Gabe's View


Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

Valentin Bianchi - 2008 Elsa Chardonnay / 2008 Elsa Malbec / 2008 Elsa Cabernet Sauvignon

It’s good to have some go to things in life. When it comes to wine there are some producers that I look to for a variety of reasons. Sometimes it’s simply quality. Other times it’s value and availability. Valentin Bianchi from Argentina scores for me on all three counts and then some. They have several tiers of wine, all of which are interesting and fairly priced for what they provide. And their wines are available across the country in a wide variety of retailers. Today I’m going to look at three wines I enjoyed in their lowest priced tier. The Elsa wines are named after the wife of their founder, who is also the Grandmother of the current owners. The vineyards surround the house she lived in. First up is the Valentin Bianchi 2008 Elsa Chardonnay. This selection is produced using estate fruit from San Rafael Mendoza vineyards. In addition to Chardonnay (90%), Semillon (10%) is also blended in. During fermentation in stainless steel, French oak staves were used to add complexity. 2,000 cases of this wine were imported and the suggested retail price is $8.99.

Pineapple, Meyer lemon and white peach aromas burst forth from the evocative nose of this Chardonnay. Mango, guava and lots of golden delicious apple notes are all part of the fresh and appealing palate. Apple pie crust, lemon custard, vanilla and speckles of white pepper make up the medium length finish of this Chardonnay. Good acidity balances things out.

What I like about this Chardonnay is that it puts its best fruit forward. This is a fresh, lively wine meant to enjoy in its youth. While the small amount of oak used added some complexity it doesn’t detract from what is a very fruit driven offering.

The second wine is the Valentin Bianchi 2008 Elsa Malbec. Fruit for this offering was sourced at the same Estate vineyard in Mendoza as the Chardonnay. This selection is 100% Malbec. This wine saw minimal oak aging. 15,000 cases of this wine were imported and the suggested retail price is $8.99.

Plum, blueberry, vanilla and floral notes are all part of the slightly jam influenced nose of this Malbec. The palate also shows some jam fruit characteristics with red and black berry fruit intertwining. Black raspberry, blackberry and strawberry are of particular note. A layer of vanilla underpins these along with touches of orange peel. Kalamata olive, touches of smoke, and white pepper highlight the medium length finish. This Malbec has sufficient acidity.

Giving this wine 30 minutes of air really helps it open up and allows its flavors to pop. I like the consistency this wine has shown from vintage to vintage. This is a great starter Malbec and an affordable one for everyday drinking.

The last wine today is the Valentin Bianchi 2008 Elsa Cabernet Sauvignon. Fruit for this wine was also sourced at the Family’s original home vineyards. This selection is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine had minimal oak aging. 10,000 cases of this 2008 vintage were imported and the suggested retail price is $8.99.

Black fruit such as raspberry, blackberry and blueberry lead the nose of this wine along with hints of vanilla and cedar. Dark, juicy berry fruit tells the story of this wines mid-palate. Black pepper and additional vanilla emerges on the finish. This wine has nice structure and good acidity.

This 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon drinks well off the bat. That said, an hour of air really exposes all of its charms. This is a fruity, fresh Cabernet meant to be drunk in it’s youth. It’ll pair well with a burger and drinks nicely on its own too.

All three of these Elsa wines represent good values. While the suggested retail price is $8.99 you can certainly find them for less if you shop around. Each of these is a solid contender for everyday drinking. They’re also good bets to pick up a case of so you always have something affordable and dependable on hand.

Flying Fish - 2008 Riesling

Washington State is probably best known for Syrah. Many of those come from Walla Walla. Columbia Valley however emerged on the national scene first and there are quite a few varietals that thrive there. Merlot, Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon are the first that come to mind. Today I'll look at a Riesling from the Wahluke Wine Company. The 2oo8 Flying Fish Riesling was produced using fruit from three regions within Columbia Valley. This offering is 100% Riesling. It was Cold fermented for 28 days. The alcohol content for this wine is a modest 12%. Flying Fish Riesling was finished in screw cap. It most often sells for right around $12.

Stone and citrus fruit aromas burt forth from the nose of this wine. They're unerscored by hints of vanilla and emerging spice notes. Peach, mango, apricot, nectarine, and guava characteristics are all apparent throughout the full-flavored palate. Spice such as white pepper and nutmeg emerge more prominently on the finish which also features copious mineral notes. This wine has crisp acidity. It'll be a natural for lighter foods and spicy Asian and Indian cuisines.

I like the balance of this wine quite a bit. It has hints of sweetness and lots of fruit character, meanwhile it's held in check by good acidity. The crisp, clean finish is also noteworthy, welcome and appealing. When you finish a sip, you're immediately going to want another. A very tasty selection and a fair value.

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Stoneleigh - 2008 Marlborough Pinot Noir

New Zealand and Pinot Noir are starting to become synonymous to wine lovers. That’s a good thing because there are a lot of lovely examples coming out of this country. For a long time their Pinot’s were second to their Sauvignon Blancs on our store shelves and in our minds. And while Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is still certainly a major player, the varietal itself (delicious as it can be) doesn’t inspire quite the same sort of passion that Pinot Noir does. Today I’ll look at an example from Stoneleigh. The Stoneleigh 2008 Marlborough Pinot Noir was produced using fruit sourced in the Rapaura area which is in the north. This offering is 100% Pinot Noir. Fermentation was achieved in a combination of open-top and closed-top fermenters Barrel aging was accomplished over a six month period in French oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is $16.

Baker’s spice notes and fresh black cherry waft convincingly from the nose of this Pinot Noir. Throughout the palate red and black cherry notes dominate, these are joined by rhubarb, raspberry and wild strawberry to form a gentle but full flavored presentation of flavor. Black tea notes lead the finish along with light cocoa, earth, cherry cola, earth and hints of nutmeg and white pepper. This wine is very well balanced and has excellent acidity.

