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Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

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Cabernet Sauvignon

Irony - 2008 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

It’s not difficult to find good Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley. Spend a little bit of time there and you practically trip over all the fine examples that are available. What is trickier however is finding solid Napa Cabernet at an everyday price. I’m not talking about showcase wines that need to be aged or overly examined; rather just good, solid ones most folks can afford to drink with a casual meal. Today I’ll look at a well priced Cabernet from Irony and see if it fits the bill. The Irony 2008 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was produced using fruit sourced primarily in the Wooden Valley section of Napa; it sits east of Yountville. The remainder of the fruit is from Pope Valley. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (90%), this wine also contains small amounts of Petite Sirah (6%) and Merlot (4%). Fermentation took place in stainless steel with daily pumpovers. Malolactic fermentation took place in barrel. This wine was aged in a combination of French and American oak for 11 months. 19,000 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $13.99.

Dark berry fruit aromas are present on the nose of this wine along with bits of eucalyptus and dry green herbs. The palate is incredibly juicy with blueberry, blackberry and dark plum flavors stealing the show alongside some core spices. Toasty oak, vanilla, white pepper and espresso characteristics mark the finish which has reasonable length. This Cabernet has soft tannins and well integrated acidity. This wine will pair will with meat or mushroom dishes. It also drinks well on its own.

This wine is exactly what I’m looking for when it comes to under $15 Cabernet from Napa Valley. It has good varietal character, and it’s well balanced with a finish that has better than decent length. This wine is aimed a short term consumption; I’d drink it over the next 2 years when it’s fruit flavors are at their peak.

Cinnabar Winery - 2008 Mercury Rising

The Cinnabar Winery 2008 Mercury Rising was produced from fruit sourced in four California appellations; Paso Robles, Lodi, Lake County, and Monterey County. This wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. All of the fruit for this selection was hand harvested during cool morning hours. Fermentation took place in open top bins and stainless steel tanks. Barrel aging occurred over 25 months in a combination of French, American and Hungarian oak; 40% of the barrels were new. A light filtering took place just prior to bottling. This wine has a suggested retail price of $21. Vanilla, cherry, pepper and cigar box aromas are all prominent on the nose of this 2008 blend. The palate is loaded with additional cherry as well as blueberry flavors. A solid core of spices plays a significant role here as well; nutmeg, clove and a hint of cinnamon are of particular note. Sour cherry, pomegranate and rhubarb characteristics are all part of a smooth finish that has a velvety feel. This wine has soft, approachable tannins and solid acidity.

There’s a lot to like about this 2008 Blend from Cinnabar. First and foremost it’s delicious and perfectly suited for a wide array of cuisine. Whether you pair it with a dish of pasta or something off of your grill the results will be a terrific pairing. In addition to that this wine also represents a nice value. If you shop around you’ll find it for around $18, at that price it’ll be a good everyday choice for a lot of folks.

Koyle - 2008 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Sauvignon really rules the roost in a number of different wine regions. Chile is one of the countries that has really made a mark with this classic varietal. Long before the average consumer recognized Chile as a go to country for good values, wine geeks recognized that Chile was exporting a ton of terrific Cabernet at hard to beat prices. These days you can get Cabernet from Chile at every conceivable level of quality and for just about any price point. Today I’ll look at one from Koyle. The Koyle 2008 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon was produced using fruit sourced at three areas within the Colchagua Valley. All of the fruit was hand harvested. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (86%) this wine also contains Carmenere (14%). After fermentation aging took place in a combination of French Oak (60%) and stainless steel tanks (40%). The wine is filtered once prior to bottling. This Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon has a suggested retail price of $16.99.

Aromas of crushed fresh berries fill the nose of this 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon. A little wallop of herb underscores that along with touches of vanilla and white pepper. Both red and black cherries are prominent on the palate with the red taking the lead. Raspberry kicks in as well and these flavors are joined by a solid core of spices such nutmeg and clove in particular. Black pepper, espresso, cranberry and pomegranate notes emerge on the above average finish along with hints of black tea. This wine has soft, yielding tannins and firm acidity.

What appeals to me most about this Cabernet is the juicy, ripe mid-palate which is incredibly engaging. This wine is also well balanced and will pair well full flavored foods in particular. This Cabernet Sauvignon is best suited for drinking in its youth when the fruit flavors are going to shine. I recommend drinking this between now and 2015 for best results.

Cornerstone Cellars - 2007 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Napa Valley and Cabernet Sauvignon go together just about as well as any region and varietal. There are a dizzying number of excellent Cabernets emerging from Napa and it’s often hard to keep track. However one particular producer that has impressed me for awhile now is Cornerstone Cellars. They’ve expanded of late and they’re about much more than Cabernet Sauvignon. Each of their releases is worth a long look; Cabernet however remains their benchmark wine. Today I’ll look at the current release of their Napa Valley Bottling. The Cornerstone Cellars 2007 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is made entirely from fruit sourced in Napa. Vineyards in three distinct sections of Napa are utilized. One third each came from Howell Mountain, Oakville, and Southern Napa County. This wins is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. The lots from each vineyard were fermented separately. Barrel aging took place over a 21 month period in all French Oak; 75% of the barrels were new. 1,200 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $60.

The deep, dark hue of this Cabernet Sauvignon is immediately apparent when you pour it. Aromas of berry, cherry, leather and a touch of eucalyptus each inform the nose with prominence. The palate is loaded with black, purple and red fruits; blueberry, blackberry, and cherry are quite prominent and accompanied by a bevy of spices such as pepper and clove. Earth, pencil lead and chicory are the main cogs of the lengthy, persistent finish. This wine has relatively firm tannins which yield with some air, as well as solid acidity.

