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Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

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Introducing "Lola Kay" by Rubissow Wines

One of the producers that have hit my radar over the last couple of years is Rubissow. This Mt. Veeder based producer has been doing impressive things with estate grown Mountain fruit dating back to the mid 80’s. Of late, they’ve ratcheted things up to another level. By dropping production levels and also physically dropping fruit on their vines they’ve shifted to a more concentrated, full bodied style of wine. Now they have also launched a new project: Lola Kay. Lola Kay is essentially their second label. What this represents is more than that though. With the Lola Kay imprint they source their fruit from friends, neighbors and other local vineyards that have some extra high quality fruit they can’t use for one reason or another. While the vineyard names aren’t on the label let's just say they all come from the nice part of town. By taking advantage of surplus they get excellent deals and pass the savings on to consumers.

The first release is a blend of Cabernet Franc (52%), Merlot (35%), Syrah (10%), Cabernet Sauvignon (2.5%), and Petit Verdot (0.5%). It was aged in all French oak, 40% of the barrels were new. Lola Kay 2006 Napa Red Wine has a suggested retail price of $20. The grapes used for this project normally go into wines that sell for $40 - $50.

I tasted this wine at Rubissow last summer, and while I don’t have specific notes on it, I recall that it was a tasty wine that complemented the main portfolio well. From my memory I recollect it representing a very nice value as well. It's good to see that it's out on shelves now.

Look for an extensive interview with Peter Rubissow to be posted here soon.

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Pellegrino - 2008 Passito di Pantelleria

Dessert wines come in all shapes and sizes. Port and port style wines are perhaps the most recognizable to the average wine drinker. But just like most growing regions, or counties at least, have their own take on Sparkling Wine, so to do most of them have their own styles of dessert wine. Throughout Italy there are several. One of the grapes often used for making sweeter wines is Moscato. Today I’ll look at a Moscato based wine from Sicily. The Pellegrino 2008 Passito di Pantelleria was produced from 100% Moscato grapes. The fruit was sourced from the family’s own vineyards in Sicily. The vines average 20-30 years of age. This family owned winery has close to 1,000 acres under vine, mostly planted to indigenous varietals. Geographically Pellegrino is located about 80 miles south of the Marsala region. Pure alcohol is added to stop fermentation. Approximately 20% of the grapes used are dried. The suggested retail price for this selection, in standard 750 ml bottles, is $27.99.

Aromas of Nectarine and Apricot with a lighter floral undertone highlight the nose of this 2008 Sicilian dessert wine. The apricot theme continues on the palate along with both white and yellow peach notes. Tangerine and orange flavors chime in as well, helping to produce a rounded and full flavored contingent of sweet, juicy fruit flavors. Both white pepper and nutmeg characteristics are present in the above average finish of this wine; they cling to the back of the throat, leaving a lasting impression.

What most impressed me about this wine is that it has a refreshing quality that is not often present in dessert wines. Way too often dessert wines are overly sweet and cloying, making it difficult to enjoy more than a small portion. The 2008 Passito di Pantelleria is the antithesis of this. Yes it’s sweet and full flavored, but it’s not overly sticky. In fact it’s not hard to imagine sharing a bottle of this wine over a long evening with a friend or two. For a retail price of $27.99 it also represents a nice value. While this wine works perfectly well at room temperature, don’t be afraid to put a slight chill on it during the warmer months of the year. Appetizing on its own, this wine will be an excellent match for soft, ripe cheeses.

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Two Angels - 2008 Sauvignon Blanc

With spring here and summer on the way it’s the perfect time to enjoy lighter more refreshing wines. One of the varietals that scream warm weather to me is Sauvignon Blanc. This adaptable varietal is made in many of the world’s major wine regions. And as is the case with a red varietal like Cabernet Sauvignon, the different regions of the world impart their own stamp upon it. High Valley, north of Napa in California is an area that has been making some interesting and noteworthy Sauvignon Blanc the last few years. Today I’ll look at one from Two Angels. The Two Angels 2008 Sauvignon Blanc was made exclusively from fruit sourced at Shannon Ridge Vineyards in High Valley. Two separate lots were chosen for this wine, picked 10 days apart. These vineyards sit approximately 2,200 feet above sea level. This offering is 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Just over 2,500 cases of this vintage were produced and the suggested retail price is $15.99.

Citrus, green melon and grass aromas fill the expressive nose of this 2008 Sauvignon Blanc. Gooseberry, honeydew melon and continued citrus themes make up the generously fruity palate of this wine.  Subtle peach and apricot notes along with hints of apple kick in around mid-palate and continue to the crisp and refreshing finish along with white pepper and hazelnut characteristics. This wine has terrific acidity and very good balance.

What stands out to me about this wine is that it features elements of both citrus and grass leaning Sauvignon Blancs. That said it falls towards the citrus side of things. The bottom line is that the Two Angels Sauvignon Blanc is a delicious wine that exemplifies the best of the style that is being produced these days using fruit from High Valley. Whether you drink it alone or pair it with lighter foods, this Sauvignon Blanc will shine.

