Gabe's View


Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

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Syrah/Shiraz

Poggiotondo - 2011 Vermentino IGT / 2010 Rosso IGT

Italy is well represented on the shelves of good US wine shops. Whether you’re looking for a Barolo, Chianti Classico or Amarone you shouldn’t have any trouble finding what you’re in the mood for. Over time the availability of some varietals that are lesser know to us in America are increasing as are the number of blends that utilize both indigenous and international grapes. Here’s a look at a couple of current releases from Poggiotondo that fall into those categories. The Poggiotondo 2011 Vermentino IGT was produced from fruit sourced in the winery’s home region of Tuscany. This offering is 100% Vermentino. Fermentation took place in a combination of stainless steel (85%) and French oak (15%). Their estate which is over 123 acres has both vines and olive trees on it. After fermentation this wine saw two months of contact with the lees during aging. This wine has a suggested retail price of $20. Lemon zest, hazelnut and mango aromas are all prevalent on the nose of this Vermentino. Bartlett pear and yellow delicious apple flavors are on display throughout the palate along with hints of grapefruit. An impressive amount of minerality is in evidence throughout, particularly on the finish which has excellent length. The Poggiotondo Vermentino has lively acidity and nice structure; it's a pleasure to drink on its own but it’s truly made to pair with food. I enjoyed it alongside a roasted beet salad with goat cheese which worked perfectly. This wine is best served a couple of degrees warmer than the average white wine. That really allows it to open up and show its true charms.

The Poggiotondo 2010 Rosso IGT is a blend of Sangiovese (40%), Merlot (30%) and Syrah (30%). The fruit for this wine comes from their home estate in the north-western end of Tuscany. After hand harvesting the grapes underwent a pre-ferment and cold soak. Fermentation followed in stainless steel tanks followed by 8 months of aging. A final two months of time in bottle was allowed prior to release. This wine has a suggested retail price of $11. Red cherry, earth and hints of green herb are prominent on the nose of this Red Tuscan blend. Blueberry, raspberry and cherry flavors (black and red) emerge on the palate of this wine along with bits of leather. Cranberry, rhubarb as well as bits of smoke and spice are part of the finish which has good length. Firm zippy acidity helps make this a nice everyday food wine. This is a good selection for Pizza night or with grilled meats.

These wines from Poggiotondo represent good values for everyday consumption. They each show off good character and are fruit driven wines that will work particularly well with food. Both should be consumed over the next few years for maximum pleasure.

Jacob's Creek - 2010 Reserve Chardonnay / 2008 Reserve Shiraz

Jacob’s Creek is one of those Australian brands that is widely available on US shelves; so it’s likely their packaging and logo have some familiarity to wine lovers. Vintage to vintage they tend to release wines that showcase individual personality and the genuine variation expected in vineyard driven releases. Today I’ll look at two of their current wines. The Jacob’s Creek 2010 Reserve Chardonnay was produced from fruit sourced in the Adelaide Hills region ofAustralia. This widely available offering has a suggested retail price of $12.99 and often sells for closer to $10.

Green apple aromas are joined by emerging hints of spice and a splash of lemon zest on the nose of this Chardonnay. Granny Smith apple, Meyer lemon, stone fruits and bits of sage are all present throughout the palate which shows off a remarkably awesome purity of fruit for a Chardonnay under $20, let alone one that can often be had for around $10. The finish features continued apple characteristics and a blast of spices such as nutmeg and clove. This Chardonnay has excellent acidity and nice balance. It’s primed to enjoy with food.

The Jacob’s Creek 2008 Reserve Shiraz was produced using fruit from Barossa Valley. This nationally available wine has a suggested retail price of $12.99 and you can often find it for a couple of bucks less if you shop around.

Wild strawberry and Bing cherry aromas are prominent in this Shiraz from the first whiff. Hints of fennel slip in as well. The palate here, which is lush and layered, is studded with fruits such as red raspberry and cherry and dotted with blackberry, black plum, white pepper and cardamom. This Shiraz features an above average finish that shows off a continuing cacophony of red fruits as well as a significant mélange of spices. This is a very well balanced Shiraz that showcases rich fruit flavors as well as good balance and structure. It is a particularly nice value in its price category. While the Jacob’s Creek Barossa Shiraz is pretty tasty and engaging from the moment you pour it, 45 minutes or so of aeration really gives it a chance to open up and reveal all of its charms.

In addition to making food and budget friendly wines Jacob’s Creek has also launched a True Character program. It offers the possibility of winning $5,000 to put towards your passion or the charity of your choice. Please do head over to their Facebook page for all the pertinent details.

