had been there once in the past, it had been a number of years, so I was eager to see what if anything had changed in the ensuing years. Jordan Winery is a classic Sonoma County Estate, both because of their facility and the wines they produce. In a world where many producers have an ever increasing roster of wines, Jordan has remained hyper-focused on two things; Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. If you’re going to train the laser so closely on two varietals, it’s a very good idea to get those wines right.

I had the fortune of being an overnight guest on the Jordan property. That allowed me to really take things in and spend quite a number of hours just thinking about them and their wines. In my time there I had the opportunity to taste through several vintages each of Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. I didn't make formal notes, but my general impressions are included here.

At one time the Chardonnay was taken from their home estate in Alexander Valley. That’s no longer the case as they now source fruit under long term contracts from growers in the Russian River Valley. In tasting through the 2005, 2007 & 2008 vintages of Chardonnay the overall quality of the wine was obvious. There was a clear consistency in style, yet obvious vintage variation that allowed each wine to speak on its own. Most impressive to me was the 2005. Not that it was significantly better than the other two. In fact it would be tough to distinguish between the three as far as general quality goes. What knocked me out was how fresh, vital and full of fruit the 2005 still was. At 5 years old it showed no sign of letting up and I’d be surprised if it doesn’t drink well for several more years. Certainly the younger wines were even fresher and showed off a bit more bold fruit, with the 2005 featuring more mineral characteristics. Looking forward they all seem headed down the same delicious and long lived path.

The story with the Cabernet Sauvignon was similar. The older vintage of that wine I had the chance to taste was the 2000. It also displayed much more vibrant fruit than I would have expected at this point. I was particularly impressed with the holding power of this wine when taking into account all the 2000 Cabernet Sauvignons from both Sonoma and Napa Valley that are unimpressive. That wine goes a long way towards supporting the axiom that great winemakers shine in tough vintages. Rob Davis who has been at Jordan since the beginning has done an impressive job of helming these wines over the years without getting complacent. The Cabernet Sauvignon program has also had some changes over the last few years. At one time all the fruit was from their Estate. They now source some fruit from other growers. Mendocino is one of the notable locations they go to for outside fruit. Their goal is to make the best wine possible and if that includes some fruit sourcing that’s the direction they take. The more current releases of Cabernet Sauvignon I tasted again showed consistency of quality as well overall style. Despite being located in Alexander Valley Jordan is very much making wines that take old world styling into account. Balance and longevity are both big parts of the program.

The inside and outside of the Jordan Winery facility are beautiful and each has a charm that makes it seem it’s been there much longer than the 30+ years it has been. Touring the property is a revelation. It’s hard to properly describe how mammoth it is in size and scope. Perhaps the only thing more impressive than that is the shear beauty on display. Many wineries are almost all vineyard. This isn’t a surprise when you take into account the cost of acreage. Jordan has its vineyards of course, but they’re surrounded by acres and acres of unspoiled land.

Often times when I reach for a bottle of wine I go for the new and unknown. That can be fun and exciting. If you want a sure bet though Jordan Winery is a great go to choice. They continue to bring an excellent product to market almost four decades into their existence. Many producers with similarly big reputations have gotten apathetic and rested on their laurels. To the contrary it’s clear to me that Jordan keeps reaching for the brass ring. They respect their own past, but they constantly strive to tweak their present, on a constant drive for perfection. So if you’re reaching for Alexander Valley Cabernet or Chardonnay these folks are worth the time and the money. If you’re going to taste wine in Alexander Valley, it’s worth making an appointment. Their staff is filled with friendly people loaded with information about their winery. The photos below will give you a hint about the beauty that awaits you if you visit.

Photos by David Vermeire

Jade Mountain Vineyards - 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon

Jade Mountain Vineyards blends both varietals and appellations. Their portfolio consists of wines that are blends of both types. Today I’ll look at their current release of Cabernet Sauvignon. The Jade Mountain 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon was made using fruit sourced in three separate appellations; 55% from Napa Valley, 41% Sonoma County and 4% Lake County. This selection is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine was aged in a combination of French and American oak. This offering most often sells for around $16.