There’s a lot to like about this Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s an intense wine, layered with concentrated fruit flavors, but it still manages to show restraint and excellent proportion. It’s a fine example of what can be achieved with cuvee style offerings in Napa Valley. My recommendation is to lay this wine down for roughly 3 years and to drink it in the 5 after that. If you’re drinking it today, decant it for 90 minutes to get the most out of it. The bottom line is that Cornerstone Cellars continues to turn out vintage after vintage of classic Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Parducci Wine Cellars- 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Sauvignon is a variety that flourishes in a huge number of appellations throughout the world. It’s also made in an even wider range of styles and with varying intent. The prices can range from dirt cheap to astronomical. Today I’ll look at a budget priced version from Mendocino County Pioneers Parducci Wine Cellars. The Parducci Wine Cellars 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon was produced using fruit sourced at family farms throughout Mendocino County. Parducci has long championed sustainable farming and green power. They were the first producer in the US to become carbon neutral. This wine was aged for 26 months; 20% in new American oak and the balance in a combination of Redwood and stainless steel tanks. 5,000 cases of this vintage were bottled and it has a suggested retail price of $10.99.

Aromas of plum, raspberry, violet and hints of toast light up the nose of this 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. Flavors of dried cherries are complemented by a spice core through the palate of this wine. Earth, cranberry, nutmeg and white pepper are each apparent on the finish. This wine has soft, supple tannins and fine acidity.

This Cabernet Sauvignon is a good value. It’s not the most complex Cab out there, but for under $11 it’s not expected to be. This is an appealing wine that shows good fruit, will marry with red sauces, cheeses, sandwiches, you name it. And most importantly it tastes like what it should, Cabernet Sauvignon. If you shop around this wine is often available for under $10. For that price this is a solid bet as a case buy. Keep it around as a house wine and drink it over the next 2-3 years.

Cinnabar Winery - 2006 Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon

More and more over the last few years I’ve been impressed with wines from the Santa Cruz Mountains. I’ve taken a few looks at some wines from Cinnabar and the time has come to revisit them. Cinnabar Winery has a history there that dates to 1983. The name of the winery comes from the belief of 14th century alchemists that they could use the mineral Cinnabar to transform everyday metals into gold. Cinnabar Winery founder Tom Mudd applied that magical thought to winemaking. In total Cinnabar Winery produces approximately 17,000 cases per year. Incorporated in that are three lines or tiers of wines. The Cinnabar Winery 2006 Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon was produced using hand picked fruit from two parts of the Santa Cruz Mountains. This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Oak aging took place over 30 months in small French Barrels. The final wine was assembled from a cuvee of select barrels. A mere 198 cases of this offering were bottled and it sells for $45.

Heady dark fruit aromas lead the nose of this 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon. Spice notes such as clove, vanilla and a hint of thyme underlie them in a firm supporting role. The palate shows off rich dark fruits that are filled with mountain grown intensity and concentration. Black cherry dominates with blackberry and blueberry fruit playing secondary roles along with a host of spices. Toasty oak, black pepper and wisps of nutmeg are all part of the finish which features terrific persistence. Firm tannins yield with some air and everything is kept in check by terrific acidity.

This is a fine example of Cabernet Sauvignon and an equally compelling illustration of the excellent wines being produced from Santa Cruz Mountains Fruit. If you drink this wine over the next couple of years I’d plan to decant it for 90 minutes and pair it with hearty for best results. However if you have some patience I’d lay this wine down for 5-8 years and drink it in the 5 after that. In either case you can’t go wrong this is a terrific Cabernet Sauvignon.

Reconsiderng a Napa Valley Legend; Robert Mondavi Winery

As we’ve grown precipitously as a wine drinking nation over the last couple of decades our choices have also increased. The number of outlets selling wine is way up and the options we have once we go there are in sharp contrast to what was available a number of years ago. The temptation in our culture is also to chase the new hot thing. Sometimes that leaves little room to reconsider or reconnect with something we already love. In this case that something is the Robert Mondavi Winery. There was no greater ambassador for both California wines and the importance of wine on our tables in this country than Robert Mondavi. Napa Valley and perhaps the entire US wine industry would look radically different today if not for the chances he took and the advances, in quality and more, that he championed. In the sea of wine that’s out there it’s easy to forget that. Recently I had the opportunity to taste through some current and older releases with winemaker Genevieve Janssens.

Tasting both new offerings and an older Cabernet Sauvignon really showed off the quality of winemaking that is still going on at this venerable Napa Valley house. A particular standout was the 2007 I Block Fume Blanc. This wine is made in tiny quantities (207 cases) and sourced from a specific block of the To Kalon vineyard. It was one of the more impressive Sauvignon Blancs I’ve tasted in quite awhile. At three plus years old it’s fresh and vibrant and still has plenty of life ahead of it. It’s only available through the winery (SRP $75) and well worth the extra effort to get it.

The event took place at Hearth Restaurant in New York and this allowed us to taste these wines as they are meant to be consumed; side by side with food. I sampled the 2008 Napa Valley Chardonnay with a rotating cast of different appetizers. This wine was produced with fruit sourced in Carneros (58%), East Napa foothills (29%), Sonoma County (10%), other Napa vineyards (3%). 69% of the juice was fermented in barrel; 13% of them were new. The balance was fermented in stainless steel. This Chardonnay which is widely available has a suggested retail price of $20. Orchard fruit aromas fill the nose of this wine along with a hint of spice. Golden delicious apple, pear, pineapple and guava all make their presence know through the palate. Minerals, apple pie crust and baker’s spice are each part of the finish which has impressive length for a Chardonnay in this price category. The use of oak here was judicious and it adds to the complexity, as opposed to some Chardonnays where it becomes a distraction. The bottom line is that this wine pairs well with a wide array of different foods and also drinks beautifully on its own. It’s one of the work horses in the Mondavi portfolio and it’s well worth trying if you haven’t had it in awhile.