Fisheye Winery - 2011 Pinot Grigio / 2011 Shiraz

I’m regularly on the hunt for everyday wines. Certainly tasting and writing about wines in other categories is of interest as well. But when I taste something that’s bargain priced, which I can recommend, it hits a particular sweet spot for me. For a long time now our shelves have been loaded with low priced wines from Australia; some of them hit the spot, but a large number of them are indistinguishable from one another. Today I’ll look at two well priced Australian offerings that set themselves apart in a positive way. First up is the Fisheye Winery 2011 Pinot Grigio. The fruit for this offering was sourced in South Eastern Australia. 360,000 cases of this wine were produced. It’s available in 750 ml and 1.5 L bottles as well as 3 liter boxed wine Casks. They’re priced respectively at $7, $12 and $18. Ginger and peach aromas jump from the glass with conviction. Lychee fruit, apricots and continued peach characteristics are prominent throughout the palate. Lemon zest, white pepper and coriander emerge on the finish which has fair length. This Pinot Grigio is fresh, vibrant and loaded with flavorful bright fruits. This is a great choice as a party wine. It pairs well with light appetizers and also works nicely as a welcome wine or aperitif. The 3 Liter Box works out to about $4 a bottle. If for some reason your party guests don’t finish it these modern versions of boxed wine will drink well for 30 days after opening.

The Fisheye Winery 2011 Shiraz was also produced from fruit sourced in South Eastern Australia. 115,000 cases of this Shiraz were produced and it’s available nationally. It’s also available in 750ml ($7), 1.5L ($12) bottles and 3L ($18) bag in a box style casks. Black raspberry and blueberry aromas are joined by vanilla bean on the nose of this Shiraz. Black cherry, blackberry, clove and cinnamon flavors are all present throughout the palate. Copious amounts of juicy black and red plum appear on the finish which has a hint of Kirsch liqueur. This is a straight forward, fruity Shiraz that’s also proportionate and very food friendly. As with the Pinot Grigio I believe the 3L Box is a particularly good value for a party, or everyday drinking that won’t bust your budget.

When I taste wines made in large quantities, that are widely available and well priced I’m looking for particular attributes. First and foremost of course they should be enjoyable wines to quaff. They should also have a taste profile that promises wide appeal. These selections from Fisheye hit the mark in those areas. If you haven’t tried any of the newer versions of quality and eco-friendly boxed wines that have become readily available the last few years, the Fisheye wines are a fine place to start.

Gnarly Head - 2010 Authentic Red

Their Old Vine Zin remains the best known selection from Gnarly Head. But every now and again they expand their portfolio. The latest addition is Authentic Red and eventually it may well become the most popular of the Gnarly Head wines. Each of their selections is crafted with crowd appeal in mind. These are wines that are widely available throughout the country and well priced. Today I’ll see how Authentic Red stacks up. The Gnarly Head 2010 Authentic Red was produced using fruit sourced in Lodi California. This offering is a blend of Zinfandel (50%), Merlot (20%), Cabernet Sauvignon (17%), Petite Sirah (10%) and Syrah (3%). The fruit was hand picked and de-stemmed prior to being pressed. Fermentation took place over a nine day period. 25,000 cases of this wine were produced in 2010 and it has a suggested retail price of $11.99.

This blend leads with a big jam-laden nose that’s studded with dark and brooding fruit aromas as well as bits of eucalyptus and vanilla. Cherry and blackberry flavors are prominent throughout the palate as well as plenty of baker’s spices and black pepper. Sour Cherry and wisps of dark chocolate emerge on the finish which has good length for its category. Fine acidity keeps things in check.

What I like most about this wine is its balance. While it features bold, upfront fruits it maintains it’s heartiness through the palate and a more than reasonable finish. This wine is fruity and fun and just dying to be paired with food. It’ll work best when matched with something substantial and bold. The deep, rich stews of winter and slow cooked BBQ dishes immediately come to mind. There are a lot of options in the category of Red California Blends around $10. Authentic Red is one of the better ones out there. Some of the others can be over the top and sickly sweet. While this is a bold wine, it’s never goes too far and it’s a selection you won’t have trouble finishing a bottle of. It continues the Gnarly Head tradition of fun wines that are solid values which are also easy to find. If you're looking for an everyday or house red to purchase by the case, Authentic Red is a solid choice.

V. Sattui - 2008 Morisoli Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon / 2009 Napa Valley Syrah

V. Sattui Winery is a classic stop in Napa Valley. They offer a lively tasting room that features a wide array of wines made in many different styles. You'll also find that V. Sattui offers snack and deli items as well as a picnic area outside. Most importantly though, they have been steadily turning out a stream of terrific wines from a combination of their own sites as well as from fruit sourced at well regarded vineyards. Today I’ll take a look at one wine from each of those categories. The V. Sattui 2008 Morisoli Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon was produced using fruit sourced exclusively at this small famed Napa Valley Vineyard. This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. After fermentation it spent approximately 24 months in barrel. A limited number of cases were produced and this Cabernet Sauvignon has a suggested retail price of $65.

Red and black berry fruit aromas are prominent throughout the nose of this wine. Bits of toast and vanilla play a role here as well. Blackberry flavors are joined by hints of plum on the deeply layered palate of this wine. Espresso, minerals and dark cocoa are each part of a long, lusty, spicy finish that has excellent length and persistence. This wine is on the young side and will benefit from a couple of hours in a decanter if you’re going to drink it now. If you have some patience lay it down for 8-10 years and you’ll be rewarded with a truly beautiful expression of Napa Cabernet Sauvignon.