For $16 (less if you shop around), this New Zealand Pinot Noir provides a lot of value and loads of flavor. It’s made in a style that is very true to this great varietal. It’ll pair well with food but is equally enjoyable on its own. Highly recommended.

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Bordeaux Matchmaking at Cipriani

This is a guest column. I was unable to attend this event. thankfully a friend of mine did make it and he wrote this account which I'm sharing here at Gabe's View. I look forward to attending a future event of theirs as this sounds like a lot of  fun. I hope you enjoy reading it.

-Gabe-

I stood outside of Cipriani on Wall Street waiting for my party companion. They had set up a tent in front of the entrance lined with tables, and women sitting about 3 feet from each other with lists of guests in alphabetical order.

Another woman stood at the entrance to the tent greeting older men wearing impeccably tailored tuxedos and the women in ball gowns who accompanied them. I was there for the Bordeaux Matchmaking event – an event organized with the intention of reintroducing Bordeaux wines to America as a more casual, affordable wine. Two thoughts came to mind as I watched a group of men emerge from a black Bentley – 1) I’m grossly underdressed, and 2) this crowd isn’t doing anything to positively help the bold, expensive, and unattainable image of Bordeaux wines that we’ve grown to know.

I came to find out that I was standing about 15 feet from where I should have been. Cipriani is a large restaurant with many entrances, and apparently plenty of room for more than one event. The educational wine tasting I came for turned out to be more of a dance party with plenty of great food, attractive and hip 20 – 30 somethings dancing, laughing, and of course tipping back their glasses of delicious and affordable Bordeaux wines. And by the time the saxophonist joined the DJ school was out, and Bordeaux dance party was in full swing. If this sounds atypical of a wine tasting, it is. The purpose of the event is to show that Bordeaux wines can and should be enjoyed casually is a hip, party atmosphere. The event certainly achieved this. Plus, the wines are quite good.

Among those I tasted were a Chateau de Fonbel – a red in dark, vibrant purple from the Right Bank of the region. It has hints of black currant, cassis, and according to the info on the table pencil shavings. I also tried a white, citrusy Mouton Cadet – very similar to a sauvignon blanc in its’ dryness, but also subtly sweet, a dark and bold Chateau La Bonnelle, and a sweet white from Chateau Lupiac. I detected a hint of horseradish in the nose, and again in the first couple of sips. The flavor eventually mellowed into a soft, subtle white which according to Mollie Battenhouse, wine director and advanced sommelier at Maslow 6 wine shop in Manhattan goes quite well with foie gras – a combination I will be sure to try. Battenhouse is also on EnjoyBordeaux.com as part of their Le Wine Buff video chats. All of the bottles featured were under the $35 price point – a number most people should be comfortable paying for what I found is extraordinarily great wine.

By 10:30 the wine was nearly gone, and the table hosts began packing up their stations. The party was hardly over, though as the music got louder and the crowd – at least the ones not dancing began to flock towards the bar. I took what was left in my glass and walked out onto the terrace, and gazed out the window watching the black town cars, limos, Mercedes, and Rolls Royce’s arrive in anticipation of what I came to learn was Platts Global Energy Awards dinner letting out. With my head slightly tipsy from the wines, and my stomach generously coated with the delicious hors d’oeuvres I couldn’t help but think how lucky I was to have been at this party rather than the other one.

Could they have had nearly as much fun as I did? Doubtful. I only wished I had the means to attend the remaining two events in Chicago & Miami. And with that I went back inside – this night was just beginning.

Château Larose-Trintaudon - 2004 Haut-Médoc

A lot of people I know drink New World Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with great regularity. When it comes to Old World examples many friends I know seem a bit timid. There is definitely a perception out there that French and Italian wines specifically are very expensive. And while there are certainly lots of well regarded and highly priced wines out there, both countries features many excellent wines that are affordable to wide audiences for everyday drinking. Today I’ll look at such a wine from Bordeaux. The Château Larose-Trintaudon Haut-Médoc 2004 is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot (40%). Barrel aging occurred in 100% French oak.  The suggested retail price for this wine is $17.95

Dark fruit aromas are the embodiment of this Bordeaux’s nose. These are joined by wisps of smoked meat and some toasty oak notes. Cherry leads the palate which features a persistent core of dried fruit notes. Cranberry and plum feature in notably as well. These dark, dry fruit characteristics are underscored by hints of licorice that lead to the finish. Espresso, loads of earth and black pepper notes are the most outstanding characteristics of the notable finish. This wine has firm tannins and excellent acidity.

This Bordeaux Blend from Château Larose-Trintaudon is a very nice value and a terrific wine. If you drink New World Cabernet or Merlot in the $20 price range you’re likely to find that this wine will compare favorably in quality and enjoyment. Shrewd shoppers will find that this wine is most often available right around $15. If you haven’t made the leap to the Old World yet, here’s a fine place to start.

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Clarendelle - 2006 White Bordeaux

Wines from Europe are often intimidating to the average US consumer. Sometimes it’s due to perceived cost concerns, other times it’s due to confusion over labeling. The truth is that there are a lot of great wines from all over Europe that are very reasonably priced and offer similar quality to price ratios as new world counterparts do. Today I’m going to look at a white wine from the Bordeaux region of France. This 2006 Clarendelle Blanc Bordeaux is a blend of Sémillon (46%) Sauvignon Blanc (44%), and Muscadelle (10%). The suggested retail price for this wine is $19.95.