Mid priced wines that source fruit from multiple appellations appeal to me conceptually. At their best these wines are strengthened by blending components with different characteristics from distinct growing regions. Both Napa and Sonoma produce great Cabernet Sauvignon, but they can be very different, to say the least. So on paper blending fruit from both regions with a dollop from Lake County sounds tasty.

Plum, cherry and blackberry characteristics are striking in the nose of this 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. A huge bust of cherry flavors continues that theme throughout the palate which is rich, plush and full flavored. Bosco Chocolate Syrup flavors, earth, minerals and a solid wallop of spice all contribute to a solid finish. This wine is well balanced, featuring yielding tannins and good acidity.

This Cabernet is pretty tasty but it was tight out of the bottle. An hour of air really helped it open up and express itself. Plenty of Cabernet character to be found here for the price point. This is a solid value that lives up to its intent of being an accessible Cabernet for a reasonable price.

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Piña - 2007 D’Adamo Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon / 2007 Buckeye Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

If you’ve spent any time tasting wine in Napa Valley you can attest to the fact that Cabernet Sauvignon is everywhere. It happens that Napa is one of the places in the world where Cabernet truly flourishes. When journeying from one winery to another it can be a bit overwhelming when you realize that if all you did was taste Napa Cabernet, it would become a part time job to try every one in the valley. It is tempting though because there are so many fine examples out there. Production sizes, styles, vineyards and more vary so greatly that this one terrific grape produces a sea of distinct offerings.

Today I’m going to look at two from one small producer, Piña Napa Valley. The Piña family has a long history in Napa Valley that dates back to the 1860’s. While they are perhaps best known for their great reputation as vineyard managers, their wines have also earned a strong following and exceptional reputation amongst Cabernet lovers especially. Their winery is located on the Silverado Trail. Some of their offerings are made in tiny quantities and available only directly from the winery. Today’s selections, while still modest in case production, do see a little bit of distribution around the country.

First up is the Piña 2007 D’Adamo Cabernet Sauvignon. It is a single vineyard offering. The Piña family has leased this property since 1982. They replanted it in 1997. This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel aging was accomplished over 20 months in French oak; 68% of the barrels were new. Just over 1,000 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $75.

Black cherry, raspberry, truffle and a hint of eucalyptus mark the nose of this 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. Blackberry and continued cherry notes are evident throughout the palate. It has an intense, layered and well balanced attack loaded with wave after wave of unrelenting flavor. Graham cracker crust, tons of dusty baker’s chocolate, black pepper, earth and a terrific mineral component make up the lengthy finish of this wine. Tannins are finely grained and well integrated.

The D’Adamo Vineyard Cabernet is delicious right out of the bottle. But give it an hour or so of air, or watch it develop over a leisurely meal with a friend, and you’ll be even more impressed as it unleashes its charms. Of course laying it down for a few years would also work if you have the patience.

The second wine is the Piña 2007 Buckeye Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s also a single vineyard offering; Buckeye Vineyard is located on Howell Mountain. The Piña family has had this vineyard since 1996 and they planted it the following year. This selection is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel aging was accomplished over 20 months in French oak; 73% of the barrels were new. 840 cases of this Mountain Cab were produced and the suggested retail price is $85.

Leather, cigar box, plum, berry and thyme are all present in the nose of this wine. Dark fruit including black raspberry, blackberry and an undercurrent of plum are all present throughout the palate which is layered with mountain fruit intensity. Anise, chicory, chocolate and plum pudding spice notes emerge in the impressively lengthy finish of this wine. This offering is tightly structured with firm tannins and solid acidity.

Much like the previous Cabernet, the Buckeye Vineyard needs air. A couple of hours in the decanter are hardly out of the question; that time will allow it to really shine. In truth this wine is really just a baby right now. Don’t get me wrong it’s pretty tasty. But if you want to get the very best out of this wine, lay it down for 8-10 years and then open it up. If you do decide to drink it now, pair it with something substantial.