The V. Sattui 2009 Napa Valley Syrah was produced from fruit sourced at two estate vineyard sites (Carsi & Vittorio’s). These vineyards feature different soil types, climates and distinct locales within Napa. This offering is 100% Syrah. Fermentation took place in stainless steel followed by 18 months of barrel aging in a combination of new (40%) and seasoned (60%), French (20%) and American (20%) oak. Just fewer than 2,000 cases of this wine were produced and it sells for $34.

Dark almost brooding berry fruit aromas leap from the nose of this 2009 Syrah. Wisps of leather and eucalyptus are present here as well. The palate of this Syrah is big and mouth-filling with loads of dark lush fruit flavors on display. Blueberry, blackberry and plum are all prominent and accompanied by a host of spices. The finish shows of rhubarb, blackberry, black raspberry and sour cherry characteristics as well as earth, white pepper and dark, dusty chocolate. This is a meaty, chewy mouthful of wine that’s begging to be paired with bold, flavorful foods. Decant it for about an hour for best results.

Both of these wines from V.Sattui are impressive in their own right. These are two more releases in a growing string of vineyard driven offerings. They have a large portfolio of wines to taste at V.Sattui and both the Estate and single vineyard sourced offerings are well worth experiencing.

Primus by Veramonte - 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon / 2009 The Blend

Veramonte has been a consistent source of quality wines from Chile for over 10 years. The two wines in particular that have stood out to me over and over again for quite awhile are the Veramonte Sauvignon Blanc and the Primus Blend. Of late more selections have been added under the Primus umbrella. Today I’ll take a look at the brand new release Cabernet Sauvignon and the latest vintage of The Blend. The Primus 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon was produced using fruit grown in the Marchigue Vineyards in Colchagua Valley. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (92%) this wine also contains a small amount of Syrah (8%). After the fruit was picked the grapes under went two manual sorts to ensure careful bunch selection. Aging was accomplished over 15 months in French oak; 25% of the barrels were new. This wine has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

Aromas of plums, violets and black raspberries fill the nose of this 2009 Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon. A host of dark, brooding fruit flavors fills the palate of this wine. Blackberry, black currant and blueberry are of note. Hints of pencil lead creep in as well. The finish of this Cabernet, which has good length for the price point, shows off kirsch liqueur, sweet dark chocolate, black tea, and espresso notes. This wine has soft, supple tannins and firm acidity. This Cabernet is delicious both by itself and paired with things like roasted meats or hard cheeses.

The Primus 2008 “The Blend” was produced using fruit grown and sourced in Chile’s Colchagua Valley. This offering combines Cabernet Sauvignon (44%), Syrah (21%), Carmenère (19%) and Merlot (15%). Barrel aging was accomplished over 14 months in French oak; 25% of them were new. This wine has a suggested retail price of $19.99.

Red raspberry, bramble, green herb and hints of licorice are all part of the inviting nose on this 2008 blend. Strawberry and rhubarb characteristics along with a core of spices form the backbone of the tasty and multi-layered palate of this wine. Sour black fruit and continued herbs emerge on the finish. This wine has a lengthy close that’s smooth and lush with a bit of racy acidity punctuating it. This is an excellent food wine that would be particularly suited for southern Italian cuisine.

This was the first time I tried the Primus Cabernet Sauvignon and I was glad to see that it’s another well made wine in the Veramonte line that provides good varietal character and excellent value. The Primus Blend continues to impress. It’s been a consistent value year after year, offering lots of bang for the buck. The 2008 continues that trend. Check these wines out, you’ll be glad you did.

Stepping Stone by Cornerstone - 2010 Corallina Rosé

Cornerstone Cellars has been an impressive producer of excellent Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon for quite a few years now. Over the last few vintages they have also launched and expanded Stepping Stone a second label that focuses on wines aimed at everyday consumption. Today I’ll take a look at their current release of Rosé. The Stepping Stone by Cornerstone 2010 Corallina Rosé was produced from fruit sourced at the Mogambo Vineyard in the Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley. This wine is 100% Syrah. After slow, temperature controlled fermentation this wine was aged in neutral barrels. Less than 300 cases of this wine were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $18.

The color of this Rosé is immediately striking. Many new world examples of Rosé are a bit deeper and darker. This one from Stepping Stone has the perfect Salmon hue that comes to mind when I think of Rosé, which is often. Fleshy red fruit aromas burst out from the nose of this Syrah Rosé. The palate is loaded with red cherry fruit flavors as well as pepper spice, and red raspberry. Sweet wild strawberry flavors emerge on the finish along with continued cherry and raspberry characteristics. Nutmeg and white pepper spices chip in as well. This is a lovely dry Rosé loaded with juicy fruit flavors that give the impression of sweetness. Firm acidity keeps things well balanced and makes this a tremendous food wine.

This is a lovely example of Rosé from the folks at Stepping Stone. For $18 this wine is fairly priced and as mentioned it will pair extremely well with light summer foods as well as spicy cuisine. That said it drinks beautifully on it’s own.