Two vintages of the Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon were impressive for different reasons. The 1996 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve is an excellent example of the age worthiness of good Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon. Most (79%) of the fruit for it came from Oakville; much of it from To Kalon. When Robert Mondavi spoke of comparing Napa wines to his French counterparts it was wines like the reserve Cabernet that I bet he had in mind. This wine still has plenty of fruit on it, but it’s also become earthier and softer. It’s a pleasure to drink both with food and without.

The Robert Mondavi Winery 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon was made entirely with fruit from Oakville and 93% of it from To Kalon. This wine is bigger, bolder and a bit brasher today. It has firm tannins that need some time in the bottle or some aeration to soften a bit. The elements which make the 1996 so drinkable today are also there in the 2007. It’s simply loaded with fruit and spice flavors that are accented by the time spent in barrel. Just less than 10,000 cases were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $135. Ultimately, the 2007 has the hallmarks of a wine that promises to be an even more impressive effort than the 1996. The question after purchasing it is if you have patience. It’s very enjoyable now, particularly with full flavored foods. However if you give it 5 or 10 years of proper storage you’ll be rewarded with a slightly mellower, more resolved wine that will just knock your socks off. You really can’t go wrong either way, it depends which experience you prefer.

Tasting these wines and several others with food, over a leisurely evening made a couple of facts crystal clear. Most importantly if you haven’t had wines from the flagship Robert Mondavi Winery in Napa Valley for a while, it’s high time to revisit them. Their releases still showcase some of the best that Napa Valley has to offer. This was apparent both in widely available wines like the Chardonnay and Cabernet as well as small production items like the I Block Fume Blanc. The other point is that as much attention as the To Kalon Vineyard gets, it should probably get more. The wines that were sourced there show off a tremendous sense of place and are simply impressive efforts. Genevieve Janssens who has been making the wines at Robert Mondavi Winery since 1997 (she worked at Opus One previously) is doing an impressive job shepherding the philosophy of Mr. Mondavi into the future. The best way to thank her for that effort is to taste these wines.

Rodney Strong - 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon

Rodney Strong Vineyards in Sonoma County is a producer whose core releases you can find on the shelf of any decent wine shop in the United States. Many of their releases are ubiquitous in their availability. And that’s a good thing for wine consumers looking for solid go to wines that deliver consistent quality vintage after vintage. It also makes them a go to choice when you want to step things up and spend a few extra bucks on a bottle of wine for a particular occasion or to age gracefully in your cellar. With all that they do well, I believe the winemaking team at Rodney Strong Vineyards has a particularly deft hand when it comes to Cabernet Sauvignon. Today I’ll look at the current release of the reserve Cabernet from Alexander Valley. The Rodney Strong 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon was produced using fruit sourced in Alexander Valley. This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Select blocks of fruit from each vineyard were chosen. Fruit was hand picked and each lot was fermented and barreled separately. After approximately 6 months the best lots were chosen for blending. Once the blend was complete the wine was returned to barrel for approximately 14 months. In total the wine was barrel aged for 20 months in 100% French oak. This offering has a suggested retail price of $45.

Blackberry, cedar and vanilla bean aromas fill the nose of this Cabernet which simply explodes from the glass with brooding intensity. Cassis, blueberry and continued blackberry are all apparent throughout the powerful palate of this wine. Loads of spice notes show up as well. Dark, dusty baker’s chocolate, espresso bean and a earth notes are all part of the finish which has terrific length. This wine has firm gripping tannins and excellent acidity.

If you plan to enjoy this Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon from Rodney Strong Vineyards over the next couple of years I highly recommend decanting it for a couple of hours. That will allow it to open up and really spread its wings. If you have some patience you could lay this wine down for 5 or 6 years to let it really come in to it's own; it’ll drink even better in the 5 or so years after that. This is another fine example of the good work being done by the folks at Rodney Strong Vineyards.

Waterstone - 2006 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

There is so much Cabernet Sauvignon coming out of Napa Valley that it can be a bit dizzying. It’s hard, heck it’s practically impossible, to visit a winery in Napa without tasting Cabernet. They come in all shapes, sizes and price-points, so for me examples that over-deliver in their price-bracket are noteworthy. Today I’m looking at such an example from Waterstone. The Waterstone 2006 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon was produced using fruit sourced at a number of vineyards throughout Napa Valley. Hillside vineyards play a large role in the blend and fruit from Rutherford and Oakville dominate while Coombsville and Diamond Mountain also have their place. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (79%), this wine also contains Merlot (17%) and Cabernet Franc (4%).Barrel aging was accomplished over 22 months in French oak; 80% of the barrels were new. 8,900 cases of this offering were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $26.

Black currant, plum and vanilla bean aromas fill the powerful nose of this 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon. The palate of this Cab is layered and loaded with rich, dark berry fruit flavors. Blackberry, black cherry, and raspberry flavors all play a part. The avalanche of cherries continues through the lengthy finish which also shows off cedar, spice, earth, chocolate and espresso flavors. This wine has medium tannins that yield with some air and firm acidity.

This Cabernet will pair well with medium flavored foods; it’s also quite enjoyable on its own. For $26 this represents an excellent value in Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine has a depth of flavor and length of palate that is most often found in offerings that sell for $40 or more. With almost 9,000 cases produced it should be reasonably easy to locate as well.

