Gabe's View


Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

Bodega Septima - 2007 Gran Reserva

Single varietal wines are probably the ones most American consumers have historically identified with and looked for. There now seems to be a growing segment in the US that realizes the power of blended wines. As we mature as a wine consuming culture in the US there are more and more folks that are comfortable straying outside of their safe zone and experimenting. Blended wines, whether classic Bordeaux style blends or otherwise can offer many positives. Of course at their best the goal is to achieve the best possible wine using the highest quality fruit a producer has available. In addition to that sometimes its as simple as some Merlot being blended in to a Cabernet for additional complexity. In any case while the single varietal expressions have their place too, blended wines are their own unique discipline. Today I'll look at one from  Bodega Septima. The Bodega Septima 2007 Gran Reserva was produced using fruit sourced in several distinct parts of Mendoza. This wine is a blend of Malbec (50%), Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), and Tannat (10%). Each varietal was barrel aged separately in a combination of French and American oak. After 12 months in barrel the final blend was assembled prior to this offering being bottled. The suggested retail price for this wine is $25.

When this 2007 blend is poured, the deep purple hue is striking. Blackberry, blueberry and vanilla aromas waft enticingly from the nose of this wine. The palate is loaded with intense layers of fruit flavor. These are joined by spice and chocolate notes that coat the tongue and back of the throat with flavor and good intensity. Espresso, earth and mineral reference points make up the lengthy finish. This wine has firm tannins and good acid structure. In it's powerful youth this wine will work best paired with hearty, full flavored dishes that can match its intensity.

What I like best about this wine is the balance on display between the Malbec and the Cabernet Sauvignon. The lusty fruit of the Malbec shines through, along with the depth of flavor and structure that the Cabernet provides. The softer and lighter bodied Tannat acts as a bridge, bringing it all together. While this wine is delicious now, particularly after a solid decanting, it will undoubtedly improve for the next 5-6 years and drink well for several after that. A nice wine and a very good value.

Please take a moment to vote for my blog.

Bodega Septima - 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon

When it comes to South American wine Cabernet Sauvignon was the first varietal I started drinking. It was my realization back then that there was great value in the Cab category that started me on tasting wines from both Chile and Argentina. Perhaps because it was the first thing from there I started that I still get excited when I find a solid Cabernet Sauvignon value from South America. Over the last few months I’ve had the chance to taste a number of wines from Bodega Septima. During the next couple of days I’m going to report on a few recent examples I’ve really liked. Today I’m going to look at their current release of Cabernet Sauvignon. The Bodega Septima 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon was made using fruit sourced in Luján de Cuyo, south of Mendoza. This selection was producing 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel aging was accomplished over six months in American oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is $11.99.

Dark berry, thyme, toast and vanilla bean aromas fill the nose of this 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. Sweet berry fruit notes lead the palate. Pie crust flavors emerge around the mid-palate making Blackberry pie the predominate reference point. Black pepper and hints of smoke lead the finish followed by earth and chicory. This wine has soft tannins and solid acidity. The Bodega Septima is an excellent choice to pair with burgers or pasta in red sauce.

This 2007 Cabernet from Bodega Septima hits the marks I look for in this category. For $12 or less you get a wine that has solid varietal character as well as sufficient complexity. It’s meant for short term drinking but should hold its charms for the next couple of years. This is a good value.

Please take a moment to vote for my blog.

Haber Family Vineyards - 2006 Diamond Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon

There are winemakers out there who work on numerous projects throughout the year on a consulting basis. Some like Napa Valley’s Bob Pepi consult in several countries as well as work on their own projects. Another California based one who hit my radar over the last few years is Tim Milos. Various wines he was involved with impressed me, but it was Tim’s work with Rubissow that really knocked my socks off. So when I became aware of Haber Family Vineyards, his involvement was one of the reasons I was interested in checking out their wine. They’re a mountain Winery like Rubissow and it takes a particular talent in my opinion to get the best out of mountain fruit. New wineries and small family owned producers are of particular interest to me as well and Haber Family Vineyards, which was started in 2004, fits both bills. While their winery sits on Howell Mountain they also produce a wine from Diamond Mountain. Today I’ll look at that wine. The Haber Family Vineyards 2006 Diamond Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon is their inaugural release. This offering is composed entirely of Cabernet Sauvignon. Barrel aging was accomplished over a period of 20 months in French oak; 85% of the barrels were new. A mere 380 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $80.

This 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon has a beautiful dark hue that presents strikingly when poured. Deep, dark, brooding, berry notes lead the nose. Subtle eucalyptus, cedar and vanilla aromas also play a role. The palate is generously flavored and loaded with layer after layer of well proportioned and even keeled, but relentless and intense fruit flavors. Plum, cherry and blackberry are the most prominent. A host of spice notes are present as well.  These flavors give way to chocolate covered blackberry and an avalanche of earth that form the core of this wines tremendous finish. This Cabernet has good structure and firm tannins; excellent acidity provides the framework.

If you’re going to drink this wine over the next couple of years, decanting it is highly recommended to get the most out of it. If you have the patience to lay it down, this Mountain Cab will evolve beautifully over the next decade or so. I went back to this Cabernet after it had been open for 24 hours and again when it had been open for 48 hours. In both cases the wine had continued to evolve positively. It might have even been at its best after 48 hours. In any case it was consistently impressive

The lengthy finish and depth of flavor in the palate are both noteworthy. When you take into account that this wine is the first release it’s exciting to consider what Haber Family Vineyards will unleash going forward. It’s also clear that Tim Milos is amongst the folks who have the ability to get at the core of mountain fruit and let it show off its purity and power. This is an excellent wine, well worth its price tag.  

Please take a moment to vote for my blog.