Antinori Agricola Bramasole La Braccesca - 2006 Syrah Cortona DOC

Syrah is one of those varieties that belong to the world. What I mean is that it flourishes in quite a few places and the expression of it can be wildly different and yet quite valid. Syrah gown in California, France and Australia often has very little in common, flavor profile wise. Italy isn’t the first, or even the second place I think of when this grape comes to mind, but there are some pretty interesting examples of this varietal emerging from there. Today I’ll look at a release from Antinori, one of the classic Italian producers. The Antinori Agricola Bramasole La Braccesca 2006 Syrah Cortona DOC was produced using fruit sourced at La Braccesca estate vineyards. This offering is 100% Syrah. After fermentation it was aged in new barrique for 14 months followed by 12 months of bottle aging prior to release. This wine has a suggested retail price of around $44 but is currently on sale at WineChateau.com for just under $26.

Black cherry, blueberry, nutmeg, clove and allspice aromas are joined by hints of herbs on the nose of this 2006 Italian Syrah. A combination of fresh ripe fruit flavors intermingles with more prominent dry fruit characteristics throughout the palate of this wine. Blackberry and black raspberry flavors are particularly prominent along continuing cherry elements. Minerals, black tea, spice, smoked meats and rhubarb all emerge along with copious quantities of chocolate covered cherries on the velvety and persistent finish. This wine is balanced by firm acidity.

This is a nice Syrah that will pair well with a pretty wide array of foods. Full flavored dishes will be a particularly good match. That said this wine drinks well on its own. If you like Syrah, this is a good value and an interesting wine, give it a shot.

Tempra Tantrum - 2009 Tempranillo /Shiraz

Spain has quite a number of producers with lengthy histories as family wineries. One of those is the Osbornes. Rocio Osborne is a member of the 6th generation of that family in the wine business and he produces wines under the Tempra Tantrum label. The wines under this label are blends that use Tempranillo at their heart. Today I’ll look at a new release that blends it with Shiraz. The Tempra Tantrum 2009 Tempranillo/Shiraz was produced using fruit from the Osborne Family Estate in Malpica de Tajo. This is located approximately an hour from Madrid. This offering blends 60% Tempranillo and 40% Shiraz. Fermentation took place at cool temperatures followed by micro-oxygenation and minimal bottle aging. This offering has a suggested retail price of $11.99.

Aromas of dried red fruit and black pepper fill the nose of this 2009 Spanish blend. Cherry, blackberry and huckleberry flavors are all on display throughout the palate which is vibrant and full of flavor. Hints of smoked meat emerge on the finish along sour red fruits that have a bit of a savory edge. This wine is soft and lush with sufficient acidity.

This blend from Tempra Tantrum is made to be enjoyed in its youth. It’s a well priced wine that is suitable for large gatherings or casual evenings at home. It has the flavor profile to stand up to heartier foods, but is also proportionate enough to pair with medium flavored ones as well. For less than $12 this is an interesting blend which provides good value.

Oveja Negra - 2008 Lost Barrel

While I’ve been drinking Chilean wine for many years I feel reinvigorated to taste more and more of them lately. For several decades now we’ve been able to find lots of value in Chilean Wine on US shelves. But now we’re also seeing greater and greater numbers of wines in all price categories. Prices, styles and quality vary; but the bang for the buck is pretty constant across all tiers. Of course not every wine is great, but there are a lot out there to love. Today I’ll look at a Chilean blend from the Maule Valley. The Oveja Negra 2008 Lost Barrel was produced using fruit sourced in the Maule Valley of Chile; more specifically from the winery’s San Rafael Vineyard. This blend is a combination of Syrah (40%), Carignan (40%), Carménère (18%), and Petit Verdot (2%). The Carignan vines have 40 years of age on them. The wine was aged in French oak barrels for 12 months. It has a suggested retail price of $25.

Aromas of dark plum are joined by hints of eucalyptus and a touch of thyme to form a lovely nose. Cherry flavors with a just a touch of kirsch liqueur to them emerge in the palate. Additional characteristics take the form of dried fruits which show up in spades. Black tea also plays a role and leads towards the finish which shows off hints of smoked meat, dark chocolate and a touch of earth. This wine has yielding tannins and firm acidity.

What I love most about this red blend is how well it pairs with food. Quite frankly it’s a food lovers dream. The dried fruit characteristics and firm acidity, which form the backbone of its pairing ability, also put me slightly in the mind of good Chianti stylistically. The finish which is above average is another noteworthy aspect of this wine. Bottom line for me is that for $25 or a bit less if you shop around you’re getting an excellent value.

Stepping Stone by Cornerstone Cellars - 2008 Syrah / 2008 Cabernet Franc

Over the last few years I’ve had the opportunity to taste a number of releases from both Cornerstone Cellars and their sister label Stepping Stone. While the flagship label is focused with laser like precision on Cabernet Sauvignon, Stepping Stone has a host of varietals in its growing portfolio. Today I’ll look at two current release reds. The 2008 Stepping Stone by Cornerstone Cellars Napa Valley Syrah was produced from fruit sourced in the Carneros region of Napa Valley. In addition to the Syrah from the Truchard Vineyard (95%), a dollop of Grenache (5%) from Lake County was also blended in. A mere 153 cases of this offering were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $20.