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Laurenz V. - 2008 Singing Grüner Veltliner

Both consciously and subconsciously Austrian wines have been creeping into my mind more and more. Part of the reason for that is that there are a larger number of them available to us in the US than ever before. The variety has also increased and the quality has been steady. All those factors have come together to make Austria one of the countries whose wines I take every opportunity I can to taste. Grüner Veltliner is the varietal that has been leading the charge on our shores for the Austrian wine industry. That said many other interesting wines are starting to get here too. Today I’ll be looking at a Grüner Veltliner, but keep your eyes open for additional coverage of all manner of Austrian wines in the months ahead. The Laurenz V. 2008 Singing Grüner Veltliner was produced using fruit from the Niederosterreich appellation. This selection is 100% Grüner Veltliner. Fermentation was accomplished in stainless steel. 20,000 cases of this wine were bottled and the suggested retail price is $12.99.

Orange blossom, lemon and lime notes all contribute to the collection of bold citrus aromas in the nose of this 2008 Grüner Veltliner. The citrus theme, particularly the lemon-lime, continues in the palate along with apple and other orchard fruit characteristics. There is an overriding impression of gentleness to the palate that’s belied by layers of spice notes that emerge as this wine opens up. Gripping acidity and lingering grapefruit notes are part of the crisp finish of this wine.

There are a couple of key things about this wine that are really important to mention. First of all is that there is a ton of good varietal character at play here. For a wine in this price range that’s important, especially since there are still plenty of folks out there who have yet to experience Grüner Veltliner. If you’re amongst their number, rest assured that The Laurenz V. 2008 Singing Grüner Veltliner will be a solid introduction. The other key point is that while this wine should most definitely be chilled, don’t serve it too cold and risk missing out on the subtle charms that emerge when this Grüner is at the right temperature. For Grüner Veltliner I find that 50 degrees is just about perfect most of the time.

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Hugel et Fils - 2006 Pinot Blanc “Cuvée Les Amours”

There is a lot of really nice Gewürztraminer and Riesling being produced in Alsace; as a result not nearly as much attention is usually paid to Pinot Blanc. In my opinion that’s a shame. There are examples of this wine out there that are lovely, well priced and most importantly quite delicious. Today I’m going to look at a widely available offering from Hugel. Their yellow label wines are on the shelf of most wine shops that have an Alsace representation. The 2006 Hugel et Fils Pinot Blanc “Cuvée Les Amours” was produced using fruit sourced from local growers under long standing contracts. This selection is 100% Pinot Blanc. Fruit is hand harvested and the presses are filled by gravity. The juice in the first part of the pressing is the only one used in the yellow label “Hugel” wines. Bottling occurs the spring after harvest. The wine is then bottle aged until ready for release. The suggested retail price for this offering is $16.99.

A potpourri of fresh flower aromas is joined by lychee fruit and vanilla in the nose of this 2006 Pinot Blanc. The lychee theme continues in the palate where its joined by apricot and hazelnut flavors. A terrific spice component emerges at mid-palate and continues forward from there through the finish. This wine is crisp and refreshing with solid acidity.

You could pair this Pinot Blanc with light appetizers or drink it on its own. In either case it’s a very solid white entry that I've found you can depend on from one vintage to the next.

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Blackstone - 2007 Sonoma Reserve Merlot

Blackstone Winery is perhaps best known for the California Merlot they produce in large quantities; there are quite a few other selections in their line. With their Sonoma Reserve tier of wines Blackstone has aimed to offer alternatives to their budget friendly line of wines. Today I’ll look at the Merlot in their Sonoma Reserve series and see how it stacks up both on its own and as a counterpart to their more ubiquitous release of the same grape. The 2007 Blackstone Sonoma Reserve Merlot was produced from fruit sourced in Alexander Valley (45%), Dry Creek Valley (22%), Sonoma Coast (15%), Carneros (10%), Sonoma Valley (2%), and San Joaquin County (6%). The fruit for this wine was handpicked. In addition to Merlot (85%), Cabernet Sauvignon (7%), Ruby Cabernet (6%), and Petit Verdot (2%) were blended in. Barrel aging occurred over a period of 20 months in a combination of French, American and Hungarian oak; both new and older barrels were utilized. 27,000 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $20.

First off I should mention that I found that this 2007 Merlot really benefits from aeration. An hour in the decanter really helped it come to life and shine. Blackberry and boysenberry pie aromas fill the extroverted nose of this wine along with hints of chocolate. The berry theme continues through the palate though it’s supplanted by vibrant red cherry notes as they take the lead role. Tons of earth, chicory, and dark, dusty baker’s chocolate emerge in the finish. This wine has a fine tannic structure and solid acidity.

The 2007 Blackstone Sonoma Reserve Merlot is a solid wine for the money. If you normally drink their California Merlot you’ll find that this is a couple of steps up in complexity, structure and length. With 27,000 cases out there it won’t be hard to find either.