Aromas of lemon zest and orange blossom are both prominent in the nose of this wine. Citrus continues through the palate. It's joined by tropical fruit such as mango, guava and kiwi. Honeydew emerges as well and carries through the finish which has a nice edge of creaminess and a host of appealing spice notes, notably white pepper. This wine is impeccably balanced and features good acidity. I paired this White Bordeaux with a crostini topped with caramelized onions, sautéed mushrooms and a triple creme cows milk cheese. It was a tremendously satisfying match. This wine also drinks nicely on its own.

Two things most impress me about this wine. The level of complexity in the price range is one thing. Layers of flavor emerge as you let this wine wash over you. It’s important to note that while this wine should definitely be chilled, avoid over chilling it. Many of the nuances are lost if this is served too cold. Cellar temperature of approximately 55 degrees works very well. The other thing that impressed me is how seamless of a blend this really is. Certainly benchmark qualities of each varietal shine through, but more than that they come together to form a whole that is greater than the sum of its parts. A very nice White Bordeaux and a very well priced one at that. If you’re drinking new world Sauvignon Blanc or similar style blends try the Clarendelle out, you might be surprised by what a terrific value it is.

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Introducing the Sierra de Viento Wines from Bodegas San Valero

A couple of days ago I attended a luncheon where the Sierra de Viento wines were poured. This luncheon acted as an introduction of these wines to the US market. These wines have been produced by Bodegas San Valero. This wine Cooperative in the Aragon region of Spain was founded in 1944. After a short, early period of focus on bulk wines they have been dedicated to quality for many years. Their cooperative is composed of 700 members who together control 3,500 hectares of vineyard land.  The two main wines that were being introduced were a Tempranillo and Garancha. More on them in a moment. But first a few words about some wines we got to taste that were not specifically being introduced that day. First up we tasted a Cava alongside appetizers. This Sparkling Wine was lovely and dry with hazelnut, biscuit and hints of cream on the finish. A perfect example for the argument that Sparkling Wine should regularly be consumed with meals. It's said to retail for around $9. A second Garnacha we tasted was a limited bottling that will see US shelves in a couple of months. I hope to have a detailed review of it closer to release. My first impression is that it was an intense expression of Old Vine Garancha. I believe somewhere in the neighborhood of 1,000 cases of it were produced and it's going to retail for around $30. Dessert was served with a Moscatel. This Dessert wine did an excellent job of providing balance. It was sweet for sure, but only modestly so. It paired well with sweets and was a nice ending to the meal. It was the type of dessert wine you could conceivably sip for a while. In addition to being moderate in sweetness it was also modest in alcohol. Those were the "other" wines. The stars of the show so to speak were a Tempranillo and a Garancha, 

First up was the Sierra de Viento 2008 Tempranillo. Fruit for this wine was sourced in Cariñena. It is 100% Tempranillo. This wine will retail for just under $10. What struck me most about this wine was the incredible freshness of its fruit. Ripe red berry flavors abounded and were quite appealing. The wine was balanced and had a nice finish with a hint of sour cherry. It was served with a bit of a chill on it as one would for Beaujolais or some Chianti. It worked for this wine which was a terrific match for food. 

 The second of the featured wines was the Sierra de Viento 2007 Old Vine Garnacha. Fruit for this wine was sourced from vineyards in Cariñena over 30 years old. This offering is 100% Garnacha. It was aged in French and American oak for 8 months. This wine will retail for just over $10. Where the flavors on the Tempranillo leaned towards fresh fruit those for the Old Vine Garnacha had a more intense, dried fruit characteristic. It also had loads of spice notes and lengthy finish. This wine paired beautifully with hangar steak and pork loin. In general it will match with heartier flavors than the Tempranillo. 

Both of these new Sierra de Viento releases from Bodegas San Valero represent excellent values. Approximately 40,000 cases of each was produced and once they hit US shelves they will hopefully be easy to find. I for one know that I'll be looking for them. These wines were developed with the US market in mind. I imagine they'll find quite an audience here. The Tempranillo is a departure from the flavors many consumers are used to with similarly priced wines from the Rioja region. It's fruitier and fresher where Rioja tends towards more oak laden, longer aged wines. The Garnacha is intense but not overly so and not burdened with tremendous alcohol content as some well known examples are. I look forward to these as well as the Cava, Moscatel and small production Garancha reaching our shelves. Keep your eyes open for them; you can thank me later. 

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Davis Bynum - 2007 Russian River Chardonnay / 2007 Russian River Pinot Noir

In 2007, in addition to increasing the Rodney Strong portfolio of wines under their Estate name, proprietor Tom Klein added longtime Sonoma County Winery Davis Bynum to the lineup. The history of Davis Bynum dates back to 1973. The goal then as now is to focus on Russian River Valley fruit. Today I’ll look at two of the current release Davis Bynum wines. These wines represent the first Davis Bynum releases under winemaker Gary Patzwald who was already working on some small production Rodney Strong wines. First up is the Davis Bynum 2007 Russian River Valley Chardonnay. The fruit for this wine is composed of four Chardonnay clones. This offering is 100% varietal and all Russian River Valley fruit. 75% of the wine went through malolactic. Barrel aging was accomplished over 11 months in French oak. 6,000 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $25.

Apple, spice and hints of toast waft gently from the nose of this 2007 Chardonnay. The palate features an explosive burst of pure fruit. Apple, pear, pineapple, mango and more arrive in wave after wave of lush, mouth filling flavor. Spices, mineral notes and hint of burnt caramel emerge on the lengthy finish. This wine has excellent acidity and will pair will pair well with creamy dishes, roast chicken and soft cheeses.

The second wine is the Davis Bynum 2007 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Fruit from five clones was used in crafting this wine. This offering is 100% Pinot Noir and all Russian River Valley fruit. Barrel aging occurred over 11 months in French oak. 6,500 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $35.