Sandeman - 20 Year Tawny Port

Tawny Port is amongst the categories of dessert wines that I reach for most often. When they’re done right, the combination of flavor and quality in an often very reasonable price point is hard to resist. Throw in the general availability of a great number of standard bearer Tawny Ports and it's easy to see why a lot of folks look towards them for their after dinner wine needs. All Tawny Ports aren’t created equally of course so I find sampling them a fascinating exercise. Today I’m going to look at an example from long time Port House Sandeman. The Sandeman 20 Year of Tawny Port was aged in wooden casks. As the name indicates the average age of the wines blended is at least 20 years. The suggested retail price for this Port is $51.99

Fruitcake spice and stone fruit aromas lead the nose of this 20 Year Tawny Port. Apricot and yellow cling peach flavors are apparent on the palate along with honey and various nut characteristics. The finish of this wine is long and lingering with tea notes leading the charge; they’re joined by vanilla and continuing spice. This Sandeman Port is delicious on its own and many may consider this to be dessert in and of itself. I sampled it that way and personally I most often drink Tawny Port on its own. However I tasted it with sweet cranberry-walnut bread topped with a triple crème cheese and found that to be an outstanding match as well.

Two things stood out to me most about this Port. First is the mid-palate of the wine which is simultaneously rich and layered with flavors but yet gentle and even keeled. The finish is also impressive in length. Just when you think it’s going to end, the flavors linger a bit longer. This Sandeman Tawny Port is an excellent entry in the 20 Year category. In its class it offers excellent quality and solid value.

Please take a moment to vote for my blog.

Simonsig Family Vineyards - 2005 Pinitage

Every wine region has its signature grape varietal, some like South Africa have a couple. For white wine its Chenin Blanc and when it comes to reds it's Pinotage. The varietal was created about 85 years ago when Cinsault and Pinot Noir were crossed. And while there are other reds that do well in South Africa, Pinotage is the varietal that sets them apart from the pack. Today I'll look at one from Simonsig Family Vineyards. The Simonsig 2005 Pinotage was made from fruit sourced in the Stellenbosch region of South Africa. This offering is 100% Pinotage. Approximately 5,000 cases of this selection are produced each vintage. The suggested retail price for this wine is $14.99.

An extroverted nose, loaded with cherries, mulled spices and cedar leads this 2005 Pinotage. Taking the first sip, fleshy fruit flavors emerge. Both black and blue flavors star with blueberry, blackberry and cherry leading the way. Kirsch liqueur flavors emerge mid-palate and continue through to the finish which features flourishes of burnt sugar and a host of continuing spice notes such as black pepper, cinnamon and cloves. These give way to a savory component that's joined by a nice closing wallop of sour berry. This wine has good structure and solid acidity.

Both Pinot Noir and Cinsault are generally speaking excellent food wines when they're made well. It's no surprise then that a well made and balanced Pinotage would also be a terrific food wine. This Pinotage is both of those things. It'll pair well with many foods but a hearty and spicy beef based chili would be an inspired pairing. This wine is delicious now but don't hesitate to hold onto it for several years. The tannins will soften a bit and make this an even more appealing selection. For under $15 this is a very solid value packed with flavor.

Please take a moment to vote for my blog.

2010 New York Wine Expo Is Around The Corner

The 3rd annual NY Wine Expo is coming next month. I've attended the first two and found it to be a large scale wine event worth attending for wine lovers. Read my review of the 2009 edition here, and 2008 here. Readers of this site can save $10 on either Friday or Saturday tickets by using the code: GABESVIEW. Specific event details follow:

 

The 3rd Annual New York Wine Expo is February 26 through 28 at the Jacob Javits Center. In all, the Grand Tasting offers attendees a chance to sample more than 600 wines from over 170 winemakers from around the globe. Seminar presenters include Gloria Maroti Frazee, who oversees Wine Spectator School, and Leslie Sbrocco an award-winning author, and Founder of “Thirsty Girl” a brand new multi-media company focused on wine, food and travel.

New York Wine Expo Hours Friday, February 26, 6:00 – 10:00 PM; $75, prior to Feb. 19 Saturday, February 27, 2:00 – 6:00 PM   $85, prior to Feb. 19 (Sunday is for trade professionals only)   Go to www.NewYorkWineExpo.com for tickets and additional information or call 800-544-1660.

Urraca - 2007 Familia Langley Reserva

It was just about a year ago that I first tasted the offerings from Argentine producer Urraca Wines. Since then I’ve gone back to them several times and been impressed each time with their overall portfolio. Their wines hit a different segment of the Argentine wine imports than most. Within the vast number of wines from Argentina, the majority on US shelves are value based. Some of those values are outstanding and provide quality and some are generic. What Urraca does from the get go is to aim higher. They start at a premium level and then also make super-premium offerings. So while the least expensive wine you’re going to find from them is in the mid to high teens, there is value to be had. Today I’m going to look at the current release of their flagship wine. This wine is certainly within the super-premium category. The question is does it still deliver value, or even a bargain, in its price point.

The Urraca 2007 Familia Langley Reserva is made using fruit from the Mendoza region of Argentina. The proprietary blend is composed of Cabernet Sauvignon (40%), Malbec (30%), and Merlot (30%). Barrel aging was accomplished over 18 months in a combination of French and American oak. The suggested retail price for this wine is approximately $70.

A potpourri of dark berry aromas lead the exuberant nose of this 2007 blend. Blackberry and cherry (both red and black) intermingle along with lots of white pepper and hints of nutmeg throughout the palate of this selection. This wine has serious length. The impressive finish is marked my minerals, earth, black pepper and a hints of charcoal. This wine has firm tannins that soften in the glass. Excellent acidity provides the framework and keeps everything in check.

There are three things which I find equally impressive about this wine. First and quite importantly is its consistency. I was blown away by the 2005 version of this wine and was quite curious to see how the 2007 edition would stack up. Nothing to worry about there, the 2007 is every bit as impressive. The second thing that struck me is the tremendous level of even-keeled intensity that this wine displays from the first sip through the long finish. There are a lot of wines that hit you up front with big fruit and then the flavor drops as if it fell from a cliff. While this wine has little peaks and valleys, it manages to maintain a notable level of complex, layered and concentrated flavors throughout. The third thing that impresses me is the finish on the Familia Langley, which is noteworthy in length.