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Lamberti - Rosé Spumante (NV) Sparkling Wine

When speaking to friends, readers and other wine lovers in general it seems that by and large Sparkling Wine falls victim to a couple of preconceived notions. The most common is that often people aren’t very familiar with how many wine regions make Sparklers and instead think only of Champagne. Personally I find that just like any other category of wine each regions styles, productions methods and sense of place make for some interesting sipping. Of those who do venture to other areas of the world for Sparkling Wine, many limit themselves to special occasions for its enjoyment. In my opinion that’s a mistake. Sparkling Wine could conceivably have as much of a place on your table alongside a meal as it does next to your party hat on New Years Eve. Today I’m going to look at one from Italy that I just tasted and enjoyed. The Lamberti Rosé Spumante is a non vintage sparkling wine. This selection was produced using a blend of Pinot Bianco (34%), Raboso (33%) and Pinot Nero (33%). This fruit was sourced from hillside vineyards throughout Trevisio in the Veneto. After pressing, the juice was immediately separated from the pomace to avoid adding more color than desired. The Charmat method was used in production. This is the same method used for Prosecco and Asti. The suggested retail price for this wine is $14.

This Spumante has a light salmon hue. The vibrant nose has fresh wild strawberry aromas in spades along with a lighter but present floral undertone. Berry mousse flavors form the core of the palate which is richly flavored and leads to additional hints of creaminess that carry out to the finish. Strawberry and raspberry notes are joined by yeasty characteristics and cream scone reference points. The finish lingers in a refreshing manner, beckoning you back to the glass for more.

This is a fun Sparkling Wine that works well on its own and will also complement lighter appetizers; fruit based desserts or soft cheeses. Throughout the palate this wine has a good, pleasing weight. It feels and tastes substantial, belying its $14 price tag. There really is quite a bit going on here and this is an interesting selection that also provides good value. Lamberti Rosé Spumante is an inexpensive and tasty way to break out of the sparkling wine for special occasion’s rut.

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Graffigna - 2007 Centenario Malbec

Malbec stands as the signature grape of Argentina. Lots of other varietals flourish there but Malbec is the varietal that they do like no one else does and perhaps can. That said not every Malbec from Argentina is good. Consistency can be particularly difficult to achieve in the budget category that a lot of readily available Malbecs fall into. With that in mind I decided to take a look at one from Graffigna that I really enjoyed a previous vintage of. The Graffigna 2007 Centenario Malbec was made from fruit sourced in the Pedernal Valley of San Juan. This selection was produced using 100% Malbec. Hand harvesting was employed. Fermentation took place in stainless steel. Oak aging was accomplished over 12 months in a combination of French (50%) and American (50%) oak. After the lots were blended the wine was bottled aged for an additional sic months prior to release. The suggested retail price for this wine is $13.

Effusive blackberry Jam aromas are supported by gentle wisps of crème fraiche in the lively and fresh nose of this 2007 Malbec. The palate of this wine is loaded with blueberry and plum flavors among others. It really brings to mind a bowl of juicy, dark berry fruits. Sour berry compote, white pepper and minerals are all part of the medium length finish. This selection has soft tannins and sufficient acidity.

This offering from Graffigna shows off the exuberance that makes Malbec so pleasing and accessible to lots of folks. Additionally, this wine has a fair amount of structure. Most importantly for me though this wine shows a consistent amount of quality from the previous vintage. Considering that this wine is most often available for right around $10 this is a very good value.

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Cornerstone Cellars - 2006 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon / 2005 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

It was about a year ago that I tasted the wines of Cornerstone Cellars for the first time. My initial impression was strong and favorable; so I took a closer look. Since that time I’ve had the chance to taste these wines a few other times. Notably at the 2009 Wine Bloggers Conference I was able to taste several vintages side by side. That experience underscored the quality of the wines and showcased the inherent ability these wines have to age. It also showcased the consistency from vintage to vintage that this boutique producer has established. Today I’m pleased to take a look at their current releases of Cabernet Sauvignon. First up is the Cornerstone Cellars 2006 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Fruit for this selection was sourced from four vineyard sites. This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel aging was accomplished over two years in French oak; a year of bottle aging followed. 1,200 cases of this vintage were produced and the suggested retail price is $65.

The deep, dark purple hue of this wine is striking the moment it’s poured from the bottle. Berry, eucalyptus and cedar aromas follow and fill the nose in a profoundly exciting manner. Rich berry flavors accompanied by spice are prominent throughout a layered palate that is tight at first, but opens with some air. Earth, pencil lead and espresso notes are al part of the lengthy and lingering finish. Firm tannins and solid acidity form the backbone of this wine.

If you’re going to drink this Cabernet now, decanting is in order and highly recommended. An hour will be good, 2-3 would be better. However if you have the patience lay this down for a few years and you’ll be rewarded by a wine that is more resolved and expressive than it its now in its exuberant youth. Either way this is a terrific Cabernet.

The second wine is the Cornerstone Cellars 2005 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon. 100% of the fruit for this wine was sourced at their organic vineyard block on Howell Mountain. This offering is also 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel aging was accomplished over two years in French oak; two years of bottle aging followed prior to release. 433 cases of this selection were produced. The suggested retail price is $100 (However it's currently $75 at their webiste).