Black cherry, wild strawberry and vanilla cream aromas emerge prominently from the nose of this 2007 Pinot Noir. Hints of raspberry along with mushroom and continued cherry and strawberry make up the balanced palate of this wine. The finish on this wine is lengthy and smooth with gently gripping tannins and excellent acidity. As with most well made, well balanced Pinot Noir, this wine will pair beautifully with a wide array of foods.

It had been several years since I’d had any wines from Davis Bynum. For a period of time they’d been a regular Russian River stop for me. For no reason in particular they fell off of my radar a bit at some point. So I was curious and eager to see what the Davis Bynum wines tasted like today. Particularly since the winery is in a second life cycle now under the Rodney Strong umbrella. I’m happy to report that these are quality wines that do a nice job showcasing lots of fruit and varietal character. Each is also a fine example of what these Burgundian grapes can achieve in Russian River Valley. Too often, in California especially, Pinot & Chardonnay are overwhelmed with oak. Both of these offerings have their fair share of oak on them but thankfully in these wines it enhances the fruit as it should. With 6,000 or so cases of each, these selections won’t be difficult to fine. If you like Russian River Chardonnay and/or Pinot Noir, here are a couple of solid bets to consider.

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Rodney Strong Vineyards - 2006 Brothers Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon / 2006 Rockaway Cabernet Sauvignon

Last year Rodney Strong Vineyards added a new wine to their line. In addition to the County wines, Reserve wine etc. they added the Rockaway Cabernet Sauvignon. This was a single vineyard effort and was made in a smaller production than the vast majority of their other releases. This year they added a second release in this category. Today I’ll cover both of the current releases of these single vineyard Cabernets. First up is the Rodney Strong Vineyards 2006 Brothers Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon. This selection is made entirely from fruit sourced at the Brothers Ridge Vineyard in Alexander Valley. This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel aging was accomplished over 22 months in French oak; 42% of the barrels were new. The suggested retail price for this wine is $75.

Vanilla, cedar, blackberry and leather are all prominent in the nose of this 2006 Cabernet. The rich, ripe and structured palate of this wine features relentless and powerful layers of intense dark fruit. Continued blackberry and dark plum are right up front throughout. Sweet dark chocolate, as well as persistent and lingering mineral notes lead the finish along with earth notes in spades. The alcohol for this wine clocks in over 15%. Despite that it doesn’t drink hot at all and retains good balance, marked by excellent acidity.

The second wine is the Rodney Strong Vineyards 2006 Rockaway Cabernet Sauvignon. The fruit for this wine was sourced at the Rockaway vineyard which was planted in 1994. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (97%), small amounts of Malbec (2%) and Petit Verdot (1%) were blended in. Barrel aging was accomplished over 22 months in French oak; 47% of them were new. The suggested retail price for this wine is $75.

Black raspberry, plum and wisps of vanilla are all apparent on the nose of the 2006 Rockaway Cabernet Sauvignon. The palate of this wine is big and beefy with alternating red and dark fruit characteristics. Licorice, graphite, earth, hints of espresso and dark, dusty chocolate are all part of the lengthy finish. This wine has firm tannins and solid acidity.

I like each of these Cabernets a lot. They’re excellent and distinct expressions of specific vineyards in 2006. Both are tasty now and each will also benefit with a bit of additional bottle age. The Brothers Ridge is the more immediately accessible today with about an hour in the decanter really opening it up. The Rockaway is tighter right now and needs closer to 2 hours to really express itself. These wines are best enjoyed with substantial foods.

Considered alongside their portfolio as a whole these wines also add another dimension of complexity to the Rodney Strong family of offerings. They’re a huge Sonoma producer and it’s good to see them also spreading some of their focus to a couple of small production offerings. Here’s hoping this program gets expanded in the future to include other small production, single vineyard offerings, whether its additional Cabernet or some other varietals.

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Rodney Strong Vineyards - 2007 Chalk Hill Chardonnay / 2006 Alexander Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

Sonoma County’s Rodney Strong Vineyards is one of the wineries I’ve gone back to time and again for a look at current releases. In addition to being a consistent producer at a wide-ranging number of tiers, they’re wines are also extensively available throughout the country. My next few posts will look at six wines in their portfolio that I recently tasted and enjoyed. In addition to wines under the Rodney Strong Vineyards name I’ll also look at a few releases from one of their other labels. Today I’ll cover one of their Chardonnays and a Cabernet Sauvignon. First up is the Rodney Strong Vineyards 2007 Chalk Hill Chardonnay. This selection is produced using  fruit sourced from Chalk Hill. This wine is 100% Chardonnay. 97% of it underwent malolactic and was aged in French oak for 9 months.  The suggested retail price for this offering is $20.

Intermingling fruit aromas, particularly pear and apple burst from the nose of this Chardonnay along with vanilla and toasty oak notes. The orchard fruit theme continues throughout the palate where Macintosh apple and Asian pear notes are prominent and layered along with hints of crème fraîche, pie crust, and baker’s spices. This solid core of persistent fruit leads to a nice finish that shows off a flourish of lemon custard, wisps of smoke and a final echo of crème brûlée

The Chalk Hill Chardonnay does a nice job straddling the oak line. It has added complexity and spice characteristics that have been imparted from its time in barrel. Importantly though the oak never detracts from the fresh and lively fruit. This is a very solid Chardonnay in its price category, and a consistent one from vintage to vintage too.

The second wine I’m recommending today is the Rodney Strong Vineyards 2006 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is made from estate fruit. In addition to Cabernet Sauvignon (92%), Merlot (6%), and Petite Verdot (2%) are also blended in. Barrel aging was accomplished over 21 months in a combination of French and American oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is $25.