If you’re going to drink this wine in the short term, decanting for an hour or two is strongly recommended. However if you’re patient and can lay it down for a few years, you will be rewarded by a wine that will show plenty of positive evolution. Yes this wine is $70, and yes for that money it’s still, very much, an excellent value. It compares favorably to many blends from a number of regions of the world that hit the triple digit price point.

Please take a moment to vote for my blog.

Cinnabar Winery - 2007 Paso Robles Merlot

Merlot is easily one of the most maligned varietals of the last decade. The film Sideways did little to help its cause. But in my opinion what hurt Merlot’s reputation more was the sea of insipid examples out there. For every excellent Merlot there’s one that’s sweet, flabby and worst of all innocuous. There’s nothing more discouraging than drinking a wine and being unable to distinguish what varietal it is. Thankfully though, along with the solid examples that have always been out there, the tide seems to have shifted a bit. More and more of the Merlot’s I’ve tasted, in a wide array of price categories, from all over the world, actually taste like what they are. Today I’ll look at an example from Cinnabar Winery. The Cinnabar Winery 2007 Merlot I made from fruit sourced in two sections of Paso Robles. 95% of the wine is Merlot with 5% Petit Verdot blended in as well. Barrel aging was accomplished over 16 months in a combination of American and Hungarian oak; 15% were new. The suggested retail price for this wine is $21.

Dark fruit aromas with an undercurrent of jam fill the inviting nose of this Paso Robles Merlot. Blackberry pie, cherry and plum pudding spice notes are the most prominent parts of the full flavored palate. Chocolate notes as well as hints of graham cracker emerge on the finish which has yielding tannins, good length and a velvety mouth feel. Solid acidity keeps everything in check.

I like this Merlot a lot for a couple of reasons. Most importantly it’s true to the varietal. Secondly it’s a fine example of Paso Robles wine. The combination of fruit from two distinct areas in Paso helps keeps things balanced and provides for a style that shows both the big fruit that Paso is known for as well as the proportion that can be achieved. A nice value.

Please take a moment to vote for my blog.

A Vertical Tasting of Swanson Vineyards Salon Chardonnay, Vintages 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008

Once upon a time I was ready to give up on New World Chardonnay. More than anything though it was really California Chardonnay I’d grown weary of. So many of the wines I tasted were overburdened with oak to the point of blunting the fruit. The litany of jokes made in tasting rooms and elsewhere about these wines could easily fill a book. I’m not sure anyone is printing joke books these days. If they were though there’s lots of material. It got to the point where I found it tiresome to even try new Chardonnays. Many of them, were high scored, and well regarded, yet there was a seeming avalanche of sawdust in my mouth. So I drank mostly Chablis, when I had the chance, and when I felt adventurous I’d try one from California. Then one incredibly fateful day I made my first visit to Swanson Vineyards Salon in Napa Valley. While I liked the first wine they poured Rosato, I was dubious when then Salonnier Shawn Larue said the next wine was Chardonnay. I must have made a face because Shawn assured me that what I was about to taste was not a typical over oaked wine that was in fashion for many years. I thanked him for mentioning it but inside I thought “we’ll see about that.” From the first sip the Swanson Chardonnay was nothing short of a revelation. The fruit starred gloriously and there was complexity to spare. “That’s amazing,” were the first words I recall uttering after the very first sips I ever took of Swanson Chardonnay. More than anything it reminded me of a fine Chablis. I  Joined their wine club soon after in large part so I could have guaranteed access to the Chardonnay. It’s only made in small quantities and if there’s any left after the wine club gets their allotment you can get some through the Salon. I wasn’t taking that chance. I’ve come to love the Swanson portfolio of wines in general. The Chardonnay though, for my money, there isn’t a finer one in Napa Valley.

I was recently going through my cellar and realized I had four vintages of the Chardonnay on hand. It was obvious that the only thing to do was invite some friends over for a vertical tasting. What follows are some of my impressions about these wines and how they’re currently tasting.

The Swanson Chardonnay is available through the Salon in Rutherford. The suggested retail price for the current vintage (2008) is $36.

Swanson Vineyards 2005 Salon Chardonnay – This wine has changed remarkably in the time since it was released. Much of the fruit has dropped off at this point. The spice and mineral elements which were always present have pushed to the fore front. This now lean, mineral laden wine turned out to be the favorite of most during the vertical tasting. A nice showcase for the potential longevity of well made, balanced, white wines.

Swanson Vineyards 2006 Salon Chardonnay – This wine is definitely transitioning at this time. The spice component is present as are hints of minerals. However they’re not as prominent as on the 2005. There is more fruit present right now. I’ll be curious to see how it develops further over the next year and if it gets to the second life the 2005 is currently enjoying.

Swanson Vineyards 2007 Salon Chardonnay – Of the four vintages this is probably the one drinking at closest to its peak efficacy right now. It’s all about personal taste of course but the 2007 still now has all the glorious fruit this Chardonnay features in its youth. There’s plenty of complexity as well with spice, mineral notes and the great length this wine traditionally features. An excellent vintage of a very consistent wine in its peak drinking window.

Swanson Vineyards 2008 Salon Chardonnay – This is the current vintage of this wine, released this past August. Not surprisingly this vintage currently has the biggest fruit of the bunch. Gentle hints of butter are present along with the classic spice elements. Mineral notes are just starting to eek out of this wine and I suspect they’ll become much more prominent over time. While it’s delicious now, history tells me that to my taste I’m going to like this wine even more in about 5-6 months.

Vertical tastings can be fascinating and instructive. This one was no different. While everyone had their favorites, for a variety of reasons, there was some consensus. Regardless of how much the older vintages have evolved, the house style, we agreed was evident throughout. While age and of course vintage variation play a strong role, the consistent quality of the Swanson Salon Chardonnay from year to year was on display.