Dark brooding fruit aromas fill the nose of this 2008 Syrah. Purple fruit flavors like plum, and dark fruits like blackberry fill the palate. They’re accompanied by copious amounts of spice such as white pepper and a hint of vanilla bean. Bacon fat emerges on the finish along with minerals and rhubarb. This Syrah shows off soft, yielding tannins and solid acidity. It drinks nicely on its own but excels when paired with flavorful foods.

The 2008 Stepping Stone by Cornerstone Cellars Napa Valley Cabernet Franc was produced using mostly fruit sourced in Carneros. In addition to Cabernet Franc (96%) from the Truchard Vineyard, a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon (4%) from the Ink Grade vineyard on Howell Mountain was blended in. Just over 600 cases of this offering were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $30.

Leather, cherry and red plum aromas explode from the nose of this 2008 Cabernet Franc. The palate is loaded with a cornucopia of fleshy dark fruit flavors. Blueberry and black cherry are both in strong evidence. Earth, espresso and minerals are each part of the finish along with chocolate notes that keep echoing after the last sip is swallowed. Excellent acidity makes this a fine companion to a host of food choices.

Both of these wines from Stepping Stone are fine values that do a nice job of showcasing varietal character. For my money there isn’t nearly enough stand alone Cabernet Franc out there, particularly in California. So finding a well made, reasonably priced one from a winery with an already impressive track record makes me smile, and reach for a second glass.

Casa Lapostolle - 2007 Cuvée Alexandre Syrah

The Casa Lapostolle 2007 Cuvée Alexandre Syrah is a single vineyard effort. All of the fruit for this offering was sourced at Las Kuras vineyard in the Cachapoal Valley of Chile. This vineyard is farmed using Organic and Biodynamic practices. The grapes were hand picked and hand sorted. Barrel aging occurred over 15 months in French oak; 65% of the barrels were new, 16% once used and 19% twice used. Just fewer than 3,400 cases of this offering were produced. It has a suggested retail price of $30. The first thing that stands out about this Syrah is the color, it’s as black as night. Violet, berry and smoked meat aromas are each prominent throughout the seductive nose of this Syrah. Flavors of blackberry, blueberry and dark plum are all present in droves throughout the rich, layered and full flavored palate. Both black and white pepper as well as pencil lead, minerals and chicory are each part of the palate along with earth and a final burst of chocolate sauce that lingers at the back of the throat for a nice long while.

This wine ultimately has more in common with its old world counterparts than most new World Syrah. That said though it does display plenty of powerful fruit both upfront and throughout to have some commonalities with its new world brethren. In any case this is a complex, well made wine that shows off how great Chilean Syrah can be when the grapes are grown with care in an appropriate spot, and treated properly once they’re picked. If you enjoy bold, balanced, complex Syrah here’s one to strongly consider.

Stepping Stone by Cornerstone - 2009 Corallina Rosé / 2008 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Finding a wine producer I really like is heartening. Then when I see them replicating quality over a number of vintages it takes things to a new level. Cornerstone Cellars in Napa is such a producer. The Cabernet’s they produce are top shelf wines. Having had a chance to taste several recent vintages as well as a few with some age on them I’ve taken note, of the consistency of quality, their wines show off, balanced against vintage variation that helps display their sense of place. So it’s been particularly nice to see them launch Stepping Stone, the sister label to Cornerstone. The first wines I had from this label were impressive in their price point and I was eager to taste their new releases. Today I’ll look at two of those with a few more to follow in the next week or so. The Stepping Stone by Cornerstone 2009 Corallina Rosé was produced using fruit sourced at the Fore Family Vineyard in the Red Hills section of Lake County. This offering is a blend of Grenache (50%) and Syrah (50%). This wine underwent cold fermentation in stainless steel followed by oak aging in older puncheons. Just fewer than 200 cases of this offering were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $16.

This 2009 Rosé has a fresh and inviting nose that brings to mind a bowl of red summer fruits sitting in a bowl on a nearby windowsill. Cherry, strawberry and spice flavors all come out in force through the lively and bright palate. Baker’s spices emerge towards the back end and lead to the finish which shows off some red ruby grapefruit and crisp savory notes. A thump of vigorous white pepper closes things out. Acidity keeps things in check. More than anything this wine is summer in a glass. Pair this delicious, beautifully dry rosé with life itself.

The second wine is the Stepping Stone by Cornerstone 2008 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. It was produced using fruit sourced at vineyards in four distinct Napa regions; Oakville, Wooden Valley, Coombsville and Carneros. This selection is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. 964 cases of this wine were bottled and it has a suggested retail price of $35.

Plum and blackberry aromas waft invitingly from the nose of this wine. Taking the first sips it’s clear this offering is a bit tight and needs some air to allow it to blossom. An hour or so in the decanter does the trick and after that it opens up more and more with each passing moment and every successive sip. This is a full bodied wine that shows lots of sweet berry fruit through the palate; blackberry is in particular evidence with black raspberry playing a secondary role. These flavors are joined by a veritable cornucopia of spices that emerge a little at a time and lead to the finish. Lot’s of dark bittersweet chocolate, sour cherry and wisps of pomegranate mark the lengthy and layered finish. This wine is full flavored, full bodied and impeccably balanced. At $35 this represents an excellent value in Napa Valley Cabernet when you consider its quality level. it's very tasty right now but a couple of years in the cellar will make it even lovelier.