Elements by Artesa - 2006 Red Wine / 2007 Merlot / 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

One of the things about larger wineries that have lots of acreage under vine is that are often more grapes to work with. This can of course be an advantage on several levels. Primarily it allows the winemaker a wider selection from which to pick fruit for their most important wines. It can sometimes also allow the winemakers to take on projects outside the core releases. Such is the case with Carneros producer Artesa Vineyards & Winery. Those familiar with them know that Pinot Noir and Chardonnay stand at the heart of their operation. These are the core wines they focus on. But with hundreds of acres under vine they have many other grapes to work with. One of their current projects is the Elements by Artesa sub-label which they use to release some different varieties at a consumer friendly price-point. I recently tasted through the Elements releases and today I’ll look at three of my favorites. First up is the Elements by Artesa 2006 Red Wine. This wine blends together fruit from Sonoma County (65%) and Napa Valley (35%). The fruit is made up of Cabernet Sauvignon (23%), Tempranillo (22%), Merlot (20%), Malbec (18%), Garnacha (11%), Petite Sirah (2%), Petit Verdot (2%), Graciano (1%), and Cabernet Franc (1%). Barrel aging was accomplished over 24 months in French oak. 4,400 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

Wild strawberry fills the welcoming nose of this 2006 red blend. Recurring wisps of candied cherry provide a nice aromatic counterbalance. The lithe, medium bodied palate shows off red and black fruits such as currant, blackberry and cherry. Vanilla and cherry cola flavors are both in evidence on the finish. This wine has some bright fruit elements but those are balanced by good acidity, structure and nice length. Ultimately this is a perfectly dry wine built to pair with food. Whether that means Sunday dinner or Tuesday night with a slice of pizza is your call, either way lots of flavor for the price point.

Next up is the Elements by Artesa 2007 Merlot. This wine was produced using fruit sourced in both Sonoma (64%) and Napa (36%). In addition to Merlot (75%), Cabernet Franc (12%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), Petite Sirah (1%), Petit Verdot (1%) and Syrah (1%) are also blended in. Each lot was fermented and barrel aged separately, the final blend was assembled prior to bottling. 3,000 cases of this release were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

Red raspberry and rose petal aromas are both prominent in the nose of this 2007 Merlot.  This Merlot shows a juicy, yet balanced mid-palate which is also slightly austere in some ways. Lots of red and black cherry are on display throughout, along with bits of rhubarb. The finish shows off leather, sour cherry and copious spice elements in the form of clove, nutmeg and pepper. This wine has excellent structure and good acidity. Sad as this is to say there’s not a lot of Merlot in the $20 price range that actually tastes like Merlot, this one does and that alone is an accomplishment. Overall this is a nice value.

Finally today is the Elements by Artesa 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon. Just like the other releases, this wine is made from a combination of fruit sourced in Sonoma (62%), and Napa (38%). In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (86%), Merlot (7%), Cabernet Franc (4%), Petite Verdot (2%), and Malbec (1%) are also blended in. Barrel aging was accomplished over 24 months in French oak; 25% of the barrels were new. 8,000 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

A compote of red fruit aromas fills the nose of this Cabernet. Cherry, raspberry and strawberry are at the forefront with wisps of vanilla providing some nice secondary aromas. The palate is loaded with continued elements of red fruits. Juicy cherry and strawberry star along with lots of spice characteristics. Both black and white pepper emerge on the finish along with earth and dust characteristics as well as tobacco and espresso flavors. This wine has supple, yielding tannins and sufficient acidity. For around $20 you’re going to get a very tasty Cabernet Sauvignon that is best suited for short term drinking.

This trio of wines from Elements by Artesa provides plenty of pleasurable drinking for the price point. Equally important, the Merlot and Cabernet are true to their varietals. The blend, as it should, combines attributes from a diverse array of fruits to create something unique.

Luigi Bosca - 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva

Cabernet Sauvignon is the varietal I was drinking most often when South American wines hit my radar years ago. Once I started drinking wines specifically from Argentina the quality of Cabernet available at modest price points was pretty staggering. Today our shelves have a host of offerings from Argentina all over the price and flavor map. One Producer I’ve been enjoying routinely over the last few years is Luigi Bosca. Today I’ll look at their current release of Cabernet Sauvignon. The Luigi Bosca 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva was produced from fruit sourced at El Paraiso Vineyard in Mendoza, Argentina. This vineyard sits more than 2,500 feet above sea level and the vines are 80 years old. This offering is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Fermentation took place in stainless steel at controlled tempratures. Aging occurred in a combination of French and American oak over 12 months. This selection has a suggested retail price of $20.99

The nose of this Cabernet Sauvignon is loaded with decadent, ripe, dark berry aromas. An undercurrent of cocoa plays a role as well. The palate is juicy with blackberry and fleshy dark plum both providing large parts of the flavor. Spice notes are in abundance as well with black pepper leading the charge there. This wine has a silky, velvety, pleasing finish that lingers for an impressive length of time. Tannins are firm but yielding and this wine has excellent structure and good acid.

For around $20 this represents an excellent value in Cabernet Sauvignon. If you drink Cabernet with a $35 or so price-tag from old world regions or even certain parts of California you’re likely to find that this wine blows away your expectations. This is another more than solid entry from Luigi Bosca.