So the moral of the story here is two-fold. First of all if you like a varietal, don’t give up on it if you run across some examples you don’t like. You may eventually find one you love. The tide may also shift as it has with California Chardonnay. Of course the oak laden butter bombs are still out there. Thankfully though there are less then of them than before. The other part of the story? If you like excellent Chardonnay, that has fruit, complexity, and a good bit of longevity, do what you have to and get your hands on a bottle of Swanson Salon Chardonnay.

Please take a moment to vote for my blog.

Win 2 Tickets to ZAP !!!

ZAP, the organization devoted to Zinfandel is having its 19th Annual Festival in San Francisco this month. And as a reader of Gabe's View you have the chance to win two free tickets for the Grand Tasting on Saturday January 30th. All you have to do to enter is send me an e-mail and tell me what your favorite Zinfandel is. Use the "Contact Gabe" form at the top of the page to e-mail me. Make sure you include your e-mail address and name. The contest ends at 11:00 PM Eastern on Sunday January 24th, 2010. I'll randomly pick a name from all the entrants and get in touch with you to arrange the tickets the week of January 25th. Cost of the tickets is $59 per ticket for non ZAP members. Good Luck! If you want a second chance to win (a different set of tickets), you can enter at Drink Dry Creek too, using the "e-mail Gabe" form there. What follows is ZAP's press release about the event:

ZAP CELEBRATES 19TH ANNUAL ZAP FESTIVAL 2010 Zin in Paradise features celebrity chef Beverly Gannon

Rough & Ready CA, January 2010----The 19th Annual Zinfandel Advocates & Producers Festival takes place January 28-30, 2010, in San Francisco. The Festival will ‘headline’ Chef Beverly Gannon, one of the founders of ‘HAWAI`I regional cuisine.’ Chef Gannon is the proprietor of Maui’s world famous Hali`imaile General Store and possibly the most well-known chef in Hawaii. She will develop the “HAWAI`I regional cuisine” menu for Dinner With The Winemakers as well as prepare a signature Hawaiian dish for Good Eats & Zinfandel Pairing; she will also be visible throughout the three days of the Festival and her new cookbook, Home Style Meals at The Hali`imaile General Store, will be for sale. To order tickets call 877/772-2545; tickets can be purchased online at www.zinfandel.org.   “Meet” Chef Gannon in a series of Skyped-video chats now online on ZAP’s website. Bev explains the magic of Zinfandel from her perspective and gives you a few hints about the Festival.   Chef Gannon’s dinner menu for Evening With The Winemakers will consist of Asian Duck Tostada; Blackened Ahi With Sweet Thai Chili Sauce, Wasabi Micro Greens, Tobiko, Mashed Potato In Filo Cup; Smoked Salmon Pinwheels With Chipotle-Chili Fresh Fruit Salsa; Kalua Pork And Goat Cheese Won-Tons With Mango Chili Sauce; Terrine Of Foie Gras, BBQ Eel, Potato Pineapple Compote, Vanilla Syrup And Spicy Micro-Greens; Lamb Shank Cannelloni With A Poached Fig Demi-Glaze Double-Cut Lamb Chop, Lavender Honey Glazed Baby Carrots and Chocolate Macadamia Nut Tart (http://www.zinfandel.org/default.asp?cid=1&n1=14&n2=473#12607) and for Good Eats & Zinfandel Pairing, she’ll be preparing her Signature Crab Cannelloni with Saffron Cream Sauce and Joe's Favorite Meatloaf with Hawaiian Sweetbread Roll from the Hali’imaile General Store (more at http://www.zinfandel.org/default.asp?n1=14&n2=472&member=).   The ZAP Festival will include more than 200 Zinfandel-specialist wineries from all across California pouring their barrel samples and new releases for over 10,000 enthusiasts during three days at four separate events.  There will be silent auctions during three events - Good Eats & Zinfandel Pairing, The Grand Zinfandel Tasting, and Evening with the Winemakers; proceeds support ZAP’s Heritage Vineyard projects.   Good Eats & Zinfandel Pairing takes place on January 28, 6:00 – 9:00 p.m. at Fort Mason Center (Marina Blvd. at Buchanan, San Francisco 94123). Approximately 50 restaurants will pair with wineries. Tickets for non-ZAP members are $125; for ZAP members, $95. A list of the participants and matches can be found at http://www.zinfandel.org/default.asp?n1=14&n2=472&member=. Some tickets may be available at the door, but it is recommended to buy tickets in advance.    Chef Bev Gannon’s Crab Cannelloni with Saffron Cream Sauce, Chef Gannon’s Meatloaf With Hawaiian Sweetbread Roll, Filet Mignon Tartare, Curried Goat with Mango Chutney, Duck Strudel, Sweet Potato Timbale Filled With a Trio of Cheese, Wild Boar Sliders with Caramelized Red Onion Marmalade, Lamb Lollipops, “Great Balls of Fire” and more….Some of the Good Eats participants are Acorn Winery/Alegria Vineyards with Zin Restaurant & Bar; Alderbrook Winery; Artezin Wines with Knickerbockers’ Catering; B.R. Cohn Winery with Preferred Sonoma Caterers; Barefoot Cellars with Sonoma Cake Creations; Barefoot Cellars ‘2;’ Barnard Griffin Winery; Blaauwklippen Vineyards with Radio Africa Kitchen; D-Cubed Cellars; Deep Purple Winery; Dogwood Cellars; Dry Creek Vineyard with The Peasant & The Pear; Edmeades Winery; Four Vines Winery; Gnarly Head Cellars; Grgich Hills Estate; Guglielmo Winery; Hartford Family Winery; J. Rickards Winery & Vineyards; John Tyler; Klinker Brick Winery; Marr Cellars; Mounts Family Winery; Outpost Estate Wines with Mustard’s Grill; Murphy-Goode; Peachy Canyon Winery with Hali`imaile General Store; Peirano Estate Vineyards; R& B Cellars; Rancho Zabaco Winery; Ravenswood; Ridge Vineyards with Lark Creek Steak; Rockwall Wine Company with Angela’s Bistro; Rosenblum Cellars with Miss Pearl’s Jam House; Saddleback Cellars; Sausal Winery with EOS Restaurant & Wine Bar; Scott Harvey Wines; Sextant Wines; St. Amant Winey with A Chef For You; St. Francis Winery & Vineyard; Terra d’Oro-Trinchero Family Estates with Taste; Three Wine Company with Hali`imaile General Store; Tin Barn Vineyards; Van Ruiten Family Winery; Z-52.   Flights: A Showcase of Zinfandels, a seated tasting with in-depth seminars focusing on limited-production Zinfandels, takes place on January 29 from 10:30 a.m. until 1:00 p.m., at The InterContinental Mark Hopkins Hotel’s Peacock Court (1 Nob Hill, San Francisco, 94108, 415/392-3434). Topics will include the role of blending in the world of Zinfandel. Tickets for non-ZAP members are $80; for ZAP members, $65. Tickets are available only in advance and not at the door. Flights will focus on the history and heritage of Zinfandel, also delving into the latest Zinfandel trends and the timely topic on the art of blending. Five top Zinfandel winemakers will each present a quintessential Zinfandel: Eric Baugher (Ridge Vineyards), Matt Cline (Three Wine Company), Jeff Cohn (JC Cellars), Steve Hall (Robert Biale Vineyards) and Morgan Peterson (Bedrock Wine Company). Each panelist will also feature a proprietary Zinfandel-based red wine, blending other grapes with California’s heritage wine, to produce wine styles with flavors from casual to sophisticated. A buffet lunch will follow the tasting.