Wild strawberry, red raspberry, cassis, mushroom and eucalyptus aromas are all part of the highly expressive and ostentatious nose of this 2005 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon. Cherry leads the way throughout a palate that is layered, complex, full flavored, intense, balanced, and in a word, impressive. Spice notes accompany the cherry and lead to the finish which shows off black tea, chocolate and earthiness that emerges more and more as this Cabernet opens up. The finish on this wine is very lengthy and particularly striking for the level of balanced intensity it maintains. Firm tannins and solid acidity lend to a wonderfully structured wine.

This Howell Mountain Cabernet is really just a baby right now. Yes it’s delicious, particularly after several hours of air, but it really should be put away for 5 or more years to truly come into its own. If you insist on drinking it now definitely decant it for several hours and pair it with something hearty. This is another excellent and exciting release from Cornerstone Cellars.

There are a lot of great Cabernets coming out of Napa Valley from producers of all shapes and sizes, so its hard to get to anywhere near all of them. Here are two tremendous ones that are well worth an extra special effort to locate. Cornerstone Cellars impressive run of top notch Cabernet Sauvignon continues with these releases.

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Jacob's Creek - 2001 Johann Shiraz / Cabernet Sauvignon

When it comes to Australian wine, Jacob’s Creek is amongst the ubiquitous names. Many of the wines in their “Classic” and “Reserve” tiers are widely available on US shelves. A bit harder to locate, are the “Heritage” line of wines. Today I’m going to look at one of the wines in that range. The Jacob’s Creek 2001 Johann Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon was produced using fruit sourced from a number of vineyard blocks. The varietal breakdown is 64% Shiraz and 36% Cabernet Sauvignon. The parcels were fermented and aged in oak separately. After 18 months In barrel the blend was created using the components they felt would best show off both the Shiraz and the Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is named after Johann Gramp, a Bavarian immigrant who planted the first commercial vineyard in the Barossa Valley. This wine most often sells for about $70.

Plum, blueberry and blackberry aromas fill the nose of this 2001 Australian blend. The palate of this wine is full flavored, layered and complex. Wave after wave of delicious dark berry fruit flavors are in evidence. That said this wine manages to retain balance and never go over the top. Vanilla, sour berry, white pepper and plum pudding spices emerge at mid-palate and continue through the impressive finish which also features copious mineral and white pepper notes. This wine has firm but yielding tannins and good acidity.

What I like best about this selection is the length of the finish coupled with the overall restraint the wine shows. While this offering, the benchmark wine of Jacob’s Creek, is full flavored it’s also impeccably balanced and structured. At nine years old now it still shows plenty of life. I expect this offering to drink well for the next 5-8 years. And while this will be a little harder to locate than their general release wines, the effort will be rewarded

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The Current Release Wines of Tinto Figuero

The other night I had the chance to taste through the wines of  Tinto Figuero with two of the winery principals. The setting was Solera in Manhattan. Spanish wine and food are enough to get any reasonable person excited; I know I certainly was. Part of the excitement was that I’d never before had the Tinto Figuero wines. As I was explaining to someone at this very dinner, given the choice between a wine I know I love and one I’ve never tasted I’m going to go for the wine I never tasted at least nine out of ten times. Tinto Figuero is a family operation run by three brothers, their brother in law and their father who keeps his hand involved in the winery he started with his wife. Originally grape growers dating back some generations, they eventually turned their attention to starting a winery and producing their own wines. The goals at Tinto Figuero are to make premium wines that are consistent from vintage to vintage, express the sense of place imparted by their spot in the Ribera del Duero, and to make wines that the people who have had them before will know is a Figuero the moment it hits their lips. Those goals are simple, straightforward and lofty all at the same time.

At dinner we tasted through four of their wines. These offerings make up the bulk of their portfolio and are their most widely distributed releases. Each of the wines is 100% Tempranillo, and sourced from their own vineyards in the Ribera del Duero. Grape selection and oak treatment are the major differences in how each wine is produced. My impressions were as follows:

Tinto Figuero – 2007 Roble Four Month In Barrel. Just fewer than 6,000 cases of this selection were produced. As the name indicates, this wine spent 4 months in oak. The suggested retail price is $19.99. Fresh, crushed raspberry aromas mark the nose of this wine. The fresh berry theme continues through the palate and onto the finish which features mineral notes and subtle hints of earth. This is Figuero’s everyday wine. It provides lots of bright, vibrant flavors and will be a good match for casual finger foods such as an assortment of tapas.

Tinto Figuero – 2005 Crianza Twelve Months In Barrel. Just over 20,000 cases of this offering were bottled. Fruit was sourced from vines with 20-20 years (80%) of age and the remainder (20%) over 50 years. Oak aging occurred over 12 months in a combination American (90%) and French (10%) oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is $28.99. Red raspberry aromas billow from the nose of this wine. Wisps of vanilla follow; the palate is a couple of steps up in intensity and complexity from the Four Month, Sour blackberry jam notes emerge on the finish which has good length and excellent acidity. A grilled steak would be an excellent match for this wine.