Cono Sur - 2008 20 Barrels Syrah

Well priced Cabernet Sauvignon is what first turned me on to Chilean wines many years ago. After discovering the great values available in that category I began to explore others as well. Over the years the other red from Chile that has most often impressed me is Syrah. There are many well priced examples coming from Chile. Stylistically they take cues from both the old and new world. Today I’ll look at a limited release Syrah from Cono Sur. The Cono Sur 2008 20 Barrels Syrah was produced using fruit sourced in the Limarí Valley of Chile. In addition to Syrah this wine also has a small amount (less than 3%) of Cabernet Sauvignon blended in. Fruit was hand picked and fermentation occurred over 30 days in stainless steel tanks. Barrel aging followed over the next 16 months. This wine has modest alcohol content of 13.6%. It sells for right around $19.

The first thing that’s apparent about this 2008 Syrah is the deep, dark, inky, purple hue that springs from the glass with brooding intensity. The nose is loaded with brambly fruit, leather, dust, cigar box and an underlying wisp of thyme. Crushed cherry flavors with a velvety edge lead the palate which is intense and full flavored in its attack. Blackberries and copious spice notes follow. They all lead to an intense and layered finish which shows off chicory, tobacco, black pepper, earth, sour cherry and a hint of dark dusty baker’s chocolate. Fine acidity keeps things balanced.

This is a really nice Syrah that provides tons of varietal character and lots of bang for the buck. A perfect wine to pair with roast pork dishes such as Pernil or even BBQ. This one is worth the effort to seek out. Drink it over the next 2-4 years for maximum pleasure.

Tasting Shirvington Cabernet Sauvignon & Shiraz

I recently had the chance to taste wine, over dinner, with the Shirvingtons. The namesakes of this Australian Winery were in the United States for the first time in many years showing off their wines. Lucky for me they brought quite a treasure trove of goodies to share. Lynne and Paul Shirvington started down the wine road in 1995. Their aim was for a simpler existence as farmers, and thus they decided that growing grapes would provide the life they were looking for and the challenges they craved. Between 1996 and 2001 they purchases 3 parcels of land. Their vineyard manager Peter Bolte has been with them since 1997 and their winemaker Kim Jackson since 2004. Starting with the 2001 vintage they have made wines that have garnered significant attention and acclaim. I was quite curious to sample their wines as I had not previously done so. It’s generally instructive to do so with the folks responsible and the Shirvingtons were no exception. In addition to founders Peter and Lynne their son Mark was in attendance as well. Their pride in their wines was clear as was their hospitality and charm.

In total we tasted five vintages of Shiraz and four of Cabernet Sauvignon. The fruit was sourced from their own vineyards. So the first step in consistency is controlling their source. Of course there is plenty of vintage variation between them. Tasting the wines side by side was an eye opener into their winemaking style and their track record as a producer. So while there was plenty to differentiate the wines I was struck by the positive attributes they have in common. There is a trio of things that most impressed me about the Shirvington wines as a whole.

The first is the balance and restraint both the Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz showed across each of the vintages. While these are by no means small wines, their heft is quite reasonable. The flavors are mouth-filling, even a bit relentless in their attack at times, but never over the top. Despite alcohol levels well over 15% on almost every offering, not a single one belied any discernable heat. Considering all the disproportionate wine from the world over, that is certainly no small feat.

The second thing that made me really take notice in these wines is their persistence and duration of palate. From the first whiff of the expressive nose through what is an above average finish on each of them, they’re profiles are notably lengthy

Age ability is another other quality about the Shirvington wines that stands out above most others. These wine have the legs to last quite awhile. The oldest wines we tasted were from their second vintage, 2002 and the youngest from 2008. The oldest wines were amazing; particularly in how much fresh fruit they still showed. It would have been very difficult to pick up that the Shiraz was an 8 year old wine. It speaks really well to the small lot, terroir driven approach they employ to make their wines. The older Cabernet was also very good, but showed more of the hallmark signs of an offering with some age on it. It’s hard to say precisely how long these wines will go but at 8 years old now they surely have a couple years more left to go, at the very least. The younger wines which benefited from additional aeration over the course of the evening have the same overall structure and characteristics to indicate that they will have a similar shelf life; perhaps even more as the vines gain age and they learn more and more about them over time.

It’s important to note, as I referenced above, that while there are many qualitative similarities between these wines, the vintage rules they day. The Shirvingtons are keen about making wines that speak very specifically about their place of origin in McLaren Vale. And even that very specific spot has different things to say each year. Weather is of course a huge factor and there have been some vintages affected to different degrees by drought. The Shirvingtons are extremely committed to overall quality; in fact if the fruit isn’t up to their standard they simply won’t make the particular wine that year.