Evening With The Winemakers: A Benefit Live Auction & Dinner, takes place on January 29 beginning with a reception-tasting at 5:00 p.m., at the InterContinental Mark Hopkins Hotel in San Francisco (1 Nob Hill, San Francisco 94108, 415/392-3434). Tickets are $260 for non-members and $210 for ZAP members, available only in advance and not at the door. Participating wineries are Alderbrook Winery, Artezin Wines, Cakebread Cellars, Charter Oak Winery, D-Cubed Cellars, Dogwood Cellars, Edmeades Winery, Four Vines Winery, JR Wines, Mazzocco Winery, Peachy Canyon Winery, Ravenswood, Ridge Vineyards, Robert Biale Vineyards, Rosenblum Cellars, Saddleback Cellars, St. Francis Winery, Starry Night Winery, Terra d’Oro-Trinchero Family Estates and Three Wine Company. Continuing updates are at http://www.zinfandel.org/default.asp?n1=14&n2=473&member= The reception will include the opportunity to taste, for the first time, the 2008 Heritage Vineyard Zinfandel (made from ZAP’s experimental vineyard by Tom Mackey of St. Francis Vineyards & Winery). Guests will then enjoy a feast prepared by ZAP’s celebrity chef, Beverly Gannon; guests are seated with a winemaker host at their table. Proceeds from the silent and live auctions benefit ZAP’s Heritage Projects, preserving the historical and viticultural significance of America’s heritage wine.  The 19th Annual Grand Zinfandel Tasting takes place on January 30 from 2:00 until 5:00 p.m. at the Festival and Herbst Pavilions at Fort Mason (Marina Blvd. at Buchanan, San Francisco 94123). Tickets for non-ZAP members are $59; for ZAP members, $49. Over 200 wineries will pour their wines; a list of participating wineries can be found at http://www.zinfandel.org/default.asp?n1=14&n2=474&member=. There will be a silent auction based at the Festival Pavilion from 10:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m., benefiting ZAP’s Heritage Projects. Participating wineries listed at http://www.zinfandel.org/default.asp?n1=14&n2=474&member=.   A ticket to all four events for a ZAP member is $419; for a non-member, $524. A VIP package (for 2) is available at $995—this consists of tickets to all events plus a number of additional benefits including a bottle of The Heritage Vineyard Zinfandel.   “The world of Zinfandel is full of surprises and out-of-the-box thinking,” says Rebecca Robinson, ZAP’s Executive Director. “Since Zinfandel lovers are always looking for new adventures, we anticipate that Chef Gannon’s headlining the Festival will energize wineries and attendees alike,” Ms. Robinson adds.   More about Ms. Gannon: bevgannonrestaurants.com.   Continuing updates on events as well as ticket purchasing at www.zinfandel.org.   Visit zinfandel.org, zinworld.org to join in the enormous online world of Zinfandel lore and socializing or join that conversation at Twitter (http://twitter.com/ZinfandelOrg), Facebook (Facebook/ZAP-Zinfandel.   The Association of Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (ZAP) is a non-profit, educational 501(c)(3) organization. ZAP is dedicated to advancing public knowledge of and appreciation for American Zinfandel and its unique place in our culture and history. Winegrowers, winemakers and wine enthusiasts combine to form the membership. The common focus is the preservation and recognition of Zinfandel as America’s heritage wine. ZAP’s membership includes approximately 300 winery-members, 6,000 advocate-members and 50 associate members.  

Veramonte - 2008 Ritual Pinot Noir

There’s something about Pinot Noir that can be downright inspirational when it’s made right. When the fruit is allowed to shine and enhanced rather than burdened by oak and its purely Pinot it can be quite magical. At least I know that’s how I feel about Pinot. While I rarely turn down the opportunity to sample one, my expectations are tempered with the knowledge that it takes a lot to impress my palate when it comes to this grape. Today I’m going to look at a brand new release from Veramonte in Chile. Their varietal wines, particularly the Sauvignon Blanc have been consistent values and Primus, their proprietary blend is often a category stand out. The Veramonte 2008 Ritual Pinot Noir is produced using fruit sourced in the Casablanca Valley of Chile. This selection is 100% Pinot Noir. Barrel aging occurred over 12 months in exclusively French oak; 40% of the barrels were new. Highly regarded winemaker Paul Hobbs was a consultant on this project. The suggested retail price for this wine is $17.99.