Tinto Figuero – 2004 Reserva Fifteen Months In Barrel. 8,333 six bottle cases of this wine were produced. Fruit was sourced from vines with more than 50 years of age. Barrel aging was achieved over 15 months in a combination of American (95%) and French (5%) oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is $53.99. This 2004 Tempranillo opens with a nose so intense, so inviting, and so appealing that it’s almost absurd to try and describe it. More than one person at the table would have likely jumped into the glass to get closer to this wine if that was possible. Kirsch Liqueur is one of the more prominent components of the nose, but that only begins to describe an aroma that is the very embodiment of the term intoxicating. It took me quite awhile to taste this wine as I couldn’t get past the nose to actually focus on tasting it. Once I did sip it, the wine greeted me with wave after wave of intense berry fruit flavor. And if the flavors weren’t quite as intense as the nose, they were certainly well more than adequate. Hints of vanilla and oak emerged at mid-palate to complement the fruit and lead to the finish which was as impressive as the nose. This wine lingers for a good long while. Everything about this selection is delicious. While it’s excellent now it will certainly improve over time in the bottle.

Tinto Figuero – 2004 Noble. 1,166 six bottle cases of this offering were produced. Fruit for this selection was sourced from vines with more than 70 years of age. Oak aging occurred over a period of 21 months. The first 15 months was spent in American oak followed by 6 months in French oak. An additional 15 months of bottle age was allowed before release. The suggested retail price for this wine is $130.99. First and foremost this wine is still a baby. It was decanted for 3 hours before we started to taste it. While it was certainly opening up this wine was still tight. Fresh cherries, leather and cigar box aromas mark the nose. Raspberry, blackberry and huckleberry flavors are all present in the layered palate. Dusty dark chocolate emerges around mid-palate and continues through the prodigious finish which is also marked by hints of chicory and cedar. This offering features chewy tannins, balanced by fine acidity. This is the epitome of a special occasion wine. Tinto Figuero 2004 Noble is the sort of selection you want to grab a couple of to lay down in your cellar and forget about for 5-10 years. If you have that sort of patience, you will undoubtedly be rewarded. If however you plan to drink this in the short term, decant it for 4-5 hours at minimum. Either way this is a terrific wine.

While this was my first experience tasting the wines of Tinto Figuero it certainly won’t be my last. Each of these releases is impressive in its own right and perhaps more importantly achieves the goal it sets out for. There are both substantial differences in these wines as well as a commonality of both house style and a common thread that ties them all together. In speaking to them and tasting their wines the commitment to sustained quality is evident. It’s going to be interesting to follow them over the years and see it play out.

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Guerrieri Rizzardi - 208 Soave Classico D.O.C.

I've been glad to see more and more Soave on US shelves of late. The average wine consumer thinks of Pinot Grigio first in terms of Italian white wines. But over time with any luck Soave will gain ground as another attractive, well priced option. Today I'm going to look at an example from 2008. The 2008 Guerrieri Rizzardi Soave Classico D.O.C. was produced using fruit sourced at the Rizzardi hillside estate vineyard. Winemaker Giuseppe Rizzardi chose to blend Chardonnay (20%) in with the Garganega (80%). After fermentation this wine spent 3-6 months on the lees in cement vats. 2,000 Cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $15.

Aromas of lemon-lime zest and granny smith apple fill the fresh nose of this 2008 Soave. The palate is full flavored and provides nice complexity.  Pineapple, asian pear, drried mango, white peach and hints of ginger are the most prominent flavors. Lite mineral notes, tangerine and white pepper all dot the medium length finish which is clean, crisp and refreshing. This is a wine whose flavors beckon you back to the glass for another sip. Excellent acidity keeps things balanced and helps make this a natural food wine.

This wine will work quite well with soft cheeses, appetizers and lighter chicken dishes. That said it's quite good on its own and makes an excellent apertif. It's light enough not to bog anyone down before a meal. The Guerrieri Rizzardi also has more than sufficient compexity for it's price point to both keep people interested and to represent a good value.

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A Global Trio For Valentine's Day

Valentine’s Day is here and to help celebrate the day in style some delicious wine is in order. When organizing a special occasion or Holiday meal I like to plan for several wines for each stage of the day. Certainly if you’re going to spend Valentine’s Day with someone important in your life each part of that celebration should have a wine to go with it. So today I’m presenting a trio of wines that will make for delicious drinking on Valentine’s Day or any other time. It also doesn’t hurt that each of the wines I’m recommending are modestly priced compared to the value they offer. To start off with you’ll want a wine that’s appropriate to settle in to the day. Something light, yet substantial in flavor, which also pairs as easily with conversation as it does appetizers. My selection is the Graffigna Centenario 2009 Pinot Grigio. This Argentine wine was produced using fruit sourced in the Tulum Valley of San Juan. It’s composed of 100% Pinot Grigio and was fermented in stainless steel. The suggested retail price for this wine is $13.

Mango, citrus and vanilla aromas fill the nose of this Pinot Grigio along with underlying elements of spice. These themes continue through the palate along with apricot and tropical fruit characteristics. Spices kick into full gear with white pepper, nutmeg and vanilla bean amongst the most prominent. Around mid-palate sour tangerine notes emerge and continue through the finish which includes additional wisps of vanilla and peach flavors that linger. Excellent acidity keeps everything in check.