When people speak about top shelf Napa Cabernet Sauvignon the Piña wines are the sort of releases they mean. I know it’s the style and quality of Cabernet I think of when outstanding examples come to mind. Both of these wines are exceptional and each of them is really just at the beginning of its lifecycle. The D’Adamo is a bit more accessible at the moment and it would be my choice if I was picking amongst these to drink tonight. If you love Cabernet from Napa Valley, consider the wines from Piña, you can thank me later.

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Cornerstone Cellars - 2006 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon / 2005 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

It was about a year ago that I tasted the wines of Cornerstone Cellars for the first time. My initial impression was strong and favorable; so I took a closer look. Since that time I’ve had the chance to taste these wines a few other times. Notably at the 2009 Wine Bloggers Conference I was able to taste several vintages side by side. That experience underscored the quality of the wines and showcased the inherent ability these wines have to age. It also showcased the consistency from vintage to vintage that this boutique producer has established. Today I’m pleased to take a look at their current releases of Cabernet Sauvignon. First up is the Cornerstone Cellars 2006 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Fruit for this selection was sourced from four vineyard sites. This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel aging was accomplished over two years in French oak; a year of bottle aging followed. 1,200 cases of this vintage were produced and the suggested retail price is $65.

The deep, dark purple hue of this wine is striking the moment it’s poured from the bottle. Berry, eucalyptus and cedar aromas follow and fill the nose in a profoundly exciting manner. Rich berry flavors accompanied by spice are prominent throughout a layered palate that is tight at first, but opens with some air. Earth, pencil lead and espresso notes are al part of the lengthy and lingering finish. Firm tannins and solid acidity form the backbone of this wine.

If you’re going to drink this Cabernet now, decanting is in order and highly recommended. An hour will be good, 2-3 would be better. However if you have the patience lay this down for a few years and you’ll be rewarded by a wine that is more resolved and expressive than it its now in its exuberant youth. Either way this is a terrific Cabernet.

The second wine is the Cornerstone Cellars 2005 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon. 100% of the fruit for this wine was sourced at their organic vineyard block on Howell Mountain. This offering is also 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel aging was accomplished over two years in French oak; two years of bottle aging followed prior to release. 433 cases of this selection were produced. The suggested retail price is $100 (However it's currently $75 at their webiste).

Wild strawberry, red raspberry, cassis, mushroom and eucalyptus aromas are all part of the highly expressive and ostentatious nose of this 2005 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon. Cherry leads the way throughout a palate that is layered, complex, full flavored, intense, balanced, and in a word, impressive. Spice notes accompany the cherry and lead to the finish which shows off black tea, chocolate and earthiness that emerges more and more as this Cabernet opens up. The finish on this wine is very lengthy and particularly striking for the level of balanced intensity it maintains. Firm tannins and solid acidity lend to a wonderfully structured wine.

This Howell Mountain Cabernet is really just a baby right now. Yes it’s delicious, particularly after several hours of air, but it really should be put away for 5 or more years to truly come into its own. If you insist on drinking it now definitely decant it for several hours and pair it with something hearty. This is another excellent and exciting release from Cornerstone Cellars.

There are a lot of great Cabernets coming out of Napa Valley from producers of all shapes and sizes, so its hard to get to anywhere near all of them. Here are two tremendous ones that are well worth an extra special effort to locate. Cornerstone Cellars impressive run of top notch Cabernet Sauvignon continues with these releases.

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Jacob's Creek - 2001 Johann Shiraz / Cabernet Sauvignon

When it comes to Australian wine, Jacob’s Creek is amongst the ubiquitous names. Many of the wines in their “Classic” and “Reserve” tiers are widely available on US shelves. A bit harder to locate, are the “Heritage” line of wines. Today I’m going to look at one of the wines in that range. The Jacob’s Creek 2001 Johann Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon was produced using fruit sourced from a number of vineyard blocks. The varietal breakdown is 64% Shiraz and 36% Cabernet Sauvignon. The parcels were fermented and aged in oak separately. After 18 months In barrel the blend was created using the components they felt would best show off both the Shiraz and the Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is named after Johann Gramp, a Bavarian immigrant who planted the first commercial vineyard in the Barossa Valley. This wine most often sells for about $70.