Ripe wild strawberry, cherry, and fleshy plum aromas waft enticingly from the nose of this South American Pinot Noir. These are joined by hints of rhubarb. Black cherry and strawberry flavors intermingle throughout the gentle but full flavored palate of this wine. A terrific spice component kicks in around mid-palate and continues through the finish which features hints of cocoa, light cherry cola, white pepper, mushroom and emerging earth notes. This wine has silky tannins, excellent acidity and terrific length. It drinks marvelously on its own and will also pair with a wide array of foods. Roast Pork Loin and Mushroom Risotto are the first to spring to mind.

As I mentioned I think good Pinot Noir can be tricky to find. That’s particularly true in the under $20 category. That said, Ritual from Veramonte is one of the best under $20 Pinot’s I’ve had in ages. The price says $17.99 but when you taste it you’ll find it compares favorably to many Pinots in the $30 price range. If you’re a Pinot Noir fan, this is worth making a special effort to seek out.

Please take a moment to vote for my blog.

Finca La Linda - 2007 Bonarda

Argentina has long been one of my favorite countries to look towards for wine. They’ve shown over time that there are a wide array of offerings being made in divergent styles and at many different price levels. Right around $10, which I think of as entry level, is where I jumped in when I was first drinking Argentine wines. To this day it’s a category that fascinates me. When I find a wine that speaks to me in that price range its very satisfying. Today I’ll look at an example from Finca La Linda. This offshoot of Luigi Bosca Winery produced a line of varietal wines.

The Finca La Linda 2007 Bonarda is produced using fruit sourced in the Maipu section of Mendoza. This offering is 100% Bonarda. Barrel aging was accomplished in American oak. This selection has a suggested retail price of $10.99.

Aromas of red plum are underscored by hints of smoked meat in the nose of this 2007 Bonarda. The palate is marked by fleshy red fruit notes alongside little reference points to apricot. Black olive, pomegranate, and dusty dark chocolate are all part of the finish. This wine has good balance and sufficient acidity. It drinks nicely on its own but really works best with food. A Corned Beef and Pastrami sandwich would be a perfect match; that said red meats in general are a safe bet. If meat isn't your thing, grab a loaf of crusty bread, and some hard cheese to pair alongside this tasty wine.

One of the things I really enjoy is introducing friends to varietals they’re unfamiliar with. There is lots of fun to be had in discovery. Bonarda falls into that unknown category for a lot of folks. While more examples are on our shelves then a decade ago it’s still far from a household name. For $10.99, less if you shop around this example from Finca La Linda is a nice place to start.

Please take a moment to vote for my blog.

Paul Dolan Vineyards - 2006 Deep Red

Over the last year or two I’ve had more and more wines from Mendocino County in California. And I have to say that I’m finding quite a few that I enjoy. So when the opportunity presents itself to taste one I haven’t had before I jump at the chance. Such was the case with this blend from Paul Dolan Vineyards. This Mendocino producer farms organically and biodynamically. Those two things also up the appeal for me. The 2006 Paul Dolan Vineyards Deep Red is made from 100% Estate fruit and entirely sourced at their Dark Horse Farms Vineyard. This offering is a blend of Syrah (56%), Petite Sirah (31%), and Grenache (12%). 770 cases of this vintage were produced and the suggested retail price is $45.

The color of this wine is immediately striking. Its hue is as black as night in the glass. Taking the first whiff dark fruit aromas such as plum and blueberry emerge and are immediately underscored by red fruit notes. The palate is layered with intense and intermingling fruit flavors. Both bright and dark flavors are prominent as the Syrah and Petite Sirah that dominate this blend tussle for control of your taste buds; black cherry, blackberry and raspberry are of particular note. Black pepper notes kick in mid-palate and lead to the finish which shows dark chocolate dipped raspberry, earth, minerals and espresso bean notes. That finish has very nice length. This wine is well balanced and has excellent acidity.

Despite alcohol clocking in at well over 15% this wine doesn’t drink hot in the least. I’m a sucker for Petite Sirah in general and the 31% in this offering makes it intense and brooding presence known. If you’re going to drink this wine over the next year or so I’d recommend decanting for at least an hour. If on the other hand you have patience, which I rarely do with Petite Sirah, feel free to cellar this for the next 5-8 years and watch it develop as the earthy characteristics take greater hold. This is a terrific wine.

Please take a moment to vote for my blog.

Cantina del Castello - 2008 Soave Classico DOC

One of my goals for 2010 is to taste a greater number of Italian wines. Hopefully that will also lead to a higher number of Italian wines of all types and price ranges being covered here at Gabe's View. That said it's fitting that the first post of the year is about a wine from Italy. The Soave region is known for its white wines. The primary varietal is Garganega. Within the overall Soave designation are three more specific types of Soave. Today I'll look at one with the Soave Classico label. Cantina del Castello 2008 Soave is made from fruit sourced in the Classico region. Vineyard sites for this wine sit 200 to 250 meters above sea level. This offering is a blend of Garganega (90%) and Trebbiano di Soave (10%). Fermentation was accomplished in stainless steel. Two months of bottle age occurred prior to release. Just under 8,500 cases of this vintage were produced and the suggested retail price is $19.50.

Orchard and citrus fruit aromas intermingle with a hint of chamomile in the expressive nose of this wine. Lemon ice notes, mango, and pineapple are all key components of the full flavored palate. The finish shows lemon creme, vanilla, white pepper and an overall oily note that clings to the back of the throat. This wine has excellent acidity and will be a terrific match for lighter foods. Creamy cheeses, salads, and appetizers in general are good bets.

What stood about to me about this Soave is the combination of easy drinkability and complexity. Tasting it over a period of a couple of hours this selection has numerous layers that sneak up as you contemplate this wine and let it wash over you. A lovely wine and a good starting point if you're looking to venture outside of Pinot Grigio.

Please take a moment to vote for my blog.