Black cherry, plum and hints of ash waft with conviction from the nose of this 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon. A back and forth tussle for your taste buds between red and black fruits occur throughout the rich and persistent palate. Dried cranberry, blackberry and continued plum notes are the most prominent. These lead to a lingering finished most notably marked by tobacco, earth, leather and a rich vein of mineral notes. A hit of sour cherry provides a final, memorable reference point. This wine has yielding tannins and good acidity.

For $25 (less if you shop wisely) this Cabernet Sauvignon provides good varietal and regional character. It’s also a fine wine to drink while your reserve Cabernets are gaining some bottle age. Much like the Chardonnay above this wine has been a consistent performer from vintage to vintage.

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Helfrich - 2007 Riesling / 2007 Pinot Gris

Some areas of the wine world bring certain varietals to mind immediately. When it comes to Alsace there is more than one that springs to mind instantly. Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris are the first three I think of. Thankfully, it seems that more quality examples of these varietals from several regions of the world, Alsace included, are landing on US shelves every year. Six generations of the Helfrich family have been making wines in Alsace. Today I’ll take a look at a couple of current releases from Helfrich, Riesling and Pinot Gris. First up is the Helfrich 2007 Riesling. This offering is made entirely from Alsatian fruit and is composed of 100% Riesling. Fermentation took place in stainless steel. This selection was finished in screw cap and the suggested retail price is $14.99.

The lovely aromatics of this wine are led by lemon zest and orchard fruit notes. White cling peach is particularly prominent and provides a very appealing quality. Throughout the full and lush palate a rich mouth feel takes hold and shows off hints of ginger as well as apple, pear and continued peach notes. A lovely mineral component leads the finish which is above average in length. Spice notes emerge as well. Everything comes together in a crisp, dry and clean fashion, leaving you wanting another sip

The highlights of this wine for me are the strong aromatics out of the gate and the mineral notes on the finish. Combined with an ever so tiny hint of sweetness, both elements help form a tasty offering that is a good example of Riesling and a nice value to boot.

The second wine is the Helfrich 2007 Pinot Gris. This selection is also made from 100% Alsatian fruit. This wine is composed entirely of Pinot Gris. Fermentation occurred in stainless steel. This Pinot Gris was finished in screw cap and the suggested retail price is $14.99.

Aromas of honey, hazelnut, lychee, Anjou pear and golden delicious apple are all present in the bright, forward nose of this 2007 Pinot Gris. The palate of this offering is rich and full flavored. Sweet, ripe fruit flavors abound; apple nectar is particularly striking. Spice notes really kick in around mid-palate and continue through the finish with nutmeg, white pepper and hints of smoke standing as the most forward of these. As with the Riesling the finish is also above average in length. Solid acidity balances the inherent sweetness of this wine and keeps things in check.

I love this Pinot Gris for its versatility. Whether served as a welcome wine, with appetizers or accompanying your main meal this 2006 Pinot Gris will work nicely. Roast pork tender loin with apple compote would be a perfect match.

Both of these releases from Helfrich represent good examples of their respective varietals at fair prices. These are well worth tasting.

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Lucas & Lewellen Vineyards - 2007 Santa Barbara County Chardonnay

While discovering new wineries is terrific, I like to balance that with a look at releases from producers that I have found to be reliable over a period of time. Lucas & Lewellen is one such Winery. I became aware of them a few years ago when some selections from their sister label Mandolina were featured over at woot.com. I've come to like not only their wines but also the value they represent. Today I'll look at one of their current releases of Chardonnay. This fruit for the 2007 Lucas & Lewellen Chardonnay is sourced from their Goodchild and Los Alamos Vineyards. Both of these are located within the Santa Barbara County AVA. This selection is 100% Chardonnay. Fermentation was accomplished in stainless steel. 1,002 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $16.

A combination of orchard and stone fruit aromas waft from the nose of this Chardonnay. Both pear and apple intermingle throughout the palate, with the pear notes leading the way. Hints of lemon pudding kick in about midway through and carry through the finish which is lengthy and also features baker's spice and a hint of white pepper. This wine has excellent acidity and will pair well with a variety of foods. A cheese and fruit plate would be a particularly excellent match.

If you've read this site for any length of time you've probably gotten the drift that over-oaked Chardonnay is something I have particular disdain for. I don't mind some oak, but I'm always wary when approaching a Chardonnay. No need for concern here as this offering is made in Stainless Steel. The fruit here is so fresh, so gloriously sumptuous that I'm glad there was nothing in the way to detract from those wonderful flavors. This is another excellent value from Lucas & Lewellen, once again they over deliver on price point.

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Thanksgiving On A Budget With The Robert Mondavi Family of Wines

With Thanksgiving a couple of days away it’s time to think about what wines to serve with your holiday meal. This year, as much if not more than any other, many are faced with the need to make the holiday not only joyful but affordable as well. With that in mind I’ve picked out a trio of tasty selections that come in at a budget price. All three come from labels that were started by Robert Mondavi. Over the years in addition to his namesake Napa winery he started a number of other labels in all parts of the world with numerous focuses. Today I’ll look at three from California facilities that hit the spot taste wise and won’t break the budget either. First up is the Robert Mondavi Private Selection 2008 Sauvignon Blanc. The fruit for this wine comes predominately from Monterey County (92%) with San Benito County (5%) and Paso Robles (3%) making up the rest. In addition to Sauvignon Blanc (94%), Riesling (3%) and Gewürztraminer (3%) are blended in. This selection was aged and fermented in stainless steel. The suggested retail price for this offering is $11.

Lemon Zest notes dominate the fresh nose of this Sauvignon Blanc Throughout the palate stone and citrus fruit characteristics are prominent. Lemon ice in particular is a standout flavor. A hint of grass comes in during the mid-palate and continues through the finish along with mineral notes and a touch of flint. The finish is crisp and clean featuring good length in its category and excellent acidity.