Plum, blueberry and blackberry aromas fill the nose of this 2001 Australian blend. The palate of this wine is full flavored, layered and complex. Wave after wave of delicious dark berry fruit flavors are in evidence. That said this wine manages to retain balance and never go over the top. Vanilla, sour berry, white pepper and plum pudding spices emerge at mid-palate and continue through the impressive finish which also features copious mineral and white pepper notes. This wine has firm but yielding tannins and good acidity.

What I like best about this selection is the length of the finish coupled with the overall restraint the wine shows. While this offering, the benchmark wine of Jacob’s Creek, is full flavored it’s also impeccably balanced and structured. At nine years old now it still shows plenty of life. I expect this offering to drink well for the next 5-8 years. And while this will be a little harder to locate than their general release wines, the effort will be rewarded

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337 - 2007 Lodi Cabernet Sauvignon

A couple of years ago I was having lunch and 337 Cabernet Sauvignon happened to be a by the glass pour. I wasn’t familiar with it, so I gave it a shot. I found it to be a very appealing and straightforward Cabernet. My initial impression improved when I tasted it a second time and also when I realized its value based on bottle price. So I ended up writing about it. Since that time I’ve had the wine on a couple of other occasions. It’s a couple of vintages later and this seemed like a good time to revisit and see how the current release stacks up. The 337 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon was produced from Lodi fruit. This wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (78%), Malbec (15%) and Petite Sirah (7%). Aging is accomplished in a combination of French and American oak as well as stainless steel tanks. The 337 in the name of this wine represents the clone of Cabernet, imported from Bordeaux, that forms the basis of this selection. The suggested retail price for this wine is $12.99.

Black raspberry leads the nose of this 2007 Lodi Cabernet. Cherries dominate the palate and are supported by a layer of vanilla cream. Lush, fruity, hedonistic flavors dominate the appealing, up front flavors of this wines palate. Minerals and earth emerge in the smooth, medium length finish. This wine has soft tannins and sufficient acidity.

The 337 Cabernet Sauvignon has been consistent and the 2007 vintage continues that trend. This wine is a good example of the appealing and fruit forward wines that the Lodi area is known for. This is a Cabernet that is meant for early drinking so it’ll be at its best over the next 2-3 years. For $12.99 (a couple bucks less is you shop around), this wine is a good value, particularly if you’re headed to a party loaded with people with various taste in wine.

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Bodega Septima - 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon

When it comes to South American wine Cabernet Sauvignon was the first varietal I started drinking. It was my realization back then that there was great value in the Cab category that started me on tasting wines from both Chile and Argentina. Perhaps because it was the first thing from there I started that I still get excited when I find a solid Cabernet Sauvignon value from South America. Over the last few months I’ve had the chance to taste a number of wines from Bodega Septima. During the next couple of days I’m going to report on a few recent examples I’ve really liked. Today I’m going to look at their current release of Cabernet Sauvignon. The Bodega Septima 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon was made using fruit sourced in Luján de Cuyo, south of Mendoza. This selection was producing 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel aging was accomplished over six months in American oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is $11.99.

Dark berry, thyme, toast and vanilla bean aromas fill the nose of this 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. Sweet berry fruit notes lead the palate. Pie crust flavors emerge around the mid-palate making Blackberry pie the predominate reference point. Black pepper and hints of smoke lead the finish followed by earth and chicory. This wine has soft tannins and solid acidity. The Bodega Septima is an excellent choice to pair with burgers or pasta in red sauce.

This 2007 Cabernet from Bodega Septima hits the marks I look for in this category. For $12 or less you get a wine that has solid varietal character as well as sufficient complexity. It’s meant for short term drinking but should hold its charms for the next couple of years. This is a good value.