This is a very fresh and lively Pinot Grigio. I’ve found this wine to be consistently delicious over the last several vintages. For $13 (less if you shop around), this wine is an excellent value. It’s going to be a great way to get your Valentine’s Day celebration started.

The second wine you’re going to need is something to pair with the main part of your meal. On these occasions I look for something that will complement a wide array of foods. My tendency is also to look for something with a lush mouth-feel that lends itself to easy drinkability while also providing complexity. My selection this time out is the Campo Viejo 2005 Reserva. This wine is made from fruit sourced in the Rioja region of Spain. As is typical in Rioja this wine was produced primarily from Tempranillo (85%). The balance is made up of indigenous varietals Graciano (10%), and Mazuelo (5%). Barrel aging was accomplished over 18 months in a combination of French and American oak. This wine spent an additional 18 months in bottle prior to release. The suggested retail price for this wine is $14.

Cedar, cherry and wild strawberry lead the nose of this 2005 Reserva from Spain. Cherry continues through the palate along with vanilla, blackberry and hints of smoke. Black pepper notes emerge prominently and lead to the finish which is marked by copious amounts of sour cherry, tobacco, leather, spice box and emerging earth reference points. This wine has medium tannins and very well balanced acidity.

This Rioja is another excellent value and it hits the marks I’m looking for. It has sufficient complexity and will pair with many foods while going down smoothly. It’s wide availability also makes it an easy selection to reach for in a pinch.

The third wine I plan for on a special day is a closer of sorts. It can be a dessert wine but doesn’t have to be. Sparkling Wine could work as well. But it should be something that can pair with your dessert and that you’ll want to continue drinking when dessert is over.  The dessert wine that I recently tasted and was inspired to report on is the Jaboulet Muscat de Beaumes de Venise “Le Chant des Groilles” 2007. This offering is from the Rhone Valley and was produced using only Muscat grapes. Aging was accomplished in cask followed by time in bottle. The suggested retail price for this wine in 375 ml splits is $24.99.

White peach, lychee and mango lead the effusive nose of this wine. Apricots are the star of the palate which has a sweet, honeyed characteristic to it. This is joined by lots of tropical fruit that’s also got a layer of vanilla bean. It all leads to a lengthy finish marked by excellent spice. This wine is very well balanced and shows off good acidity.

The problem with many dessert wines is that they’re too sweet to drink very much of. This Muscat doesn’t have that issue. It’s quite sweet to be sure but the acidity provides excellent balance. Here is a wine you will be glad to drink quite a bit more than a few sips of. Pair it with a fruit tart topped with crème fraiche or a platter of fruits, nuts and soft cheeses. Either way you’ll be in for a treat.

This trio of wines is sure to make for a very satisfying day. Whether it’s Valentine’s Day or any other time.

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Johann Donabaum - 2008 Rielsling / 2007 Reserve Grüner Veltliner

I recently attended a tasting of Austrian wines. The focus was on Blaufränkisch, which is Austria’s big red gift to the wine world in my opinion. However there were other varietals there. The cross sections of wines and styles were inspiring and I plan on tasting more and more wines from Austria going forward. If the tasting I attended was any indication there will be plenty of selections worth reporting on. Today I’m going to look at two white wines from winemaker Johann Donabaum. This relatively young producer makes a bit less than 6,000 cases of wine. Of these, 60% are Austria’s great white wine Grüner Veltliner. The first wine I’m looking at is the Johann Donabaum 2008 Smaragd Setzberg Riesling. This wine was produced using fruit from a single vineyard. This wine sells for approximately $40

The nose of this 2008 Riesling is lead by a combination of floral and stone fruit aromas. Honeysuckle, apricot and ginger play supporting roles. The apricot theme continues and in fact builds throughout the palate where it’s joined by yellow peach and subtle mango notes. Lemon zest kicks in around mid palate and shows the way to the finish which is zesty, spicy and lingers memorably. This wine is balanced by crisp acidity.

The finish of this wine goes on and on, quite impressively. That along with the overall balance are the two most impressive hallmarks of this wine. This is a world class Riesling that will stand up to cellaring over the next 7-10 years.

The second wine is the Johann Donabaum 2007 Loibner Reserve Grüner Veltliner.  The fruit for this offering was sourced from select vines in Loiben village vineyards. Their use of the term reserve designates particularly ripe grapes that are left to rest on the lees for an extended period of time. The suggested retail price for this Grüner Veltliner is approximately $40.

Moderate kiwi, citrus and green melon aromas waft from the somewhat reserved nose of this wine. Lemon/Lime zest is apparent throughout the palate along with a cornucopia of spice notes. Minerals and hints of chalk mark the seriously lengthy finish of this wine along with ginger, vanilla bean, and small doses of white pepper. This wine clings to the back of the throat for a nice long while.

As with the Riesling the finish is the single most impressive aspect of this Grüner Veltliner. Hints of sweetness are balanced by excellent acidity keeping everything in check. This is a very well made Grüner Veltliner and a terrific selection to pair with food. This wine will also age gracefully over the next 7-10 years.