Swanson Vineyards - 2009 Pinot Grigio / 2007 Oakville Merlot / 2007 Alexis Cabernet Sauvignon

Swanson Vineyards has been in Napa Valley since 1985. In that time they’ve built a stellar reputation for a number of things. They’re perhaps best known for their Merlot which has been a consistent winner on restaurant wine lists and store shelves. Their Salon in Oakville is home to quite simply the very best tasting experience in Napa Valley, bar none. They have an impressive and eclectic lineup of dessert wines that rivals anything offered in the state of California.  Quite frankly that only begins the list of attributes that makes Swanson a must for any California wine lover. Today I’ll take a look at three of their current releases. These offerings represent their widest distribution wines which are available across the country. First up is the Swanson 2009 Pinot Grigio. Fruit for this release was sourced at the home estate on the Oakville Crossroad and in Santa Barbara. This wine was cold fermented and aged in stainless steel.  6,250 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $21. The nose of this wine shows of hints of honey which lead to scores of lychee and passion fruit. The palate of this wine is impressively layered and complex for its category. Stone fruits dominate along with hints of orchard fruit and an underlying citrus component. These all lead into the unctuous finish which has hints of orange, vanilla bean, and spice. The finish is crisp and refreshing, inviting you back for more. There is a lot of unimpressive Pinot Grigio both in California and all over the world quite frankly. The Swanson Pinot Grigio however is cut from a different cloth. Year after year, vintage after vintage, it impresses and blows away its price point. Is it the best Pinot Grigio in California? Taste it and decide for yourself. No question though, it’s in the running.

Next up is the Swanson 2007 Oakville Merlot. This wine was produced using fruit from two vineyards; Oakville Cross Road Estate and Schmidt Ranch. Barrel aging was accomplished over 20 months in French and American oak. 40% of the barrels were new. 9,200 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $36. Aromas of violet, leather and black cherry are all prominent in the nose of this 2007 Merlot. Cherry flavors dominate the palate along with raspberry and a touch of blackberry. Espresso, earth, dark dusty baker’s chocolate and a wallop of minerals fill the long and persistent finish. This wine has solid acidity and impressive structure. If you drink this Merlot over the next couple of years I’d recommend decanting it for about 90 minutes. However if you have some patience I’ve found that the Swanson Merlots really develop quite nicely in the bottle. To my own taste I think they really hit another level about 6 years from the vintage date. In any case this release underscores the fact that Swanson makes one of the very best Merlots in Napa Valley regardless of price point. You can call it a Cabernet lover’s Merlot if you like or point out its Bordeaux influence; I choose to simply call it my favorite Merlot.

Finally we come to the Swanson 2007 Alexis Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine was produced from fruit entirely sourced at the Schmidt Ranch in Napa Valley. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (81%), some Merlot (19%) is also blended in. Barrel aging took place over 22 months in all French oak; 60% of them were new. 500 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $75. Alexis started life as a proprietary blend of mostly Cabernet with a generous dollop of Syrah and Merlot blended in. A few vintages back it shifted gears a bit and became a varietal Cabernet Sauvignon. Black cherry aromas are prominent in the nose of this wine. A hint of vanilla bean and a touch of eucalyptus are present as well. The palate is loaded with deep, dark berry fruit flavors. Cherry is prominent here as well, along with blackberry and black raspberry. Dark chocolate and hints of kirsch liqueur emerge in the finish along with oodles of earth that keeps coming and coming. The finish on this Cabernet Sauvignon is impressive to say the least. It has length and structure to spare. This wine is delicious now, but it’s really just a baby. If you’re patient and have proper storage conditions I would recommend laying it down for about 10 years and drinking it in the 5 or so years that follow. There’s a lot of very good Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa Valley. Alexis from Swanson is one of the very best in it’s price category. And while $75 may not be an everyday bottle for most, this is an excellent choice to tuck away for special occasions.

If you’ve waited until the last-minute, these wines from Swanson make for elegant and delicious gifts. However they’re far more than that. This is a dependable and impressive trio of wines that is consistent in quality year after year. They’re available all over the country and will offer lots of drinking pleasure. They’re also quite likely to impress your dinner quests or the lucky recipient if you buy them as gifts. I’ve been drinking the Swanson wines for over a decade and I’m always excited to revisit them whenever the opportunity arises. That’s something I can only say about a handful of producers.

Paul Dolan Vineyards - 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon

Last month I had the opportunity to spend some time in Mendocino. More than that, I was lucky enough to share a good chunk of time with Paul Dolan and other members of his team. Tasting wine is one thing, seeing the way an operation is run, literally from the ground up a whole other. What Paul Dolan is accomplishing in Mendocino both under his label and the Parducci brand is impressive to say the least. The dedication to Organics, sustainability and Biodynamics is admirable and incredibly genuine. Their pursuit of pure wines that express a sense of place is their drive. That they do so as shepherds of land they wish to leave in better condition than they found it is the icing on the cake, and then some. Today I’ll take a look at the most current release of Cabernet Sauvignon from Paul’s label. The Paul Dolan Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon was produced from Mendocino fruit that was certified Organic. Just about 70% of the fruit is from Paul’s Dark Horse Vineyards which is certified Biodynamic. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (93%), this wine includes small amounts of Syrah (4%), and Petite Sirah (3%). Oak aging occurred over 20 months in a range of American oak. 3,811 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $25.

The nose of this 2007 Cabernet is filled with a trio of aromas; red berry fruit, vanilla and earthy mushrooms each play a role. Both red and black cherry flavors play a strong role throughout the palate. These flavors are joined by significant spice elements such as black pepper and nutmeg. A strong earth component emerges in the finish along with a touch of dusty baker’s chocolate. This wine has excellent structure marked by firm gripping tannins and solid acidity.

This is another in the line of terrific wines from Paul Dolan Vineyards. As with the others it shows off loads of pure unadulterated fruit while showcases its Mendocino roots. If Paul’s name is on the bottle, don’t hesitate to part with your hard-earned money. His wines provide quality and value in spades. It's also an excellent example of the kind of Cabernet Sauvignon that can be produced in Mendocino for a reasonable price point.