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Haber Family Vineyards - 2006 Diamond Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon

There are winemakers out there who work on numerous projects throughout the year on a consulting basis. Some like Napa Valley’s Bob Pepi consult in several countries as well as work on their own projects. Another California based one who hit my radar over the last few years is Tim Milos. Various wines he was involved with impressed me, but it was Tim’s work with Rubissow that really knocked my socks off. So when I became aware of Haber Family Vineyards, his involvement was one of the reasons I was interested in checking out their wine. They’re a mountain Winery like Rubissow and it takes a particular talent in my opinion to get the best out of mountain fruit. New wineries and small family owned producers are of particular interest to me as well and Haber Family Vineyards, which was started in 2004, fits both bills. While their winery sits on Howell Mountain they also produce a wine from Diamond Mountain. Today I’ll look at that wine. The Haber Family Vineyards 2006 Diamond Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon is their inaugural release. This offering is composed entirely of Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel aging was accomplished over a period of 20 months in French oak; 85% of the barrels were new. A mere 380 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $80.

This 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon has a beautiful dark hue that presents strikingly when poured. Deep, dark, brooding, berry notes lead the nose. Subtle eucalyptus, cedar and vanilla aromas also play a role. The palate is generously flavored and loaded with layer after layer of well proportioned and even keeled, but relentless and intense fruit flavors. Plum, cherry and blackberry are the most prominent. A host of spice notes are present as well.  These flavors give way to chocolate covered blackberry and an avalanche of earth that form the core of this wines tremendous finish. This Cabernet has good structure and firm tannins; excellent acidity provides the framework.

If you’re going to drink this wine over the next couple of years, decanting it is highly recommended to get the most out of it. If you have the patience to lay it down, this Mountain Cab will evolve beautifully over the next decade or so. I went back to this Cabernet after it had been open for 24 hours and again when it had been open for 48 hours. In both cases the wine had continued to evolve positively. It might have even been at its best after 48 hours. In any case it was consistently impressive

The lengthy finish and depth of flavor in the palate are both noteworthy. When you take into account that this wine is the first release it’s exciting to consider what Haber Family Vineyards will unleash going forward. It’s also clear that Tim Milos is amongst the folks who have the ability to get at the core of mountain fruit and let it show off its purity and power. This is an excellent wine, well worth its price tag.  

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Urraca - 2007 Familia Langley Reserva

It was just about a year ago that I first tasted the offerings from Argentine producer Urraca Wines. Since then I’ve gone back to them several times and been impressed each time with their overall portfolio. Their wines hit a different segment of the Argentine wine imports than most. Within the vast number of wines from Argentina, the majority on US shelves are value based. Some of those values are outstanding and provide quality and some are generic. What Urraca does from the get go is to aim higher. They start at a premium level and then also make super-premium offerings. So while the least expensive wine you’re going to find from them is in the mid to high teens, there is value to be had. Today I’m going to look at the current release of their flagship wine. This wine is certainly within the super-premium category. The question is does it still deliver value, or even a bargain, in its price point.

The Urraca 2007 Familia Langley Reserva is made using fruit from the Mendoza region of Argentina. The proprietary blend is composed of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Malbec (30%), and Merlot (30%). Barrel aging was accomplished over 18 months in a combination of French and American oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is approximately $70.

A potpourri of dark berry aromas lead the exuberant nose of this 2007 blend. Blackberry and cherry (both red and black) intermingle along with lots of white pepper and hints of nutmeg throughout the palate of this selection. This wine has serious length. The impressive finish is marked my minerals, earth, black pepper and a hints of charcoal. This wine has firm tannins that soften in the glass. Excellent acidity provides the framework and keeps everything in check.

There are three things which I find equally impressive about this wine. First and quite importantly is its consistency. I was blown away by the 2005 version of this wine and was quite curious to see how the 2007 edition would stack up. Nothing to worry about there, the 2007 is every bit as impressive. The second thing that struck me is the tremendous level of even-keeled intensity that this wine displays from the first sip through the long finish. There are a lot of wines that hit you up front with big fruit and then the flavor drops as if it fell from a cliff. While this wine has little peaks and valleys, it manages to maintain a notable level of complex, layered and concentrated flavors throughout. The third thing that impresses me is the finish on the Familia Langley, which is noteworthy in length.