Cristom Vineyards - 2007 Estate Pinot Gris

A few months back I was impressed with a trio of Pinot Noirs I tasted from Cristom Vineyards in Willamette Valley. So I’ve been eager to see what else they’re doing. The most prevalent white varietal in that part of Oregon tends to be Pinot Gris. Today I’ll look at the current release Pinot Gris from Cristom Vineyards. The Cristom Vineyards 2007 Estate Pinot Gris is produced using fruit entirely sourced at their own 5 acre Emilia vineyard which was planted in 1993. This offering was fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks. 1,420 cases of this selection were produced and the suggested retail price is $16.

Lychee fruit and pineapple aromas lead the expressive and lively nose of this Pinot Gris.  Apricot, mango, orange blossom and temperate wisps of vanilla make up the full flavored and gentle palate of this wine. Ginger, nutmeg, cloves and hazelnut notes emerge on the lingering, honeyed finish. Mineral notes provide a final crisp characteristic.

When I travelled to Willamette Valley a couple of years ago I was on a mission to taste lots of tremendous Pinot Noir. That was the expected and achieved. What I didn’t consciously consider before my trip was the amount of world class Pinot Gris I would encounter. Since Pinot Noir gets all the press, the Gris is sort of the hidden treasure of Willamette Valley. After a few days I realized that there were a lot of excellent examples of Pinot Gris too. It became an altered mission. This 2007 selection from Cristom Vineyards is quite indicative of the lovely white wines I found there. It’s refreshing and beckons you back to the glass for more. For $16 if you don’t want to think about it much further you don’t have to. But if you do, this wine has good complexity and rewards sipping and contemplation.

Please take a moment to vote for my blog.

Been Doon So Long A Randall Grahm Vinthology

Every business, sport, and industry has game changers. These are folks who either set the bar at a new level in their vocation or innovate so many changes that they influence what comes after them. In the world of wine, Randall Grahm is such a person. Whether it’s his pioneering affection for Rhone varietals and the like long before others in CA truly embraced them or his decision to switch to screw caps earlier in the game than most, he’s been a game changer. And now he’s got a book. Been Doon So Long A Randall Grahm Vinthology is first and foremost an excellent and entertaining read. But it’s more than that too. I think it’s appropriate that the size and shape of the book most closely resembles a textbook. Because, the truth is that just about anyone reading Been Doon So Long is going to learn a lot; about Randall, about wine and probably about themselves too.

Whether it’s the detailed discussion of the evolution of Bonny Doon labels, Randall’s, poetry, song lyrics, His essay about Syrah or various other topics Been Doon So Long, is wildly entertaining. It’s unlikely that any other book will teach as much about the world of wine, especially as it relates to California as this one. You could read it straight through, but there’s no real need to do that. I went back and forth reading the things that appealed to me most in the order that struck me. Pretty quickly I realized I needed to read the whole thing. It’s hard to put down, but if you do it’s easy to pick back up and jump into again.

If you’re going to read a wine book, anytime soon, there’s no question this is the one. Anyone with even a passing interest in the history of California wine over the last couple of decades should read this. In fact this book should be part of the curriculum for anyone looking to get into the wine industry. In case it’s not clear, by now, I love this book. At the very least I guarantee it’ll put a big grin on your face.

Please take a moment to vote for my blog.

Bonny Doon Vineyard - 2005 Le Cigare Volant

Blended wines can be particularly interesting. This is especially true in the case of a wine like Bonny Doon Vineyard’s Le Cigare Volant. This wine which was first made in 1984 is produced vintage after vintage with a concept in mind. Randall Grahm works each year for a style and uses the lots of fruit and blend that he feels best achieve his goal. Today I’ll look at the current release. The Bonny Doon Vineyard 2005 Le Cigare Volant is made from fruit sourced at a variety of long-term growers. This vintage is a blend of Grenache (50%), Mourvèdre (24%), Syrah (22%), Carignane (3%), and Cinsault (1%). This wine is bottled unfiltered and finished in screw cap. 1,615 cases of the 2005 vintage were produced and the suggested retail price is $30.

A floral component, led by violets, fills the nose of Le Cigar Volant. That’s joined by earth, hints of vanilla, jasmine and red plum as well. Blueberry, dark plum and subtle but present blackberry are at the core of the lush, full flavored palate of this wine. Spice notes are prominent throughout, with nutmeg, star anise and cardamom of particular note. Savory notes kick in and lead the finish along with increasing spice and flourishes of sour cherry, and earth. The finish is generous in length and impressively layered with subtlety. Medium tannins and excellent acidity balance things out nicely. This wine will pair well with something as casual as a gyro or more complex as Coq au Vin.

Le Cigare Volant is the signature wine of Bonny Doon Vineyards. The label says California, but the flavors are Old World indeed. From the modest 13.5% alcohol, to the impeccable balance this wine is stylistically, spiritually, and by intent a nod to classic French wines of the Southern Rhone, more than modern Southern Rhone offerings.  I’ve had this wine more than any other Bonny Doon selections over the years. While it’s certainly been pretty consistent there are always variations. The 2005 is amongst the best versions. If you drink it over the next 3-5 years you’re going to want to decant it. An hour is fine, but two hours is even better. That time really allows this selection to open up and expose its charms, which are many. Sip after sip Le Cigare Volant demands you come back to the glass for more. Pretty soon the bottle is going to be gone and you’ll wish you decanted a couple. If you’re familiar with this wine, 2005 is a benchmark vintage that will age for the long haul. If somehow you’ve never had this classic California offering from Randall Grahm, this vintage is a great place to start. If I could only use one word to describe this wine, that word would be character. Le Cigare Volant 2005 is loaded with it.

Please take a moment to vote for my blog.