Fontanella Family Winery - 2008 Chardonnay / 2008 Zinfandel / 2007 Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon

During a summer 2009 trip to Napa Valley a friend recommended Fontanella Family Winery to me. I stopped by and tasted their wines, which were impressive. You can read about my experience here. So with 2010 almost out it seemed like a good time to taste their current releases and see if I felt as strongly about these as I do the previous vintages. My impressions of them follow. First up is the Fontanella Family Winery 2008 Napa Valley Chardonnay. This wine which is all Chardonnay was produced using fruit from Mt Veeder (50%) and Carneros (50%). It was aged in French oak for 9 months; 30% of the barrels were new. It has a suggested retail price of $30. Note: The 2009 has recently been released; it’s a Mt. Veeder selection and also sells for $30.

The nose of this 2008 Chardonnay shows off orchard fruit, baker’s spices, and light hints of toasty oak. A host of fruit types are on display through the palate. Mango, nectarine, pear, apple and hints of peach are all in strong evidence. In truth it’s a very appealing potpourri of fruit flavors with a prominent vein of spices running through it. The stone fruits in evidence hang on through the lengthy finish along with continued spice such as nutmeg and white pepper. There’s a touch of unctuousness in the finish which is generally quite fresh and vibrant with racy acidity. This wine has terrific complexity and is clearly an example of Chardonnay that is enhanced by judicious use of oak.

Next up is the Fontanella Family Winery 2008 Zinfandel which was produced from fruit sourced in several prime Napa Valley Appellations; Mt Veeder and Oakville are the most prominent. This offering is 100% Zinfandel. Oak aging occurred over 11 months in American barrels. 442 cases of this release were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $36.

Right up front the nose opens with a burst of jam laden fruit. This is underscored by wisps of vanilla and bramble. Both blackberry and raspberry are prominent through the palate which is rich with layer after layer of sweet, appealing berry fruit flavors. Chocolate sauce leads the finish and really lingers right through persistently as the last note echoing on your taste buds. Along with it the fruit flavors and spice notes such as black pepper and a hint of plum pudding spice also join in. This is a Zinfandel that can easily be enjoyed either on its own or with a meal. It’s hefty and hearty but also quite well balanced and proportionate.

Finally we have the Fontanella Family Winery 2007 Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon. 100% of this fruit was sourced on Mt Veeder. 92% is Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% is Merlot. Barrel aging occurred over 20 months in French oak; 83% of the barrels were new. 650 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $50.

Eucalyptus, toast, and vanilla are the first aromas out of the chute. They’re followed immediately by a heady brew of dark leaning berry fruit. As with the Zinfandel this wine is loaded with layers of complexity that simply don’t stop. Most of the flavors lean towards dark fruits; plum, blackberry, boysenberry and quite prominently, black cherry to name a few. Chicory, dusty baker’s chocolate and hints of earth all emerge in the lengthy finish. This wine his firm tannins that yield with some air. If you’re going to drink this Cabernet now, I’d recommend a couple of hours in the decanter for maximum pleasure; however if you have some patience, lay it down for a few years and you’ll be rewarded with an even more beautiful wine.

The wines from Fontanella Family Winery are distinct and elegant. In their price points they represent fine values. The Cabernet Sauvignon in particular is an excellent deal. Terrific Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon isn’t cheap. With that in mind; this offering is actually a bit of a bargain. If you haven't had a chance to try the wines from Fontanella Family Winery yet, now is as good a time as any. Highly recommended.

Rodney Strong - 2007 Symmetry Red Meritage

Whether it’s a $10 bottle or a $75 bottle I’ve found that the wines Rodney Strong puts their name on represent solid or better values in just about every case. If you enjoy wines from Sonoma County they’re a producer you should be familiar with as they offer many go to options, for everyday drinking, as well as plenty of wines appropriate for special occasions or cellaring. Today I’ll look at their latest Meritage. The Rodney Strong 2007 Symmetry is a red Meritage wine. Fruit for this wine was sourced in Alexander Valley. This offering is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (85%), Malbec (10%), Merlot (3%), Cabernet Franc (1%) and Petit Verdot (1%). Aging occurred over 26 months in exclusively French oak barrels. This wine has a suggested retail price of $55.

Aromas of blackberry, black raspberry, toasty oak and a hint of pine are all present in the nose of this 2007 Meritage. Cassis and continued blackberry characteristics are apparent through the palate. The story these flavors tell is quite dark and brooding with impressive depth and layer after layer of juicy flavor. Plum pudding spice notes are in evidence midway through and carry to the finish which also shows off lots of dark sweet chocolate, espresso and hints of emerging earth. This wine has firm tannins and fine acidity. I tasted this wine over 3 consecutive days. Each time I went back to the open bottle it had undergone a continuing positive evolution. If you’re drinking it now, pair it with something substantial for best results.

Symmetry is delicious today, particularly if you decant it for a couple of hours, but time will only help this wine. I would recommend this 2007 release from Rodney Strong as something you might like to tuck a couple of bottles of away in your cellar. Then come back to them down the road apiece, perhaps 5 or 10 years and you’ll find you have an even more harmonious wine on your hands. In either case Symmetry is an excellent example of what can be achieved in Alexander Valley with Bordeaux varietals.