Especially at holiday time it’s nice to have several wines throughout the day. This Sauvignon Blanc will serve equally well as a welcome wine or paired with appetizers. It’s tasty on it’s own but the terrific acidity it showcases will help make it a match with a host of lighter foods.

The second wine is the Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi 2007 Zinfandel. Fruit for this wine is sourced mostly in Lodi (94%) with the balance coming from several other California regions. In addition to Zinfandel (91%), Merlot (3%), Petite Sirah (2%), Malbec (2%) Cabernet Sauvignon and other varieties (2%) are blended in. The suggested retail price for this wine is $8.

This 2007 wine leads with a jam-laden nose, so typically associated with Zinfandel. It’s loaded with berry, cherry and hint of cedar. The palate is very juicy with red and black fruit flavors intermingling and fighting your tongue for attention, Black cherry is particularly prominent. The finish features sweet cocoa, sour berry, white pepper and vanilla that echoes persistently. This is a well balanced and food friendly Zinfandel.

Thanksgiving is perhaps the most American of holidays. Zinfandel is the closest we have to a heritage grape in this country. The two go together philosophically as well as they do pairing wise. This wine is a good fit for the abundant cornucopia of foods on the average American Thanksgiving table. For $8 a bottle you can have a lot of it on hand to quench everyone’s thirst.

The final wine for a tasty and budget priced Thanksgiving is the Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi 2008 Moscato. Grapes for this wine were sourced from throughout California. This 100% Muscat is a blend of Muscat Canelli (60%), Orange Muscat (30%) and Muscat of Alexandria (10%). Alcohol content is a modest 10% for this selection. The suggested retail price for this wine is $8.

Lychee fruit and honey clove make up the inviting nose of this wine. Orange blossom, tangerine and apricot notes are all prominent throughout the palate of this Moscato. Subtle white pepper notes kick in around mid-palate and continue through the finish along with additional honey and citrus notes. This wine is light, fragrant and sweet but not overly so.

This 2008 Moscato will be a good choice to pair with dessert. Fruit tart or Italian Cheesecake both come to mind as excellent matches. Alternatively this wine could be dessert on its own.

Each of these wines is true to its varietal and is a solid value. Shop around and you’ll find them for less than the suggested retail price. Savvy shoppers will be able to round all three of them up for less than $25 combined. Now that’s some Holiday drinking on a budget. These wines are also widely available so you should easily be able to find them throughout the US and beyond.

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Bodegas Navarro Lopez - 2007 Rojo Tempranillo / Cabernet Sauvignon

Spain's Bodegas Navarro Lopez  has a history that dates back over 100 years. Current owners Don Doroteo and Navarro Donado purchased the property in the 1980's. Between that original property and two others acquired in the 1990's they have over 150 hectares of vineyard land. A majority of their holdings are planted to Tempranillo, Garancha and Macabeo. Today I'll look at one of their blends under the Granrojo designation. The Rojo 2007 Tempranillo/Cabernet Sauvignon is produced using fruit from the Valdepenas region of Spain. The vineyard site is 700 meters above sea level. This offering blends 90% Tempranillo and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. 3,000 cases of this vintage were imported and the suggested retail price is $10.99.

Violet and rose petal aromas are joined by both red and black fruit characteristics in the nose of this Spanish blend. The palate of this wine is beautifully dry with cranberry, cherry and hints of strawberry all playing a role. Spice notes really kick in about halfway through with white pepper leading the charge along with a bit of nutmeg. The story of the finish is told primarily by what can be best described as an avalanche of mineral notes. These are joined by some earth and together they help provide good length. Firm acidity frames this offering. This wine will be a great match for grilled sausages or cured meats.

Finding wines that are worth drinking in this price range is fun and can be rewarding. they're out there to be sure. However this selection kicks things up a few pegs. The mineral component on the finish is both generous and compelling. When you factor that in it sets this wine apart. A lovely little wine and an even better value for the money.

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Stepping Stone - 2007 Grenache / 2007 Cabernet Franc

Earlier this year I had the opportunity to taste and write about what were then the current Cabernet Sauvignon releases for Cornerstone Cellars in Napa. Both wines were truly exceptional; the Howell Mountain Cabernet was a particularly special bottle. A few months later I had the chance, while I was out in Napa Valley, to taste some of their older vintages as well as what were then upcoming releases. Once again the wines were very impressive. So I was quite pleased to find wines from their second label Stepping Stone on my desk to sample. Today I’ll look at their current releases of Grenache and Cabernet Franc. Stay tuned for a close look at the current releases from their main label soon too. First up is the Stepping Stone 2007 Grenache. The fruit for this wine was sourced in Lake County. In addition to Grenache (96%), a bit of Zinfandel (4%) is blended in as well. 500 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $20.

Personally I’ve been drinking more and more Grenache of late. As time has gone on I’ve found it to be amongst the food friendliest of red varietals. This Stepping Stone selection opens with deep, dark berry aromas. Strawberry, rhubarb, blackberry pie and a host of spice notes are all part of the full flavored palate. The dark fruit continues through the finish where it’s joined by black pepper and a final savory note that clings persistently to the back of the throat. Ultimately it draws you in for another sip. This Grenache is framed by good acidity.

The second selection is the Stepping Stone 2007 Cabernet Franc. The fruit for this offering was sourced in Carneros. In addition to Cabernet Franc (90%), Merlot (10%) has been blended in. 500 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $30.

When I’m out tasting wine, there are certain varietals whose mere presence on a tasting sheet build up anticipation. Even before getting to them on the list I find myself thinking about them and hoping that they live up to my expectation for that varietal. Cabernet Franc is most definitely one of those grapes. So as you could imagine, I'm glad that the second selection from Stepping Stone is a Cabernet Franc.