Bonny Doon Vineyard - 2008 Ca’ Del Solo Estate Vineyard Albariño

Bonny Doon Vineyard has been cranking out interesting wines for many years now. The blends are often idiosyncratic and unique. The varietal wines are also singular in style. A few years back Randall Grahm sold off the Big House wines that are ubiquitous on store shelves and he re-focused on smaller productions. Even in those Big House blends, that were made in large quantities, I was always impressed with how much character Randall achieved in a $10 bottle of wine. Over the next few days I’m going to take a look at a couple of his current Bonny Doon releases as well as his book. Today I’m going to take a peek at his 2008 Albariño The Bonny Doon 2008 Albariño is made from fruit sourced at the Ca’ Del Solo Estate Vineyard located in Monterey County. In addition to Albariño (75%), Loureiro (21%), and Treixadura (4%) are also blended in. This vineyard is bio-dynamically farmed. 2,500 cases of this wine were produced and the suggested retail price is $20.

White peach and lemon aromas fill the nose of this wine. Lemon zest, grapefruit, honeysuckle, apricot and peach are each part of the palate of this Albariño and they’re underscored by an herbal flourish. Light touches of granny smith apple and mineral notes emerge on the finish, which has nice length, and is marked by its clean, crisp nature. This wine has terrific acidity and will pair well with light dishes. I tasted it alongside some Manchego cheese and found it to be an excellent pairing.

What has impressed my about Randall’s wines over the years is the sense of place they exhibit and their overall singularity from wine to wine. This 2008 Albariño is no exception. I remember the first Albariño I had a number of years back and being taken by how distinct the varietal tasted. I’m thrilled to find that this wine is true in spirit to excellent Spanish Albariños. This wine does a fantastic job of combining that sense of place, varietal correctness and simply being a delicious and distinct wine, recognizable for what it should be; wonderful fruit flavors, tied to their place of origin.

Please take a moment to vote for my blog

Cameron Hughes - Lot 117, 2007 Santa Barbara County Grencache Blanc/Viognier

This year I’ve looked at several wines from négociant Cameron Hughes. For anyone unfamiliar with the term, a négociant works as follows. He or she purchases grapes or juice from other growers and sells them under his or her, own label. Cameron Hughes is a California based négociant. And while that is his base of operations, he sources lots of wine from numerous regions, the world over.  Most often a well regarded winery or grower might be selling a finished product which Cameron Hughes Wine bottles or packages. Sometimes they take separate sources and blend them to come up with a unique and perhaps better wine. The goal in each case is to offer a superior product for significantly less than it would cost if it had the original producer or growers name. I’ve been impressed with the across the board quality of the previous Cameron Hughes wines I’ve had. Today I’ll look at a white blend. Cameron Hughes Lot 117 is a 2007 with its origins in Santa Barbara County. This selection is a blend of Grenache Blanc (54%) and Viognier (46%). 300 cases of this offering were produced and the suggested retail price is $12.

Orange blossom, apricot, mango and vanilla aromas burst forth from the demonstrative nose of this Grenche Blanc/Viognier blend. White peach, honey notes and continued apricot are all part of the palate. Lighter almond and hazelnut characteristics are present as well. Chamomile tea leads the lingering finish. The very impressive close also shows loads of mineral and spice notes. This wine is perfectly dry with crisp acidity.

For $12 you won’t mind opening this wine casually and sipping it on its own or with a quick meal. That’s fine and good, but this is also a serious wine with lots of complexity and charm. It’ll pair beautifully with lighter foods. This is another terrific deal from Cameron Hughes.

Please take a moment to vote for my blog.

Marchesi de Frescobaldi - 2006 Nipozzano Chianti Rùfina DOCG Riserva

Sometimes a single word evokes a myriad of thoughts and images. In this case that word is Chianti. Most wine drinkers recognize this as an Italian wine. But depending on how deeply immersed in wine one is, not everyone also realizes that’s it’s a region in Italy. Just about everything in European wine is based on area of origination. That includes what grapes can go into local wines. In Chianti of course as with numerous other areas of Italy, Sangiovese is the predominant grape. Marchesi de Frescobaldi has been producing wine in Italy for thirty generations. Their range of offerings vary from entry level selections (such as Remole for $10) that are appropriate for everyday drinking to higher end Brunellos and the like suitable for aging, collecting and most importantly fine drinking. Today I’ll look at the current release of the Nipozzano Riserva, one of their most recognizable, affordable and widely available wines. The Marchesi de Frescobaldi Nipozzano Chianti Rùfina DOCG Riserva 2006 was produced using fruit sourced at their Castello di Nipozzano estate vineyard. In addition to Sangiovese (90%), this wine includes Malvasia Nera, Colorino, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in small quantities. Oak aging was accomplished over 24 months in Barrique. This wine also underwent 3 months of bottle aging prior to release. The suggested retail price for this wine is $22.99.

This 2006 Chianti has a striking deep red hue that leans ever so slightly towards purple. Cherry and leather aromas lead the nose along with floral elements. Cherry notes, both red and black continue their role as they are the focus of this wines palate. Dark plum notes are present as well. All of these flavors are underscored by a wave of gentle spice characteristics (vanilla, white pepper, nutmeg among others) that kick in around mid-palate and continue on to the long, lingering and pleasing finish. Sour cherry is a significant component on the finish along with a subtle hint of earth and Kalamata olive, as well as black pepper. This Chianti has firm but yielding tannins and crisp acidity. Wine is best when partnered with food. Italian wines tend to lean heavily in that direction. The Nipozzano Riserva 2006 is no exception. It’ll pair well with a wide array of foods. Strong cheeses, roasted meats or a dish of pasta with red sauce are a few obvious sure fire bets.

This wine is pretty accessible right out of the bottle. But I still highly recommend letting this Chianti breathe if you have the time. An hour in the decanter will prove to be a revelation. It allows this wine to fully open up and expose all its many charms. Delicious now, this wine will evolve over the next 7-8 years (at minimum) and drink well for several after that. For around $20 this is an affordable wine most can drink on a regular basis. The price is also reasonable enough to stash away a case for aging. You could check on a bottle every year or so, make your own notes and watch it age and evolve. This is a terrific way to learn about wine, and more importantly perhaps your own palate.

Please take a moment to vote for my blog.