Forefront - 2008 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

In recent years Pine Ridge Winery has branched out. That expansion includes properties in Oregon and other parts of California. One of the most recent projects is Forefront, an offshoot of Pine Ridge Vineyards. What differentiates the Forefront Wines from the others in the portfolio is they’re not limiting themselves by regional boundaries. They’re sourcing fruit from various regions looking for the best growing conditions and area for the varietals in question. Today I’ll look at the current release of Cabernet Sauvignon. The Forefront 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon was produced using fruit sourced primarily in Napa Valley (84%), with the remaining 16% coming from Edna Valley and Lake County. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (78%), Merlot (11%), Syrah (5%), Petit Verdot (3%), Malbec (2%) and Cabernet Franc (1%) are blended in as well. Fermentation took place in temperature controlled tanks with pumpovers 2 to 3 times daily. Each varietal was aged in barrel for 12 to 16 months prior to blending and bottling. This wine has a suggested retail price of $24.

Aromas of black mission fig as well as both red and black cherry fill the nose of this 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon. Blackberry, raspberry and plum flavors are each prominent throughout the palate along with plenty of spice, particularly black pepper. Bittersweet cocoa, espresso and touches of toasty oak all emerge in the finish which has good length. This wine has firm acidity and drinks well on its own as well as alongside medium to full flavored foods.

If you buy this wine you’re going to get a solid example of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. It has plenty of appealing upfront fruit, more than sufficient structure and a solid finish. For a suggested retail of $24 (less is you shop around) this wine can be a nice everyday Cabernet Sauvignon for folks waiting for their higher end stuff to mature in the cellar. Additionally it’s a nice step up for those who routinely drink in the $12-15 window.

Dutcher Crossing - 2007 Charles F. Mathy Tribute Cabernet Sauvignon

Today I'm cross-posting my look at a new release Cabernet Sauvignon from Dutcher Crossing in Dry Creek Valley. This review also appears at Drink Dry Creek. It appears here in the format used there. My reason for this one time duplication is multi-faceted. Most importantly this is a special wine, made for a very good cause and it deserves as many eyes as possible. And secondly it's also serves as a gentle reminder to step over to my sister site Drink Dry Creek for lots of content about that great appellation.

 

The Facts:

Debra Mathy spent a great deal of time looking for the right Winery before ultimately purchasing Dutcher Crossing. She made most of that journey across states and continents with her Dad. Unfortunately he passed away after battling a long illness before Debra found Dutcher Crossing. However his guiding principles and the road they had traversed together helped her find the Winery she would purchase in 2007. In tribute to her dad Charles F. Mathy, Dutcher Crossing produces a wine each year in his honor. The proceeds from this release benefit Cancer research. The Dutcher Crossing 2007 Charles F. Mathy Tribute is a Cabernet Sauvignon. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon from Mountain Terraces Vineyard there is some Syrah from Atlas Peak and Merlot from Nelson Vineyard blended in as well. This wine was produced in limited quantities and sells for $39.

Gabe’s Take:

Aromas of deep, dark fruit such as plum, blackberry and currants are all present in the nose of this 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. Throughout the palate the theme of black fruits continues; layer after layer of dark, juicy flavors emerge. These are both intense and well proportioned, the hallmarks of great mountain fruit. Hints of pine and black pepper spice notes both play a role in the middle and carry forward. Pencil lead, bittersweet dark chocolate and earth in particular all emerge on the lengthy and impressively persistent finish. A host of mineral and spice notes play a throat tingling role on the close as well. This wine has firm, tightly wound tannins that yield with some air.

A few things stand out for me about this Cabernet Sauvignon. First and foremost is that it’s a distinct offering in the Dutcher Crossing Portfolio. More so than the other Cabernet’s they make this one is more classically styled with bigger, firmer, structure. This wine is pretty tasty now, particularly with some air and/or paired with something substantial. My recommendation would be to drink it with a nicely marbled steak right off of your grill. If you have the patience to lay it down this wine will improve in the bottle over the next decade and drink well for several years after that. So for a very reasonable $39 you can both get a terrific wine and help a worthwhile cause. You can’t ask for more than that. Order this through the Dutcher Crossing Website or buy it in their tasting room.

Cakebread Cellars - 2006 Dancing Bear Ranch

Cakebread Cellars has been in operation in Napa Valley since 1973. With vineyards spread over a host of appellations they have more than 450 acres under vine in a handful of prime Napa Valley locations. They started out making Chardonnay in their first vintage and that as well as Sauvignon Blanc remain amongst their best known offerings year after year. However their portfolio includes a growing stable of well made reds. That includes no less than 3 distinct Cabernet Sauvignons. Today I’ll look at their Bordeaux inspired blend from Howell Mountain. The Cakebread Cellars 2006 Dancing Bear Ranch was produced using fruit sourced at their estate vineyard on Howell Mountain. The Dancing Bear Ranch is comprised of 200 acres; just fewer than 30 are under vine. This vineyard was planted in 1999. This offering is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (79%), Merlot (17%), and Cabernet Franc (4%). This wine was fermented in stainless steel and barrel aging occurred in French oak over 26 months; 60% of the barrels were new. 2,500 cases of this selection were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $105.

The nose of this wine is a touch reticent at first. But as it gets some air, aromas of bramble, blackberry, thyme and vanilla emerge. Cherry flavors are prominent on the palate and they’re underscored by solid wallops of fig and dark berry flavors as well as a host of spices such as white and black pepper. All of these come together to form a pure burst of flavor that showcases the unadulterated intensity of mountain fruit. Pencil lead, espresso, earth and mineral notes all emerge on the lengthy, layered and rather impressive finish of this wine. This release has firm tannins and solid acidity.