This 2007 Cabernet Franc from Carneros leads with leather, plum, blueberry and a hint of eucalyptus in the nose. Continued plum and blueberry combine in a gentle, layered and diverse palate. Cigar box emerges on the finish along with mineral and gentle hints of earth and little waves of spice. This wine has absolutely terrific acidity. Much like the Grenache this Cabernet Franc is a food lover’s delight.

First off these two releases under Cornerstone Cellars Stepping Stone label are delicious wines in their own right. Secondly, each is an excellent examples of Grenache and Cabernet Franc respectively. They also do a fine job representing the regions where the fruit was sourced. While not intended for long term aging like the Cornerstone Cabernet’s these Stepping Stone wines will be delicious for the next 3-5 years. They’re reasonably priced for the quality they offer and both would be solid bets with a wide array of food.

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Campo Viejo - 2006 Crianza

vino_crianzaWines from the Rioja region of Spain were the first from that county to hit my radar. Over the last few years wines from other Spanish regions are rightfully getting a lot of acclaim. That doesn’t mean we should forget about Rioja which still represents some of the great values of the world. Today I’ll look at a Crianza from Campo Viejo. According to Wine law in Spain to be labeled as Crianza a red wine must be aged for at least 2 years with a minimum of 6 months in oak before release. The Campo Viejo 2006 Crianza is composed primarily of Tempranillo with Garnacha and Mazuela blended in. Barrel aging occurred over 12 months. This was followed by bottle aging prior to release. The suggested retail price for this wine is $10.

Cherry and cedar aromas are prominent on the nose of this 2006 wine from Rioja. A persistent core of fruit presents itself throughout the palate; sour cherry, and raspberry are preeminent with subtler blackberry fruit as well as spice notes that include nutmeg and white pepper. Cherry pie crust characteristics lead the finish. They’re joined by continued red berry fruit and hints of dust. This wine has soft tannins and excellent acidity. This Crianza will pair well with a casual spread of hard cheeses, olives, bread and cured meats.

For $10 this wine is a very good deal. Whether you’re unfamiliar with offerings from Rioja and want to experiment or are looking for an everyday wine to keep on hand this selection is an attractive choice that features lots of appealing fruit and an easy going style.

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Cameron Hughes - 2005 Lot 112 Napa County Merlot

btl_lot_112There’s no question in my mind that the Merlot grape can make some of the best wines in the world. On the other hand there are also some wines out there labeled Merlot that taste like anything but. Additionally, I’ve become pretty confident that the wines négociant Cameron Hughes is sourcing and releasing are going to be solid values. So it was with all those thoughts swirling in my head that I prepared to taste one of their current release Merlots. The Cameron Hughes 2005 Lot 112 Merlot is made from fruit sourced in two Napa County regions; Coombsville and Jamieson Canyon. While neither is officially considered a distinct appellation I know there has been plenty of thought that Coombsville will be soon. This wine is 100% Merlot. 4,700 cases of this offering were released and the suggested retail price is $12.

Blueberry, plum, and violet notes highlight the nose of this 2005 Merlot. Hints of vanilla bean are also present. The fruit on the palate leans towards red flavors with wild strawberry, cherry and raspberry in the forefront along with black pepper. Chocolate and earth emerge on the finish along with hints of dried cherry and plum. This wine has yielding tannins and good acidity.

The Lot 112 Merlot is another strong argument that price-point shouldn’t play a role in the decision to decant or not. A solid hour in the decanter really helped this selection open up. Once it did this Merlot showed itself to be both true to its varietal and also very tasty overall. For $12 this is another very nice value in the Cameron Hughes Lot Series.

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Grooner - 2008 Grüner Veltliner

grooner_06Are you drinking Grüner Veltliner? If not I highly recommend you start. For the last few years this benchmark Austrian varietal has made great inroads in the US marketplace. Examples of this wine vary from simple quaffable wines, to highly complex, age-worthy selections that beg contemplation, and everything in between. And while savvy wine lovers have been in the know on Grüner Veltliner for a while now word is also starting to reach those that like wine but don’t necessarily spend all their free time geeking out about it. That’s where Grooner comes in to bridge the gap. Importer Monika Caha found that when she poured examples of this wine for consumers they reacted positively but the name caused confusion. So she approached highly regarded winemaker Meinhard Forstreiter to create a selection specifically for the US market. The result is Grooner, which leads with the phonetic spelling for ease. Today I’ll look at their current release. The Grooner 2008 Grüner Veltliner is produced using fruit from the Niederoesterreich appellation located on the southern bank of the Danube. This selection is 100% Grüner Veltliner. The suggested retail price for this wine is $14.99.

Lemon ice, mango and vanilla notes waft gently from the nose of this 2008 Grüner Veltliner. Flavors of orange, continued mango, lemon zest and an undercurrent of green apple make up the mouth-filling palate. Pineapple characteristics kick in about ½ way through and continue through the finish along with hints of honey and a gentle touch of petrol. That final note adds a nice savory edge as well as some extra complexity that lends itself to a very memorable ending.

I’m always interested in intent when it comes to wine. Grooner achieves it’s intent swimmingly. It provides good Grüner Veltliner character at a reasonable price and it’s an appealing, easy to drink version of the varietal that serves as an excellent introduction for those unfamiliar with it. This wine will pair well with a host of foods which is one of the great hallmarks of Grüner Veltliner. That said it drinks nicely on its own and would be an excellent wine to serve with appetizers or before a meal.