Both of these wines from Johann Donabaum are excellent expressions of the respective varietal and fine examples of the serious and well crafted Austrian offerings that are hitting our shores these days. Both of these wines are worth making a special effort to seek out.

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Michael David - 2007 6th Sense Syrah

For quite a number of years I’ve been fond of the Michael David Wines. When I see their labels or think of their offerings I’m reminded of wines that tend to be big, bold and widely available. The price points for the wines also tend to be reasonable. Today I’m going to look at their current release of Syrah. The Michael David 2007 6th Sense Syrah was produced using Lodi fruit. In addition to Syrah, some Petite Sirah is also blended in. Barrel aging was accomplished over 20 months in French oak. The suggested retail price for this selection is $16.

The 2007 vintage of 6th Sense Syrah opens with Black Mission Fig aromas, along with hints of leather, and wisps of vanilla. The palate is loaded with plum, blueberry, and a host of other dark, fleshy fruit notes. Chocolate, espresso, and burnt sugar characteristics mark the smooth, lingering finish of this Syrah. This wine has soft tannins and sufficient acidity.

This wine has been consistent from vintage to vintage. If anything I found the 2007 to be ever so slightly more restrained than recent vintages. It has better balance and a bit more structure to boot. Overall though, if you have liked this in the past you’re more than likely going to enjoy it now. If you’ve never had 6th Sense Syrah, it’s modest price point and wide availability make it a safe bet to reach for the next time you’re hosting or attending an event with wine lovers of all stripes. This wine is both a good value and an excellent example of Lodi fruit.

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Bodega Septima - 2007 Gran Reserva

Single varietal wines are probably the ones most American consumers have historically identified with and looked for. There now seems to be a growing segment in the US that realizes the power of blended wines. As we mature as a wine consuming culture in the US there are more and more folks that are comfortable straying outside of their safe zone and experimenting. Blended wines, whether classic Bordeaux style blends or otherwise can offer many positives. Of course at their best the goal is to achieve the best possible wine using the highest quality fruit a producer has available. In addition to that sometimes its as simple as some Merlot being blended in to a Cabernet for additional complexity. In any case while the single varietal expressions have their place too, blended wines are their own unique discipline. Today I'll look at one from  Bodega Septima. The Bodega Septima 2007 Gran Reserva was produced using fruit sourced in several distinct parts of Mendoza. This wine is a blend of Malbec (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), and Tannat (10%). Each varietal was barrel aged separately in a combination of French and American oak. After 12 months in barrel the final blend was assembled prior to this offering being bottled. The suggested retail price for this wine is $25.

When this 2007 blend is poured, the deep purple hue is striking. Blackberry, blueberry and vanilla aromas waft enticingly from the nose of this wine. The palate is loaded with intense layers of fruit flavor. These are joined by spice and chocolate notes that coat the tongue and back of the throat with flavor and good intensity. Espresso, earth and mineral reference points make up the lengthy finish. This wine has firm tannins and good acid structure. In it's powerful youth this wine will work best paired with hearty, full flavored dishes that can match its intensity.

What I like best about this wine is the balance on display between the Malbec and the Cabernet Sauvignon. The lusty fruit of the Malbec shines through, along with the depth of flavor and structure that the Cabernet provides. The softer and lighter bodied Tannat acts as a bridge, bringing it all together. While this wine is delicious now, particularly after a solid decanting, it will undoubtedly improve for the next 5-6 years and drink well for several after that. A nice wine and a very good value.

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Bodega Septima - 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon

When it comes to South American wine Cabernet Sauvignon was the first varietal I started drinking. It was my realization back then that there was great value in the Cab category that started me on tasting wines from both Chile and Argentina. Perhaps because it was the first thing from there I started that I still get excited when I find a solid Cabernet Sauvignon value from South America. Over the last few months I’ve had the chance to taste a number of wines from Bodega Septima. During the next couple of days I’m going to report on a few recent examples I’ve really liked. Today I’m going to look at their current release of Cabernet Sauvignon. The Bodega Septima 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon was made using fruit sourced in Luján de Cuyo, south of Mendoza. This selection was producing 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel aging was accomplished over six months in American oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is $11.99.

Dark berry, thyme, toast and vanilla bean aromas fill the nose of this 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. Sweet berry fruit notes lead the palate. Pie crust flavors emerge around the mid-palate making Blackberry pie the predominate reference point. Black pepper and hints of smoke lead the finish followed by earth and chicory. This wine has soft tannins and solid acidity. The Bodega Septima is an excellent choice to pair with burgers or pasta in red sauce.

This 2007 Cabernet from Bodega Septima hits the marks I look for in this category. For $12 or less you get a wine that has solid varietal character as well as sufficient complexity. It’s meant for short term drinking but should hold its charms for the next couple of years. This is a good value.