The proof is in the bottle. For me the bottom line is the wine, and it’s clear when it comes to that they’re making all the right decisions. These are world class examples of Australian Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon respectively. Current vintages have a suggested retail price of $66.99 (Shiraz) and $59.99 (Cabernet Sauvignon). Whether you pick some up to knock your friends out today or you want to lay down some wine for the next decade, the Shirvington offerings are selections you should strongly consider.

Jacob's Creek - 2001 Johann Shiraz / Cabernet Sauvignon

When it comes to Australian wine, Jacob’s Creek is amongst the ubiquitous names. Many of the wines in their “Classic” and “Reserve” tiers are widely available on US shelves. A bit harder to locate, are the “Heritage” line of wines. Today I’m going to look at one of the wines in that range. The Jacob’s Creek 2001 Johann Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon was produced using fruit sourced from a number of vineyard blocks. The varietal breakdown is 64% Shiraz and 36% Cabernet Sauvignon. The parcels were fermented and aged in oak separately. After 18 months In barrel the blend was created using the components they felt would best show off both the Shiraz and the Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is named after Johann Gramp, a Bavarian immigrant who planted the first commercial vineyard in the Barossa Valley. This wine most often sells for about $70.

Plum, blueberry and blackberry aromas fill the nose of this 2001 Australian blend. The palate of this wine is full flavored, layered and complex. Wave after wave of delicious dark berry fruit flavors are in evidence. That said this wine manages to retain balance and never go over the top. Vanilla, sour berry, white pepper and plum pudding spices emerge at mid-palate and continue through the impressive finish which also features copious mineral and white pepper notes. This wine has firm but yielding tannins and good acidity.

What I like best about this selection is the length of the finish coupled with the overall restraint the wine shows. While this offering, the benchmark wine of Jacob’s Creek, is full flavored it’s also impeccably balanced and structured. At nine years old now it still shows plenty of life. I expect this offering to drink well for the next 5-8 years. And while this will be a little harder to locate than their general release wines, the effort will be rewarded

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Michael David - 2007 6th Sense Syrah

For quite a number of years I’ve been fond of the Michael David Wines. When I see their labels or think of their offerings I’m reminded of wines that tend to be big, bold and widely available. The price points for the wines also tend to be reasonable. Today I’m going to look at their current release of Syrah. The Michael David 2007 6th Sense Syrah was produced using Lodi fruit. In addition to Syrah, some Petite Sirah is also blended in. Barrel aging was accomplished over 20 months in French oak. The suggested retail price for this selection is $16.

The 2007 vintage of 6th Sense Syrah opens with Black Mission Fig aromas, along with hints of leather, and wisps of vanilla. The palate is loaded with plum, blueberry, and a host of other dark, fleshy fruit notes. Chocolate, espresso, and burnt sugar characteristics mark the smooth, lingering finish of this Syrah. This wine has soft tannins and sufficient acidity.

This wine has been consistent from vintage to vintage. If anything I found the 2007 to be ever so slightly more restrained than recent vintages. It has better balance and a bit more structure to boot. Overall though, if you have liked this in the past you’re more than likely going to enjoy it now. If you’ve never had 6th Sense Syrah, it’s modest price point and wide availability make it a safe bet to reach for the next time you’re hosting or attending an event with wine lovers of all stripes. This wine is both a good value and an excellent example of Lodi fruit.

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Paul Dolan Vineyards - 2006 Deep Red

Over the last year or two I’ve had more and more wines from Mendocino County in California. And I have to say that I’m finding quite a few that I enjoy. So when the opportunity presents itself to taste one I haven’t had before I jump at the chance. Such was the case with this blend from Paul Dolan Vineyards. This Mendocino producer farms organically and biodynamically. Those two things also up the appeal for me. The 2006 Paul Dolan Vineyards Deep Red is made from 100% Estate fruit and entirely sourced at their Dark Horse Farms Vineyard. This offering is a blend of Syrah (56%), Petite Sirah (31%), and Grenache (12%). 770 cases of this vintage were produced and the suggested retail price is $45.

The color of this wine is immediately striking. Its hue is as black as night in the glass. Taking the first whiff dark fruit aromas such as plum and blueberry emerge and are immediately underscored by red fruit notes. The palate is layered with intense and intermingling fruit flavors. Both bright and dark flavors are prominent as the Syrah and Petite Sirah that dominate this blend tussle for control of your taste buds; black cherry, blackberry and raspberry are of particular note. Black pepper notes kick in mid-palate and lead to the finish which shows dark chocolate dipped raspberry, earth, minerals and espresso bean notes. That finish has very nice length. This wine is well balanced and has excellent acidity.

Despite alcohol clocking in at well over 15% this wine doesn’t drink hot in the least. I’m a sucker for Petite Sirah in general and the 31% in this offering makes it intense and brooding presence known. If you’re going to drink this wine over the next year or so I’d recommend decanting for at least an hour. If on the other hand you have patience, which I rarely do with Petite Sirah, feel free to cellar this for the next 5-8 years and watch it develop as the earthy characteristics take greater hold. This is a terrific wine.