If you’re going to drink this wine in the short term, decanting for an hour or two is strongly recommended. However if you’re patient and can lay it down for a few years, you will be rewarded by a wine that will show plenty of positive evolution. Yes this wine is $70, and yes for that money it’s still, very much, an excellent value. It compares favorably to many blends from a number of regions of the world that hit the triple digit price point.

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Valentin Bianchi - 2008 Elsa Chardonnay / 2008 Elsa Malbec / 2008 Elsa Cabernet Sauvignon

It’s good to have some go to things in life. When it comes to wine there are some producers that I look to for a variety of reasons. Sometimes it’s simply quality. Other times it’s value and availability. Valentin Bianchi from Argentina scores for me on all three counts and then some. They have several tiers of wine, all of which are interesting and fairly priced for what they provide. And their wines are available across the country in a wide variety of retailers. Today I’m going to look at three wines I enjoyed in their lowest priced tier. The Elsa wines are named after the wife of their founder, who is also the Grandmother of the current owners. The vineyards surround the house she lived in. First up is the Valentin Bianchi 2008 Elsa Chardonnay. This selection is produced using estate fruit from San Rafael Mendoza vineyards. In addition to Chardonnay (90%), Semillon (10%) is also blended in. During fermentation in stainless steel, French oak staves were used to add complexity. 2,000 cases of this wine were imported and the suggested retail price is $8.99.

Pineapple, Meyer lemon and white peach aromas burst forth from the evocative nose of this Chardonnay. Mango, guava and lots of golden delicious apple notes are all part of the fresh and appealing palate. Apple pie crust, lemon custard, vanilla and speckles of white pepper make up the medium length finish of this Chardonnay. Good acidity balances things out.

What I like about this Chardonnay is that it puts its best fruit forward. This is a fresh, lively wine meant to enjoy in its youth. While the small amount of oak used added some complexity it doesn’t detract from what is a very fruit driven offering.

The second wine is the Valentin Bianchi 2008 Elsa Malbec. Fruit for this offering was sourced at the same Estate vineyard in Mendoza as the Chardonnay. This selection is 100% Malbec. This wine saw minimal oak aging. 15,000 cases of this wine were imported and the suggested retail price is $8.99.

Plum, blueberry, vanilla and floral notes are all part of the slightly jam influenced nose of this Malbec. The palate also shows some jam fruit characteristics with red and black berry fruit intertwining. Black raspberry, blackberry and strawberry are of particular note. A layer of vanilla underpins these along with touches of orange peel. Kalamata olive, touches of smoke, and white pepper highlight the medium length finish. This Malbec has sufficient acidity.

Giving this wine 30 minutes of air really helps it open up and allows its flavors to pop. I like the consistency this wine has shown from vintage to vintage. This is a great starter Malbec and an affordable one for everyday drinking.

The last wine today is the Valentin Bianchi 2008 Elsa Cabernet Sauvignon. Fruit for this wine was also sourced at the Family’s original home vineyards. This selection is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine had minimal oak aging. 10,000 cases of this 2008 vintage were imported and the suggested retail price is $8.99.

Black fruit such as raspberry, blackberry and blueberry lead the nose of this wine along with hints of vanilla and cedar. Dark, juicy berry fruit tells the story of this wines mid-palate. Black pepper and additional vanilla emerges on the finish. This wine has nice structure and good acidity.

This 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon drinks well off the bat. That said, an hour of air really exposes all of its charms. This is a fruity, fresh Cabernet meant to be drunk in it’s youth. It’ll pair well with a burger and drinks nicely on its own too.

All three of these Elsa wines represent good values. While the suggested retail price is $8.99 you can certainly find them for less if you shop around. Each of these is a solid contender for everyday drinking. They’re also good bets to pick up a case of so you always have something affordable and dependable on hand.