I really like this estate blend from Cakebread Cellars, but it’s still in its infancy. Dancing Bear Ranch is a wine you’re going to want to lay down for maximum enjoyment. However if you’re going to drink it now, I’d recommend decanting it for a solid 5-6 hours as well as pairing it with hearty fare. I went back to this wine after it had been open for a full 24 hours and it was even more impressive than it had been on night one. But if you’re patient, lay this beauty down in your cellar for a decade or so and then pull it out for a special occasion over the following 6-8 years and you’ll be in for some serious gratification. Either way this is a well made wine showcasing it’s pedigree of serious Howell Mountain fruit. This is a terrific addition to the Cakebread line.

Stepping Stone by Cornerstone - 2009 Corallina Rosé / 2008 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Finding a wine producer I really like is heartening. Then when I see them replicating quality over a number of vintages it takes things to a new level. Cornerstone Cellars in Napa is such a producer. The Cabernet’s they produce are top shelf wines. Having had a chance to taste several recent vintages as well as a few with some age on them I’ve taken note, of the consistency of quality, their wines show off, balanced against vintage variation that helps display their sense of place. So it’s been particularly nice to see them launch Stepping Stone, the sister label to Cornerstone. The first wines I had from this label were impressive in their price point and I was eager to taste their new releases. Today I’ll look at two of those with a few more to follow in the next week or so. The Stepping Stone by Cornerstone 2009 Corallina Rosé was produced using fruit sourced at the Fore Family Vineyard in the Red Hills section of Lake County. This offering is a blend of Grenache (50%) and Syrah (50%). This wine underwent cold fermentation in stainless steel followed by oak aging in older puncheons. Just fewer than 200 cases of this offering were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $16.

This 2009 Rosé has a fresh and inviting nose that brings to mind a bowl of red summer fruits sitting in a bowl on a nearby windowsill. Cherry, strawberry and spice flavors all come out in force through the lively and bright palate. Baker’s spices emerge towards the back end and lead to the finish which shows off some red ruby grapefruit and crisp savory notes. A thump of vigorous white pepper closes things out. Acidity keeps things in check. More than anything this wine is summer in a glass. Pair this delicious, beautifully dry rosé with life itself.

The second wine is the Stepping Stone by Cornerstone 2008 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. It was produced using fruit sourced at vineyards in four distinct Napa regions; Oakville, Wooden Valley, Coombsville and Carneros. This selection is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 964 cases of this wine were bottled and it has a suggested retail price of $35.

Plum and blackberry aromas waft invitingly from the nose of this wine. Taking the first sips it’s clear this offering is a bit tight and needs some air to allow it to blossom. An hour or so in the decanter does the trick and after that it opens up more and more with each passing moment and every successive sip. This is a full bodied wine that shows lots of sweet berry fruit through the palate; blackberry is in particular evidence with black raspberry playing a secondary role. These flavors are joined by a veritable cornucopia of spices that emerge a little at a time and lead to the finish. Lot’s of dark bittersweet chocolate, sour cherry and wisps of pomegranate mark the lengthy and layered finish. This wine is full flavored, full bodied and impeccably balanced. At $35 this represents an excellent value in Napa Valley Cabernet when you consider its quality level. it's very tasty right now but a couple of years in the cellar will make it even lovelier.

Two Angels - 2007 Angel's Secret Merlot / 2007 Mayacamus Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

Most of what Bob Pepi touches turns to Gold. You can call that bias on my part if you like; I prefer to think of it as recognizing a master for what he is. Bob has a consistent track record of hands on winemaking and consulting the world over. He came to prominence with his family’s namesake wines; a company they later sold. Today he works on a host of different projects. One of them is Two Angels, essentially a private label of importer and distributor Quintessential Wines. I’ve been taken by some of their previous releases and today I'm going to look at two selections from the 2007 vintage. First is the Angel’s Secret 2007 Merlot. The fruit for this wine was sourced at vineyards located on the Mayacamus Mountains.  This range of mountains runs right between Sonoma and Napa Valley. In addition to Merlot (94%) there is a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon (6%) blended in as well. Barrel aging occurred over 20 in a combination of new, (40%) and used, (60%) French, (90%) and American (10%) oak. Just fewer than 800 cases of this Merlot were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $16.99.

Aromas of violet and cherry are underscored by a touch of thyme in the slightly austere nose of this 2007 Merlot. Dried fruit flavors rule the day throughout the gloriously dry palate of this wine; cherry, blueberry and wild strawberry are in strong evidence. A layer of spices led by cinnamon kicks in and leads the way to the finish. Earth, a drove of mineral notes and a hint of charcoal all emerge in the above average finish. This wine has medium tannins and solid acidity.

What I absolutely love about this Merlot is that it is made in what I consider to be the correct style for this grape. It has structure, acidity and length without sacrificing very enjoyable fruit flavors. This is a wine that excels when paired with food.

The second wine is the Two Angels 2007 Mayacamus Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon. As the name indicates the fruit for this wine was sourced near the top of the Mayacamus Mountains. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (78%), the offering also has a generous helping of Merlot (22%) blended in. Barrel aging was accomplished over 18 months; 85% in French oak (40% new). The rest was aged in new American barrels. Just over 1,500 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $27.99.

Brambly fruit, vanilla and cream aromas all emerge in the nose of this Cabernet Sauvignon. The palate features a bevy of sweet berry fruit flavors; cherry, raspberry (red and black), boysenberry and blackberry flavors are all in strong evidence. A touch of kirsch liqueur emerges and leads to the finish which shows off pomegranate, roasted coffee bean and pepper notes. This wine has lush tannins and more than sufficient acidity.

This Cabernet is absolutely terrific on its own but will also pair with full flavored foods.  Enjoy this wine over the next 3-5 years for best and most enjoyable results. The bottom line is that these selections represent two more outstanding wines from the hands of Bob Pepi.