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Hess Collection - 2006 19 Block Cuvée

hess 19 blockI’ve been fond of wines form Mount Veeder for many years now. But over the last year I’ve made a more concerted effort to try more of them. While I think a wide array of varietals shine up on Mt. Veeder the classic Bordeaux grapes are amongst those I feel stand out most often. Today I’m going to take a look at a selection from Hess Collection. They’re the largest winery on Mt Veeder by case production. Within their size though they do a wide variety of things; both small and large production wines are part of their portfolio. Their estate boasts 310 acres of vineyards which are sustainably farmed. Today I’ll look at one of their blends. The Hess Collection 2006 19 Block Cuvée is produced from estate fruit. The vineyard site the fruit was sourced from ranges in altitude from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. Fruit was selected from 19 blocks within the vineyard, thus the name of the wine. This selection is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (69%), Malbec (11%), Syrah (10%), Merlot (5%), Petit Verdot (3%) and Cabernet Franc (2%). Oak aging was accomplished over 18 months in French oak; 50% of the barrels were new. Just over 14,000 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $35.

Leather and cherry notes are prominent on the nose of this Mt. Veeder blend. A host of berry fruit, (particularly blackberry) along with spice, and cigar box are part of the palate. Somewhere around mind-palate, dark, rich unsweetened chocolate notes kick in. The finish is nice and lengthy with black pepper, mineral notes and cherry that keeps echoing. This wine has a firm tannic structure that softens with some air, as well as firm acidity.

This is a very well rounded wine. While this selction is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, the other varietals shine through and create a very cohesive blend that makes this offering a clear case of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts. Though this wine also includes Syrah, stylistically it drinks like a Napa Valley Bordeaux or Meritage style blend. For a suggested retail price of $35 this wine over delivers in spades. With over 14,000 cases made it should be easy to locate too.

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Dinner With Kim Longbottom & Renae Hirsch of Henry's Drive

Last week I had the opportunity to have dinner with Kim Longbottom and Renae Hirsch of Henry's Drive. This Padthaway Australia producer has a vast repertoire of wines; some appropriate for everyday drinking and others for special occasions, gift giving or cellaring. I'd met Renae last year (read that report here) and at the time she had only been on the job a short while. WithParsons_Flat_Bottle_big this followup meeting I was looking forward to learning how things had progressed for her at Henry's Drive. And of course I was also happy to be meeting proprietor Kim Longbottom. The first two wines we tasted were both Chardonnay based. First up was The Postmistress Blanc de Blanc. This sparkling wine is 100% Chardonnay and when it makes it to the US sometime in 2010 it will retail for $19.99. I found this to be a tasty lighter style of sparkling wine, one I'd consume with Brunch foods perhaps. The second wine was Morse Code Chardonnay. This is one of two varietal entries that will be part of the under $10 tier for Henry's Drive. It's fair to think of it and the Morse Code Shiraz as single varietal counterparts to the two Pillar Box wines. I really enjoyed the clean, fresh, fruit forward style of this 2009 Chardonnay. For a suggested retail of $8.99, this will make a solid choice for everyday drinking when it's released here in the next month or so.

Pillar Box Red is the first wine from Henry's Drive I became aware of several years back. I find that it's been a consistent offering in the value category and also a popular one. In speaking to Renae she indicated that a wine like Pillar Box Red which many people drink and are aware of is one of the selections she feels a bit more pressure in producing since it's had a longstanding reputation that preceded her becoming winemaker. No question to me that she's achieved her goal as the overall quality of this wine and its flavor profile have remained true to the course.

Two wines stood out as overall favorites for me. The Trial of John Montford was one. This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (90%) and Cabernet Franc (10%), leads with a big nose of leather, berry and vanilla. Cherry and earth are amongst the dominat notes through the palate and they lead to a lengthy and layered finish. This 2007 selection has a suggested retail price of $29.99. While I think it's quite tasty now, a few years in the cellar will really help it come together into an even nicer package.

The 2007 Dead Letter Office Shiraz was my other favorite of the evening. This selection blends Shiraz from McLaren Vale (67%) in with the Padthaway (33%) fruit. Of the higher end reds in the Henry's Drive portfolio this is the wine that evolved the most dramatically in the glass throughout the evening. The combination of fruit from two sources lends itself to creating a very balanced Shiraz with a multitude of layers. The suggested retail price on this wine is $26.99

In all we went through 10 selections. Beside the wines already mentioned we tasted Pillar Box Reserve, Henry's Drive Shiraz, Henry's Drive Reserve Shiraz, and the Parson's Flat Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon. In speaking with Kim throughout the evening it was clear that the goal is to create full flavored wines with balance. This is a goal that in my opinion they're reaching. Certainly I have my favorites as I indicated above, but the house style in general is one that I have an overall fondness for. This is an Australian producer I gladly recommend; regardless of your wine budget there are Henry's Drive offerings you can find room for.

One of the other pleasures of meeting Kim was getting to hear details I wasn't familiar with about their use of Postal Service terms, names and legends for their wines. Having a story is one thing, but when it's backed by historical fact and reality it adds something to the intrigue of a bottle of wine.

By all means if you have the unique opportunity to spend some time, and taste wine, with these charming ladies I highly recommend it. Some even say they're a couple of Saucy Aussies.

Imported by Quintessential Wines.

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