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Purple Cowboy - 2007 Night Rider Merlot

purple_cowboy_merlotI find wine offerings in the everyday drinking range of interest. It’s easy (relatively speaking) to walk into a wine shop and spend a premium to get a slam dunk bottle of wine. Occasions and moods sometimes call for just that. But most of the time it’s interesting to experiment and see what’s out there that can be had for a song. The wines from Purple Cowboy hit my radar and I was curious to see what they tasted like.  Paso Robles fruit tends to pique my curiosity and the packaging matches the sort of “fun” one looks for at this price point. On top of all that there’s a charitable angle. Terry Wheatley the founder of this label is a breast cancer survivor. She comes from a family of ranchers and rodeo riders/cowboys. She also co-founded Tough Enough To Wear Pink. $1 from every case of the Purple Cowboy wines purchased (up to $100,000 in 2009-2010) goes directly to this organization. Their goal is helping rodeo organizations raise awareness of breast cancer. They urge Rodeo riders to compete wearing pink which helps focus attention and raise money. Today I’ll look at their Merlot. The 2007 Purple Cowboy Night Rider Merlot is made from all Paso Robles fruit. This offering is a blend of Merlot (95%), Cabernet Sauvignon (3%) and mixed reds (2%). Fermentation occurred in stainless steel followed by barrel aging for part of the blend. The suggested retail price for this wine is $12.

Blueberry fills the nose of this wine, and vanilla bean underscores it. The palate is a deep, dark quagmire of plums, blueberry and dark cherry. These flavors all come together to form a bruising collection of flavors that lead to a finish that features more sweet fruit and dark luscious chocolate notes. This wine has yielding tannins and good acidity. Pair this with anything that comes off of your grill or a bucket of chicken you pick up from Colonel Sanders.

In the $12 price range I want a wine that tastes like what it’s supposed to. As simple as that sounds many wines in the budget range (huge category of course) taste like anything but what the varietal label says. Purple Cowboy is very obviously Merlot. In addition to that varietal correctness it’s also got a fair level of complexity. This wine also has a flavor profile that’s going to appeal to the masses. Its clear ability to pair with a wide range of casual foods won’t hurt either. So if you’re looking for something to open on a random Tuesday night or to bring to a friends home for a BBQ or other laid back function, Purple Cowboy is a good bet. You can also feel good knowing you’ll help raise some money for a good cause.

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Urraca - 2008 Malbec / 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon

marca_urraca_altaA few months back I took a look at several wines in the Urraca portfolio. A Chardonnay and two blends were the current releases at the time. All three were impressive expressions of what can be achieved in Argentina at a super-premium level. Now Urraca has also released a couple of varietal wines that come in at a lower price point. I’ll look at their current Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon today. First up is the Urraca 2008 Malbec. The fruit for this offering, 100% Malbec, was sourced at the Urraca vineyard in Agrelo. Barrel aging was accomplished over 12 months in a combination of new French and American oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is $24.50.

Plum, black cherry and hints of vanilla bean express themselves prominently in the nose of this Malbec. Throughout the persistent palate there is a lot of intense, dark and brooding fruit. In addition to being dark though the flavors are also fresh, young, brash and deep. Blackberry and raspberry are among the standout notes. Around mid-palate sweet dark chocolate notes kick in and continue through the lovely finish where they’re joined by black pepper, espresso, smoked meat and a hint of tar. The length of the finish is above average.

For me this Malbec compares favorably to well made and jammy Zinfandels from California. The commonalities include bold and expressive fruit and a wide range of flavors. In many ways I think these varietals have a lot in common as the entry point for both can be very reasonable in price with excellent quality for the money. And that is one of the many reasons I feel Malbec is making such an impact in the US. And to continue the comparison, both Malbec and Zinfandel can achieve greater and more complex things when the fruit, and the way it’s treated come together. This Malbec is one example of that.  For a bit over $20 this wine offers a very nice value and just as importantly an excellent expression of Argentina’s signature red varietal.

The second selection today is the Urraca 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon. As with the Malbec, fruit was also sourced at the Estate vineyard in Agrelo. This selection is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and it spent 12 months in a combination of new French and American oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is $24.50.

Bing Cherry aromas are prominent in the nose of this Cabernet Sauvignon along with some vanilla and an ever so subtle hint of tar. The palate is loaded with a solid core of fruit. Plum, blueberry and continued cherry are the stars of the show. Red fruit flavors lead, but darker fruit echoes it to provide a nice contrast on the tongue. Earth and black pepper emerge in the finish which has good length and remarkable smoothness. The tannins on this wine are fine and soft and it has very solid acidity. This is an excellent food wine and found myself craving a dish of pasta with red sauce.

When I first started drinking wines from Argentina about 15 years ago Cabernet Sauvignon is what drew me in. I was amazed by the number of remarkably solid Cabs coming out of Argentina at prices other parts of the world couldn’t touch. Today there are even more wines in that category on US shelves which serve as a good introduction to Argentine wines. However there is a growing segment of wines coming from Argentina that steps things up in quality and complexity. This Cabernet Sauvignon is simply better, with more going on than many others on the shelf. Yes it’s a bit more than the selections that are pure value products. They say you get what you pay for; in this case you get more. If you normally spend around $20 on Cabernet, from California for instance, you’ll be impressed with what this one delivers for the price. My recommendation would be to drink this 2008 Cabernet from Urraca over the next few years when its young fruit flavors can best shine.

While I’m a big fan of blends and always curious to see how the diverse varietals converge to create a unique wine, straight varietal offerings are equally fascinating to me. When they represent a particular spot in a specific year as these do they tell the story of a vineyard at a moment in time. Both of these wines from Urraca do that quite well. Considered alongside their super-premium offerings the Urraca portfolio has grown in breadth and impressiveness. I’m awed by the Urraca wines as a whole and equally excited by what they represent for Argentine wine in the US.

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