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Haber Family Vineyards - 2006 Diamond Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon

There are winemakers out there who work on numerous projects throughout the year on a consulting basis. Some like Napa Valley’s Bob Pepi consult in several countries as well as work on their own projects. Another California based one who hit my radar over the last few years is Tim Milos. Various wines he was involved with impressed me, but it was Tim’s work with Rubissow that really knocked my socks off. So when I became aware of Haber Family Vineyards, his involvement was one of the reasons I was interested in checking out their wine. They’re a mountain Winery like Rubissow and it takes a particular talent in my opinion to get the best out of mountain fruit. New wineries and small family owned producers are of particular interest to me as well and Haber Family Vineyards, which was started in 2004, fits both bills. While their winery sits on Howell Mountain they also produce a wine from Diamond Mountain. Today I’ll look at that wine. The Haber Family Vineyards 2006 Diamond Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon is their inaugural release. This offering is composed entirely of Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel aging was accomplished over a period of 20 months in French oak; 85% of the barrels were new. A mere 380 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $80.

This 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon has a beautiful dark hue that presents strikingly when poured. Deep, dark, brooding, berry notes lead the nose. Subtle eucalyptus, cedar and vanilla aromas also play a role. The palate is generously flavored and loaded with layer after layer of well proportioned and even keeled, but relentless and intense fruit flavors. Plum, cherry and blackberry are the most prominent. A host of spice notes are present as well.  These flavors give way to chocolate covered blackberry and an avalanche of earth that form the core of this wines tremendous finish. This Cabernet has good structure and firm tannins; excellent acidity provides the framework.

If you’re going to drink this wine over the next couple of years, decanting it is highly recommended to get the most out of it. If you have the patience to lay it down, this Mountain Cab will evolve beautifully over the next decade or so. I went back to this Cabernet after it had been open for 24 hours and again when it had been open for 48 hours. In both cases the wine had continued to evolve positively. It might have even been at its best after 48 hours. In any case it was consistently impressive

The lengthy finish and depth of flavor in the palate are both noteworthy. When you take into account that this wine is the first release it’s exciting to consider what Haber Family Vineyards will unleash going forward. It’s also clear that Tim Milos is amongst the folks who have the ability to get at the core of mountain fruit and let it show off its purity and power. This is an excellent wine, well worth its price tag.  

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Sandeman - 20 Year Tawny Port

Tawny Port is amongst the categories of dessert wines that I reach for most often. When they’re done right, the combination of flavor and quality in an often very reasonable price point is hard to resist. Throw in the general availability of a great number of standard bearer Tawny Ports and it's easy to see why a lot of folks look towards them for their after dinner wine needs. All Tawny Ports aren’t created equally of course so I find sampling them a fascinating exercise. Today I’m going to look at an example from long time Port House Sandeman. The Sandeman 20 Year of Tawny Port was aged in wooden casks. As the name indicates the average age of the wines blended is at least 20 years. The suggested retail price for this Port is $51.99

Fruitcake spice and stone fruit aromas lead the nose of this 20 Year Tawny Port. Apricot and yellow cling peach flavors are apparent on the palate along with honey and various nut characteristics. The finish of this wine is long and lingering with tea notes leading the charge; they’re joined by vanilla and continuing spice. This Sandeman Port is delicious on its own and many may consider this to be dessert in and of itself. I sampled it that way and personally I most often drink Tawny Port on its own. However I tasted it with sweet cranberry-walnut bread topped with a triple crème cheese and found that to be an outstanding match as well.

Two things stood out to me most about this Port. First is the mid-palate of the wine which is simultaneously rich and layered with flavors but yet gentle and even keeled. The finish is also impressive in length. Just when you think it’s going to end, the flavors linger a bit longer. This Sandeman Tawny Port is an excellent entry in the 20 Year category. In its class it offers excellent quality and solid value.

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Simonsig Family Vineyards - 2005 Pinitage

Every wine region has its signature grape varietal, some like South Africa have a couple. For white wine its Chenin Blanc and when it comes to reds it's Pinotage. The varietal was created about 85 years ago when Cinsault and Pinot Noir were crossed. And while there are other reds that do well in South Africa, Pinotage is the varietal that sets them apart from the pack. Today I'll look at one from Simonsig Family Vineyards. The Simonsig 2005 Pinotage was made from fruit sourced in the Stellenbosch region of South Africa. This offering is 100% Pinotage. Approximately 5,000 cases of this selection are produced each vintage. The suggested retail price for this wine is $14.99.

An extroverted nose, loaded with cherries, mulled spices and cedar leads this 2005 Pinotage. Taking the first sip, fleshy fruit flavors emerge. Both black and blue flavors star with blueberry, blackberry and cherry leading the way. Kirsch liqueur flavors emerge mid-palate and continue through to the finish which features flourishes of burnt sugar and a host of continuing spice notes such as black pepper, cinnamon and cloves. These give way to a savory component that's joined by a nice closing wallop of sour berry. This wine has good structure and solid acidity.

Both Pinot Noir and Cinsault are generally speaking excellent food wines when they're made well. It's no surprise then that a well made and balanced Pinotage would also be a terrific food wine. This Pinotage is both of those things. It'll pair well with many foods but a hearty and spicy beef based chili would be an inspired pairing. This wine is delicious now but don't hesitate to hold onto it for several years. The tannins will soften a bit and make this an even more appealing selection. For under $15 this is a very solid value packed with flavor.

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