Château Larose-Trintaudon - 2004 Haut-Médoc

A lot of people I know drink New World Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with great regularity. When it comes to Old World examples many friends I know seem a bit timid. There is definitely a perception out there that French and Italian wines specifically are very expensive. And while there are certainly lots of well regarded and highly priced wines out there, both countries features many excellent wines that are affordable to wide audiences for everyday drinking. Today I’ll look at such a wine from Bordeaux. The Château Larose-Trintaudon Haut-Médoc 2004 is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot (40%). Barrel aging occurred in 100% French oak.  The suggested retail price for this wine is $17.95

Dark fruit aromas are the embodiment of this Bordeaux’s nose. These are joined by wisps of smoked meat and some toasty oak notes. Cherry leads the palate which features a persistent core of dried fruit notes. Cranberry and plum feature in notably as well. These dark, dry fruit characteristics are underscored by hints of licorice that lead to the finish. Espresso, loads of earth and black pepper notes are the most outstanding characteristics of the notable finish. This wine has firm tannins and excellent acidity.

This Bordeaux Blend from Château Larose-Trintaudon is a very nice value and a terrific wine. If you drink New World Cabernet or Merlot in the $20 price range you’re likely to find that this wine will compare favorably in quality and enjoyment. Shrewd shoppers will find that this wine is most often available right around $15. If you haven’t made the leap to the Old World yet, here’s a fine place to start.

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Rodney Strong Vineyards - 2006 Brothers Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon / 2006 Rockaway Cabernet Sauvignon

Last year Rodney Strong Vineyards added a new wine to their line. In addition to the County wines, Reserve wine etc. they added the Rockaway Cabernet Sauvignon. This was a single vineyard effort and was made in a smaller production than the vast majority of their other releases. This year they added a second release in this category. Today I’ll cover both of the current releases of these single vineyard Cabernets. First up is the Rodney Strong Vineyards 2006 Brothers Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon. This selection is made entirely from fruit sourced at the Brothers Ridge Vineyard in Alexander Valley. This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel aging was accomplished over 22 months in French oak; 42% of the barrels were new. The suggested retail price for this wine is $75.

Vanilla, cedar, blackberry and leather are all prominent in the nose of this 2006 Cabernet. The rich, ripe and structured palate of this wine features relentless and powerful layers of intense dark fruit. Continued blackberry and dark plum are right up front throughout. Sweet dark chocolate, as well as persistent and lingering mineral notes lead the finish along with earth notes in spades. The alcohol for this wine clocks in over 15%. Despite that it doesn’t drink hot at all and retains good balance, marked by excellent acidity.

The second wine is the Rodney Strong Vineyards 2006 Rockaway Cabernet Sauvignon. The fruit for this wine was sourced at the Rockaway vineyard which was planted in 1994. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (97%), small amounts of Malbec (2%) and Petit Verdot (1%) were blended in. Barrel aging was accomplished over 22 months in French oak; 47% of them were new. The suggested retail price for this wine is $75.

Black raspberry, plum and wisps of vanilla are all apparent on the nose of the 2006 Rockaway Cabernet Sauvignon. The palate of this wine is big and beefy with alternating red and dark fruit characteristics. Licorice, graphite, earth, hints of espresso and dark, dusty chocolate are all part of the lengthy finish. This wine has firm tannins and solid acidity.

I like each of these Cabernets a lot. They’re excellent and distinct expressions of specific vineyards in 2006. Both are tasty now and each will also benefit with a bit of additional bottle age. The Brothers Ridge is the more immediately accessible today with about an hour in the decanter really opening it up. The Rockaway is tighter right now and needs closer to 2 hours to really express itself. These wines are best enjoyed with substantial foods.

Considered alongside their portfolio as a whole these wines also add another dimension of complexity to the Rodney Strong family of offerings. They’re a huge Sonoma producer and it’s good to see them also spreading some of their focus to a couple of small production offerings. Here’s hoping this program gets expanded in the future to include other small production, single vineyard offerings, whether its additional Cabernet or some other varietals.

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Rodney Strong Vineyards - 2007 Chalk Hill Chardonnay / 2006 Alexander Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

Sonoma County’s Rodney Strong Vineyards is one of the wineries I’ve gone back to time and again for a look at current releases. In addition to being a consistent producer at a wide-ranging number of tiers, they’re wines are also extensively available throughout the country. My next few posts will look at six wines in their portfolio that I recently tasted and enjoyed. In addition to wines under the Rodney Strong Vineyards name I’ll also look at a few releases from one of their other labels. Today I’ll cover one of their Chardonnays and a Cabernet Sauvignon. First up is the Rodney Strong Vineyards 2007 Chalk Hill Chardonnay. This selection is produced using  fruit sourced from Chalk Hill. This wine is 100% Chardonnay. 97% of it underwent malolactic and was aged in French oak for 9 months.  The suggested retail price for this offering is $20.

Intermingling fruit aromas, particularly pear and apple burst from the nose of this Chardonnay along with vanilla and toasty oak notes. The orchard fruit theme continues throughout the palate where Macintosh apple and Asian pear notes are prominent and layered along with hints of crème fraîche, pie crust, and baker’s spices. This solid core of persistent fruit leads to a nice finish that shows off a flourish of lemon custard, wisps of smoke and a final echo of crème brûlée

The Chalk Hill Chardonnay does a nice job straddling the oak line. It has added complexity and spice characteristics that have been imparted from its time in barrel. Importantly though the oak never detracts from the fresh and lively fruit. This is a very solid Chardonnay in its price category, and a consistent one from vintage to vintage too.

The second wine I’m recommending today is the Rodney Strong Vineyards 2006 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is made from estate fruit. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (92%), Merlot (6%), and Petite Verdot (2%) are also blended in. Barrel aging was accomplished over 21 months in a combination of French and American oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is $25.

Black cherry, plum and hints of ash waft with conviction from the nose of this 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon. A back and forth tussle for your taste buds between red and black fruits occur throughout the rich and persistent palate. Dried cranberry, blackberry and continued plum notes are the most prominent. These lead to a lingering finished most notably marked by tobacco, earth, leather and a rich vein of mineral notes. A hit of sour cherry provides a final, memorable reference point. This wine has yielding tannins and good acidity.

For $25 (less if you shop wisely) this Cabernet Sauvignon provides good varietal and regional character. It’s also a fine wine to drink while your reserve Cabernets are gaining some bottle age. Much like the Chardonnay above this wine has been a consistent performer from vintage to vintage.

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Bodegas Navarro Lopez - 2007 Rojo Tempranillo / Cabernet Sauvignon

Spain's Bodegas Navarro Lopez  has a history that dates back over 100 years. Current owners Don Doroteo and Navarro Donado purchased the property in the 1980's. Between that original property and two others acquired in the 1990's they have over 150 hectares of vineyard land. A majority of their holdings are planted to Tempranillo, Garancha and Macabeo. Today I'll look at one of their blends under the Granrojo designation. The Rojo 2007 Tempranillo/Cabernet Sauvignon is produced using fruit from the Valdepenas region of Spain. The vineyard site is 700 meters above sea level. This offering blends 90% Tempranillo and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. 3,000 cases of this vintage were imported and the suggested retail price is $10.99.

Violet and rose petal aromas are joined by both red and black fruit characteristics in the nose of this Spanish blend. The palate of this wine is beautifully dry with cranberry, cherry and hints of strawberry all playing a role. Spice notes really kick in about halfway through with white pepper leading the charge along with a bit of nutmeg. The story of the finish is told primarily by what can be best described as an avalanche of mineral notes. These are joined by some earth and together they help provide good length. Firm acidity frames this offering. This wine will be a great match for grilled sausages or cured meats.

Finding wines that are worth drinking in this price range is fun and can be rewarding. they're out there to be sure. However this selection kicks things up a few pegs. The mineral component on the finish is both generous and compelling. When you factor that in it sets this wine apart. A lovely little wine and an even better value for the money.

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